Happy to help brother! Your my target audience, I’m just trying to get as many people into this hobby as possible by making info easily available. Thank you for the support & have a good one Nick!
I just ordered the recommended parts in this video for my Skyline R32 mini-z MA-020 chasis from RCmarti havnt even recieved me car yet... lawl super excited also ordered the light kit from plaza japan. Thanks for this video super helpful for a newb like myself!
Had my locked rear axle installed for some time so much better. I went ahead and installed a heap of shims and spacer for ride height and wheel stance along with some front camber knuckles and front one way now I have to get used to how the car handles all over again haha
nice! there you go, its all about the fine tuning & then getting used to the new adjustments lol. Ive noticed a lot of people neglect the stance for the smaller scale cars but it makes them look sooooo much better if you invest the time.
I have gyro on non drift cars which is great (when dialed in correctly) I very much agree with the statement drifting and gyro is a bad combination. It doesn't make sense at all to use gyro for the purpose of 'better' or 'easier' drifting. It makes the car wobble and in a way unpredictable as well. I never drove a mini z or even a proper drift RC but I know for sure gyro is not the way to go. This video confirmed my intuitive feeling going against the mainstream opinion that Gyro makes drifting smooth. I would have almost bought my first Mini Z and included the gyro for one of the first upgrades.
The MR-03 sadly is not a good drift car for 1 massive reason. The mini-z has barely any steering angle & that's a massive issue for RWD drifting, you need as much angle as possible (close to 90 degree) for these tiny cars to drift effectively. Mini-z AWD is able to drift since there is power on the front tires which helps immensely
@@BMR3 So I’ve heard, during the journey to find the right tools I needed. But when the price is right, you gotta grab something up. So luckily I had one person suggest tools, so I will be better equipped for my future whip.
Exactly, live & learn but you should still have some fun with the mr-03, it’s a cool chassis. Let me know if you have any questions in the future brother, I’m happy to help!
@@BMR3 You got that right. The car should be here any day now. I haven’t looked in the description box for an alternative way to reach you, which would be a good idea.
@@The_MAD_Qyuber I keep it like that for a reason 😸 honestly I don’t need more emails since I won’t see them & I don’t like to chat on Facebook (I’m a young dinosaur 🦖) But honestly the best way to contact me is to leave a comment on any video since I’ll receive a notification & im pretty good at responding to those. If I don’t respond in a timely manner, just leave a fresh comment (not a reply) & I’ll get double notifications. Plus the added benefit is others can come across out comment strings & find some gold nuggets.
Oo I was just starting to record footage on the handling with different types of differentials(including slow mo :D). The looping is something I've got recorded on camera. Ball diffs actually completely rid of this issue and is a good alternative for a locked one, especially if you also want to do grip racing. As usual though, really like the commentary, should try mixing it up with some drift footage too :P
Auranapse yeah I have some footage of the looping in my 030Evo review video. I can’t wait to install my solid rear axel today! It will really improve my 030, especially the looping. Haha thank you for saying you enjoy hearing me ramble! Maybe I will add more commentary to the videos moving forward. I was trying to have a more straightforward, streamlined, informative video with less of my commentary. Maybe I’ll go more in-depth on my opinions for a different series, or I could make longer videos but I’m not sure how that would go over. Lol I know what you mean about the drift footage! I want to put out more, but I feel self conscious of my drifting skills lol I’m not as good as you, that’s for sure! And Beavers videos are sooooo clean it makes me want to improve ALOT more before releasing drift videos. I also want to try something different for a future drift video. I want to use a background song I like & try to do some cool edits like slo mo to reverse slo mo depending on the beat pattern, possibly with effects layed over. Only issue is I would surly be copyright striked so I want to carefully pick my song. I’m thinking something by Mac Dre or Andre Nickatina, I want a hyphy beat and turn my counter into a sideshow LOL! I have a bunch of bodies that just came in, so I really could make it a sideshow lol
@@BMR3 that would be cool :D I really like seeing drift montages, the one by the Mini Z Drift Club especially. Also, with multiple video cuts or takes you could probably get footage you'd like if you aren't satisfied. And through multiple takes you'd eventually get more consistent and better at drifting :P
@@BMR3 love mac dre and nickatina! I remember getting a call the night dre got shot from my friend out in the bay only time ive heard him cry. Sleep with the angels mac dre ✌
Depends on how much contact area you want. I would suggest starting with 4 narrow and go from there. I run narrow tires on my AWD & wide for my RWD drifters. How this helps!
I got the rear axle and front one way from Kenon hobby, I try to order as many parts with them as possible. I will link them below, I just checked and they are in stock. Or do you mean something else? www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-AWD-Rigid-Axle-_p_44841.html www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-MA010-Front-Oneway-Unit_p_41357.html
For the broke boys out there: You should start feeling for the drift and sort of learn when the car loops around, before the car loops you want to countersteer and it cancels out the loop. Alsoalso if you’re on the default diffs you should learn throttle control more than anything else.
Boom I understand where your coming from, this Friday’s video should be right up your ally man! I decided to cover Friday’s topic after talking with you. I hope you enjoy! It’s a simple video, but I hope it will help those who don’t want to spend extra cash on their car.
@@mosescheng5827 nice, if you haven’t already look into DS Racing tires (I like LF5). Tuning the tires and springs will make a world of difference. Good luck with your build bro!
Thank you for your advice! I will definitely look into that. So far, this is the only channel which provides clear details and reasons of what parts to buy and to not buy. Keep up the good work!
I am experiencing some of the problems that you have described in this video where when I release the throttle the back tires lock up and the car comes around. Similar to what a front one way differential would do but I do not have one installed. This forces me to have to stay in the throttle which increases speeds and doesn't allow for the drifting style that I would like. I'm using a all-wheel drive chassis and a brushed motor with solid rear axle and open front differential. I have not installed a front one way because I already get plenty of this e-brake effect. In fact too much. I noticed in your video your axle spins freely when you have it off the car in your hand. When you put the axle back on the vehicle does it still spin freely like this when it is attached to your motor? I think you have a brushless motor and I'm wondering if my problem could be the drag from my brushed motor in combination with drift tires on a slick surface equaling more drag from the motor then the drag caused by the tires on the surface which would normally allow the tires to keep rotating when the throttle is released causing the tires to lock up when not under power. Do your rear wheels keep rotating when you release the throttle with your brushless motor? It's almost like a one-way differential in the rear would be ideal to stop this e-brake effect making the car come around. Sorry for the long drawn out message here but I'm trying to explain my situation and see if you have any ideas of what could help me stop this e-brake effect when I release the throttle. Thank you for your time and providing excellent videos with so much information.
not gonna lie ive been binge watchin all this content im obsessed rn lol i bought the grey hellcat MA-020, and i went ahead and went all in and bought the one way and axle also lmaoo do you recommend driving stock at all first? or just slappin the parts in? i was big into Xmods back in the day this will be my first mini z super excited to get into rc again
If you were into Xmods then Mini-z is right up your ally! I would recommend driving it stock to get a feel for it (and make sure its running well out of the box) then once you know the chassis is good & how it should feel, then you can start swapping parts. Or you can dive in head first & install upgrade parts, but you might have random issues that are easier to diagnose on a bone stock car. Either way these things aren't rocket since so you can trouble shoot any issues that arise. Let me know if you have any questions & good luck with your build brother! hope to see you around the community, consider joining the Facebook Mini-z groups.
I love your videos about the mini z AWD modifications. I'm almost 99% sure that in some of your videos you have shown how to deal with the CS mod. Am I right? Where I can find it?
Thank you for the support brother! I never went over the CS mod since the DIY version doesn’t work as well as say the M Racing CS gear set & solid axle. Only issue is those are discontinued & extremely rare. But if you want to do the CS mod yourself, check out Garage RC. He has a video covering the diy CS mod
I have this set up coming.. you think that stock 8kv motor too much for drifting ? I'm looking to get that blue one that's 5kv should get ? Or theres other types of motors that drops into this thats better ? Thanks
jdmasfuck The stock motor is a lot, I find myself bearly touching the throttle & it’s more then enough to break the car lose & drift. The major benefit to downgrading the KV is that it will help keep the motor cooler, increase battery efficiency, & better match the motor rpm to drifting. But it’s not necessary. Im thinking of picking up the green 4KV motor, it should be perfect for drifting, allowing more throttle range at low speed & increased run time.
@@BMR3 do you have link to that green motor ? All I see is blue gray and stock red.. also you turn gearing down? I need to order pinion gears also.. I'm assuming you'll need to change something in the esc throttle power when lowering down to lower KV motor ?
jdmasfuck it looks like the 4100kv is not yet released, but it will be soon. I put a link to the Kyosho listing down below, & the head to head of the green vs blue motors. It’s just a racing/touring head to head, but will still give you an idea of the green motor. I dont think you will need to change anything since the car already has the 7:32:1 gear ratio so it should be good to go. 15T pinion & 17T spur come installed stock. You shouldn’t need to touch the ESC either. rc.kyosho.com/en/mz606.html th-cam.com/video/Xh1jbYa70Xk/w-d-xo.html
Hey @BMR 3 , just got a miniz AWD silvia and idk if mine is faulty or not, but the rear wheels doesn't seem to spin on the ground. Off the ground they spin. I put a block in front of the RC just to test if the wheels are spinning or not, but only the front wheels are spinning strong while the rear wheels aren't. Any ideas why that is? Faulty Rear Differential Gear Assembly? Pinions are latching to the Rear Differential with no issue, but just lazy rear wheels.
Ok, so yes it sounds like the differential is causing the issue. You say the spur gear is properly meshing with the rear differential correct? If so make sure there is no damage & the teeth are not stripped. If the teeth look good & the gear mesh is good then I recommend locking the gear diff so it becomes a solid axle. If power is getting properly transferred to the rear differential, then a solid axle will ensure proper energy transfer to the wheels. Hope this helps! Let me know how it goes.
@@BMR3 yeah teeth looks great and im actually still in contact with the authorized dealer of kyosho. I'll see if he can do something about it a replacement or your suggestion of locking the gear diff. Will update when i have one.
@@yanyan.729 I recommend lock the Diff you have, I have a video on my channel covering how to DIY lock the mini-z AWD differential. That will at least eliminate the Diff from the equation & help you narrow down the problem area if it dosent eliminate the issue all together. Either way good luck & let me know how it goes bro!
@@BMR3 Lock DIff worked. Wow what a difference. The power is fully transferred to the rear tires now. I used silicone instead, but I just applied it to the drive shaft caps on the left and right. I opened the Diff and it was actually missing a gear on one side where one of the drive shaft is attached. Thanks for the tips and vids. Definitely enjoying my MA-020 much better. I also ordered Front one way and also rigid axle cuz I saw a counter steering drift mod on youtube and drifts are now like RWD and not like power slides on this AWD. Maybe I also need to order the proper tires for my smooth surface vinyl floors. Any recommendations what type of tires for smooth vinyl floors with no texture?
For AWD chassis you don’t need a gyro, all it will do is limit your steering angle. The AWD is very stable & just takes time to get a feel for the handling.
For a stock awd I would say its a major disadvantage if you want to drift because the whole concept of a gyro is to help keep the car straight, so it would basically do the opposite of you want it to do.... It steers the car for you and tries to correct a slide, instead of you learning to drift raw and learning the very fine steering inputs and throttle control needed to look like a boss.
There are gyros for drifting too. The real issue is the gyro will limit your effective steering angle & AWD already suffers from extremely limited steering angle… it’s a bad combo
@@BMR3 Sure there are gyro's for drifting, up the scale to 1/10 and they actually become very good. But in my opinion and from experience, the gyro for the mini-z is totally contradictary to what we really want to achieve. And yes the steering angle does not promote its function at all. I bought a limited special edition Silvia K's Aero for myself as a christmas gift a few yeas ago and was really looking forward to the gyro, but it left me so bloody disappointed. The light kit was sweet though lol, and the body is the most beautifull thing to ever slide around on yer floor ever since I had powersliding kittens running around after their toys haha. Thankfully there are some easy costfree things you can do to the awd to make it drift really well though. I really do agree with you on the diffs beeing the no.1 thing to give attention, because the physics of a powerslide or drift does not agree with open diffs, rather works against everything the differential was designed to do from the moment of its conception really lol
BMR, If I am using my AWD for high grip racing (in the house on tile) like a sports car. I have one that no matter what, when I turn left I get over steer and I loose the back end, regardless of grip tires (I have them all). lol. So, maybe I need to look at a diff upgrade.. what would be best for racing? I was thinking of the ball diff both in front and rear? or.. should I get the setup in this video too?
so i am confused the rear is a solid rear axle, and the front is to get a one way diff, right? but then, what is the function of the one-way diff? I couldn't understand the video (i guess language is a problem)
Of course man it’s your car! You can do whatever you want with it 😉 I just dont personally like gyros for mini-z, but you might love it. Gotta try it to know right 😸 Have a good day brother!
My understanding of the diff is slightly different. while the power does get transferred, with this diff it goes to the least lightly loaded wheel, the difference between the stock axel and the solid axel is putting down the same power to both wheels rather than having it ossilate back and forward and give unpredictable handling
Just put the one way and axel in my MA-030 last monday and not sure if i prefer the upgrade of the original axels, i much prefer the rally drift to drift circuit, i felt the MA-030 already has good cornering and turning on a single wheel and i dont care for increased drift angle. some of this may be down to the LF tyres. The stock setup makes it much more about throttle control
Blitz Works you misunderstood, I dident mean that the differential is oscillating power back & forth during a corner. It’s like you said, power can be transferred to the tier depending on grip, but this only happens once during a corner, causing the car to spin unpredictably since you never know when the tier will slip. It’s funny you say you don’t like the upgraded differential performance. It will make the car smoother & more predictable so you won’t need to work the throttle as much. Maybe you should look into a CS setup so y have to work the car a lot more to maintain drift angle. What LF tier are you using??
@@BMR3 i was seeking to clarify 'on grip', it sounded as if you where saying power transfers to the wheel with grip rather than all the power going to the wheel with no grip. in some situations this causes the power to swap between wheels as the inside and outside wheels lose/gain grip The problem is not with the performance of the upgrades but the actual type of drift, i have much preferred drift fro gymkana/rally that focus more on changing direction rather than acrobatics which is about slow sideways action and maintaining smooth lines. Using LF-3s with some 4's coming, though for the surfaces i am racing i may need to pick up some LF-1s
@@BMR3 oh as a side note, with careful manipulation of the settings on the NB-4 (and the syncrotouch) you can dial out some of the e-brake effect. either by abusing the midpoint to partially energize the motor or using some of the features for petrol cars that cur out when all throttle is gone. not nearly as effective but a really really nice little hack that i have not yet found a use for, i do have it bound to a button to enable/disable it for experimentation
Jorge eastwood Hey bud, what are you looking for? The parts discussed in this video is the front one way differential & solid axle differential. I will link both below so you can look more in-depth. Let me know if this doesn’t answer your question rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw017.html rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw024.html
Have you locked the stock differential yet? If not here is a link to a video on how to do it, super simple & it’s what I’m using for my current FHSS 020: th-cam.com/video/-4VGCOyR7vU/w-d-xo.html You don’t have to spend the extra cash on a aluminum rear axle, the locked stock differential works just fine. The first upgrade should be locking the stock rear diff, & your first purchase should be a front one way 😉 best of both worlds that way. After that I would recommend aluminum motor mounts & a heat sink clip to cut down on the heat from a brushed motor.
@@BMR3 Thanks for replying so quickly! I have already watched your video on how to lock the rear differential, I'm just worried that I might break something or that it doesn't work anymore after I disassemble and assemble the car. Also, I saw a comment on one of your other videos saying that the car was really unstable after locking the rear diff and they couldn't undo it because it's superglue. I really don't want this to happen since I just got my car about a week ago. I will probably end up locking the rear diff anyway, I just hope I don't break it. The front one-way is also really hard to get. Here in Australia, the RC shops are pathetic for getting parts, especially for these mini-z cars. There is nothing for these cars. The only stores I can find with the front one-way were all in America. The prices there are good but then I have to pay an extra 50 AUD (32 USD) for shipping and sometimes more for import charges. eBay has nothing either so I'm not sure where to get the front one-way. Also, is a locked rear diff the same as a solid rear axle? Thanks for replying, your videos are really helpful by the way :)
Lol some times I respond quickly, sometimes it takes a few days but I try to always get back to people if I get a notification. It looks like Kyosho Japan has the one ways in stock if shipping is cheeper to you in Australia: rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw017.html Everybody’s driving styles are different, so what upgrades work for me, you might not like. But that said, a solid rear axle should make the car feel more stable & predicable while drifting since the power transferred to the rear tires remains even. With the open differential, power is diverted to the tire with the least amount of grip, that causes the tire to spin super fast & the car loops around mid corner causing a crash. But a solid rear axle will make it so the power remains consistent & the corner should feel smoother. If you don’t want to permanently lock the differential with glue, you can use molding clay or some kind of putty you can remove later. You could even try to just stick some paper in there, all you need to do is make it so the gears can’t spin. Glueing the gears is just the overkill way of making it so the gears don’t spin, and you know me, I take everything to the extreme haha
@@BMR3 Very good idea with the putty! I will do that or use glue, since with glue you can just pour it in without taking the whole differential apart. I will use your ma-020 disassembly video to get the diff out. Thank you for answering all my questions I really appreciate i! You've earnt yourself a well-deserved sub😀😃👍👍
@@BMR3 Ok operation done! I poured a bunch of hot glue in the rear diff. The drifts are steadier and I can drift at lower speeds, but it's harder to start a drift. Is that normal?
Thank you for informations. Ordered. I´m still waiting for car so I hope it will be as good as I expect after these upgrades :D
New to the hobby, SUPER helpful and thanks for taking the time out to put this together!
Happy to help brother! Your my target audience, I’m just trying to get as many people into this hobby as possible by making info easily available.
Thank you for the support & have a good one Nick!
I just ordered the recommended parts in this video for my Skyline R32 mini-z MA-020 chasis from RCmarti havnt even recieved me car yet... lawl super excited also ordered the light kit from plaza japan.
Thanks for this video super helpful for a newb like myself!
Happy to help brother & thank you for the kind words :)
Have a wonderful day & good luck with your build.
Had my locked rear axle installed for some time so much better. I went ahead and installed a heap of shims and spacer for ride height and wheel stance along with some front camber knuckles and front one way now I have to get used to how the car handles all over again haha
nice! there you go, its all about the fine tuning & then getting used to the new adjustments lol.
Ive noticed a lot of people neglect the stance for the smaller scale cars but it makes them look sooooo much better if you invest the time.
@@BMR3 yeah looking good is all a part of the fun. As is installing the new parts. It's just as much fun as driving in my opinion
@@Fst70y agreed
Worth noting that the mini-z gyro decreases steering range, i find gyros better for racing the RWD cars at high powers to keep them straight
Thanks for a clear explanation.
Installed front ONEWAY REAR DIFF, gyro and lights! Oh x-v speed motor 😅
I have gyro on non drift cars which is great (when dialed in correctly) I very much agree with the statement drifting and gyro is a bad combination. It doesn't make sense at all to use gyro for the purpose of 'better' or 'easier' drifting. It makes the car wobble and in a way unpredictable as well. I never drove a mini z or even a proper drift RC but I know for sure gyro is not the way to go. This video confirmed my intuitive feeling going against the mainstream opinion that Gyro makes drifting smooth. I would have almost bought my first Mini Z and included the gyro for one of the first upgrades.
Open the stock rear dif take out the planetary gears and out a rubber washer om each side.
Good to know. I just ordered the Mini Z MR03 AMG with DS Racing LF4 Tires, GL Racing Rims & Orion 900mah AAA batteries. It’s RWD car
The MR-03 sadly is not a good drift car for 1 massive reason. The mini-z has barely any steering angle & that's a massive issue for RWD drifting, you need as much angle as possible (close to 90 degree) for these tiny cars to drift effectively. Mini-z AWD is able to drift since there is power on the front tires which helps immensely
@@BMR3 So I’ve heard, during the journey to find the right tools I needed. But when the price is right, you gotta grab something up. So luckily I had one person suggest tools, so I will be better equipped for my future whip.
Exactly, live & learn but you should still have some fun with the mr-03, it’s a cool chassis. Let me know if you have any questions in the future brother, I’m happy to help!
@@BMR3 You got that right. The car should be here any day now. I haven’t looked in the description box for an alternative way to reach you, which would be a good idea.
@@The_MAD_Qyuber I keep it like that for a reason 😸 honestly I don’t need more emails since I won’t see them & I don’t like to chat on Facebook (I’m a young dinosaur 🦖)
But honestly the best way to contact me is to leave a comment on any video since I’ll receive a notification & im pretty good at responding to those. If I don’t respond in a timely manner, just leave a fresh comment (not a reply) & I’ll get double notifications. Plus the added benefit is others can come across out comment strings & find some gold nuggets.
I somehow ground the gears in my rear differential into dust lol. Time to upgrade the front and back and go from there
Oo I was just starting to record footage on the handling with different types of differentials(including slow mo :D). The looping is something I've got recorded on camera. Ball diffs actually completely rid of this issue and is a good alternative for a locked one, especially if you also want to do grip racing. As usual though, really like the commentary, should try mixing it up with some drift footage too :P
Auranapse yeah I have some footage of the looping in my 030Evo review video. I can’t wait to install my solid rear axel today! It will really improve my 030, especially the looping.
Haha thank you for saying you enjoy hearing me ramble! Maybe I will add more commentary to the videos moving forward. I was trying to have a more straightforward, streamlined, informative video with less of my commentary. Maybe I’ll go more in-depth on my opinions for a different series, or I could make longer videos but I’m not sure how that would go over.
Lol I know what you mean about the drift footage! I want to put out more, but I feel self conscious of my drifting skills lol I’m not as good as you, that’s for sure! And Beavers videos are sooooo clean it makes me want to improve ALOT more before releasing drift videos.
I also want to try something different for a future drift video. I want to use a background song I like & try to do some cool edits like slo mo to reverse slo mo depending on the beat pattern, possibly with effects layed over. Only issue is I would surly be copyright striked so I want to carefully pick my song.
I’m thinking something by Mac Dre or Andre Nickatina, I want a hyphy beat and turn my counter into a sideshow LOL! I have a bunch of bodies that just came in, so I really could make it a sideshow lol
@@BMR3 that would be cool :D I really like seeing drift montages, the one by the Mini Z Drift Club especially. Also, with multiple video cuts or takes you could probably get footage you'd like if you aren't satisfied. And through multiple takes you'd eventually get more consistent and better at drifting :P
@@BMR3 love mac dre and nickatina! I remember getting a call the night dre got shot from my friend out in the bay only time ive heard him cry. Sleep with the angels mac dre ✌
Lifestyles Of The Poor And Dangerous Mac Dre is the GOAT! Andre Nickarina, equipto, Dubee, Messy Marv, mac mall, all greats. I love Bay Area music
Just finished upgrading my mini z #drifter
Great video! Whats the big difference about this and rwd with gyro?
Hi - helpful tips! For drifting, do you recommend 4 narrow wheels or front narrows and rear wides?
Depends on how much contact area you want. I would suggest starting with 4 narrow and go from there.
I run narrow tires on my AWD & wide for my RWD drifters. How this helps!
@@BMR3 thanks for the tips!
Hey dude, can you list where you got your alu parts. That'll help with people sourcing parts
I got the rear axle and front one way from Kenon hobby, I try to order as many parts with them as possible. I will link them below, I just checked and they are in stock. Or do you mean something else?
www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-AWD-Rigid-Axle-_p_44841.html
www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-MA010-Front-Oneway-Unit_p_41357.html
@@BMR3 amazing, I think I also saw knuckles etc? :)
Nick what brand knuckles are you looking for? Also, for the front or rear?
For the broke boys out there: You should start feeling for the drift and sort of learn when the car loops around, before the car loops you want to countersteer and it cancels out the loop. Alsoalso if you’re on the default diffs you should learn throttle control more than anything else.
I get that good gear make good drivers better and all but really learning to cope with my car is the most rewarding thing for me
Boom I understand where your coming from, this Friday’s video should be right up your ally man! I decided to cover Friday’s topic after talking with you. I hope you enjoy!
It’s a simple video, but I hope it will help those who don’t want to spend extra cash on their car.
If I had to choose one, which one would be better? You said the rear solid axle was better, but is the front one not as equally important?
You can DIY a solid rear axle, save your money for a front one way or spring set.
@@BMR3 I finished the DIY solid rear axle, and I'm going to buy the front one way diff.
@@mosescheng5827 nice, if you haven’t already look into DS Racing tires (I like LF5). Tuning the tires and springs will make a world of difference. Good luck with your build bro!
Thank you for your advice! I will definitely look into that. So far, this is the only channel which provides clear details and reasons of what parts
to buy and to not buy. Keep up the good work!
For the springs do I buy the front and rear or just the front?
Can I put the rigid axle into a ma-020?
Yep, I’m using one in my 020 build
@@BMR3 Ok, thanks.
I am experiencing some of the problems that you have described in this video where when I release the throttle the back tires lock up and the car comes around. Similar to what a front one way differential would do but I do not have one installed. This forces me to have to stay in the throttle which increases speeds and doesn't allow for the drifting style that I would like. I'm using a all-wheel drive chassis and a brushed motor with solid rear axle and open front differential. I have not installed a front one way because I already get plenty of this e-brake effect. In fact too much. I noticed in your video your axle spins freely when you have it off the car in your hand. When you put the axle back on the vehicle does it still spin freely like this when it is attached to your motor? I think you have a brushless motor and I'm wondering if my problem could be the drag from my brushed motor in combination with drift tires on a slick surface equaling more drag from the motor then the drag caused by the tires on the surface which would normally allow the tires to keep rotating when the throttle is released causing the tires to lock up when not under power. Do your rear wheels keep rotating when you release the throttle with your brushless motor? It's almost like a one-way differential in the rear would be ideal to stop this e-brake effect making the car come around. Sorry for the long drawn out message here but I'm trying to explain my situation and see if you have any ideas of what could help me stop this e-brake effect when I release the throttle. Thank you for your time and providing excellent videos with so much information.
not gonna lie ive been binge watchin all this content im obsessed rn lol i bought the grey hellcat MA-020, and i went ahead and went all in and bought the one way and axle also lmaoo do you recommend driving stock at all first? or just slappin the parts in? i was big into Xmods back in the day this will be my first mini z super excited to get into rc again
If you were into Xmods then Mini-z is right up your ally! I would recommend driving it stock to get a feel for it (and make sure its running well out of the box) then once you know the chassis is good & how it should feel, then you can start swapping parts. Or you can dive in head first & install upgrade parts, but you might have random issues that are easier to diagnose on a bone stock car.
Either way these things aren't rocket since so you can trouble shoot any issues that arise. Let me know if you have any questions & good luck with your build brother! hope to see you around the community, consider joining the Facebook Mini-z groups.
I love your videos about the mini z AWD modifications. I'm almost 99% sure that in some of your videos you have shown how to deal with the CS mod. Am I right? Where I can find it?
Thank you for the support brother!
I never went over the CS mod since the DIY version doesn’t work as well as say the M Racing CS gear set & solid axle. Only issue is those are discontinued & extremely rare.
But if you want to do the CS mod yourself, check out Garage RC. He has a video covering the diy CS mod
I have this set up coming.. you think that stock 8kv motor too much for drifting ? I'm looking to get that blue one that's 5kv should get ? Or theres other types of motors that drops into this thats better ? Thanks
jdmasfuck The stock motor is a lot, I find myself bearly touching the throttle & it’s more then enough to break the car lose & drift. The major benefit to downgrading the KV is that it will help keep the motor cooler, increase battery efficiency, & better match the motor rpm to drifting. But it’s not necessary.
Im thinking of picking up the green 4KV motor, it should be perfect for drifting, allowing more throttle range at low speed & increased run time.
@@BMR3 do you have link to that green motor ? All I see is blue gray and stock red.. also you turn gearing down? I need to order pinion gears also.. I'm assuming you'll need to change something in the esc throttle power when lowering down to lower KV motor ?
jdmasfuck it looks like the 4100kv is not yet released, but it will be soon. I put a link to the Kyosho listing down below, & the head to head of the green vs blue motors. It’s just a racing/touring head to head, but will still give you an idea of the green motor.
I dont think you will need to change anything since the car already has the 7:32:1 gear ratio so it should be good to go. 15T pinion & 17T spur come installed stock. You shouldn’t need to touch the ESC either.
rc.kyosho.com/en/mz606.html
th-cam.com/video/Xh1jbYa70Xk/w-d-xo.html
What's you battery (mah) recomendation for drifting ??
Hey @BMR 3 , just got a miniz AWD silvia and idk if mine is faulty or not, but the rear wheels doesn't seem to spin on the ground. Off the ground they spin. I put a block in front of the RC just to test if the wheels are spinning or not, but only the front wheels are spinning strong while the rear wheels aren't. Any ideas why that is? Faulty Rear Differential Gear Assembly? Pinions are latching to the Rear Differential with no issue, but just lazy rear wheels.
Ok, so yes it sounds like the differential is causing the issue. You say the spur gear is properly meshing with the rear differential correct? If so make sure there is no damage & the teeth are not stripped.
If the teeth look good & the gear mesh is good then I recommend locking the gear diff so it becomes a solid axle. If power is getting properly transferred to the rear differential, then a solid axle will ensure proper energy transfer to the wheels.
Hope this helps! Let me know how it goes.
@@BMR3 yeah teeth looks great and im actually still in contact with the authorized dealer of kyosho. I'll see if he can do something about it a replacement or your suggestion of locking the gear diff. Will update when i have one.
@@yanyan.729 I recommend lock the Diff you have, I have a video on my channel covering how to DIY lock the mini-z AWD differential. That will at least eliminate the Diff from the equation & help you narrow down the problem area if it dosent eliminate the issue all together.
Either way good luck & let me know how it goes bro!
@@BMR3 cool ill search for the vid on your channel...I'll give it a go this weekend.
@@BMR3 Lock DIff worked. Wow what a difference. The power is fully transferred to the rear tires now. I used silicone instead, but I just applied it to the drive shaft caps on the left and right. I opened the Diff and it was actually missing a gear on one side where one of the drive shaft is attached. Thanks for the tips and vids. Definitely enjoying my MA-020 much better.
I also ordered Front one way and also rigid axle cuz I saw a counter steering drift mod on youtube and drifts are now like RWD and not like power slides on this AWD. Maybe I also need to order the proper tires for my smooth surface vinyl floors. Any recommendations what type of tires for smooth vinyl floors with no texture?
Is it a disadvantage or advantage to use gyro?
For AWD chassis you don’t need a gyro, all it will do is limit your steering angle. The AWD is very stable & just takes time to get a feel for the handling.
For a stock awd I would say its a major disadvantage if you want to drift because the whole concept of a gyro is to help keep the car straight, so it would basically do the opposite of you want it to do.... It steers the car for you and tries to correct a slide, instead of you learning to drift raw and learning the very fine steering inputs and throttle control needed to look like a boss.
There are gyros for drifting too. The real issue is the gyro will limit your effective steering angle & AWD already suffers from extremely limited steering angle… it’s a bad combo
@@BMR3 Sure there are gyro's for drifting, up the scale to 1/10 and they actually become very good. But in my opinion and from experience, the gyro for the mini-z is totally contradictary to what we really want to achieve. And yes the steering angle does not promote its function at all. I bought a limited special edition Silvia K's Aero for myself as a christmas gift a few yeas ago and was really looking forward to the gyro, but it left me so bloody disappointed. The light kit was sweet though lol, and the body is the most beautifull thing to ever slide around on yer floor ever since I had powersliding kittens running around after their toys haha. Thankfully there are some easy costfree things you can do to the awd to make it drift really well though.
I really do agree with you on the diffs beeing the no.1 thing to give attention, because the physics of a powerslide or drift does not agree with open diffs, rather works against everything the differential was designed to do from the moment of its conception really lol
@@jgrimsta “power sliding kittens” 😹😹😹 that was a great mental image, thank you
BMR, If I am using my AWD for high grip racing (in the house on tile) like a sports car. I have one that no matter what, when I turn left I get over steer and I loose the back end, regardless of grip tires (I have them all). lol. So, maybe I need to look at a diff upgrade.. what would be best for racing? I was thinking of the ball diff both in front and rear? or.. should I get the setup in this video too?
Can both of these upgrades be installed on a MA-030EVO?
Yes, I even have my ma-030evo featured in the background of the video & can confirm I have these installed on my chassis
so i am confused
the rear is a solid rear axle, and the front is to get a one way diff, right?
but then, what is the function of the one-way diff?
I couldn't understand the video (i guess language is a problem)
Is it still alright if I get the gyro? Cause I just did
Of course man it’s your car! You can do whatever you want with it 😉
I just dont personally like gyros for mini-z, but you might love it. Gotta try it to know right 😸
Have a good day brother!
My understanding of the diff is slightly different. while the power does get transferred, with this diff it goes to the least lightly loaded wheel, the difference between the stock axel and the solid axel is putting down the same power to both wheels rather than having it ossilate back and forward and give unpredictable handling
Just put the one way and axel in my MA-030 last monday and not sure if i prefer the upgrade of the original axels, i much prefer the rally drift to drift circuit, i felt the MA-030 already has good cornering and turning on a single wheel and i dont care for increased drift angle. some of this may be down to the LF tyres. The stock setup makes it much more about throttle control
Blitz Works you misunderstood, I dident mean that the differential is oscillating power back & forth during a corner. It’s like you said, power can be transferred to the tier depending on grip, but this only happens once during a corner, causing the car to spin unpredictably since you never know when the tier will slip.
It’s funny you say you don’t like the upgraded differential performance. It will make the car smoother & more predictable so you won’t need to work the throttle as much. Maybe you should look into a CS setup so y have to work the car a lot more to maintain drift angle.
What LF tier are you using??
@@BMR3 i was seeking to clarify 'on grip', it sounded as if you where saying power transfers to the wheel with grip rather than all the power going to the wheel with no grip. in some situations this causes the power to swap between wheels as the inside and outside wheels lose/gain grip
The problem is not with the performance of the upgrades but the actual type of drift, i have much preferred drift fro gymkana/rally that focus more on changing direction rather than acrobatics which is about slow sideways action and maintaining smooth lines.
Using LF-3s with some 4's coming, though for the surfaces i am racing i may need to pick up some LF-1s
@@BMR3 oh as a side note, with careful manipulation of the settings on the NB-4 (and the syncrotouch) you can dial out some of the e-brake effect. either by abusing the midpoint to partially energize the motor or using some of the features for petrol cars that cur out when all throttle is gone. not nearly as effective but a really really nice little hack that i have not yet found a use for, i do have it bound to a button to enable/disable it for experimentation
So that means, installing a one way diff on the front removes the capability of reversing with your rc?
Yes but just with the front wheels, the rear wheels can still use reverse.
@@BMR3 interesting. Thanks for the info! Great vid
Erik Fernandez thank you for the kind words and support!! Have a wonderful day man! 😸
Hi guy! Can you give me te reference of that piece? Thaks!
Jorge eastwood Hey bud, what are you looking for? The parts discussed in this video is the front one way differential & solid axle differential. I will link both below so you can look more in-depth. Let me know if this doesn’t answer your question
rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw017.html
rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw024.html
Thanks BMR 3
Which do you think I should get as my first upgrade: front one-way or solid rear axle?
Have you locked the stock differential yet? If not here is a link to a video on how to do it, super simple & it’s what I’m using for my current FHSS 020: th-cam.com/video/-4VGCOyR7vU/w-d-xo.html
You don’t have to spend the extra cash on a aluminum rear axle, the locked stock differential works just fine. The first upgrade should be locking the stock rear diff, & your first purchase should be a front one way 😉 best of both worlds that way.
After that I would recommend aluminum motor mounts & a heat sink clip to cut down on the heat from a brushed motor.
@@BMR3 Thanks for replying so quickly! I have already watched your video on how to lock the rear differential, I'm just worried that I might break something or that it doesn't work anymore after I disassemble and assemble the car.
Also, I saw a comment on one of your other videos saying that the car was really unstable after locking the rear diff and they couldn't undo it because it's superglue. I really don't want this to happen since I just got my car about a week ago.
I will probably end up locking the rear diff anyway, I just hope I don't break it.
The front one-way is also really hard to get. Here in Australia, the RC shops are pathetic for getting parts, especially for these mini-z cars. There is nothing for these cars. The only stores I can find with the front one-way were all in America. The prices there are good but then I have to pay an extra 50 AUD (32 USD) for shipping and sometimes more for import charges. eBay has nothing either so I'm not sure where to get the front one-way.
Also, is a locked rear diff the same as a solid rear axle?
Thanks for replying, your videos are really helpful by the way :)
Lol some times I respond quickly, sometimes it takes a few days but I try to always get back to people if I get a notification.
It looks like Kyosho Japan has the one ways in stock if shipping is cheeper to you in Australia: rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw017.html
Everybody’s driving styles are different, so what upgrades work for me, you might not like. But that said, a solid rear axle should make the car feel more stable & predicable while drifting since the power transferred to the rear tires remains even. With the open differential, power is diverted to the tire with the least amount of grip, that causes the tire to spin super fast & the car loops around mid corner causing a crash. But a solid rear axle will make it so the power remains consistent & the corner should feel smoother.
If you don’t want to permanently lock the differential with glue, you can use molding clay or some kind of putty you can remove later. You could even try to just stick some paper in there, all you need to do is make it so the gears can’t spin.
Glueing the gears is just the overkill way of making it so the gears don’t spin, and you know me, I take everything to the extreme haha
@@BMR3 Very good idea with the putty! I will do that or use glue, since with glue you can just pour it in without taking the whole differential apart. I will use your ma-020 disassembly video to get the diff out. Thank you for answering all my questions I really appreciate i! You've earnt yourself a well-deserved sub😀😃👍👍
@@BMR3 Ok operation done! I poured a bunch of hot glue in the rear diff. The drifts are steadier and I can drift at lower speeds, but it's harder to start a drift. Is that normal?
finding a front one-way diff is almost impossible today! 😭😭😭
RCm8 has them in stock, here is a link: www.rcm8.net/products/front-oneway-diff-unit-miniz-awd?sca_ref=312304.oK4xOMQWY0
@@BMR3 ordered and bookmarked that whole page, that's a terrific resource! thank you
@@jacob.pavone happy to help buddy! RCm8 is a great company & my new go to for mini-z parts