Oh my word - off again. Don’t seem to have had much luck lately. Fingers crossed the rebuild will do its job and you can get back to what you love. Happy new Year to you Kendall and Glenn and hope 2024 is a great year for you (and Leo of course).
Happy New Year Guys , being done two restorations my self , I know how you feel totally , but keep at it, nothing like driving a old Land Rover you will make awesome memories
The 2.25 is a really easy engine to rebuild-the only fiddly part is cam bearings are awkward to fit if they need replacing and valve rocker shaft bushings need reaming to fit. But everything else is pretty straight forward.. Dont forget to check the dizzy shaft bushings for wear while youve got it out. Good luck and happy 2024!
No need to replace the bulkhead, just weld it up. No need to remove the engine in order to remove the bulkhead. The list below is going off my memory of rebuilding Series 3 Land Rover's in the 1990's. Remove the hard top roof, remove the doors, remove the floor panels, remove the gear tunnel, remove the front wings, rmove the windscreen, disconnect the battery, disconnect the heater hoses, accelerator linkage, disconnect the brake pipe, disconnect the clutch flexi hose, disconnect the steering from the control arm that goes forward to the steering relay, disconnect the wiring to the engine, disconnect the speedo cable from the dashboard or gearbox end, disconnect the fuel line, disconnect the choke cable (petrol engine only), now get an overhead crane (ideally), floor crane or machine to lift the bulkhead. Make two simple lifting brackets and fit them to where the toop door hinges fitted and attach a lifting strap to each or adjustable chains. Attach straps or chains to the forward bulkhead to chassis brackets. Attach all straps/chains to lifting device and take up most of the slack but do not apply tension. Remove all bracket bolts to chassis rail. Apply slight tension to chains/straps. Equalise all chains/straps in tension or as near as possible. Remove the two usually very rusted in bulkhead bolts that pass through the bulkhead outriggers. The bulkhead should be technically unfixed. Gently lift the bulkhead clear and away. You can then, rebuild the engine in the chassis where it will be safely held by the chassis to work on. Allow a good day to remove the bulkhead.
Reach out to Geoff of Seriously series if in a spot of bother .. safety in numbers ,you'll get there. Using a piece of cardboard to push bolts etc into with a rough diagram can be very useful.
Thanks for the tip! Geoff seems like a legend from all the videos I've watched of his. And yes the cardboard diagram works a treat! Thankfully has helped me stay organised (at least a little haha).
I can watch any number of travellers driving round in mega dollar set ups , but prefer to follow guys like you that just do it simply , ( keep it simple s ) , cheers , Markrh ,
Love your vintage landy what awesome rigs they are . Great video again you two , cheers from Steve Stott in Sutherlin Oregon U.S.A. :) :) 🎄☃️🍾🥂👍🏼😁..P.S. HAPPY NEW YEAR .
Happy New Year , might be to late with this advice , alternative products you could try , penetrative, use a 50/50 mix of acetone and Auto trans Fluid , for degreasing , use oven cleaner , works a treat , but don't leave it on Aluminium, as it might eat into it , good luck , cheers , Markrh ,,,
Happy New Year I am wondering why you didn’t get a galvanised one from the UK it would last longer . I wish you luck with the rebuild I am looking forward to watching your progress GOOD LUCK.
Should t-wash the galv bulkhead before painting as it gives a key for the paint and stops it jsut peeling off, also should have degreased it as there will be residue greases from both the galv process and handling as well as other sources. Absolutely no point in anti-rust painting a galv bulkhead, that is what the galv is for... Sacraficial coating. your replacement engine was ice damaged, so the engine froze up hard one time.
Thankfully we don't. Vance will always have a soft spot in our hearts but we love Nigel and don't really feel like we are missing out on anything that Vance provided us with :)
It’s great that you’re doing this together. It’s rare to find such devotion. Put copper grease on the bolts. It’s worth the effort.
Nice!!
Good on you guys. HUGE JOB. Might need to get Nigel next to the 75 series!
Yesss they'd look so good together!
Happy 2024 Glenn and Kendall cant wait for the build end result
Happy new year Kendall and Glenn!
Same to you!
Boris the Defender in the UK, has also done a Bulkhead replacement. It's on TH-cam, worth watching. Happy New Year to everyone.
Ahh yes we did see that! What a rig. Happy new year to you too :)
Very exciting. Been there, done that with my old Series 2A Landy too, so loving this rebuild!
Best wishes for 2024!
Geez I would luv to tare down my GQ and start again...looks like you got your work cut out for you. Wishing you luck and best wishes for 2024! 🎉🎉
Being a Landy owner, I am loving the rebuild. All the best for 2024.
Well done guys! Sending you loads of positive vibes for the build process. You’ve got this!👊
Thanks so much :)
Happy new year Kendall and Glenn and wishing you a great year with much time on the road !
Another exciting (right?) project! Excited to watch the progress come along
Good job !
Oh my word - off again. Don’t seem to have had much luck lately. Fingers crossed the rebuild will do its job and you can get back to what you love. Happy new Year to you Kendall and Glenn and hope 2024 is a great year for you (and Leo of course).
Happy New Year Guys , being done two restorations my self , I know how you feel totally , but keep at it, nothing like driving a old Land Rover you will make awesome memories
What a labour of love. Very impressive that you are taking this on . Good luck and happy new year!
Happy new year guys, looking forward to the rebuild.
The 2.25 is a really easy engine to rebuild-the only fiddly part is cam bearings are awkward to fit if they need replacing and valve rocker shaft bushings need reaming to fit. But everything else is pretty straight forward.. Dont forget to check the dizzy shaft bushings for wear while youve got it out. Good luck and happy 2024!
Thanks for the tips Nick!
No need to replace the bulkhead, just weld it up. No need to remove the engine in order to remove the bulkhead. The list below is going off my memory of rebuilding Series 3 Land Rover's in the 1990's.
Remove the hard top roof, remove the doors, remove the floor panels, remove the gear tunnel, remove the front wings, rmove the windscreen, disconnect the battery, disconnect the heater hoses, accelerator linkage, disconnect the brake pipe, disconnect the clutch flexi hose, disconnect the steering from the control arm that goes forward to the steering relay, disconnect the wiring to the engine, disconnect the speedo cable from the dashboard or gearbox end, disconnect the fuel line, disconnect the choke cable (petrol engine only), now get an overhead crane (ideally), floor crane or machine to lift the bulkhead.
Make two simple lifting brackets and fit them to where the toop door hinges fitted and attach a lifting strap to each or adjustable chains. Attach straps or chains to the forward bulkhead to chassis brackets. Attach all straps/chains to lifting device and take up most of the slack but do not apply tension. Remove all bracket bolts to chassis rail. Apply slight tension to chains/straps. Equalise all chains/straps in tension or as near as possible. Remove the two usually very rusted in bulkhead bolts that pass through the bulkhead outriggers. The bulkhead should be technically unfixed. Gently lift the bulkhead clear and away.
You can then, rebuild the engine in the chassis where it will be safely held by the chassis to work on. Allow a good day to remove the bulkhead.
Happy New Year Kendall and Glenn. Such an awesome project, and even better being able to follow along with the progress. Hope it all goes smoothly🙏
Happy new year legend!! Hope we cross paths again some time this year 😊🙌🏼
💯 Tassie trip to break in the engine? ☺️ We'll definitely be doing a big mainland trip again at some point too.
Happy New Year ! Wishing you both a wonderful New Year. Good luck with Nigel. 😊
Thanks Sharon! Happy new year! 🥰
Reach out to Geoff of Seriously series if in a spot of bother .. safety in numbers ,you'll get there.
Using a piece of cardboard to push bolts etc into with a rough diagram can be very useful.
Thanks for the tip! Geoff seems like a legend from all the videos I've watched of his. And yes the cardboard diagram works a treat! Thankfully has helped me stay organised (at least a little haha).
Also would be advisable to get some plastigauge and check the bearing clearances too
I can watch any number of travellers driving round in mega dollar set ups , but prefer to follow guys like you that just do it simply , ( keep it simple s ) , cheers , Markrh ,
Takes me back to…
I did a 2.25 diesel to 186 Holden swap on a very similar vehicle back in 1984 !
You guys are so hardcore…good vibes in your future!
Thank you!! :)
Love your vintage landy what awesome rigs they are . Great video again you two , cheers from Steve Stott in Sutherlin Oregon U.S.A. :) :) 🎄☃️🍾🥂👍🏼😁..P.S. HAPPY NEW YEAR .
Thanks so much Steve!! We sure have a soft spot for these ol’ landys 🥰 hope you have a lovely NYE celebration! 🎉
@@KendallandGlenn ..😁
❤
British engineering at its finest! Until someone changes a few bolts! 😂
❤🍦🤗
Happy New Year , might be to late with this advice , alternative products you could try , penetrative, use a 50/50 mix of acetone and Auto trans Fluid , for degreasing , use oven cleaner , works a treat , but don't leave it on Aluminium, as it might eat into it , good luck , cheers , Markrh ,,,
Sick truck,heaps better than the new shit
Happy New Year I am wondering why you didn’t get a galvanised one from the UK it would last longer . I wish you luck with the rebuild I am looking forward to watching your progress GOOD LUCK.
This is galvanised thankfully, then we are using rust bullet to really protect it before painting it. Thanks a lot Roger!
Yeeeha first guys!!
Yewwww finger on the pulse!!
Maybe I missed it in the video but just wondering why you’re pulling the motor apart?
Should t-wash the galv bulkhead before painting as it gives a key for the paint and stops it jsut peeling off, also should have degreased it as there will be residue greases from both the galv process and handling as well as other sources. Absolutely no point in anti-rust painting a galv bulkhead, that is what the galv is for... Sacraficial coating.
your replacement engine was ice damaged, so the engine froze up hard one time.
How are you going to replace all them old bolts ?
Thankfully with a lot of research and a lot of ordered parts I will have a lot of new nuts and bolts!
@@KendallandGlenn did you get them from a local bolt shop or a Land Rover shop online ?
Do you have regrets selling the VW t3 ?
Thankfully we don't. Vance will always have a soft spot in our hearts but we love Nigel and don't really feel like we are missing out on anything that Vance provided us with :)
oven cleaner makes for easy degreasing
Nothing is easy on a land rover
Tip,, when in doubt, get a bigger hammer...
Compre un carro más nuevo!! Para que puedan viajar más tranquilos,..y no tenga problemas de motor...