Are you going to use 230V lights in the van? If not it\s rather unnecessary to run cables with that much extra insulation. They look like normal rubber cables that you use for extension cables, and that extra outer rubber part is not really needed for 12v electrics. The conduits would have been enough for that and just run single insulated wires in them. That would have taken upp much less room in the conduits. You should only use 230V for wall sockets more or less, maybe for the cooking plates if they need it but most other things should be run on just 12V or sometimes 24V if you want to have double batteries in series like they have in heavy trucks.
Great work, but wondering if it would have been easier to run a few PVC conduit runs on the floor between the main side supports so you could run all the wires under the floor instead of in and around the roof ribs. Most of the electrical connectors are closer to the floor so less wire runs and easier to work with junctions in cabinets and walls without having to bulk up higher spaces that make the space feel more cramped?
I thought the same - in modern buildings (at least here in Germany) the cables/conduits are also run on the floor and not anymore along the walls. Would also have been easier here I think.
OK> NOTE: I cannot understand why you didn't run your main 240VAC conduit BEHIND all the bulkhead struts/fixtures. There's plenty of space to run that thick conduit and save all that intrusion into the cabin. With the lights. there's a simple 'two way' lights circuit that allows for two switches for one light. One switch down low on the entry to the van door and the other next to your bed. Either one turns the lights on or off.
Whenever you do a voiceover, there seems to be quite some noise coming with your mic. Nothing major but I noticed it so perhaps you can take a look at it haha
Your 12v lights / USB power supplies... Amps @ 5v is not the same as Amps @ 12.8v The input is ~ 12v/24v nominal and the charger will output 5v @ 2A, between the input and the USB terminal will be a DC-DC converter that in converting the input to ~ 5.1v for the USB port. I'll run you through the calculations based on what the package is telling you. The USB port is 5volts @ 2 amp - 5v * 2A = 10watts The light itself, maybe 1 watt, lets say 2, so with the USB port that's 12 watts * 2 of these devices = 24 watts You nominal system voltage (input voltage for the device) is 12.8v So to calculate current take power and divide by voltage 24w / 12.8v = 1.875 amps So actually less than 2 amps for the 2 units combined. The DC-DC converters in the USB ports will be ~ 90% efficent to round up a little Lets say 2 amps even for the 2 combined. Also acceptable loss for non sensitive devices should be 5% or more. If you chase 2% you're going to spend a fortune on cable for no gain. Overkill is fine... until so much of the system is overkill and the whole job has doubled in price and you're trying to squeeze cables into tight places and run out of room.
The worst thing about these vids, it's the blind leading the blind. 240VAC is for when you're parked in a park with power for charging and/or using your fridge/freezer and maybe an A/C unit or a power tool. Everything else should be on either LPG or 12VDC. The most important item in the van is at least one RCD and maybe a second one on the extension cord from the power pole to the van inlet.
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
WOOOOOOO like the pace that these videos are coming out at!
You continue to create new channels, I'll keep on subscribing!
It's looking to be a pretty cool build. Looking forward to seeing the upcoming videos!
Loving this series Matt. Onwards & upwards M8. Take care & stay safe.
Are you going to use 230V lights in the van? If not it\s rather unnecessary to run cables with that much extra insulation. They look like normal rubber cables that you use for extension cables, and that extra outer rubber part is not really needed for 12v electrics. The conduits would have been enough for that and just run single insulated wires in them. That would have taken upp much less room in the conduits. You should only use 230V for wall sockets more or less, maybe for the cooking plates if they need it but most other things should be run on just 12V or sometimes 24V if you want to have double batteries in series like they have in heavy trucks.
like it a lot! details take time... even more if you want to be so prolific with it.
Thanks for sharing.
Great work, but wondering if it would have been easier to run a few PVC conduit runs on the floor between the main side supports so you could run all the wires under the floor instead of in and around the roof ribs. Most of the electrical connectors are closer to the floor so less wire runs and easier to work with junctions in cabinets and walls without having to bulk up higher spaces that make the space feel more cramped?
I thought the same - in modern buildings (at least here in Germany) the cables/conduits are also run on the floor and not anymore along the walls. Would also have been easier here I think.
OK> NOTE: I cannot understand why you didn't run your main 240VAC conduit BEHIND all the bulkhead struts/fixtures. There's plenty of space to run that thick conduit and save all that intrusion into the cabin. With the lights. there's a simple 'two way' lights circuit that allows for two switches for one light. One switch down low on the entry to the van door and the other next to your bed. Either one turns the lights on or off.
cool
Whenever you do a voiceover, there seems to be quite some noise coming with your mic. Nothing major but I noticed it so perhaps you can take a look at it haha
Yea there is a little squeal on it. Need to replace it but im a cheapskate
@@FreeOnlineWoodworkingSchoolI don't notice it but Adobe Podcast is a life saver for voice over 😊
Your 12v lights / USB power supplies...
Amps @ 5v is not the same as Amps @ 12.8v
The input is ~ 12v/24v nominal and the charger will output 5v @ 2A, between the input and the USB terminal will be a DC-DC converter that in converting the input to ~ 5.1v for the USB port.
I'll run you through the calculations based on what the package is telling you.
The USB port is 5volts @ 2 amp - 5v * 2A = 10watts
The light itself, maybe 1 watt, lets say 2, so with the USB port that's 12 watts
* 2 of these devices = 24 watts
You nominal system voltage (input voltage for the device) is 12.8v
So to calculate current take power and divide by voltage
24w / 12.8v = 1.875 amps
So actually less than 2 amps for the 2 units combined.
The DC-DC converters in the USB ports will be ~ 90% efficent to round up a little
Lets say 2 amps even for the 2 combined.
Also acceptable loss for non sensitive devices should be 5% or more.
If you chase 2% you're going to spend a fortune on cable for no gain.
Overkill is fine... until so much of the system is overkill and the whole job has doubled in price and you're trying to squeeze cables into tight places and run out of room.
The worst thing about these vids, it's the blind leading the blind. 240VAC is for when you're parked in a park with power for charging and/or using your fridge/freezer and maybe an A/C unit or a power tool. Everything else should be on either LPG or 12VDC.
The most important item in the van is at least one RCD and maybe a second one on the extension cord from the power pole to the van inlet.