I just have to say thank you so much everybody told me the transmission was blown and that I just wasted $500 and I did the switches I did the filter 3 quart drain and fill and I’m gonna do probably two more eventually so it’s nice and red but she’s shifting she’s running going into every gear no problem no big clunk either! Do you, sir are a saint and I will tell every single person who has any Honda transmission problems about this channel!
I'm a bit late to respond, but that's amazing to hear! I remember transmission shops telling me the same thing. They don't diagnose transmissions, they only replace them. Thank you for watching and sharing my channel!
My transmission started having issues last month and so far I have changed the fluid and the filter which has helped significantly. I am still have problems going from 2nd to 3rd occasionally so tomorrow I will clean the solenoid screens, if that doesn't help, I will replace the 3rd gear switch. Hopefully one of those fixes works. Your videos have been very helpful so THANK YOU.
Glad to hear there has been some improvement! Sometimes a second ATF drain and fill may be necessary if the fluid was dirty enough. But yes, clean those screen filters, and see what happens next. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplehey I have a question for you. I have talked to you before. I have a 2001 3.2 CL type S and its getting back into transmission behavior and it really started yesterday when it's super hot outside. I live in the deep south. But I'm wanting to try and change the transmission cooler but it's not the radiator style it's the canister type thats on top of the tranny. I'm trying to find out if this is a recall changed part. Because I can't find a radiator style anywhere on it. And I've only seen 1 video where a guy was changing on the exact same engine. Any help ?? TIA
@@darrinwatts9979 Looks like the only recalls for your vehicle are the 2nd gear Oil Jet recall on the original transmission, and the 2 airbag recalls. There is no external radiator ATF cooler on these cars otherwise. It certainly wouldn't hurt to add one! Otherwise, make sure you're regularly changing the ATF every 15k miles and coolant every 60k miles/60 months to ensure proper lubrication and cooling properties.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple ok thank you and ..... what is the part # of the one on top of the transmission the cannister type ?? Do you think you could find out ? It's aluminum looking and I can't find out how/where to order it
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Ive got an '02 TL-S I do not want to get rid of. These cars are forgotten hidden gems of early 00's Honda. My trans just started acting up, I hope I caught it before anything catastrophic happened.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple So we changed the Filter and ATF and it came right back!. The Car is working again. I bet the fluid that came was out from the factory. Thanks again.
Hello,this past summer I had my rear chassis replaced on my 2002 Acura tl type s. (like yours)When I got it back I started getting the D5 blinking on my dash!!!😫😫😫 The vehicle wouldn't shift into overdrive on freeways!! Smh..I never had any problems with the transmission in the 4+years I've had the car!!! I changed solenoids B&C and still have the same problem!!! I check on the Acura forum and read that I needed to change the transmission temperature sensor!! I ordered it today and saw you're video changing the mounts!!! I'll do the same!! Keep up the good work!!👍👍👍
That sounds like a headache! Good for you for doing a great job maintaining your car and keeping her running! Thanks for watching my videos and glad they have been helpful!
Thank you again for the awesome video, I bought my 02 TL-S at 115k back in 2007 and got a new transmission for $500 thru an Acura mechanic friend of my mom, ever since then I've been doing 3x3 drain & fill for ATF and still doing smooth. I'm currently on 237k with the original engine and that transmission I got after the vehicle purchase. so I'd say that transmission's been on its 120k miles with no major tune up other than ATF replacement. a couple of things to point out is that I did my very first transmission filter replacement at 237k so I guess I've been lucked out by clean ATF I've been maintaining? and also I didn't see any external oil-jet kit installed on where ATF filler bolt's located, I saw some people saying that they switched to the internal jet-kit but mine was replaced in 2007 so I don't know if they just didn't install that or it has an internal one. I might revisit this video in case I notice some slippery on either 3rd or 4th gear, but I just wanted to share my experience with you since you're pretty big on maintaining your transmission :) I mean I guess every 2nd gen owner should be haha.
thank you! Yeah i guarantee most transmission failures on these cars were due to not changing the ATF enough. I've had so many commenters with car problems tell me their fluid is black or the level is low. Any transmission made after 2005 I believe has an internal oil jet, and all the others have the external recall. Keep up the great work with your car!
I replaced everything you did, fluid aswell, drove A bit better, still the same problem, transmission needs a new, or rebuild. thats what i did this month nice like new.
I've done a drain and fill with the filter, cleaned all 4 solenoid screens, and replaced the 3rd gear pressure switch. The trans is still slipping; anything else to try besides another drain and fill and the 4th gear switch?
The 1999 vehicles have a 4 speed transmission, which have a 2nd and 3rd gear pressure switch. The 2000 and newer vehicles have a 5 speed transmission and only have a 3rd and 4th gear pressure switch. So no, the 2003 CL does not have a second gear pressure switch. Perhaps check out my solenoid screen cleaning video and ensure those little filters aren’t clogged. Also check the condition and level of your transmission fluid, it should not be dark or smell burnt, and the level should be between the 2 dots on the dipstick. Do a 3 quart drain and fill using Honda DW-1 ATF if you haven’t changed the fluid in a while. If that all checks out, your last bet would probably be the shift solenoid valves. Try the other things first and come back if you still need help!
Just bought an 03 TL type s with 99k miles. One owner and they maintained it at the dealer. No check engine light but trans sometimes slips when stopping and is trying to go back into 1st. Sometimes it’ll slip when going from 1st to 2nd and sometimes a delay from 2nd to 3rd. Trans fluid was clean when I got it. Did a drain and fill with OEM fluid and replaced filter as well. Cleaned filters on the larger solenoids that I got from your other video (thanks for that). Do you think changing these two solenoids will make a difference? Any other suggestions?
Congrats on the new car! You're off to a great start with maintaining your vehicle. 2nd to 3rd delay is normal on these cars, unfortunately. But there's still a good chance you could benefit from replacing the 3rd gear Oil Pressure switch as many other people have. My car also sometimes slips going back into 1st, but only when the transmission is cold. Slipping from 1st to 2nd is more uncommon. I would ensure that the transmission fluid is at the proper level th-cam.com/video/SjYVD2WCrCM/w-d-xo.html Also, if you did find gunk in the solenoid screens, as odd as it may sound there is a chance they may need to be cleaned again. Good luck!
Hello, I’m having problems with my 1-2 gear now with 2003 Acura TL type S. So rewind one day 2 weeks ago my tranny almost locked up when I went from breaking at 40MPH to just touching the gas pedal. Nose of car dived down for a second and after that 3-4th gear where delayed a lot with very hard shift and other gears where also funky . No codes ever showed up. I did an immediate drain and fill and AT filter change which pretty much brought it back to life. ATF was pretty blackened/dark grey and hard a slight burnt smell, lots of grey Sludge on drain plug. However there was still a sputter from 3-4th gear and I tried driving a tad hard and it would be worse but intermittently and if I did it just right it would be a perfect shift with no stutter, could be engine mounts. When I switched it into manual shifting it clunked for a second. So I found your prior video last week Monday and cleaned the solenoid screens. Which helped out a lot with all shifts but made 1-2 gear shift pretty hard when cold, bottom single solenoid screen was clogged and the center pillar screen was slightly clogged on A/B, I could do a few higher RPM pulls with a slight stutter from 3-4, I figured it was the engine mounts and yes they where absolutely shot, so I was able to replace the front and side the other day which helped quite a bit, and will replace the two transmission mounts soon, and pay someone to do the rear engine mount. After the solenoid screen cleaning, 1-2 gear has been hard. This morning coming out of my driveway the car would not shift from 1-2then shifted pretty hard, I then got a check engine light, flashing D5 and VSA stayed on, car would not shift or move at all. After turning the car off and on, it went away except the check engine light, it was able to shift like it did before, I’m sure it would be better once warmed up. So, is there a 1-2 gear pressure switch? And 3-4th? My 4-5th shift seem pretty good. However I’m unaware what to do next. I will be pulling the codes later today. Side note, sometimes doing a higher RPM pull would cause the rpm to shoot up 500rpms going from 3-4th but shift into gear perfectly, could be engine mount since it was before I did those. Also I possibly damaged the top solenoid while taking it off, it was stuck and I tried prying it with a screw driver and bent the A/B solenoid housing (closest one to the front of the car) about an 1/8in maybe 1/4in. I did shift it back into place. Maybe it’s sticking now and if that’s the one that controls 1-2 gear it could be that. Edit; just pulled the codes, got P1750 as the only one. Thank you.
Yah you definitely damaged the solenoid. That code is saying it needs to be replaced. Make sure you get a Genuine Honda part, aftermarket ones have been know to give people problems. Part number is 28250-P6H-024. You can get a used one on eBay for $40-60 or a brand new one for $350.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yeah, I actually just replaced it yesterday and 1-2 gear shifts butter smooth. The RPMs from 2-3 still jump 200-300 then shifts a bit aggressive but smoother. And 4-3 is clunky. Literally just finished replacing the 3rd and 4th pressure switch. It did not fix it and I found black partials in the A/T dip stick. Seems like it’s probably the 3-4th gear clutch pack unfortunately. It could be the speed sensor or the power solenoids. I’ll be replacing 28500-P6H-013 and 28400-P6H-013 on the top near A/B solenoid. I will let you know if that fixed the RPMs jumping on 3rd. I posted a video on my account if you need to see the current problem. Thank you for your videos they are amazing quality and detailed.
When i search through acura parts for less i get 28600-p7w-013 instead of - 003. I have exact same car as you. Do you know if it's the same 4th gear switch? Just with a different last three numbers? Thanks
looks like -013 is the newer part that replaces the old -003. I might have copied the wrong number in the description. also the 3rd and 4th gear switches are not the same part.
I have a 2002 TL with a 2008 TL tranny that was put in by the Acura dealer about 15 years ago, and it worked beautifully all these years. But recently, I thought that the transmission went out. About 9 months ago, I was driving down the highway, and the transmission just slipped out of gear. I pushed the accelerator down, and it just acted like it was in neutral. The engine just revved. So I figured it might be just that one gear. So I shifted down. It was in gear for 5 to 10 seconds, and then slipped. I kept downshifting thinking it might just be certain gears. But all of the gears seemed to be having issues. I was able to get it off the highway. I did have to stop at a light, and then I was able to drive the car a little bit more. But when I had to go up a hill, it started slipping a lot. So I just pulled over and had it towed. It’s been sitting for the past 9 months. I recently revived it, bc I was going to sell it. But in the process of getting it ready for sale, I just thought I would try driving it up and down the driveway. I was able to drive it up and down the driveway about 10 times before it started slipping (maybe it slips when it heats up?). So based on what I just said, do you think it’s possible that I can just change the ATF and filter, and have the car start working again like others in the comments have done? Or do you think it needs a solenoid? If so, which one? I have never changed the transmission fluid since I bought the car in 2007 with 60k miles on it. It now has 161k miles on it. Btw, I did smell the transmission fluid right after the slipping event, and it did smell burnt. My mechanic said he had a customer who changed their transmission fluid, and the transmission died a week later, bc he had not changed the transmission fluid in a long time. But I think he had a ATF flush done as well. So maybe the pressure from the flush caused the tranny to go kaput. That’s why I never changed the ATF when it was still working, bc I had not changed it since I bought the car. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
So it’s definitely a scam for any mechanic or dealership to try and scare you into not changing the ATF or saying it’s a “lifetime fluid”. A flush will definitely make it worse, but drain and fills are fine. You should definitely change the ATF right away, and yes, there’s a very good chance it could revive your transmission. I would even recommend doing 2 or even 3 drain-and-fills for that matter because of how bad the fluid is. I would recommend driving the car a few hundred miles or at least as much as possible in between changes though. Cleaning the solenoid screen filters has been a big resolution for these cars as well. I made a separate video for the solenoid screen filters and the ATF on my channel if you want to check those out!
It could be a list of problems that unfortunately is hard to diagnose without being there and knowing the history of the vehicle. Does it have a CEL? You could check the basics including the air filter, spark plugs, and transmission fluid. Otherwise, you shouldn’t be driving in 5th gear below 45mph anyways, so a simple solution would be to put the gear selector in D4 for city driving, and put it in D5 for 45+
Hey man I need help, I have a 02 Acura TL type s, my transmission goes thru every gear when driving, but when I give full throttle it just won’t go to the next year like it will stay stuck so like it’s like slipping when I give full throttle, and then also noticed I’ve lost power
Kinda hard to say without being there in person. I always recommend starting with ensuring the ATF is clean and not over/underfilled. Also, do you have any check engine light codes?
Recently bought a 183K 2003 Acura tl and the engine purrs but the transmission seems to be iffy. As a broke college kid and someone who knows what a transmission should be like this seems like a way better replacement than completely rebuilding the transmission. The only thing being every 15k miles as a person who isn't mechanically inclined would end up being expensive so looks like I gotta learn haha. It has intermittent problems with 2 to 3 and 3to 4 and has a really really hard time when it's first started up after sitting awhile. Those both sound like A. Electrical problems and B. Pressure problems So hopefully after a bit of saving I can start work :)
The fluid changes are super easy and you can certainly save a lot of money doing it yourself! I have a video on replacing the ATF on my channel if you haven’t seen that already. And by the sounds of it with you having gear specific problems, this certainly sounds like a solution for you. Hope this works and thanks for watching!
Yes, it's the same parts and process. Our cars have practically the same transmission. You could get one at AutoZone, but you'll still be paying about the same amount of money, I'd rather get the OEM part from Honda.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you. Yeah I checked, and, same price, same thing, just made with cheaper parts. I think this is specifically what's wrong with my car. Then again, my fluid is overfilled, I checked it. I am going to jusr change it with the Honda stuff. Do you think the transmission might be hurt if I drove it around too long with it messed up like this? I was thinking of when I change it with the Honda fluid to add some Lucas oil, do you think that's a good idea or a bad idea?
@@georgejohnson445 if the fluid is overfilled, it can increase the pressure inside the transmission and mess us seals, gaskets, and more. I also would not recommend the lucas, because that fluid is so thick, and one of the problems with these transmissions are the numerous tiny screen filters that already have a problem clogging up.
Hey i see you on acurazine all the time ur really smart with this car i was thinking of buying a duralast transmission oil pressure switch is tht a good idea
Thank you! I would be cautious about buying aftermarket solenoids. I have heard some people claim their transmission performed worse or not at all after replacing solenoids with an aftermarket one. Browse a few different Acura parts websites since pricing and shipping can vary greatly from one to another. I've had good luck with factoryacuraparts.com recently.
@@backnd_2329 on average when ordering from any of these Acura parts websites, you can expect to receive your parts in about 5-6 days on average after ordering them using the lowest cost shipping option.
I had check engine light and TCS light come on 01 Acura TL 171000 miles Code reading P0730 P0740 need help haven't replaced any of the pressure switches yet did do the 3 transmission quarts in and out and replace the transmission filter dual linear solenoid cleaned n put back n the other did the same I don't know what else to do
Mine was having issues with the d5 flashing an it started to slip an it would high rev then shift hard and it also shut itself off when I came to a stop I had changed the transmission fluid an then had it flushed some people say about the solenoids but I tried to change them an the dealership said not to cuz of being pressurized I’m new to all this was hoping maybe you would have an answer of what maybe I could do to get driving again it will drive alittle bit after sitting awhile when I put it in gear I can hear the transmission or engine something making a lot of noise idk what that means thanks in advanced
Do you have a check engine light code? Could be a lot of things. Easiest thing to ensure is that you’re using Honda DW-1 and not aftermarket fluid. Also ensure the ATF isn’t under/overfilled. Next I would check out my solenoid screen filter video and give that a try, it’s helped thousands of people!
Is there a compatible trans fluid that’s not Honda? I’m buying a 02CL-S with trans problems and I want to drain and fill it right there then do the filter with Honda
I’ve heard of some people using Valvoline maxlife, but personally as someone with 338,000 original miles of their transmission, I recommend the OEM Honda DW-1. You can buy a box of 12 quarts on Amazon for $108
It’s either the A/T clutch pressure control solenoids located on the top driver side of the transmission, and/or the shift solenoid valves. 2 of them are located on the front passenger side of the transmission and one on the top passenger side. Firstly, check your transmission fluid to make sure it’s not dirty or under/overfilled. Next I would do an ohm test on each of the solenoids. The driver side ones should be 5 ohms, and the passenger side ones 12-25 ohms.
It only does it when I’m on my way home in stop and go traffic, and strangely only does it on certain roads it will start. It will go from 1 to 2 OK but sometimes it will slip as it tries to go into third. And when it’s really bad I’ll be going about 40 miles an hour and it will try to downshift into second. I noticed if I slap it into neutral when I come to a stop at red lights or in traffic and let it idle in neutral for a little bit it doesn’t seem to do it as bad. On the way into work it’s smooth sailing then again I’m going highway speeds almost the whole time. Thank you for that video I watch the video cleaning the screens and I dug out the battery and the air box and took the top one off those screens were fairly clean the one below it, was a little dirty so I cleaned it I ohm tested all three solenoids and all of them are over five. The bottom one was reading about 5.2, but I tested it both ways positive negative navigate if I’m positive and it was 5.2 both ways the ones on the top for 5.2 one-way and zero the other way does that make sense? Anyway I change the transmission fluid and change the filter right after it started doing it a few months ago. This thing is driving me crazy! Lol The transmission only seems slightly overfilled? And I replaced a quart with the Lucas anti-slip stuff. But doesn’t seem to make much of a difference. Thanks again for your timely reply and your videos, and helping folks out
@@weebleslove469 I don't know why it would only get an ohm reading one way, but I would say it passed that test. If it's an option I would drain a little bit of fluid so it's not over the max fill line. Just make sure the vehicle is warmed up, engine off, and parked on a level surface when checking the dipstick. If cleaning the screen filters and changing the transmission fluid hasn't helped, I might recommend replacing the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid with the 3 screen filters located on the top driver side of the transmission. Despite passing the ohm test, over time these solenoids can go bad. Perhaps they simply get sluggish or the piston loses its full range of motion, but I have received numerous testimonies that replacing it has fixed their transmission issues. Just make sure you get an OEM part as the aftermarket ones tend to cause problems as well. If you're looking for a band-aid fix, you can get a cheap used one on eBay or from a junkyard for about $50. Otherwise, if you're planning on keeping this vehicle for a long time still, I would get a new one. $360 is a lot but worth it.
I have honda civic fd 2.0... Aotumatic trans... For a cold start, I had to heat the car for 20 minutes..if not, shift from P to D would make the shift jerk.. Please tell me what would cause this?
Assuming you don’t have any check engine lights, you could firstly ensure that your ATF is clean and red, not dark, brown, black, or burnt smelling. Also make sure the ATF is not over/underfilled. and be sure to use Honda DW-1 fluid! Aftermarket fluids can cause harder shifting
@@macej8696 it would mean something is abnormal with the car. You can look these engine codes up online and they’ll give you more specific information on what the code means and how to fix it. Sometimes it’s as simple as adding or changing the fluid.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple oh I guess it didn’t work for me :( I had the same issue as you with the 3rd gear slipping no check engine. Just replaced it now and it still slips…
@@maximebolduc6499 I’m sorry this didn’t work for you. Perhaps a couple other things you could try is ensuring your ATF is clean and not under/overfilled, and also try cleaning the solenoid screen filters. I made a separate video for each of these as well. There are also multiple solenoids involved in the shifting process as you can imagine, so while replacing this pressure switch has fixed or at least improved many people’s shifting problems, sometimes it’s another component. The service manual says that shift solenoid valve C (which I replaced and didn’t fix anything for me) as well as A/T clutch pressure control solenoids valves A and B (the double solenoid on top of the transmission) are also probable causes of 3rd gear flaring and slipping. Many people have told me replacing the double solenoid has fixed their issues, except that part new is like $350. Hope this helps
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks man I’ll definitely look to clean the solenoid screen filter. Thanks again for this video with the easy steps and still replying even after I don’t know how many years you’ve made this video!
I have a 03 tl that wont engaged in gear sometimes you can feather reverse or first gear first started and try to go I can feather it but then after that it just rose up a high RPMs
Easiest thing to check is your transmission fluid. Make sure it is both clean, not dark or burnt smelling, and also make sure it isn’t over/underfilled. Otherwise do you have a check engine light code? You can also check out my solenoid screen filter video on my channel. Sometimes those little screens get clogged and need to be cleaned out. Maybe give that a try as well.
Mine won't go into 3rd at all... It does 1st & 2nd no problem, once I get up around 65mph it just doesn't shift??? To go into 3rd any insight/help on this is appreciated.
Do you have any check engine light codes? Three things I can recommend is to ensure your transmission fluid is red and clean, not dark brown, black, or burnt smelling. Also, check the ATF level isn't under/over-filled. I have another video on cleaning the transmission solenoid screen filters, give that a try. Lastly, try replacing the third gear pressure switch as shown in this video.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple man I went for a drive yesterday & when I put the car into drive or d5 instead of moving the shifter all the way over to d5 like where the plus and minus symbols are I just put it to d5 goin straight down instead of over & it shifted fine so I think I was just in the wrong gear 🤣 thanks man.
Is there a switch for 1 st gear? My car wont engage 1 st gear when i put it on drive but it will go into first gear if I manually shift it to 1 any ideas? No check engine light ir flashing D on dash
No, there's no first gear pressure switch. But there are 8 total various solenoids that play a role in shifting on this transmission, including these 2 pressure switches. I would first make sure your ATF is clean and not over/underfilled. You could also try cleaning the solenoid screen filters. And lastly, I might recommend checking the Ohm reading on all of the solenoids on your vehicle.
Do you have a check engine light code? I remember I had a similar issue where the catalytic converter heat shield fell off, pulled on the oxygen sensor cable and caused a fuse to blow. Don’t remember which fuse it was but maybe check your fuses, there’s a bunch of them unfortunately.
I don't have a check engine , I have to warm up the car to vehicle temp n then put in 5th to drive if I don't let it warm up it won't drive in 5th unless I put it in 2nd gear.
Hmmm are there any check engine light codes? I had a similar problem where my car would randomly change gears, and the solution to that was to clean the solenoid screen filters. I have another video on how to do that on my channel
@@HiddenLeaf979 I would recommend getting an OBD-II scanner, such as the Ancel AD310. Super convenient to have and will tell you what’s wrong with your car rather than going at this blindly
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple guy told me it may be the 4th pressure switch but yes I do need a obd scanner. It drives in 4th drive but once I hit 40-50 mph it high revs and goes to 3rd
I’m sorry you’re still having issues. Do you have any check engine light codes? Did any of this at least help for a little bit or not at all? And also did you use OEM Honda parts and fluid? Aftermarket stuff has been known to not work and cause other problems
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple the only code that pops up is P0730 and yeah I used all oem stuff shifting for all my other gears feels better but it’s just 3rd gear that it revs up a lot like nothing is happening
@@MexicanGamerDude I might recommend doing an ohm test on Shift Solenoids A, B, & C (12-25 ohms), as well as the AT Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valves A and B (dual solenoid on top, about 5 ohms). You could also do the simple click test where you connect the solenoids to some alligator clips and touch it to your car battery to see if they're functioning properly. See if anything is out of spec and replace as necessary.
The TCM monitors the pressure switches. It might be running well for now, but something must have happened since it triggered a CEL. If you haven't purchased or done anything to your vehicle, you could start by ensuring the ATF is clean and not under/overfilled. You could also check the terminal is connected correctly and not too dirty or corroded. Otherwise, your 3rd clutch pressure switch might need replacing.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome. I have a 2002 that keeps stalling. I ran into your video while I was looking for a solution. The car will just stall in motion or sometimes not start. I have a error code p1740. Any suggestion please will help. Thxs
How you guys afford to pay 60-100$ per switch with HONDA is beyond me,esp when the tran is LOADED with switches,solenoids,sensors etc some of which are 500- ...
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple the ones that got the mini metal cans on the ends have actual slide function inside,DO NOT BUY CHEAP ONES ,standard brand at the least,they have Chinese made ones but I wouldnt
I just have to say thank you so much everybody told me the transmission was blown and that I just wasted $500 and I did the switches I did the filter 3 quart drain and fill and I’m gonna do probably two more eventually so it’s nice and red but she’s shifting she’s running going into every gear no problem no big clunk either! Do you, sir are a saint and I will tell every single person who has any Honda transmission problems about this channel!
I'm a bit late to respond, but that's amazing to hear! I remember transmission shops telling me the same thing. They don't diagnose transmissions, they only replace them. Thank you for watching and sharing my channel!
My transmission started having issues last month and so far I have changed the fluid and the filter which has helped significantly. I am still have problems going from 2nd to 3rd occasionally so tomorrow I will clean the solenoid screens, if that doesn't help, I will replace the 3rd gear switch. Hopefully one of those fixes works. Your videos have been very helpful so THANK YOU.
Glad to hear there has been some improvement! Sometimes a second ATF drain and fill may be necessary if the fluid was dirty enough. But yes, clean those screen filters, and see what happens next. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I know this was over a year ago but mine started to slip etc did yours get fixed?
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplehey I have a question for you. I have talked to you before. I have a 2001 3.2 CL type S and its getting back into transmission behavior and it really started yesterday when it's super hot outside. I live in the deep south. But I'm wanting to try and change the transmission cooler but it's not the radiator style it's the canister type thats on top of the tranny. I'm trying to find out if this is a recall changed part. Because I can't find a radiator style anywhere on it. And I've only seen 1 video where a guy was changing on the exact same engine. Any help ?? TIA
@@darrinwatts9979 Looks like the only recalls for your vehicle are the 2nd gear Oil Jet recall on the original transmission, and the 2 airbag recalls. There is no external radiator ATF cooler on these cars otherwise. It certainly wouldn't hurt to add one! Otherwise, make sure you're regularly changing the ATF every 15k miles and coolant every 60k miles/60 months to ensure proper lubrication and cooling properties.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple ok thank you and ..... what is the part # of the one on top of the transmission the cannister type ?? Do you think you could find out ? It's aluminum looking and I can't find out how/where to order it
Hey man thank you so much. Your old videos are helping me a ton and I cant believe you just posted this. Thanks.
Jason Tyo you are very welcome! I’m glad to know these videos have been helpful!!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Ive got an '02 TL-S I do not want to get rid of.
These cars are forgotten hidden gems of early 00's Honda. My trans just started acting up, I hope I caught it before anything catastrophic happened.
Jason Tyo I hope so too! Keeping the transmission fluid clean is probably the most important thing to keep these cars running!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple So we changed the Filter and ATF and it came right back!. The Car is working again. I bet the fluid that came was out from the factory. Thanks again.
Jason Tyo that’s awesome! Good thing you acted quickly, I’m sure your car will be fine and last many more miles to come!
Hello,this past summer I had my rear chassis replaced on my 2002 Acura tl type s. (like yours)When I got it back I started getting the D5 blinking on my dash!!!😫😫😫 The vehicle wouldn't shift into overdrive on freeways!! Smh..I never had any problems with the transmission in the 4+years I've had the car!!! I changed solenoids B&C and still have the same problem!!! I check on the Acura forum and read that I needed to change the transmission temperature sensor!! I ordered it today and saw you're video changing the mounts!!! I'll do the same!! Keep up the good work!!👍👍👍
That sounds like a headache! Good for you for doing a great job maintaining your car and keeping her running! Thanks for watching my videos and glad they have been helpful!
Flare shifting/ slipping between gears can be greatly improved by replacing these pressure switches!
Thank you again for the awesome video, I bought my 02 TL-S at 115k back in 2007 and got a new transmission for $500 thru an Acura mechanic friend of my mom, ever since then I've been doing 3x3 drain & fill for ATF and still doing smooth. I'm currently on 237k with the original engine and that transmission I got after the vehicle purchase. so I'd say that transmission's been on its 120k miles with no major tune up other than ATF replacement. a couple of things to point out is that I did my very first transmission filter replacement at 237k so I guess I've been lucked out by clean ATF I've been maintaining? and also I didn't see any external oil-jet kit installed on where ATF filler bolt's located, I saw some people saying that they switched to the internal jet-kit but mine was replaced in 2007 so I don't know if they just didn't install that or it has an internal one. I might revisit this video in case I notice some slippery on either 3rd or 4th gear, but I just wanted to share my experience with you since you're pretty big on maintaining your transmission :) I mean I guess every 2nd gen owner should be haha.
thank you! Yeah i guarantee most transmission failures on these cars were due to not changing the ATF enough. I've had so many commenters with car problems tell me their fluid is black or the level is low. Any transmission made after 2005 I believe has an internal oil jet, and all the others have the external recall. Keep up the great work with your car!
instablaster
I replaced everything you did, fluid aswell, drove A bit better, still the same problem, transmission needs a new, or rebuild. thats what i did this month nice like new.
WHAT A GREAT VIDEO!!! IT WORKS!!! DID THE SAME THING AND I CANT BELIEVE IT!!!!
That’s awesome to hear! Glad my video helped you!!!
I appreciate how helpful and informative your videos are.
Thank you! I’m glad they have been helpful!
I've done a drain and fill with the filter, cleaned all 4 solenoid screens, and replaced the 3rd gear pressure switch. The trans is still slipping; anything else to try besides another drain and fill and the 4th gear switch?
This is very helpful I need to change out my 3rd and 4th solenoid one of these days
it could very well be worth it as these parts do wear out over time!
Very helpful, slight confused. if my CL is an 03 and it's my 2nd gear that is slipping, do I still get the 2nd gear for the 99 TL?
The 1999 vehicles have a 4 speed transmission, which have a 2nd and 3rd gear pressure switch. The 2000 and newer vehicles have a 5 speed transmission and only have a 3rd and 4th gear pressure switch. So no, the 2003 CL does not have a second gear pressure switch. Perhaps check out my solenoid screen cleaning video and ensure those little filters aren’t clogged. Also check the condition and level of your transmission fluid, it should not be dark or smell burnt, and the level should be between the 2 dots on the dipstick. Do a 3 quart drain and fill using Honda DW-1 ATF if you haven’t changed the fluid in a while. If that all checks out, your last bet would probably be the shift solenoid valves. Try the other things first and come back if you still need help!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple amazing my brother! Thank you!!!
Just bought an 03 TL type s with 99k miles. One owner and they maintained it at the dealer. No check engine light but trans sometimes slips when stopping and is trying to go back into 1st. Sometimes it’ll slip when going from 1st to 2nd and sometimes a delay from 2nd to 3rd. Trans fluid was clean when I got it. Did a drain and fill with OEM fluid and replaced filter as well. Cleaned filters on the larger solenoids that I got from your other video (thanks for that). Do you think changing these two solenoids will make a difference? Any other suggestions?
Congrats on the new car! You're off to a great start with maintaining your vehicle. 2nd to 3rd delay is normal on these cars, unfortunately. But there's still a good chance you could benefit from replacing the 3rd gear Oil Pressure switch as many other people have. My car also sometimes slips going back into 1st, but only when the transmission is cold. Slipping from 1st to 2nd is more uncommon. I would ensure that the transmission fluid is at the proper level th-cam.com/video/SjYVD2WCrCM/w-d-xo.html
Also, if you did find gunk in the solenoid screens, as odd as it may sound there is a chance they may need to be cleaned again. Good luck!
Hello, I’m having problems with my 1-2 gear now with 2003 Acura TL type S.
So rewind one day 2 weeks ago my tranny almost locked up when I went from breaking at 40MPH to just touching the gas pedal. Nose of car dived down for a second and after that 3-4th gear where delayed a lot with very hard shift and other gears where also funky . No codes ever showed up. I did an immediate drain and fill and AT filter change which pretty much brought it back to life. ATF was pretty blackened/dark grey and hard a slight burnt smell, lots of grey Sludge on drain plug. However there was still a sputter from 3-4th gear and I tried driving a tad hard and it would be worse but intermittently and if I did it just right it would be a perfect shift with no stutter, could be engine mounts. When I switched it into manual shifting it clunked for a second. So I found your prior video last week Monday and cleaned the solenoid screens. Which helped out a lot with all shifts but made 1-2 gear shift pretty hard when cold, bottom single solenoid screen was clogged and the center pillar screen was slightly clogged on A/B, I could do a few higher RPM pulls with a slight stutter from 3-4, I figured it was the engine mounts and yes they where absolutely shot, so I was able to replace the front and side the other day which helped quite a bit, and will replace the two transmission mounts soon, and pay someone to do the rear engine mount.
After the solenoid screen cleaning, 1-2 gear has been hard. This morning coming out of my driveway the car would not shift from 1-2then shifted pretty hard, I then got a check engine light, flashing D5 and VSA stayed on, car would not shift or move at all. After turning the car off and on, it went away except the check engine light, it was able to shift like it did before, I’m sure it would be better once warmed up.
So, is there a 1-2 gear pressure switch? And 3-4th? My 4-5th shift seem pretty good. However I’m unaware what to do next. I will be pulling the codes later today.
Side note, sometimes doing a higher RPM pull would cause the rpm to shoot up 500rpms going from 3-4th but shift into gear perfectly, could be engine mount since it was before I did those. Also I possibly damaged the top solenoid while taking it off, it was stuck and I tried prying it with a screw driver and bent the A/B solenoid housing (closest one to the front of the car) about an 1/8in maybe 1/4in. I did shift it back into place. Maybe it’s sticking now and if that’s the one that controls 1-2 gear it could be that.
Edit; just pulled the codes, got P1750 as the only one.
Thank you.
Yah you definitely damaged the solenoid. That code is saying it needs to be replaced. Make sure you get a Genuine Honda part, aftermarket ones have been know to give people problems. Part number is 28250-P6H-024. You can get a used one on eBay for $40-60 or a brand new one for $350.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yeah, I actually just replaced it yesterday and 1-2 gear shifts butter smooth.
The RPMs from 2-3 still jump 200-300 then shifts a bit aggressive but smoother. And 4-3 is clunky.
Literally just finished replacing the 3rd and 4th pressure switch.
It did not fix it and I found black partials in the A/T dip stick. Seems like it’s probably the 3-4th gear clutch pack unfortunately.
It could be the speed sensor or the power solenoids.
I’ll be replacing 28500-P6H-013 and 28400-P6H-013 on the top near A/B solenoid. I will let you know if that fixed the RPMs jumping on 3rd. I posted a video on my account if you need to see the current problem.
Thank you for your videos they are amazing quality and detailed.
How did it go ? Did you ever get it to work
When i search through acura parts for less i get 28600-p7w-013 instead of - 003. I have exact same car as you. Do you know if it's the same 4th gear switch? Just with a different last three numbers? Thanks
looks like -013 is the newer part that replaces the old -003. I might have copied the wrong number in the description. also the 3rd and 4th gear switches are not the same part.
I have a 2002 TL with a 2008 TL tranny that was put in by the Acura dealer about 15 years ago, and it worked beautifully all these years. But recently, I thought that the transmission went out.
About 9 months ago, I was driving down the highway, and the transmission just slipped out of gear. I pushed the accelerator down, and it just acted like it was in neutral. The engine just revved. So I figured it might be just that one gear. So I shifted down. It was in gear for 5 to 10 seconds, and then slipped. I kept downshifting thinking it might just be certain gears. But all of the gears seemed to be having issues.
I was able to get it off the highway. I did have to stop at a light, and then I was able to drive the car a little bit more. But when I had to go up a hill, it started slipping a lot. So I just pulled over and had it towed.
It’s been sitting for the past 9 months. I recently revived it, bc I was going to sell it. But in the process of getting it ready for sale, I just thought I would try driving it up and down the driveway.
I was able to drive it up and down the driveway about 10 times before it started slipping (maybe it slips when it heats up?).
So based on what I just said, do you think it’s possible that I can just change the ATF and filter, and have the car start working again like others in the comments have done?
Or do you think it needs a solenoid? If so, which one?
I have never changed the transmission fluid since I bought the car in 2007 with 60k miles on it. It now has 161k miles on it.
Btw, I did smell the transmission fluid right after the slipping event, and it did smell burnt.
My mechanic said he had a customer who changed their transmission fluid, and the transmission died a week later, bc he had not changed the transmission fluid in a long time. But I think he had a ATF flush done as well. So maybe the pressure from the flush caused the tranny to go kaput. That’s why I never changed the ATF when it was still working, bc I had not changed it since I bought the car.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
FYI, the check engine light is not on
So it’s definitely a scam for any mechanic or dealership to try and scare you into not changing the ATF or saying it’s a “lifetime fluid”. A flush will definitely make it worse, but drain and fills are fine. You should definitely change the ATF right away, and yes, there’s a very good chance it could revive your transmission. I would even recommend doing 2 or even 3 drain-and-fills for that matter because of how bad the fluid is. I would recommend driving the car a few hundred miles or at least as much as possible in between changes though. Cleaning the solenoid screen filters has been a big resolution for these cars as well. I made a separate video for the solenoid screen filters and the ATF on my channel if you want to check those out!
Thanks for the video I am getting ready to purchase a 2003 to type s and the seller states that it has an transmission problem
Good luck! A lot of problems certainly can be fixed by simply replacing a few solenoids as opposed to rebuilding or replacing the transmission!
What would you recommend the trans bogging on D5? 4th gear is solid on the slab stick but when on 5th gear under 45mph start bogging sometimes
It could be a list of problems that unfortunately is hard to diagnose without being there and knowing the history of the vehicle. Does it have a CEL? You could check the basics including the air filter, spark plugs, and transmission fluid. Otherwise, you shouldn’t be driving in 5th gear below 45mph anyways, so a simple solution would be to put the gear selector in D4 for city driving, and put it in D5 for 45+
Hey man I need help, I have a 02 Acura TL type s, my transmission goes thru every gear when driving, but when I give full throttle it just won’t go to the next year like it will stay stuck so like it’s like slipping when I give full throttle, and then also noticed I’ve lost power
Kinda hard to say without being there in person. I always recommend starting with ensuring the ATF is clean and not over/underfilled. Also, do you have any check engine light codes?
Is this the same at the 2001 honda accord v6 automatic. Idk where mine are located
Recently bought a 183K 2003 Acura tl and the engine purrs but the transmission seems to be iffy. As a broke college kid and someone who knows what a transmission should be like this seems like a way better replacement than completely rebuilding the transmission. The only thing being every 15k miles as a person who isn't mechanically inclined would end up being expensive so looks like I gotta learn haha.
It has intermittent problems with 2 to 3 and 3to 4 and has a really really hard time when it's first started up after sitting awhile. Those both sound like A. Electrical problems and B. Pressure problems
So hopefully after a bit of saving I can start work :)
The fluid changes are super easy and you can certainly save a lot of money doing it yourself! I have a video on replacing the ATF on my channel if you haven’t seen that already. And by the sounds of it with you having gear specific problems, this certainly sounds like a solution for you. Hope this works and thanks for watching!
Hey man I have same car as you but when I go to D5 it sometimes moves and sometimes it doesn’t move at all?
Is this the same for the CL?
Would it be possible to pick one up at an Auto Zone?
Yes, it's the same parts and process. Our cars have practically the same transmission. You could get one at AutoZone, but you'll still be paying about the same amount of money, I'd rather get the OEM part from Honda.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you. Yeah I checked, and, same price, same thing, just made with cheaper parts. I think this is specifically what's wrong with my car. Then again, my fluid is overfilled, I checked it. I am going to jusr change it with the Honda stuff. Do you think the transmission might be hurt if I drove it around too long with it messed up like this? I was thinking of when I change it with the Honda fluid to add some Lucas oil, do you think that's a good idea or a bad idea?
@@georgejohnson445 if the fluid is overfilled, it can increase the pressure inside the transmission and mess us seals, gaskets, and more. I also would not recommend the lucas, because that fluid is so thick, and one of the problems with these transmissions are the numerous tiny screen filters that already have a problem clogging up.
Hey i see you on acurazine all the time ur really smart with this car i was thinking of buying a duralast transmission oil pressure switch is tht a good idea
Thank you! I would be cautious about buying aftermarket solenoids. I have heard some people claim their transmission performed worse or not at all after replacing solenoids with an aftermarket one. Browse a few different Acura parts websites since pricing and shipping can vary greatly from one to another. I've had good luck with factoryacuraparts.com recently.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple good to know ive did everything except the switches the 3x3 helped alot and changing filter
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple how long was shipping for u?
@@backnd_2329 on average when ordering from any of these Acura parts websites, you can expect to receive your parts in about 5-6 days on average after ordering them using the lowest cost shipping option.
My Acura TL not engage in Reverse, any sugestion 😢
I had check engine light and TCS light come on 01 Acura TL 171000 miles Code reading P0730 P0740 need help haven't replaced any of the pressure switches yet did do the 3 transmission quarts in and out and replace the transmission filter dual linear solenoid cleaned n put back n the other did the same I don't know what else to do
is your car giving you noticeable shiting problems? Sometimes these codes won't go away on their own and need to be reset manually.
Mine was having issues with the d5 flashing an it started to slip an it would high rev then shift hard and it also shut itself off when I came to a stop I had changed the transmission fluid an then had it flushed some people say about the solenoids but I tried to change them an the dealership said not to cuz of being pressurized I’m new to all this was hoping maybe you would have an answer of what maybe I could do to get driving again it will drive alittle bit after sitting awhile when I put it in gear I can hear the transmission or engine something making a lot of noise idk what that means thanks in advanced
Do you have a check engine light code? Could be a lot of things. Easiest thing to ensure is that you’re using Honda DW-1 and not aftermarket fluid. Also ensure the ATF isn’t under/overfilled. Next I would check out my solenoid screen filter video and give that a try, it’s helped thousands of people!
Thank you man this helped me out a lot
I’m glad my video could be helpful! Thanks for watching!
Is there a compatible trans fluid that’s not Honda? I’m buying a 02CL-S with trans problems and I want to drain and fill it right there then do the filter with Honda
I’ve heard of some people using Valvoline maxlife, but personally as someone with 338,000 original miles of their transmission, I recommend the OEM Honda DW-1. You can buy a box of 12 quarts on Amazon for $108
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thank you this cl has 150 on the clock and I’m hoping to catch up to you some day lol
Is that the location location on of the 2002 ACURA MDX ATF SENSOR?
The MDX has the same layout as my TL. The ATF sensor is located right next to these sensors and is difficult to replace
Do you know what would cause a PO 730, Incorrect gear ratio… Does that mean the transmission is bad? Could it be the third selenide?
It’s either the A/T clutch pressure control solenoids located on the top driver side of the transmission, and/or the shift solenoid valves. 2 of them are located on the front passenger side of the transmission and one on the top passenger side. Firstly, check your transmission fluid to make sure it’s not dirty or under/overfilled. Next I would do an ohm test on each of the solenoids. The driver side ones should be 5 ohms, and the passenger side ones 12-25 ohms.
Of course, these are the potential fixes for a Honda/Acura with P0730. If you have a different make of vehicle it could be completely different.
It only does it when I’m on my way home in stop and go traffic, and strangely only does it on certain roads it will start. It will go from 1 to 2 OK but sometimes it will slip as it tries to go into third. And when it’s really bad I’ll be going about 40 miles an hour and it will try to downshift into second. I noticed if I slap it into neutral when I come to a stop at red lights or in traffic and let it idle in neutral for a little bit it doesn’t seem to do it as bad. On the way into work it’s smooth sailing then again I’m going highway speeds almost the whole time.
Thank you for that video I watch the video cleaning the screens and I dug out the battery and the air box and took the top one off those screens were fairly clean the one below it, was a little dirty so I cleaned it I ohm tested all three solenoids and all of them are over five. The bottom one was reading about 5.2, but I tested it both ways positive negative navigate if I’m positive and it was 5.2 both ways the ones on the top for 5.2 one-way and zero the other way does that make sense? Anyway I change the transmission fluid and change the filter right after it started doing it a few months ago. This thing is driving me crazy! Lol
The transmission only seems slightly overfilled? And I replaced a quart with the Lucas anti-slip stuff. But doesn’t seem to make much of a difference.
Thanks again for your timely reply and your videos, and helping folks out
@@weebleslove469 I don't know why it would only get an ohm reading one way, but I would say it passed that test. If it's an option I would drain a little bit of fluid so it's not over the max fill line. Just make sure the vehicle is warmed up, engine off, and parked on a level surface when checking the dipstick. If cleaning the screen filters and changing the transmission fluid hasn't helped, I might recommend replacing the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid with the 3 screen filters located on the top driver side of the transmission. Despite passing the ohm test, over time these solenoids can go bad. Perhaps they simply get sluggish or the piston loses its full range of motion, but I have received numerous testimonies that replacing it has fixed their transmission issues. Just make sure you get an OEM part as the aftermarket ones tend to cause problems as well. If you're looking for a band-aid fix, you can get a cheap used one on eBay or from a junkyard for about $50. Otherwise, if you're planning on keeping this vehicle for a long time still, I would get a new one. $360 is a lot but worth it.
Are they the same switch.. what if I get them mixed up
They have different electric connectors, therefore they are different parts with different part numbers that you cannot get mixed up
I have honda civic fd 2.0... Aotumatic trans... For a cold start, I had to heat the car for 20 minutes..if not, shift from P to D would make the shift jerk.. Please tell me what would cause this?
Assuming you don’t have any check engine lights, you could firstly ensure that your ATF is clean and red, not dark, brown, black, or burnt smelling. Also make sure the ATF is not over/underfilled. and be sure to use Honda DW-1 fluid! Aftermarket fluids can cause harder shifting
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I only use genuine honda ATF DW-1. No engine light comes out.. If it does, what would it means?
@@macej8696 it would mean something is abnormal with the car. You can look these engine codes up online and they’ll give you more specific information on what the code means and how to fix it. Sometimes it’s as simple as adding or changing the fluid.
How long did it take to fix the gear slipping after you changed the pressure switch?
The effects were noticeable immediately!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple oh I guess it didn’t work for me :( I had the same issue as you with the 3rd gear slipping no check engine. Just replaced it now and it still slips…
@@maximebolduc6499 I’m sorry this didn’t work for you. Perhaps a couple other things you could try is ensuring your ATF is clean and not under/overfilled, and also try cleaning the solenoid screen filters. I made a separate video for each of these as well. There are also multiple solenoids involved in the shifting process as you can imagine, so while replacing this pressure switch has fixed or at least improved many people’s shifting problems, sometimes it’s another component. The service manual says that shift solenoid valve C (which I replaced and didn’t fix anything for me) as well as A/T clutch pressure control solenoids valves A and B (the double solenoid on top of the transmission) are also probable causes of 3rd gear flaring and slipping. Many people have told me replacing the double solenoid has fixed their issues, except that part new is like $350. Hope this helps
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks man I’ll definitely look to clean the solenoid screen filter. Thanks again for this video with the easy steps and still replying even after I don’t know how many years you’ve made this video!
@@maximebolduc6499 you’re very welcome! Best of luck to you!
Thank you for the video
you're very welcome and thanks for watching!
Hey how do you check the "check engine" error codes? Do they show up on the dashboard?
You’ll need an OBD-II scanner. Go to my channel and you’ll find my other video on how to use this simple tool!
I have a 03 tl that wont engaged in gear sometimes you can feather reverse or first gear first started and try to go I can feather it but then after that it just rose up a high RPMs
Easiest thing to check is your transmission fluid. Make sure it is both clean, not dark or burnt smelling, and also make sure it isn’t over/underfilled. Otherwise do you have a check engine light code? You can also check out my solenoid screen filter video on my channel. Sometimes those little screens get clogged and need to be cleaned out. Maybe give that a try as well.
Mine won't go into 3rd at all... It does 1st & 2nd no problem, once I get up around 65mph it just doesn't shift??? To go into 3rd any insight/help on this is appreciated.
Do you have any check engine light codes? Three things I can recommend is to ensure your transmission fluid is red and clean, not dark brown, black, or burnt smelling. Also, check the ATF level isn't under/over-filled. I have another video on cleaning the transmission solenoid screen filters, give that a try. Lastly, try replacing the third gear pressure switch as shown in this video.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple man I went for a drive yesterday & when I put the car into drive or d5 instead of moving the shifter all the way over to d5 like where the plus and minus symbols are I just put it to d5 goin straight down instead of over & it shifted fine so I think I was just in the wrong gear 🤣 thanks man.
@@tyrellhines2572 whoops! Haha glad to hear everything’s working okay!
I stalled my car like that when I first got it lol. Good ole manual mode
Is there a switch for 1 st gear? My car wont engage 1 st gear when i put it on drive but it will go into first gear if I manually shift it to 1 any ideas? No check engine light ir flashing D on dash
No, there's no first gear pressure switch. But there are 8 total various solenoids that play a role in shifting on this transmission, including these 2 pressure switches. I would first make sure your ATF is clean and not over/underfilled. You could also try cleaning the solenoid screen filters. And lastly, I might recommend checking the Ohm reading on all of the solenoids on your vehicle.
Hey my Acura cl 2003 is slipping gears , it don't drive on 5 the gear but it was works on 2 an that's it what should I do
Do you have a check engine light code? I remember I had a similar issue where the catalytic converter heat shield fell off, pulled on the oxygen sensor cable and caused a fuse to blow. Don’t remember which fuse it was but maybe check your fuses, there’s a bunch of them unfortunately.
I don't have a check engine , I have to warm up the car to vehicle temp n then put in 5th to drive if I don't let it warm up it won't drive in 5th unless I put it in 2nd gear.
Nice video. Thanks.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Is it possible my 4th gear pressure switch on tranny is bad ? It goes in 4th drive on automatic but goes down to 3rd after 40 to 50mph
Hmmm are there any check engine light codes? I had a similar problem where my car would randomly change gears, and the solution to that was to clean the solenoid screen filters. I have another video on how to do that on my channel
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yes engine light. But the car has no tags or nothing so I can't drive it to get the computer red
@@HiddenLeaf979 I would recommend getting an OBD-II scanner, such as the Ancel AD310. Super convenient to have and will tell you what’s wrong with your car rather than going at this blindly
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple guy told me it may be the 4th pressure switch but yes I do need a obd scanner. It drives in 4th drive but once I hit 40-50 mph it high revs and goes to 3rd
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple once I hit 40-50 it bounces from 4th to 3rd. Like it wants to stay in 4th
Damn I changed this, clean the solenoid filter screens and replaced the transmission filter and fluid and it still won’t shift into 3rd
I’m sorry you’re still having issues. Do you have any check engine light codes? Did any of this at least help for a little bit or not at all? And also did you use OEM Honda parts and fluid? Aftermarket stuff has been known to not work and cause other problems
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple the only code that pops up is P0730 and yeah I used all oem stuff shifting for all my other gears feels better but it’s just 3rd gear that it revs up a lot like nothing is happening
@@MexicanGamerDude I might recommend doing an ohm test on Shift Solenoids A, B, & C (12-25 ohms), as well as the AT Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valves A and B (dual solenoid on top, about 5 ohms). You could also do the simple click test where you connect the solenoids to some alligator clips and touch it to your car battery to see if they're functioning properly. See if anything is out of spec and replace as necessary.
I have the code P1739 for this same car but the transmission works perfectly, the code also says "A/T TCM driver circuit" can anybody help me? 😔
The TCM monitors the pressure switches. It might be running well for now, but something must have happened since it triggered a CEL. If you haven't purchased or done anything to your vehicle, you could start by ensuring the ATF is clean and not under/overfilled. You could also check the terminal is connected correctly and not too dirty or corroded. Otherwise, your 3rd clutch pressure switch might need replacing.
are you selling the tl ?
Nope sorry, she’s my baby and I plan on driving this car for a long time!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome. I have a 2002 that keeps stalling. I ran into your video while I was looking for a solution. The car will just stall in motion or sometimes not start. I have a error code p1740. Any suggestion please will help. Thxs
Wondering if this is a Honda Accord or Acura TL. Definitely not a Toyota.
I have a 2002 Acura TL-S, although this could apply to many other Honda’s and Acura’s. Thanks for watching
How you guys afford to pay 60-100$ per switch with HONDA is beyond me,esp when the tran is LOADED with switches,solenoids,sensors etc some of which are 500- ...
That’s why I try to make videos like these, so you know which of the many switches you need to replace.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple the ones that got the mini metal cans on the ends have actual slide function inside,DO NOT BUY CHEAP ONES ,standard brand at the least,they have Chinese made ones but I wouldnt