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Platter With Yorkshire Grit Review - Wood Turning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2018
- Maple Platter with my impressions using Yorkshire Grit for the first time. You can obtain Yorkshire Grit here:
UK Site: yorkshire-grit.com/uk-purchase...
US Site: www.thewalnutlog.com/yorkshire-3/
My Shop Page:
/ phils-woodshop-1470648...
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Phil!!!
Love this video! Appreciate the humor and honesty in your videos.
Cool, thank you, Nicole! 😊
Thank You Phil...good assessment of Yorkshire Grit...Always a pleasure to watch...You get me fired up to work in my garage on my relaxing day off...tm
And thank you, Jeff, for your great comment! I watch videos for the same reason. So many talented, inventive people out there giving ideas and solutions, get's me fired up, too!
Phil
Stunning platter, the grain fairly pops out and looks beautiful. Brilliant work Phil. I also never use any sanding sealer prior to the YG. It always produces a fine, scratch free finish.
So thankful for an honest opinion. You've won a fan.
😊
Nice looking platter. Enjoyed hearing your experience with Yorkshire grit as I haven’t used it yet. I have been curious about it but just haven’t gotten around to ordering it. Great job!
Phil, thank for the video as a new wood turner I am learning at ever turn.
So good to hear, Robert! I learned to turn from watching TH-cam videos and it really helped!
Phil
I too have seen a lot of TH-cam videos using Yorkshire grit, but they were all dealing with epoxy resin and wood turnings. It does wonders getting out the scratches on epoxy. I might have to get some to try on my projects. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for taking your time to watch and comment, AK!
The maple has wonderful grain
and that finish really brings it out. Great job Phil!
I am wore out we are home now. Wow did I see some great trees. To bad They were at national monuments. I messed up my scheduled auto load so I did it manually today. A wonderful maple burl.
Looking forward to your next video.
Gary
Thanks, Gary and welcome back home! It's always fun to get out on the road but nothing compares to getting back home.
I'll be checking out your newest video, soon!
Phil
Beautiful work. I really like your presentation style on the videos and especially your running commentary. I too have tried the Yorkshire Grit, following instructions, and then resorted to my own method, exactly like you did, and with the same result. I now consider it a final "semi-liquid" sandpaper on the raw wood. It does bring up a very, very smooth surface for my final finish of 1:1 shellac:alcohol buffed out with MicroMesh 9-grits. Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much, Bill! Your method of finishing sounds like it would work great. I might try the YG to rub out the last coat of shellac. That might work even though that's not what it is meant to do. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Phil
Very nice and quite timely! I'm working up a 14" x 4" slab of Nordic maple crotch for a platter and this video has helped tremendously! The tree was in tbe backyard neighbour's yard just behind the garage/shop. Love the chatoiance (spelling? it's french) in maple. Keep that lovely wood spinning!
Thank you, Dave! Love to see a pic of the platter when you get it done. Yes, I do remember this platter had quite a bit of chatoyance going on. Sometimes ya just get lucky!
Phil
Beautiful piece of maple. I'm considering Yorkshire grit so your experience and review is very helpful to me. I have many sugar maple blanks. I hope they are as beautiful as yours.
Glad it was helpful, Paul! Thank you for watching!
I love the platter...it is so gorgeous! I always apply my Yorkshire Grit directly to the piece after sanding...no sanding sealer first...and it turns out beautiful.
Thank you, Carol! Yes, I've seen turners apply it directly to the wood and of course, I love that idea. Anything to save time and effort. Next time, I will use more of it and see how that goes. Thank you for your comment!
Phil
Absolutely love it! I've watched many different people working with Yorkshire Grit and they all apply it directly to the wood. Thought I'll just mention that. Big hugs
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Excellent work Phil. Very nice piece indeed!
Thank you very much, Jim, truly appreciated!
Phil
Good evening, Phil. I like your platter. I haven't used the Yorkshire Grit product. Your design and wood grain make for a beautiful piece.
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Another inspiring idea. I really like the platter shape! I use a home made beeswax grit occasionally. I started back turning on a pretty restricted budget, so I had been looking for ways to save a buck, and I just stuck with home brew!
Cheers, have a nice day Phil, Rick
😊
Phil the grain in this wood is breathtakingly stunning, it looks like there is a fire in the wood. I think they call it chatoyance it is awesome.
Chatoyance in this piece for sure, Kobie! Just a magnificent piece of wood. Glad you thought so, too!
Phil
Hey Phil,
Very beautiful result. The chatoyancy is gorgeous!
I always use the grit directly on the sanded wood (240) and am really happy with the results I get.
Keep it up! 😃
Regards
Lars
Thank you, Lars! I think I didn't use enough YG to get the job done. I will definitely be trying it again.
Phil
Beautiful platter, Phil. Love the wood grain. 😎❤🙃
Thanks, Dotty! 😊
My first impression of Yorkshire Grit was that I like EEE Ultra Shine a little better. I like using either on the bare wood better, and then putting on a finish. But I am so new at all this I am learning a lot from all of your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the info, Mike. I've been wanting to try the EEE. I'm pretty new, too, so we can learn together!
Phil
When I was younger I never knew what my grandpa and my dad meant with this saying “Son, if it not broke, then don’t fix it.” I always thought it was about doing something to a vehicle, or maybe something to my house. As the yrs licked off, and I got to be a little wiser, I finally got it one summer when some new wax for your so called “ Best wax ever” was put out that yr. Just as you quoted, you weren’t very impressed, and you said you could have done just as good or better with what you have been using with your preference. Well, I’m sure you know where I’m going with this, and I replied with the utmost respect. You know I keep up with you work and I have learned some things from you. I was kinda meaning to make a little humor out of this post. Anyway, as usual, a beautiful piece and trust your heart and go with what you know. 😊😊😊
That advice has been good advice for a very long time. Some of us are a little slower to take it for the good advice it is but sooner or later, we get it. I'm glad you like this piece, thank you for watching and commenting! 😊
Nice job Phil. As a new turner, I appreciated hearing your experience with YG. I have the Rikon 10-326 bandsaw you mentioned. It's my first bandsaw but have had it a year and really like it. Don't think you can go wrong with it.
Good to know your experience with the Rikon, Aaron! It certainly seems to have the most bang for the buck. As for the Yorkshire Grit, I think I didn't use enough of it and will give it another try in a future video.
Thank you for taking your time to watch and comment, much appreciated!
Phil
Great looking platter Phil
Thanks, Bobby! 😊
I enjoy watch you taking off taking off the tenon. I keep my finger raised up and try to beat you by dropping my finger before you turn off the switch. (I have a good average by the way). Your work is beautiful and great to watch. I am not able use the lathe at this time so I watch videos in the meantime and vicariously insert myself. Keep it up.
HA! I love that, Harry! Playing a game as you watch is very cool. Glad your average is good! Sorry you are off the lathe for awhile but hopefully not long. Thank you for passing the time by watching and commenting on my videos, truly appreciated!
Phil
Thanks for your review, or use of the Yorkshire grit. Seeing it all the time with other woodturners and thought I really need to get that. Well I'm glad I saw your video. Not saying that stuff isn't good, just not worried about pushing to get it right now. Thanks again and great platter. Going to try one soon myself.
Best of luck with yours, Alex!
Hi Alex I was thinking the same, I’ve used pumice and rottenstone to flatten out a finish on a table done with a true varnish finish.
Phil it looks like velvet it is stunning.
Once again, fabulous 🥰🇬🇧
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Excellent piece. I agree that your usual finish is better, it always looks flawless and very tactile. My absolute favourites are the pieces using sanding sealer and shellac.
Awesome, thank you, Tracy! 😊
Very nice platter! Love the grain!
Me too! Thank you, Stephen!
Phil I have been asking some questions because I am starting this work. As soon as I finish assembling my lathe I will start doing some parts. A hug.
I would like to see what you turn, Alcino.
Phil
beautiful grain in that, love it , nice work
I'm really glad you like it, phantm24! Thank you!
Phil
Hi Phil,
I too am the sole worker in my shop and have the same problem as you! LOL
Never tried Yorkshire Grit but have made some from a recipe by Daniel Vilarino.
I like it as long as I'm going to use a carnauba wax finish buffed out with tripoli,white diamond and then the carnauba wax.
I've tried all sorts of different type of finishes and found that what works for others doesn't really work for me.
I think the type and results of finishes we use depends solely on what we expect our pieces to look like.I've seen people post photos of their finished work that still have tool marks int hem and they are overjoyed with their results.
Although I haven't achieved it yet,I strive for as perfect finish as I can get.
Your platter is beautiful and the grain is amazing! Great work!!!
Thanks for the video,,,
Tom
Hahaha... I guess I'm not alone in having gremlins in the shop. I WILL get to the bottom of it!
I agree, I've seen so many others using finishes that I just can't make work. Shellac has been my most successful and I'll probably stick with that, though I am going to give the Yorkshire Grit another try. Maybe I didn't use enough of it.
Thank you so much, Tom, for watching and your great comment!
Phil
madronawoodworks
My invisible helper lost a small template on me today.I scolded him sternly and made another template! LOL
If shellac works for you Phil,,,,buy a barrel of it and go for it!!!
Tom
I have the 10 324 and love it!! Lots of power gear re saw depth
Really good to hear this, Eric! Thank you!
Phil
Beautiful platter Phil, terrific grain. I use Yorkshire Grit occasionally and follow it with microcrystalline wax. Gives a good finish but whether it is better than your usual - who knows,. Excellent work. David
Thank you, David! It's good to know what works and what doesn't. I will definitely be trying YG again!
Looks fabulous!
Thank you, Jonathan!
Phil, I have the Rikon 14" 10-326 bandsaw and love it. Now, I don't cut anything huge but I've used it for resawing mahogany and cherry, for various curve cuts and for prepping turning blanks. I processed a 50', two-trunk pacific madrone into turning blanks with it and it worked like a champ. I think what you're considering is a heftier unit but between this Rikon saw and my SawStop I can do anything I'm likely do want to do. As to abrasive paste, I've been using Ack's and very happy with it. For a top, I sometimes add another coat of my own homebrew beeswax.
This is a pretty old video, Michael. I now have the same bandsaw as you and I like it quite a bit. I also use Acks when the opportunity presents itself. 😊
@@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop Love your approach and videos, buddy. Be well.
Great platter Phil!! You always do great work!! I use YG most of the time, but i still consider my a newbe. At the present time I use same sanding sealer you do and usually two coats. i apply more of the YG than you did and polish longer. Then kinda burnish a little with the paper towel. I use the ultra fine YG. I really like it but i haven't used shalack, so i can't compare to it. I use Tryed and True original as a finish. I think it has a more natural look. Just my opinion. I really enjoy your videos!!, keep on keeping on!! Eddie
Thanks for watching and commenting, Eddie! 😊
Hello Phil... Very nice peace … I am new in to woodturning ( 2 years now) and for a year now I am using Yorkshire grit and shellac as finish... best result I start to get after working much longer with grit … After sanding - 600g + sanding sealer + y.grit.
work with grit w/o lathe on for about 2 min , than with 600rpm , than 2000rpm all together for about 10 total...Thank shellac fits perfectly. So if you don't mind just work longer with Y.grit ause it a bit more of it...
Kind rgards
Gile
Thank you very much for your insight and advice, Gile! Next time I use YG I will definitely use more of it and will spend a little more time and then I will apply shellac. The maker also contacted me and said almost the same thing you said!
Hi just found your channel and subscribed. The sanding sealer is to stop the YG from soaking in and I don't use it on larger items but works great on smaller items hope this helps.
Thank you, David, for taking your time to watch and comment, I really appreciate it! Thank you, too, for your subscription, I will try to be worthy.
Phil
Phil I really enjoy your videos. Like the texture video you did. You talked a little today about your bandsaw. Wish you would do a video on your lathe and other lathes. I'm just starting and using my father old Craftsmen lathe and bandsaw. Thinking about getting a new lathe with easier speed control and having a reverse too.. would really enjoy you input on what is a good lathe.
Thanks
Tom
Seeing you sign the platter today, thought you might get a kick out on my signing.
S
F
N
then my name afterwards. It from memories of time in the shop with my father. He would always say one on Tom let's go to the shop and build or make Something From Nothing.
I love that, Tom, thanks! 😊 When I got my lathe I did a review video. The video is one of my first and uses my handheld phone so it's not great, a little unsteady. I complained about a couple things but have since either fixed them or got used to them. I love my Jet 1840 and recommend it! th-cam.com/video/CXLwSzit4-g/w-d-xo.html&t
Looks great. I have a couple platter blanks that size and I’ll be honest that I’m scared to mess them up lol. Looking forward to your next video
Ah, yes, I'm often afraid to mess up a piece of wood, even when it's not a significant piece. They all count! But, give it a go, I'll bet you do just fine!
Thank you, CG, for your comment, much appreciated!
Phil
Nice work, Phil!
Thank you so much, Rick!
I love the way it looks iridescent! It's a beauty.
Cool, thanks, Jeff! 😊
You might want to interrogate your garden
Gnome those pesky guys love to use the bandsaw when we are asleep at night. Lol.
Beautiful peice always a pleasure watching your videos and when I get my money saved plan on buying the nova comet II wood lathe and start turning
Yeah, it was probably one of those little critters, Eric! Thank you for taking your time to watch and comment, much appreciated! I think that Nova is one of the better lathes. I'm sure you will enjoy the hobby!
Phil
Phil, nice job on the platter. For what it's worth, I use either lacquer sanding sealer or the same sanding sealer as you, but I reduce it to a one pound cut. I love Yorkshire Grit, but I usually finish my pieces with an oil finish or friction polish (which is largely wax based). That said, I have also used water-based poly over it with no issues. I have also used YG without sanding sealer (usually by accident) with good results.
Billy
Thank you, Billy! I love the idea of applying it directly to the wood, saves time and effort! I think I may not have used enough of it and will use more, next time. I need to look into the water based poly. I wonder if it dries more quickly than oil based.
Thanks for your great comment!
Phil
Phil, I have found that water-based poly (Minwax Polycrylic is what I use) does dry faster than oil-based polys.
Billy
Thank you for the follow-up, Billy. I will get the Minwax and give it a try!
Phil
I make up my own "California grit" - three different grades, using Behlen's 4x pumice, 2x pumice, and rottenstone. I mix about 1 cup mineral oil, 1 cup beeswax granules and melt it over low heat in a teflon saucepan. I then add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the grit to it and stir it up. As it cools I stir it occasionally to ensure the grit doesn't settle out. If it seems too solid after cooling, remelt and add more oil. Mine has the consistency of a semi-solid paste.
I use this as pre-finishing steps after sanding to 400 - 600 grit, followed by the 2x, 4x, and rottenstone in that order while the lathe is running. After each grit, I use a clean cloth to remove all traces of the grit. I then finish with either a beeswax / tung oil mix, Danish oil, or shine juice depending on my mood. I have not yet tried sanding sealer prior to the grits.
At a few dollars a bottle for mineral oil at the drug store, $11 / lb for beeswax, and $10 - 15 / lb for the Behlen's (Amazon) I can make the equivalent of the $33 brand for pennies.
I like the way you think, David! Often we can do better than what we can buy and saving money at the same time, well, that's just a big 'ol bonus!
Phil
That is a beautiful piece of work, I normally use Yorkshire grit after the sanding sealer. My next piece of work I’m going to try the way you did it, no sanding sealer just go straight for the grit.
Thank you, Andy! I hope your YG experiment goes well!
Phil
Good video. I wouldn't mind seeing you produce a video on how you normally finish a piece. Thanks.
Thank you, George! Most of my videos show my normal way of finishing, including next weeks.
Thank you for taking your time to watch and comment, truly appreciated!
Phil
great piece phil never used the grit but the rebel turner uses ob shine juice after the grit and that is shellac based you should give it a try
Thanks, Wayne! Yes, I've seen Al apply it directly to the wood. I have tried OB shine juice and couldn't get it to work, for me. I followed Captain Eddie's instructions to a T but just can't get the shine. I think it may have to do with the climate but not sure.
Phil
I forgot to mention bandsaws. I have the Rikon you mentioned. It is a fine saw. I was going to get the Laguna but came across a used like new Rikon for 1/3 new cost and bought it. The Rikon is well built but for same price new I would have went with Laguna.
Hope this helps.
The Laguna's are great tools, no doubt about it but I think the Rikon has the most bang for the buck. Good to hear you like yours. That is probably the way I will go.
Phil
Great job my friend 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you, Tomas, for watching and commenting!
always enjoy your videos, please let us know how your investigation goes have noticed similar occurrences in my shop
Hahaha... I suppose we all have those gremlins in our shop that just won't 'fess up to being responsible, Roger. Thank you so much for taking your time to watch and comment!
love the wood grain pattern
Nice piece of wood for sure, Keith!
what a beautiful platter you made there, I have never used sanding sealer prior to Yorkshire grit and get a perfect finish every time. Keep up the good work and be safe. Ron
Thank you, Ron, for taking your time to watch and comment! And thanks for the YG advice!
Phil
As everything you do it looks great, both sides.
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PHIL, YOU CAN TURN A PIECE OF OLD WOOD INTO SOMETHING GORGEOUS...
I can at least try, Catfish! 😊
Pretty!
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Lovely job! - I thought the rule was that shellac could go over or under practically anything - I think you could give it a try if that's what you want...
Thank you so much, Steve, for taking your time to watch and comment! In this case, since I was doing a review, I thought I should follow the manufacturer's recommendations to the letter. He (the manufacturer) replied awhile ago that yes, shellac is fine, so I will definitely try it again along with my usual finish.
No doubt about it , it looks really very natural and beauitiful .
Thank you very much, Riaz! I really appreciate you taking your time to watch and comment!
Phil
madronawoodworks , you are very welcom Sir .
Nice Phil 👍👍👍
Thank you, Mark!
Hi Phil great vid again. Platter looks great . I too am thinking about getting the Rikon 14 inch, I have a General 14in I’ve had for 32 years. Yorkshire a lot of turners use, now I am not a chemist but using either pumice or rotten stone waxed with let’s say beeswax would be similar. Any thoughts?
Cheers Mark
I started using Ack's Paste, Mark, far superior. 😊
Get a Laguna 14suv. 14” resaw. height and an amazing tool. I have had mine for years. Best tool I ever bought
I do know Laguna makes some great bandsaws, Michael, and I have not ruled them out. I'm still considering but have to make a move, soon!
Phil
Have you tried the OB shine juice...Some swear by it... 1/3 each ..boiled linseed oil...shellac..Denatured alcohol..Mix and use... Some use it over yorkshire grit with success...Your turning looks great...Thank's
I have tried it, Steve, but with mixed results. At first it looks great, but as repeated coats are put on, it looks worse, for me. I don't know if it's the climate or what, but I've talked with others who had the same result. I don't doubt some people get great finishes out of it, but not me. I may try again, some day.
Thank you for your great comment, Steve!
Phil
Beautiful
😊
Hi Phil, I use Yorkshire Grit and I’m happy with it. The only difference I can see with my procedure and yours is that I use cellulose sanding sealer after sanding to 400, then use a bit more paste than you seemed to. I start at about 250-300 rpm and use a little more pressure than you, then start to work it at about 4-500 until I can’t feel the grit any more. I then use a clean piece of the same cloth at about 1000 until it comes clean. I hope this works for you...
Instablaster
Thank you
Subscribed Phil. Watching the vid and looking at the size of the piece I would say you needed to apply about twice the amount of Yorkshire grit... , if you can create a slurry on the leading edge of the towel for a minute or so it will do its job. Also you are fine to use shellac finishes over grit
Thank you so much, Glyn, for your subscription and taking your time to watch and comment! Others have said I didn't use enough, as well, and I guess you would know, for sure. I will give it another go in a future video. It's great that I can use shellac over it, that eases my concerns, considerably!
Thank you for your advice.
Phil
Two thank you's. First, Phil I love all your video's and enjoy them very much. I look forward to "Thursday", because that is the day the video's have been coming out. My thoughts are the same about "Yorkshire Grit" as you have said. It seems obvious to me, that the wood can't be polished or "gritted" after a sealant has been applied. So, it doesn't make sense to me in that way. I can only believe that the product is finishing the sealant to a nice shine. Now that the maker of it has said that shellac can be applied over "Yorkshire Grit", I will have to find it and buy a tin, to try it out. So, Thank You "Grit Folks" for this confirmation, here.
Howdy Phil... Maple does look so nice ....even when you had that blank ... Hope you find out who did the saw mark , maybe aliens came down and tried your band saw ....they want to buy another too .....hahaha LOL ....I have a Rikcon I bought about middle of the year . I was looking at the grizzly band saw . I was not impressed . I'll tell you more later...... I got the Rikcon threw Woodcraft , Woodcraft.com , they had a great sale on it , keep your eyes open . I have a store about 20 minutes away so I didn't have to worry about shipping and handling .
There is so many different ways to do a finish ....I was overwhelmed when I started looking at all the different finish products...... So I just tried a couple and came up with my own old school and new , not take me long at all . Better than spending plenty of money trying so many different products..... I just simply always use the fine sandpaper and if needed it all the way up to the 12,000 Grit . a platter like that would take about 15 minutes maybe 20 altogether , both sides , the way I would do it .
It also comes down to , , what you were saying and doing do you want to finish the wood or do you want to finish your covering..... I always like to have my wood super smooth and to thee point it begins to be shiny so when you put your finish on it it will reflect the wood and your finish .
Since I've gotten a spalted maple I've been really like a maple a lot more than oak .
So , are you just going to use up that Yorkshire grit paste and go back to your other way to finish ?
Hi Bruce, Yes, I too like working with maple especially if it's spalted. Glad to hear you thought enough of the Rikon to get it. There is a store about 10 miles away that has them and they sell them assembled, so I might go that route. Yes, so many finishes, so little time., Haha... I wish I could get some oak but it's hard to come by around here, but I keep looking! I will definitely use all the Yorkshire Grit, heck, it cost about 33 bucks with shipping! Waste not want not!
Phil
Phil I am learning so much from you. What kind of pen do you use to sign your work?
Thanks, Darrel! I use an Ultra Fine Point Sharpie and apply wax over the signature.
A question for you Phil. Do you thin your sanding sealer or use it straight out of the container ? I’m asking because it looks a bit thin. I’ve been using YG since it was launched and I’ve never had any issues with it. I sand up to 400, apply 2 coats (sometime 3), of undiluted s/sealer to get the grain raised then apply a liberal amount of YG, start off as you did at a low speed (around 400 rpm), keep moving the towel otherwise you can get “scratches” on the piece, then as no more is showing on the towel change to a clean one. I turn up the lathe speed as I’m removing the YG (to around 800 rpm). To finish I use a quality paste wax for the final finish. I have used a liquid wax with YG on small projects but never been happy with the results on larger ones. Oh & I don’t leave the s/sealer overnight, once it’s dry I get to work with the Y/G. I live in a somewhat inclement part of the UK, close to the Welsh border but generally that doesn’t have any negative effects on drying times. Probably no help to you, I wish I could drop by & we could try our different approaches. Anyways, I think you made a very nice platter/dish & as always I look forward to seeing what you have in store for us next.
Regards from the UK & Happy Turning.
Geof
I don't thin the sanding sealer, Geof. It's my understanding that the brand I use, Zinsser Seal Coat, is simply thinned, de-waxed, shellac. It says on the can not to thin it so I don't. It has always worked great for me, no matter the piece.
Next time I use the YG I will use more of it. That seems to be the consensus for what I did wrong.
I love finishing with wax, just for the ease of it, but I prefer a harder finish, like shellac, for the durability. I now understand I can use shellac over YG so will try that, next time.
Thanks for the tips and conversation and yes, it would be great if we could do it in person!
Phil
Love my laguna
I'll bet you do, they seem pretty popular, Gregory.
Hi, Phil.On the subject of maple.My parents had a double bed from way back when that Mom said was "rock-maple".
I thinkan excellent turning!
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Enjoyed!!!!!!!
I'm glad, Russell, thank you!
Phil
Hey Phil is it better to put sanding sealer on with a paper towel? I’m
Not all that good with finishes yet but was wondering if it does better by putting it on with a paper towel?
I would never use a paper towel, Madonna. It gets too sticky to quickly. I use a cloth rag and try to keep it wet so it glides rather than sticks. 😊
I'v used Yorkshire grit before, and i think you didn't really put enough on, But in all honesty i never found it to be that great, i find sanding upto 600git and then use Hampshire sheen sanding sealer which i find very good , if not a bit smelly, and then use either a friction polish or a wax
Thanks for the tips, Mart. I see that Glyn Senior, the maker of YG, has commented that I didn't use enough, also. I'll give it another try. Thank you for your time watching and commenting!
Phil
Real men don’t read instructions😊. Nice platter well done.👍
Arrrgh, Kevin! LOL! Yeah, I know, I don't usually, either. But if I am going to review something I think I have to start with what the manufacturer consider the right way before I modify to my own purposes. Thank you for taking your time to watch and comment, much appreciated!
Phil
Nice!
Beautiful maple platter. I think you're right about the front versus the back. I do like the soft shine of the wax finish versus shelac.
Cool, thanks, Judith! 😊
Phil, to get the best from the Yorkshire grit I usually use 0000 wire wool after the sealer. And finish with Danish oil
Thanks for the tips, Paul, I appreciate it!
Phil what pen do you use for signing your workpieces? Have you ever had any issues with the ink bleeding when you apply a finish?
I use an Ultra Fine Point Sharpie, Peter. It is, like most ink, alcohol based. Can't use shellac over it. I apply paste wax over the signature.
I bet you will find the Wood Knomes did it. They visit not just my shop but they follow to many outside jobs as well.
You are probably right, Tim, those little devils can be quite pesky, no matter where I am! LOL!
Phil
I have a lot of this with maple. When it's really dry is tears out like the soft woods.
😃
Hi, I haven't used yorkshire grit yet, I use a home made paste made with mineral oil beeswax and diatomaceous earth. Are you familiar with this. I was wondering how it compares with yorkshire grit any idea thanks Mike
In a video from a couple weeks ago I used the mixture you are describing. Gary at ThePapa1947 made it and sent it to me. It worked better than the YG. It also works great for rubbing out the final finish.
Phil
@@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop thanks I was wondering. I was glad to hear shellac was an ok finish I use that most of the time
What do u use to get a high gloss I have just got back in to wood turning again it’s been a few years can u let me now thanks
Hi Justin! I don't really try for a high gloss finish, anymore. The shiniest I do is shellac, which like this piece, is kind of a semi-gloss. If you want a high shine, I guess I would recommend wipe-on poly after a sanding sealer has been applied.
Phil
Shady Acres Woodshop ok just the same a I used to do then lol thanks
hi Phil,just thinking that mabe your band saw needs to be set up correctly then they cut straight,found a guy that did a vidio on how to set them,and he sure knows,just a thought
Thanks for your advice, Fran. After 50 years of woodworking, I've got a pretty good idea of how to set up my bandsaw, including the new one I bought right after this video.
Could you have resanded the back and started over to make the back smoother?
Yes but it wasn't really rough. Just not as nice as the top side. This was just an experiment. 😊
Very nice 👍👍👍👍
Thank you, Jack, glad you like it!
Phil
@@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop Nice job. I am in Salem, Or. Where are located in the NW?
@@kipallen8349 I'm in Bonney Lake, WA. That is East of Tacoma, East of Puyallup, East of Sumner, SE of Seattle.
Did you ever find the bandsaw bandit 😎👍
The next morning I was looking in the mirror and thought I saw a familiar face. It was probably him. 😊
Just started out so this might be a dumb question what about the hole the worm screw makes ? Thank you great job take care John
John, the screw projects about 3/4" into what will be the bowl cavity. You just turn it away while turning the top-side of the piece. Depending on thickness at the beginning, sometimes you can drill deeper, much deeper, than the 3/4". Other times you have to be careful not to drill so deep that when you turn the bowl cavity you don't end up with a hole in the bottom. Been there, done that!
Phil
@@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop THANK YOU ! I get it now I have 4 pieces of 2 by 2 inch glued together oak cherry oak cherry waiting to turn never did a bowl or dish yet I have a nova chuck and the Wood worm screw wasn't thinking that I could adjust the screw by the depth of the chuck so I understand completely what you said. Sometimes I'm slow I guess. ....lol thanks again John
Let me pass this along, John, as it just happened to me yesterday and I'm NOT a newby! When you put the wood worm screw in the jaws, make sure the flats line up with the flats in the jaws. If you don't, it will come loose no matter how tight you make it. Also, close the jaws almost tight then pull the screw to the front, towards the tailstock, then tighten fully. If you don't, it will pull out when you are turning and that won't be a good thing. I hope that is clear because it's important. Best of luck!
Phil
@@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop yes sir Phil loud and clear ! Thank you for taking the time to help me out ! I just learn from my mistakes and with a lathe it could be dangerous even know I'm on a 10-14 mini Jet . My main passion is building custom motorcycles all self taught with the same trials and errors had an incident with brakes once.....lol that was scary . Take care see ya on the next one.......John
Sounds like you have it under control, John. Lathes can be dangerous but motorcycles with brake problems, well, yeah, I bet that WAS scary! Stay safe!
Phil
I've heard you mention "OG" shape before. What does that mean?
I wish I had an artists words to describe it, Tony. Ogee is a profile shape that has a couple gentle curves to it. That doesn't do it justice, though.
Compared to Ack’s, is there one you like better?
Definitely prefer the Acks, Jonathan. However, I seldom get to use it. The pieces I normally turn have bark, inclusions, cracks, etc. and the paste get stuck in there and it can be difficult to get it out.
@@PhilAndersonShadyAcresWoodshop i like the acks myself better as well.
Phil gostaria de fazer um vídeo mostrando o torno de madeira que estou montando, mas não sei como eu envio pra você. Se você me enviar seu endereço, então peço um de meus filhos para mandar o vídeo. Pois eu não tenho endereço na Internet.
Alcino, Poste o vídeo em um site e poste o link aqui.
Phil
I see no scratches! Very pretty
😊
Beautiful work, two questions. Is it wax? And did you ever find out who was responsible for the errant bandsaw cut?
Thank you! The YG contains wax, yes. I've stopped using it years ago, right after this video so not much more info. NO! I don't know WHO made the bad cut! LOL!
I use Yorkshire grit directly to the wood think it works better.
Thanks, John, for your experience. It seemed to work better for me, as well. I will be trying it again.
I don't know, Uncle Phil; it looks to me like the backside has just a tad but more sheen, than the topside... hard to say. But still a beautiful piece 👍
Yes, it's hard to tell on video, Dwayne. Glad you like it, thanks!
I purchased the YG microfine and used it for the first time today. I was not impressed either. I have been sanding to 400 and then use sanding sealer. Then the YG.
😊
Lovely conventional turned piece, super grain, I have to say I think your usual method would have made the piece look better, however always good to try different procedures.
Agreed, just an extra, unneeded step, Lewis.
yorkshire grit is not made to remove your tearout! It's an abrasive paste, that works from 320 upwards.
Agreed, Christian, it sure isn't going to remove any tearout. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I think you artist instincts otherwise you would not bring out the best in the wood...I was surprised about the Yorkshire Grit...The instruction were different to what i have seen others use it and they applied directly to the wood first and sanding sealer...did you find the bloke who used the bansaw 😉...I see you applied directlu to wood first...It's a better finish when you apply the girt first. good job though
I guess I just think maybe the YG is for people that don't spend as much time as I do with sanding and finishing. I just couldn't see any time saved or improvement, Les. Yeah, I tried it both ways. Thank you for your comment!
Phil
Jeff Hornung
Thanks, Joe. I tagged him in the description so he would see this. I did hear from Glyn Senior and he thought I didn't use enough. I tried it on another piece and just don't see any benefit. I sure do want to, but I'm disappointed. May try again, some day.
Phil