As a dad that has done a lot of renovation for my daughter’s 1870 build house, I appreciate your effort and attention to detail. One thing I would recommend on flooring is construction adhesive. Screwed and glued!
This guy is a hack every framer and remodeler knows you should always stagger your seams for subfloor and it always runs underneath your bottom plate on your studs he just put lipstick on a pig instead of doing things properly
@@mistersniffer6838 no I'm not I've done it so many times it's not that hard you can use a high lift jack and do each side of the house at different times
I think it is always instructive to see any type of home repair. Never know what will go wrong with my house and I may need fix it myself, so watching you do the work will potentially be a big help.
Looks good, although I would have staggered joints using tongue and groove, 24" centers is a long distance to span and not have support in between sheets. Also putting a bead of liquid nails on top of each joist is a good idea to eliminate any possible squeaking. Just my 2 cents.
Exactly my thinking, too. Also, common practice is 6" fasteners on edges (which he did), but 12" in the field is sufficient. Of course, there's no harm in the additional fasteners!
Mr. McCrory, I was very impressed by the quality of work that you do and what directed me to this video is that I have been doing some remodeling in my home of my laundry room floor. I live in an older house as well and have removed some of the original joists because they were "twisted". After having worked on this project on and off, I decided to get some quotes to have a contractor complete the project. I sure would get a quote from you if you lived near me.
Nice video. I used a nail puller to remove the nails from my master bedroom floor when I replaced it with French pine. This enabled me to reuse the T&G to board a large section of my loft and avoid wasting perfectly good timber.
Great video, well done, my respect to you. I also used liquid nail between the joists and the subfloor , makes it more solid. You can jump and jump , and it won't move or make sound.
Looking forward to following the progress of this project. Why not glue subfloor to joists and use tongue and groove subfloor panels to ensure a solid base for the hardwood finished floor?
Gluing and tongue and groove would be more important if I had nailed the floor down. I'm glad I screwed it in place because when my daughter called me that evening to tell me that she had no power in her living room, I had to lift up those first to sheets of plywood to run a new cable back to the panel. I would have had a real mess on my hands if I had glued those down!
@@Woodumakeit I'm sorry, but that is a strange answer. You don't build a house with the idea that you can take it apart easily to fix a problem that should have been identified before closing it in. As for the failed foundation - I hope for your sake that it has finished settling, or those subfloor joints will open with very little house movement.
@@mskwared11 this is highly doubtful seeing as how many screws he had put in each sheet. If your house is settling that much to open those then you have a more serious issue than worrying about subfloor shifting. Every 8 inches a Screw not Nails. Sorry to tell you but this is plenty strong especially for the area this channel is from. Your region might be different.
I have the same thing going on in my office. I actuality had a corner of my house lifted and the lift still left the corner of my office slop. So it looks like you removed the hardwood as well and the subfloor and added wood to the joist to level the floor. Some people want to come in and add a leveling product to the subfloor. I like how you repaired the slop much better.
When doing this kind of work I find it's a lot easier to plan out where my subfloor is going to land on the joists, and then instead of having to make cuts to fit the plywood on one joist I just sister up an extra length of 2x. I personally feel more confident with having those screws going into the full meat of a board instead of sharing one joist.
I’ve done what you’ve done except in my case I had a sloping 1st floor and ceiling (kitchen) and directly above it, a sloping 2nd floor and ceiling (bedroom). All floors were t&g 3/4 in oak hardwood. Subfloor was 3/4 in t&g run on a 45 degree angle relative to finished floor. Had to remove 1st floor and ceiling and 2nd floor and ceiling to the joists and sistered to level. Plaster and wood lath. Man was that a lot of work. Demoing plaster walls/ceilings makes a boat load of heavy, hazardous debris!
That sounds like a lot of work, but hopefully it'll make a difference. I'm still removing plaster and lath from this house. One room left to go and then it's all gone.
Thanks for the video. This is EXACTLY what we are doing on our whole house! Seeing the work required for just 1 room though I am concerned about how long it will take to do the entire house to fix our sloping floor. :-(
Yeah, my bathroom is higher because they put a plywood subfloor on top of the existing subfloor when they added tile. This will be partly eliminated when I put down thicker hardwood in the hallway, but I will try to get them more or less even in height when we redo the bathroom.
I love this video. I am doing the same with my 94 year old house I have to replace my floor joists as well so I will have new joists, subfloor and floor 🎉
@@joshuadavis1655 Good luck with everything! I also had the foundation stabilized for peace of mind. With the new hardwood installed, you'd never know that the floor used to slope.
I have a 110 year old row house and my joists sagged 2.5” in the middle. I had a few carpenter friendsand structural engineers look at it before i began. I ended up doing a a sleeper subfloor. Worked very well but lots of tedious ripping of 2x4s. Instalked rift cut red oak on top. Came out so well my wife is making me do the living room now!!!
Good job man. This gives me alot of direction. I recently bought an old cottage with an uneven floor. In every room. I'll be doing alot of cutting and sistering. Thanks for the video.
I wantto see the renovation and the work you have to do to get it done. So my vote is for more of these:) I have one concern...why did you just level the floor which is band-aiding it instead of fixing what caused the problem? Just curious as this will happen again I bet.
It is reasonable to assume that the house foundation is done settling. Moreover, lifting the foundation would be a lot more involved, expensive and might just create a new opportunity for further settling in the future.
Really neat, my bedroom is slanted by prob an eighth of an inch. Chair slides back sometimes and can tell the monitor is kinda slanted. Hate that slanted floors is something that's not regulated
Great work! I’ve done a lot of these! It’s quite fulfilling when you put that brand new wood in next to the old. Hard transitions sometimes. My only critique would be you could’ve saved a lot of trouble if you just brought your skill saw. That’s really all you need. Other than the sawzaw of course. But man use that skill saw for cutting your plywood. No need for the jigsaw. It’s quick and you’ll get straighter lines.Cant wait to see more
This corner of the house is sitting on a slab and it's an older house so it doesn't have a foundation like we would use nowadays. I haven't done it yet, but I am going to have helical push piers installed in that corner of the house. I'll have them attempt to raise that corner up just a bit so that I don't have to undo the floor leveling that I did, especially because I just installed the hardwood flooring last weekend, so it would be a major effort to undo. It'll be about $20K to have that done but worth it to give me peace of mind.
@@Woodumakeit Thanks for the response! That is funny you mention the helical piers - I was just talking about using them when redoing our deck out back. I was told they run about $350 for each pier out here but have not verified that cost yet.
Great job! Would have been a good time to insulate between the floors for sound deadening, would love to be able to do that on our current house, given the kids rooms are above ours.
Yes, I had the same issue. In the follow-on video I leveled the ceiling using a similar process. Now I have one wall shorter than the other, but it's not too noticeable unless you're really looking hard. 😊
Yes, I will do it. I have a sloping kitchen bump out -- 1.25" over 8 feet. I was going to cheat and use self leveling compound. Sistering the joists is a better solution. Thanks.
If a corner of the room dropped due to a failed footer of some kind, what happened to the walls, roof, windows, etc.? The room would obviously be torqued all out of proportion. Seems like you went to a lot of trouble and work without rectifying the initial problem. Why didn't you fix that to begin with, or are we missing something you didn't report? And what's to say the room won't continue to settle? Sorry, I don't get this at all.
This settling happened before 1980 and I don't think it's moving anymore. Fixing the foundation would have cost way more than I wanted to spend. This is the end unit of a row of townhouses build between 1910 and 1920. If I were to fix the foundation and raise that side up, I wouldn't want to be liable for any potential damage to the neighboring unit, so I chose this method to rectify the sloping floor.
Well you hope it won’t settle more it will be someone else’s problem in the future I had kinda the same problem but I fixed mine from ground up redid the foundation an sealed the old craw space now entire house is leveled an will my kids will never have to deal with the issue in the future
I'm remodeling a 1911 balloon building right now and all the floors need this .... glad to have discovered your channel. Any reason you didn't use construction adhesive on the joist before putting the subfloor down?
Being 6’1” tall with 8 ft height Would it feel like the ceiling was slanted down as you the ceiling seemed to slop approximately 2” As I graidualkt ma fade the 8.6 wowsl M + Wifecasked me if a was grubkf She think VEEY FEW PEOPLE Will not the shining height I of r Th gecrr red king by look inch out the
Wife and I think he room slanting 2.75”? Over 6, will no havto brcxcxsrsd if him come gif the fmguyb that shoot 200 , rounds is cool and he small we Mathis plus they have kites or coyotes an seen like horse Imagine being killed by a dear!!! That would suck
It's nice to see the more practical side of woodworking. Part of what makes it interesting for me to watch is "making things to make life better", and "making a living space better" sounds a lot like that.
Great Tutorial! Really impressive with the details! However, won't the ceiling now appear 'sloped', with a new, even floor? Also, I am glad to see you ran a spare home-run of Romex® wire for future use! I might have recommended another for that room as well!
You're right about the ceiling, but I took care of that in the next video with the same type of approach when I finished that room. I definitely wish I had run an extra run of Romex while I was doing that because I'm finding a lot more knob and tube wiring that I had expected. I've eliminated all of it from the upstairs, but I'm going to be opening up most of the downstairs ceiling anyways, so I'll likely put in one or two more runs to remove all of the knob and tube wiring that's still remaining downstairs.
Just a question , but why didn't you fix this problem from what caused the floor to be so uneven by raising it up where it was sinking.? Note, I'm not critisizing , just curious.
A question I had is, if the whole house settled, will the floor no longer be perpendicular to the walls, because only the floor has been fixed? 3.5" over 10’ is a big slope. At least the floor is leveled.
With that much settlement you likely have an issue with the foundation. It is good to repair that first. Push Piers generally work well for a fix like yours. You have the advantage that you can use them to level out the floor as well.
@@Woodumakeit Helicals are an option and I have done foundation repair designs with helical piles. Where I can, I like push piers since they are so quick to install, can level the house, and can be adjusted in the future if need be. But it is good to hear the foundation was addressed. I see so many people try to fix the building before the foundation.
It's a Band-Aid, I would have used pump jacks lifted the corner padded the sill plate and then gone your method. Over 3'' in a 10' span is a deal breaker for me. I am really curious about the foundation now..
Was the foundation not accessible to jack out the slope? It looks good but I've would had kept the original t&g subfloor and just either padded the 3 1/4" difference on top or removed just the sloped section of t&g to make the repair.
Gave a thumbs up but got a couple of questions Why did you not clean up the sawdust between the joists after cutting the ply? Why did you put insulation in the floor? Why did you not stagger the plywood? Why no glue on the new floor joists for the ply?
I did clean up most of the sawdust, but didn't show me doing that on the video. If you look at around the 12 minute mark, you can see that it's pretty clean between the joists. I'm sure there was a bit of sawdust left behind, though because I didn't clean up after making some of the small cuts with the jigsaw. I put a bit of insulation near the ends of the joists to minimize drafts coming up along the brick wall, but I didn't insulate the entire floor. I could have done that for sound proofing, but didn't feel it was necessary. I could have staggered the plywood, I guess, but I got more use out of the sheets of plywood by not staggering them because of the position of the joists. It's a fairly small room and I put hardwood on top, so it won't matter that much. I didn't glue down the plywood because I used a lot of screws, and it gave me the ability to open up the floor, if needed, before putting down the hardwood. Gluing the plywood is more important when you use nails or fewer screws. I ended up needing to open the floor up a few days later after I realized that one of the old knob and tube circuits I had removed was live and was feeding the whole front of the house, so I'm glad it wasn't glued down. The hardwood is down now and it looks really nice.
Thank you for making this. I think it's exactly what I need to fix my issue. I like the way you fixed the one 2 x 4 in order to create a guide for the sisters to butt up against.
Absolutely love this content! Speaking as one with a 100 plus year old home with.... character lol. Your approach and follow through is excellent to watch!
Your chessboards are outstanding, but I really l like this content also. It's nice to see a project progress over time and to watch the problem solving as issues arise.
Im about to level a bathroom floor on a 100 year old house. Im either gonna sister the joists or just lay some sleepers on top of the old sub floor before adding a new sub floor. Cant figure out which is best
I would love to see more of these videos from you, you explain things well and show what you're doing. Yes you did make something - you made it better 😀
I have a slopping floor on the 3rd floor on side only towards the middle of the building. I thought about unscrewing the plywood subfloor and placing wood pieces on the beam and then screw the plywood back on top. Would that work and be quicker/cheaper or am I mistaken?
There's actually no crawl space under this portion of the house. It's on a footing and a concrete slab. I had the foundation professionally stabilized a few weeks ago using push piers and screw jacks and they raised that corner up by about 0.25" (vs. the 3.5" that I raised up that corner with the new joists). They wouldn't have been able to raise the house up any more than that because it would have caused other problems. I am now confident that the corner is not going to sink any more. My fix with the joists, insulation and drywall was accomplished for less than $1K, so I did that first so that I could continue with my renovations. The foundation work ended up being around $15K.
Thanks for subscribing! I have a playlist that has all of the renovations that I've done so far at my daughter's house. th-cam.com/play/PL71teUGc82o8UHNEISRqePAuUAHNB9RB9.html I'll be starting next year on the downstairs where I'll be adding a bathroom and moving the kitchen.
A great example of a caring dad helping his daughter. I have a daughter too (she's 3), and I hope to one day work on projects like this with her :)
While she's growing, have her learn by helping you on projects you're working on. That way you both can work on her future home together as well.
Just give her a good education..make her a doctor or scientist and ahe can hire someone to do this.
@@sajidrafique375 contractors make more than doctors, Pablo and juan got a new 2024 Ford this year, hard work!
@@sajidrafique375 You missed the entire point lol
I watched the whole series of essential craftsman build their spec home, so yes, i do enjoy this kind of content
Helpful video! Also that is very nice of you to help your daughter with the reno. She is lucky to have you as a dad!
As a dad that has done a lot of renovation for my daughter’s 1870 build house, I appreciate your effort and attention to detail. One thing I would recommend on flooring is construction adhesive. Screwed and glued!
What, the old 100 year nailing wasnt good enough for you? You expect to live 200 years???
Who cares about your?? Pants
This guy is a hack every framer and remodeler knows you should always stagger your seams for subfloor and it always runs underneath your bottom plate on your studs he just put lipstick on a pig instead of doing things properly
@@ching574 - You want him to lift the hole house to place subfloor under the wall? Are you nuts????
@@mistersniffer6838 no I'm not I've done it so many times it's not that hard you can use a high lift jack and do each side of the house at different times
I would've glued the new joist to the old and glued the plywood floor to the top of the joists. Helps keep it tight, and future squeaks eliminated.
I think it is always instructive to see any type of home repair. Never know what will go wrong with my house and I may need fix it myself, so watching you do the work will potentially be a big help.
Along with vehicles
This is what “I see what your saying” turns into. Shouts out to you!!
What did you do to the foundation is the question for me. . Thanks.
Just came across this video based on a search and it has a lot of good information, thanks!
If there was an issue with the foundation causing the sloping floor what was done to repair the foundation?
Looks good, although I would have staggered joints using tongue and groove, 24" centers is a long distance to span and not have support in between sheets. Also putting a bead of liquid nails on top of each joist is a good idea to eliminate any possible squeaking.
Just my 2 cents.
Could have put far less screws in it that way haha
Exactly my thinking, too. Also, common practice is 6" fasteners on edges (which he did), but 12" in the field is sufficient. Of course, there's no harm in the additional fasteners!
Mr. McCrory, I was very impressed by the quality of work that you do and what directed me to this video is that I have been doing some remodeling in my home of my laundry room floor. I live in an older house as well and have removed some of the original joists because they were "twisted". After having worked on this project on and off, I decided to get some quotes to have a contractor complete the project. I sure would get a quote from you if you lived near me.
Yes! Rea woodworking for the house is the real thing! Thank you for thos video!
Haven't seen your other content, but love this renovation work content. More of this please. Very useful to a lot of folks in similar situations.
Agreed! I just moved into a 1925 build that has this exact floor structure, same materials and everything. This is so helpful.
Nice video. I used a nail puller to remove the nails from my master bedroom floor when I replaced it with French pine. This enabled me to reuse the T&G to board a large section of my loft and avoid wasting perfectly good timber.
Great video, well done, my respect to you. I also used liquid nail between the joists and the subfloor , makes it more solid. You can jump and jump , and it won't move or make sound.
Looking forward to following the progress of this project. Why not glue subfloor to joists and use tongue and groove subfloor panels to ensure a solid base for the hardwood finished floor?
Gluing and tongue and groove would be more important if I had nailed the floor down. I'm glad I screwed it in place because when my daughter called me that evening to tell me that she had no power in her living room, I had to lift up those first to sheets of plywood to run a new cable back to the panel. I would have had a real mess on my hands if I had glued those down!
@@Woodumakeit I'm sorry, but that is a strange answer. You don't build a house with the idea that you can take it apart easily to fix a problem that should have been identified before closing it in. As for the failed foundation - I hope for your sake that it has finished settling, or those subfloor joints will open with very little house movement.
@@mskwared11 this is highly doubtful seeing as how many screws he had put in each sheet. If your house is settling that much to open those then you have a more serious issue than worrying about subfloor shifting. Every 8 inches a Screw not Nails. Sorry to tell you but this is plenty strong especially for the area this channel is from. Your region might be different.
Hi, you did quite massive intervention to level the floor. Thanks for sharing it!
I have the same thing going on in my office. I actuality had a corner of my house lifted and the lift still left the corner of my office slop. So it looks like you removed the hardwood as well and the subfloor and added wood to the joist to level the floor. Some people want to come in and add a leveling product to the subfloor. I like how you repaired the slop much better.
Another vote for both kinds of videos. I enjoy both kinds.
When doing this kind of work I find it's a lot easier to plan out where my subfloor is going to land on the joists, and then instead of having to make cuts to fit the plywood on one joist I just sister up an extra length of 2x. I personally feel more confident with having those screws going into the full meat of a board instead of sharing one joist.
Wow you've made this process look so easy. Time to rip into my floors now
I’ve done what you’ve done except in my case I had a sloping 1st floor and ceiling (kitchen) and directly above it, a sloping 2nd floor and ceiling (bedroom). All floors were t&g 3/4 in oak hardwood. Subfloor was 3/4 in t&g run on a 45 degree angle relative to finished floor. Had to remove 1st floor and ceiling and 2nd floor and ceiling to the joists and sistered to level. Plaster and wood lath. Man was that a lot of work. Demoing plaster walls/ceilings makes a boat load of heavy, hazardous debris!
That sounds like a lot of work, but hopefully it'll make a difference. I'm still removing plaster and lath from this house. One room left to go and then it's all gone.
Great repair. Just as long as the basement and first floor is level. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video. This is EXACTLY what we are doing on our whole house! Seeing the work required for just 1 room though I am concerned about how long it will take to do the entire house to fix our sloping floor. :-(
I've just done exactly the same as subsidence had caused the floor to slope 2.5inch.I ran extra joists and glued and screwed them with new flooring.
I am looking forward to the bathroom renovation since I have a similar situation where my floor drops about 3/4” from the hallway into the bathroom.
Yeah, my bathroom is higher because they put a plywood subfloor on top of the existing subfloor when they added tile. This will be partly eliminated when I put down thicker hardwood in the hallway, but I will try to get them more or less even in height when we redo the bathroom.
Doing the exact same thing at my daughters. Was going to sister in joists but instead We jacked the old joists to make them level.
It’s nice to see you doing more stuff and would be fun to see your progress and the final result.
I love this video. I am doing the same with my 94 year old house I have to replace my floor joists as well so I will have new joists, subfloor and floor 🎉
I always like any kind of Renovation videos God-bless you and your family Amen and Aloha
Enjoyed this change of pace for you. I would like to see the future renovations you have planned for your daughter's house.
Dad of the year award right there
I like watching reno projects. I've done two apartments myself and will probably do a house soon so I find it interesting.
This was a great video as I am currently doing this exact thing. Floor slopes to 3 and 3/4 inches from 1 side to the other.
@@joshuadavis1655 Good luck with everything! I also had the foundation stabilized for peace of mind. With the new hardwood installed, you'd never know that the floor used to slope.
Thank you for the sloping floor video! Now I feel empowered to level my floor when I get to that part of my renovation.
I hope all is well.
That should be the first part.
I have a 110 year old row house and my joists sagged 2.5” in the middle. I had a few carpenter friendsand structural engineers look at it before i began. I ended up doing a a sleeper subfloor. Worked very well but lots of tedious ripping of 2x4s. Instalked rift cut red oak on top. Came out so well my wife is making me do the living room now!!!
Yep. The sleeper is often overlooked.
Good job man. This gives me alot of direction. I recently bought an old cottage with an uneven floor. In every room. I'll be doing alot of cutting and sistering. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for reminding me why I am paying through the nose for new construction with our upcoming house.
I wantto see the renovation and the work you have to do to get it done. So my vote is for more of these:) I have one concern...why did you just level the floor which is band-aiding it instead of fixing what caused the problem? Just curious as this will happen again I bet.
It is reasonable to assume that the house foundation is done settling. Moreover, lifting the foundation would be a lot more involved, expensive and might just create a new opportunity for further settling in the future.
Yes, I would love to see more of this type of video
smart guy I like it , wish I had you here to fix my house great vid
Great work, but wont the house still continue to sink?
Really neat, my bedroom is slanted by prob an eighth of an inch. Chair slides back sometimes and can tell the monitor is kinda slanted. Hate that slanted floors is something that's not regulated
Great work! I’ve done a lot of these! It’s quite fulfilling when you put that brand new wood in next to the old. Hard transitions sometimes. My only critique would be you could’ve saved a lot of trouble if you just brought your skill saw. That’s really all you need. Other than the sawzaw of course. But man use that skill saw for cutting your plywood. No need for the jigsaw. It’s quick and you’ll get straighter lines.Cant wait to see more
Great content. What, if anything, did you do to the foundation? Is there anything keeping it from sinking further?
This corner of the house is sitting on a slab and it's an older house so it doesn't have a foundation like we would use nowadays. I haven't done it yet, but I am going to have helical push piers installed in that corner of the house. I'll have them attempt to raise that corner up just a bit so that I don't have to undo the floor leveling that I did, especially because I just installed the hardwood flooring last weekend, so it would be a major effort to undo. It'll be about $20K to have that done but worth it to give me peace of mind.
@@Woodumakeit Thanks for the response! That is funny you mention the helical piers - I was just talking about using them when redoing our deck out back. I was told they run about $350 for each pier out here but have not verified that cost yet.
interesting, but when ours had a problem we rejacked the floor up and fixed the supports, not covered it up.
Nice work and what a great thing to be able to do for your daughter. Also dude’s ripped lol!
Great job! Would have been a good time to insulate between the floors for sound deadening, would love to be able to do that on our current house, given the kids rooms are above ours.
I would have used the opportunity to insulate too. Makes a huge difference in how warm the floor feels in winter.
Great job. I'm wondering if you could find that why is not level. Or may be to lift the one side of the floor up.
Great build…likely a bit overbuilt which is what I would do too 😊. Why did you choose not to insulate first? Pls do add more videos for us DIYers.!
Great content... keep them coming. Watching from NC
Anyway to have jacked up the low end to the room?
Great work you do. I’m doing the same me and my buddy, but we sister them and all but my floor is still unleveled😢
Yes, I had the same issue. In the follow-on video I leveled the ceiling using a similar process. Now I have one wall shorter than the other, but it's not too noticeable unless you're really looking hard. 😊
Yes, I will do it. I have a sloping kitchen bump out -- 1.25" over 8 feet. I was going to cheat and use self leveling compound. Sistering the joists is a better solution. Thanks.
Awesome job. Curious whether you had the foundation assesed by an ingeneer before commiting to the floor leveling or just got hands on straight away?
Sssh
If a corner of the room dropped due to a failed footer of some kind, what happened to the walls, roof, windows, etc.? The room would obviously be torqued all out of proportion. Seems like you went to a lot of trouble and work without rectifying the initial problem. Why didn't you fix that to begin with, or are we missing something you didn't report? And what's to say the room won't continue to settle? Sorry, I don't get this at all.
This settling happened before 1980 and I don't think it's moving anymore. Fixing the foundation would have cost way more than I wanted to spend. This is the end unit of a row of townhouses build between 1910 and 1920. If I were to fix the foundation and raise that side up, I wouldn't want to be liable for any potential damage to the neighboring unit, so I chose this method to rectify the sloping floor.
What a jerryrig job get a professional house leveler and do the job right you are just putting lipstick on a pig
Well you hope it won’t settle more it will be someone else’s problem in the future I had kinda the same problem but I fixed mine from ground up redid the foundation an sealed the old craw space now entire house is leveled an will my kids will never have to deal with the issue in the future
@@matthewmcclure3467cool story bro
Kicking the can down the road as they say
Good video but i would recommend using some subfloor glue to guarantee it wont squeak
Once you levelled the one side of the floor what did you do with the window or the ceiling because now that would’ve been all lopsided as well
I'm remodeling a 1911 balloon building right now and all the floors need this .... glad to have discovered your channel. Any reason you didn't use construction adhesive on the joist before putting the subfloor down?
Balloon framing is tricky. If you don’t tie the walls together they could blow out
Like the restoration video's so the combination of both your styles is fine with me.
Does raising the floor that much make the room look weird? Thinking about where the eye goes, like window heights from floor, or floor to ceiling, etc
If you watch the follow-on video, woodumakeit adjusts the ceiling, too. Perhaps that video wasn't available when you submitted this comment. Not sure.
Yes my rectangle 11x17 kitchen slopes 1 1/2 down at the 17?’l and wall
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Being 6’1” tall with 8 ft height
Would it feel like the ceiling was slanted down as you the ceiling seemed to slop approximately 2”
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M + Wifecasked me if a was grubkf
She think VEEY FEW PEOPLE Will not the shining height I of r
Th gecrr red king by look inch out the
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Imagine being killed by a dear!!!
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Would be cool to watch the progress. My Bride and I are in the middle of serious renovation on our home.
It's nice to see the more practical side of woodworking. Part of what makes it interesting for me to watch is "making things to make life better", and "making a living space better" sounds a lot like that.
So I yanked carpet out and found out i have plank style subflooring. I want to install lvp, so should I put 1/2 inch plywood down first?
if the floor is sinked, the wall will not plumb as well. would you fix the wall, window and door too?
Love this type of content! Thank you for sharing!
So how do you know if you should use this method or if you should try to jack up the whole floor system?
Great Tutorial! Really impressive with the details! However, won't the ceiling now appear 'sloped', with a new, even floor? Also, I am glad to see you ran a spare home-run of Romex® wire for future use! I might have recommended another for that room as well!
You're right about the ceiling, but I took care of that in the next video with the same type of approach when I finished that room. I definitely wish I had run an extra run of Romex while I was doing that because I'm finding a lot more knob and tube wiring that I had expected. I've eliminated all of it from the upstairs, but I'm going to be opening up most of the downstairs ceiling anyways, so I'll likely put in one or two more runs to remove all of the knob and tube wiring that's still remaining downstairs.
My wife and I enjoyed this video and look forward to following along with your progress.
I like both your chess boards and this kind of content. Please keep up the good work...
Solid floor. Looks like you have a very small crawl space
Just a question , but why didn't you fix this problem from what caused the floor to be so uneven by raising it up where it was sinking.? Note, I'm not critisizing , just curious.
If it’s a foundational issue, it could be very arduous and expensive to fix
Did you address the foundation problem
Nice detail and explanation. Thanks I like it 👍🙂
Looks good, except you didn't block each end, or use glue on joists?
I really like the reno content alongside the chess boards. Keep them coming please!
Recently bought a house built in 1890 and the second floor has sloping floors. This is a brilliant solution, thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks! I checked out your channel and saw a video from Kitchener. I grew up in Simcoe, just one hour south of there, but I live in Virginia now.
A question I had is, if the whole house settled, will the floor no longer be perpendicular to the walls, because only the floor has been fixed? 3.5" over 10’ is a big slope. At least the floor is leveled.
I've done it. Nice work 👍
With that much settlement you likely have an issue with the foundation. It is good to repair that first. Push Piers generally work well for a fix like yours. You have the advantage that you can use them to level out the floor as well.
I did have helical piers installed but they were able to raise that corner up by only about 1/2". I had to do the rest using this approach.
@@Woodumakeit Helicals are an option and I have done foundation repair designs with helical piles. Where I can, I like push piers since they are so quick to install, can level the house, and can be adjusted in the future if need be. But it is good to hear the foundation was addressed. I see so many people try to fix the building before the foundation.
It's a Band-Aid, I would have used pump jacks lifted the corner padded the sill plate and then gone your method. Over 3'' in a 10' span is a deal breaker for me. I am really curious about the foundation now..
Was the foundation not accessible to jack out the slope? It looks good but I've would had kept the original t&g subfloor and just either padded the 3 1/4" difference on top or removed just the sloped section of t&g to make the repair.
Gave a thumbs up but got a couple of questions
Why did you not clean up the sawdust between the joists after cutting the ply?
Why did you put insulation in the floor?
Why did you not stagger the plywood?
Why no glue on the new floor joists for the ply?
I did clean up most of the sawdust, but didn't show me doing that on the video. If you look at around the 12 minute mark, you can see that it's pretty clean between the joists. I'm sure there was a bit of sawdust left behind, though because I didn't clean up after making some of the small cuts with the jigsaw. I put a bit of insulation near the ends of the joists to minimize drafts coming up along the brick wall, but I didn't insulate the entire floor. I could have done that for sound proofing, but didn't feel it was necessary. I could have staggered the plywood, I guess, but I got more use out of the sheets of plywood by not staggering them because of the position of the joists. It's a fairly small room and I put hardwood on top, so it won't matter that much. I didn't glue down the plywood because I used a lot of screws, and it gave me the ability to open up the floor, if needed, before putting down the hardwood. Gluing the plywood is more important when you use nails or fewer screws. I ended up needing to open the floor up a few days later after I realized that one of the old knob and tube circuits I had removed was live and was feeding the whole front of the house, so I'm glad it wasn't glued down. The hardwood is down now and it looks really nice.
Thank you for making this. I think it's exactly what I need to fix my issue. I like the way you fixed the one 2 x 4 in order to create a guide for the sisters to butt up against.
this was very helpful and informative. thanks
Absolutely love this content! Speaking as one with a 100 plus year old home with.... character lol. Your approach and follow through is excellent to watch!
My floor is sagging in the kitchen. I'm not sure what I need to do, can you make a video on the topic?
Your chessboards are outstanding, but I really l like this content also. It's nice to see a project progress over time and to watch the problem solving as issues arise.
Im about to level a bathroom floor on a 100 year old house. Im either gonna sister the joists or just lay some sleepers on top of the old sub floor before adding a new sub floor. Cant figure out which is best
I would love to see more of these videos from you, you explain things well and show what you're doing. Yes you did make something - you made it better 😀
Thank you for this video! I am in the process of this same project at my old house.
I love this video. I want to see more
It will be good if you talk the thickness of the plywood and the size of the screws are you using to attach the Subfloor
Interesting demo techniques..
I have a slopping floor on the 3rd floor on side only towards the middle of the building. I thought about unscrewing the plywood subfloor and placing wood pieces on the beam and then screw the plywood back on top. Would that work and be quicker/cheaper or am I mistaken?
We're taking out a subfloor and it's taking forever because it was glued, screwed, and too many staples. Is there an easier way?
The sagging floor wasn't due to a foundation issue? I hope this isn't just a band-aid fix while you find bigger issues under the crawlspace.
There's actually no crawl space under this portion of the house. It's on a footing and a concrete slab. I had the foundation professionally stabilized a few weeks ago using push piers and screw jacks and they raised that corner up by about 0.25" (vs. the 3.5" that I raised up that corner with the new joists). They wouldn't have been able to raise the house up any more than that because it would have caused other problems. I am now confident that the corner is not going to sink any more. My fix with the joists, insulation and drywall was accomplished for less than $1K, so I did that first so that I could continue with my renovations. The foundation work ended up being around $15K.
@@Woodumakeit Got it. Thanks for the extra info!
I really enjoyed this
Would love to see the whole job.
Subscribing now!
Thanks for subscribing! I have a playlist that has all of the renovations that I've done so far at my daughter's house. th-cam.com/play/PL71teUGc82o8UHNEISRqePAuUAHNB9RB9.html I'll be starting next year on the downstairs where I'll be adding a bathroom and moving the kitchen.
I like that Marita cordless saw!