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Get some secondhand sail material at one of the marinas you dock at, turn it into a roll up awning and run it from the back of the cabin to the davit and you can cover your whole deck
don't forget to get a radar diamond so other boats can actually see you on radar. it just makes it easier for other boats with radar to see your boat better. I used to work in Sooke BC at Marine search and rescue🥰
There are much better radar reflectors available than a simple diamond or a tubular stack of aluminum corners. Echomax (or similar) blow the simple reflectors out of the water. An order of magnitude better returns and from a much wider selection of angles.
@@tissuepaper9962 true but if you encase an aluminum diamond in ten square feet of glassfiber why not buy the $200-$300 actually optimized reflector with integral poop proofing?
1:04:39 That looks like it might be "Lovebug", a 122-foot, $8,000,000 yacht that sunk earlier this year! (there were no casualties, all 5 people were rescued thankfully) In your footage, it's actually being re-floated by Donjon Marine Co. for salvage, so it's technically "payday" for them lol
Nobody does complete build videos paced with this much content in this amount of time on TH-cam anymore - even though they're the _best_ type of DIY build video. I'm not even a boat guy (can't recall which of your OG FT-era videos I got hooked on) and this was - by far - one of your best if not THE best video you've ever put out. For that matter, I'd say this is one of the best and most satisfying build videos I've seen on YT all year. Congrats. Sure, some things might need some more fettling, but you've done a hell of a job not to mention a hell of a trip too. Bravo, Peter. Bravo.
I was thinking the same. Or a water catching arrangement that diverts it safely away from the engine. Probably too late for that now it's all pretty, so the flap might have to do.
I'd keep the front hand rails. Just paint them black to reduce light glare. Also, if possible, add more hand rails. Having lots of places to grab a hold of on the water is always useful.
I have been welding dirt circle track race car chassis together for 28 years, your welds are perfectly fine. They don't have to be the prettiest, they just have to penetrate right and not be contaminated.
I don't have much to say, but I felt like I should share how much I liked this video. I'm not sure exactly what made me like it so much but I've just spent the last 1h30 pretty much glued to my seat watching it. Thank you for this, this was great.
$250 for a small bracket that should have been included with the original (already eye-wateringly expensive) product purchase........ I had no idea that Apple made boat stuff! 😁
@1:19:00 Peter learns the old addage is true, "It's better to be on at the dock, wishing you were sailing, than to be sailing and wishing you were at the dock."
One of the main reasons you see stainless rust is from the hardware. People think stainless hardware is just good to go. What the don’t think about is the fact that all the tooling used to manufacture said hardware is made from steel. And the cutting oil used has steel micro shavings in it. To combat this. We always clean our hardware in a bucket of acetone first. Just dump it in the bucket. Swish it around a bit. Let it sit and then use it. The other reason it rusts is because people burn the welds in too hot and it burns the chromium out of it. Also. Remember. It’s stain”less”. Not stain “free”. (My dad always said that). One more thing to say. On your exhaust. You need a mount that goes from the pipe to the underside of the deck as close to the muffler side of the bellows joint as possible. Just the weight of the pipe will be enough to crack that bellows flex pipe. I’ve seen it main times. I live on vinalhaven island. One of the largest producers of lobster !!
Peter, to fix the damage caused from running aground, you might want to cover it with aluminum, it would help with preventing major damage from running aground and keep your paint job safer. Or use stainless steel, your choice.
I was a lobsterman for years. That exhaust pipe is usually uninsulated. When you are out lobstering in the winter, and your hands start to freeze, you grab onto that exhaust pipe to thaw your hands out.
@@DavidIvan-AC I know another myth and that is you ever going to get a girlfriend Mr cringe no rizz do you think a guy that literally worked on a big boat would lie the only the exhaust you are thinking about is a car or a small engine exhaust that is only a foot long yes it would be hot and he probably didn't actually grab on to it for very long and probably just held there hands near the exhaust
So I know you don't want to hear this, but when you're patching a hole that deep in structural fiberglass you need to have 2 inches of overhang on every single lair. So if that boat is 8 layers thick. And I assume you patched 6. Your 6" patch would be first, then a square patch 10x10", 14x14, 18x18.. and so on. THAT'S why people usually write off fiberglass damage, it's much more work than just building a plug.
Actually it’s the other way around. Might seem counter intuitive, but you start with the largest piece and the build thickness with smaller and smaller pieces. th-cam.com/video/6N7YMr6E564/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Get yourself a prop line cutter. Forget all about the shearing or sawing versions and go with the PropProtector Line Cutter brand. It's a simple circular knife which comes in slide on or a two piece clamp on version which can be installed without removing the prop. I had one on a displacement cruiser. My wife and traveled 28000 miles on that boat and we never had a fouled prop because of crab pot lines or any other line. It's important to keep your single engine boat under power at all times. When your one and only engine stops for any reason, you are automatically in trouble, so cover all your bases. I consider a line cutter mandatory and I can testify that the simple knife style cutter is very effective.
for the hole under the boat, you should have ground a border edge that was at least 6 to 10 inches where the repair fibergl overlaps the border not just fill a hole in!
Hey Mate, I am part of the Sailing communities and I have 1 bit of essentual advice for you. Please reinstall those hand rails or install a replacement hand rail. A large portion of people I know have stories of people been washed over board and lost at sea - accidents always happen not on a calm day when you can turn the boat around but in bad weather and at night (and trust me trying to find a human in in water is hard - you are essentually looking for a Basketball bobbing in the waves) Those hand rails are increadibly important because no matter how many hand holds you may have on the hull of your boat when a wave hits and you are falling off the boat you are trying to grab the nearest thing which will always be the hand rail around the edge of the boat (and as a bonus your body will hit the hand rail) Finally, you have a dog and a hand rail with is a great way to discourage a dog from doing the usual thing of sticking it's head over the water and then falling into the water. For your safety please consider putting some hand rails back on (even painted black/matte)
@@aggrogator4045 You are completely missing the point. Firstly, early on - 70s, 80s and 90s the safety regulation were a lot more lax which resulted in many cases where guard rails were not installed/partially installed on a boat - and there are many stories of sailors been lost because of that. There are also hundreds of stories of people who are alive or have had close calls becuase of a Guard been in place so they were able to grab onto it or had their body/harness hit it. Secondly, if you think because people do fall over board with guard rails attached then said rails are useless then you are failing to take into account any context or information at all. Typically these people fall off in massive storms when the boat is heeling to almost 90 degrees and at that point the only thing that can save you is a harness, which is typically attached to the guard rails. Guard rails save lives and it is the height of stupidity to not use them.
20:18 I work with fiberglass mainly on water rides at a theme park, nothing more fun, (in the most sarcastic way you can possibly take that), than grinding out your small de-lamination and just watching it grow and grow and grow. I love working with a 61 year old log flume and 41 year old rapids rafts! :(
I'm just gonna go ahead and say this. I'm fricking proud of you bro. I've been enjoying your content for years, since the FT days and seeing you take on such a monster of a project and see it through just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy.
Congratulations and job well-done! You went through some trials and tribulations, but it looks like you're super-happy and having fun. It's been a blast watching your videos through the years. I wish you the best of luck and everything else. Kick ass and take names man!
TotalBoat - All these years of watching creators use their products, this is the first time seeing it used on an actual boat! #BotalToatFTW - am I right Xyla
looking good be sure to keep in mind the weight of the modification you've made though. I've seen enough brickinmortar videos to know that taller exhaust stacks and load cranes have a huge effect on COG
@@tin2001 It is a lobster boat, so I assume its designed to acomodate the weight of a big stack of lobster pots. He should be good for the time being, but I realy hope he's keeping track of the weight cus you never know
A millwright here, I work with pumps with packing every day. If your unsure on packing tension it's really easy to set it to tight and burn out. If you're unsure if it's set to tight, check the stuffing box temps after a while of running. You can smoke put that packing in no time
I always backed them out on my tug until I had a steady drip, then inched them back tight until I had a very minor drip while running in gear. I would use the back of my palm on my engine room checks to make sure nothing was getting too hot.
There is a substantial drag component to that. Keel coolers really only used if operating in very shallow or turbid environments at low speeds. He's got a proper marine motor, treated right that engine will last 30 years. The heat exchanger loop ain't a big deal.
Hey Peter, I'm a machinist. Use cobalt drills. They will blow thru stainless, Titanium, steel. Etc. It will blow ur mind how easy drilling will be. Or solid carbide. Personally Cobalt is my pick. Knkut is one of my favorite companies for drill bits.
Solid carbide is the jam. Spade solid carbide drills are very inexpensive, they're perfect for jobs like this where you're doing only a few holes in a difficult material. I use them in the boat yard all the time. The ones that aren't good enough for drilling stainless are perfect for drilling through fiberglass.
my only negative about your tig welding is that you are getting too much heat into the stainless. once it turns grey, it is no longer stainless. you need to move a bit faster on you welds to make sure it still has some color in it. if that means you need to turn up the amps to weld faster, that is fine. welding time is your biggest enemy here, not the amperage.
To drill existing holes larger, first thread on the hole saw you want to step up to, then inside that thread on a hole saw according to the existing hole size. The inside smallrr hole saw will maintain a straight drill.
Great Job. I live in RI and tried to find the boat when I was in the Bristol area. Don’t listen to these Monday Morning Quarterback’s, you do you. Tight Lines, brother.
Zinc catalyzes reactions with(in) diesel fuel. So avoid using any materials with zinc which comes in contact with fuel. Copper is also a problem to a lesser extent. The Navy tried zinc plating in fuel tanks during the WWII era, and while it stopped rust, it did nasty things to fuel. Think varnishes like plastic coating everything in the system. Those manifolds have pretty small surface area, so it will probably be fine though. I believe tin plating is acceptable though.
Thank you Peter and your team for making me feel better today! On going health issue mean I can't do much right now, so to be able to watch you guys get on with a project and clearly enjoy what you do has been great. Keep it up. Thanks from the UK.
You've got the best attitude towards being a new boater. Caution and forethought are top priorities. Knowing your boat enough to troubleshoot and fix it puts you ahead of most. Things can and will go bad and compound fast, so predicting these things keeps everyone happy and alive longer. A reverse cycle AC will make life better, don't cheap out on some home depot junk there.
glad you mentioned the AC -- another reason it's a great idea is that humidity is your mortal enemy in boat interiors and having something that can remove it for you is super clutch.
Hey Peter, we have a piece of construction equipment with a similar exhaust flex pipe and ours was failing about every year or two, dumping very hot exhaust into the engine compartment. On ours, it wasn't installed great from the factory so the flexible part is always a little bent and under stress, which I think is why it was failing. If you keep it straight during installation and well supported during use (as another commenter said), it might be just fine. We couldn't effectively reroute it, so we replaced it with a less springy flex pipe, more in the spirit of a dryer duct, but obviously not a dryer duct. The new flex pipe was from a Grove RT750E crane, but I'm sure it's a readily available component.
When drilling stainless, you CANNOT let the drill bit idle or it will overheat the corners of the drill and dull it immediately. Use a sharp drill, lubrication to remove heat and make sure you are getting material coming off the drill bit right away (i.e. make sure you have some pressure on the drill). If you do dull the drill bit, STOP!. You can work harden many grades of SS which only makes the job much harder. Buy a new drill bit (or sharpen it if you know how) and try again.
"work hardening" is new to me, and i guess it was something i knew intuitively, but never realized there was a reason it was happening. I have had drill experiences like this. Now i know why. Wow.
Work hardening and heat treating are NOT the same thing. What you are talking about here is heat treating. Work hardening happens by plastic (permanent) deformation. Heat can also ruin things that are already heat-treated and will ruin springs.
It was like a movie! But knowing this is the only beginning of the journey, I feel so exciting. I really enjoyed watching from start to end. Thank you for sharing those footages at ocean. Thank you for your time. Looking forward to seeing more.
1:10 If you didn't build it with an oil change pump system you can still use a regular topside oil extractor. Takes a little while but it's not a big deal.
New drinking game idea! Take a shot every time Peter says "that's future me's problem!" Great content, Peter. I'm sure there are plenty of people out there that think your later content was boring or not flashy enough, but it's actually entertaining AND educational. Can't wait to see what's next!
Contaminated stainless steel will rust. After welding, you should treat it with a pickling paste. Also never use steel brushes or something on stainless.
That's also why you ideally use stainless screw bits to install stainless screws. Any microscopic bits of carbon steel or tool steel embedded in the stainless surface will act as starting points for rusting even if the rusting will in the beginning be mostly just cosmetic.
On the bottom of the hull where you found delamination you can just drill a few small holes just half way into the area and inject resin/hardener. Let it harden and it will make it solid. Go visit Jiggin with Jordan. He loves the underwater diving.
That's the hack way to do it. Those layers need to be intimately bonded together. The strength is in the fiberglass, not the epoxy. If the fiberglass is delaminated trying to jam epoxy in there and getting it to bond properly is not the way it's done.
On the light boards, you have to cover the epoxy with some sort of UV protective layer. For example, varnish or clearcoat polyurethane (preferably two part). The epoxy will yellow and dull 100 percent for sure. And this is true even if the epoxy claims to be UV resistant.
Thank you so much Peter, I was so totally entertained. I know it's a huge investment, but I think it was well spent. A true adventure that you will never forget. I want to do the same project some day. I hope you will be break down what you spent for us dummies who have similar dreams. Just the major things, like 1.used boat, 2. engine, 3. electronics 4. miscellaneous stuff estimate.
well done! I am from maine, downeaster is a way of life. By the time you can really complain of something boat related... look back at how many hours have gone by. Undoubtable is only an adjective that comes back as a reflection of your time. I look forward to your unique adventures.
One little thing that I found helpful. You’re going to get a ton of water on your windshield, If you’re having trouble seeing or the water is bothering you, put some rain-x water repellent.
Great video series Peter. You are a very determined man. It was great to see you and your partner enjoy a boating adventure after all that hard work and expense. You really did a fantastic job on that boat. In my opinion that's the only way if you want to feel safe. We've been travelling on our sailboat for 15 years with our kids. The boat work is a pain but it's a brilliant life!
Hey, you can use a tack cloth after you sand to get all that wood dust off before staining/sealing. Have no idea about electrical / boat stuff but a bit of carpentry I know!
LOVED the message in a bottle. E P I C ADVENTURE ! Thanks Dave for the awesome editing. Thanks Total Boat for the support. Thank you Lord for no explosions or sinking. Now, where is Lobster Boat Part V? 🙂
I love seeing an "overview" video for a project this large Peter. If/when you get tired of living in Florida, you MIGHT consider doing a "reverse" Great Loop video. Over 90% of loopers go counter-clockwise, they ALSO (mostly) take the Tenn-Tom waterway between Paducah and Mobile. You could do the lower Mississippi from the Gulf up to at least the Ohio River.
Nice! Have been waiting for this! One way to monitor the load on your engine is to look at your exhaust gas temperature, I'm guessing that is the load readout on that screen though. You've probably looked up constant max % but typically it's around 80% and can do 100% for half hour without trouble. Different between engine manufacturers and types obviously.
I got to spend some time on a few historic sailing ships as a kid, and they used a little brass trough filled with water to surround the stovepipes that passed through the galley roof or deck. It was a job to pour a bit of water in them on each watch to keep them cool. I think the trough was called a "Charlie Noble." Love seeing you get it seaworthy, never expected to see such a journey right out of the gate! Cheers, captain!
some helicopters do, the airbus h125 is one right off the top of my head. some ships do as well, they're usually called salvage bags and taken along when people aren't exactly confident in the integrity of the hull while put puttin it along to some other place for work. the reason all boats dont use em is because they've gotta be tough to survive 50+ tons of boat x unlimited force of the ocean and that makes them bulky, even when deflated and the required gas to fill them up is also another storage issue, the majority of smaller boats just have a foamed up hull that's basically semi impossible to sink without it taking on amazo amounts of water and then have back up of a back up of a backup of the back of of the water pump and 12v/24v marine batteries to run them.
18:23 Little tip for using a hole-saw to drill out to a larger size is to install the larger hole saw, then on the end of the mandrel, thread the original-size hole saw. The smaller size will act as a pilot point to ensure the larger hole saw cuts concentric :)
As a fabricator and TIG welder, when it comes to stainless steel and drilling, lube/cutting fluid yes BUT also control the heat, stainless doesn’t wick away the heat generated near as well as mild steel does. This means drill slow, OR pulse your hand drill like don’t run it wide open but more than a moment, then stop wait a second, then go at it again for just a moment. This will be faster believe it or not, and save your bit from being ruined.
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Hey Petah, The horse is here....
Jesus loves you❤
Your boat won't sink Peter. You guys are doing a great job!! 💪
@@Jesus-Loves-You_T, Amain!! And so does His and our FATHER in Heaven! John 3:16...
when welding on the floor its easier to sit indian style and run the pedal with the side of your foot.
Get some secondhand sail material at one of the marinas you dock at, turn it into a roll up awning and run it from the back of the cabin to the davit and you can cover your whole deck
Great idea!
We miss ya and Toby hanging around but are so happy to see the boat back on the water where it belongs!
love your epoxy i first found it on this channel as well
We will absolutely miss Peter, Toby, and Einstein
don't forget to get a radar diamond so other boats can actually see you on radar. it just makes it easier for other boats with radar to see your boat better. I used to work in Sooke BC at Marine search and rescue🥰
There are much better radar reflectors available than a simple diamond or a tubular stack of aluminum corners. Echomax (or similar) blow the simple reflectors out of the water. An order of magnitude better returns and from a much wider selection of angles.
@@wombatillo But a giant crumpled aluminum foil ball is almost free.
@@toolbaggers And it'll corrode and be full of rainwater and seagull poop.
@@wombatillo not if you cover it in fiberglass
@@tissuepaper9962 true but if you encase an aluminum diamond in ten square feet of glassfiber why not buy the $200-$300 actually optimized reflector with integral poop proofing?
1:04:39 That looks like it might be "Lovebug", a 122-foot, $8,000,000 yacht that sunk earlier this year! (there were no casualties, all 5 people were rescued thankfully) In your footage, it's actually being re-floated by Donjon Marine Co. for salvage, so it's technically "payday" for them lol
Gotta love the evolution of this channel, didn’t expect it to morph into a couples boat vlog but I’m here for it.
this is just the intro to his new addiction, making his own submersibles
Nobody does complete build videos paced with this much content in this amount of time on TH-cam anymore - even though they're the _best_ type of DIY build video. I'm not even a boat guy (can't recall which of your OG FT-era videos I got hooked on) and this was - by far - one of your best if not THE best video you've ever put out. For that matter, I'd say this is one of the best and most satisfying build videos I've seen on YT all year.
Congrats. Sure, some things might need some more fettling, but you've done a hell of a job not to mention a hell of a trip too. Bravo, Peter. Bravo.
We're thrilled that our boat monitor is working out for you, thanks for sharing! Honored to help you save lots of money, time, and headaches 🥳😆
You need one of those flappy diesel exhaust covers you see them on tractors and big rig sometimes.
I was thinking the same. Or a water catching arrangement that diverts it safely away from the engine. Probably too late for that now it's all pretty, so the flap might have to do.
Just needs a u bend or mushroom style cover, flap caps are annoying.
I'd keep the front hand rails. Just paint them black to reduce light glare.
Also, if possible, add more hand rails. Having lots of places to grab a hold of on the water is always useful.
Flat White. They'll get really hot if you paint them black.
but it look cool
@@faragar1791 I agree. They are there for a reason.
I had a Bayliner 288 last time, and the pulpit was huge, but did save me one winter.
One hand for the ship and one hand for yourself.😊
You can get matte anti glare tape for this exact purpose. It's a common problem not only for boats but also glare from bullbars and driving lights
I have been welding dirt circle track race car chassis together for 28 years, your welds are perfectly fine. They don't have to be the prettiest, they just have to penetrate right and not be contaminated.
Right on. Although with stainless you gotta be careful not to burn it too much because you’ll end up with Not-Stainless-Steel 😆
@@bloomstache3447 Very true
I don't have much to say, but I felt like I should share how much I liked this video.
I'm not sure exactly what made me like it so much but I've just spent the last 1h30 pretty much glued to my seat watching it.
Thank you for this, this was great.
$250 for a small bracket that should have been included with the original (already eye-wateringly expensive) product purchase........ I had no idea that Apple made boat stuff! 😁
The wooden navigation light thing you made is called a scatter board. It stops the light from scattering too far in any direction
also called a Light Board...
I’ve worked on Tugs for 8 years, and have always known them as just “light boards” or “nav light boards”
Also heard them referred to as "Light Boxes", but that may have also encompassed the whole unit when it had candles and mirrors.
Better than most recent MCU movies.
I can't wait for the sequel.
-and inevitable reboot, with William Osman playing the part of Peter. 😭😁
Finally the boat video you've been teasing us with, at long last I am complete
Right!? My favorite videos.
@1:19:00 Peter learns the old addage is true, "It's better to be on at the dock, wishing you were sailing, than to be sailing and wishing you were at the dock."
One of the main reasons you see stainless rust is from the hardware. People think stainless hardware is just good to go. What the don’t think about is the fact that all the tooling used to manufacture said hardware is made from steel. And the cutting oil used has steel micro shavings in it. To combat this. We always clean our hardware in a bucket of acetone first. Just dump it in the bucket. Swish it around a bit. Let it sit and then use it. The other reason it rusts is because people burn the welds in too hot and it burns the chromium out of it. Also. Remember. It’s stain”less”. Not stain “free”. (My dad always said that). One more thing to say. On your exhaust. You need a mount that goes from the pipe to the underside of the deck as close to the muffler side of the bellows joint as possible. Just the weight of the pipe will be enough to crack that bellows flex pipe. I’ve seen it main times. I live on vinalhaven island. One of the largest producers of lobster !!
Also if you don't treat the welded areas they will rust, those heatmarks you get, you can use picled nitric acid to clean those heatmarks off.
Do you guys ship them to texas?
Peter, to fix the damage caused from running aground, you might want to cover it with aluminum, it would help with preventing major damage from running aground and keep your paint job safer. Or use stainless steel, your choice.
39:20 was NOT expecting that sound effect 😂
perfectly timed to..
I don't need to jump to the scene to know which one you mean 😂
Laughed my ass off
Dude this is freaking sick! It’s obvious you love working on this and every second of the video showed passion, keep up the awesome work!
I was a lobsterman for years. That exhaust pipe is usually uninsulated. When you are out lobstering in the winter, and your hands start to freeze, you grab onto that exhaust pipe to thaw your hands out.
No one knows why people are arguing in here against me
@@DavidIvan-AC you aren't cool
@@DavidIvan-ACcringe no rizz
@@DavidIvan-AC I know another myth and that is you ever going to get a girlfriend Mr cringe no rizz do you think a guy that literally worked on a big boat would lie the only the exhaust you are thinking about is a car or a small engine exhaust that is only a foot long yes it would be hot and he probably didn't actually grab on to it for very long and probably just held there hands near the exhaust
@@minecraftnoob4273lol😂
Dude, I'm a licensed captain and IMHO you did REALLY well. Waves are WAY bigger in real life than they appear on camera. Knipex are awesome!
So I know you don't want to hear this, but when you're patching a hole that deep in structural fiberglass you need to have 2 inches of overhang on every single lair. So if that boat is 8 layers thick. And I assume you patched 6. Your 6" patch would be first, then a square patch 10x10", 14x14, 18x18.. and so on. THAT'S why people usually write off fiberglass damage, it's much more work than just building a plug.
Will that plug crack around the edge of the hole?
the way he did it most likely eventually @@mikemulligan5731
Yep
Very possibly @@mikemulligan5731
Actually it’s the other way around. Might seem counter intuitive, but you start with the largest piece and the build thickness with smaller and smaller pieces.
th-cam.com/video/6N7YMr6E564/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Get yourself a prop line cutter. Forget all about the shearing or sawing versions and go with the PropProtector Line Cutter brand. It's a simple circular knife which comes in slide on or a two piece clamp on version which can be installed without removing the prop. I had one on a displacement cruiser. My wife and traveled 28000 miles on that boat and we never had a fouled prop because of crab pot lines or any other line. It's important to keep your single engine boat under power at all times. When your one and only engine stops for any reason, you are automatically in trouble, so cover all your bases. I consider a line cutter mandatory and I can testify that the simple knife style cutter is very effective.
Yeah, tip for the dry-docked, if it ain't bolted down, take it home or lock it up. 😮
This made me genuinely happy to wait and then sit and watch all the way through. 10/10 more long distance boating vlogs. Loved this!
Cool trip.
Those worms are cinder worms. That’s a hatch and spawn you encountered.
Stripers love eating them.
DO NOT drink a shot everytime he says doohickey, i tried and am now writing from hospital
for the hole under the boat, you should have ground a border edge that was at least 6 to 10 inches where the repair fibergl overlaps the border not just fill a hole in!
The hole under the boat is where the money goes. You have to leave that open.
Hey Mate,
I am part of the Sailing communities and I have 1 bit of essentual advice for you.
Please reinstall those hand rails or install a replacement hand rail.
A large portion of people I know have stories of people been washed over board and lost at sea - accidents always happen not on a calm day when you can turn the boat around but in bad weather and at night (and trust me trying to find a human in in water is hard - you are essentually looking for a Basketball bobbing in the waves)
Those hand rails are increadibly important because no matter how many hand holds you may have on the hull of your boat when a wave hits and you are falling off the boat you are trying to grab the nearest thing which will always be the hand rail around the edge of the boat (and as a bonus your body will hit the hand rail)
Finally, you have a dog and a hand rail with is a great way to discourage a dog from doing the usual thing of sticking it's head over the water and then falling into the water.
For your safety please consider putting some hand rails back on (even painted black/matte)
I guarantee you the boats those people fell off of had handrails lmao...
@@aggrogator4045 You are completely missing the point.
Firstly, early on - 70s, 80s and 90s the safety regulation were a lot more lax which resulted in many cases where guard rails were not installed/partially installed on a boat - and there are many stories of sailors been lost because of that.
There are also hundreds of stories of people who are alive or have had close calls becuase of a Guard been in place so they were able to grab onto it or had their body/harness hit it.
Secondly, if you think because people do fall over board with guard rails attached then said rails are useless then you are failing to take into account any context or information at all. Typically these people fall off in massive storms when the boat is heeling to almost 90 degrees and at that point the only thing that can save you is a harness, which is typically attached to the guard rails.
Guard rails save lives and it is the height of stupidity to not use them.
20:18 I work with fiberglass mainly on water rides at a theme park, nothing more fun, (in the most sarcastic way you can possibly take that), than grinding out your small de-lamination and just watching it grow and grow and grow. I love working with a 61 year old log flume and 41 year old rapids rafts! :(
With Alex Hibbert's Alan lifeboat expedition conversion project sold off, this is exactly what I need in my life. keep it going!
did he already sell Alan? I didn't know he'd found a buyer!
@@0xKruzr I'm pretty sure he mentioned a buyer in a video but I cant find it. I know its dry docked and has most of his stuff stripped out
I'm just gonna go ahead and say this. I'm fricking proud of you bro. I've been enjoying your content for years, since the FT days and seeing you take on such a monster of a project and see it through just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy.
Hey Peter, great job graduation on your boat. Still need to do some work on it extras but it looks amazing. It’s like a project that never ends. 😂❤👍🇨🇦
Using rockwool for the exhaust is a good idea, ships in indonesia uses it but they would wrap the rosckwool on the exhaust like wrapping a burrito
Rockwool should be a great choice, it doesn't really absorb water, although marine environments usually find a weakness in any material.
Congratulations and job well-done! You went through some trials and tribulations, but it looks like you're super-happy and having fun. It's been a blast watching your videos through the years. I wish you the best of luck and everything else. Kick ass and take names man!
TotalBoat - All these years of watching creators use their products, this is the first time seeing it used on an actual boat! #BotalToatFTW - am I right Xyla
Xyla used it on her cedar canoe and her clear fibreglass Kayak! 😂
Same
@Tomd8002 - ahh, very good points :)
I thought TotalBoat was just for woodworking projects lol.
Their wet edge paint is about as good as it gets. Comparable to interlux 1 part paint.
looking good
be sure to keep in mind the weight of the modification you've made though.
I've seen enough brickinmortar videos to know that taller exhaust stacks and load cranes have a huge effect on COG
I kept thinking the same thing with every little extra being added up high or taken away down low.
I hope we never see a forced colab video...
@@tin2001 lmao, hopefully not a colab that needs to happen
@@tin2001 It is a lobster boat, so I assume its designed to acomodate the weight of a big stack of lobster pots.
He should be good for the time being, but I realy hope he's keeping track of the weight cus you never know
A millwright here, I work with pumps with packing every day. If your unsure on packing tension it's really easy to set it to tight and burn out. If you're unsure if it's set to tight, check the stuffing box temps after a while of running. You can smoke put that packing in no time
I always backed them out on my tug until I had a steady drip, then inched them back tight until I had a very minor drip while running in gear. I would use the back of my palm on my engine room checks to make sure nothing was getting too hot.
Peter, congratulations on making it to Florida!
This episode has the best music.
Your Cummins has a great sound.
Building a "keel cooler" for the motor also works so you can just run regular coolant in the motor. No sea water entering the boat.
There is a substantial drag component to that. Keel coolers really only used if operating in very shallow or turbid environments at low speeds. He's got a proper marine motor, treated right that engine will last 30 years. The heat exchanger loop ain't a big deal.
@@otm646 kind of wild to think about how incredibly durable these motors are.
I have been following this series since you bought the boat its so awesome to see the progression of it and to see it finally finished!
Hey Peter, I'm a machinist. Use cobalt drills. They will blow thru stainless, Titanium, steel. Etc. It will blow ur mind how easy drilling will be. Or solid carbide. Personally Cobalt is my pick. Knkut is one of my favorite companies for drill bits.
Solid carbide is the jam. Spade solid carbide drills are very inexpensive, they're perfect for jobs like this where you're doing only a few holes in a difficult material. I use them in the boat yard all the time. The ones that aren't good enough for drilling stainless are perfect for drilling through fiberglass.
my only negative about your tig welding is that you are getting too much heat into the stainless. once it turns grey, it is no longer stainless. you need to move a bit faster on you welds to make sure it still has some color in it. if that means you need to turn up the amps to weld faster, that is fine. welding time is your biggest enemy here, not the amperage.
A 1 and a half hour Petersripol video? Das ist wundebar, other people being plunged into eternal debt is so much fun
Das boot ist wunderbar.
1:01:50 I would expect nothing less from you 😆, that's sick! You missed a VPN sponsor integration tho 🤣
To drill existing holes larger, first thread on the hole saw you want to step up to, then inside that thread on a hole saw according to the existing hole size. The inside smallrr hole saw will maintain a straight drill.
Oh I will use this! Thx.
Awesome tip. I'll have to remember that.
Great Job. I live in RI and tried to find the boat when I was in the Bristol area.
Don’t listen to these Monday Morning Quarterback’s, you do you.
Tight Lines, brother.
Epic! Well done to your Gfriend she is a champ!!
Boat I put hundreds of hours into building spotted at 1:13:25, Badass!
Zinc catalyzes reactions with(in) diesel fuel. So avoid using any materials with zinc which comes in contact with fuel. Copper is also a problem to a lesser extent. The Navy tried zinc plating in fuel tanks during the WWII era, and while it stopped rust, it did nasty things to fuel. Think varnishes like plastic coating everything in the system. Those manifolds have pretty small surface area, so it will probably be fine though. I believe tin plating is acceptable though.
Peter, I dont see people talking about what a chad you are for making this one long video. We've been asking and you delivered hardcore. Mad Respect
First time I see creator use Total Boat for an actual BOAT. Nice one!
Xyla has made a few boats with it
@choahjinhuay oh, yeah, you are right! totally forgot about it - it was a while (and the boats were small'ish)
So many boats like acorn to Arabella and like thousands more on the TotalBoat TH-cam channel
Thank you Peter and your team for making me feel better today! On going health issue mean I can't do much right now, so to be able to watch you guys get on with a project and clearly enjoy what you do has been great. Keep it up. Thanks from the UK.
You've got the best attitude towards being a new boater. Caution and forethought are top priorities. Knowing your boat enough to troubleshoot and fix it puts you ahead of most. Things can and will go bad and compound fast, so predicting these things keeps everyone happy and alive longer. A reverse cycle AC will make life better, don't cheap out on some home depot junk there.
glad you mentioned the AC -- another reason it's a great idea is that humidity is your mortal enemy in boat interiors and having something that can remove it for you is super clutch.
1:12:28 hahaha great shot! Wow, to see this boat in the water finally is nothing short of awe-inspiring!
Surprising to see someone use TotalBoat on an actual boat for once
Hey Peter, we have a piece of construction equipment with a similar exhaust flex pipe and ours was failing about every year or two, dumping very hot exhaust into the engine compartment. On ours, it wasn't installed great from the factory so the flexible part is always a little bent and under stress, which I think is why it was failing. If you keep it straight during installation and well supported during use (as another commenter said), it might be just fine. We couldn't effectively reroute it, so we replaced it with a less springy flex pipe, more in the spirit of a dryer duct, but obviously not a dryer duct. The new flex pipe was from a Grove RT750E crane, but I'm sure it's a readily available component.
When drilling stainless, you CANNOT let the drill bit idle or it will overheat the corners of the drill and dull it immediately. Use a sharp drill, lubrication to remove heat and make sure you are getting material coming off the drill bit right away (i.e. make sure you have some pressure on the drill). If you do dull the drill bit, STOP!. You can work harden many grades of SS which only makes the job much harder. Buy a new drill bit (or sharpen it if you know how) and try again.
"work hardening" is new to me, and i guess it was something i knew intuitively, but never realized there was a reason it was happening. I have had drill experiences like this. Now i know why. Wow.
Work hardening and heat treating are NOT the same thing. What you are talking about here is heat treating.
Work hardening happens by plastic (permanent) deformation.
Heat can also ruin things that are already heat-treated and will ruin springs.
This turned out to be a beautiful boat, and it's so unique. You should be proud of it!
It was like a movie! But knowing this is the only beginning of the journey, I feel so exciting. I really enjoyed watching from start to end. Thank you for sharing those footages at ocean. Thank you for your time. Looking forward to seeing more.
1:10 If you didn't build it with an oil change pump system you can still use a regular topside oil extractor. Takes a little while but it's not a big deal.
An hour and a half of boat content is like christmas for me.
New drinking game idea! Take a shot every time Peter says "that's future me's problem!"
Great content, Peter. I'm sure there are plenty of people out there that think your later content was boring or not flashy enough, but it's actually entertaining AND educational. Can't wait to see what's next!
Contaminated stainless steel will rust. After welding, you should treat it with a pickling paste. Also never use steel brushes or something on stainless.
That's also why you ideally use stainless screw bits to install stainless screws. Any microscopic bits of carbon steel or tool steel embedded in the stainless surface will act as starting points for rusting even if the rusting will in the beginning be mostly just cosmetic.
If I had a doohickey for every time Peter said "doohickey" in this video
I saw the Peanut Butter holder on the wall and I AM SOLD!
Dammm 6 hours ago. Time traveler
Never leave port without your emergency peanut butter.
I was looking forward to this all day and was not disappointed. The completion of a rad project, dogs and a bucket list trip all in one. Bravo
On the bottom of the hull where you found delamination you can just drill a few small holes just half way into the area and inject resin/hardener. Let it harden and it will make it solid. Go visit Jiggin with Jordan. He loves the underwater diving.
That's the hack way to do it. Those layers need to be intimately bonded together. The strength is in the fiberglass, not the epoxy. If the fiberglass is delaminated trying to jam epoxy in there and getting it to bond properly is not the way it's done.
@@otm646 Guy is an ex-Oceangate tech.
On the light boards, you have to cover the epoxy with some sort of UV protective layer. For example, varnish or clearcoat polyurethane (preferably two part). The epoxy will yellow and dull 100 percent for sure. And this is true even if the epoxy claims to be UV resistant.
Epic video. It's great to see the realization of a dream, and I'm happy to see you found someone to share your adventures with. Congrats Peter!
Thank you so much Peter, I was so totally entertained. I know it's a huge investment, but I think it was well spent. A true adventure that you will never forget. I want to do the same project some day. I hope you will be break down what you spent for us dummies who have similar dreams. Just the major things, like 1.used boat, 2. engine, 3. electronics 4. miscellaneous stuff estimate.
"When i take this HAMMER and tap it" -taps with screwdriver.
Should we be worried?
No, because that's the hammer part of a screwdriver. But you only unlock that knowledge at meister level.
well done! I am from maine, downeaster is a way of life. By the time you can really complain of something boat related... look back at how many hours have gone by. Undoubtable is only an adjective that comes back as a reflection of your time.
I look forward to your unique adventures.
Holy moly, at first I thought this was 13 minutes video, not 1 hour 30 minutes 😂
One little thing that I found helpful. You’re going to get a ton of water on your windshield, If you’re having trouble seeing or the water is bothering you, put some rain-x water repellent.
I love the boat series! Can't wait to see what you do with it next.
it's so weird seeing totalboat products actually being used on a boat for once!
I can tell editing this was hell
Great video series Peter. You are a very determined man. It was great to see you and your partner enjoy a boating adventure after all that hard work and expense. You really did a fantastic job on that boat. In my opinion that's the only way if you want to feel safe. We've been travelling on our sailboat for 15 years with our kids. The boat work is a pain but it's a brilliant life!
Hey, you can use a tack cloth after you sand to get all that wood dust off before staining/sealing. Have no idea about electrical / boat stuff but a bit of carpentry I know!
you continue to inspire a generation of engineers and makers!
39:08 the baby bird caught me off guard LMAO
LOVED the message in a bottle. E P I C ADVENTURE ! Thanks Dave for the awesome editing. Thanks Total Boat for the support. Thank you Lord for no explosions or sinking. Now, where is Lobster Boat Part V?
🙂
congratulations on a very impressive job navigating to Florida
I love seeing an "overview" video for a project this large Peter. If/when you get tired of living in Florida, you MIGHT consider doing a "reverse" Great Loop video. Over 90% of loopers go counter-clockwise, they ALSO (mostly) take the Tenn-Tom waterway between Paducah and Mobile. You could do the lower Mississippi from the Gulf up to at least the Ohio River.
spread that cotter pin on the prop!
1:02:29
that's what she said
Nice! Have been waiting for this!
One way to monitor the load on your engine is to look at your exhaust gas temperature, I'm guessing that is the load readout on that screen though.
You've probably looked up constant max % but typically it's around 80% and can do 100% for half hour without trouble. Different between engine manufacturers and types obviously.
Well you have pretty much done 1/3 of America's Great Loop. Are you going to do the whole loop sometime?
I got to spend some time on a few historic sailing ships as a kid, and they used a little brass trough filled with water to surround the stovepipes that passed through the galley roof or deck. It was a job to pour a bit of water in them on each watch to keep them cool. I think the trough was called a "Charlie Noble." Love seeing you get it seaworthy, never expected to see such a journey right out of the gate! Cheers, captain!
I’ve always wondered why boats don’t have automatic airbags to keep them from sinking.
some helicopters do, the airbus h125 is one right off the top of my head.
some ships do as well, they're usually called salvage bags and taken along when people aren't exactly confident in the integrity of the hull while put puttin it along to some other place for work.
the reason all boats dont use em is because they've gotta be tough to survive 50+ tons of boat x unlimited force of the ocean and that makes them bulky, even when deflated and the required gas to fill them up is also another storage issue, the majority of smaller boats just have a foamed up hull that's basically semi impossible to sink without it taking on amazo amounts of water and then have back up of a back up of a backup of the back of of the water pump and 12v/24v marine batteries to run them.
@ That’s a really cool explanation. Thanks! I’m a commercial pilot with helo time and I’ve seen a few airbags on skids around. 🙂
Learned something new today, thanks!
Same reason airplanes don't have parachutes. 💸💸💸
Actually some do. I used to fly one
18:23 Little tip for using a hole-saw to drill out to a larger size is to install the larger hole saw, then on the end of the mandrel, thread the original-size hole saw. The smaller size will act as a pilot point to ensure the larger hole saw cuts concentric :)
I LITERALLLY SUBSCRIBED BECAUSE OF THE BOAT PROJECT, FINALLLLY!!!!
NOW YOU'RE TALKING. MORE BOATS MORE BOATS MORE BOATS PETERRRRRRRR!
Great adventure! Thanks for taking us along! Fair winds and following seas, my friend!
The ocean gate meme is crazy😂😂😂😂. Wait and when did he get a girl?
Okay smart boy, you’ve removed hand rails, now tell me how are you going to hang your fenders?
I've been waiting for this fucking boat.
As a fabricator and TIG welder, when it comes to stainless steel and drilling, lube/cutting fluid yes BUT also control the heat, stainless doesn’t wick away the heat generated near as well as mild steel does. This means drill slow, OR pulse your hand drill like don’t run it wide open but more than a moment, then stop wait a second, then go at it again for just a moment. This will be faster believe it or not, and save your bit from being ruined.
You could have done a wet exhaust. Easier to do and cool, not all that heat that youre fighting with.
Not to mention much quieter.
@@otm646 much ,much ,quieter.