and I'll bet you did a better job too. Well done. It's gratifying to know that the way I structure my tutorials enables people to follow them through. It was the proliferation of half-arsed shakey tutorials that got me started in the first place.
Hello, What really helped me: -Removing the bumper -Bending the AC pipes (carefully, not too much) -Loosening the plastic holder for the radiator & condenser on the top plastic crossmember -Pushing the condenser, pulling the radiator while lying down (5:30) For me, disassembly took 3 hours and installation took 2 hours The video is great, it helped a lot. Thank you!
Thanks so much for this very clear and helpful video. I'm writing from Brisbane Australia and today I successfully swapped out the radiator of my daughter, Ruby's Fiesta, based totally on the tips and insights of this video, which removed the guess-work of a job I had not previously encountered.... Many thanks again. I saved plenty of cash and gained great satisfaction of a job well done.... Time taken approx 2 hours for me... Cheers to all... Geoff and Ruby
Thank you! Had a fox go thru my radiator on a motorway of all places, leading to catastrophic coolant and oil loss (oil filter too). This video helped me replace it during lockdown. I’ve never repaired a car before, and this video gave me the confidence to do it.
it was only my mistake, I installed my radiator upside down and was wondering why my hoses wont fit hahah it took me an hour to figure it out, but now its all good, thanks for the video and great tips.
Thanks bud for this, everyone else makes it look very complicated. My misses radiator popped a crack whilst driving around. Luckily, we were 10 minutes from home, so I was able to coast it home. She has a Fiesta 2007 so this is a massive help, gonna be changing it on the weekend
Thanks for the tutorial! I just completed my 2005 Fiesta, I must say though I haven't sworn that much in a long time not to mention having my arms all cut up. Took me all day just to remove the condenser from the old radiator once that was done it was a real pain to get everything to click and mount together. Still though at the end of it all I had the biggest smile on my face, love doing my own work.
Wow, it took me 2 1/2 hours incl the filming❗ But hey, don't feel bad - it's not a competition.What matters is that you saw it through to completion, did a good job, saved some money and got personal satisfaction from doing so. Well done 👍👍
Un grande grazie dall' Italia il tuo video mi ha aiutato tantissimo e fatto risparmiare denaro tutto eseguito in 3 h con molta calma cambiando entrambi i radiatori anche aria condizionata tutto ora funziona alla grande 💪 bravissimo
Great tutorial. WIthout seeing how you seperated the radiator would have been phaffing for a long time. Nice work thankyou. 1 hour to complete. (not including testing).
Thank you for doing this video my rad needed replacement I never done it before but took me an hour and half with the advice and steps from the video 🙏 u have another subscriber
In small, DIY type quantities, yes. Never let it down surface drains. If you have somewhere local that will accpet it for recycling, this is preferable of course.
Finally got the job done. Separating the AC condenser from the radiator was a bit of a struggle and involved two of us lying underneath the car. My first advice is to understand clearly how these two parts connect to each other before starting. I watched Cyd's video in detail many times. Completely remove the two screws which fasten the lower bungs in place. Secondly, I suggest having one person assisting rather from above and the the other from below. Thirdly and most importantly, clean and lubricate the areas where the two parts join to each other. Sticky oil and dust deposits make it difficult to slide them apart. After separating them, you can further clean the mating areas. Getting them back together was a lot easier, my son underneath and me guiding the upper connections from above. Note that when sliding them apart or together again, the bottom of the combination must be tilted towards the vehicle rear, and once together, must be carefully pushed up into the top bung recesses before being able to tilt the lower edges back over onto the hard plastic base into which the lower spigots and bungs fit. The top bungs become hard as they age, so I trimmed a gentle bevel around the top rim and let the some machine oil soak into this rim the night before. This made it more pliable and able to squeeze into the recesses. Be patient and don't try to force anything. Note that I probably could have done the job on my own, but having an assistant made it much easier. Good Luck @gakhal6
I couldn't find the drain plug on my radiator and thought the bleed screw was the one where it looks like a tyre valve on top of the black plastic adjacent to the right indicator in the headlamp. But i can see where you reached down to take the cap off the bleed valve. Mines a diesel fiesta mk6.5. I will have a look again in the morning to see if i can find it.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks to you, i looked in the area of the radiator where you put your hand towards in your video and sure enough, i found the bleed screw. I have now succesfully drained/flushed the old coolant out of the engine block, hoses, heater core and radiator using tap water from garden hose. I then flushed and rinsed the tap water out of all the above mentioned with deionised water. I then flushed out the deionised water with blower and reconnected some of yhe hoses. Filled with new 50/50 antifreeze mixture in a way that the new coolant stayed in situ in the hoses, radiator and heater core as i had to fit a new thermostat with its housing. After thermostat fitted and all hoses reconnected i filled new coolant at the header tank with heater dial on hot and coolant bleed screw open. After the air was expelled i closed bleed valve and filled header tank to max line with new coolant and started the engine. Rev to 3000 rpm for 2 or 3 mins with heater on hot setting then topped up to max line again. Repeated the rev procedure once more after this. In the morning,when engine was cold, i topped up to max line and thankfully level has not dropped. I was worried about the radiator high speed fan not coming on and thought it could be the fuses, relays, fan resistor or wiring but i found if i put ac on, the low speed fan worked so fan resitor was fine. To find issue i went into the secret menu in the clocks and i could get digital read of engine temp in degrees celcius. I found if i let the Mk6.5 Fiesta 1.6 tdci hit 95 degrees or above, thats when high speed fan kicks in so all is good for now. They just run a bit hot.
Hi, my partner had his coolant done by the local garage but a few days later his engine light has come on again. Coolant level seems fine but he can't see a minimum or maximum level on it. It's his first car so he knows very little. The garage said everything else was fine with the car.
Hi Kim, thanks for watching and for interacting. The coolant tank does have min and max markings but you're right, they are very hard to see. Try shining a light through the bottle to see them. About half full is somewhere near correct anyway. If by 'engine light' you're referring to the EML light (also known as DTC - looks like my channel profile pic), then you really need to read the code that's stored. The light on it's own could mean a thousand things. You could go to a garage and they'll probably charge you 30+vat just to read the code OR you can download Torque Pro to your phone for 3 quid and buy one of these adapters (amzn.to/2m439QG) and read it yourself. Take a screenshot of the code and then clear it and see if the light comes back on. Read the code again and see if it's the same one.
@@CycloneCyd awesome thanks! We found the min/max line but seems we have a leak as the coolant had gone down a few inches in a day or 2. We'll download the app as well😁
The part where you slide out the radiator from the condenser is the most difficult part. Especially when putting it back in. Too bad there is not inside footage of that part. How do you get the top spigots into their guides?
Hi Cyclone Cyd, that's a great video, I am however having trouble getting my fan back onto the radiator. There does not seem to be enough space to lift the fan onto the upper clips. Do you have any suggestions?
@@CycloneCyd I did have the same issue. With the left side clip. I had to remove the left headlight. That way, I had space to push the clip open with a screwdriver. And that small extra clearance between the clip going up or at an angle was enough to make it fit. I must say that the engineers that made this car are bastards. The car is full of little details and choices that are only there to make the life of the average owner miserable, if they dare to do any mechanical work on it. Even for the oil change, you need the special tool to get the filter out. And you better be prepared if you choose to do anything else. It gets pretty painful pretty quick. And if you go to the dealer, more of the same, every job is harder than it should, so pay up those extra hours of the mechanic disassembling things just to access a funky screw, or the plastic clip. It should not be that way. Not at all...
I was just wondering if this radiator is the same radiator used for the AC unit. Because my AC is pumping cold air, but not cold enough and my mechanic said that we might have to replace the front radiator. Does this make any sense?
Hi there I have a petrol 1.6fiesta 2005 and my coolant Reservoir has bubbles around the cap, and the coolant is bubbling slightly. Is this a sign of headgasket problems or just need to get air out the pipe?
My pipes keep bursting, so I wonder if the engine is getting too hot, or whether there are air locks, or whether I am not filling the system properly and there may be too much air still in the system? I worry that it is an issue with me filling the system, so some advice on how to do this properly would be great. I have a Haynes manual too, which talks about the bleed valve, but I am not sure whether this is working properly.
Hiya, need to do a complete radiator replacement on my fiesta, do you by any chance know the part number for the lower rubber radiator footing? (It’s the smaller one that sits inside the bigger circular one, the one you popped out with your screwdriver) Thanks!
Hi. I'm wanting to replace the condenser only (empty ac system). Do I need to drain the radiator system or can I get the condenser off without worrying about the radiator system?
Thanks for this video. Last night I started my car when I didn't notice it was in gear and it caused my car to slam into the Woden posts in front. Lost of parts broke off from underneath but I don't know what they were. Turns out is was just the airflow panels behind the lower grill, nothing too expensive and important, thankfully. I did snap off some of the clips which hold the bumper, so it is a little lose now. Any tips on how to do a quick fix on the lower clip (as seen at 4:19 on this video, the red clip from the bumper) to keep the bumper from being loose?
Ooops! Who amongst us hasn't been there though! At least it doesn't sound too bad. It's my son's car and he's out in it today - I'll try and remember to have a look for you if / when he returns. I suspect though that long strong tie wraps are gonna be your best friend here. Do let us know how you get on.
Cyclone Cyd Thanks! I did a bit of cable tie work and replaced the airflow shroud and the bumper seems to be good now. Most of the loss of support of the bumper was from the missing parts on the airflow shroud anyway so the cable ties were not entirely necessary, but they atleast helped.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks for the suggestion! I don't have the car anymore but I appreciate it anyway. At least I know what to look for in the future if something similar happens.
Hi again the radiator I bought has the two hose ends in one side and two drain bleeder on the other can I continue or do I need to return the radiator and get one that has two hose pipes on separate sides
Hi bofinio1, thanks for watching and interacting. Welcome aboard. are you sure? According to Wiki, sales of Fiesta started in Mexico in 2011, which is the mk7, the next generation after this one.
Hi, sorry my Fiesta is 2006 almost similar that video...but my car was made in Brasil ... and I see some parts are diferents (air filter etc) and the radiator it come out and not below... best regard
Thank you for this video-I've just removed my radiator with the help of your video. I will install the new one tomorrow. I have a quick question.. How often should the fan come on? Also my AC doesn't work so when I put it on (ac button is lit up) will this stop the fan from working when the ac is on? My cars Air con has never worked in the 6 years I've had the car. Will this affect the fan coming on?
Hi , just tried to do mine undone everything, feet undone and the locking pins but just cant get it to drop and I cant see where the clip to separate the condenser as i think that's the only thing holding it . It feels like it's all 1 piece and connected?
Nicely explained. It would work similar with a 1.4 diesel engine, right? I'm expecting a new radiator today. Think I'll remove the bumper to get easier access though.
I'm not familiar with the diesel but I would imagine it's very similar if not the same. I'm not sure that removing the bumper will gain much, but if you do and it does, please let us know. Thanks for watching and interacting
@@CycloneCyd so, everything is exactly the same for a 1.4 tdci engine. I did remove the bumper and actually did gain easier access but in return, to remove the bumper you also have to remove the fenders at the wheels on both sides which is also a struggle (without removing the tires, which I didn't do). So on the plus side: less chance to damage the brand new radiator, on the down side: a lot more effort. Thanks for the video!
I must confess to being a bit stuck myself for what to suggest. If this was a question on a forum I'd normally direct the questioner to my video, lol! A somewhat circular exercise in this instance
@@CycloneCyd Not to worry, I ended up not bothering with them.. just put the grill on over it, the car appearance wise is totally trashed anyway. long as it gets me from a to b is what i care about and it being my first car too. I bust the rad by hitting another car (oops!) being 19 insurance is crazy high especially now i have had an accident You have saved me few hundred quid at least so i do appreciate this tutorial a lot! Like & Subbed
@@TheCjbbb Good man, that's using your noddle! It's unlikely to be a problem in the UK climate (assuming your UK based), but keep one eye on the temp guage if you get stuck in traffic on a stinking hot day (30+). I'm gonna try and get some more Fez stuff out this summer.
Thank you for this excellent video! Would you recommend flushing the coolant every few years and adding some new or should you never replace the coolant/antifreeze? Thanks in advance sir.
The anti corrosion properties of the coolant reduce over time, so yes it should be periodically flushed and replaced. Always mix with deionised water. Blue or green = 2yrs Pink or red = 5yrs Purple = 10yrs
Just wondering y when I topped my coolant back up it only took 3.5 liters when pose to take 5 liters I just changed my coolant not radiator bye undoing bleeder screw drain plug any ideas y
Hello, I am a first time car owner and I am planning to tackle changing my ford fiesta mk6 bumper, crash bar and front panel. What tools would you recommend and as an inexperienced mechanic is it possible for me to do this or should i take it to a garage? Thank you
Joshua Martin I just did a similar repair, you absolutely need a 10mm socket with an extender, also have some long zip ties. You need a T30 torx bit to remove the headlights (not essential) and a T25 torx bit to remove the wheel arch liners, these parts are removed so you can access bolts for the bumper Regarding the crash bar, be careful as it’s structural, I haven’t personally replaced this part.
Thank you for this video! I have checked my radiator and noticed the fins are all corroded and can be squished when pushed with a little pressure. I am wondering if this means I should replace the radiator or if this isn't detrimental? Thanks for any advice :)
Hi Claire, the fins on the rad are delicate but if they appear to be corroded and fall away easily then I would say yes, replace the radiator. If the fins are badly corroded it probably means the waterways are corroded too and it will one day spring a leak. If you drive the car mostly local to home, this may not matter too much - you can always limp home or get a friend to tow you. But you can almost guarantee it'll happen that one time you're 200 miles from home and the inconvenience will be considerable. My crystal ball is no better than anyone elses - you could leave it and it may last years yet. The whole job will cost around £50 and less than half a day on your drive, so on the balance of probabilities, it's time and money well spent.
Another consideration, Claire, is that unless you've had the car for years, you don't know if it's ever had a coolant refresh or a previous issue and the mixture is weak, leading to internal corrosion.
Thank you for the detailed reply :). I bought the car about 4 years ago and the coolant reservoir cracked which a garage replaced and I noticed there is pink coolant in there. One thing you did in the video was using the blower and you said something about leaving the fan on. Does this mean to flush the coolant with the fan and old radiator or am I getting the wrong end of the stick? Sorry, I have a feeling that was a silly question!
🎓 pay attention at the back of class now! 🎓But seriously .... I was using the blower because I'd already removed the radiator fan from the car. You should run a flush before you remove the radiator fan!!! Schoolboy error on my part!!The other fan I referred to was the heater fan inside the car - if during flushing the engine temperature rises you can put this on full to help control the temp.Yes, flush with the old rad in place. If you put the new rad in first, you potentially contaminate the new rad (which of course will be perfectly clean!!)No such thing as a silly question, only silly answers. We learn by asking. Never be embarressed to ask questions, nor apologise for asking.
@@CycloneCyd thank you :) I appreciate the patience and your explanation. Is there any particular anti freeze to use? I have the 1.4 duratec petrol engine and everytime I look online it comes up with the ford branded anti freeze. Even when looking in ECP they don't seem to recommend the AF you use when I put the reg in. Is this AF okay for my engine? It is much cheaper but if its not right I would rather pay extra. Also, when running the engine to help flush the system how long do you run it for? Thanks again
hello sir .. i have to change my radiator's hoses (the upper and the lower ) for my fiesta MKV duratec 1.2 petrol and the cost of the original ones is too important ; so i m thinking to buy the adaptable version...my question : is there a big difference between the original and the adaptable hoses (i mean in qualily)??? or the adaptable are as acceptable as the orignal even they are cheaper the the original??? thank you
Hi Aymen, I'm not sure what you mean by 'adaptable'. Do you mean lengths of straight hose that you cut to lenght to fit? Have you got a link to them? If yes, then as long as they are from a recognised brand I'd go for it. Cheap counterfeit knockoffs are the thing to watch out for. Heat and pressure deteriorate them real fast.
I own a mk6 1.4 and when I drive fast with it, smoke starts coming out meaning its over heating so would it be ideal for me to get a track radiator as they are saying 40% reduction in engine over heating.
This may seem very random but I just bought a ford fiesta myself, I've had it for 3 weeks and im having a few problems already. The car kept over heating and then I realized It was because there was a crack in the expansion tank which I have now changed but the car is still over heating so im not sure what it is, also to add to that now the engine warning light has come on :( I have read online it could be due to a number of things and the car will need a diagnostic. But it seems as though you no a lot about cars??
Jo Loomes Hi. Thanks for watching and for the compliment. I'm a Professional Automotive Engineer at the UK's largest OE. So I have access to a huge pool of knowledge. Overheating could be caused by a number of things and to list all possible causes here would make this look like War and Peace. So try this first: Take the car for a drive. Does the heater work (yes, I know it's hot!). Turn the aircon off and put the heater on full hot and fan on full. The heater should kick out plenty of heat. Pull up on the drive (or stop somewhere safe), lift the bonnet (engine still running) and feel the hoses at the top and bottom corners of the radiator. Are they hot (they should be hot so careful not to burn yourself and mind the fan - it may start at any moment). Also have a look at the expansion bottle - is the level ok and can you see coolant flowing through the bottle? Is it hot too? Stop the engine. With an old towel, cover the expansion bottle cap and undo it very gently. Does it release pressure when you undo? Some other Qs that maybe you can answer str8 away: does it overheat every time you drive it, or only occasionally? How long does it take to overheat, just a few miles or a long way? What colour is the coolant? and is it a strong solution or weak (gauge the colour, like you might a drink of squash). When it overheats are you driving or in traffic?
Jo Loomes As for the EML, yes you'll need the code. Easiest and cheapest way is to buy a cheap code reader - this should do you and it's on Prime so you could have it tomorrow. A garage will charge 35+vat usually, just to read a code, so once you've used this twice you're saving. Once you have the code, google "fiesta Yxxxx" where Yxxx is the code. amzn.to/2KrE3Ka
Hi thank you for getting back to me so quickly its much appreciated. So once I realise the expansion tank was leaking and changed it, it was fine for a little while, I haven't used the car that much since it's been changed so I've only been taking little trips. But on Friday I was in traffic and the car got really over heated and then that's when the check engine icon come up, at first it was flashing and now it is permanently there so I will have the diagnostic checked tomorrow. I also checked the coolant level before I set of and it was fine, since I refilled it once the new tank was put in. It a pink solution/already mixed. As I have read it, and you have also mentioned it could be many things causing both problems I just hope its nothing to serious. Thank you once again :)
Jo Loomes Right oh! The extra info is useful. It could be something as simple as the engine fan not working. If the fan works with aircon on then it could be the fan switch or relay system. P0217 is the engine overheat code and generates an EML. That's where I'd start.
I see how you have said that there has been times once I've stopped the car and parked, switched the engine off there sometimes is still a noise coming from the engine which kind of sounds like a fan.. I guess ill have to see what they say tomorrow. Thank you, you have been a great help! Definitely going to subscribe :)
I think you have it correct to an extent yes...no forward movement if pulled so I'm.trusting that the side internal mount bolts are in place. Where it becomes worse I will disturb the plastic fixings remaining and look. A good season ahead and thank you.
I did this yesterday and it was a total nightmare. Blind spots, no room for anything. In the end I needed another pearson because it was impossibile to refit the radiator alone. And I damaged the condenser, so the AC doesn't work anymore.
I have to say that I don't recognise any of the issues you state. In fact compared to some cars (most notably my Rover 827), the Fiesta was a doddle to work on. Which in turn makes me wonder why you've posted such a comment. Maybe you're being deliberately controversial to attract attention hoping to find views and subscribers? Maybe you're trolling? If it's help and advice you're wanting, you're sure going about it the wrong way. I'm gonna leave your comment here for others to see and make up their own minds.
@@CycloneCyd I'm only saying that's trickier than It seems and in my case I didn't manage to refit the radiator by myself. I founded useful an extra pair of hands and that's basically what I'm saying: make sure, if it's your case, you have someone ready to help. And by the way you skipped the whole refit procedure, that may be useful for many people.
Didn't work! The plastic clips had hardened and wouldn't release. Then the fan didn't clear the horizontal member, so had to remove the bottom support member. It looked deceptively easy on you tube...
Tipping it down a surface drain (eg roadside grids) would be an offence and I would DIScourage anyone from doing so, but the sewer kinda does what it says on the tin, it goes to the sewerage works to be treated (via the toilet). Small DIY type quantities will do no harm to the sewerage works bacteria stability. If you can find somewhere that will take it off you for proper recycling, this is preferable, BUT good luck with that! Obviously if your country doesn't have a sewer system, you'll have to find another solution.
I just wanted to know if it's the same to change the radiator for a 2006 model Ford Fiesta Duratec engine? I'm not sure what model this is but car looks the same.
Great tutorial clip, thank you. Mission was accomplished successfully and saved me £200+ in garage fees. Phil
and I'll bet you did a better job too. Well done. It's gratifying to know that the way I structure my tutorials enables people to follow them through. It was the proliferation of half-arsed shakey tutorials that got me started in the first place.
Hello,
What really helped me:
-Removing the bumper
-Bending the AC pipes (carefully, not too much)
-Loosening the plastic holder for the radiator & condenser on the top plastic crossmember
-Pushing the condenser, pulling the radiator while lying down (5:30)
For me, disassembly took 3 hours and installation took 2 hours
The video is great, it helped a lot. Thank you!
Thanks so much for this very clear and helpful video. I'm writing from Brisbane Australia and today I successfully swapped out the radiator of my daughter, Ruby's Fiesta, based totally on the tips and insights of this video, which removed the guess-work of a job I had not previously encountered.... Many thanks again. I saved plenty of cash and gained great satisfaction of a job well done.... Time taken approx 2 hours for me... Cheers to all... Geoff and Ruby
Thanks for your positive feedback Geoffrey, glad you were able to fix Ruby's Fiesta.
Thank you! Had a fox go thru my radiator on a motorway of all places, leading to catastrophic coolant and oil loss (oil filter too). This video helped me replace it during lockdown. I’ve never repaired a car before, and this video gave me the confidence to do it.
Wow! that's fantastic to hear. Well done! Now you're on the road to saving a lifetime of garage labour
it was only my mistake, I installed my radiator upside down and was wondering why my hoses wont fit hahah it took me an hour to figure it out, but now its all good,
thanks for the video and great tips.
Thanks bud for this, everyone else makes it look very complicated.
My misses radiator popped a crack whilst driving around. Luckily, we were 10 minutes from home, so I was able to coast it home. She has a Fiesta 2007 so this is a massive help, gonna be changing it on the weekend
Thanks for the tutorial! I just completed my 2005 Fiesta, I must say though I haven't sworn that much in a long time not to mention having my arms all cut up. Took me all day just to remove the condenser from the old radiator once that was done it was a real pain to get everything to click and mount together.
Still though at the end of it all I had the biggest smile on my face, love doing my own work.
Wow, it took me 2 1/2 hours incl the filming❗ But hey, don't feel bad - it's not a competition.What matters is that you saw it through to completion, did a good job, saved some money and got personal satisfaction from doing so. Well done 👍👍
Excellent tutorial, very clearly explained. Took me about 1 hour to complete. Thank you for taking the time to create and publish this.
You're very welcome!
I tried it today but not able to separate radiator from condenser😞 Any tips?
Un grande grazie dall' Italia il tuo video mi ha aiutato tantissimo e fatto risparmiare denaro tutto eseguito in 3 h con molta calma cambiando entrambi i radiatori anche aria condizionata tutto ora funziona alla grande 💪 bravissimo
Great tutorial. WIthout seeing how you seperated the radiator would have been phaffing for a long time. Nice work thankyou. 1 hour to complete. (not including testing).
The detail is amazing! Not many actually show every single step, and it helps a lot!
Thank you for doing this video my rad needed replacement I never done it before but took me an hour and half with the advice and steps from the video 🙏 u have another subscriber
We just successfully replaced our radiator after bursting it on a boulder (whoopsie) really appreciate the tutorial.. thank you!
Nice work!
Man god bless you ! I just changed the rad on mine and it went exactly as described. I am very greatfull !
job jobbed 👍
Good tips there fella. If you got an outside kitchen gulley this is also ok to dispose from easier than trekking it through the house.
For sure. As long as it goes down the sewer and not into the water course.
Never knew you could flush coolant down the toilet.
In small, DIY type quantities, yes. Never let it down surface drains. If you have somewhere local that will accpet it for recycling, this is preferable of course.
Don't use vaseline on rubber hoses, it is petroleum based and will damage rubber overtime.
Use silicone grease, or red rubber grease.
Thank you for putting this video together.
Really helpful.
10/10
Thank you Cyd. At 6m50s - 'bit fiddly'. Understatement - I am still struggling to get the radiator to slide onto the AC condenser. Certainly not easy.
Im struggling to separate it. Any tips?
Finally got the job done.
Separating the AC condenser from the radiator was a bit of a struggle and involved two of us lying underneath the car.
My first advice is to understand clearly how these two parts connect to each other before starting. I watched Cyd's video in detail many times. Completely remove the two screws which fasten the lower bungs in place.
Secondly, I suggest having one person assisting rather from above and the the other from below. Thirdly and most importantly, clean and lubricate the areas where the two parts join to each other. Sticky oil and dust deposits make it difficult to slide them apart. After separating them, you can further clean the mating areas.
Getting them back together was a lot easier, my son underneath and me guiding the upper connections from above. Note that when sliding them apart or together again, the bottom of the combination must be tilted towards the vehicle rear, and once together, must be carefully pushed up into the top bung recesses before being able to tilt the lower edges back over onto the hard plastic base into which the lower spigots and bungs fit.
The top bungs become hard as they age, so I trimmed a gentle bevel around the top rim and let the some machine oil soak into this rim the night before. This made it more pliable and able to squeeze into the recesses.
Be patient and don't try to force anything. Note that I probably could have done the job on my own, but having an assistant made it much easier. Good Luck @gakhal6
@@nevyoung868heyy just got it separate from condenser. Going to mount new one tomorrow or day after tomorrow.. will let you know 😉
I couldn't find the drain plug on my radiator and thought the bleed screw was the one where it looks like a tyre valve on top of the black plastic adjacent to the right indicator in the headlamp. But i can see where you reached down to take the cap off the bleed valve. Mines a diesel fiesta mk6.5.
I will have a look again in the morning to see if i can find it.
Did it work out okay?
@@CycloneCyd
Thanks to you, i looked in the area of the radiator where you put your hand towards in your video and sure enough, i found the bleed screw.
I have now succesfully drained/flushed the old coolant out of the engine block, hoses, heater core and radiator using tap water from garden hose. I then flushed and rinsed the tap water out of all the above mentioned with deionised water. I then flushed out the deionised water with blower and reconnected some of yhe hoses. Filled with new 50/50 antifreeze mixture in a way that the new coolant stayed in situ in the hoses, radiator and heater core as i had to fit a new thermostat with its housing.
After thermostat fitted and all hoses reconnected i filled new coolant at the header tank with heater dial on hot and coolant bleed screw open. After the air was expelled i closed bleed valve and filled header tank to max line with new coolant and started the engine. Rev to 3000 rpm for 2 or 3 mins with heater on hot setting then topped up to max line again. Repeated the rev procedure once more after this.
In the morning,when engine was cold, i topped up to max line and thankfully level has not dropped.
I was worried about the radiator high speed fan not coming on and thought it could be the fuses, relays, fan resistor or wiring but i found if i put ac on, the low speed fan worked so fan resitor was fine.
To find issue i went into the secret menu in the clocks and i could get digital read of engine temp in degrees celcius.
I found if i let the Mk6.5 Fiesta 1.6 tdci hit 95 degrees or above, thats when high speed fan kicks in so all is good for now. They just run a bit hot.
That's was awesome🙌🏾🙌🏾
Hi, did your car have air conditioning by any chance.
Cheers that video is a great help
do u have a link to the rad u bought? or brand model
We just bought the cheapest rad available, which at the time was from EuroCarParts UK.
Hi, my partner had his coolant done by the local garage but a few days later his engine light has come on again. Coolant level seems fine but he can't see a minimum or maximum level on it. It's his first car so he knows very little. The garage said everything else was fine with the car.
Hi Kim, thanks for watching and for interacting.
The coolant tank does have min and max markings but you're right, they are very hard to see. Try shining a light through the bottle to see them. About half full is somewhere near correct anyway.
If by 'engine light' you're referring to the EML light (also known as DTC - looks like my channel profile pic), then you really need to read the code that's stored. The light on it's own could mean a thousand things.
You could go to a garage and they'll probably charge you 30+vat just to read the code OR you can download Torque Pro to your phone for 3 quid and buy one of these adapters (amzn.to/2m439QG) and read it yourself.
Take a screenshot of the code and then clear it and see if the light comes back on. Read the code again and see if it's the same one.
@@CycloneCyd awesome thanks! We found the min/max line but seems we have a leak as the coolant had gone down a few inches in a day or 2. We'll download the app as well😁
The part where you slide out the radiator from the condenser is the most difficult part. Especially when putting it back in. Too bad there is not inside footage of that part. How do you get the top spigots into their guides?
IIRC it just slotted right back into place for me. Was I just lucky?
I tried it today but not able to separate radiator from condenser😞 Any tips?
Hi Cyclone Cyd, that's a great video, I am however having trouble getting my fan back onto the radiator. There does not seem to be enough space to lift the fan onto the upper clips. Do you have any suggestions?
No, we no longer have the car so I can't look. Did you sort it? and how?
@@CycloneCyd I did have the same issue. With the left side clip. I had to remove the left headlight. That way, I had space to push the clip open with a screwdriver. And that small extra clearance between the clip going up or at an angle was enough to make it fit.
I must say that the engineers that made this car are bastards. The car is full of little details and choices that are only there to make the life of the average owner miserable, if they dare to do any mechanical work on it. Even for the oil change, you need the special tool to get the filter out. And you better be prepared if you choose to do anything else. It gets pretty painful pretty quick. And if you go to the dealer, more of the same, every job is harder than it should, so pay up those extra hours of the mechanic disassembling things just to access a funky screw, or the plastic clip.
It should not be that way. Not at all...
@@DrBernon A lot of trith in what you say.
I tried it today but not able to separate radiator from condenser😞 Any tips?
I was just wondering if this radiator is the same radiator used for the AC unit. Because my AC is pumping cold air, but not cold enough and my mechanic said that we might have to replace the front radiator. Does this make any sense?
Engine rad and ac condensor are seperate units mounted together.
Seek out a local ac specialist - it may just need a regas
Hi there I have a petrol 1.6fiesta 2005 and my coolant Reservoir has bubbles around the cap, and the coolant is bubbling slightly. Is this a sign of headgasket problems or just need to get air out the pipe?
Try a new cap first in case it's boiling round the cap because the cap isn't pressurising the system
My pipes keep bursting, so I wonder if the engine is getting too hot, or whether there are air locks, or whether I am not filling the system properly and there may be too much air still in the system? I worry that it is an issue with me filling the system, so some advice on how to do this properly would be great. I have a Haynes manual too, which talks about the bleed valve, but I am not sure whether this is working properly.
Hiya, need to do a complete radiator replacement on my fiesta, do you by any chance know the part number for the lower rubber radiator footing? (It’s the smaller one that sits inside the bigger circular one, the one you popped out with your screwdriver) Thanks!
Don't know the part number. Look for one in a breakers or check out breakers on eBay.
Hi. I'm wanting to replace the condenser only (empty ac system). Do I need to drain the radiator system or can I get the condenser off without worrying about the radiator system?
The condensor comes off fairly easily with no need to drain the coolant system.
Thanks for this video. Last night I started my car when I didn't notice it was in gear and it caused my car to slam into the Woden posts in front. Lost of parts broke off from underneath but I don't know what they were. Turns out is was just the airflow panels behind the lower grill, nothing too expensive and important, thankfully.
I did snap off some of the clips which hold the bumper, so it is a little lose now. Any tips on how to do a quick fix on the lower clip (as seen at 4:19 on this video, the red clip from the bumper) to keep the bumper from being loose?
Ooops! Who amongst us hasn't been there though! At least it doesn't sound too bad.
It's my son's car and he's out in it today - I'll try and remember to have a look for you if / when he returns. I suspect though that long strong tie wraps are gonna be your best friend here.
Do let us know how you get on.
Cyclone Cyd Thanks! I did a bit of cable tie work and replaced the airflow shroud and the bumper seems to be good now. Most of the loss of support of the bumper was from the missing parts on the airflow shroud anyway so the cable ties were not entirely necessary, but they atleast helped.
top job 👍👍✔
thanks for letting us know
@@SurgeDashcam I know it's been a good while but I've discovered Q Bond and it may be a big help to you. I did a review, have a look
@@CycloneCyd Thanks for the suggestion! I don't have the car anymore but I appreciate it anyway. At least I know what to look for in the future if something similar happens.
Hi again the radiator I bought has the two hose ends in one side and two drain bleeder on the other can I continue or do I need to return the radiator and get one that has two hose pipes on separate sides
This was great, thanks!!!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you a lot helped me out big time 👍🏼
what do they mean when they say the radiator cap? Is that just where you top up coolant?
Correct. Years ago the cap was on the radiator with no separate expansion tank. Hence, radiator cap 👍🤘
Hi great vid will have a go fixing mine tomorow.
Will you lose the heat once you've flushed the system
"lose the heat" ? what does that mean, please?
Mexican Fiesta is diferent thanks a lot for the tips
Hi bofinio1, thanks for watching and interacting. Welcome aboard.
are you sure? According to Wiki, sales of Fiesta started in Mexico in 2011, which is the mk7, the next generation after this one.
Hi, sorry my Fiesta is 2006 almost similar that video...but my car was made in Brasil ... and I see some parts are diferents (air filter etc) and the radiator it come out and not below... best regard
Is has a sumbrero and runs on tequila?
Excellent video!
Many thanks James. Welcome aboard.
Thank you for this video-I've just removed my radiator with the help of your video. I will install the new one tomorrow. I have a quick question.. How often should the fan come on? Also my AC doesn't work so when I put it on (ac button is lit up) will this stop the fan from working when the ac is on? My cars Air con has never worked in the 6 years I've had the car. Will this affect the fan coming on?
How do you bleed the system ?
Valve at the top of the rad. It's in the video
Hi , just tried to do mine undone everything, feet undone and the locking pins but just cant get it to drop and I cant see where the clip to separate the condenser as i think that's the only thing holding it . It feels like it's all 1 piece and connected?
Nicely explained. It would work similar with a 1.4 diesel engine, right? I'm expecting a new radiator today.
Think I'll remove the bumper to get easier access though.
I'm not familiar with the diesel but I would imagine it's very similar if not the same.
I'm not sure that removing the bumper will gain much, but if you do and it does, please let us know.
Thanks for watching and interacting
@@CycloneCyd so, everything is exactly the same for a 1.4 tdci engine. I did remove the bumper and actually did gain easier access but in return, to remove the bumper you also have to remove the fenders at the wheels on both sides which is also a struggle (without removing the tires, which I didn't do). So on the plus side: less chance to damage the brand new radiator, on the down side: a lot more effort. Thanks for the video!
Hi, thank you for the tutorial. I’m stuck At putting the air flow guides back on. I have no idea where they go. Even after you showed
I must confess to being a bit stuck myself for what to suggest. If this was a question on a forum I'd normally direct the questioner to my video, lol! A somewhat circular exercise in this instance
@@CycloneCyd Not to worry, I ended up not bothering with them.. just put the grill on over it, the car appearance wise is totally trashed anyway. long as it gets me from a to b is what i care about and it being my first car too. I bust the rad by hitting another car (oops!) being 19 insurance is crazy high especially now i have had an accident You have saved me few hundred quid at least so i do appreciate this tutorial a lot! Like & Subbed
@@TheCjbbb Good man, that's using your noddle! It's unlikely to be a problem in the UK climate (assuming your UK based), but keep one eye on the temp guage if you get stuck in traffic on a stinking hot day (30+). I'm gonna try and get some more Fez stuff out this summer.
Cyclone Cyd yes I am UK based, and I will do, thank you!
Thank you for this excellent video! Would you recommend flushing the coolant every few years and adding some new or should you never replace the coolant/antifreeze? Thanks in advance sir.
The anti corrosion properties of the coolant reduce over time, so yes it should be periodically flushed and replaced. Always mix with deionised water.
Blue or green = 2yrs
Pink or red = 5yrs
Purple = 10yrs
Guess I'll do the same to my 2005 Fiesta when the hot weather will pop in. Cheers!
@@killerob666 welcome aboard. You an Iron Maiden fan by any chance?
@@CycloneCyd Thanks. Not really :) Cheers mate.
P.S. I changed my radiator following your video and went nice and easy. Thanks again.
@@killerob666 I was going by the 666 thing - Number of the Beast lol 🎸🎸
Good stuff, happy to hear 🖖🖖
Fantastic Job.
Just wondering y when I topped my coolant back up it only took 3.5 liters when pose to take 5 liters I just changed my coolant not radiator bye undoing bleeder screw drain plug any ideas y
And will it be safe its running arigth
But for some reason even though both radiator and housing thermostat together with the thermostat have been changed the car still overheats
Any suggeations?
Check the pump is working okay. Does the heater kick out really hot air? the plastic impeller can slip in it's shaft and doesn't pump efficiently.
Thank you your video helped me alot
Thanks Mike. Don't forget to share!
Cyclone Cyd OK will do
Thank you for video. Appreciate if you could provide a link or dimensions of the water pump pliers used.
These are the exact ones you saw. they are excellent quality, but not cheap:
amzn.to/2JEY8eT
Many thanks. I've noticed there is also a bigger version at 315mm. Do you think the bigger one would be even better for automotive applications?
Probably. Yes.
Hello, I am a first time car owner and I am planning to tackle changing my ford fiesta mk6 bumper, crash bar and front panel. What tools would you recommend and as an inexperienced mechanic is it possible for me to do this or should i take it to a garage?
Thank you
Joshua Martin I just did a similar repair, you absolutely need a 10mm socket with an extender, also have some long zip ties. You need a T30 torx bit to remove the headlights (not essential) and a T25 torx bit to remove the wheel arch liners, these parts are removed so you can access bolts for the bumper
Regarding the crash bar, be careful as it’s structural, I haven’t personally replaced this part.
Thank you for this video! I have checked my radiator and noticed the fins are all corroded and can be squished when pushed with a little pressure. I am wondering if this means I should replace the radiator or if this isn't detrimental? Thanks for any advice :)
Hi Claire, the fins on the rad are delicate but if they appear to be corroded and fall away easily then I would say yes, replace the radiator. If the fins are badly corroded it probably means the waterways are corroded too and it will one day spring a leak. If you drive the car mostly local to home, this may not matter too much - you can always limp home or get a friend to tow you. But you can almost guarantee it'll happen that one time you're 200 miles from home and the inconvenience will be considerable. My crystal ball is no better than anyone elses - you could leave it and it may last years yet.
The whole job will cost around £50 and less than half a day on your drive, so on the balance of probabilities, it's time and money well spent.
Another consideration, Claire, is that unless you've had the car for years, you don't know if it's ever had a coolant refresh or a previous issue and the mixture is weak, leading to internal corrosion.
Thank you for the detailed reply :). I bought the car about 4 years ago and the coolant reservoir cracked which a garage replaced and I noticed there is pink coolant in there. One thing you did in the video was using the blower and you said something about leaving the fan on. Does this mean to flush the coolant with the fan and old radiator or am I getting the wrong end of the stick? Sorry, I have a feeling that was a silly question!
🎓 pay attention at the back of class now! 🎓But seriously .... I was using the blower because I'd already removed the radiator fan from the car. You should run a flush before you remove the radiator fan!!! Schoolboy error on my part!!The other fan I referred to was the heater fan inside the car - if during flushing the engine temperature rises you can put this on full to help control the temp.Yes, flush with the old rad in place. If you put the new rad in first, you potentially contaminate the new rad (which of course will be perfectly clean!!)No such thing as a silly question, only silly answers. We learn by asking. Never be embarressed to ask questions, nor apologise for asking.
@@CycloneCyd thank you :) I appreciate the patience and your explanation. Is there any particular anti freeze to use? I have the 1.4 duratec petrol engine and everytime I look online it comes up with the ford branded anti freeze. Even when looking in ECP they don't seem to recommend the AF you use when I put the reg in. Is this AF okay for my engine? It is much cheaper but if its not right I would rather pay extra. Also, when running the engine to help flush the system how long do you run it for? Thanks again
hello sir .. i have to change my radiator's hoses (the upper and the lower ) for my fiesta MKV duratec 1.2 petrol and the cost of the original ones is too important ; so i m thinking to buy the adaptable version...my question : is there a big difference between the original and the adaptable hoses (i mean in qualily)??? or the adaptable are as acceptable as the orignal even they are cheaper the the original??? thank you
Hi Aymen, I'm not sure what you mean by 'adaptable'. Do you mean lengths of straight hose that you cut to lenght to fit? Have you got a link to them?
If yes, then as long as they are from a recognised brand I'd go for it. Cheap counterfeit knockoffs are the thing to watch out for. Heat and pressure deteriorate them real fast.
all my used engine oil goes down the drain as well
I own a mk6 1.4 and when I drive fast with it, smoke starts coming out meaning its over heating so would it be ideal for me to get a track radiator as they are saying 40% reduction in engine over heating.
If the car is stock, then it would be better to investigate the cause. I would start with a thorough coolant system flush. Also a new thermostat.
Sadly for us your work in this fix did not include removal of the front cover. I note plastic lugs behind grille have huge play in them.
This may seem very random but I just bought a ford fiesta myself, I've had it for 3 weeks and im having a few problems already. The car kept over heating and then I realized It was because there was a crack in the expansion tank which I have now changed but the car is still over heating so im not sure what it is, also to add to that now the engine warning light has come on :( I have read online it could be due to a number of things and the car will need a diagnostic. But it seems as though you no a lot about cars??
Jo Loomes
Hi. Thanks for watching and for the compliment. I'm a Professional Automotive Engineer at the UK's largest OE. So I have access to a huge pool of knowledge.
Overheating could be caused by a number of things and to list all possible causes here would make this look like War and Peace. So try this first:
Take the car for a drive. Does the heater work (yes, I know it's hot!). Turn the aircon off and put the heater on full hot and fan on full. The heater should kick out plenty of heat.
Pull up on the drive (or stop somewhere safe), lift the bonnet (engine still running) and feel the hoses at the top and bottom corners of the radiator. Are they hot (they should be hot so careful not to burn yourself and mind the fan - it may start at any moment).
Also have a look at the expansion bottle - is the level ok and can you see coolant flowing through the bottle? Is it hot too?
Stop the engine. With an old towel, cover the expansion bottle cap and undo it very gently. Does it release pressure when you undo?
Some other Qs that maybe you can answer str8 away:
does it overheat every time you drive it, or only occasionally?
How long does it take to overheat, just a few miles or a long way?
What colour is the coolant? and is it a strong solution or weak (gauge the colour, like you might a drink of squash).
When it overheats are you driving or in traffic?
Jo Loomes
As for the EML, yes you'll need the code. Easiest and cheapest way is to buy a cheap code reader - this should do you and it's on Prime so you could have it tomorrow. A garage will charge 35+vat usually, just to read a code, so once you've used this twice you're saving. Once you have the code, google "fiesta Yxxxx" where Yxxx is the code. amzn.to/2KrE3Ka
Hi thank you for getting back to me so quickly its much appreciated. So once I realise the expansion tank was leaking and changed it, it was fine for a little while, I haven't used the car that much since it's been changed so I've only been taking little trips. But on Friday I was in traffic and the car got really over heated and then that's when the check engine icon come up, at first it was flashing and now it is permanently there so I will have the diagnostic checked tomorrow. I also checked the coolant level before I set of and it was fine, since I refilled it once the new tank was put in. It a pink solution/already mixed. As I have read it, and you have also mentioned it could be many things causing both problems I just hope its nothing to serious. Thank you once again :)
Jo Loomes
Right oh! The extra info is useful. It could be something as simple as the engine fan not working.
If the fan works with aircon on then it could be the fan switch or relay system.
P0217 is the engine overheat code and generates an EML.
That's where I'd start.
I see how you have said that there has been times once I've stopped the car and parked, switched the engine off there sometimes is still a noise coming from the engine which kind of sounds like a fan.. I guess ill have to see what they say tomorrow. Thank you, you have been a great help! Definitely going to subscribe :)
hi good job help me out big time thanks des.
Glad to hear that Kieran!
Very informative, but I for one can't be bothered with this. Would happily hand over my money to the mechanic haha
Came here because today the front bumper cover moved up and down in position around 6 cms on its fixings..shock horror not much confidence induced!
That's bad. Did you find the cause? Broken fixings maybe?
I think you have it correct to an extent yes...no forward movement if pulled so I'm.trusting that the side internal mount bolts are in place. Where it becomes worse I will disturb the plastic fixings remaining and look. A good season ahead and thank you.
I did this yesterday and it was a total nightmare. Blind spots, no room for anything. In the end I needed another pearson because it was impossibile to refit the radiator alone. And I damaged the condenser, so the AC doesn't work anymore.
I have to say that I don't recognise any of the issues you state. In fact compared to some cars (most notably my Rover 827), the Fiesta was a doddle to work on.
Which in turn makes me wonder why you've posted such a comment. Maybe you're being deliberately controversial to attract attention hoping to find views and subscribers? Maybe you're trolling?
If it's help and advice you're wanting, you're sure going about it the wrong way.
I'm gonna leave your comment here for others to see and make up their own minds.
@@CycloneCyd I'm only saying that's trickier than It seems and in my case I didn't manage to refit the radiator by myself. I founded useful an extra pair of hands and that's basically what I'm saying: make sure, if it's your case, you have someone ready to help. And by the way you skipped the whole refit procedure, that may be useful for many people.
Merci !
de rien
Didn't work! The plastic clips had hardened and wouldn't release. Then the fan didn't clear the horizontal member, so had to remove the bottom support member. It looked deceptively easy on you tube...
🤦🏼♂️ tipping the antifreeze down the sewer is a definite NO NO you could go to Jail 👮♂️ for polluting the environment
Tipping it down a surface drain (eg roadside grids) would be an offence and I would DIScourage anyone from doing so, but the sewer kinda does what it says on the tin, it goes to the sewerage works to be treated (via the toilet). Small DIY type quantities will do no harm to the sewerage works bacteria stability.
If you can find somewhere that will take it off you for proper recycling, this is preferable, BUT good luck with that!
Obviously if your country doesn't have a sewer system, you'll have to find another solution.
I just wanted to know if it's the same to change the radiator for a 2006 model Ford Fiesta Duratec engine? I'm not sure what model this is but car looks the same.