Well said, Hugh! I absolutely love the X2D. Manually, that is. As impressive as the V lenses are, tho, I've opted for the original XCDs. Just as you said, the V benefit is primarily for purposes of AF. Yes, V are lighter - and so beautiful, but I just felt that after months using the 55V without tack-sharp imagery, the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze! And the lack of availability & the long wait for V lenses became an issue. Like you, I'm rooting for Hasselblad but, we have to admit, it's a tall order to ask that level of patience & investment when the resulting product has these issues. All said, tho, the original XCD lenses are awesome. And you can often find them well-priced used, & hardly used. I also prefer the consistency across the range of lenses, it's just easier to swap. I do think the manual focus clutch & the distance scale on the Vs are amazing. But I feel to really hit that focus, as we're talking about, then it's just best to see it in the viewfinder. My camera is set up as General/Custom Buttons: AF/MF to Zoom In, M as Focus Mode & Wheel Click as Move AF Point. In Focus, I have AF Point Size as Small, Reset Focus Point as Never, and MF Assist as Auto Zoom with Touch AF, Move AF Point, & Move AF Point for EVF all set to on. My shooting mode is usually Aperture Priority, which I set on the touch screen menu. And for good measure, as you touched on this, my Custom Overlays are Combined with Exposure Info, Distance Scale & Spirit Level. This is all set to my Custom Profile 1. Very clean & uncluttered. What I do is move the focus point with the front & rear scroll wheels, which you do so (as you likely know) by pushing in the rear scroll wheel. Once my focus point is set, I rack my focus by adjusting the focus on the lens itself. This punches in, & then I can tell if what I want is in focus or not. If I want to double-check w/o moving the focus, I can do so with the AF/MF button. Now, you can go a step further, if you'd like, by changing MF Assist to Focus Peaking & then just punching in with the AF/MF button as Zoom In. This will give you the zoomed focus point with focus peaking overlayed, which I do think is helpful for seeing (in so many words) the depth of field, or just what's in focus & what's not. That said, I agree with you on Focus Peaking. So, I just prefer to look with my eye & see what is in focus with the zoom. I hit consistently, and if I miss, then it's my error - which I can live with - & not the fault of the camera, which can be maddening. Hope this is helpful!
Between two subjects you have to go as soon as possible in forced sleep mode and it returns to shoot mode by just tipping any button. Sleep mode doesn't use battery, camera doesn't heat, it preserves all settings (including focus). As a X system shooter for years, I do forced sleep mode automatically without thinking about it.
Thanks for the useful information. I have the Hasselblad X2D along with the 38V, 55V, 90V and 28P lenses. As the heaviest of the V lenses, I decided not to get the 25V and went with the 28P instead. This is a fabulous kit for landscape, urban and portrait photography. The first medium format kit that is light enough to carry around and considerably lighter than the Leica SL system with the corresponding APO lenses. I have relied largely on autofocus but can see the virtues of using manual focus for precise focusing. I have two questions: 1) Does back button auto focusing give better results than regular focusing with the shutter button? I think that is what you implied in the video. 2) Is face detect available with back button focusing approach? I suspect not because the camera is in manual focus mode. I will try it out. I live in the Seattle area and would very much like to make contact with Bob if he is agreeable.
A few additional comments. I agree wholeheartedly with your suggestion to Hasselblad that Auto ISO should be available in 'manual' mode, as other camera manufacturers have done. Another suggestion: when the camera is in autofocus mode, the focusing ring on the lens can be used to fine-tune focus; however, the focusing aid (e.g., magnification) does not automatically come up. I think it should and I hope Hasselblad will fix this in a firmware update.
I don’t have a Hasselblad, but enjoy watching your videos because of your exceptional presentation without (noticeable) editing and the lack of annoying ’B-roll’ footage. Not sure why you didn’t (also) choose a career in acting or directing.
Another excellent video. I use manual focus in the X2D and find it excellent. Particularly for landscape, portraits or still life. There are occasions such as moving subjects when I use autofocus which works most of the time, but not always. I do love using the touch screen, moving the focus point around whilst looking through the EVF and then pressing the AF-D button to focus, before taking the photograph. Thank you for confirming this is a good way in which to use the X2D.
This is THE x2d video i've been waiting for someone to make for ages. Many thanks! As mich as I would love this camera, it just seems to stop me one way or another at every turn from shooting the way I like. I could make it work for urban landscape/still life, but even that would be kludgy, even when compared to the old nikon dslr I had 10-15 years ago. For now I think I'm just going to get in line for an x100v and re-evaluate the hassy as firmware drops. That is, of course, unless I get surprised with a properly weather sealed Leica M in the meantime... hey, I can dream!
The only XCD lens that I own is the 45P. Other lenses that I own are the HC 50mm-110mm, HC 35mm, HC80mm and HC100mm all adapted using the XH 0,8 adapter. Personally I have no complaints using my HC lenses in manual mode, they all work like any standard old lens if I choose to zone focus because they all have distance/zone focus scales. Once I set the focus it stays in place, all I worry about is pressing the button every couple of minutes so it doesn't go to sleep. I'm a big advocate of using the lenses you have until they no longer work for you, because Hasselblad made such a great adapter that has not only made my lenses 2/3's of a stop faster and improved image quality Ill keep on using them until I can no longer lift them. Which brings me to my next point, size and weight. The heaviest lens/camera combo is the HC 50mm-110mm with my X2D (just over 6 lb), man alive is it a chore to carry but I've done it, and the rest of the lenses adding to the heft if you do decide to carry them with you. If like me, you don't mind the weight HC lenses are a great option, the image quality still holds up if you like to shoot wide open and is phenomenal as you stop down. Lastly IBIS, IBIS is a dream in the X2D. Gone are the days that I lug around a big tripod for medium format. I said it once and I'll scream it from the top of a building, being able to hand hold a HC100mm lens at ISO 64, f4 at 1/3 to 1/7 shutter speed is freaking voodoo. My nighttime photos are a pleasure to work with. I like to work fast, get in and get out. Yes, I'm missing out on AF focusing but if I don't have to set up a tripod and adjust height I'm very happy, all I have to worry about is manual focus with IBIS taking care of the lens shake. Having different profile settings for various scenarios also help. At some point I might entertain getting a 25mm V series lens, but right now all my bases are covered.
I don’t know about X2D but with X1D II and longer focal length like the XCD 1.9 / 80 mm, focus peaking works well in well lit situations and also when there is some texture (grass typically) on the ground. Even at an aperture of 5.6. In low light, I’m lost! I’ve managed to take very sharp pictures of my 9 months kid this way. AF is pointless for that kind of subjects, especially with the 80 mm which is even slower. In comparison the 65 is so fast! NB: sorry if that is not the subject, I needed to mention that particular case when I found the focus peaking useful and efficient! On the X1D II, but maybe it does apply to the X2D.
When I see coments on this topic, i wonder how did people make photos last 100+ years without super-duper AF system. And all those ppl who saying "i ain't gonna buy Hasseblad cuz of the bad AF"... yeah, right.. 😂
@13:50 Sorry but medium format street photography isn't just more difficult with Hasselblad X2D, it is more difficult with all brands when the sensor/film format gets bigger and easier when it gets smaller
I am just getting started in photography I really apparent your time and wisdom I love your videos they are a great help I be buying my next camera soon
One top tip is to go to settings and FIX the focus point - in fact I use this for AF as well - I do the same on the 907xCFV100c as well - and yes it is the best camera ever and use them in my Pro work - but I prefer my Leica SL2 with the M lenses - just feels different
A great guide for the system! Thanks! As for the GFX, i can report it does hold focus point in manual focus mode when you turn the camera off and on, there is a DOF indicator on the focus distance bar in the screens (also in AF); there is no shutter lag. It is designed classically, great grip and a person who has never seen a smartphone made the menus. The eye-auto-focus in the 100S (model 1) is 'good enough' for a fairly fast moving model in studio settings; works great for street so far i have experience with it. There is no comparison with my Sony of course. It works great with the Fringer adapter for EOS lenses. From the ones i have; the Canon EOS 40mm f2.8 and 135 f2; even the Tamron 150-600mm present almost no vignet and easy to correct; and the lenses are correctly detected; focus works perfectly. Just FYI ;-)
Yes, Hassi needs to address several features that you have mentioned here if Hassi wants to keep a top tier of modern cameras as a still photography camera. I am still hesitant to purchase this camera for my still camera... Reportedly, Sony might bring a medium format camera with high mpx in 2025.. Then the market will be shifted dramatically to it. just 2 cents..
I can't drop this kind of money on a camera that doesn't focus well. Why Hassy refuses to fix this is a mystery. Otherwise gorgeous camera. If Only ....
My Hasselblad AF experience with X1D and 907X is different I have 100 % nailed autofocus with my X cameras but perhaps only with 90% of subjects. For the 10 remaining % of subjects it just says I am not able to. Is it better or worse than the contender that nails 90% of focus with 100% of the subjects ? Should I understand that X2D autofocus is worse than X1D ?
@@jean-claudemuller3199 No: especially when it works, face detection is a clear advance. But it is fair to understand the evolution of AF performance on the X series cameras as slower going than the rest of the industry.
Who else is waiting for 3BM+AnE's review of the New XCD 20-35mm?
Well said, Hugh!
I absolutely love the X2D. Manually, that is. As impressive as the V lenses are, tho, I've opted for the original XCDs. Just as you said, the V benefit is primarily for purposes of AF. Yes, V are lighter - and so beautiful, but I just felt that after months using the 55V without tack-sharp imagery, the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze! And the lack of availability & the long wait for V lenses became an issue. Like you, I'm rooting for Hasselblad but, we have to admit, it's a tall order to ask that level of patience & investment when the resulting product has these issues.
All said, tho, the original XCD lenses are awesome. And you can often find them well-priced used, & hardly used. I also prefer the consistency across the range of lenses, it's just easier to swap. I do think the manual focus clutch & the distance scale on the Vs are amazing. But I feel to really hit that focus, as we're talking about, then it's just best to see it in the viewfinder.
My camera is set up as General/Custom Buttons: AF/MF to Zoom In, M as Focus Mode & Wheel Click as Move AF Point. In Focus, I have AF Point Size as Small, Reset Focus Point as Never, and MF Assist as Auto Zoom with Touch AF, Move AF Point, & Move AF Point for EVF all set to on. My shooting mode is usually Aperture Priority, which I set on the touch screen menu. And for good measure, as you touched on this, my Custom Overlays are Combined with Exposure Info, Distance Scale & Spirit Level. This is all set to my Custom Profile 1. Very clean & uncluttered.
What I do is move the focus point with the front & rear scroll wheels, which you do so (as you likely know) by pushing in the rear scroll wheel. Once my focus point is set, I rack my focus by adjusting the focus on the lens itself. This punches in, & then I can tell if what I want is in focus or not. If I want to double-check w/o moving the focus, I can do so with the AF/MF button.
Now, you can go a step further, if you'd like, by changing MF Assist to Focus Peaking & then just punching in with the AF/MF button as Zoom In. This will give you the zoomed focus point with focus peaking overlayed, which I do think is helpful for seeing (in so many words) the depth of field, or just what's in focus & what's not. That said, I agree with you on Focus Peaking. So, I just prefer to look with my eye & see what is in focus with the zoom. I hit consistently, and if I miss, then it's my error - which I can live with - & not the fault of the camera, which can be maddening.
Hope this is helpful!
A lovely contribution indeed - thank you! 😊🖖🏻🙏🏻
Between two subjects you have to go as soon as possible in forced sleep mode and it returns to shoot mode by just tipping any button.
Sleep mode doesn't use battery, camera doesn't heat, it preserves all settings (including focus).
As a X system shooter for years, I do forced sleep mode automatically without thinking about it.
Thanks for the tip!
How long will it remain in sleep mode before turning off?
My GFX 100S got hot during a normal streetwalk and shoot; a first for me as i'm used to my Sony. It was a warm day, even then. lol
Thanks for the useful information. I have the Hasselblad X2D along with the 38V, 55V, 90V and 28P lenses. As the heaviest of the V lenses, I decided not to get the 25V and went with the 28P instead. This is a fabulous kit for landscape, urban and portrait photography. The first medium format kit that is light enough to carry around and considerably lighter than the Leica SL system with the corresponding APO lenses.
I have relied largely on autofocus but can see the virtues of using manual focus for precise focusing. I have two questions: 1) Does back button auto focusing give better results than regular focusing with the shutter button? I think that is what you implied in the video. 2) Is face detect available with back button focusing approach? I suspect not because the camera is in manual focus mode. I will try it out.
I live in the Seattle area and would very much like to make contact with Bob if he is agreeable.
A few additional comments. I agree wholeheartedly with your suggestion to Hasselblad that Auto ISO should be available in 'manual' mode, as other camera manufacturers have done. Another suggestion: when the camera is in autofocus mode, the focusing ring on the lens can be used to fine-tune focus; however, the focusing aid (e.g., magnification) does not automatically come up. I think it should and I hope Hasselblad will fix this in a firmware update.
I don’t have a Hasselblad, but enjoy watching your videos because of your exceptional presentation without (noticeable) editing and the lack of annoying ’B-roll’ footage. Not sure why you didn’t (also) choose a career in acting or directing.
My father warned me that an actor’s life would be a difficult life; I believed him. 😊🖖🏻
@@3BMEP As many actors have shown indeed! Well we will never know 😉
Another excellent video. I use manual focus in the X2D and find it excellent. Particularly for landscape, portraits or still life. There are occasions such as moving subjects when I use autofocus which works most of the time, but not always. I do love using the touch screen, moving the focus point around whilst looking through the EVF and then pressing the AF-D button to focus, before taking the photograph. Thank you for confirming this is a good way in which to use the X2D.
This is THE x2d video i've been waiting for someone to make for ages. Many thanks! As mich as I would love this camera, it just seems to stop me one way or another at every turn from shooting the way I like. I could make it work for urban landscape/still life, but even that would be kludgy, even when compared to the old nikon dslr I had 10-15 years ago. For now I think I'm just going to get in line for an x100v and re-evaluate the hassy as firmware drops.
That is, of course, unless I get surprised with a properly weather sealed Leica M in the meantime... hey, I can dream!
Happy to be of service! 😊🖖🏻
The only XCD lens that I own is the 45P. Other lenses that I own are the HC 50mm-110mm, HC 35mm, HC80mm and HC100mm all adapted using the XH 0,8 adapter. Personally I have no complaints using my HC lenses in manual mode, they all work like any standard old lens if I choose to zone focus because they all have distance/zone focus scales. Once I set the focus it stays in place, all I worry about is pressing the button every couple of minutes so it doesn't go to sleep. I'm a big advocate of using the lenses you have until they no longer work for you, because Hasselblad made such a great adapter that has not only made my lenses 2/3's of a stop faster and improved image quality Ill keep on using them until I can no longer lift them.
Which brings me to my next point, size and weight. The heaviest lens/camera combo is the HC 50mm-110mm with my X2D (just over 6 lb), man alive is it a chore to carry but I've done it, and the rest of the lenses adding to the heft if you do decide to carry them with you. If like me, you don't mind the weight HC lenses are a great option, the image quality still holds up if you like to shoot wide open and is phenomenal as you stop down.
Lastly IBIS, IBIS is a dream in the X2D. Gone are the days that I lug around a big tripod for medium format. I said it once and I'll scream it from the top of a building, being able to hand hold a HC100mm lens at ISO 64, f4 at 1/3 to 1/7 shutter speed is freaking voodoo. My nighttime photos are a pleasure to work with. I like to work fast, get in and get out. Yes, I'm missing out on AF focusing but if I don't have to set up a tripod and adjust height I'm very happy, all I have to worry about is manual focus with IBIS taking care of the lens shake. Having different profile settings for various scenarios also help. At some point I might entertain getting a 25mm V series lens, but right now all my bases are covered.
Thanks so much for sharing a bit of your Hassy story!
I don’t know about X2D but with X1D II and longer focal length like the XCD 1.9 / 80 mm, focus peaking works well in well lit situations and also when there is some texture (grass typically) on the ground. Even at an aperture of 5.6. In low light, I’m lost! I’ve managed to take very sharp pictures of my 9 months kid this way. AF is pointless for that kind of subjects, especially with the 80 mm which is even slower. In comparison the 65 is so fast!
NB: sorry if that is not the subject, I needed to mention that particular case when I found the focus peaking useful and efficient! On the X1D II, but maybe it does apply to the X2D.
All good! Thanks for sharing! 😊🖖🏻
When I see coments on this topic, i wonder how did people make photos last 100+ years without super-duper AF system. And all those ppl who saying "i ain't gonna buy Hasseblad cuz of the bad AF"... yeah, right.. 😂
@13:50 Sorry but medium format street photography isn't just more difficult with Hasselblad X2D, it is more difficult with all brands when the sensor/film format gets bigger and easier when it gets smaller
Fair point! 🖖🏻
I am just getting started in photography I really apparent your time and wisdom I love your videos they are a great help
I be buying my next camera soon
Happy to be of service.
One top tip is to go to settings and FIX the focus point - in fact I use this for AF as well - I do the same on the 907xCFV100c as well - and yes it is the best camera ever and use them in my Pro work - but I prefer my Leica SL2 with the M lenses - just feels different
I hear you!
A great guide for the system! Thanks!
As for the GFX, i can report it does hold focus point in manual focus mode when you turn the camera off and on, there is a DOF indicator on the focus distance bar in the screens (also in AF); there is no shutter lag. It is designed classically, great grip and a person who has never seen a smartphone made the menus. The eye-auto-focus in the 100S (model 1) is 'good enough' for a fairly fast moving model in studio settings; works great for street so far i have experience with it. There is no comparison with my Sony of course.
It works great with the Fringer adapter for EOS lenses. From the ones i have; the Canon EOS 40mm f2.8 and 135 f2; even the Tamron 150-600mm present almost no vignet and easy to correct; and the lenses are correctly detected; focus works perfectly. Just FYI ;-)
Great input, thank you!😊 🖖🏻
Why is the Hassy the best MF system versus the Fuji GFX system?
I didn’t say it is; but I did answer a slightly different question in the second sentence.
Here's hoping the X2D's successor uses LiDAR for its autofocus system.
kudos to the tips! the auto focus of X2D is the worst but i still love shooting with it with the MF.
I got so used to using MF (back focus) from the previous X1D. I don’t bother with AF on the X2D.
Delighted it works for you! 😊🖖🏻
Thanks!
You’re welcome. 😊🖖🏻
+1 on all needed firmware upgrades/fixes. However, I wonder if Hasselblad think that dentists really need those options on their X2Ds? 🤔
The video would benefit from demonstration.
Agreed. But the absence of external monitor support dissuaded me from pursuing it.
All good, even sans a Hasselblad. But the end … “who and what are we voting for?” Yes.
Yes, Hassi needs to address several features that you have mentioned here if Hassi wants to keep a top tier of modern cameras as a still photography camera. I am still hesitant to purchase this camera for my still camera... Reportedly, Sony might bring a medium format camera with high mpx in 2025.. Then the market will be shifted dramatically to it. just 2 cents..
Thanks for sharing! 🖖🏻
You're a very bad man. You're making me want to buy one!
😎
Just want high IQ and best color. I use other systems for AF and speed.
Me too. 😊🖖🏻
I can't drop this kind of money on a camera that doesn't focus well. Why Hassy refuses to fix this is a mystery. Otherwise gorgeous camera. If Only ....
My Hasselblad AF experience with X1D and 907X is different
I have 100 % nailed autofocus with my X cameras but perhaps only with 90% of subjects. For the 10 remaining % of subjects it just says I am not able to.
Is it better or worse than the contender that nails 90% of focus with 100% of the subjects ?
Should I understand that X2D autofocus is worse than X1D ?
@@jean-claudemuller3199 No: especially when it works, face detection is a clear advance. But it is fair to understand the evolution of AF performance on the X series cameras as slower going than the rest of the industry.
“Heritage” - Aren’t they owned by China / DJI now 🤣🤣🤣