Hi Sean, thanks again for another handy diy! Ive watched this a few times before finally tackling the job myself this weekend (went w the TMS solid monoball RTAB) and since i had the standard RTAB tool from bimmerworld i figured it’d be a cakewalk… Nope, turned out the standard RTAB tool is no good for installing these solid monoball style RTABs! So yes, you using the ball joint tool kit press is actually the correct way! I ended up having to go to the hardware store midway and picking up a ball joint tool kit as well and installing like you did. I really wish Turner or other online sources mentioned this! (their own instructions dont even say what tool to use) The standard RTAB tool is meant to be used with oem style bushings, using it with the solid ones itll end up pushing on the inner joint rather the metal housing of the monoball RTAB, thus damaging the bushing! So yes guys, Sean using the ball joint tool to install is actually the right move! Dont use the RTAB tool to install solid monoball bushings! Hope this helps someone else in future and saves them the few hours of frustration i lost this weekend ha
I link your videos and channel in many of my online discussions. I think you are number ONE on YT as a reliable source for the best mods to our cars! You dont need a hard core track dedicated E46 M3 to benefit from most of your mods. Huge fan! -Dave (I AM the warranty, now!)
Yeah, Bra! I am going to replace my RTABS soon. They are shot. Unfortunately I cant swing the price of the Bimmerworld ones yet, I am DYING to get them. Later. For now it is a pair of dirt cheap Lemforders. At least I have TMS Limiters on my RTAB arms. I will be using your video as a guide. I broke down and actually bought a very, very decently made RTAB removal tool specific to the E46. Seems the E46 M3 is pretty popular in Turkey of all places. I think I paid $54 shipped for the tool.
Doh! You know, I wish I had thought of that. I have already spent the # on the Lemforders. Next year, I will pop them out and install something stiffer. Probably the Bimmerworld ones. I just looked on Ebay. The nicely built RTAB removal tool I bought for $56(shipped) is now priced at $184.00. I got lucky. Mine is the same thing from the same company in a gold/yellow anodizing (instead of the current snazzy blue) which must not have sold well. I am really glad I took the ugly color and saved $125! I have this exact tool but I paid only $56 www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-RTAB-Tool-E46-E36-Z4-Rear-trailing-arm-bushing-M3-325i-330i-Blue-color/132086313512?hash=item1ec0f53228 Going to do the job as soon as it gets below 90 degrees here in Fort Lauderdale. Whew!
Awesome video! Did you have any issues with the RACP / rear subframe mounting points? Planning to get mine inspected, repaired, and reinforced (Redish V2 plates), before performing a full rear suspension refresh with aftermarket parts. Afraid of all the spot welds, hairline cracks, etc. including the interior behind the sheet metal of the back seat where the front internal mounts exist (defective MIG welds).. wondering if you addressed the general rear subframe problems. Thanks!
Nice Sean I always wondered if a bearing would be a better solution. This will obviously allow the wheel to move up and down in the arch with almost no resistance other than that provided by the shock and spring. Love it 😊
Thanks Danny. I always felt the rear being kinda "floaty" in the turns... adding the rear wing definitely helped but we'll see if this RTAB bearing will make a bigger difference.
Just posted my latest track video. I've made a few changes at the same time but I can say the handling feels almost perfect. I get a little bit of understeer but that's a simple front sway bar adjustment. The rear feels very, very planted now.
Would have been nice to move a bit the bushing cover , after instal, until putting it back in the place. So we can see what is the movement of the new trailing arm.
Sorry. I meant adjustable rear CAMBER arms . www.turnermotorsport.com/p-340474-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-pair-e36-e46-e85-turner-motorsport-streettrack/?pdk=Aw I did not see a pair on your car. I dont know how you can dial in accurate camber on a lowered car. I could not until I got the arms
Put the bearing/bushing assembly in the freezer. Take a propane torch and heat the crap out of the arm. Put some high temperature nickel never seize on the bushing and press it in ....it should slide right in.
@Henry I prefer THIS for all my poly bushings: www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.11104 BEST POLYURETHANE BUSHING GREASE - FORMULA 5 BY ES They sell it on Amazon too. www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-11104-Formula-Prelube/dp/B000CN7B4I Sticky as a taffy apple. Stays put for years. Some poly bushes will never squeak. This lube GUARANTEES that!
did you remove the spring and or the control arm to get the trailing arm low enough? i am having a issue getting the arm low enough to get the ball joint press to fit without hitting the side skirt, there isnt enough room. any help would be greatly appreciated
you need to clean the trailing arm bracket to shiny metal (getting rid of any corrosion, dried lube, etc) and then lubricate the new bushings, the center pin, and the thru bolt well using a copper or nickel based antiseize before installing.
God someone whos educated, I was looking around for a video to see what’s needed. Had kids talking about “only use oem because you can’t get full articulation from poly and solid.” I was like bro..... there’s different constructions.
Yea you need to otherwise you risk causing excessive amounts of stress on them, i did install bushes but not do alignment in just one month there was play again in the suspension bushes because the tires remained curved in a lil bit
advice for next time: Rather than use a large bar on the clamp, try use an impact wrench. Yes people will say that's not the way to do it, but with the bar you put a lot of twisting force on the other trailing arms' bushings, which I don't like. Or otherwise try blocking the other arms with a jack underneath.
Hi Sean, thanks again for another handy diy! Ive watched this a few times before finally tackling the job myself this weekend (went w the TMS solid monoball RTAB) and since i had the standard RTAB tool from bimmerworld i figured it’d be a cakewalk…
Nope, turned out the standard RTAB tool is no good for installing these solid monoball style RTABs! So yes, you using the ball joint tool kit press is actually the correct way! I ended up having to go to the hardware store midway and picking up a ball joint tool kit as well and installing like you did. I really wish Turner or other online sources mentioned this! (their own instructions dont even say what tool to use) The standard RTAB tool is meant to be used with oem style bushings, using it with the solid ones itll end up pushing on the inner joint rather the metal housing of the monoball RTAB, thus damaging the bushing!
So yes guys, Sean using the ball joint tool to install is actually the right move! Dont use the RTAB tool to install solid monoball bushings! Hope this helps someone else in future and saves them the few hours of frustration i lost this weekend ha
Great video, thanks for sharing! Looking forward to your review after the trackday w/ this upgrade
Thanks!
Good job Man !!! 💪🏽🔥💪🏽🔥 appreciate the info
Great video!
I link your videos and channel in many of my online discussions. I think you are number ONE on YT as a reliable source for the best mods to our cars! You dont need a hard core track dedicated E46 M3 to benefit from most of your mods. Huge fan!
-Dave (I AM the warranty, now!)
Thanks Dave! I appreciate the feedback and support!
Yeah, Bra! I am going to replace my RTABS soon. They are shot. Unfortunately I cant swing the price of the Bimmerworld ones yet, I am DYING to get them. Later.
For now it is a pair of dirt cheap Lemforders. At least I have TMS Limiters on my RTAB arms.
I will be using your video as a guide.
I broke down and actually bought a very, very decently made RTAB removal tool specific to the E46. Seems the E46 M3 is pretty popular in Turkey of all places. I think I paid $54 shipped for the tool.
Sounds good! I had the PowerFlex poly RTAB before these BW ones and they were a good compromise that weren't too expensive.
Doh! You know, I wish I had thought of that. I have already spent the # on the Lemforders. Next year, I will pop them out and install something stiffer. Probably the Bimmerworld ones.
I just looked on Ebay. The nicely built RTAB removal tool I bought for $56(shipped) is now priced at $184.00. I got lucky. Mine is the same thing from the same company in a gold/yellow anodizing (instead of the current snazzy blue) which must not have sold well.
I am really glad I took the ugly color and saved $125!
I have this exact tool but I paid only $56
www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-RTAB-Tool-E46-E36-Z4-Rear-trailing-arm-bushing-M3-325i-330i-Blue-color/132086313512?hash=item1ec0f53228
Going to do the job as soon as it gets below 90 degrees here in Fort Lauderdale. Whew!
Nice, sounds good! Yes, that tool makes the DIY a lot easier! I borrowed tools from AutoZone that worked, but was more difficult.
Awesome video! Did you have any issues with the RACP / rear subframe mounting points? Planning to get mine inspected, repaired, and reinforced (Redish V2 plates), before performing a full rear suspension refresh with aftermarket parts. Afraid of all the spot welds, hairline cracks, etc. including the interior behind the sheet metal of the back seat where the front internal mounts exist (defective MIG welds).. wondering if you addressed the general rear subframe problems. Thanks!
Nice Sean I always wondered if a bearing would be a better solution. This will obviously allow the wheel to move up and down in the arch with almost no resistance other than that provided by the shock and spring. Love it 😊
Thanks Danny. I always felt the rear being kinda "floaty" in the turns... adding the rear wing definitely helped but we'll see if this RTAB bearing will make a bigger difference.
Looking forward to hearing how it improved things :-)
Just posted my latest track video. I've made a few changes at the same time but I can say the handling feels almost perfect. I get a little bit of understeer but that's a simple front sway bar adjustment. The rear feels very, very planted now.
Good video and very informative
Thanks Kyvin!
Would have been nice to move a bit the bushing cover , after instal, until putting it back in the place. So we can see what is the movement of the new trailing arm.
I have the Turner adjustable rear trailing arms installed and that makes alignment so much easier to do.
Cool!
Sorry. I meant adjustable rear CAMBER arms . www.turnermotorsport.com/p-340474-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-pair-e36-e46-e85-turner-motorsport-streettrack/?pdk=Aw
I did not see a pair on your car. I dont know how you can dial in accurate camber on a lowered car. I could not until I got the arms
Oh, I'm running Ground Control rear camber arms. It's hard to see because of the camera angle but you can see a part of it at 4:40.
SeanS54
If they are red and yellow, yes, I can just barely see them.
Yes, check out this video at 1:22 th-cam.com/video/gkojtUI34vA/w-d-xo.html
Put the bearing/bushing assembly in the freezer. Take a propane torch and heat the crap out of the arm.
Put some high temperature nickel never seize on the bushing and press it in ....it should slide right in.
Good tips!
Yep. Old trick. MANY an interference fit part is assembled this way. No presses usually needed. Just a few taps/whacks with a mallet.
What about copper grease would that work?
I think that'll be fine. The lube is just to get it in.
@Henry
I prefer THIS for all my poly bushings:
www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.11104
BEST POLYURETHANE BUSHING GREASE - FORMULA 5 BY ES
They sell it on Amazon too.
www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-11104-Formula-Prelube/dp/B000CN7B4I
Sticky as a taffy apple. Stays put for years. Some poly bushes will never squeak. This lube GUARANTEES that!
did you remove the spring and or the control arm to get the trailing arm low enough? i am having a issue getting the arm low enough to get the ball joint press to fit without hitting the side skirt, there isnt enough room. any help would be greatly appreciated
Can you use that ball joint tool to remove the oem bushings ?
Bro visited both my jobs in one video
How are these bushings holding up?
So you did not preload the bushing?
Oh man I wish I can do this in my e46 but there is not chick filA in my area
Sean, how are these holding up? Just ordered a set but the guys on NAM3Forums really don't like them. What's your experience been?
When you had the powerflex poly bushings, did it have mouse squealing sounds when driving around on even and uneven roads?
you need to clean the trailing arm bracket to shiny metal (getting rid of any corrosion, dried lube, etc) and then lubricate the new bushings, the center pin, and the thru bolt well using a copper or nickel based antiseize before installing.
God someone whos educated, I was looking around for a video to see what’s needed. Had kids talking about “only use oem because you can’t get full articulation from poly and solid.” I was like bro..... there’s different constructions.
I guess I am pretty off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream new movies online?
@Tanner Wayne I use Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
@Casey Casen Definitely, been watching on Flixzone for months myself :)
@Casey Casen thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it !
@Tanner Wayne You are welcome =)
You have to get an alignment after you install the bushings?
Yea you need to otherwise you risk causing excessive amounts of stress on them, i did install bushes but not do alignment in just one month there was play again in the suspension bushes because the tires remained curved in a lil bit
Looks like Allen from Carmax of dulles
Do u live in los angles?
Nope, Nor Cal!
What rims do you have?
It's apex arc8
C clamp
advice for next time: Rather than use a large bar on the clamp, try use an impact wrench. Yes people will say that's not the way to do it, but with the bar you put a lot of twisting force on the other trailing arms' bushings, which I don't like. Or otherwise try blocking the other arms with a jack underneath.
Chic fil a!!!! :D
At least once a week! LOL
Sorry Porn N Cheese, I don't think SeanS54 can't really tell you any difference because there's none.