Started the process to drop rails and do flush fill on AHC. Rain right into rusted realized bolts. Bought an extractor set and going to get the benzomatic to get the bolts that connect to the frame loose. Gave the ones that would move a couple good doses if PB Blaster. Thanks for helping with the confidence to handle!
Great info! An impact gun tends to be my choice as well, the impacts help crack the rust loose in my experience after heating and penetrating oil. Also for surface rust a needle scaler will help get the big chunks off and get into those spots that you can't get a wire wheel in.
Thanks for watching and for the advice! I don't own a needle scaler, but now that you mention it, that would be a handy thing to have. Seems like a prime candidate to add to my next Harbor Freight shopping trip :)
No B.S. and right to the point !! You get right to the heart of the matter dude. I alway's preach about using heat to losen any rust on the projects i tackle.
Thanks for the advice! One of those looks like it would do the job a lot better than my MAPP gas solution. Got one on my wish list now. If Santa doesn't bring it...well...guess it'll just be a gift to myself :)
Sounds like a solid dealer if you ask me. I would have appreciated there strait up honesty befor getting into it. They didn’t want to suck you dry on paper man
Frame looked cracked to me. I would of welded it up if it were me depending on how bad it was. I couldn't really tell. Maybe some of that undercoating too but I don't know.
Not cracked thank goodness. Just surface crap cracking and flaking off. spent a couple hours with a wire wheel, wire brush, and sand paper cleaning off surface rust before hitting it with a rust converter for now. Next year I'd like to go over it all more thoroughly then coat with POR 15.
Welp, it's on its way. Still need a new parking brake cable and to re-install the parking brakes themselves. But at least the dang cable should be accessible now with the ability to drop the gas tank. Baby steps :)
Despise having to deal with salt state rust! To add to your tricks: I prefer starting with a breaker bar, but not all in one direction. Once it moves a tiny fraction, tighten it back up. Repeat until you get get a full revolution on it. For your broken flush ones, forget the ez-outs. Plan on thread repair inserts. (Heli coil) Invest in a cobalt drill bit for the insert drill size. Lots of pressure and LOW RPM. Your cordless will have enough torque, but keep the chuck speed down. Drill out all the nasty and insert fresh threads. May the Force be With You, brave one!
Great advice! Done the "tighten it first" trick a few times myself as well. It does certainly help. As to the busted bolt, I was starting to lean towards an action similar to what you suggest. i.e., grind it flush, center punch, drill out, then just re-thread. It would figure though that the broken fastener is the hardest of the bunch location wise. Not much room to swing a drill, so it might take some creative angles and expletives :)
@@TomtheDilettante Yes! Mapp gas and expletives are required in these matters! Without seeing it, I can’t give much more for ideas. I’ll bet you don’t have the meat in the skid plate to drill a new hole next to it, either. If you could, you’d have a fastener in essentially the same place. Use one of those overgrown u-nuts up top on the frame maybe.
Ya know? Hadn't really heard of one of those until you and some others suggested it here in the comments. Looked it up and it's now on my Xmas wish list on Amazon LOL. Watched a couple TH-cam videos on it as well and that definitely looks like something I just have to have :). Thanks for the tip!
I would not recommend it since the heat may transfer quickly to your brake calipers causing the fluid to boil which will compromise your brake system. Furthermore, and I could be wrong, but localized heating on certain wheels may also damage or weaken the wheel. If they're stuck, I'd start with a good soak in some penetrating oil, and use a breaker bar with the correct sized socket. You can with a slight clockwise turn (tightening) to try to break things loose. If it breaks loose, spray more penetrating oil and let soak. then try loosening. I've been able to get really rusted fasteners out using this method of loosen, tighten, soak, repeat. hope that helps.
How to use heat to remove rusted bolts? Should I lay the flames on the nut or just on the inner side of the bolt? or should I never lay the heat on the bolts itself and just heat the surrounding surface around the bolt/nut? Should I try to remove the bolts whilst is it hot or wait for it to cool down. Can someone please help me with the actual procedure?
You belong on the radio, friend! You’re voice was made to be heard by the masses
Started the process to drop rails and do flush fill on AHC. Rain right into rusted realized bolts. Bought an extractor set and going to get the benzomatic to get the bolts that connect to the frame loose. Gave the ones that would move a couple good doses if PB Blaster. Thanks for helping with the confidence to handle!
Great info! An impact gun tends to be my choice as well, the impacts help crack the rust loose in my experience after heating and penetrating oil. Also for surface rust a needle scaler will help get the big chunks off and get into those spots that you can't get a wire wheel in.
Thanks for watching and for the advice! I don't own a needle scaler, but now that you mention it, that would be a handy thing to have. Seems like a prime candidate to add to my next Harbor Freight shopping trip :)
I enjoy the content and format of your productions, and I always learn something! Music’s good, too. Thanks.
No B.S. and right to the point !! You get right to the heart of the matter dude. I alway's preach about using heat to losen any rust on the projects i tackle.
Miniductor induction heater is like a magic wand for rust, and you can use it safely next to things like gas tanks.
Thanks for the advice! One of those looks like it would do the job a lot better than my MAPP gas solution. Got one on my wish list now. If Santa doesn't bring it...well...guess it'll just be a gift to myself :)
I love mine. The competitor is “Bolt Buster”. They do the same thing.
Aren't they pretty expensive?
thanks for introducing me to MAPGAS. i was using propane and like ya said, just not getting it hot enough
I like your video no nonsense, no Long play cheesy music just straight to the point cut and dry 👍.
Great video as always. I worked just around the house, but the main project i am doing is the restoration of my antique car.
Ooh! What kind of car are you restoring? That sounds like an awesome project!
@@TomtheDilettante 1931 model A ford deluxe coupe
Sounds like a solid dealer if you ask me. I would have appreciated there strait up honesty befor getting into it. They didn’t want to suck you dry on paper man
🤛 great advice I have a crosstrek and I dig your channel
Thanks much! Still have my Crosstrek. Still lovin it :)
Frame looked cracked to me. I would of welded it up if it were me depending on how bad it was. I couldn't really tell. Maybe some of that undercoating too but I don't know.
Not cracked thank goodness. Just surface crap cracking and flaking off. spent a couple hours with a wire wheel, wire brush, and sand paper cleaning off surface rust before hitting it with a rust converter for now. Next year I'd like to go over it all more thoroughly then coat with POR 15.
@@TomtheDilettante Very good.
Glad u got the parking brake sorted
Welp, it's on its way. Still need a new parking brake cable and to re-install the parking brakes themselves. But at least the dang cable should be accessible now with the ability to drop the gas tank. Baby steps :)
Despise having to deal with salt state rust! To add to your tricks: I prefer starting with a breaker bar, but not all in one direction. Once it moves a tiny fraction, tighten it back up. Repeat until you get get a full revolution on it.
For your broken flush ones, forget the ez-outs. Plan on thread repair inserts. (Heli coil) Invest in a cobalt drill bit for the insert drill size. Lots of pressure and LOW RPM. Your cordless will have enough torque, but keep the chuck speed down.
Drill out all the nasty and insert fresh threads. May the Force be With You, brave one!
Great advice! Done the "tighten it first" trick a few times myself as well. It does certainly help. As to the busted bolt, I was starting to lean towards an action similar to what you suggest. i.e., grind it flush, center punch, drill out, then just re-thread. It would figure though that the broken fastener is the hardest of the bunch location wise. Not much room to swing a drill, so it might take some creative angles and expletives :)
@@TomtheDilettante Yes! Mapp gas and expletives are required in these matters!
Without seeing it, I can’t give much more for ideas. I’ll bet you don’t have the meat in the skid plate to drill a new hole next to it, either. If you could, you’d have a fastener in essentially the same place. Use one of those overgrown u-nuts up top on the frame maybe.
That's a really nice vehicle, what is it?
Great Radio announcer voice. Totally Jelly
Bad ass Shimi! Now I got a plan to get some bolts loose on Slayer.
👍👍
Have you tried a miniductor inductive heater? It's a high tech gadget that uses a magnetic field to heat bolts with no fire.
Ya know? Hadn't really heard of one of those until you and some others suggested it here in the comments. Looked it up and it's now on my Xmas wish list on Amazon LOL. Watched a couple TH-cam videos on it as well and that definitely looks like something I just have to have :). Thanks for the tip!
Could I use a heat gun for rusted lug nuts? I don’t have impact gun or any gas powered heater.
I would not recommend it since the heat may transfer quickly to your brake calipers causing the fluid to boil which will compromise your brake system. Furthermore, and I could be wrong, but localized heating on certain wheels may also damage or weaken the wheel. If they're stuck, I'd start with a good soak in some penetrating oil, and use a breaker bar with the correct sized socket. You can with a slight clockwise turn (tightening) to try to break things loose. If it breaks loose, spray more penetrating oil and let soak. then try loosening. I've been able to get really rusted fasteners out using this method of loosen, tighten, soak, repeat. hope that helps.
@@TomtheDilettante what kind of penetrating oil would work well? WD40?
@@dmac5678 I use PB Blaster almost exclusively and it's served me well
I am so glad to live in the Southwest. Rust what is that. I'm not sure what it is. Ha ha.
LOL! So much envy!!
How to use heat to remove rusted bolts? Should I lay the flames on the nut or just on the inner side of the bolt? or should I never lay the heat on the bolts itself and just heat the surrounding surface around the bolt/nut? Should I try to remove the bolts whilst is it hot or wait for it to cool down. Can someone please help me with the actual procedure?
That looks like a lot of work 😳
That it was. And dirty work to boot :P
scotch excellent project
LOL! Indeed
Nice
How I wish I could just jack stuff up. Look at it and be like..... no. Not doing it. Lol. And get shop time not flat rate.
Waterpump