This is the wrong way to do it unless you’re charging by the hour. You can remove the damper fork without disconnecting the whole hub. First wiggle off the fork from the damper by twisting and pulling it down at the same time (highly recommend letting the strut/fork mating area soak in penetrating oil for a while). Put some weight on the rotor to push the control arm down and get a gap between the fork at the strut. (I was able to do it alone by putting a cloth on top of the rotor and laying my chest on it while manipulating the fork with my arms...it's easier if you have a buddy with a pry bar or something). Push the bottom of the strut into the car and pull the top of the fork towards the rotor. The fork will wiggle out in the direction of the caliper diagonally. To get the strut out you may need to Jack the rotor up a little to change the angle of the upper arm. It's a bit of a process where you'll have to move around the strut and jack the hub up a few times to work it out (I can't remember which angle the strut eventually comes out at). But 100% sure you can change the strut without doing all the hub axle stuff. Make sure to fully compress the suspension before you torque down all the nuts and bolts you undid (jack the rotor at 6 o clock [it might suddenly rotate on you so gotta be dead on], or jack the control arm up on the lower ball joint until the pinch weld comes slightly off the jack stand).
I’m doing this same job today and after putting the new shock I am not able to put back the cv axle in the disc. I’ve been trying all day twisting and pushing but it just won’t go
Seems like 99% of the struts I find for this car are 6 studs at the top, my 2009 Accord LX only has opening/slots for 3 studs (base model LX), it doesn't have a sway bar (which takes the other 3) running between the two strut towers .... do I just grind the extra studs off?
No. The LX only has stickers covering the extra holes so you can just punch through them. The body is the same as the higher trims that have the strut brace and it's an easy conversion to add the strut brace. I did this with my 2012 LX.
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This is the wrong way to do it unless you’re charging by the hour. You can remove the damper fork without disconnecting the whole hub. First wiggle off the fork from the damper by twisting and pulling it down at the same time (highly recommend letting the strut/fork mating area soak in penetrating oil for a while). Put some weight on the rotor to push the control arm down and get a gap between the fork at the strut. (I was able to do it alone by putting a cloth on top of the rotor and laying my chest on it while manipulating the fork with my arms...it's easier if you have a buddy with a pry bar or something). Push the bottom of the strut into the car and pull the top of the fork towards the rotor. The fork will wiggle out in the direction of the caliper diagonally. To get the strut out you may need to Jack the rotor up a little to change the angle of the upper arm. It's a bit of a process where you'll have to move around the strut and jack the hub up a few times to work it out (I can't remember which angle the strut eventually comes out at). But 100% sure you can change the strut without doing all the hub axle stuff. Make sure to fully compress the suspension before you torque down all the nuts and bolts you undid (jack the rotor at 6 o clock [it might suddenly rotate on you so gotta be dead on], or jack the control arm up on the lower ball joint until the pinch weld comes slightly off the jack stand).
I liked how the fork, cv joint and rotor switched from old to new....
are those used struts you put back in there? iam confused or were you just showing us how to do it?
This is the long and harder version on how to replace struts. Look elsewhere for a how to video on strut replacement.
This is the long version
I’m doing this same job today and after putting the new shock I am not able to put back the cv axle in the disc. I’ve been trying all day twisting and pushing but it just won’t go
Where is the part where you remove the springs ?
Super over complicated I did it last night and didn’t remove anything but the upper ball joint
Seems like 99% of the struts I find for this car are 6 studs at the top, my 2009 Accord LX only has opening/slots for 3 studs (base model LX), it doesn't have a sway bar (which takes the other 3) running between the two strut towers .... do I just grind the extra studs off?
No. The LX only has stickers covering the extra holes so you can just punch through them. The body is the same as the higher trims that have the strut brace and it's an easy conversion to add the strut brace. I did this with my 2012 LX.
@@someusername121 You're very much correct, I had to clean the strut tower to see it but it does in fact have the bolt holes under black stickers!