How to Remove the Intake manifold Volvo 3.2L engine SI6 LR2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ธ.ค. 2024
- Here I explain step by step how to remove the intake on the Volvo 3.2 SI6 and LR2 engines.
The 3.0T would be easier would not need to go under the vehicle to remove the two bottom bolts due to difference in the intake pipes for the turbo charger and the inter-cooler.
Here is a link to my video on how to replace the Alternator if that is the reason you removing the intake.
• Volvo LR2 3.0T 3.2SI6 ...
I hope this video helps if you like the video click the thumps up and the subscribe button and the notification bell.
Thank you for watching and have a grate day,
I just had my alternator replaced in my 2012 Volvo XC60 3.2 non turbo. This was a great video. Excellent explanation and video close ups. No crappy music in the background. Again we’ll done kudos to you sir. Thank you.
You are welcome.
I used this video when replacing a leaking coolant hose. Reading through some of the comments, I notice how you provide help to us DIY’ers. Thanks for taking the time to make our lives a little easier and less costly.
Thank you.
same coolant hose I’m probably replacing right now
@@Masia315 hope it went smoother than mine.
Such a good video with great detail. People sometimes forget the effort it takes to convey this information...good job young man. Thank you and looking forward to more time permitting.
Thank you
You have been an absolute godsend! Had a blown head gasket in a 2007 freelander 2. Cheapest quote I got was $8000. Did it all myself with your help. Fantastic videos. Keep doing what you're doing
Thank you.
Amazing information, very well explained and articulated videos, your videos have help me immensely; I am in the process of finishing a cylinder head complete job on my Volvo XC90 3.2l, without the related videos of DIY I would had been at lost and junk my car. Thank you, continue the great work of sharing your knowledge.
This video was very useful. Not to many videos about how to work on a Volvo out there. Plz make more videos. As a new Volvo owner I have a lot to learn about my 2010 t6 Xc60 and I find your videos to be very helpful. Thanks a million
Just want to say thanks for these 2 videos. I followed them both to replace the alternator on a s80 with same engine. The manifold was a bit tricky to take out and put back in but after much fiddling its all back together and running again. What failed on my car was the alternator pulley clutch was locked up and not free spinning so it backed that pulley bolt out. Thanks again I followed these 2 videos exactly and car is good for another 160k hopefully. sub'd
Thank you glad I was able to help.
I’ve been looking for a vid to help replace the MAP sensor for my 08 LR2. This is the most helpful one I’ve found
You just saved me alot of guess work with this video and the video of you rolling the alternator coupling with a pry bar. Saved me a ton of time.
Am happy to help..
I had a hell of a time getting the intake off. I think the LR2 is alittle more compact. Thinking I'll have to pivot the rad alittle away from the block to buy maybe an inch more. Do you use any kind of spray to help loosen the electrical socket connections? Alot of mine were a real pain to break free.
@@patricksecord1447 I do not use any to be honest but the throttle body and the MAP sensor connectors are pain.
Excellent video and very timely (for me). Your calming manner and voice is a welcome change from many of the hyped up YT posters.
Thank you.
Answered my question here about the gaskets, I asked on your other video. Much appreciated for posting these. Going to tackle this as soon as my auto parts store gets an alternator in stock.
Just a minor point to remove the dip-stick so as not to break off the top. Other than that...great job explain the finer points of intake manifold removal on the 3.2 motor.
Thank you.
Best video on this topic I have seen! Thanks as always for detailed explanations. Super helpful, very practical and informative! Absolutely love all your videos. Thanks again!
Thank you...
Such a great step by step detailed video, thanks for tutoring! ❤
Thank you.
Thank you Volvo guy!!! Am doing the job now, so helpful.. Alternator.
Fantastic video. Really on point and helpful. I had a 10mm rod that worked perfectly to send the inserts home. Thanks for putting this together
That was a good video, because I needed to know how to remove the intake to change the engine temperature sensor although I’ve been told some people are able to do it without removing the manifold
Maybe on turbo engines since you have not room.
Thank you for making this video. You are a good instructor. Very detailed.
Thank you.
I really enjoyed the video on replacing the alternator. Hope you will do a video on electronic parking brakes from start to finishing.Thank you very much.
can u please post the link for replacing the alternator
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing the vdo. I’m almost done removing the intake manifold except for one connector sitting at the bottom left of the manifold below the dipstick. How do I disconnect that one? There is no clip to push on the side. Thanks. Paul
Paul, I’m using your forum to replace my thermostat on my ‘10 s80. The connector at the bottom can be very tricky, I just used a lot of pressure until i heard a click. Is there any advice you may have for putting the bleeder hose back on?
Subscribed, and thanks! Gna try and get into this this weekend to replace the oil cooler but it’s so COLD!!
Hey. Thank you for taking the time to film this. I just got an '08 XC70 for my wife (her last car was a v60 and it likely saved her from some serious injuries when she got t-boned). Anyway, it's got a hell of a vacuum leak on banks 1 & 2, and it doesn't seem to be on the upper portion of the manifold or immediately behind the MAS.... Regardless, your video has already been super helpful in regards to detailing what's out of my sight and I'm excited to get underneath the vehicle now - again, thank you - I don't feel like I'm flying blind, now. You don't suck!
Thank for taking the time to leave your comment. It helps me to keep pushing myself to do more. Volvos are the safest cars you can buy. Let me know if you need any help. Thanks again.
Saved me hundreds of pounds.. Thanks so much for your post. 👍
You are welcome.
You make it look easy. Great work.
Thanks 👍
Excellent tutorial video. thanks for posting.🤩
You are welcome.
Hi'...is it necessary to add adhesive to the manifold after replacing new gaskets ?
No not at all.
Thanks. I really enjoy your insightful techniques and "tricks" of your trade. If only there were more people following your footsteps of this much needed profession. You're an excellent teacher.
Hi, thanks for the video. I removed the bleeder hose and spilled coolant inside the manifold. After reasembly i noticed white smoke. Is it safe to say the coolant will evaporate? Thanks
Thank you
I guess it's about same procedure to get the throttle board out for cleaning/servicing
Or can it be done solely without removing the manifold system?
It can be done without removing the intake.
Great video. You show everything and explain well.
Thank you
Thanks, just about to do this job tomorrow to replace my alternator.
You are welcome
I’m currently in the process of removing the intake manifold on my LandRover LR2. Same engine as your Volvo however spacing under the hood seems a bit tighter on the LR2.
Looks like we have the same engine mount beside the coolant reservoir too.
I removed the mount but now I’m unsure how to push the engine back so I can have enough space to pull out the intake manifold.
Any suggestions? I’m really trying to avoid removing coolant/power steering lines
I’m at 315,000km and plan on replacing the engine mount arm, alternator, possibly the idler pulley/tensioner, water pump, and power steering pump as well.
Since you have to remove half the fricken engine for one part. I figure to get it all done while I’m down there.
Any advice on tilting the engine towards the cab would be very helpful for me as I haven’t found a video showing this step. Thanks your vid is super helpful.
Figured it out. You need to undo coolant reservoir, remove the engine mount on top and bottom underneath.
Then use a pry bar and push the entire engine towards the cab. And boom I now have access to everything
Its more likely closer to an xc90 setup.
Great video. I'm replacing the alternator on my 2014 XC60 3.2, just like in the video. I'm stuck on getting the last two sensors to be removed, the one on the left passenger side that can be gotten from the bottom side. At the 6:25 mark, you say to push the lever down and you will hear a click then pull back the connector back. The connector goes off screen so I can't see the "lever" and I'm not seeing anything that looks like a lever. Any help here would be appreciated. The other is the throttle body sensor. I seem to have better access from the bottom since there's a plate bracket in the way from the top . I can't get the coolant hose over the throttle body but after removing the bottom two manifold bolts I have a little more wiggle room to just get my hand in there. I've squeezed the tab on the block side but don't get the click so I can't wiggle the connector off. Any tips here?
I already watched the alternator video which looks to be huge time saver, especially the trick for the dowel pins. Once I get the alternator removed, the parts store needs the part number so they can tell if it's 150 or 180 amp.
Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
Coming from the future and have the same problem. How did you get the clip off?
Do you push on the top, sides or bottom?
Thanks
@@pgreenx you push the hose in and pull back on the clip and the hose will come off.
@@TheVolvoGuy thanks. That helped a lot!
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks again - do you happen to know the torque spec for two intake mani bolts on the bottom with the grommets?
I pulled Vida and couldn't find it; I got it off and on thanks to you
If I have wanted to clean my throttlebody on my 2011, Volvo XC 60 would I need to remove the intake or can I just remove the throttlebody from underneath the car
You can just remove the throttle, but it's not easy tight space
OK. I have a 2008 LR2 and the intake manifold cant get past the overflow bleeder valve (see 3:35) I see you put a light blue cap to protect yours. What is this? The LR2 looks like it can be removed with a hex key. I was hoping it could be removed...what am I missing?
Thank you for a good video first time I doing one
Great Video, do you think you can undo the exhaust manifold bolts then slide the head off forward?, leaving the ext manifold in place, I need to remove the head.
If the screw is backed out do you have to buy a new gear or can you just replace the old one and what is the special tool to replace it
Yes new gear and new bolt also inspect the alternator clutch pulley make sure it works as it should locks one way and spins free the other way.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you your video help me a lot the pulley on the alternator is bad I am thinking that what made the screw back out. Thank you again
Great video...just purchased a land rovet LR2 with a volvo engine...does not start and diagnostics says throttle body not working...will replace but do I have to remove intake?
No you can do it without on a volvo LR2 not sure if they give you the same space.
Appreciate this video ❤ us s80 owners thank you 🙏
No problem.
Nice video, question, on the lower portion of the intake is there another gasket that one should replace besides the top six when removing, getting ready to replace a couple of components and the intake manifold needs to come out to get to them
What you mean by valve? There is 6 rubber gaskets that you change and that is it. You should not need anything else to remove and reinstall the intake.
@@TheVolvoGuy auto correct fail, fixed the wording, sorry
Very good video my brother the best
Thank you.
Where do you recommend getting the gaskets for the intake manifold?
The dealership or you can find factory seals on eBay for cheaper sometimes.
Thanks! Are those rubber band poking gaskets the only gaskets required
@@ryinroberts9564 FCP Eruo is a GREAT place to purchase Volvo parts. JUST understand that it will take a few days to get the parts so plan ahead. I have used FCP for years.
Love your videos, they are pure gold.
Quick question. Did you clean the intake openings with anything before putting it back? What did you use, if so?
I wipe them down with alcohol if there is oil if it's dry then I would just put the gaskets back on and its good to go.
Helped me chaning the alternator! thanks!
Make sure your engine is cold when you pull the bleeder hose off. I just got a pretty bad burn by making that mistake.
True.
Great video thank you. You gave me the information need to get to my car thermostat. 👍
Do you have any videos on waterpump replacement on the same engine?
So the throttle body doesn't need reprogramming after disconnecting?
No it does not.
Hi I removed and reinstalled the intake to do an alternator job and now have "reduced engine performance" and getting Throttle Control errors P2106 / P1589. The connector went on fine so I will have to remove everything and re-check that. I wiped inside the throttle control and gently pushed open the valve to clean around the area. Could doing that have possibly damaged something?
Thanks for noting the LR2 applicability of this video. I find it annoying when Volvo specialist shops refuse to work on my 2012 LR2 3.2 engine and just refer me to the land rover dealer. I guess they have their reasons. :(
Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
Thanks for the video. I was able to remove the intake. But one connector lock mechanism broke. The one you reached from bottom. There is no place to zip tie it. Do I need new connecor? Where can I buy it? Thanks
Welcome. Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
At about 11:54 on the left side of intake...is that the map sensor?
I was cleaning the throttle body and after I put everything together I found the rubber bushing that it sits on and now have a barometric code. I never removed that so am puzzled as why it fell out.
Yes it is make sure it is plugged in all the way.
@@TheVolvoGuy quick update. Turns out a service from previous owner damaged the plug for the map sensor. I got codes p0105, p2227, p1719. Fixed it and cleared the codes. Everything ok now. Removing the map sensor is tricky if you don't know. There's no screws. Push down and turn clockwise to free it.
09 xc90 3.2.
Thanks for reply.
Edit-
At least for the xc90; it wasn't necessary to detach the coolant line. I was able to remove the intake without disturbing it. Warm coolant shot at my chest when I attempted to remove it. I drove to work to work on it so perhaps that pressurized it.
@@lawnmower5197 amazing 👏
@@lawnmower5197 @The Volvo Guy Do either of you happen to know the part number for the MAP sensor connector? The tab is broken off of mine so it won't stay in
@@beneley5884 it's 30658215. You can easily pry the white tab with a screw driver. I used the smallest "Precision Pick" I had to insert down the terminals and realse the "retaining tab" that holds each of the three individual terminals. Can't remeber if you lift up, or push down on the table. The terminals will slide out easily. If they don't easily come out, then you're doing it wrong. Make sure to hold the tab down or up as you slide the terminal out the back.
I figured out by guess and figuring how it logically would work. I also did this during a power out with a head lamp on so it's farily easy to do.
Quick tips:
Take pics of the color order of the terminals before starting.
Double check to ensure the order is correct before inserting into the map and starting the car.
Being a power out with poor lighting conditions, I mixed the order. Luckily I used a more power flashlight to observe my work before starting the car (you can appreciate how tedious it can be) and easily rectified my mistake.
What is the coolant hose below the manifold?
Good video. I just picked up a 2011 xc60 with the 3.2 that makes a terrible squealing sound from pass side rear of the engine at start and on acceleration until warm. Any idea what It could be? I see some sort of belt driven pump with a steel line that has 2 connections onthe rear of the block under the exhaust manifold. Could that be it and what is it? Vacuum pump? Also have a slipping transmission but do not want to chase that until I figure out the noise! Any help is appreciated!
When you hear the noise, pull the dip stick out and see if it goes away.
Hey great info I've used ur video for great resource and help on how to do Certain things on my volvo xc90 3.2l thx for that
But I have a question I took off the Intake manifold to rebuild the alternator when I put it back together I did not replace the intake seals they weren't that bad but I realized after I was finished it started running rich so I bought new sales I put them in and now it barely idols I wonder if there's a leak or something I missed somewhere engine code says it's the map Sensor bad But I don't think it's that I checked the manifold seals to make sure they were seated correctly any Suggestions
Make sure that map sensor is plugged all the way in as well as the throttle body and make sure the intake pipes and hoses all connected properly.
The new map sensor supposed to be here around 4 ish I'll double check everything to make sure but when I replaced the intake seals I didn't unplug any of that stuff so I don't know why it would make such a huge difference now We're barely runs This one's got me stumped
Do you still sell the intrake gaskets? I have a 3.3 I6...2009 XC90 with 240K miles
What should I pay attention in order to remove the intake pipe, after I loosened the screw ring? Thank you!
If you are talking about the clamp, then once you do that, you should be able to pull it off the throttle boday.
Thank you for this video. Is it possible to remove the throttle body without removing the intake on the 3.2 non turbo engine?
You could, but it's harder to do it that way.
Very helpful thanks alot keep the good work
Thank you.
Your video is very informative. I drove over a deep area of water during the heavy rains we had here in NY and my car stalled after driving a mile or so. I had it towed to my home and I removed the intake filter which was saturated with water and shredded. Now when I turn my car on it shut off. I am thinking some of the filter might have got into intake and clogged the throttle. I would like to know your opinion on my stituation
Yes it is possible where you about in NY?
I need to change the alt on a 2008 xc90 3.2l. And check the bolt . What’s the best deal on the gaskets for the intake ?
Try ebay they have good deals there stick to factory
Hi great video. 2013 xc60 3.2 has a terrible rattle when cold that sounds like it's coming from the intake area. Could it be something to do with the throttle? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
The is a flop door inside the intake if you have a noun turbo engine there should be 2 of them. I seen that go bad and makes a rattle noise
Hey I’m having some issues with our 2007 xc90! Please help. It’s the 3.2 Liter Non-turbo. I’ve replaced the alternator decoupled pulley and coupler belt, also the thermostat, in the process , obviously I had to remove air intake, well I did not know until later that I should have replaced the intake gaskets! Now it has gone into limp mode , I’m assuming it’s detected an air leak in manifold gaskets somewhere. Idles real rough and will not go above 2,000 rpm. Am I correct in my assumption in what’s going on?? It idled and ran correctly before and I know I did everything correctly w the exception of replacing manifold gaskets. Ik this is a lot of info but I’m trying to give all details. All of this started bc of a loud pulley/bearing noise coming from engine. I’ve replaced....idler pulley, water pump, alternator coupler pulley and coupler belt, also thermostat just bc I was there, but the whining,bearing noise is still there but more of a whining now. The water pump was worn, the alternator coupler bearing was also throwing grease out, plus idler pulley was bad, I really am stumped now. Could it possibly be this big PCV valve/plastic cover on top of the engine making all this noise, the whining? One mechanic told me water pump, then he said alternator coupler, well ive eliminated all that, what else could I be missing here. Obviously this Volvo was neglected on service on these parts and was just traded in at 115,000 mi. And unfortunately bought by my better half bc she “really liked it”. Lol ahhhhhh. Any thoughts?
Hi if the engine was running ok before the work was done then you are right it's the intake gaskets or you left something unplugged, so double check all the connectors if that's all good then the intake gaskets need to be replaced. Now for the noise once you get the engine running when the noise starts happening pull out the dipstick out if the noise stops that means it is your PCV box on top of the motor. And the pcv noise it does sound just like a belt noise and very common. Thank you for watch my video and let me know how you make out.
The Volvo Guy not making out so good, I replaced gaskets and still goes into limp mode, how tight are you supposed to tighten the intake manifold bolts? I have checked and rechecked everything, now instead of cutting in and out of limp mode it just stays in limp mode except it’s not idling as rough as before. What am I doing wrong?? I stayed home from work today to try to fix her car and now I am really scratching my head.
@@obxlife6158 was the car running ok before you removed the intake?
Which tool can I use to remove the intake on the bottom? It’s very hard to get to it without a tool. I have a flexible extender bit holder but still having trouble.
Get to it from the bottom
Thanks for this detailed video. Am trying to replace my intake gaskets. I want to know if if can get some if the gaskets to buy from you buy.
Is a turbo? Or noun turbo?
@@TheVolvoGuy non turbo. 2008 xc90. Six cylinder
A great detailed video!!!
Thank you.
Excellent video. Thanks for posting. I have a '13 XC60 with the T6 (3.0L) engine. Volvo replaced the bottom end of the engine in 2018 to rectify an issue with the timing chain system. At the time, they also replaced the accessory belt and associated pulleys. It seems that one of the pulleys is now failing because I can now hear a squealing noise coming from that area of the engine. I'm having a tough time finding any DYI instructional info on how to replace the belt/pulleys/water pump on this engine. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Make sure its not the PCV box making the noise. When you hear the noise pull the dip stick out and see if the noise go away..
Will do. However, I'm almost 100% that the noise if coming from a buried deep on the right side of the engine.
@@georgesarapa3651 if that is the case I can help you as much as I can.
@@TheVolvoGuy That would be great. Also, do you have experience diagnosing issues related to P0420 codes? My xc60 has been throwing this code on and off for over a year now (I reset using an OBD scanner). I've tried cycling through a gallon of lacquer thinner in a 1/2 tank of gas. That caused the CEL to go off for about 30 miles, then it returned. I've also tried other products like CataClean, etc. nothing works for long...if at all. Could this issue have to do with bad O2 sensors or is it likely a cat issue? Thanks again.
@@TheVolvoGuy good afternoon. As it turns out, the noise does go away as soon as I remove the dipstick. When I do, I also hear a hissing noise come from the dipstick tube. When I reinstall the dipstick, the noise returns in about 20 seconds. Bad PCV diaphram? Thanks!
Can you do a video on replacing all the rear end suspension components? I have a 09 XC90 SI6/ P2 Chassis. Jeff
That plug on the bottom left you said easier to unplug from the bottom what does that plug in to?
The intake MAP sensor
Thank you for very helpful video. Recently I got 2008 xc70. But I had some problem removing fuel rail and fuel injector. There is no connector between rail and fuel line. So I don’t know how to disconnect it. And another problem is that injectors seem to be stucked in there so they won’t come off. I am DIY mechanic. I need your help. Thanks.
Hi the only thing that holds the fuel rail is the 3 bolts you see on top the motor mount have to be removed in order to get the rail pulled out. The fuel injectors do get stuck in the cylinder head I would spray some penetrating oil and let it set. Then you have to work the injectors slowly until they come out. Some times the injectors will come out but the rubber seal and a ring and a cap will fall into the head so be careful.
Take your time spray the oil and keep working it slowly it takes time but it will work.
The Volvo Guy thank you so much for your clear solution. But what I am wondering is how fuel line connected to rail. If there is no connector then fuel will leak. Does it make sense? Might be stupid question.
@@JoeSushiMaster71 it's not a stupid question. The fuel line slides in side the rail from the bottom nothing locks it in place beside the 3 bolts that holds the rail.
The Volvo Guy thanks. Now I got more confidence in working on it. I am worried about making situation worse.
2011 XC90 3.2… replaced headers, cats, sensors, smoke tested and starter fluid tested all around manifold no leaks. Replaced mass air flow. No issue w oil trap (tried that fix too)
Still running rough and popping immediate 171 and 174… Any thoughts?
Disconnect the battery and short the terminals on the vehicle for 30 minutes and then clear the faults and run the engine and see how it runs.
very educative. thank you regards
Thank you.
Thank You for this video. If you see this... Is it necessary to remove the manifold to replace the alternator (or just do serpentine/pulley replacement) ? -
Yes it is.
I have a turbo car. If you disconnect the wire connectors do you have to relearn the tps?
No need to relearn
The sprocket spins freely after alternator removed. you stated comment if this happens- how is this fixed?
You have to replace the pully and the bolt that holds it and put some locktight
Hey Volvo guy, I just tore it all down, replaced the alternator and put it all back together. I started it up and it sputtered and died. Sounds like it was choking itself. I started it again and it started up and did the same thing. Any idea on where to start?
Check the throttle body connector. Make sure nothing got in it. And make sure it is plugged in all the way.
How do you remove the hose from the other side of where you removed the evap connector? This was the hose that you moved to get access to the throttle body clip. On my 08 XC70, the other end of that hose is connected to the other side of the throttle body. In the video, it is already disconnected, when you remove the entire intake assy. NEVER MIND: I now see that removing that one clip allows the whole assy to come out in one piece. Working shade tree style over here in the sleet and rain!
Great video after replacing all intake gaskets and everything and putting back together. I drove it for 60 miles and the lights came on saying that there was a leak in the intake manifold throttle body or maf sensor fault. I've redone the intakes checked the mass air flow sensor all responding perfectly On scan tool But well driving will suddenly losses all power have to get off the gas pedal for it to stop I can drive about a mile more an it well start doing it a again any Any idea what may cause it
Was this happening before the replacement of the intake gasket
@@TheVolvoGuy Drove perfect Intake gaskets did not need to be replaced we were doing Doing a alternator replacement and went ahead and put new gaskets
Also noticed that it does it more on bumpy roads than anything
@@justinparker2176 check all your wiring and connectors the throttle body connector make sure it is clipped all the way in. Do you have a check engine light?
Do you know the Part Number for the isolator grommet that you dropped? I'm missing one and can't find it in any parts catalog.
I found it myself: Volvo 30650381
Sorry just super busy
Can you do a video on replacing the thermostat on a 3.2
please let me know what's torque of the bolt for the loosing one holding for alternator belt. Thank you so much.
Am sorry I didn't understand which bolts are you talking about.
Hi, if I wanted to remove only the throttle body, what would I need to do? Can I just remove from the bottom of the car without touching the intake manifold?
If it's T6, it's easier, but the 3.2 would be more challenging
Where the oil in manifold comes from? Is it ok? What is the milage of this engine?
Good qustion the oil comes from the PCV system and every intake I remove I do see oil so it is normal.
And the gaskets are made to with stand oil that is why the gaskets are expensive.
With a lot of miles and age once you remove them you can not reuse them they get very hard.
But if there is A lot of oil then you might have a problem with your PCV box on top of the engine Or the CAM cover seal fails and it leaks oil in to the intake from the PCV channel behind the timing chain.
I hope this helps let me know if you have any other questions.
@@TheVolvoGuy you are the boss! I don't want to move intake out just to check because spending money like that means somebody is out of mind or just rich :-P
I am wondering if my engine is fine with what you say about cam cover because I am loosing oil and I don't know where. I read about that in technical journey and there was also written engines in 2010 or 2011 (I don't remember) were modified due to this leakage issue.
What do you think? Best wishes for you. And can't wait for other repairs on 3.0t6 or 3.2
@@Mr_glyptek yes Volvo had the worst time of their lives due to Oil consumption problems from 2010 until today. It was due to piston rings problem. And can cover seal but mainly the piston rings. 2007 did not have that problem. But possible over time the seal fails or the piston rings get old and burn more oil than normal.
How in the world did you get those connectors off? I’m fighting to get this intake out on my LR2. It’s getting stuck between the fuel rail and fan just an all around PITA. The Volvo looks like it has more room I can’t get my hand under the intake from above having to do it all from below. The Land Rover service manual shows everything done exactly as you did here
I believe it is the same. It's very tight but it can be done it's hard to show exactly how it gets done specially when I have to hold the phone.
The Volvo Guy yeah I understand. This thing is just kicking my butt!! It’s really tight might need to just get a friend with smaller hands to help me out.
@@Lindylohan501 having another person to help you is better than doing it by your self.
I have a question. I have a 2007 S80. I need to swap the engine. Does it have to be removed from the bottom subframe and all?
Yes it does. it comes out bottom.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you. Thats terrible lol 😆
No wonder the cost
@@aminorremodel367 yes lots of labor and some time things do not come a part easy.
I am about to try and fix the charging problem (high voltage warning) on a 2007 XC90 3.2L AWD. I've tried to research that model and it looks like the intake removal will be similar to what you show here. Does that sound right? If I do this, would a Bosch alternator work as a replacement, instead of the really expensive Volvo part? Also, I don't know if it's 150 amp, or 180 alternator? Thanks for any help you can offer. Outstanding video, you are a master at conveying information on this process!
Yes it should be the same procedure we never had any luck with after market alternators but I believe volvo alternators are Bosch also. But as far as the 180amp or 150 the only one can give that information is the dealership
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks Volvo Guy, your video is helping me to have the courage to do this repair (haha). I'll take the old one off, take it to the dealership to find the correct replacement. It seems a bit daunting, but your explanation puts a real world spin on this procedure. I've seen a new Bosch replacement online line for about half what Volvo wants (part # 36012382), but I"ll research it further to make sure. I've also read that the regulator is vehicle specific, and that part of this puzzle is critical. Thanks for your reply!
@@cullencochran1797 yes and the fact that you have over charging that means the problem is in the voltage regulator. You can replace it by its self but most of the time the shaft on the alternator where the brushes ride on would be worn out bad. And for that reason we usually replace the alternator as a unit. Am happy to help.
@@TheVolvoGuy Awesome ! Thanks for your reply once again. I will change out the whole unit (alternator w/regulator) , I understand what you mean about the brushes. Another fellow shows video of taking the regulator off, then goes on to show that it (the regulator brushes) ride on the armature inside the alternator, and will undoubtedly be worn there also. I can't thank you enough for your kind response, this will make this repair happen with confidence ! Your videos are "The Bomb" !! :)
@@cullencochran1797 no problem if you run into any trouble hit me up.. Thank you.
Can you please do a detailed video on removing the front and rear hub assemblies for my 2017 VOLVO XC60 T-6 R-design?
It was raining when I drove to Mississippi for my brothers funeral and I was only doing 25 mph and hit a pot hole that slightly bent my wheels on the right/passenger side. I hear a grinding noise since then. I’m back in New Mexico and the VOLVO dealer says all looks great but the driving sensation isn’t the same. Before this the VOLVO felt free and power was smooth and quiet. Now, all I hear is grinding from the front and rear hub assemblies. It’s a faint grinding noise. Before there was no noise. Just a smooth, quiet ride.
Jose Duran Jr.
PO Box 2807
Espanola. N. M. 87532
Get hold of me on Patreon.
Is there any way to replace the oil coolant hose without removing the intake manifold?
You might be able to but its not easy at all specially if you have the 3.2 noun turbo.
Great video.
Thank you very much
You are welcome.
What is the part number for the reverse lip seal?
I have a lot of people asking about this seal am going to post a new video today just for that lip seal.
The parts number for the lip seal is 30711317
Do you need to torque the intake back down after you remove it if so do you know what they should be torqued at
I do not use a torque wrench. But the torque is 17nm
@@TheVolvoGuy appreciate getting back thanks a lot
@@joshhicks1781 any time.
Awesome video! Looked very easy an decided to fix 2007 XC90 myself. Now I’m stuck SMH. Bottom two bolts are removed. The top clamp of the intake hose loosened and hose came off. However, the bottom part of the hose is not coming off. Any ideas of what I may be missing? Also, fluid will not stop coming out when removing bleeder hose. Appreciate your help.
So first you need to plug the where the bleeder hose so it stops leaking. For the intake pipe you just have to make sure the clamp is loose enough so you can twist it off the throttle body.
The Volvo Guy Thanks! I’ll let you know how it goes!
The Volvo Guy Thanks! Followed the instructions. The new alternator works! Car starts and runs. Only thing is that now I’m getting a check engine P2227 code.
@@geolive2291 what year and model is your volvo?
The Volvo Guy 2007 XC90 3.2 FWD
Do you know where the booster pressure sensor/air tank pressure sensor is I have a 06 XC90 2.5 5T I have part on the way and my code scanner saying that’s what the problem is
Its should be next to the air filter housing.
Is there any way to do this without lifting the vehicle up?
Yes you can
What a weird engine setup. Great tutorial. Seems like a pain in the ass, but doable.
True, it was due to not enough space.
Sweet thanks alot man. Ur the best. I'll let u know how I come out
You are welcome.
Can you tell me the order(colors) or the connector that goes to the throttle body
Do you mean the wire colors?
Do you know the two spec for reinstalling intake?
What specs are you looking for?
Love your videos. I appreciate the work you do. I am interested in purchasing the air intake gaskets. You mentioned that it would be a good idea to have the gaskets ready bcs they dry up from the oil burning.
I like to have them because its better to have them and not need them. Other wise you get stuck.
Good afternoon Volvo guy. I have a 2011 xc60 Volvo and I was very impressed with your video on removing intake to replace alternator. I did a multimeter test with everything on in car and I got a reading that fluctuated between13.90 to 14.90 and the battery checks out good. However, after the car is not driving for a week I get a low battery light. The battery looks like it is the original battery. I also took my car to the he local Auto zone and another car parts store and they tested both battery and alternator. Was told by both the battery is good and alternator is bad. Is it possible that on my 2011 Volvo that there was a a build in sensor that will show alternator as being bad if battery has a bad cell in it.
What is you battery draw? Also is your Sirius radio working or no? Your alternator seams to be charging okay. It is possible the battery loses charge due to the battery being old or a battery draw is to high.
The Volvo Guy .... Sorry for getting back so late. When I turned everything on in car . Was getting a reading on multimeter of 13.90 to 14.80..
@@angeloreese9299 no I mean when the vehicle is off and the car locked what is the amperage draw?
I have been watching your videos and found them very informative, but have yet to find one on replacing the injectors in a 3.2L Volvo Engine. I have a 2012 Land Rover LR2 with a 3.2L Volvo, Can the injectors be replaced without removing the intake and are there any special tools required?
You can change them without removing the intake and you do not need any special tool.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank You