Excellent advice. I have a 2012 XC70 T6 with polestar with 115k miles since new. I always do 5k mile oil changes and scheduled fluid changes for the coolant and transmission (50k mile intervals). Have only had a couple issues with the car. A coil pack that failed at 100k miles which I'll now change at the 75k interval with the spark plugs. And I had the alternator fail at 95k miles and a blower motor fail at 80k miles. Other than that the car has no oil loss and runs like new. I just did the serpentine belt, pulleys, water pump, PCV, and the vacuum pump last weekend for preventive maintenance. Such a great vehicle and a wonderful road trip wagon!
I can't thank you enough. This video was a godsend , every mechanic I took my 2012 xc60 r design to told me something other than a remedy. You explained how to assess and resolve a loud noise coming from the reed system. Thank you. And yes I love my Volvo its quite a hoot beating new v8 mustangs in my man van
All the "certified mechanics" in my area are too afraid to work on Volvos. As a result, I, as an absolute novice, am having to learn from TH-cam to work on my daughter's 2010 XC60 T6.
They are so easy to work on. I really don't get the apprehension. I have a good independent Volvo shop when things are beyond my skill level. But like you, I do a lot of the work myself thanks to TH-cam.
you should mention the transmission issues in earlier models from 2007 to 2009 (TL80SC-AWF). the shift solenoids in the transmission valve body can fault and engage harshly. these rough engagements are damaging to the clutch plates and with time will get worse. this is also noticed by slipping in 2nd and 3rd gear while under heavy load followed by a "slow down and shift up" warning and limp mode until restarted. this can be repaired by changing the valve body for a later model or a rebuilt aftermarket one. If your like me and went to repair this at 160,000 miles when it was very noticeable. I had to buy a new transmission, due to the amount of ware on the clutchplates. and debris/material in oil... I love my 08 s80 T6 but damn did they mess up these early trans. still runs like a damn champ though!!! Love these P3 videos!!!! keep'em coming boys!!!!
Thanks guys. My new-to-me car is a 2010 XC70 T6 that had lots of maintenance records and one owner (corporate fleet vehicle of some kind) and appears to be very clean and solid with only 102,000 miles when I got it. It’s an Electric Silver T6 with the only other option on top of the T6 package being the Climate Package. This thing is sweet for cruising back and forth to work, or anywhere else, on the country backroads in my state. It’s very quick from a roll and handles MUCH more like a good European car than ANYTHING else with this cargo capacity and off-road ability. It’s gonna definitely need a new exhaust before too long, but there’s stainless ones available for less than an OEM system and they’ll give better power and sound anyway.
Adam, Nate and Jay are MY HEROS!! I have the utmost respect for them. Their knowledge, skills and professionalism is bar none!! Please do more videos on my 2017 VOLVO XC60 with the 2.0 supercharged/turbocharged engine. I’d like to know how to change out an alternator (is it a: 210 amp; 180 amp or a 150amp?). Changing the timing belt and does it have a water pump??? Thank you so much
I'm not on my 8th Volvo and the first one with the SI6 engine. This video was extremely informative for someone who's venturing outside of the white block realm.
Excellent video, one thing to add on the cooling system is the hose to the oil cooler that is prone to fail where it is attached to the block utilizing a plastic piece with an o-ring which weakens over time and may not be noticeable unless it is removed.
Thank you! I've been desperately hoping for a good walk thru on the P3 T6 for months. I have a new water pump in hand but so intimidated by this belt bonanza. Procrastinating by doing everything and anything else - even replacing the heater core and inching along the wiring looking for shorts for hours on end. I'm not ready. Urgh.
Another great Volvo video from FCP Euro. I used their kit and video to change the trans fluid on my 2010 XC60 and it went off without a hitch. New question though: I'm chasing an intermittent P0420 and I think I might have a bad upstream O2 sensor. I would like to further diagnose it, but I can't even see the thing. I've read elsewhere that it requires removal of the air filter and battery tray, but hoping Adam and crew might do up a video explainer. 🙂
Very explanatory video ! Respect for such Great Job ! As a Shop owner I repaired plenty of Volvo 3.2L vehicle. Indeed I came with this problem. Look at 4:27 . So one XC90 with 3.2 came and the owner said that battery did not getting charged. Hmm, checking few thing and I saw the voltage on battery very fluctuate, 14.1V ~11.9V 🙁. Look at Alternator, no unusaul sound and by the way the owner said that Alternator it is brand New , just was replaced few months ago at another shop "specialized in Volvo repairs ???" Anyway - I said to Him push the accelerator pedal all the way to 3k RPM ! Hmm, the Alternator did not rotate with the same speed. Again accelerating up and down - Alternator rotate with own speed. I got it. I said leave the XC for couple days. Remove intake and Alternator and indeed that pulley it is NOT tight. I clean the pulley, bolt and apply a "Lock Tight" gel aloud to dry and install back everything. No more fluctuation on voltage. Everyone happy. XC90 left. Hmm, after 10 days again came, SAME problem. Now I check and found out that Volvo issues a recall regarding that bolt and pulley. I explained to the owner that He may need to solve the problems tru the recalls. So at the end : that bolt and pulley it is one of the weakest link in this particular engine...
Yes, the bolt and pulley are best replaced together because the loose bolt will wear on the pulley hole and it will no longer stay tight, as you experienced.
THANK YOU for this. It makes so much sense. My "urgent charging system service" alert comes on from time to time and I am sure it is that bolt. (been doing it for 40kmi) So no doubt it requires whatever TSB parts they specify. I'll look into it and order to have on hand for when i replace the belt and pullies. Thanks! (do you have a new bolt part #?) thx
Great stuff guys, keep these coming! Are we going to see DIY tutorials on the most common issues like Jay did on the P2 S60’s? Praying the answer is yes!
I have a 2012 XC60 T6 with 221,000 miles. It's been a great car and hasn't had any of these issues. It did burn oil though, but running Liqui Moly engine flush through it and changing the oil with 20% lucas heavy duty stabilizer seems to have solved it.
I fully agree, reliability on these engines are insane. I have a 2011 XC70 with the 3.2 and 330,000kms or 205,000 miles and the engine still runs like a clock. Burns a bit of oil, not sure why, but I make sure to keep it topped off. Besides regular maintenance, I started having to put money into it in 2020 when the vehicle was reaching 10 years old. New fuel pump, blower motor fan, snapped serpentine belt, some suspension work (links, bushings, front struts) new trunk latch assembly. That’s about it! The vehicle has been in 2 front end accidents both totalling 30k in repairs. We won’t get rid of it until catastrophic failure.
Only 200k? Japanese cars can get there with just oil changes. Maybe you should revise your definition of "insane" reliability because these oil burning Volvos are just poorly built
@@supersabrosinho yeah, but Japanese cars rot, they aren’t built nearly as well as Volvos. And just as a side note, the car now has 300,000miles and doesn’t burn oil anymore. You’re also 7 months late, LOL. Saying that Volvo’s are poorly built is like saying old Mazda’s don’t rust, it’s simply not true. Volvos are the safest cars out there. So think a little more before you reply to someone’s comment and look like a fool.
@@jeffgroves4533You forgot to say Volvos are also wizards because yours magically stopped burning oil. Lol. There is a reason you can find P3 Volvos for under 2k... Hint: they're junk Also, it's never too late to tell you how junky your car is 😆
@@supersabrosinho it stopped burning oil because we started using different oil along with additives. Reading your comments make me laugh out loud😂 enjoy your tin can Japanese car❤️
Thanks for this interesting video! Is it possible to install the B6324S5 engine with 243 HP from model year 2011 in my 2007 XC90 with 238 HP, or are there problems with other connections, the engine wiring harness, other engine attachments, etc.? Also, would it be possible to use the B6324S5 from a 2012 XC60 for the XC90? Best regards from Germany!
Thank you FCP for another good DIY video. I've done the water pump, but now have alternator issues. I'm interested in seeing how to get that coupler pulley out and the decoupler hub "belt". Basically both sides of the READ drive. Not sure if there are enough of these engines out there to warrant this, but I have two of these engines in an S80 and XC60. Thx again!
Could you please please do a video showing how to replace the the bulbs on the exterior door handles for the Mercedes c class w205? Theres not much online for it and dealerships charge around £600 for labour for a £20 bulb change....as it includes removing the door panel on the inside. Thanks!
My 2009 Xc60 T6 turbo is having coolant leaking on the thermostat gasket and the coolant is dripping right on to the knock sensor and its connector which causes the engine to stall at idle. Is this a common issue?
I have a 2015 XC60 RDesign. Was surprised to learn that the alternator failed at 60K along with the alternator clutch? I had never previously heard of an alternator clutch. I’d like to know if there are any other unusual components on the Polestar Rdesign motor.
I have the 3.2 in my 2012 XC60. Every now and then I get the Charging System Error message but it eventually goes away within a day. Even with this message on the car drives and operates just fine. I’ve had the battery and alternator checked and both seem fine. Could this be a symptom of the decoupler bolt on the alternator side of the reed drive coming loose?
i have a problem with my s60 t6 Rdesign 2013 the radiator fan doesnt Work properly!! When the car is cold the fan works good but then when the engine is hot dosnt work!! I change the fan module but the problem persist. I test the fan with the scanner and works good. I dont know whats happend
Lol, Ive had 3 ignition coils explode, ive had the PS pully go out, ive got a rattle at the alternator/read unit, ive replaced the plugs, and I have an idle roll that I believe is caused by a bad PCV diaphragm. Pretty much everything yall covered except for the pistons and cooling system went bad. Other things id like to note that are problems are the vacuum pump seals tend to start leaking at 80k-120k miles (easily repaired), the engine mounts and torque rods tend to fall apart and tear, causing awful, awful noises in the cabin, and if youre feeling a stuttering, hesitation, and noises coming from your pedals, its most likely a wheel speed sensor. Very soon I need to take a look at my alternator and determine what repair is needed.
Your alternator is likely just the pulley bolt which gets loose and doesn't spin the alt and you get a ¡service! alert. Supposedly needs a New bolt from the wear of it being tightened&loosened all the time. When i do mine i am going to mash a couple of threads up near the head so it locks in for real 👍-
@@georgehofgren6123 so I actually checked mine out, and my alternator bolt is tight. That rattle I've been hearing actually sounds closer to the turbo. (Definitely loudest from the passenger side wheel well) I've taken the intake pipe off and checked the play of the shaft, and it's smooth as butter. The rattle is hard to make happen while parked, and generally takes ~10 mins of driving to start up. In park, goes away. In drive, it's there sometimes. I can make it happen by turning the wheels and putting load on the motor
@@gombie72 HI there... sorry to get back so late on this... I had maybe the same rattle problem. It was most noticeable starting out and at low speed. I did some research and learned it was caused by Low Power Steering fluid (i can't remember why). I put in fluid and haven't had the vibration since 👍. If you still have this rattle, check your PS reservoir and fill If needed. Be sure to use the right PS fluid, which was something i'd never heard of, but they did have behind the counter @ Advance Auto ~ ✌️ ☮️
@@georgehofgren6123 no worries! Still got the car. Still runs fine. Still has the issue. I've replaced all the fluids already, so PS pump is rulled out. Probably a separate issue. Thanks anyways!
Nice video. What about transmission fluid change? My xc60 t6 is at 120000km and I'm using it for towing caravan. Absolutely love this car and want to keep it for ever.
Thanks for this very informative video. I have an 08 xc90 fwd with the na 3.2 engine and love it. I've had it for 2 years and only had to do basic maintenance. I'm now up around 180k miles and it still drives so nicely. I just have a clunk noise over bumps on passenger side and can't figure out what it is. I've replaced the whole front end suspension except for the stabilizer bar bushings
They have a whole video on P3 suspensions... in it he says that a clunk at a front wheel is caused by a bad sway bar link on that side (thin bar with ball joints at both ends). I'm hoping that's the case w/mine for an easy fix -
@@georgehofgren6123 unfortunately for me that's not my problem. I've replaced mine with 2 different sets. I wish that was my problem because those are cheap and easy to replace
Hello, im looking to buy v70 t6 , 120k miles, 2008years. Whit adaptive suspension. Its a good car or i have to look little bit new. Its have a good Volvo but they are diesel 2,4 d5. But in England they have ULEZ and i have to looked diesel from 2016 and ect. And petrol from 2008. What is your opinion ?
I definitely have the oil consumption issue on my T6, although adding a quart or two every few thousand miles for now is cheap enough to live with. I'm surprised the top motor mount wasnt brought up as a common maintenance item.
Mine burned through oil for a while, then it stopped. I had to replace the PVC seal, and replaced most of the belts, but it's still going strong at 175k
Great video. I own 2 S80’s 3.0 T6 (2012 &2015.5). My 2012 (176,000 miles) has a power steering leak that no one can find. No leakage from the reservoir or the power steering rack. Lines all check good as well. A volvo mechanic (30+ years) is baffled because there is power steering fluid on the opposite side of the car in the wiring harness that runs from the fuse box (left side near battery on the other side of car) along the lower chassis. There is no power steering components there. I looked myself while the car was on a lift. Both wheel well covers removed and the under carriage cover. Definitely a leak in the power steering because I have to add a few ounces a week to the reservoir. No evidence in the steering rack or lines. Any ideas where the leak is coming from. No leak drops on the ground to help isolate the location. Is there any power steering components on the left side of the car that would cause this leak to show up on the opposite side of the reservoir. The lines from the pump and reservoir pretty much reside on the right side. The odd thing is that the fluid inside the wiring bundle is where the power steering fluid is and it runs up to almost the fuse box. No one spilled anything or incorrectly put fluid in there. Is there some sort of vacuum hose or line that runs in the wiring bundle. Your expertise would be greatly appreciated. Also, the 2012 does use motor oil and the 2015.5 does not.
Hi Ken - I may be able to help, because although very rare, i have encountered something like what you're describing. I work as a engineer for a transmission and engine control solenoid manufacturer, and we have on a very few occasions encountered similar issues on customer vehicles. The issue presents itself as an oil leak no where near the source of the oil. Hot (and therefore very thin oil) travels up wires, but doesn't seem to drip in route to its new 'destination,' sometimes a few feet away from the source. In the case of the rare instances we have seen, the issue was an electronic component where the oil seeped into the copper coil, and a seal inside the connector was missing, so the hot oil travelled through the connector, wetted the wire attached to the connector, and traveled to another side of the engine and presented itself as leak from the wrong side of the engine. The surface tension could even carry the oil to a higher point in the engine bay in some instances. The solution at my company was to insure proper sealing of the inside of the connector. I don't know the Volvo models too well (I watched this video to learn about the land rover LR2 engine), but if your power steering assembly has any sensors on it, or wires near it that may be making contact, i would check that the wires aren't wet with any fluid carrying it away to a new place inside your car. Best of luck!
@@jamesday2441 Thank you so much for the insight and the time you took to answer the question. I will pass this info off to my mechanic and check myself. I will let you know when I get an answer. Thanks again, Ken D.
@@jamesday2441 Hi James. Just a follow up with the leaking power steering fluid. You were 100% correct with your assessment. The fluid was traveling from the power steering pump via the electrical connector on the pump itself. The traveling fluid traveled to the other side of the car in the wire bundle the connects to the fuse box on the other side of the car. The mechanic never saw this in his 30 years fixing Volvo’s. I was able to source a good used pump and install it. The seal had to have gone bad on the pump connector housing itself. After the mechanic removed the pump and let it sit on his workbench, the connector on the pump actually filled with fluid on the housing of the connector itself. He cleaned the wire bundles with electrical connector spray and put new loom around the wire bundle. Thanks again for your time to respond to me and help rectify this issue. Great job. FCP Euro customer for life.😀
About to hit 100k on my 2012 s60 T6, curious what you've found the lifespan of the actual turbocharger to be, assuming of course that it's been well cared for
I was a Volvo dealer technician (master certified) for 8 years before switching brands. In my experience, I never saw a turbocharger failure on a regularly maintained car. In fact, in those years (2 different dealerships) I probably only ever saw no more than 5 turbocharger replacements throughout the whole shop. I personally only ever had to replace one turbo and that was on a poorly maintained 5 cylinder engine. FWIW, I have a 2007 S40 T5 running strong with almost 150k miles on it.
If you keep up with maintenance and change your oil regularly, your turbocharger should last at least another 100k+ miles! We have not seen very many turbocharger failures on the T6 engine.
Hola amigo, en el caso del motor 3.2L AWD, cuántos litros de aceite debe llevar? el fabricante recomienda 5w-30, cuando tiene más de 100 mil millas, es recomendable poner un 5w-40? Saludos.
you can use 5w-40, but make sure to check the centistokes(cSt) of the oil that you use. 30weight is min 9.3cSt and max 12.5 cSt. 40 weight is min 12.5cSt to max 16.3 cSt. I would aim to use a 40weight around the low end of 12.5, rather than a thicker oil.
Engine isn't backwards. The belts are on the back of the engine. Reason this is important? For diagnostics, knowing where cylinder 1 is becomes important. Where's Jay Van Gordon? He actually knew stuff about Volvos.
Definitely not the 4 cylinder Ford engines with the stupid double clutch transmission. In the case of petrol engines, i think the 5-cylinder 2.5 and the 6-cylinder 3.0/3.2 are about as robust, although there are significantly more vehicles with the 5-cylinder. The most robust of all engines in the p3 vehicles is probably the 5-cylinder diesel D5244T.
I have 2007 xc90 3.2 engine that rattle like crazy with blinking check engine. I have change all the ignition coil and brand new spark plug but problem still persists. I have check all cylinders comression test shows all above 200psi. Can you help me what might could be the problem. Btw, vehicule has 200658km. Thank you in advance.
I have a 2012 volvo s60 t6. It started fine and runs upto temp with no issue. As soon as it gets warm I get a misfire n#2 cylinder. I just found my pcv diaphragm was bad by leaking air threw it and replaced. Car was fine for 4 days and today started misfiring again....what could this be? I replaced coils and plugs about 25k ago with volvo plugs. Please help and desperate to get it fixed! ❤my volvo
Hi thanks for the informative video. I have a 2011 volvo with a t-6 120,000 miles runs very good. But when I try to start it, cranks to long without firing before finally starting. What do you think?
I've seen similar issues in other makes where the check valve was leaking. What I do to diagnose this is to cycle from off to run several times to build fuel pressure before hitting start. Obviously, this won't work if yours is "push to start".
I’m thinking about buying a Volvo S60 t-6 R design with 118,000 miles for 11,900. Does anyone think this is a good price for this type of car? Also, is there anything that I should ask the dealer before buying?
Scratching my head on this. 2008 S80 T6 Frequently, when I first start driving, during acceleration, usually at about 3000 RPM, I start getting some hesitation and cutting out while accelerating. At idle, engine idles smoothly. No check engine lights. If I turn the car off and start it right back up. It generally runs almost perfect. I have just recently replaced spark plugs, and coil packs, PCV/oil trap (oem) new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor but still having the same issue. Any insight on this?
Do you check transmission oil? I have 09 s80, I had intermittent hesitation during acceleration even slow down (normal without braking). I changed transmission oil twice this summer. Now feels better. The first oil was dark black with some metal pieces. The 2nd was kind of reddish. Maybe I will change it again next summer
@@erindaley3925 yes, knock sensor. Had a bad connector and was loosing signal. It is the one behind the oil cooler (pain to get to) so i spliced it in to the other knock sensor and zero issues going on 6 months now
Mine had 167k when I bought it it now has 178k km and it's generally running well still it just needs the serpentine belt changed and also some spark plugs it's quite reliable overall.
@@fcpeuro will a failure of the serpentine belt cause any valve damage? what are some imperative services on a used si6 i shouldnt overlook? just changed a torn pcv yesterday :D and does the si6 have chain guides or anything that go bad?
I believe the chain does have synthetic guides. I've read that there isn't noticeable wear until after 150kmi. I'm at 210kmi and am considering doing the timing chain when i do the serpentine belt and pullies (and alternator bolt)-
I have a 2012 s60 t6 and found bad pcv valve. Replaced and now misfiring when upto temp. Plugs and coils replaced 25k ago. All genuine volvo parts. It seems to misfire when upto temp and then only. Cold starts are fine. Any help would be great! 2012 s60 t6 140k. Randon misfires #2 at temp!!
My 2011 S60 T6 turbo is overheating after just a few minutes of driving and it's breaking my heart! Without also breaking the bank is there a way to diagnose whether it's my radiator or water pump?
Hi Sobrid, the best thing to do would be to inspect the vehicle as best as possible, pull off the timing cover and see if you are losing coolant anywhere. With a good pump, coolant will circulate throughout the system and can be seen flowing back into the expansion tank. A bad thermostat can also cause potential overheating if the unit is stuck closed. Check for any intermix between coolant and oil, if you see some, a compression test or leak-down test is in order.
I assume you got this fixed by now? I had overheating issues with mine and it turned out to be the ridiculously-expensive radiator fan module that had failed and needed to be replaced. That was over a grand.
@@SuperJ213 mine turned out to be the water pump. They switched out the thermostat too and I had a leak in the vacuum hose so my turbo was taking extra long to spool up and I had like no torque. It's all good now, but yeah it costed like $1,200. This was a hard lesson in learning that cars may depreciate in value, but parts and service definitely does not!
I have a non turbo 3.2 , 2011 xc 60 Volvo with 200400 miles on it. I change oil around 6500 and have changed flame trap pcv. It’s due for another oil change soon. I notice a sound of what sounds like a pulley.
Be careful with the rear gear accessories drive if it makes noise and you don't replace the bearings or fix it right or don't do oil changes on time the bushing that is pressed in the engine block will wear out and the only way to fix it will be a new engine.
Are we not gonna talk about the mouse delivered nuts stored on top of the engine? My little garage friends are in the habit of depositing cat food or birdseed on top of my XC 70 engine.
Old school here, but what's more expensive, a quart of oil every few weeks, or a major engine repair? Check the oil every thousand miles and add as needed. Unless you are leaking oil on a driveway, I'd not tear into it until you were burning a LOT more than that.
@@bobmazzi7435 I switched to a high mileage oil and I’m getting 6000 miles now out of it beforr I have to add more. I agree with you. After I posted this a year ago, it started to burn a quart every 3000 miles so this is a big bonus . The car 12 years old and has 125,000 miles on it. I keep a quart behind the second seat. I’ve needed it every once in a while. Because I do long trips. This car isn’t worth tearing into. It’s worth a couple of grand on a good day.
Ya naw, this definitely sounds like a uniquely nightmarish maintenance experience. All the fussiness of a German engine with some Swedish twisting too. Easy to overlook something minor that you should have done "while in there" that then leads to going back again. And again.
Changed all parts mentioned on the video with original Volvo parts and my engine has still an air leak hence misfiring frequently especially when hot and so far 3 different garages were not able to trace it....I will NEVER buy a Volvo again in my life...
@@ghostwrench2292 I am blaming the car first of all, cause the car started having issues when the mileage was just over 60k. (1 owner, no accidents, parked in underground parking, very meticulous owner)...and certainly equally responsible are the mechanics
Bring back the old slant six cylinder engines. Jeeps 4.0. Volvo 3.2 burns oil for you climate changes fanatics. To much 💩 to break on new engines. Engineers suck they make it very hard to get at changing parts. Rubber belts instead of chains they suck to. TH-cam changing a simple cabin filter in a Volvo. My Honda Ridgeline is five minutes. Drop the glove snap out the filter cover change the filter snap the cover back on pop the glove compartment on done.
I have 2007 xc90 3.2 engine that rattle like crazy with blinking check engine. I have change all the ignition coil and brand new spark plug but problem still persists. I have check all cylinders comression test shows all above 200psi. Can you help me what might could be the problem. Btw, vehicule has 200658km. Thank you in advance.
![เจ้าผู้เดียว - ดิด คิตตี้ [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q0NLCYKBOTo/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent advice. I have a 2012 XC70 T6 with polestar with 115k miles since new. I always do 5k mile oil changes and scheduled fluid changes for the coolant and transmission (50k mile intervals). Have only had a couple issues with the car. A coil pack that failed at 100k miles which I'll now change at the 75k interval with the spark plugs. And I had the alternator fail at 95k miles and a blower motor fail at 80k miles. Other than that the car has no oil loss and runs like new. I just did the serpentine belt, pulleys, water pump, PCV, and the vacuum pump last weekend for preventive maintenance. Such a great vehicle and a wonderful road trip wagon!
Your videos on Volvo engines are always well informant & accurate.
I can't thank you enough. This video was a godsend , every mechanic I took my 2012 xc60 r design to told me something other than a remedy. You explained how to assess and resolve a loud noise coming from the reed system. Thank you. And yes I love my Volvo its quite a hoot beating new v8 mustangs in my man van
All the "certified mechanics" in my area are too afraid to work on Volvos. As a result, I, as an absolute novice, am having to learn from TH-cam to work on my daughter's 2010 XC60 T6.
Please post videos. I also have that Volvo
Your kid is well raised. No brat drives a T6 💪
Swedespeed is a great forum
They are so easy to work on. I really don't get the apprehension. I have a good independent Volvo shop when things are beyond my skill level. But like you, I do a lot of the work myself thanks to TH-cam.
She’s lucky, the t6 is twin turbo awd. She’s gonna wreck it most likely
you should mention the transmission issues in earlier models from 2007 to 2009 (TL80SC-AWF). the shift solenoids in the transmission valve body can fault and engage harshly. these rough engagements are damaging to the clutch plates and with time will get worse. this is also noticed by slipping in 2nd and 3rd gear while under heavy load followed by a "slow down and shift up" warning and limp mode until restarted. this can be repaired by changing the valve body for a later model or a rebuilt aftermarket one. If your like me and went to repair this at 160,000 miles when it was very noticeable. I had to buy a new transmission, due to the amount of ware on the clutchplates. and debris/material in oil...
I love my 08 s80 T6 but damn did they mess up these early trans. still runs like a damn champ though!!!
Love these P3 videos!!!! keep'em coming boys!!!!
Really enjoying the recent P3 videos.
Glad to hear it, Erin!
Great video! more P3 is always welcomed
Thanks guys. My new-to-me car is a 2010 XC70 T6 that had lots of maintenance records and one owner (corporate fleet vehicle of some kind) and appears to be very clean and solid with only 102,000 miles when I got it. It’s an Electric Silver T6 with the only other option on top of the T6 package being the Climate Package.
This thing is sweet for cruising back and forth to work, or anywhere else, on the country backroads in my state. It’s very quick from a roll and handles MUCH more like a good European car than ANYTHING else with this cargo capacity and off-road ability.
It’s gonna definitely need a new exhaust before too long, but there’s stainless ones available for less than an OEM system and they’ll give better power and sound anyway.
Excellent video! Love the cylinder 2-3 peanut warmer demo at 2:51. 🥜🐿👍
Still love you @FCPEuro for showing P3 love.
Adam, Nate and Jay are MY HEROS!! I have the utmost respect for them. Their knowledge, skills and professionalism is bar none!! Please do more videos on my 2017 VOLVO XC60 with the 2.0 supercharged/turbocharged engine. I’d like to know how to change out an alternator (is it a: 210 amp; 180 amp or a 150amp?). Changing the timing belt and does it have a water pump??? Thank you so much
Thanks for the great video. Love the T6 engine. So smooth.
You're welcome! Can't beat the smoothness of an inline 6 cylinder!
It's fantastic up at 70-80mph... so smooth it feels like you're flying 🛩
i love these P3 videos, good job
Thanks, we love them too!
I'm not on my 8th Volvo and the first one with the SI6 engine. This video was extremely informative for someone who's venturing outside of the white block realm.
Glad you find it informative, Eric! It's definitely a different animal when compared to the white blocks.
Thanks for this video, I'm about to buy a XC60 T6 with 240000 kms in place of my fellow D3, I will check maintenance papers accurately.
Love my 2015 XC-70 T6... Even better with that Polestar software upgrade
Excellent video 👍
Excellent knowledge, very informative, thanks
Most informative video on this engine. Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
As expected, A1 stuff
Outstanding!
Excellent video, one thing to add on the cooling system is the hose to the oil cooler that is prone to fail where it is attached to the block utilizing a plastic piece with an o-ring which weakens over time and may not be noticeable unless it is removed.
Thanks for the insight on the oil cooler hose, Kent!
Great video, Thank You!
Wow this is gold, wish you could work on my Volvos
Well done!
Thank you! I've been desperately hoping for a good walk thru on the P3 T6 for months. I have a new water pump in hand but so intimidated by this belt bonanza. Procrastinating by doing everything and anything else - even replacing the heater core and inching along the wiring looking for shorts for hours on end. I'm not ready. Urgh.
Great video!
Thanks!
Another great Volvo video from FCP Euro. I used their kit and video to change the trans fluid on my 2010 XC60 and it went off without a hitch. New question though: I'm chasing an intermittent P0420 and I think I might have a bad upstream O2 sensor. I would like to further diagnose it, but I can't even see the thing. I've read elsewhere that it requires removal of the air filter and battery tray, but hoping Adam and crew might do up a video explainer. 🙂
thank you for informative video
very educative .Thank you regards
Glad you liked it!
Thanks lads
Great video, thank you, always very clear explanation. Do you have some videos about this engine turbos?. Regards
Very explanatory video !
Respect for such Great Job !
As a Shop owner I repaired plenty of Volvo 3.2L vehicle.
Indeed I came with this problem. Look at 4:27 . So one XC90 with 3.2 came and the owner said that battery did not getting charged.
Hmm, checking few thing and I saw the voltage on battery very fluctuate, 14.1V ~11.9V 🙁. Look at Alternator, no unusaul sound and by the way the owner said that Alternator it is brand New , just was replaced few months ago at another shop "specialized in Volvo repairs ???"
Anyway - I said to Him push the accelerator pedal all the way to 3k RPM !
Hmm, the Alternator did not rotate with the same speed. Again accelerating up and down - Alternator rotate with own speed. I got it.
I said leave the XC for couple days.
Remove intake and Alternator and indeed that pulley it is NOT tight.
I clean the pulley, bolt and apply a "Lock Tight" gel aloud to dry and install back everything. No more fluctuation on voltage. Everyone happy. XC90 left.
Hmm, after 10 days again came, SAME problem.
Now I check and found out that Volvo issues a recall regarding that bolt and pulley. I explained to the owner that He may need to solve the problems tru the recalls.
So at the end : that bolt and pulley it is one of the weakest link in this particular engine...
Yes, the bolt and pulley are best replaced together because the loose bolt will wear on the pulley hole and it will no longer stay tight, as you experienced.
THANK YOU for this. It makes so much sense. My "urgent charging system service" alert comes on from time to time and I am sure it is that bolt. (been doing it for 40kmi) So no doubt it requires whatever TSB parts they specify. I'll look into it and order to have on hand for when i replace the belt and pullies. Thanks! (do you have a new bolt part #?) thx
loved it!!!!1
A lot of info 👍
Great stuff guys, keep these coming! Are we going to see DIY tutorials on the most common issues like Jay did on the P2 S60’s? Praying the answer is yes!
We definitely have some P3 DIY videos on the way!
I have a 2012 XC60 T6 with 221,000 miles. It's been a great car and hasn't had any of these issues. It did burn oil though, but running Liqui Moly engine flush through it and changing the oil with 20% lucas heavy duty stabilizer seems to have solved it.
Glad to hear those LIQUI MOLY additives are working!
Will there be a video for the 2.5L I5? 🙏🏻
I had to take off my intake manifold on the 3.2 xc90 today and notice oil residue in all the ports. Is this normal?
I fully agree, reliability on these engines are insane. I have a 2011 XC70 with the 3.2 and 330,000kms or 205,000 miles and the engine still runs like a clock. Burns a bit of oil, not sure why, but I make sure to keep it topped off.
Besides regular maintenance, I started having to put money into it in 2020 when the vehicle was reaching 10 years old. New fuel pump, blower motor fan, snapped serpentine belt, some suspension work (links, bushings, front struts) new trunk latch assembly. That’s about it! The vehicle has been in 2 front end accidents both totalling 30k in repairs.
We won’t get rid of it until catastrophic failure.
Only 200k? Japanese cars can get there with just oil changes. Maybe you should revise your definition of "insane" reliability because these oil burning Volvos are just poorly built
@@supersabrosinho yeah, but Japanese cars rot, they aren’t built nearly as well as Volvos. And just as a side note, the car now has 300,000miles and doesn’t burn oil anymore. You’re also 7 months late, LOL. Saying that Volvo’s are poorly built is like saying old Mazda’s don’t rust, it’s simply not true. Volvos are the safest cars out there. So think a little more before you reply to someone’s comment and look like a fool.
@@jeffgroves4533You forgot to say Volvos are also wizards because yours magically stopped burning oil. Lol. There is a reason you can find P3 Volvos for under 2k... Hint: they're junk
Also, it's never too late to tell you how junky your car is 😆
@@supersabrosinho it stopped burning oil because we started using different oil along with additives. Reading your comments make me laugh out loud😂 enjoy your tin can Japanese car❤️
@@supersabrosinho you’re acting like Japanese cars don’t have their problems too? Like Jesus Christ, typical Japanese car fanboy😆🥢🥢
Thanks for this interesting video! Is it possible to install the B6324S5 engine with 243 HP from model year 2011 in my 2007 XC90 with 238 HP, or are there problems with other connections, the engine wiring harness, other engine attachments, etc.?
Also, would it be possible to use the B6324S5 from a 2012 XC60 for the XC90? Best regards from Germany!
@fcpEuro
Would be cool if 2011-2014 P3 2.5 Chassis Volvo had some love.
Thank you FCP for another good DIY video. I've done the water pump, but now have alternator issues. I'm interested in seeing how to get that coupler pulley out and the decoupler hub "belt". Basically both sides of the READ drive. Not sure if there are enough of these engines out there to warrant this, but I have two of these engines in an S80 and XC60. Thx again!
Luckily the alternator and decoupler belt are very easy to replace once the intake manifold has been taken out of the way
@@willmill409 Agreed. Once I got it apart it made a lot of sense. It was not a hard job. I ended up doing the same thing to my 2013 XC60.
Could you please please do a video showing how to replace the the bulbs on the exterior door handles for the Mercedes c class w205?
Theres not much online for it and dealerships charge around £600 for labour for a £20 bulb change....as it includes removing the door panel on the inside.
Thanks!
My 2009 Xc60 T6 turbo is having coolant leaking on the thermostat gasket and the coolant is dripping right on to the knock sensor and its connector which causes the engine to stall at idle. Is this a common issue?
Great content on the P3 Volvos. My V60 T5 has a 2.5l 5 cylinder engine. Will there be a similar video for this engine?
i have a 2015 s80 t6 awd 3.0 that makes a click/knock noise every 10 to 15 seconds during startup & when I turn it off what it that from?
I have a 2015 XC60 RDesign. Was surprised to learn that the alternator failed at 60K along with the alternator clutch? I had never previously heard of an alternator clutch. I’d like to know if there are any other unusual components on the Polestar Rdesign motor.
I have the 3.2 in my 2012 XC60. Every now and then I get the Charging System Error message but it eventually goes away within a day. Even with this message on the car drives and operates just fine. I’ve had the battery and alternator checked and both seem fine. Could this be a symptom of the decoupler bolt on the alternator side of the reed drive coming loose?
good
Thanks for sharing, hey where’s Kyle at haven’t seen him for a bit
i have a problem with my s60 t6 Rdesign 2013 the radiator fan doesnt Work properly!! When the car is cold the fan works good but then when the engine is hot dosnt work!! I change the fan module but the problem persist. I test the fan with the scanner and works good. I dont know whats happend
Lol, Ive had 3 ignition coils explode, ive had the PS pully go out, ive got a rattle at the alternator/read unit, ive replaced the plugs, and I have an idle roll that I believe is caused by a bad PCV diaphragm. Pretty much everything yall covered except for the pistons and cooling system went bad. Other things id like to note that are problems are the vacuum pump seals tend to start leaking at 80k-120k miles (easily repaired), the engine mounts and torque rods tend to fall apart and tear, causing awful, awful noises in the cabin, and if youre feeling a stuttering, hesitation, and noises coming from your pedals, its most likely a wheel speed sensor. Very soon I need to take a look at my alternator and determine what repair is needed.
Your alternator is likely just the pulley bolt which gets loose and doesn't spin the alt and you get a ¡service! alert. Supposedly needs a New bolt from the wear of it being tightened&loosened all the time. When i do mine i am going to mash a couple of threads up near the head so it locks in for real 👍-
Also, I bought my '10 XC70 @ 170kmi and haven't had Any problems (but the service alerts) in now 40k miles. Seriously reliable at least for me : )
@@georgehofgren6123 so I actually checked mine out, and my alternator bolt is tight. That rattle I've been hearing actually sounds closer to the turbo. (Definitely loudest from the passenger side wheel well) I've taken the intake pipe off and checked the play of the shaft, and it's smooth as butter. The rattle is hard to make happen while parked, and generally takes ~10 mins of driving to start up. In park, goes away. In drive, it's there sometimes. I can make it happen by turning the wheels and putting load on the motor
@@gombie72 HI there... sorry to get back so late on this... I had maybe the same rattle problem. It was most noticeable starting out and at low speed. I did some research and learned it was caused by Low Power Steering fluid (i can't remember why). I put in fluid and haven't had the vibration since 👍. If you still have this rattle, check your PS reservoir and fill If needed. Be sure to use the right PS fluid, which was something i'd never heard of, but they did have behind the counter @ Advance Auto ~ ✌️ ☮️
@@georgehofgren6123 no worries! Still got the car. Still runs fine. Still has the issue. I've replaced all the fluids already, so PS pump is rulled out. Probably a separate issue. Thanks anyways!
Hi, my name is Daniel. I have a 2011 Volvo S80. and I have some grinding noise coming by the belt What is the problem?
Nice video.
What about transmission fluid change? My xc60 t6 is at 120000km and I'm using it for towing caravan. Absolutely love this car and want to keep it for ever.
If you tow, get it changed soon. That's adding stress, and 75000 miles is about where you change them in the US
Thanks for this very informative video. I have an 08 xc90 fwd with the na 3.2 engine and love it. I've had it for 2 years and only had to do basic maintenance. I'm now up around 180k miles and it still drives so nicely. I just have a clunk noise over bumps on passenger side and can't figure out what it is. I've replaced the whole front end suspension except for the stabilizer bar bushings
They have a whole video on P3 suspensions... in it he says that a clunk at a front wheel is caused by a bad sway bar link on that side (thin bar with ball joints at both ends). I'm hoping that's the case w/mine for an easy fix -
@@georgehofgren6123 unfortunately for me that's not my problem. I've replaced mine with 2 different sets. I wish that was my problem because those are cheap and easy to replace
How about engine mounts?
Have you checked sway bar bushings?
@@willmill409what was causing it?
I dont know if I heard it right, but the READ unit cannot be replaced alone. It has to be replaced with the engine. They are not interchangeable
This engine and the revised 5 cylinder were to allow better turn radius with wider tires. The P2 Rs proved how much that needed to be fixed....
I think a school bus has a tighter turning radius than a P2 R.....😂
Hello, im looking to buy v70 t6 , 120k miles, 2008years. Whit adaptive suspension. Its a good car or i have to look little bit new.
Its have a good Volvo but they are diesel 2,4 d5. But in England they have ULEZ and i have to looked diesel from 2016 and ect. And petrol from 2008. What is your opinion ?
I’ve been having a rattling issue at around 1500 ish rpm with a 2015 xc60 t6 and cannot figure out what it is, anyone got any suggestions?
I definitely have the oil consumption issue on my T6, although adding a quart or two every few thousand miles for now is cheap enough to live with. I'm surprised the top motor mount wasnt brought up as a common maintenance item.
Mine burned through oil for a while, then it stopped. I had to replace the PVC seal, and replaced most of the belts, but it's still going strong at 175k
@@turkovich530what milage you replace timing belt.
@@thayalansuntharalingam about 120k
@@turkovich530 thanks factory recommend interval 150k on newer 2015 plus 2.0t is 150k.
@@thayalansuntharalingam im assuming that's a chain and not a belt?
Great video. I own 2 S80’s 3.0 T6 (2012 &2015.5). My 2012 (176,000 miles) has a power steering leak that no one can find. No leakage from the reservoir or the power steering rack. Lines all check good as well. A volvo mechanic (30+ years) is baffled because there is power steering fluid on the opposite side of the car in the wiring harness that runs from the fuse box (left side near battery on the other side of car) along the lower chassis. There is no power steering components there. I looked myself while the car was on a lift. Both wheel well covers removed and the under carriage cover. Definitely a leak in the power steering because I have to add a few ounces a week to the reservoir. No evidence in the steering rack or lines. Any ideas where the leak is coming from. No leak drops on the ground to help isolate the location. Is there any power steering components on the left side of the car that would cause this leak to show up on the opposite side of the reservoir. The lines from the pump and reservoir pretty much reside on the right side. The odd thing is that the fluid inside the wiring bundle is where the power steering fluid is and it runs up to almost the fuse box. No one spilled anything or incorrectly put fluid in there. Is there some sort of vacuum hose or line that runs in the wiring bundle. Your expertise would be greatly appreciated.
Also, the 2012 does use motor oil and the 2015.5 does not.
Hi Ken - I may be able to help, because although very rare, i have encountered something like what you're describing. I work as a engineer for a transmission and engine control solenoid manufacturer, and we have on a very few occasions encountered similar issues on customer vehicles. The issue presents itself as an oil leak no where near the source of the oil. Hot (and therefore very thin oil) travels up wires, but doesn't seem to drip in route to its new 'destination,' sometimes a few feet away from the source. In the case of the rare instances we have seen, the issue was an electronic component where the oil seeped into the copper coil, and a seal inside the connector was missing, so the hot oil travelled through the connector, wetted the wire attached to the connector, and traveled to another side of the engine and presented itself as leak from the wrong side of the engine. The surface tension could even carry the oil to a higher point in the engine bay in some instances. The solution at my company was to insure proper sealing of the inside of the connector. I don't know the Volvo models too well (I watched this video to learn about the land rover LR2 engine), but if your power steering assembly has any sensors on it, or wires near it that may be making contact, i would check that the wires aren't wet with any fluid carrying it away to a new place inside your car. Best of luck!
@@jamesday2441 Thank you so much for the insight and the time you took to answer the question. I will pass this info off to my mechanic and check myself. I will let you know when I get an answer.
Thanks again,
Ken D.
@@jamesday2441 Hi James. Just a follow up with the leaking power steering fluid. You were 100% correct with your assessment. The fluid was traveling from the power steering pump via the electrical connector on the pump itself. The traveling fluid traveled to the other side of the car in the wire bundle the connects to the fuse box on the other side of the car. The mechanic never saw this in his 30 years fixing Volvo’s. I was able to source a good used pump and install it. The seal had to have gone bad on the pump connector housing itself. After the mechanic removed the pump and let it sit on his workbench, the connector on the pump actually filled with fluid on the housing of the connector itself. He cleaned the wire bundles with electrical connector spray and put new loom around the wire bundle. Thanks again for your time to respond to me and help rectify this issue. Great job. FCP Euro customer for life.😀
Good tips. Wonder what's the highest mileage T6 motor you guys have seen
Mine 09 s80 t6 is 199k miles right now
Great tips! Just did all fluids, serp belt, and all pulleys with FCP Euro parts!
Seen a few with 400k plus miles for sale. Buddy has 200k on his and doesn't burn oil.
Dang all these numbers making my 08 s80 t6 with 105k on it sound new lol
Around 300 miles with zero issues
About to hit 100k on my 2012 s60 T6, curious what you've found the lifespan of the actual turbocharger to be, assuming of course that it's been well cared for
I was a Volvo dealer technician (master certified) for 8 years before switching brands. In my experience, I never saw a turbocharger failure on a regularly maintained car. In fact, in those years (2 different dealerships) I probably only ever saw no more than 5 turbocharger replacements throughout the whole shop. I personally only ever had to replace one turbo and that was on a poorly maintained 5 cylinder engine. FWIW, I have a 2007 S40 T5 running strong with almost 150k miles on it.
If you keep up with maintenance and change your oil regularly, your turbocharger should last at least another 100k+ miles! We have not seen very many turbocharger failures on the T6 engine.
I currently have 260 000 miles on my 2008 V70 T6 with the same turbo as the day it left the factory. Buttery smooth machine
Hola amigo, en el caso del motor 3.2L AWD, cuántos litros de aceite debe llevar? el fabricante recomienda 5w-30, cuando tiene más de 100 mil millas, es recomendable poner un 5w-40? Saludos.
you can use 5w-40, but make sure to check the centistokes(cSt) of the oil that you use. 30weight is min 9.3cSt and max 12.5 cSt. 40 weight is min 12.5cSt to max 16.3 cSt. I would aim to use a 40weight around the low end of 12.5, rather than a thicker oil.
Engine isn't backwards. The belts are on the back of the engine. Reason this is important? For diagnostics, knowing where cylinder 1 is becomes important. Where's Jay Van Gordon? He actually knew stuff about Volvos.
I’m late but which is the most reliable engine the drive e 2.0? The 2.5 t5 or the 3.0 t6?
Definitely not the 4 cylinder Ford engines with the stupid double clutch transmission. In the case of petrol engines, i think the 5-cylinder 2.5 and the 6-cylinder 3.0/3.2 are about as robust, although there are significantly more vehicles with the 5-cylinder. The most robust of all engines in the p3 vehicles is probably the 5-cylinder diesel D5244T.
My t6 2001 s80 head gasket problem🤦🏻♂️ i want to open repair it but i don’t know instructions to make marking🤦🏻♂️ just park🤦🏻♂️
Is that the 3.2 that was used in the landrover LR2?
Yep!
I have 2007 xc90 3.2 engine that rattle like crazy with blinking check engine. I have change all the ignition coil and brand new spark plug but problem still persists. I have check all cylinders comression test shows all above 200psi. Can you help me what might could be the problem. Btw, vehicule has 200658km. Thank you in advance.
I have a 2012 volvo s60 t6. It started fine and runs upto temp with no issue. As soon as it gets warm I get a misfire n#2 cylinder. I just found my pcv diaphragm was bad by leaking air threw it and replaced. Car was fine for 4 days and today started misfiring again....what could this be? I replaced coils and plugs about 25k ago with volvo plugs. Please help and desperate to get it fixed! ❤my volvo
Hi thanks for the informative video. I have a 2011 volvo with a t-6 120,000 miles runs very good. But when I try to start it, cranks to long without firing before finally starting. What do you think?
Did you address your issue? I have the similar issue. I suspect a failing fuel pump
@@leo3325 I have not done the fuel pump. What is the likelihood that is the problem?
@@john1cutlass1986 I suspect a bad check valve cannot hold fuel pressure.
@@leo3325 and that check valve is in the fuel pump?
I've seen similar issues in other makes where the check valve was leaking. What I do to diagnose this is to cycle from off to run several times to build fuel pressure before hitting start. Obviously, this won't work if yours is "push to start".
were these also used in the 960 and 980 volvos? good video thanks.
P0172 trouble code where to start
I’m thinking about buying a Volvo S60 t-6 R design with 118,000 miles for 11,900. Does anyone think this is a good price for this type of car? Also, is there anything that I should ask the dealer before buying?
Seems like a great price!
Scratching my head on this. 2008 S80 T6 Frequently, when I first start driving, during acceleration, usually at about 3000 RPM, I start getting some hesitation and cutting out while accelerating. At idle, engine idles smoothly. No check engine lights. If I turn the car off and start it right back up. It generally runs almost perfect. I have just recently replaced spark plugs, and coil packs, PCV/oil trap (oem) new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor but still having the same issue. Any insight on this?
Do you check transmission oil? I have 09 s80, I had intermittent hesitation during acceleration even slow down (normal without braking). I changed transmission oil twice this summer. Now feels better. The first oil was dark black with some metal pieces. The 2nd was kind of reddish. Maybe I will change it again next summer
Did you ever determine what was causing the acceleration problem? I have the same issue on a 2008 s80 T6.
@@erindaley3925 yes, knock sensor. Had a bad connector and was loosing signal. It is the one behind the oil cooler (pain to get to) so i spliced it in to the other knock sensor and zero issues going on 6 months now
Hello, do you think it's a good idea for me to buy a used 2012 T6 Teknik 3.0L with 175k kms in Australia?
Mine had 167k when I bought it it now has 178k km and it's generally running well still it just needs the serpentine belt changed and also some spark plugs it's quite reliable overall.
what is the recommended miles for timing chain replacement on the 3.2 SI6 engine?
Hi Lemon, there is no interval for that as there is no service in place for it, unlike a timing belt which does have a normal service interval.
@@fcpeuro will a failure of the serpentine belt cause any valve damage? what are some imperative services on a used si6 i shouldnt overlook? just changed a torn pcv yesterday :D and does the si6 have chain guides or anything that go bad?
I believe the chain does have synthetic guides. I've read that there isn't noticeable wear until after 150kmi. I'm at 210kmi and am considering doing the timing chain when i do the serpentine belt and pullies (and alternator bolt)-
I have a 2012 s60 t6 and found bad pcv valve. Replaced and now misfiring when upto temp. Plugs and coils replaced 25k ago. All genuine volvo parts. It seems to misfire when upto temp and then only. Cold starts are fine. Any help would be great! 2012 s60 t6 140k. Randon misfires #2 at temp!!
Double-check that you have no vacuum leaks after the PCV repair.
I will do the glove trick! I wonder if the whole pcv unit needs a new gasket or replacement..
Or could it be that I got the diaphragm off center or the spring off a bit. That was tough to keep spring in place
My 2011 S60 T6 turbo is overheating after just a few minutes of driving and it's breaking my heart! Without also breaking the bank is there a way to diagnose whether it's my radiator or water pump?
Hi Sobrid, the best thing to do would be to inspect the vehicle as best as possible, pull off the timing cover and see if you are losing coolant anywhere. With a good pump, coolant will circulate throughout the system and can be seen flowing back into the expansion tank. A bad thermostat can also cause potential overheating if the unit is stuck closed. Check for any intermix between coolant and oil, if you see some, a compression test or leak-down test is in order.
@@fcpeuro thanks for responding and the tips, I appreciate you very much! Love your channel, so helpful!
I assume you got this fixed by now? I had overheating issues with mine and it turned out to be the ridiculously-expensive radiator fan module that had failed and needed to be replaced. That was over a grand.
@@SuperJ213 mine turned out to be the water pump. They switched out the thermostat too and I had a leak in the vacuum hose so my turbo was taking extra long to spool up and I had like no torque. It's all good now, but yeah it costed like $1,200. This was a hard lesson in learning that cars may depreciate in value, but parts and service definitely does not!
@@SobridMusic interesting. I'm dealing with a loss of power (thinking something's up with my turbo). I guess I'll look into vacuum lines....
I have a non turbo 3.2 , 2011 xc 60 Volvo with 200400 miles on it. I change oil around 6500 and have changed flame trap pcv. It’s due for another oil change soon. I notice a sound of what sounds like a pulley.
I have a 2013 XC60 T6 and it is showing a misfire in cylinder 3. Could you please confirm if it’s 1-6, left to right, or vice versa. Thank you!
Hi Chad, cylinder one starts at the passenger side.
@@fcpeuro I hope this guy does not live in England.
Be careful with the rear gear accessories drive if it makes noise and you don't replace the bearings or fix it right or don't do oil changes on time the bushing that is pressed in the engine block will wear out and the only way to fix it will be a new engine.
Are we not gonna talk about the mouse delivered nuts stored on top of the engine? My little garage friends are in the habit of depositing cat food or birdseed on top of my XC 70 engine.
Yeah the read unit is hugely expensive when it fails
The coolant has to be genuine o I can use Valvoline
u can use valvoline, just make sure the color and spec is the same
I have a 2013 3.2 and it started eating 1 quart of oil every 5000 miles. I’m over it. The car has 100,000 miles on it it is 10 years old
Old school here, but what's more expensive, a quart of oil every few weeks, or a major engine repair? Check the oil every thousand miles and add as needed. Unless you are leaking oil on a driveway, I'd not tear into it until you were burning a LOT more than that.
@@bobmazzi7435 I switched to a high mileage oil and I’m getting 6000 miles now out of it beforr I have to add more. I agree with you. After I posted this a year ago, it started to burn a quart every 3000 miles so this is a big bonus . The car 12 years old and has 125,000 miles on it. I keep a quart behind the second seat. I’ve needed it every once in a while. Because I do long trips. This car isn’t worth tearing into. It’s worth a couple of grand on a good day.
How about those cheap (broken) plastic clips that fold down the rear seats on xc70……..and the parasitic drain
You are steering me away from the xc90
*XC70
Ya naw, this definitely sounds like a uniquely nightmarish maintenance experience. All the fussiness of a German engine with some Swedish twisting too. Easy to overlook something minor that you should have done "while in there" that then leads to going back again. And again.
Changed all parts mentioned on the video with original Volvo parts and my engine has still an air leak hence misfiring frequently especially when hot and so far 3 different garages were not able to trace it....I will NEVER buy a Volvo again in my life...
So sad to hear. Don’t blame the car for inept mechanics.
@@ghostwrench2292 I am blaming the car first of all, cause the car started having issues when the mileage was just over 60k. (1 owner, no accidents, parked in underground parking, very meticulous owner)...and certainly equally responsible are the mechanics
Ever tried to bring it back to the dealer? Might be a recall or they may be more professional in diagnose their own brand cars.
you wouldve been useful a few years ago but i since sold my t6 rdesign
We will be awaiting your return!
Too many parts and problems, i rather go walk my dog.
It's a terribly designed engine. Very expensive to maintain. Burns oil like it was meant to run on it
I own a 2008 t6 AWD; worst car ever! Coming back to Toyota asap
So why are you watching this or even commenting? 😆 And it's "Going back to Toyota"... 🙄
Bring back the old slant six cylinder engines. Jeeps 4.0. Volvo 3.2 burns oil for you climate changes fanatics. To much 💩 to break on new engines. Engineers suck they make it very hard to get at changing parts. Rubber belts instead of chains they suck to. TH-cam changing a simple cabin filter in a Volvo. My Honda Ridgeline is five minutes. Drop the glove snap out the filter cover change the filter snap the cover back on pop the glove compartment on done.
I have 2007 xc90 3.2 engine that rattle like crazy with blinking check engine. I have change all the ignition coil and brand new spark plug but problem still persists. I have check all cylinders comression test shows all above 200psi. Can you help me what might could be the problem. Btw, vehicule has 200658km. Thank you in advance.
If you have a blinking CEL, then you should start by scanning for codes and that will give you an idea of where the problem might be. Good luck!