Something that may help is to radius the edge of the plastic pipe. Airflow doesn't like sharp corners. I also think that small filter is part of the problem. Take it off and see what happens. It will tell you if the filter or the tubing is the issue.
I like the cone style filter idea. You may also be able to make a retaining bracket on the metal tube portion & then maybe(?) be able to 'hard' mount the filter element, allow you to only service the intermediate hose. I think you get what I'm trying to convey. I'd agree the smaller element is some of the problem; what i wonder is, being as it's ducted air for the radiator, is there 'competion' as it were, for the volume of air. I wouldn't think so, but there was actually a fair amount of engineering involved to make those cooling systems work then( but you know this being a micro car mechanic, huh?). Yeah, Stella was set for a trip in the Singer!
You might step up the diameter after the elbow to a 3" or 4" double wall stainless steel pellet stove chimney pipe. The radiator is heating your intake pipe, and the double wall pipe should keep the intake air cooler.
@@2stroketurbo I would search for the original. I know you like to find a fix but Wren-O knew what was best. That tiny round filter is very crude and rather restrictive. You could try it on the end of the rubber hose out sideways. The long pipe might get a resonance that causes a block at 3k revs. The Volvo B18A with a similar Zenith carb has a long nozzle on the filter. It is tapered and the entry size is only 30mm and that is fine for 6k revs and that is 1800cc the same as in your Singer. Although cold air is always best it's not critical for good running. On the road you'll see very little difference. Do you have a filter on the 4CV?
How in the world did you get the air filter on that pipe ahead of the radiator? Is there a trap door to reach that? I hope you did not have to take out the radiator!
I bet the rad fan is creating negative air pressure for the intake at higher rpms. I tried various intakes on my 4CV many years ago and none of them worked very well.
@vancemarin8022 THAT makes a lot of sense & I'm thinking you're right. I wonder if routing the air intake towards the bottom of the engine bay is the way to go( it could at least be tested temporarily).
@@jamesthompson8008 The fan is sucking A LOT of air through the rad and I really don't think going to the bottom is going to help much Worth a try but you will get a lot of dirt and debris in the air filter off of the road.
The air filter is TOO close to the radiator air inlet. The cooling fan is sucking the carb inlet air away from the filter causing a negative flow. Running the pipe to the other side of the water tank will allow a better air flow.
Hey, just poke a hole in the trunk lid and run a air scoop up above the car roofline. Do that to the exhaust as well. Now, get in it and drive it back to France. Isnt that how it got here? Lol
Wouldn't the factory air cleaner work better? It has more surface area on the pleated filter, not only that, doesn't warmer air vaporized gas better? Or is it better to have a proper temperature differential?
I think your car had the air intake in the trunk, in front of the car, and i think your car miss an air intake box, it need a volume above the carb, and you better put a manual choke on your carb, i had 8 Dauphine in France and i put manual choke on every one, even on my 4cv
Something that may help is to radius the edge of the plastic pipe. Airflow doesn't like sharp corners. I also think that small filter is part of the problem. Take it off and see what happens. It will tell you if the filter or the tubing is the issue.
Is it possible that the rubber hose is collapsing at the higher rpm?
Try some exhaust wrap to reduce the temperature going to the carb.
I am glad the cooling issues are resolved. Can't wait to see how you sort out the intake!
Mark, I enjoy your videos. Have you considered making a sheet metal ducted cold air to the factory air cleaner (possibly modified)? Just a thought.
The canister might serve as a buffer at higher revs.
I like the cone style filter idea. You may also be able to make a retaining bracket on the metal tube portion & then maybe(?) be able to 'hard' mount the filter element, allow you to only service the intermediate hose. I think you get what I'm trying to convey.
I'd agree the smaller element is some of the problem; what i wonder is, being as it's ducted air for the radiator, is there 'competion' as it were, for the volume of air. I wouldn't think so, but there was actually a fair amount of engineering involved to make those cooling systems work then( but you know this being a micro car mechanic, huh?).
Yeah, Stella was set for a trip in the Singer!
We love Stella.may you live forever!
The air intake on my 4 liter Land Rover is smaller than that but it has a reverse cone and a large air box and filter.
run a pipe to under the front bumper you get cool ram air when your moving
Mark, why not use the standard air filter and run the intake for it farward to gat cool air
You might step up the diameter after the elbow to a 3" or 4" double wall stainless steel pellet stove chimney pipe. The radiator is heating your intake pipe, and the double wall pipe should keep the intake air cooler.
The air filter maybe a issue I've had issues on using those small filters
Yep!
...any way to fit a flexible pipe ( AKA dryer vent with foil covering ) in the plenum ahead of the radiator away from the exhaust side?
Why not go stock if you have the parts? The car was tested at 100km/h in Europe too, the stock system should work flawless...
I forgot where I put the stock air canister. It will show up when I least expect it. 😆
@@2stroketurbo I would search for the original. I know you like to find a fix but Wren-O knew what was best. That tiny round filter is very crude and rather restrictive. You could try it on the end of the rubber hose out sideways. The long pipe might get a resonance that causes a block at 3k revs. The Volvo B18A with a similar Zenith carb has a long nozzle on the filter. It is tapered and the entry size is only 30mm and that is fine for 6k revs and that is 1800cc the same as in your Singer. Although cold air is always best it's not critical for good running. On the road you'll see very little difference. Do you have a filter on the 4CV?
How in the world did you get the air filter on that pipe ahead of the radiator? Is there a trap door to reach that? I hope you did not have to take out the radiator!
you need an airbox with at least as much volume as the original
Methinks you might be right
I'd try the original filter, box, hose, and see how it drives.
I bet the rad fan is creating negative air pressure for the intake at higher rpms. I tried various intakes on my 4CV many years ago and none of them worked very well.
@vancemarin8022 THAT makes a lot of sense & I'm thinking you're right.
I wonder if routing the air intake towards the bottom of the engine bay is the way to go( it could at least be tested temporarily).
@@jamesthompson8008 The fan is sucking A LOT of air through the rad and I really don't think going to the bottom is going to help much Worth a try but you will get a lot of dirt and debris in the air filter off of the road.
@vancemarin8022 Right, but for test purposes is what I was thinking.
Quickly confirms the negative pressure idea.
i thought that would have worked
"PVC"? Correction: More like ABS
OK??? Im not ok but i thank you for choosing me as joint ownership in our car the gordini.. best friend ever ...
Uh oh.
The air filter is TOO close to the radiator air inlet. The cooling fan is sucking the carb inlet air away from the filter causing a negative flow. Running the pipe to the other side of the water tank will allow a better air flow.
Hey, just poke a hole in the trunk lid and run a air scoop up above the car roofline. Do that to the exhaust as well.
Now, get in it and drive it back to France. Isnt that how it got here? Lol
Wouldn't the factory air cleaner work better? It has more surface area on the pleated filter, not only that, doesn't warmer air vaporized gas better? Or is it better to have a proper temperature differential?
I think your car had the air intake in the trunk, in front of the car, and i think your car miss an air intake box, it need a volume above the carb, and you better put a manual choke on your carb, i had 8 Dauphine in France and i put manual choke on every one, even on my 4cv
If all else fails, pull the turbo off the old chevy PU!!