Breaking taps is easy when you put so little lubrication. Also for removing burs you should be using a larger drill than the full diameter of the screw you're using on the burr side, this applies to all screwsheads, but specially chamfered screwsheads.
Hi TW, I just wanted to thank you for taking time to go over the steps of your vocation without skipping details. I’m sure you do your best to not leave the viewers flapping-in-the-breeze and it really shows. While there are some channels that make useful tools that can be inspiring to watch, they don’t offer any details which makes your channel a great reference and learning experience for many people trying gain these skills. I appreciate and wish your channel the best. Piece!
Solve the distance between pins issue by making “sleeve-overs”. Same inner diameter, sufficient enough to slide over your pins, but different outer diameter sized from small to large according the round stock diameter, or the flat stock gauge thickness.
Maybe You could fit a ball bearing on one or even both pins, the surface finish should be way better, however I'm not sure how many bearings would be needed to keep the tool versatile. But for repeated tasks, I'd give it a thought
5:29 Don't put pins closer together , just slide a bushing over the pin to take up space, you could also slide a bushing over the other pin for a slightly bigger radius bend
I love how Tim reveals his mistake and critiques it, then everyone genuinely comments on how to correct or do a work-around with the current finished piece. Now, everyone has more insight and Tim has ideas for further videos and exploration. Love it!
Thats what I like with engineering. Theres always something to be improved. And its not necessarily improvements. Sometimes each design has their pros and cons, so the dilemma is not on whether to make it better, but to choose what exact features you prefer more
Yes, it's really helpful. I feel like too many youtubers want to create the illusion of perfection and we miss out on all the learning mistakes that everyone makes!
After you have drilled the first hole to the 5/16" size, remove the drill from the chuck and chuck the tap in place of it. Use the chuck wrench to turn the chuck by hand as you press the tap into the hole. Guaranteed to be started straight. Once started, release the tap from the chuck while still threaded into the hole and use the tap wrench to finish it.
Most attempted forward drive is usually about 1/2 -3/4 turn, then backoff turn 1/4 turn to clear chips, use tap lube on that thickness to make easier and cleaner taps. I'm no expert ,but have found this to be very beneficial, and lesser chance of breaking taps.
@@danielfield3580 - With a good industrial quality tap that is still sharp and a proper hole size, having to back the tap up and cut a little at a time should not be needed. Reasons you may need to use your procedure is because the tap is low quality, or you have a once good but now worn out/dull tap, the hole size is too small or not straight (curved hole), or the tap was not started straight. It doesn't hurt to use a good tapping oil, the best kind depends on the metal being used. I'm sure there is plenty of online info about that. Oil with sulfur is really good for ferrous metals, Ace Hardware used to sell stuff that works well, it actually makes a significant difference. Newly cut threads should look nice and smooth, not rough and torn looking. Most taps sold in stores are junk for cutting new threads, they do okay for using as a thread chaser and restoring dinged up threads. Places such as MSC Industrial and McMaster Carr are a couple of places to buy good industrial quality tools. Taps should have sharp cutting edges, a good magnifying glass can help verify the condition. Cheap taps are not generally very sharp even when new, and just don't cut well at all. If you are using a tap as a thread chaser, being dull is not necessarily a problem, as the dull tap will reform the out of place metal instead of removing it. When you have a good tap, a good hole, and the tap is lined up with the hole, most people would be surprised at how little torque is needed to tap a hole. Some people might say it doesn't matter or that I don't know what I'm talking about, but I have a manufacturing business and we have literally tapped millions of holes, sometimes using a tap for 1,000's of holes before retiring it.
@@G53X0Y0Z0 Great post. If you're going to go cheap on anything in the shop, buying cutting tools is definitely NOT the time to do it. Taps, drills, whatever... get the good stuff. It's worth it. "Buy once, cry once" as people say.
Great job! Here's a couple pointers for ya. Use a chamfer bit after you drill you tap sized hole. This helps the tap start, and no deburring afterwards. Also try a 2 or 3 flute tap instead of a 4 flute tap. 2 and 3 flute are much stronger for creating threads. 4 flute is better for repairing or chasing threads.
What I especially like, is that you're one of the first that admits you don't use / have all the latest wiz-bang tools when showing us how to make things. This is in keeping with the reality of many of your viewers, myself included. Often times, frustrated, I'm like "...yeah, well if I had a $8,000 whatever..." I could make this thing too. LOL.... You keep it simple and keep it real. I like that.
Great project! I'll need to make one of these for myself. One thing... Shoulder bolts have a slight radius and don't seat perfectly in holes. If you countersink your holes prior to tapping, you'll eliminate the need to deburr and the shoulder bolts will seat properly and be less likely to snap. Thanks for sharing!
When you mentioned that you'd wished you'd make the pins closer, the way you made it two pieces that slide together, it would seem you're actually better off that you think. You could make a second small piece to swap them to let you accommodate for different size materials when you want it. Good project!
Great little fixture! If you want to stop breaking taps, you need to use the correct drill size for the material you're tapping. Using a 5/16" drill for a 3/8"-16 tap is fine if you're putting it into Aluminum, Brass, Plastic, etc., where you want a 75% thread. The correct drill size for steel is a "Q" (0.332) drill, which will give you a 50% thread, which is standard for steel. That 0.020" might not seem like a lot, but it makes a huge difference when tapping holes. If you don't have letter drills, you should at least use a 21/64" drill which is only 0.004" smaller than the Q. Spend the money on the correct drill, it's a lot cheaper than breaking taps...
I always chamfer my hole before tapping the threads. It makes it easier to start the tap and gives a better, stronger fit up. To change the gap I use my 1/2" drive sockets or bushings that works even better. Great video. Thank you.
Instead of drilling and tapping, then installing bolts, you could also drill for plain steel pins. Insert the pins about 2/3 of the way into the steel plate. Then weld the pins in place from behind. You sort of did that anyway. This would eliminate the need to thread the hole.
A tip for tapping holes, get yourself a HSS countersink drill bit and put a bit of a chamfer on the hole you will tap. It makes starting a smidge easier and you'll have no burr to clean up after tapping. Also, if you make the chamfer a little larger than the thread size it'll give it a nice look and make the bolt easier to start.
love that you used the metric system as well. thank you. After 10mm you can start using cm and it will be easier to understand with more manageable numbers
One hint about taps. NEVER, and I mean NEVER buy “hand taps”. I know, supposedly, hand taps are for tapping by hand. But actually, they’re just easier to make, and so were the first type of taps that were made. But they’re also the worse kind of tap. They require the most pressure to tap with, and as you mentioned, they require that half back turn every forward turn, or so, to clear the chips. Instead, buy spiral point taps. They cut one continuous length of material, which is ejected through the rear of the hole, forwards to the cut. They’re also known as machine taps, and occasionally, gun taps. Because since they cut continuously, they can be used under power. But these are great for hand tapping. You get smoother threads, and with less torque needed, there is less tendency to break them.
Absolutely correct Mel. When I can, I buy the spiral machine taps. You can use a common drill press, set to low speed. I leave the v-belt drive slightly loose to allow for stall in case there is a jam, which rarely happens with spiral taps. Be sure to use a liberal amount of Tap Magic before starting the cut. If the drill press is properly trammed to 90 deg. to the table, you get a perfect tapped hole.
@@tigerseye73 yup. I installed a three phase motor in one of my presses with a VFD drive. It’s easy to vary the speeds, and reverse it. For people who have never machine tapped, I have to warn you to strongly clamp the work to the table, and make sure the table is tightened down securely. You’d be surprised at how much force even a 6:32 tap exerts vertically! Even if you have a heavy, 60 pound vise on the table, not held down, the tap will lift that vise right up, at an angle and break the tap. It could easily spin a smaller vise around.
@@pufango4059 I think you’re insulting and don’t know what you’re talking about. I’ve hand tapped more holes over 55 years then you will have even seen.
Another way to avoid breaking taps is use 2 or 3 fluted taps, they have thicker webs between the flutes. Now there is a drawback that fewer flutes creates more tool pressure. Great tool think I'll make one! Thanks!
I'm thankful for this demonstration! A neat, solid, practicable and easy to build tool, adapable to one's own bench vice. Also thanks to the commentators suggesting the use of bushes for variable pin-distance. Perfect for me!
I guess you could get some larger bar stock and center drill it to slip over the pins and use it on either pin to make larger diameter bend or prevent the shorter bar from coming out.
Pretty good project! Try C’Sinking the holes before tapping it will help with starting the tap. Go a A little heavier on the backside then you have a weld prep already there!
I'm seeing all kinds of possibilities here with your bender; Different diameter pins, additional holes in the main bar to change spacing, maybe a little flat bar bending.
When drilling the base and slider, drill through TWO additional short lengths of bar, these can then be opened up to suit the studs and, by slipping them over the studs before bending, it will give a LOT more strength and reduce the spreading affect on the tool, especially with larger gauge rods or bar.
I make tap guides from an old bolt, where the shank is of course larger than the tap diameter. Hacksaw to 2/3 of tap length Chuck it in the lathe, face off any tensile grading embossing off the hex head down to half original head height then centre drill and drill through the appropriate diameter. The hex head flange now provides something for your fingers to press down upon when tapping.
i used two pins like these but i drilled two holes in the pins and slipped them onto a round bar just to keep them in line, then you have a completely adjustable distance between the two pins. you put the two pins in the vice jaws with the holding bar under the jaw out the way, you can now use the pins on their own at any distance along the jaws or you can add slip over rounds to increase the diameter of the bends, i use the dies from a metal bender i got from ebay as a parts lot, you cam make your own by drilling out round stock. i also made some flat bar fit around the dies as slip on covers to make up any special sized radius needed you can make a bending bar with either a forked end or just leave it as an open bar to bend the stock. a more versatile tool if you want to make larger radius, add some oxy acetelyne to make it very easy,
Thank you very much. Will rebuild this from high density plywood and necked screw to bend small rods. No more vice marks on my rods and tighter angles.
I was trying to make a consistent Bender for some slingshots I make. It did not go well I think I'll give this a try. Love the shoulder bolt technique.
Nice, Tim, thanks! Suggestion: make the pulling bar as you described. Put one pin in the smaller bar (holder). Place the pulling bar over that pin, rotate it 45 degrees, then mark the location of the second pin off the protruding corner. That will get you as close as you can get to that second pin.
I did the same, seen one for sale for well over $100. I just made it. I welded the round bar from the bottom. I may tap several hole locations later if I need. Cool video thanks.
good quality taps are worth their weight. for common sizes like 1/4" 20tpi, it makes sense to get the best you can find if you do it frequently. I work for a manufacturing company and we tap holes using a pneumatic power tool (none of that back and forth). we use "Rapidtap" thread cutting fluid. i've tapped thousands of holes before breaking them sometimes.
Rather than threading, especially since you welded it, drill the hole 1/64 or so bigger than your harden pin. Don't push the pin all the way through, leaving maybe 1/8 inch gap on the bottom, and then 'plug' weld it. You can weld around the top as well. Used to do this for metal plates to be put into a concrete slab for metal buildings and then the up rights would weld onto the plate. A very secure fit rather than just trying to weld anchor bolts onto the bottom of the metal plate.
The first thing I thought. If you are going to weld, skip the taping.Countersink the back, weld the bolt in, then cut it off flat. Shoulder bolts are nice, but any grade 8 bolt would work.
Good practice is to counter sunk the holes before tapping a thread. It will make it easier to start the thread and help preventing broken taps. The tap you are using should be turned backwards a 1/4 turn after every 1/2 to 3/4 turn this will also help with not breaking taps.
If you drill our some round-rod, the size of your studs, and drill amd tap a few more holes, you can move your pin and put various diameter donuts on the pin and bend different radiuses on the same bender. THANK YOU for sharing
You should definitely make a video explaining what you need installed or should be checked with the home breaker box in order to safely weld at home. I can't really find information on it now that I bought my first welder. This may be common knowledge or a stupid question to some but I'm no electrician and have no welding experience and it might be a good topic!
Your welder user manual should be specific about the circuit and over current breaker size required to power your welder. If you feel uncomfortable with it then call in a favor from an electrician buddy. There are so many welders out there with different power requirements it would be hard to do a detailed explanation.
Thanks. An easy way to start the tap is to use your drill press chuck. Drill your hole to the correct size and without removing or moving the piece, put your tap into the chuck and tighten it. Then using your hand only, (NO power!) lower the tap into hole and then hand turn the chuck until you can't turn it any more. Abit of pressure is kept on the tap using the drill press lever. This starts the thread square. I then lossen the chuck to release the tap and keeping the piece secure, I finish the thread by using the tap handle. I hope this helps.
Simple bender, got to make one myself. thanks You can narrow the pins by adding a round cylinder over the pins, such as tubing, or, if you are lucky, a socket from a hex socket set.
Fantastic👍👍I brought a cheap 1 of these a while ago and it’s totally useless but now you’ve shown how to make a decent 1 I know what I’m going to do next week. Massive thanks 👍👍👍
I made one of these years ago. One additional point is to harden and temper the pins if you have the means. Otherwise they'll wear pretty quickly. Lubricating the moving pin probably helps too.
If you chamfer the holes prior to tapping the end result will be a little cleaner and you don’t have to deburr after. Plus helps the tap get started. Not always necessary but I’ve noticed it helps me.
Get yourself a Blacksmith Post Vise for work like that, they are heavy and mine has a large 1” thick steel plate on the floor that the mount is built off of and I can stand on the plate on the floor if I’m doing something that actually makes the vise start to move but that’s rare as my setup probably weighs like 400 pounds
Hey Tim my name is Jim. I just wanted to tell you that i really appreciate the content you put out. Im new to welding. And i watch all your videos. Ive learned so much from your videos. You show people the right way to do things, you explain it very very well so newbies can understand what you are talking about. You arent super flashy with your content, but it is filmed and edited very professionally. You are humble and people who are just learning are naturally drawn to the way you teach. Thank you very much for what you do sir. Keep your hood down and keep burning rod. P.S. i have a request. Could you maybe do a video this holiday season on so simple DIY welding projects that could be used for Christmas gifts. Like those metal roses ive seen. Idk just a thought.
Looks like a a handy tool, if you want to enjoy tapping first thing is throw that style tap in the garbage. Use a spiral point tap for through holes, and a spiral flute tap for blind holes. The spiral point tap pushes the chip forward, the spiral flute tap pulls it out of the hole. Also if you start tapping the hole with the tap in the chuck on the drill press, you can turn it by hand to start the tap straight, I have a bridgeport mill which is so nice because it can turn real slow, so most tapping I run the tap all the way through. But either way its awesome for starting the tap straight.
Another great one Tim….. I have holes in my welding table for 16 mm bolts….. I need to drill more holes closer together…… sure needed this tool last week…. Used the vise very carefully….. thanks buddy👍✅
Tim, if you want to start out your tap absolutely vertical, Chuck it up in your drill press, bring it down to the hole and start it by rotating the chuck, pressing down gently. Once the tap has started release the tap from the chuck and use your normal tap handle. Easy Peasy.
No knowing anything about welding because of you I am putting myself through welding class watching your video sir 🙏🏽 oh and I still suck at welding but it’s only been 2 weeks and maybe 6 hours of practice but should get the hang of stick welding so thank you 🙏🏽 for teaching
Nice tool. Here’s a tip to keep your bench mobile and stable - put locking swivels on one end and locking straight casters on the end where the vice is mounted. You should see an immediate improvement.
You can cut 1" pieces of steel, different diameters and drilled to one size bigger than the pin size. spread the pons further apart, and Drop that spacer onto the pin for more different bend radiuses. You've got a nice bender. Just add this to it and it will round it out to a fuller bender. (I'm a tool designer, retired, and in my seventies.)
If you drill a hole in two steps, the pilot drill should be no larger than about 20% of the finish hole size. This will save you from breaking the finish hole drill. A drill bit is nothing more than two rotating chisels. It is the most load you can put on the cutting edge to size up one size. All that load is going on the very edge instead of being spread out over most of the cutting edge. Hope this helps. Great to have a handy bending tool in the shop. Thanks for sharing.
Love this! I’ve been looking for an idea for how to make a ring bender (jewelry) - all the commercial products are cheaply made and expensive! Many of the diy ideas are way out of my skill set. This, I could at least borrow the physics of it as well as some of the great suggestions in the comments. Thanks all!
Show of hands ...how many of us have also come to the same realization of flawed logic due to lack of data and have no other explanation of Why we did what we did other than "it looked about right at the time" 😂 I know i have 😂 to err is human indeed! Bravo man, fantastic videos, very informative and to the point. detailed, respect to the people that recognize the value of passing the torch and providing a candle in the dark!! Thanks so much bravo to your work and your efforts.
Buy OSG 2 flute gun taps for tapping and Balax Thread Forming taps when you want to extrude the thread. Thread forming is great for smaller threads because you don't snap so many. As in all tapping, the lube is king and you're correct to use a dedicated fluid. Make those two pins closer together ( in practice) by sliding a sleeve of tubing over the one.
Tim, I just watched the rod bender video. I tough if yo placed a sleeve over the welded pin you could get the tighter bends without slipping. Maude copper pipe would work.
For cutting threads, the tap needs to be made of HSS (high speed steel). Most taps found in hardware stores and online are hardened tool steel, these are not meant for cutting threads, but “chasing” them, really just cleaning up threaded holes that are rusty or buggered up somehow. You will definitely break them, but less likely a HSS tap if its sharp and you follow the procedure like shown in video.
Wouldn't it be OK to use the center punch to "upset" the threads in 3 or 4 places on the bottom side of the small plate after the protrudiing screw threads have been cut off rather than to weld them? That would work for the long bar as well. What is the maximum size round bar and flat bar that can be bent to 90 degrees or more using the 24-inch long handle without be musclesman? Thanks for the video.
You have most of the equipment to do a press fit. You have a drill press and drill bits. The drill press is the expensive part to get a perpendicular hole. What you need is a reamer. Nice job with the build.
I used this tool but, much larger, integrated into a workbench and powered by electric motor in a prefabricated concrete forms factory where prefab forms for bridges and large buildings were being made. That was back in nineties. I was plying rebars thick up to two inches.
An easy solution to close up your bend radius is to get some thin wall spacers that have an ID that is increasingly larger and slip them over the shoulder bolts. Once you have a set of several sized spacers you could redesign the dimension to increase the distance of the bolt centers to be more ideal for the desired bends you want to make.
best bench -vise bar bender project on the internet....there are some other good ones but they're mostly just copies of all the usual commercially available types ....with roller bearings, heavy pedestal, etc....NP if one lives in a junk yard ,or, has lots of costly hardware laying around..i don't. it would be cheaper and more effective for me to buy one from Harbor Freight .Thats why this super simple one is AWESOME
Excellent Tim. I'm quite inspired. Lots of rain here at the moment. I need to build a cover as I do most my welding semi outdoor. So once I have my semi outdoor setting in place or finer weather I will resume my welding projects. Also I plan on purchasing a European proffesioa stick welder. I do have a mid range proffesional mig, tig stick welder. I also have a starter kit dc stick, welder which doesn't give a constant power and causes stops in my runs which is rather annoying. I bought a heavy duty earth which may help a little although my engineer friend recently purchased a European stick welder which he is quite pleased with. I'm also thinking of buying a 36 volt hikoki grinder which will be a nice assesory to my 1700 watt metabo grinder as it also has a speed setting for different applications. Once again, thanks for uploading. Appreciated.
You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
Where do you get your metal?
you have to make a video dedicated to making triangles PLEASE
use more tap grease and you should break less taps you barely put any on there
Breaking taps is easy when you put so little lubrication. Also for removing burs you should be using a larger drill than the full diameter of the screw you're using on the burr side, this applies to all screwsheads, but specially chamfered screwsheads.
Hi TW, I just wanted to thank you for taking time to go over the steps of your vocation without skipping details. I’m sure you do your best to not leave the viewers flapping-in-the-breeze and it really shows. While there are some channels that make useful tools that can be inspiring to watch, they don’t offer any details which makes your channel a great reference and learning experience for many people trying gain these skills. I appreciate and wish your channel the best. Piece!
Solve the distance between pins issue by making “sleeve-overs”. Same inner diameter, sufficient enough to slide over your pins, but different outer diameter sized from small to large according the round stock diameter, or the flat stock gauge thickness.
Could you just cut some flat bar and use it to "absorb" the distance, thus allowing for the larger space?
Adding the sleeve-overs would also allow for a better surface finish, avoiding the dragging on the surfaces.
That was my 1st thought as well.
Maybe You could fit a ball bearing on one or even both pins, the surface finish should be way better, however I'm not sure how many bearings would be needed to keep the tool versatile. But for repeated tasks, I'd give it a thought
You beat me to it!
5:29 Don't put pins closer together , just slide a bushing over the pin to take up space, you could also slide a bushing over the other pin for a slightly bigger radius bend
You got there before me :)
Comments from knowledgeable folks like you are why I always read the comments. Thanx!
I love how Tim reveals his mistake and critiques it, then everyone genuinely comments on how to correct or do a work-around with the current finished piece. Now, everyone has more insight and Tim has ideas for further videos and exploration. Love it!
Me too! Like you said, it’s good for everyone’s insight! Everyone is better because of it!
Thats what I like with engineering. Theres always something to be improved. And its not necessarily improvements. Sometimes each design has their pros and cons, so the dilemma is not on whether to make it better, but to choose what exact features you prefer more
Yes, it's really helpful. I feel like too many youtubers want to create the illusion of perfection and we miss out on all the learning mistakes that everyone makes!
@@aries6776 For sure! My videos are deep dives into the art of making mistakes and figuring things out lol
@@de0509 brilliant observation of the problem I encounter with Backyard Engineering.
After you have drilled the first hole to the 5/16" size, remove the drill from the chuck and chuck the tap in place of it. Use the chuck wrench to turn the chuck by hand as you press the tap into the hole. Guaranteed to be started straight. Once started, release the tap from the chuck while still threaded into the hole and use the tap wrench to finish it.
Most attempted forward drive is usually about 1/2 -3/4 turn, then backoff turn 1/4 turn to clear chips, use tap lube on that thickness to make easier and cleaner taps. I'm no expert ,but have found this to be very beneficial, and lesser chance of breaking taps.
@@danielfield3580 - With a good industrial quality tap that is still sharp and a proper hole size, having to back the tap up and cut a little at a time should not be needed. Reasons you may need to use your procedure is because the tap is low quality, or you have a once good but now worn out/dull tap, the hole size is too small or not straight (curved hole), or the tap was not started straight.
It doesn't hurt to use a good tapping oil, the best kind depends on the metal being used. I'm sure there is plenty of online info about that. Oil with sulfur is really good for ferrous metals, Ace Hardware used to sell stuff that works well, it actually makes a significant difference. Newly cut threads should look nice and smooth, not rough and torn looking.
Most taps sold in stores are junk for cutting new threads, they do okay for using as a thread chaser and restoring dinged up threads. Places such as MSC Industrial and McMaster Carr are a couple of places to buy good industrial quality tools. Taps should have sharp cutting edges, a good magnifying glass can help verify the condition.
Cheap taps are not generally very sharp even when new, and just don't cut well at all. If you are using a tap as a thread chaser, being dull is not necessarily a problem, as the dull tap will reform the out of place metal instead of removing it.
When you have a good tap, a good hole, and the tap is lined up with the hole, most people would be surprised at how little torque is needed to tap a hole.
Some people might say it doesn't matter or that I don't know what I'm talking about, but I have a manufacturing business and we have literally tapped millions of holes, sometimes using a tap for 1,000's of holes before retiring it.
@@G53X0Y0Z0 Great post. If you're going to go cheap on anything in the shop, buying cutting tools is definitely NOT the time to do it. Taps, drills, whatever... get the good stuff. It's worth it. "Buy once, cry once" as people say.
I tapped many under power on the ol' Bridgeport!
Great job! Here's a couple pointers for ya. Use a chamfer bit after you drill you tap sized hole. This helps the tap start, and no deburring afterwards. Also try a 2 or 3 flute tap instead of a 4 flute tap. 2 and 3 flute are much stronger for creating threads. 4 flute is better for repairing or chasing threads.
Professionally done, no unnecessary comments, short and to the point; great work!
What I especially like, is that you're one of the first that admits you don't use / have all the latest wiz-bang tools when showing us how to make things. This is in keeping with the reality of many of your viewers, myself included. Often times, frustrated, I'm like "...yeah, well if I had a $8,000 whatever..." I could make this thing too. LOL.... You keep it simple and keep it real. I like that.
Agree. He uses a power saw witch is a good thing to cut fast and effortless but you could get the same result with a handsaw and elbow grease.
The tools to get a press fit really aren't that expensive.
Great project! I'll need to make one of these for myself.
One thing...
Shoulder bolts have a slight radius and don't seat perfectly in holes. If you countersink your holes prior to tapping, you'll eliminate the need to deburr and the shoulder bolts will seat properly and be less likely to snap. Thanks for sharing!
This guys video about bending metal is by far the best. hes straight to the point no music to do ya head in very easy to watch and learn
When you mentioned that you'd wished you'd make the pins closer, the way you made it two pieces that slide together, it would seem you're actually better off that you think. You could make a second small piece to swap them to let you accommodate for different size materials when you want it. Good project!
Great idea! I think I may do that.
Or you can make a bushing to slide down over one of the posts to decrease the distance.
@@kingplumber I was going to say this. You beat me to it. Great idea. 👍
can use spacers (some cutoff tube) over the pins to make them wider
Thank you for saying both mm and inches. Makes it easier for the rest of the world to enjoy your videos :)
Great little fixture! If you want to stop breaking taps, you need to use the correct drill size for the material you're tapping. Using a 5/16" drill for a 3/8"-16 tap is fine if you're putting it into Aluminum, Brass, Plastic, etc., where you want a 75% thread. The correct drill size for steel is a "Q" (0.332) drill, which will give you a 50% thread, which is standard for steel. That 0.020" might not seem like a lot, but it makes a huge difference when tapping holes. If you don't have letter drills, you should at least use a 21/64" drill which is only 0.004" smaller than the Q. Spend the money on the correct drill, it's a lot cheaper than breaking taps...
I always chamfer my hole before tapping the threads. It makes it easier to start the tap and gives a better, stronger fit up. To change the gap I use my 1/2" drive sockets or bushings that works even better. Great video. Thank you.
An American that gives dimensions in METRIC as well as inches? 😵😵😵😵😵
There is hope in this World! 😎
It is fantastic. Bravo
Instead of drilling and tapping, then installing bolts, you could also drill for plain steel pins. Insert the pins about 2/3 of the way into the steel plate. Then weld the pins in place from behind. You sort of did that anyway. This would eliminate the need to thread the hole.
My tap kit includes three taps in every size, start, middle and finalizing tap. My tap kit was my fathers, +40 years old, never broke a tap.
A tip for tapping holes, get yourself a HSS countersink drill bit and put a bit of a chamfer on the hole you will tap.
It makes starting a smidge easier and you'll have no burr to clean up after tapping. Also, if you make the chamfer a little larger than the thread size it'll give it a nice look and make the bolt easier to start.
love that you used the metric system as well. thank you. After 10mm you can start using cm and it will be easier to understand with more manageable numbers
I know nothing about this craft and I'm fascinated by your work. Love your enthusiasm!
One hint about taps. NEVER, and I mean NEVER buy “hand taps”. I know, supposedly, hand taps are for tapping by hand. But actually, they’re just easier to make, and so were the first type of taps that were made. But they’re also the worse kind of tap. They require the most pressure to tap with, and as you mentioned, they require that half back turn every forward turn, or so, to clear the chips.
Instead, buy spiral point taps. They cut one continuous length of material, which is ejected through the rear of the hole, forwards to the cut. They’re also known as machine taps, and occasionally, gun taps. Because since they cut continuously, they can be used under power. But these are great for hand tapping. You get smoother threads, and with less torque needed, there is less tendency to break them.
Very cool! I'm going to have to check out some spiral taps. Thanks Mel!
Absolutely correct Mel. When I can, I buy the spiral machine taps. You can use a common drill press, set to low speed. I leave the v-belt drive slightly loose to allow for stall in case there is a jam, which rarely happens with spiral taps. Be sure to use a liberal amount of Tap Magic before starting the cut. If the drill press is properly trammed to 90 deg. to the table, you get a perfect tapped hole.
@@tigerseye73 yup. I installed a three phase motor in one of my presses with a VFD drive. It’s easy to vary the speeds, and reverse it. For people who have never machine tapped, I have to warn you to strongly clamp the work to the table, and make sure the table is tightened down securely. You’d be surprised at how much force even a 6:32 tap exerts vertically! Even if you have a heavy, 60 pound vise on the table, not held down, the tap will lift that vise right up, at an angle and break the tap. It could easily spin a smaller vise around.
It’s not a problem if you know how to use them. I’m assuming you’re a bit heavy handed and don’t have the skill to use hand taps ?
@@pufango4059 I think you’re insulting and don’t know what you’re talking about. I’ve hand tapped more holes over 55 years then you will have even seen.
Cool tool I think I’ll make one. But I won’t use cap bolts or tap the holes or anything fancy. Just going to weld some rods into the holes. Cheers!
Another way to avoid breaking taps is use 2 or 3 fluted taps, they have thicker webs between the flutes. Now there is a drawback that fewer flutes creates more tool pressure. Great tool think I'll make one! Thanks!
I'm thankful for this demonstration! A neat, solid, practicable and easy to build tool, adapable to one's own bench vice. Also thanks to the commentators suggesting the use of bushes for variable pin-distance. Perfect for me!
I really enjoy practical videos like this! Thank you for the details!
Thanks a ton!
I guess you could get some larger bar stock and center drill it to slip over the pins and use it on either pin to make larger diameter bend or prevent the shorter bar from coming out.
Great idea! I think I'll probably do something like that. It would probably make the bend a little easier by acting as a roller also.
Pretty good project! Try C’Sinking the holes before tapping it will help with starting the tap. Go a
A little heavier on the backside then you have a weld prep already there!
Just made one this afternoon following your guide. Work’s absolutely perfectly and I feel like I’m some sort of fabrication God 😂 Thanks so much 👍
I'm seeing all kinds of possibilities here with your bender; Different diameter pins, additional holes in the main bar to change spacing, maybe a little flat bar bending.
Done it again, Tim! Easy to follow and no BS,
When drilling the base and slider, drill through TWO additional short lengths of bar, these can then be opened up to suit the studs and, by slipping them over the studs before bending, it will give a LOT more strength and reduce the spreading affect on the tool, especially with larger gauge rods or bar.
I make tap guides from an old bolt, where the shank is of course larger than the tap diameter. Hacksaw to 2/3 of tap length Chuck it in the lathe, face off any tensile grading embossing off the hex head down to half original head height then centre drill and drill through the appropriate diameter. The hex head flange now provides something for your fingers to press down upon when tapping.
i used two pins like these but i drilled two holes in the pins and slipped them onto a round bar just to keep them in line, then you have a completely adjustable distance between the two pins.
you put the two pins in the vice jaws with the holding bar under the jaw out the way, you can now use the pins on their own at any distance along the jaws or you can add slip over rounds to increase the diameter of the bends, i use the dies from a metal bender i got from ebay as a parts lot, you cam make your own by drilling out round stock.
i also made some flat bar fit around the dies as slip on covers to make up any special sized radius needed
you can make a bending bar with either a forked end or just leave it as an open bar to bend the stock.
a more versatile tool if you want to make larger radius, add some oxy acetelyne to make it very easy,
I like that you make the videos in a very natural way. Takes off a lot of pressure from who has to redo your projects :-)
5:35 Place a pipe sleeve over it to avoid slipping. Make some slide on sleeves.
I read that adding a small chamfer with countersink to the drilled hole will help with tapping. Has worked for me!
Thank you very much. Will rebuild this from high density plywood and necked screw to bend small rods. No more vice marks on my rods and tighter angles.
You work very conscientiously, it's a pleasure to find your videos, may God bless your life. in from Indonesia 🤝🇮🇩
I love it! Slick! Nice job!!! I’m definitely going to have to build me one. Thank you for the idea!!
I was trying to make a consistent Bender for some slingshots I make. It did not go well I think I'll give this a try. Love the shoulder bolt technique.
Nice, Tim, thanks! Suggestion: make the pulling bar as you described. Put one pin in the smaller bar (holder). Place the pulling bar over that pin, rotate it 45 degrees, then mark the location of the second pin off the protruding corner. That will get you as close as you can get to that second pin.
That would have been a perfect way to do it. I might remake the bottom piece like that instead. Thanks!
Are you referring to the corner of the pulling bar (good shot at 5:17)? Could even radius the end of the pulling bar to get it tighter.
@@torque2spec69 Correct. I do like your suggestion (to round the end of the pulling bar). That would allow the pins to be even closer. Good thinking!
You guys have Everything. There is little or nothing over here to promote Creativity. Hell ❗
I did the same, seen one for sale for well over $100. I just made it. I welded the round bar from the bottom. I may tap several hole locations later if I need. Cool video thanks.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
good quality taps are worth their weight. for common sizes like 1/4" 20tpi, it makes sense to get the best you can find if you do it frequently. I work for a manufacturing company and we tap holes using a pneumatic power tool (none of that back and forth). we use "Rapidtap" thread cutting fluid. i've tapped thousands of holes before breaking them sometimes.
I definitely should get a few really good ones in the common sizes. Thanks!
Rather than threading, especially since you welded it, drill the hole 1/64 or so bigger than your harden pin. Don't push the pin all the way through, leaving maybe 1/8 inch gap on the bottom, and then 'plug' weld it. You can weld around the top as well. Used to do this for metal plates to be put into a concrete slab for metal buildings and then the up rights would weld onto the plate. A very secure fit rather than just trying to weld anchor bolts onto the bottom of the metal plate.
The first thing I thought. If you are going to weld, skip the taping.Countersink the back, weld the bolt in, then cut it off flat. Shoulder bolts are nice, but any grade 8 bolt would work.
Tim, this was a great video. It was easy to follow. Thanks for including dimensions. You also gave a a great tip… use shoulder bolts. Thank You!
you should also have 2 pins coming out the bottom of the jig that will slot into your welding table.
use wax instead of oil for your taps. CRL sells it in tubes, i use it for saws also when cutting aluminum.
Thanks for the tip! I have some of that. It’s good stuff.
You are correct, tube wax is the way to go! Not just with taps but also running screws.
Good practice is to counter sunk the holes before tapping a thread. It will make it easier to start the thread and help preventing broken taps. The tap you are using should be turned backwards a 1/4 turn after every 1/2 to 3/4 turn this will also help with not breaking taps.
If you drill our some round-rod, the size of your studs, and drill amd tap a few more holes, you can move your pin and put various diameter donuts on the pin and bend different radiuses on the same bender. THANK YOU for sharing
You should definitely make a video explaining what you need installed or should be checked with the home breaker box in order to safely weld at home. I can't really find information on it now that I bought my first welder. This may be common knowledge or a stupid question to some but I'm no electrician and have no welding experience and it might be a good topic!
Your welder user manual should be specific about the circuit and over current breaker size required to power your welder. If you feel uncomfortable with it then call in a favor from an electrician buddy. There are so many welders out there with different power requirements it would be hard to do a detailed explanation.
Thanks. An easy way to start the tap is to use your drill press chuck. Drill your hole to the correct size and without removing or moving the piece, put your tap into the chuck and tighten it. Then using your hand only, (NO power!) lower the tap into hole and then hand turn the chuck until you can't turn it any more. Abit of pressure is kept on the tap using the drill press lever. This starts the thread square. I then lossen the chuck to release the tap and keeping the piece secure, I finish the thread by using the tap handle. I hope this helps.
Very good invention very simple and easy to do. Thanks for sharing
Simple bender, got to make one myself. thanks You can narrow the pins by adding a round cylinder over the pins, such as tubing, or, if you are lucky, a socket from a hex socket set.
Thank you!
Fantastic👍👍I brought a cheap 1 of these a while ago and it’s totally useless but now you’ve shown how to make a decent 1 I know what I’m going to do next week. Massive thanks 👍👍👍
Thanks!
I made one of these years ago. One additional point is to harden and temper the pins if you have the means. Otherwise they'll wear pretty quickly. Lubricating the moving pin probably helps too.
If you chamfer the holes prior to tapping the end result will be a little cleaner and you don’t have to deburr after. Plus helps the tap get started. Not always necessary but I’ve noticed it helps me.
Get yourself a Blacksmith Post Vise for work like that, they are heavy and mine has a large 1” thick steel plate on the floor that the mount is built off of and I can stand on the plate on the floor if I’m doing something that actually makes the vise start to move but that’s rare as my setup probably weighs like 400 pounds
After breaking a few taps I've found that reversing it a full turn works (almost) every time. Just make sure your hole is right size for the tap.
Tim, can you supply a link for the band saw from Amazon? Your how to videos are great! Thank you.
I looked and unfortunately, it's not showing as available right now. If you google around, there are a lot of similar options out there.
@@TimWelds thank you.
Hey Tim my name is Jim. I just wanted to tell you that i really appreciate the content you put out. Im new to welding. And i watch all your videos. Ive learned so much from your videos. You show people the right way to do things, you explain it very very well so newbies can understand what you are talking about. You arent super flashy with your content, but it is filmed and edited very professionally. You are humble and people who are just learning are naturally drawn to the way you teach. Thank you very much for what you do sir. Keep your hood down and keep burning rod.
P.S. i have a request. Could you maybe do a video this holiday season on so simple DIY welding projects that could be used for Christmas gifts. Like those metal roses ive seen. Idk just a thought.
I just went with a through hole and some Locktite 638 bearing retainer, it expands when it dries
I will make one of these. Didn't realise how much I needed one. Thanks.
Looks like a a handy tool, if you want to enjoy tapping first thing is throw that style tap in the garbage. Use a spiral point tap for through holes, and a spiral flute tap for blind holes. The spiral point tap pushes the chip forward, the spiral flute tap pulls it out of the hole. Also if you start tapping the hole with the tap in the chuck on the drill press, you can turn it by hand to start the tap straight, I have a bridgeport mill which is so nice because it can turn real slow, so most tapping I run the tap all the way through. But either way its awesome for starting the tap straight.
Nice fabrication..., sooo simple, and great piece of kit...
Thank you.
Thanks!
Another great one Tim….. I have holes in my welding table for 16 mm bolts….. I need to drill more holes closer together…… sure needed this tool last week…. Used the vise very carefully….. thanks buddy👍✅
Thanks Daniel!
Tim, if you want to start out your tap absolutely vertical, Chuck it up in your drill press, bring it down to the hole and start it by rotating the chuck, pressing down gently. Once the tap has started release the tap from the chuck and use your normal tap handle. Easy Peasy.
No knowing anything about welding because of you I am putting myself through welding class watching your video sir 🙏🏽 oh and I still suck at welding but it’s only been 2 weeks and maybe 6 hours of practice but should get the hang of stick welding so thank you 🙏🏽 for teaching
I made one similar but used bearings so it doesn't pinch and mark my Alluminum round bar
Max rate 1/2 inch stock?
Cool trick. Who needs a press fit when you can do a thread fit. Love it. Learn something new today and smashed that 👍 button!
Unlearn this and learn to make a press fit.
Nice tool. Here’s a tip to keep your bench mobile and stable - put locking swivels on one end and locking straight casters on the end where the vice is mounted. You should see an immediate improvement.
You can cut 1" pieces of steel, different diameters and drilled to one size bigger than the pin size. spread the pons further apart, and Drop that spacer onto the pin for more different bend radiuses. You've got a nice bender. Just add this to it and it will round it out to a fuller bender. (I'm a tool designer, retired, and in my seventies.)
If you drill a hole in two steps, the pilot drill should be no larger than about 20% of the finish hole size. This will save you from breaking the finish hole drill. A drill bit is nothing more than two rotating chisels. It is the most load you can put on the cutting edge to size up one size. All that load is going on the very edge instead of being spread out over most of the cutting edge. Hope this helps. Great to have a handy bending tool in the shop. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve been meaning to make one of these for years. Now that I have a great guide, I’m finally going to do it. Thanks again for another awesome video
Love this! I’ve been looking for an idea for how to make a ring bender (jewelry) - all the commercial products are cheaply made and expensive! Many of the diy ideas are way out of my skill set. This, I could at least borrow the physics of it as well as some of the great suggestions in the comments. Thanks all!
Show of hands ...how many of us have also come to the same realization of flawed logic due to lack of data and have no other explanation of Why we did what we did other than "it looked about right at the time" 😂 I know i have 😂 to err is human indeed! Bravo man, fantastic videos, very informative and to the point. detailed, respect to the people that recognize the value of passing the torch and providing a candle in the dark!! Thanks so much bravo to your work and your efforts.
Buy OSG 2 flute gun taps for tapping and Balax Thread Forming taps when you want to extrude the thread.
Thread forming is great for smaller threads because you don't snap so many.
As in all tapping, the lube is king and you're correct to use a dedicated fluid.
Make those two pins closer together ( in practice) by sliding a sleeve of tubing over the one.
Thanks! Great tips!
Cool, that would be useful making exhaust hangers. I need to bend 3/8 bar, Thanks for the idea.
Tim, I just watched the rod bender video. I tough if yo placed a sleeve over the welded pin you could get the tighter bends without slipping. Maude copper pipe would work.
4:35 Dude! That tap handle is glorious.
For cutting threads, the tap needs to be made of HSS (high speed steel). Most taps found in hardware stores and online are hardened tool steel, these are not meant for cutting threads, but “chasing” them, really just cleaning up threaded holes that are rusty or buggered up somehow. You will definitely break them, but less likely a HSS tap if its sharp and you follow the procedure like shown in video.
I've never seen a "tap guide", that's also a great tool. Thanks
Wouldn't it be OK to use the center punch to "upset" the threads in 3 or 4 places on the bottom side of the small plate after the protrudiing screw threads have been cut off rather than to weld them? That would work for the long bar as well. What is the maximum size round bar and flat bar that can be bent to 90 degrees or more using the 24-inch long handle without be musclesman? Thanks for the video.
Yeah, you could stake them in place instead of welding. 3/8” bar bends pretty well with that much leverage.
Well done for stating your work in mm mate. Nice job too. Namaste x
What is the determining factor, of when you should heat up the rod before bending?
I made something like that in the past Using dowel pins using a .001- and a .001+ reamers. Nice!
You have most of the equipment to do a press fit. You have a drill press and drill bits. The drill press is the expensive part to get a perpendicular hole. What you need is a reamer. Nice job with the build.
Exactly. Ream the hole and press in the pins.
I used this tool but, much larger, integrated into a workbench and powered by electric motor in a prefabricated concrete forms factory where prefab forms for bridges and large buildings were being made. That was back in nineties. I was plying rebars thick up to two inches.
An easy solution to close up your bend radius is to get some thin wall spacers that have an ID that is increasingly larger and slip them over the shoulder bolts. Once you have a set of several sized spacers you could redesign the dimension to increase the distance of the bolt centers to be more ideal for the desired bends you want to make.
best bench -vise bar bender project on the internet....there are some other good ones but they're mostly just copies of all the usual commercially available types ....with roller bearings, heavy pedestal, etc....NP if one lives in a junk yard ,or, has lots of costly hardware laying around..i don't. it would be cheaper and more effective for me to buy one from Harbor Freight .Thats why this super simple one is AWESOME
I was taught for tapping, 1/2 turn in, then back out by 1/4 turn. Always worked fine for me, but I’m not in a rush to put the threads in.
that's a really neat tap wrench. Can you tell me where you got it, or add it to the list of items used?
Great job on the video Tim perfect timing for my situation too
Thanks much
I like seeing someone make their own tools.
Do you think this will work for bending 3/8s stainless steel rod ? Or will those pins snap?
I love simple tools like this ! Thanks Tim👍
No problem!
Excellent Tim. I'm quite inspired. Lots of rain here at the moment. I need to build a cover as I do most my welding semi outdoor.
So once I have my semi outdoor setting in place or finer weather I will resume my welding projects.
Also I plan on purchasing a European proffesioa stick welder. I do have a mid range proffesional mig, tig stick welder. I also have a starter kit dc stick, welder which doesn't give a constant power and causes stops in my runs which is rather annoying.
I bought a heavy duty earth which may help a little although my engineer friend recently purchased a European stick welder which he is quite pleased with.
I'm also thinking of buying a 36 volt hikoki grinder which will be a nice assesory to my 1700 watt metabo grinder as it also has a speed setting for different applications. Once again, thanks for uploading. Appreciated.
Awesome bender. Simple and looks like it works great. Will try and make one. Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Thanks!