Tweed Guide - How To Wear Harris Tweeds, Donegal, Cheviot, Saxony...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- More about #tweed: gentl.mn/the-story-of-tweed
Tweed began as a handwoven fabric that was made on looms. The cloth was rough and thick and coarse. And the colors were earthy because they were inspired by nature.
#tweedguide #notsponsored
00:00 Introduction
00:42 The Origin of Tweed Name
Some people claim, it comes from the river tweed, which is in Scotland. Supposedly the cloth was first woven in the Tweed Valley. Other people claim, tweed is a twist of the Scottish word tweel.
Now, tweed is usually quite heavy and warm. But believe it or not, it used to be the high-performance fabric of its time. The English gentry was quick to adopt tweed as the preferred fabric for golfing, hunting or fishing under country estates.
Today, It is rarely used for sport activities anymore because it is quite insulating and even though wool is quite absorbent when it comes to sweat it is simply too warm for most people.
02:22 Tweed Named After Varieties of Sheep
Cheviot Tweed
Cheviot is a breed of white faced sheep that were first kept in a cheviot hills in Northumberland near the Scottish border. Generally, it is a larger and rougher type of tweed. It is quite coarse to the touch, such as this one.
Shetland Tweed
The opposite of cheviot in the sense that it is much softer, it is finer and usually have a looser weave.
03:35 Geographically-named Tweeds
Donegal Tweed
The name of Donegal is derived from the Irish county of Donegal and the characteristic is a tweed with knobs as you can see here. Rather than having a plain fabric, you see like orange or red, gray speckle, sometimes you have pink or green or something very outlandish but overall it creates a very soft look.
Saxony tweed
In the middle ages, it was forbidden for the Christian areas of Spain to export sheep.Generally, it is made from a Merino wool today and it is another wonderful sport coat or a jacket fabric.
05:46 Functionally-named Tweeds
Gamekeeper Tweed
The heavier fabric usually starting at 700g, about 24 oz. It is made for cold weathers, so it is quite insulating and hard wearing. It really got its name from the people who use it outside all day in cold harsh conditions.
Sporting Tweeds or Hunting Tweeds
Developed specifically for hunting and the idea was that one hand, that the colors are chosen so you blend in with the environment. On the other hand, a hunting tweed jacket has a shoulder patch just like this one, so you could easily hold your rifle and it wouldn’t wear out your shoulder fabric so quickly.
Thornproof Tweed
Made of two-ply wool yarns which are supposed to be woven tightly and as a consequence if you go through a thorn it may poke through, but is then self-repairing.
Supasax is a Saxony tweed used to be made by Bladen. It had been discontinued for a while. I think it is back now, though I really prefer the old stuff because it has a special color depth and wonderful patterns.
07:27 TWEED PATTERNS
Plain twill weave tweed. It has these ridges that are quite wide they can be a little finer, but this is typical for a plain twill weave.
Overcheck twill. It’s still a twill weave but not as pronounced as the one you can see here, but it has this overcheck.
Herringbone. Herringbone is named that way because it’s supposed to resemble fish bones. Basically, a herringbone is a twill weave, so it’s the same twill weave you can see here but the rows are adjusted to go up and down right next to each other giving you this herringbone pattern.
Barleycorn. it’s called that way because upon closer inspection it resembles a kernel of barley.
How do you actually wear a tweed? It's particularly well suited for fall, winter outfits, because otherwise, you simply overheat.
When not to wear tweed? If you are in a traditional white collar environment, tweed is not the fabric to wear. Stay away from formal events, especially evening events.
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Please consider doing a wardrobe tour. I don't know about anyone else but I would be very interested in seeing the sheer scale and grandeur of your wardrobe. Great video as always btw :D
Agreed.
Hear hear!
I imagine he has one of those motorized conveyors that you see at dry cleaners.
yes!
Well guys, it looks like Raphael has begun his wardrobe tour. This week: neckties.
if I cannot wear tweed, I do not go. tweed is what I like and life is too short. wonderful video.
I’ve recently bought a tweed jacket, and it is really good quality (better be, it’s a Gant blazer, I’d be concerned if it was shit.)
Its a very 'academic' fabric. Gives you a bit of prestige if you carry it well. Great video, very informative...
Thing about tweed is everyone can carry it well.
achaarpickler
You’re right! Decades ago a friend landed an academic job after switching from a loud, used card salesman-style jacket to an understated college prof style sport coat I sold to him for $5. You have to look the part!
I disagree.. that's your sentiment.
@@user-mn5ul9vo9m ..yeah but you ARE ALWAYS wrong ......just sayin-
Instablaster
At the end he states not to wear white as it contrasts with the casual nature of tweed but at 6:16 everyone is wearing white shirts...and they look good
I normally wear Harris Tweed hats, but I have to say I recently got a hat from 'Murphy Of Ireland' who from what I see, are a relatively small company. Their Donegal Tweed hats are hand made and absolutely beautiful. I bought a blue and grey herringbone and it fits in with about any blue or grey coat I have. I'm mentioning it here because they really do deserve some recognition -their product is excellent.
He is so wonderfully passionate about quality fabrics. Thanks for this most interesting video
Tweed is my Personal Favorite .... Nice to learn so many details about it...Thank you Raphael👍🏻😊
My first tweed Jacket is one that was passed down to me by my grandmother, that she got (but never wore of course, since it is a mens jacket) from my great grandfather
Now I know what I own, what I’ve seen, and what to keep an eye out for.
Too bad your channel was around years ago. I had a friend in grad school who was interviewing for college prof jobs, but wasn’t getting offers. I said it was because he didn’t look the part: he’d wear a loud, used car salesman-style sport coat. I sold him my tasteful, slightly too long, tweed sport coat for $5, what I’d paid 4 years before. Next interview, he got an offer.
The overcoat at 4:15 is my dream coat. I’ve been searching vintage stores in Minnesota forever for one but to no avail!
This is a great channel for classy gentlemen to procrastinate 😘
Tweed looks great while being functional. I love your enthusiasm in this video!
I am a professor and I wear tweed a lot myself as I have to walk from building to building a lot. I have a green tweed vest I like to pair with other off jackets in the winter. I live in the mountains of Tennessee, so it gets quite chilly outside and windy during the winter.
This was some time ago.
How delightful to listen to someone barely contain themselves,
as they talk with passion about their interest
Id like to see tweed more in America..
connery martin i agree. It’s rarely seen in the states and very hard to find full suits
@nick labian I believe he is referring to the lack of tweed jackets available in the States. And honestly, have manners, I believe one would come to the *Gentleman's* Gazette to, among many other things, understand the importance of chivalry.
Most of America is too hot for tweed in my opinion.
@@ronbarry6659 I live near an Irish import shop with them in there I love it
You see some guys in nyc wearing it. But yeah, not enough. I wish it was more common too
The chief characteristic of a twill isn't alternating colors, but the method of weaving where every weft thread passes under at least one warp thread, and then over at least 2 warp threads. The number of warp threads being crossed each time defines the type of twill. For instance a 2/2 twill has the weft pass under 2 warp threads, then over 2 warp threads. There is also an offset with each row that creates the fabric's pattern. Herringbone is made by reversing the direction of the twill (either horizontally or vertically, depending on how the loom is set up) at regular intervals.
The alternating diagonal patterns come from using different color threads for the warp and weft. If the same or similar colors are used, the pattern is much less noticeable.
You can weave a twill out of any kind of fiber. Chino, for instance, is cotton twill. But it was probably invented for wool.
Wait -- BOGEY is your example of an "old, stodgy gentleman"? WHAT? In his day he was the very essence of the cool and the fashionable! Not stodgy in the least!
I'm from Michigan and wanted to get into hunting so I think I found the right material for the job the Thorn Tweed sounds right up my alley for that
Thank God for tweed! It's such a versatile material, it's that semi-casual attire that you can wear in almost any situation, except work.
I think most people who work in an office setting can wear tweed. Most of us no longer work in the extremely formal corporate offices of 50 years ago.
The benefit of living in the Midwest is that tweed is formal attire at funerals and weddings. There is no city prejudice against country wear. Life is short, I would never wear black as a first choice. Great video. Consider a visit to the Cheviot Hills, they are wool heaven.
I love tweed. To me it's the perfect balance between dressy and casual. Wish it was cold enough to wear my herringbone tweed jacket year round!
I found a wonderfully fitting Harris Tweed jacket in a vintage shop for £30! It’s incredibly tough and very comfortable.
Respect sir for the amazing richness of information you consistently share!
4:50. Finally another guy that gets as excited as I do about tweed. I love this channel!
Excellent information on tweeds their origin how to wear and what to combine them with your videos are always fantastic and truly helpful I enjoy always the one-on-one interviews great job as always thanks!
Bought my first tweed waistcoat today. I love it. Thanks for making this video.
Absolutely fantastic tutorial. Never saw anything like this. Danke Sven 😉
Love Tweed, have a fair bit of Harris Tweed myself
What a stellar video, Raphael. Your knowledge and eloquent explanations are highly appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words, your support is appreciated.
Another great video. I've taken a liking to tweed and am lucky enough to thrift a few tweed odd jackets in my area. I have about three of them now, two of which are Harris Tweed. My most recent purchase is a Donegal one with beautiful flecks of blue throughout and it has both a reinforced shoulder pad and elbows as well as an action back and throat latch so it's my new favorite. They're a fantastic way of adding both color and texture to a wardrobe so it's less bland plus they're practical as well. Thanks so much for presenting a lot of information in a easy to digest way.
I love how you chose a pocket square wich has the colors of knobs on the fabric of your gray jacket. Great attention to detail.
Personally I think that tweed is a nice looking fabric, and I'd love to be able to buy a tweed garment someday.
Loved it, loved it, loved it! I definitely want to add a Tweed to my wardrobe.
I don’t own any waistcoats so I once wore a cardigan underneath a blazer. It actually looked pretty good
Great video. I can't imagine the amount of effort he puts into these. Keep it up!
Thank you for this extremely comprehensive analysis of Tweed.
This is really interesting style of transitions between scenes. This is a guide i hoped for... I love tweed and own a lot of tweed pices so totally in my alley
Next time I have a migraine I'm going to listen to this chaps voice as I find it very relaxing! Thanks for your advice. I'm in the process of ditching my t shirts and jeans and changing my wardrobe.
Impressive. The detail. History. Your passion is refreshing. Houndstooth tweed. Nice
Finally!! I found the video about my favorite fabric...
Nothing beats a good tweed jacket, thanks for the great video Rafael!
These videos are a wonderful resource. The explanations are invaluable in orienting someone in how to dress within social expectation and practical requirements. I do sometimes, however, disagree with the prescriptions made in the videos on a level of personal taste. For example, I wouldn't hesitate to wear a dark navy or charcoal tweed (maybe with a subtle overcheck) to a "city" event where a suit was expected (formal sensu lato), even in the evening, if I knew there was a potential for cold (I'm thinking of a local music venue, especially). But at the same time, I have to acknowledge that the advice to avoid wearing tweed at evening formal avoids any potential for faux pas and the embarrassment of underdressing. Great vids, all of them! A proper men's fashion compass.
Super super videos. So much to learn and so good that clothes are seen as investments for life and not just to be used for a season till the celebs move on and then they get binned.
I have a Harris Tweed Jacket. Not cheap either. £200.00.
So warm.
Thanks for the video Raphael.
I love my tweed outfits and it is nice to learn more about them this is an great video!
Thank you for the video. I love tweed and have Harris and Donegal jackets in browns, greens, and blues. Wonderful jackets for autumn and winter.
Waltski
These may be headed toward extinction, as climate change relegates autumn and winter to memories.
LOVE the Downton Abbey picture! Tweed always reminds me of Lord Grantham. Great video Sven!
Great video. I am looking to purchase my first tweed suit and now, after watching this video, am confident that a tweed jacket will be the correct purchase for me to complement my growing suit wardrobe. Thank you,
Ravi Peiris M.D.
A very informative article. Thank you for taking the time to compile and present this info!
this guides are actually quite interesting, very educative! Thanks for your videos!
Thanks for the education and history on Tweeds...off to find me a Harris Tweed flat cap for motoring in my vintage Model A roadster!
hey Sven, I absolutly love your channel! so inspiring!
+Patricia Matiss thanks, glad to hear that! Please share with like-minded people :)
Very informative, many thanks for sharing Sven!
Very informative. I'll buy some new shirts to match my three tweeds jackets. Thanks for sharing.
I used to have a Harris Tweed flat cap that I found by chance in a second hand store. I loved that thing and wish I hadn't lost it.
Love Harris Tweed. Two Herrinbones and one Houndstooth. Wears great with woolen, chinos, cords and of course jeans.
Extremely wonderful if you know what you wear. Very nice information to brag about (assuming that I can remember it).
Superb knowledgeable content. Love to wear my Herringbone Tweed.. Respect from Canada 🇨🇦
Excellently done on the different tweeds- thank you!
Excellent video with really good explanations and descriptions.
Superb job sharing so much rich & wonderful info about the rich & wonderful fabric called tweed! Subscribed!
A wealth of information. Unravelling my confusions. Thank you. M
Another great video- Thanks Sven!
Thanks,
I apreciate how you've explained about tweeds..... I didn't know before.
You've done an excelent work; also I'm just looking for a tweed jaket for the rigid winter season, your tips are very useful for me !!!
Thanks again.
Great video! delighted to see Donegal Tweed being featured :)
Really interesting and helpful video - thank you. I love tweed even though I live in a country where we can wear it for about 2 weeks of every year (too hot)!
2:23 I'm from Northumberland so it's marvellous to hear a part of 'me' mentioned by Raphael!
Excellent ! Just learned like 10 new things in a subject I hunger for. Thank you
I've just started to rock a tailored blue 3 piece tweed.. its lovely, I'm really happy with it. It did cost quite abit but it shows..
A wonderful flue Tweed sport coat was passed down to me a few years back, tailor made by Sir of Sweden. Suprisingly, it fits me like it was made for me.
I also found a vintage white and black herringbone Tweed sport coat at a second hand store for just under $10.
It’s interesting how a lot of the clothes developed by the working class found their way to the British Aristocracy later on.
always great info!!! thanks again for inspiring me to try clothing i hadnt yet considered
Gentleman's camouflage!
So glad I found your channel, great video! But I really wish to commend you on your SUPERB Tweed Guide on your website, which I followed your link and read the very in-depth, very lengthy but incredible article. One of the most in-depth, well researched and authoritative articles I read for years. Thank you for your work. A new keen follower.
Fascinating stuff! Cant beat tweed
This video is so interesting. I love Tweed.
right when I thought I had tweed down...another great video!
Anyone else get a grate Gatsby vibe from these videos?
This guy is like the coolest on the Internet! Buy, wear tweed! Is there such a thing as a "long" tweed coat... like an overcoat, but wearable like a "sports jacket"? I'm from South Texas. The winter here can be near-brutal! Right now it's 32 degrees F. We wear tweed with white shirts (yes) and jeans. Great look at the morning breakfast club.
In what way different to the one he models here?
@@RestoreTesting Sounds balmy to me up here in Canada.
OMG, 32 degrees! Quelle horreur! I am Canadian and don't know how you can possibly survive
Good show! My fave so far.
There's an incredible tweed factory in Edinburgh, Scotland near the castle. Well worth a look!
In England tweed is still quite often worn especially in the countryside
Nice to see Ingemar Albertsson in the video. I am a big fan of him as I am also Swedish
One of the best youtubers.
A close friend's husband (late 40's) who is English wheres a tweed blazer always, rain or shine, cold or hot. great guy.
Another great video. Have to say that I love tweed, just bought a Green Harris Tweed Jacket. I already owned a blue Donegal Tweed Jacket and I’m seriously considering a waistcoat or even a three-piece suit. These jackets are so warm and versatile and though quite expensive are actually great value for money.
Would you know of any place where I could get brown donegal tweed trousers?
Srijan Tandon yes...Peter Christian Gentleman’s outfitters in the U.K. have Brown Donegal Tweed Trousers. They have a very good website.
The graphics work on the logo of this video is excuisit. Perfect for a video like this.
Very informative and enjoyable video!
I recently picked up a 1948 Harris tweed two piece suit. I’m absolutely in love with it. The only problem with it is that it’s too warm to wear in most situations.
A few points. The weight. I have a bespoke Donegal tweed suit weighing in at the 600g+ mark. This is noticeably heavier than any other suit I have. While weight was toughed upon a couple of times I'd say weight is one of the most notable characteristics of tweed and makes it really suitable for late autumn, winter and maybe early spring wear.
A good heavy pair of moleskin trousers goes well with tweed. Again I have a bespoke pair of heavyweight moleskin trousers (again weighting in at the the 600g mark) that goes very well with tweed. Finally, expand on the non-Scottish and non-Irish tweeds. While I know of one mill that weaves tweed in England I've never heard of tweed been woven outside Britain and Ireland.
Awesome!!! I am still expecting a video guide to Black Tie Tuxedo 😁
Thanks! Very comprehensive!
just got an alan page tweed shooting coat, classic stuff
Why can't I like this video twice 😍
Amazing effort, cheers!
Living History! Great video
I hope you make another video regarding Harris Tweed, there has been significant developments online lately.
Great video, very informative!
I love tweed. Thanks for doing this video Sven!
We appreciate the support!
This is a great video, loads of Tweed in the UK so cheers! We pronounce Cheviot Chee-vee-ot over here.
Being locally born and living in the Cheviots it's actually pronounced shev-ee-ots the chev used as in chevron or Chevrolet
Really good - thanks for this.
Another nice video. Thank you !!!