I was told very recently by the branch manager of a Kwik Fit in Manchester that you can't fit winter tyres to an EV because "the torque will tear up the soft compound" and "you have to fit specific EV tyres to avoid invalidating your insurance". This was after picking up a roofing screw in one of my winter tyres whilst visiting family down there. He then tried to sell me two all season tyres instead. I left and managed to get a winter tyre from an independent specialist
That's a shame. I used to supply our 6 local Kwik fit branches in the area. They did have a handful of good staff but plenty who didn't know what they were talking about...
I drive V since 2013. Never an issue with fitting winter tyres. Also my current EV does not got special EV tyres when new. They smply do not exists in this tyre format. (20 inch wheels) But I did notice that my car uses a little more energy on the softer winter tyres...of coarse this difference was also noted o my previous ice cars when switching to the softer winter tyres. And torque on my wheels????? My right foot is the only important factor about torque on my wheels. Not the 605 nm the engines can produce due to the specs. (or the 225KW max power)
Interesting. We had a Kwik Fit mobile fitter come to fit tyres on our EV6 (company vehicle) and they just got whatever decent they had in the right size. In this case some Continentals. I'm pretty sure they're not "eco" or "EV" tyres on account of the vehicle suddenly having plenty of grip in the rear now!
Spot on. On my ICE, I had it for 14 years and 340.000km, exchanged tyres each 50.000km. On my BEV, have it for the last 11years, with 250.000km, I will travel the same 50.000km before having to exchange tyres. So yes, driver will be to blame for the travel distance with each set of tyres.
@@AnInterestedObserver yes 14x50.000km are indeed 700.000km, but who say I did 50.000km per year? I said I had the car for 14 years and exchanged tyres each 50.000km. So yes you can know how many tyres changes I made, if you divide the total travel distance 340.000km per 50.000km.
The most important job of a tyre is to hold the road, I always focus on the grip rating first, particularly in the wet (which is when you need it to perform most), after that everything else (ie. efficiency) is a bonus. I'd always rank an 'A' rated wet grip tyre above one with better efficiency but worse braking performance. I've found that there is some truth that you get what you pay for, branded tyres seem to last longer in my experience, but as you point out, the most significant factor is how you apply the accelerator & the brake more than anything else.
Depends how you drive. If you are a total flat-cap then grip ratings really don't matter much - they are all 'good enough', with relatively small differences. But yeah, each to their own.
The implication of EV specific tyres is that efficiency doesn't matter if you're burning fossil fuels, noise doesn't matter if you're making a racket anyway and tyre load ratings don't already need to match the vehicle weight. As for the argument about instant torque requiring special tyres, you can't get more instant torque than mechanical braking.
Correct - efficiency doesn't matter so much in an ICE car, because for example in my diesel X5, a full tank guarantees me about 700 miles range, pretty much regardless of weather, terrain etc because of the energy density of the fuel. EVs don't have this luxury and are impacted massively by weather, terrain etc. I can assure you my 6 cylinder engine never makes a racket, it's silky smooth and extremely quiet. If you drive smoothly and carefully as I do and everyone should, there is no reason why mechanical braking should cause any greater tyre wear than regenerative braking. Why do EV drivers assume ICE car drivers drive like boy racers in noisy, knackered old bangers?
@@sushiginger444 Whilst I appreciate the inherent balance of a straight six, it cannot compare in any way to an electric motor. Up until recently I owned a Mercedes S class for over 10- years with the OM648 diesel engine. Mercedes' version of the motor you have in your X5. In the S class, you get the best cabin isolation & sound deadening available on the road. Guess what? My Cheap Chinese MG5 is still quieter when driving at slow speeds. The S Class of course wins above about 40-50mph when road noise and wind noise take over, but no matter what you do, the ICE is inherently noisy compared with an electric motor.
Thank you! I didn't mention it in the video but my dad's first job out of school was as a tyre fitter. One of our family businesses is specialising in alloy wheels and tyres. I just hate to see people being ripped off unnecessarily!
Absolutely in agreement with you. I drive an EV for almost 3 years. The original factory fitted “EV” tires were swapped at 15 k, due to alignment not being made well from factory! I did put on Michelin CrossClimate 2, done 26 K mi with them and they are half dept thread still. It is so dangerous to drive in colder wet, icy environment with summer style tyres….
I think this video and most people are missing a couple of very important points. It seems for example your petrol VW Golf often uses a 205/55 R16 91V. This is the same tyre the ID4 uses - so point proved, we don't have to worry! However.. the Golf weighs 1361Kg and your ID4 1891Kg - half a tonne heavier. In other words, your safety margin for the Golf is much higher - and I mean safety in the broadest sense, not how much weight you can put in it. When I started riding motorcycles I bought the cheapest helmet I could find, because that's all I could afford. The salesman drew me aside and asked me if my life was worth the difference in price. I said that since the cheaper one was still legal, that was fine for me. He told me that it may be legal, but the more expensive ones had a much higher safety rating - in other words, I was more likely to survive certain types of crashes. I used to drive large vans, and the effects of weight and velocity in an accident are markedly different to a lighter car. Take my advice buy the highest rating tyre you can afford.
ID4 tyres are 235/55/19 101T (and upwards) completely different to a Golf. Regarding motorcycle helmets, what you say may have been true decades ago but holds no water these days. Check the Snell and Sharp testing results and you'll find that many budget helmets outperform their expensive counterparts. Very happy with my Nolan helmet here 👍
@@UpsideDownFork I stand corrected on the tyre size - although obviously the site I ref'd was wrong. However, whether modern motorcycle helmets are better now is not the point I was making. The principle of safety is to always over-buy, not under buy. Engineering - over engineer not stick at the average. The EV is not an 'average' weighted vehicle, it may become the new norm, but my point is to urge owners to treat it as different.
@@Dimpyz You make a good point. I'm not encouraging anyone to switch from a 101T to a 98T tyre. I appreciate that these weight ratings far exceed the normal use case for safety reasons. Insurance companies would also have something to say if you did so. EV's have better weight distribution than their ICE counterparts and as has been pointed out, the highest level of torque going through tyres is normally in heavy friction braking, rather than any acceleration. Now whether a £200 tyre is safer than a £100 tyre is a different matter. Premium Continental tyres are currently causing quite a stir due to their continual delamination in normal real world use. Grip level can be measured. Independent testing often shows that some premium tyres perform well whilst others perform poorly. Not all tyres are created equal and price is not an indicator of grip level or quality. The point of the video ultimately is so raise awareness that people should be informed about tyres. The numbers on the sidewall aren't scary or complicated and hopefully this goes to demystify the subject a little bit.
Some good information about how small the efficiency rating range is. After the minimum load and speed ratings, I've always prioritised wet grip, as even a small increase in stopping distance could be catastrophic, then I've looked at balancing price, efficiency and noise.
When I bought an EV 4 years ago, I was already used to running a set of Hankook all season tyres (living in rural Scotland, no way I'm using anything less) on my old Golf. So, when I picked up my ZS, I chucked the same (non-EV) model of tyres on. Wear rate was comparable to my old Golf, which for some people out there, was akin to heresy. I was a liar, I was a moron that didn't know anything about physics, someone even suggested I didn't have a car. Even when other people were agreeing their experiences were similar, we were still all wrong, because "everyone knows EVs smoke their tyres". Never underestimate the assuredness of the ignorant when experience doesn't suit the narrative.
I like your rants. Do your research and keep them coming! Agreed, our biggest cost in tires is the rate at which we seem to get punctures. As such the cost of the tire is way more important than the efficiency difference. Screws in the side wall etc, an unlucky run of issues. To be fair though, tire companies have never tried to upsell us an ‘EV’ tire.
Hi from New Zealand. I recently replaced the OEM fitted Michelin tyres on our Tesla Model 3 with Laufenn brand tyres which are less than half the cost and have similar road holding & braking performance. The Laufenns have higher rolling resistance and consume more kilowatts per mile, however the extra cost of charging over the life of the tyres is considerably less than the extra money I would have spent for "EV specific" Michelins.
I agree with your assessment that noise levels are the main issue we experience with tyres. It is quite hard to buy a completely duff tyre these days in terms of grip and safety, computer modelling of tread patterns, compounds and steel belts has made the modern tyre an accomplished piece of engineering.
Very informative video, thanks. My Skoda Enyaq iv 60 is speed limited to under 100mph so the the speed rating is irrelevant. What's important to me (other than the obvious size) is 1) wet grip 2) noise and wear That's always been the case for me, even on my ice cars. Ok, I'm now aware of load rating. I dont drive like a knob and so get get better than WLTP miles per kWh.
The important metric is XL (extra load) i have used Michelin crossclimates for the last six years on our Leaf, more expensive than some but superb year round in typical UK weather inculding snow, so there is no need to think about winter tyres if you live outside the North of scotland.
We have used crossclimates first generation are run flat can drive for 30 miles on punctured tyre enough to get you home or drive on smart motorway just a thought
I couldn’t agree more. I have a 21 Tesla Model 3 Long Range. The OEM factory tyres (Hankook Venus Evo 3) were lasting about 20k kms and were ok. I replaced them with Pirelli P Zero T0 (for EV’s) way better grip, heaps quieter, a lot more expensive but lasted twice as long. I turned my Tesla into an overlander. I put in a 2” lift kit, changed the factory 19” wheels for aftermarket 18” and put on Yokohama Geolandar G015 All Terrain tyres. Definitely not for EV’s. Guess what? I measured with a decimal measure app on the Perelli’s and the Yokohamas and they’re within 1db so they sound the same and my economy is also identical. (The losses with the lift kit were gained by going down to an 18” wheel).
Yep , well done for covering this. Ive had a couple of Zoes in the past and I found the factory fitted Michelins really prone to pot hole damage. My local tyre garage fitted standard Kumho's of the right spec and they were really solid tyres plus half the price of the Michelins.
When I bought my 3yr old MG5 it had the original tyres and barely any wear on them (They had done 8000 miles in three years). One of the fronts had sidewall damage that was unnacceptable, so I insisted that tyre was replaced. One of the others was starting to crack too from lack of use, so they did those as a pair. The cheap ones they have put on are already rapidly losing tread. The original ones though are holding up perfectly fine, still showing virtually no wear. So LIFESPAN of the tyres is more important to me. I'm not bothered at all by how much 'fuel' (or energy) I'll burn with a C rated tyre vs an A rated tyre. What does bother me though is whether the tyres will last me one ir two years or will keep going for six years before they need replacing. With 'fuel' costing so much less on the EV, the cost of the tyre replacement itself is now much more important than the cost of the 'fuel' economy they will deliver. The tyre ratings system really doesn't give much help to determine whether you're looking at a tyre that will hold together for years and years vs a tyre that will start shedding rubber at the slightest hint of a bend in the road.
You can get a good gauge of the longevity by looking at the tread wear rating. Unfortunately a lot of the resellers do not publish this info and you'll have to go looking directly with the manufacturer. We are seeing more and more tyres that need replacing due to rubber perishing and either cracking which results in an unsafe tyre and MOT failure or even worse and delamination. Personally, I'm more worried by an old tyre compared to a newer tyre with lower tread. That's just my personal experience of working in the motor trade. The oils in the rubber compound are not stable enough to resist the heat cycles and UV damage for many years. This is a long way of saying that there needs to be a balancing act between mileage and age.
@@UpsideDownFork Someone who drives 5000 miles a year will look different to aging an max miles with a tyre than someone driving 20000 miles a year. With 5000 miles the loss of strength due to aging is more important thatn the loss of thread due to driving. With 20000 miles a tyre will not even last (much) more than 3 years. Whne driving carefully. No need to pay much attention to wearing out the rubber.
I have an MG5 long range, 22 plate, will need to replace them in the next year before its first MOT, what medium cost option today with wear and rolling resistance for efficiency a priority would you suggest?
I always buy on efficiency first, wear second but have also been doing the sums Mr Fork points out to check that the price is not excessive. I don't mind a small premium because reduced emissions is always a bonus, but often you can get very good tyres without spending a fortune. This all got a great deal easier once all tyres started coming with ratings - back in the 1990s it was incredibly hard to find out efficiency data for most tyres.
Timely video. Our Kona EV front tyres are down to 3.5mm tread depth. The rears are at 6.5mm! My wife (main driver) drives it in Normal mode & is no boy racer (currently averaging 4.3m/kW - no heat pump). Even so it is very easy to spin up the front tyres in damp conditions. There also seems to be a very slow leak on the front right tyre (5psi drop / week) which I suspect is a tyre pressure monitoring valve issue because there are no visible signs of damage, nails etc to the tyre itself (215/55/R17 94V). So, even though there's some life in the front tyres I think it's time to get some new boots. A pair of Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance 2 are on the cards which are 4dBA quieter than the OEM's while still having high rating for efficiency & wet weather performance.
Always worth taking the valve cap off and putting some soapy water on the end of the valve to see if it's leaking from the valve stem. Not unusual for them to be slightly loose.
Got two new rear tyres on my 3 year old 36000 miles Ioniq 5. The Ev ones we're cheaper than "regular" ones, from a Hyundai dealer! Would it not make more sense to compare weight of same model Ev/Ice, so say e2008 vs 2008?
I worked with a tyre engineer, and with a "2 wheel engineer" who specialised in efficiency. According to them EV tyres differ in foam insert only (to dampen road noise). And efficiency is such a nuanced topic that it cannot be summed up in one number rating. Your tyre pressure at different temperatures (wet differs from dry too btw) and different weight loads will lose or gain efficiency. It is complicated, but above 60 kmh, your rolling resistance plays a much smaller role than air resistance anyhow.
Thanks. I agree that the labelling system is oversimplified to aid understanding by all. The controlled testing of the tyres also differs from real world use, just like WLTP testing for example. Also, not all EV tyres have foam, or at least 2 years ago didn't.
What a brilliant piece of work! Well done 👍 I’ve changed Tyres on my ID3 and without fail they will tell me I must have EV specific tyres. Can I draw the conclusion that I can safely ignore that and choose any tyres as long as they are the correct size?
What I know about tyres can be written on the back of a postage stamp. When replacing tyres, I've looked at the specs and just chosen whatever's cheapest that matches the original tyre specifications with the exception that I might have allowed a new tyre to be slightly louder than original but only by about 1dB which you really wouldn't notice. I always thought the "EV" tyre thing was marketing hype; the noise thing is to me the only thing that's relevant. For anyone on a PCP, I've handed a car back with replacement non-EV tyres on it and they didn't bat an eyelid.
In your EU spreadsheet example, the gained efficiency was 4% between C and A tyres. In an EV with a range of 400km (yes, from a metric country), this translates to an extra 16km of range which may be just what you need to get you to the next charger (also from a country that could use more EV infrastructure). Though you are correct, so much of this can be gained by judicious use of the right foot. As for me, I always go for the dynamic performance first when choosing tyres. Noise may suddenly become more of a consideration that I am about to take delivery of my first BEV but also mindful that most people cannot detect a change in volume that is less than 3dB.
For my twizy, with a range today of 42km, I arrived home with just 0 km left in the battery. I could go for tires with better efficiency right about now, as temperature will drop more. Quadtrac 5 has a D Rating, but it's not like there's an A or B available. Can I have 4% extra range please? With low temperature and a worn battery I kinda need it.
Great video with lots of useful information. My tyre fitter hates EV tyres as he says the side walls are so thin they are difficult to work with. He recons if you get a puncture it can't be repaired and they are only made that way to save weight. The bottom line is if you want to go further in your EV then drive slower and accelerate more gently. My MG5 is currently getting just over 3 miles per kWh (indicated) but I'm not trying to drive carefully when doing local journeys, if I need to do a longer journey where the range is in doubt I'll slow down a bit. Have you heard the recent interview with the CEO of Enso on Everything electric podcast? Very interesting but the most interesting bit was the profitability of the tyre industry is better than Apples.
I replaced the summer Continental OE tyres on my ID 3 with Michelin Cross Climate 2's, not EV specific. Oddly, the economy has not tanked or even degraded at all and the tyres are way better than the OE Continentals.
Good video. The other thing that doesn't usually get mentioned is tread depth when new. For many people they will replace the tyres at 3mm so if you buy tyres that only have 7.2mm new you are only getting 4.2mm of use. If you buy one with 8.8mm then you are getting 5.8mm of use. Doesn't sound that much but as a percentage it's quite a lot.
There's probably a bigger variation in most of the parameters if the tyre is under-inflated. The fact remains, however, that tyre costs will generally be higher for heavier vehicles, and that if two vehicles run the same tyres, the heavier one will cause faster wear on those tyres. There's an exception to tyre costs, however. I can buy replacement tyres for my minivan (people carrier) very cheaply, since they are unfashionably high profile, with a humble speed rating - P215 70R15.
MG ev5 Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 2 tyres 45 thousand miles to the rear, 35 thousand miles on the front. Silver medal winners Auto Taxi driver, Great channel
Noise ratings are measured outside on a drive by. People who have switched from run flat to non run flat tyres I’ll attest to the fact that inside the car non run flats are the hosted regardless of noise ratings. This is because the stiffer side walls transmit vibrations through the body of the car than tyres with softer side walls. This is why non run flats are better for noise and comfort than run flats. There are also technologies that make tyres produce less roar and are obviously of greater benefit on very quiet vehicles like EVs and rolls Royce.
Thanks for this video, it proves what I suspected for the past 2 years - the tyre companies use FUD in a fantastically effective way, and they are all in on it! I could quite literally buy a brand new set of budget tyres for my wife's Leaf if I was more clever about this and did not waste such a lot of money buying "EV-rated" tyres. It seems that the joke is on me this time, thank you very much for the insight.
My take on it usvthst if you stick to the original fit your usage should deliver the kw consumption they tested however the speed rating and load are the defining characteristics to adhere to.
Thank you I have been telling people the thing here in Australia Tesla will pick the car if you have a flat and change the tyre at the service centre with a ev tyre
For noise or other criteria the depth of tread is adjusted meaning that the tyre life distance can be different. This should be part of the calculation.
I'm more interested in the grip and breaking performance of the tyre closely followed noise levels. I only do about 3k miles a year and very few of those will be long distance. If I need to recharge a little sooner no big deal but if the I need to stop 1m sooner than I can on a cheap tyre that can be really costly.
Thanks. Most new tyres far exceed the requirements for tyre grip levels. Even budget tyres of today often outperform tyres from 15 years ago in this area. But if you've got the budget for it, go for some super grippy tyres and worry no more 👍
Possibly, you know and I know insurance companies will get out of paying if they can. Had a mate the bought a car with a tiny rear boot spoiler that wasn't standard it looked standard but apparently was not insurance refused and they charged him £300 to add it as was considered non standard..... A small bit of plastic worth probably £50 max
Yes, this is an insurance issue but for MOST vehicles, you will never be able to find tyres that are under the OE specification. 99% of the time, replacement tyres far exceed the minimum requirements.
I'm pretty sure that having the correct tyre pressure for your load is far more important for efficiency and wear than anything else . I don't know why checking tyre pressure is so overlooked.
Added comment on weight rating, most EV cars are evenly distributed weight front/rear , while most ICE cars have the engine and gear box at the front - putting a lot more weight at the front.
I've been thinking about tyres lately. I'm over the initial rush of always trying to beat ICE cars away from the lights in my Leaf and now find myself plodding along with one eye on the efficiency display as I drive to Tescos! Good to know I shouldn't need to spend a small fortune on 'Special' EV-rated tyres.I Thank you. 😀
You can get a good gauge of this by looking at the tread wear rating. Unfortunately a lot of the resellers do not publish this info and you'll have to go looking directly with the manufacturer.
@ having seen a Mod S take off on sheet ice being filmed with a high speed camera on the tyre / ice( road?) interface it certainly sold me on it and yet it’s never mentioned in all that’s been written/ video’d on Tesla stuff🤔
@@UpsideDownFork Reason why they put nitrogen is because it's dry. No humidity. But you need to fill it, empty it at least twice to get at least 95% nitrogen, Problem with humidity is that it will make the tire pressure change with temperature significantly. And most garage compressors use normal air, and if the weather is really damp, it will introduce more humidity in your tires, This is why planes are using nitrogen, because they are subject to large variations in temperature. If you get to 30,000 ft, temperature is minus 40 and the plane stays there for many hours. So, when they land, they need to have the right pressure in the tires. Personnally, I use normal air, but I check the pressure more frequently. I have a big compressor in my basement...
@pierreforget3357 true. All commercial garages will use a water trap on the compressor outlet. They do vary in quality but even a basic Sealey/Draper unit will be good enough for what we need in road tyres. Perhaps driving on the autobahn is different as I know from people who work in Motorsport of the critical importance in this area. As a motorcyclist, I check my tyres before every ride and make sure they are exact when cold 👍
As with everything with driving the biggest statistical factor in driving efficiency is the ability and driving style of the person in the driving seat. Common sense prevails for an EV: ~ Drive more economically ~ Don't over accellerate ~ Crank down the heating and air con a notch ~ Wear an extra layer in the cold weather. It isn't rocket science !
We have had extra load and reinforced van tyres on the market for years. EV tyres are no different in their construction, Other they are designed to be slightly quieter and faster. It’s just hype for manufactures and retailers to make more profit.
From the title I was expecting this video to be some kind of reaction to the Fully Charged podcast with this Enso EV tyre manufacturer. It was focussed on the sustainability, pollution and end of life for tyres.
My eGolf uses regular tires. Given it is November I have my snow set on. I get less range with them. They have an aggressive tread for snow and ice. No difference it being a EV.
I think the biggest issue with tyres on an EV is durability, wear resistance and especially resistance to cracking. We've a 3 year old VW ID3 10000 miles and all four tyres are badly cracked.
What does the vehicle being a ev have to do with cracking? Tires crack because of age and under inflation, mostly. Given they are not 20 year old tires , under in inflation is most likely the cause.
@@UpsideDownFork Yip Continentals. Getting new tires fitted so that the car is safe for my wife over the winter. Also got an advisory for front disks corrosion, regen breaking. Thankfully the calipers aren't seized. The ID3 is going in for a new 2024 Dacia Duster in March, full petrol hybrid, actually a lovely car. Saving on fuel is one thing but I think capital outlay is a bigger issue. The Duster is one of the cheapest on the market, I've had 6 new Dacia's to date & no issues and they keep their price well. The cheaper I can buy a car the better, I think for most folkies that is the attitude now, they are for getting from A to B.
@@johnwatt1911 I called it because Continentals have been having these issues for about 10 years now. It's very well known in the Mercedes Benz circles in which I work. EV or not makes no difference. I'm surprised there is not some massive class action against them really.
Tbh....I am on winter season 2 on cheap Chinese tires...I drive 1000k per month just for work no difference to expensive brand named...I can afford more newer tires more often as opposed to expensive ones I try to squeeze very mile out of them
I have heard that the EV specific tyres should be removed and shoved in the shed to be replaced with ICE car tyres to give you the handling that matches the performance of the EV.
I shouldn't comment on this as there are many variables. Anyone who has had a car with run flat tyres and switched to normal tyres will know the feeling.
I watch numerous videos from antis to shills. There was a bit of bashing about tyre wear, but it went quiet a couple months back. Perhaps with more research, the antis have found there's no real difference on that specific part. It still does not excuse some misinformation I see from the shills though!
I'll respectfully disagree. I put a set of nokias on my ev and the miles per kwh went down ~7% after 10k miles of the same route for a year. Rolling resistance does play a role in miles/kwh.
Tyre companies push tyres that will wear quicker as they want you to buy them more often. Getting price and longevity as well as performance in the wet are ones I look at. Often I find a price point and compare within that.
@@Jaw0lfI’m talking about tread ware rating. It is a number on the side of tires, for instance it will say something like tread ware 200- which is low, or 460- which is high. The higher the number, the longer they will last.
@@stevemcgowen Yes they do but retailers don't need to show/publish them so you will have to enquire directly with the manufacturer for treadwear ratings.
Our e-golf has gotten first new tyres after what ? 64.000 km on all season tyres , but only on the front axle have been replaced, rear ones are sill good and will last more than 80000 km or even 90.000 km. 4 years 5 months old. Average consumption about 16 kWh. 95% of charging has happened at home with a 3 kW charger. Battery any good ? Well, still 95% of capacity which means the range and capacity has not changed since the first year. British tyre prices are terrible high compared to german ones.
Appreciate the research which went into this but I found this video a little negative. It would have been nice to consider how the additional range via the efficency boost compares with the additional cost of ev specific tyres. Chances are there is a fair bit of marketing in play, but anything which can boost range by 1 or 2% might be worth considering depending on the maths.
I agree - except for Hyundai Kona original equipment Nexen tyres which are garbage ! I thought there was something deficient with the drivetrain of Kona EVs. Even moderate acceleration in dry conditions would produce unruly wheel spin and consequent instability. I finally got to the end of these awful tyres and replaced them with some very reasonable Goodyear Efficiencygrip items. My car is transformed ! Even enthusiastic acceleration in the wet doesn't provoke wheel spin. The car is now stable and smooth. Why would Hyundai compromise an excellent car with such rubbish tyres ?
"You need to have electric car tyres because we need to charge a premium and increase our profits". Just like why car manufacturers switched to SUVs. Meanhwile China is producing cheap EVs, as well as high end ones.
I find TH-camrs that do reviews of things don't help. A lot of them get items gifted for a review and can afford the higher price. If you don't get the top of the range branded job you're a danger on the road
Buy cheap, buy twice. I always buy premium tyres with good reviews. As I drive around 20k a year they definitely last longer than budgets and considering they are the most important part of the car that keeps it in contact with the road I ain't scrimping on cheap Taiwanese Wankocks 😂
Wow, how many aspects did you miss in what's presented. Load is rated to what the tyre can handle in weight, not how well it handles the weight of the vehicle which is what the manufacturers trying to point out. Speed ratings are what the tyre can handle, and this is normally based on what the vehicle is capable of rather than the speed what you and I will drive. Insurance companies and regulations typically demand this on vehicles. Noise. Small improvements can make a big difference, especially with EVs. Efficiency. Again, while all manufacturers typically drive innovation in efficiency for tyres, and with EVs it is important. Regardless of my foot weight on the pedal is irrelevant. My foot is the same regardless of car, so more efficient tyres do help, albeit a small amount. Combine all these metrics and there is a difference. Is it worth it? Who knows. That's up to the consumer.
Hmmm vicar on the way to church.... Have they finished writing their sermon or not? That will have a significant affect on the weight of their right foot 😂
Great info thanks. I have had my BEV now for 3.5years & 30k miles and am needing to change them so very handy. As everyone seems to be saying noise is the biggest driver and I always go for the quietest. Big issue for me is do I want to go to cross climate or not.
This may help you, I have been driving for 40 years and over the last 6yrs owning different Evs, a Leaf and eNiro. I live in the Midlands so not the deep snow of up-north but then occasionally we will encounter bad weather. Who knows what is about to arrive! So I always buy sets of All Season tyres, I have done this over the last 15yrs and I can confirm that they have always returned the same longevity as a summer tyre (last set changed at almost 40k miles- 3 mm still left) and are no different in noise levels. Being All Season they stay on all year - no changing wheels twice a year. Basically the same price as summer tyres much better and safer in the wet and I have on innumerable occasions sailed past 4WDs stuck in the snow obviously shod with summer tyres. Plenty of evidence on TH-cam of 2WD on all-season being better than a 4WD on summers. So my advice would be to go with the quietest dB AS tyre but a reputable brand that you can trust. My current tyres are the Goodyear Vector 4Season Gen-3. An absolutely great tyre. Whilst CrossClimate are an excellent choice they are expensive but if that is within budget go with them. I will never buy Summer tyres again. Hope this helps.
@@peterwilliams2580 Up north here. When I was working and driving 30k a year I use to put cross climates on and change them every year in Sept. Now retired and only doing 8k a year. So it has taken me 3.5years to get to the point of changing the tyres. When my car was in for service the loan car came with cross climates on and did not feel as grippy. Hence my problem. Yes I know what the difference is like in snow; but how much will I see. Car has "off road mode" which locks the diffs and I was very surprised how good the traction was. Obviously brakes would be tricky.
@@ians3328 I don't think you will go wrong with Cross Climates but I understand that the current Best All Season is the new Pirelli Cinturato All Season SF3. So if you think that Cross Climates have had their day check out the new Pirelli as the stats and reviews are amazing.
I was told very recently by the branch manager of a Kwik Fit in Manchester that you can't fit winter tyres to an EV because "the torque will tear up the soft compound" and "you have to fit specific EV tyres to avoid invalidating your insurance". This was after picking up a roofing screw in one of my winter tyres whilst visiting family down there. He then tried to sell me two all season tyres instead. I left and managed to get a winter tyre from an independent specialist
That's a shame. I used to supply our 6 local Kwik fit branches in the area. They did have a handful of good staff but plenty who didn't know what they were talking about...
@UpsideDownFork I think he was just trying to sell me two tyres instead of one, knowing I was needing a quick solution.
LOL. That branch manager should try talking to a Norwegian.
I drive V since 2013. Never an issue with fitting winter tyres.
Also my current EV does not got special EV tyres when new.
They smply do not exists in this tyre format. (20 inch wheels)
But I did notice that my car uses a little more energy on the softer winter tyres...of coarse this difference was also noted o my previous ice cars when switching to the softer winter tyres.
And torque on my wheels?????
My right foot is the only important factor about torque on my wheels. Not the 605 nm the engines can produce due to the specs. (or the 225KW max power)
Interesting. We had a Kwik Fit mobile fitter come to fit tyres on our EV6 (company vehicle) and they just got whatever decent they had in the right size. In this case some Continentals.
I'm pretty sure they're not "eco" or "EV" tyres on account of the vehicle suddenly having plenty of grip in the rear now!
Spot on. On my ICE, I had it for 14 years and 340.000km, exchanged tyres each 50.000km. On my BEV, have it for the last 11years, with 250.000km, I will travel the same 50.000km before having to exchange tyres. So yes, driver will be to blame for the travel distance with each set of tyres.
@@MiguelDomingues-i8z thanks for commenting
14 years x 50,000=700,000. What's with the 340,000?
@@AnInterestedObserver yes 14x50.000km are indeed 700.000km, but who say I did 50.000km per year? I said I had the car for 14 years and exchanged tyres each 50.000km. So yes you can know how many tyres changes I made, if you divide the total travel distance 340.000km per 50.000km.
@MiguelDomingues-i8z Understood. Thanks for the clarification.
The most important job of a tyre is to hold the road, I always focus on the grip rating first, particularly in the wet (which is when you need it to perform most), after that everything else (ie. efficiency) is a bonus. I'd always rank an 'A' rated wet grip tyre above one with better efficiency but worse braking performance. I've found that there is some truth that you get what you pay for, branded tyres seem to last longer in my experience, but as you point out, the most significant factor is how you apply the accelerator & the brake more than anything else.
@@Travel_Day_Dreams thanks for commenting 👍
Depends how you drive. If you are a total flat-cap then grip ratings really don't matter much - they are all 'good enough', with relatively small differences. But yeah, each to their own.
Thanks for a great no nonsense look at tyers
No problem 👍
The implication of EV specific tyres is that efficiency doesn't matter if you're burning fossil fuels, noise doesn't matter if you're making a racket anyway and tyre load ratings don't already need to match the vehicle weight. As for the argument about instant torque requiring special tyres, you can't get more instant torque than mechanical braking.
Perfect. This should be the TLDR to this video!
Correct - efficiency doesn't matter so much in an ICE car, because for example in my diesel X5, a full tank guarantees me about 700 miles range, pretty much regardless of weather, terrain etc because of the energy density of the fuel. EVs don't have this luxury and are impacted massively by weather, terrain etc. I can assure you my 6 cylinder engine never makes a racket, it's silky smooth and extremely quiet. If you drive smoothly and carefully as I do and everyone should, there is no reason why mechanical braking should cause any greater tyre wear than regenerative braking. Why do EV drivers assume ICE car drivers drive like boy racers in noisy, knackered old bangers?
@@sushiginger444 Whilst I appreciate the inherent balance of a straight six, it cannot compare in any way to an electric motor.
Up until recently I owned a Mercedes S class for over 10- years with the OM648 diesel engine. Mercedes' version of the motor you have in your X5. In the S class, you get the best cabin isolation & sound deadening available on the road.
Guess what? My Cheap Chinese MG5 is still quieter when driving at slow speeds. The S Class of course wins above about 40-50mph when road noise and wind noise take over, but no matter what you do, the ICE is inherently noisy compared with an electric motor.
Great video. Clear & easy to follow. Good, unbiased information.
Just subscribed 👍
Thank you!
I didn't mention it in the video but my dad's first job out of school was as a tyre fitter.
One of our family businesses is specialising in alloy wheels and tyres.
I just hate to see people being ripped off unnecessarily!
Absolutely in agreement with you.
I drive an EV for almost 3 years. The original factory fitted “EV” tires were swapped at 15 k, due to alignment not being made well from factory!
I did put on Michelin CrossClimate 2, done 26 K mi with them and they are half dept thread still.
It is so dangerous to drive in colder wet, icy environment with summer style tyres….
Thanks for commenting!
I think this video and most people are missing a couple of very important points. It seems for example your petrol VW Golf often uses a 205/55 R16 91V. This is the same tyre the ID4 uses - so point proved, we don't have to worry!
However.. the Golf weighs 1361Kg and your ID4 1891Kg - half a tonne heavier. In other words, your safety margin for the Golf is much higher - and I mean safety in the broadest sense, not how much weight you can put in it.
When I started riding motorcycles I bought the cheapest helmet I could find, because that's all I could afford. The salesman drew me aside and asked me if my life was worth the difference in price. I said that since the cheaper one was still legal, that was fine for me. He told me that it may be legal, but the more expensive ones had a much higher safety rating - in other words, I was more likely to survive certain types of crashes. I used to drive large vans, and the effects of weight and velocity in an accident are markedly different to a lighter car. Take my advice buy the highest rating tyre you can afford.
ID4 tyres are 235/55/19 101T (and upwards) completely different to a Golf.
Regarding motorcycle helmets, what you say may have been true decades ago but holds no water these days.
Check the Snell and Sharp testing results and you'll find that many budget helmets outperform their expensive counterparts.
Very happy with my Nolan helmet here 👍
@@UpsideDownFork I stand corrected on the tyre size - although obviously the site I ref'd was wrong. However, whether modern motorcycle helmets are better now is not the point I was making. The principle of safety is to always over-buy, not under buy. Engineering - over engineer not stick at the average. The EV is not an 'average' weighted vehicle, it may become the new norm, but my point is to urge owners to treat it as different.
@@Dimpyz You make a good point.
I'm not encouraging anyone to switch from a 101T to a 98T tyre. I appreciate that these weight ratings far exceed the normal use case for safety reasons. Insurance companies would also have something to say if you did so.
EV's have better weight distribution than their ICE counterparts and as has been pointed out, the highest level of torque going through tyres is normally in heavy friction braking, rather than any acceleration.
Now whether a £200 tyre is safer than a £100 tyre is a different matter. Premium Continental tyres are currently causing quite a stir due to their continual delamination in normal real world use.
Grip level can be measured. Independent testing often shows that some premium tyres perform well whilst others perform poorly. Not all tyres are created equal and price is not an indicator of grip level or quality.
The point of the video ultimately is so raise awareness that people should be informed about tyres. The numbers on the sidewall aren't scary or complicated and hopefully this goes to demystify the subject a little bit.
Some good information about how small the efficiency rating range is. After the minimum load and speed ratings, I've always prioritised wet grip, as even a small increase in stopping distance could be catastrophic, then I've looked at balancing price, efficiency and noise.
Wise approach!
which weight rating do you recommend for 4 small cars loaded with gold bars in Italy?
Oh, I'd go with commercial grade tyres if you can, but you'll struggle at only 10 inches.
Do'nt know but they would be 145/10s
@@ekolekol4389 Try Fintyre , they’re based in Milan .
Depends... ICE or BEV? 😁
When I bought an EV 4 years ago, I was already used to running a set of Hankook all season tyres (living in rural Scotland, no way I'm using anything less) on my old Golf.
So, when I picked up my ZS, I chucked the same (non-EV) model of tyres on.
Wear rate was comparable to my old Golf, which for some people out there, was akin to heresy. I was a liar, I was a moron that didn't know anything about physics, someone even suggested I didn't have a car. Even when other people were agreeing their experiences were similar, we were still all wrong, because "everyone knows EVs smoke their tyres".
Never underestimate the assuredness of the ignorant when experience doesn't suit the narrative.
@@mcdon2401 👍
Good stuff! I’ve learnt a few things from your very informative video, thanks. Keep up the good work.
@@danielbarton1694 thanks for your support 👍
I like your rants. Do your research and keep them coming! Agreed, our biggest cost in tires is the rate at which we seem to get punctures. As such the cost of the tire is way more important than the efficiency difference. Screws in the side wall etc, an unlucky run of issues. To be fair though, tire companies have never tried to upsell us an ‘EV’ tire.
Thanks for commenting!
The amount of screws I pick up walking the dog - Dropped out from trade(persons) white van, when they open the doors… 😠
This is great info UDF! thank you. Think I will be needing to replace some tyres soon so will reference this and ignore the FUD.
Great 👍
Hi from New Zealand. I recently replaced the OEM fitted Michelin tyres on our Tesla Model 3 with Laufenn brand tyres which are less than half the cost and have similar road holding & braking performance. The Laufenns have higher rolling resistance and consume more kilowatts per mile, however the extra cost of charging over the life of the tyres is considerably less than the extra money I would have spent for "EV specific" Michelins.
Thanks for sharing
I agree with your assessment that noise levels are the main issue we experience with tyres. It is quite hard to buy a completely duff tyre these days in terms of grip and safety, computer modelling of tread patterns, compounds and steel belts has made the modern tyre an accomplished piece of engineering.
👍
Thanks, great information.
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative video, thanks.
My Skoda Enyaq iv 60 is speed limited to under 100mph so the the speed rating is irrelevant.
What's important to me (other than the obvious size) is
1) wet grip
2) noise and wear
That's always been the case for me, even on my ice cars.
Ok, I'm now aware of load rating.
I dont drive like a knob and so get get better than WLTP miles per kWh.
Thanks for commenting!
The important metric is XL (extra load) i have used Michelin crossclimates for the last six years on our Leaf, more expensive than some but superb year round in typical UK weather inculding snow, so there is no need to think about winter tyres if you live outside the North of scotland.
Thanks for commenting!
We have used crossclimates first generation are run flat can drive for 30 miles on punctured tyre enough to get you home or drive on smart motorway just a thought
Crossclimates are awesome on any car. I'll never go back to summer tyres given how wet and cold the UK is for half the year.
Thanks for doing this so we are not conned.
You're welcome!
Excellent informative video, thank you for this
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting as I'm currently looking to buy a used ev
Cheers - Garry B in Manchester UK
You're welcome!
I couldn’t agree more. I have a 21 Tesla Model 3 Long Range. The OEM factory tyres (Hankook Venus Evo 3) were lasting about 20k kms and were ok. I replaced them with Pirelli P Zero T0 (for EV’s) way better grip, heaps quieter, a lot more expensive but lasted twice as long.
I turned my Tesla into an overlander. I put in a 2” lift kit, changed the factory 19” wheels for aftermarket 18” and put on Yokohama Geolandar G015 All Terrain tyres. Definitely not for EV’s.
Guess what? I measured with a decimal measure app on the Perelli’s and the Yokohamas and they’re within 1db so they sound the same and my economy is also identical.
(The losses with the lift kit were gained by going down to an 18” wheel).
Very interesting! Thanks for commenting. Did the ride comfort improve by going down to 18"?
yes, incredibly. It went from a harsh rough ride to smooth and forgiving of potholes whilst still handling well.
Yep , well done for covering this. Ive had a couple of Zoes in the past and I found the factory fitted Michelins really prone to pot hole damage. My local tyre garage fitted standard Kumho's of the right spec and they were really solid tyres plus half the price of the Michelins.
Nicely done 👍 I had some Kumhos a few years ago and found them good.
Very sensible video
👍
Excellent video, well explained
@@michaelcruz487 Thanks!
When I bought my 3yr old MG5 it had the original tyres and barely any wear on them (They had done 8000 miles in three years). One of the fronts had sidewall damage that was unnacceptable, so I insisted that tyre was replaced. One of the others was starting to crack too from lack of use, so they did those as a pair. The cheap ones they have put on are already rapidly losing tread. The original ones though are holding up perfectly fine, still showing virtually no wear. So LIFESPAN of the tyres is more important to me. I'm not bothered at all by how much 'fuel' (or energy) I'll burn with a C rated tyre vs an A rated tyre. What does bother me though is whether the tyres will last me one ir two years or will keep going for six years before they need replacing. With 'fuel' costing so much less on the EV, the cost of the tyre replacement itself is now much more important than the cost of the 'fuel' economy they will deliver. The tyre ratings system really doesn't give much help to determine whether you're looking at a tyre that will hold together for years and years vs a tyre that will start shedding rubber at the slightest hint of a bend in the road.
You can get a good gauge of the longevity by looking at the tread wear rating.
Unfortunately a lot of the resellers do not publish this info and you'll have to go looking directly with the manufacturer.
We are seeing more and more tyres that need replacing due to rubber perishing and either cracking which results in an unsafe tyre and MOT failure or even worse and delamination.
Personally, I'm more worried by an old tyre compared to a newer tyre with lower tread.
That's just my personal experience of working in the motor trade.
The oils in the rubber compound are not stable enough to resist the heat cycles and UV damage for many years.
This is a long way of saying that there needs to be a balancing act between mileage and age.
@@UpsideDownFork Someone who drives 5000 miles a year will look different to aging an max miles with a tyre than someone driving 20000 miles a year.
With 5000 miles the loss of strength due to aging is more important thatn the loss of thread due to driving.
With 20000 miles a tyre will not even last (much) more than 3 years. Whne driving carefully. No need to pay much attention to wearing out the rubber.
I have an MG5 long range, 22 plate, will need to replace them in the next year before its first MOT, what medium cost option today with wear and rolling resistance for efficiency a priority would you suggest?
Without having personally tested them all, I would be hesitant to make a specific recommendation.
No probs mate
I always buy on efficiency first, wear second but have also been doing the sums Mr Fork points out to check that the price is not excessive. I don't mind a small premium because reduced emissions is always a bonus, but often you can get very good tyres without spending a fortune. This all got a great deal easier once all tyres started coming with ratings - back in the 1990s it was incredibly hard to find out efficiency data for most tyres.
Thanks for commenting!
Timely video.
Our Kona EV front tyres are down to 3.5mm tread depth. The rears are at 6.5mm! My wife (main driver) drives it in Normal mode & is no boy racer (currently averaging 4.3m/kW - no heat pump). Even so it is very easy to spin up the front tyres in damp conditions. There also seems to be a very slow leak on the front right tyre (5psi drop / week) which I suspect is a tyre pressure monitoring valve issue because there are no visible signs of damage, nails etc to the tyre itself (215/55/R17 94V). So, even though there's some life in the front tyres I think it's time to get some new boots. A pair of Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance 2 are on the cards which are 4dBA quieter than the OEM's while still having high rating for efficiency & wet weather performance.
Spray some soapy water around the valve and you'll quickly identify the leak.
Always worth taking the valve cap off and putting some soapy water on the end of the valve to see if it's leaking from the valve stem. Not unusual for them to be slightly loose.
Got two new rear tyres on my 3 year old 36000 miles Ioniq 5. The Ev ones we're cheaper than "regular" ones, from a Hyundai dealer! Would it not make more sense to compare weight of same model Ev/Ice, so say e2008 vs 2008?
Thanks for commenting!
I worked with a tyre engineer, and with a "2 wheel engineer" who specialised in efficiency.
According to them EV tyres differ in foam insert only (to dampen road noise).
And efficiency is such a nuanced topic that it cannot be summed up in one number rating.
Your tyre pressure at different temperatures (wet differs from dry too btw) and different weight loads will lose or gain efficiency.
It is complicated, but above 60 kmh, your rolling resistance plays a much smaller role than air resistance anyhow.
Thanks. I agree that the labelling system is oversimplified to aid understanding by all.
The controlled testing of the tyres also differs from real world use, just like WLTP testing for example.
Also, not all EV tyres have foam, or at least 2 years ago didn't.
My biggest beef is tire noise as the tire wears. I have bought tons of new tires that started quiet but became unbearable after 30,000 km!
Yep, I agree 👍
What a brilliant piece of work! Well done 👍
I’ve changed Tyres on my ID3 and without fail they will tell me I must have EV specific tyres.
Can I draw the conclusion that I can safely ignore that and choose any tyres as long as they are the correct size?
Correct size, load index and speed rating.
Yep, what he said.
What I know about tyres can be written on the back of a postage stamp. When replacing tyres, I've looked at the specs and just chosen whatever's cheapest that matches the original tyre specifications with the exception that I might have allowed a new tyre to be slightly louder than original but only by about 1dB which you really wouldn't notice. I always thought the "EV" tyre thing was marketing hype; the noise thing is to me the only thing that's relevant.
For anyone on a PCP, I've handed a car back with replacement non-EV tyres on it and they didn't bat an eyelid.
Agreed
In your EU spreadsheet example, the gained efficiency was 4% between C and A tyres. In an EV with a range of 400km (yes, from a metric country), this translates to an extra 16km of range which may be just what you need to get you to the next charger (also from a country that could use more EV infrastructure). Though you are correct, so much of this can be gained by judicious use of the right foot. As for me, I always go for the dynamic performance first when choosing tyres. Noise may suddenly become more of a consideration that I am about to take delivery of my first BEV but also mindful that most people cannot detect a change in volume that is less than 3dB.
Thanks for commenting!
For my twizy, with a range today of 42km, I arrived home with just 0 km left in the battery.
I could go for tires with better efficiency right about now, as temperature will drop more.
Quadtrac 5 has a D Rating, but it's not like there's an A or B available. Can I have 4% extra range please? With low temperature and a worn battery I kinda need it.
I am glad that Ilive down under where we don't need winter tyres.
Here on the south coast of the UK we don't need them either.
And in Summer, even hard compound tyres become very grippy.
Great video with lots of useful information. My tyre fitter hates EV tyres as he says the side walls are so thin they are difficult to work with. He recons if you get a puncture it can't be repaired and they are only made that way to save weight.
The bottom line is if you want to go further in your EV then drive slower and accelerate more gently. My MG5 is currently getting just over 3 miles per kWh (indicated) but I'm not trying to drive carefully when doing local journeys, if I need to do a longer journey where the range is in doubt I'll slow down a bit.
Have you heard the recent interview with the CEO of Enso on Everything electric podcast? Very interesting but the most interesting bit was the profitability of the tyre industry is better than Apples.
I'll have to look that podcast up.
I can certainly recommend the ENSO video. Very interesting.
I replaced the summer Continental OE tyres on my ID
3 with Michelin Cross Climate 2's, not EV specific. Oddly, the economy has not tanked or even degraded at all and the tyres are way better than the OE Continentals.
@@michaelgoode9555 those cross climates are very well regarded by many who know a lot more than I do in the motor trade 👍
I have bought almost the cheapest new tyres for my 2019 Nissan Leaf 40kw and nothing changed to the efficiency and driving performance.
Thanks for commenting
Good video. The other thing that doesn't usually get mentioned is tread depth when new.
For many people they will replace the tyres at 3mm so if you buy tyres that only have 7.2mm new you are only getting 4.2mm of use. If you buy one with 8.8mm then you are getting 5.8mm of use. Doesn't sound that much but as a percentage it's quite a lot.
@@gavjlewis that's true. Some of these new eco tyres have harder compounds and start with a tread depth of 5.8mm when new!
@UpsideDownFork 5.8mm!😮 I consider that a part warn! 😂
@@gavjlewis Shocking, right. Even Michelin are guilty of this.
There's probably a bigger variation in most of the parameters if the tyre is under-inflated. The fact remains, however, that tyre costs will generally be higher for heavier vehicles, and that if two vehicles run the same tyres, the heavier one will cause faster wear on those tyres. There's an exception to tyre costs, however. I can buy replacement tyres for my minivan (people carrier) very cheaply, since they are unfashionably high profile, with a humble speed rating - P215 70R15.
Thanks for commenting
Interesting, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful. Does the calculator you showed give the %difference between A and C tyres as opposed to the 7.5% A to G?
That is correct.
MG ev5 Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 2 tyres 45 thousand miles to the rear, 35 thousand miles on the front. Silver medal winners Auto Taxi driver, Great channel
Nicely done at those mileages!
Noise ratings are measured outside on a drive by. People who have switched from run flat to non run flat tyres I’ll attest to the fact that inside the car non run flats are the hosted regardless of noise ratings.
This is because the stiffer side walls transmit vibrations through the body of the car than tyres with softer side walls. This is why non run flats are better for noise and comfort than run flats.
There are also technologies that make tyres produce less roar and are obviously of greater benefit on very quiet vehicles like EVs and rolls Royce.
Yes! I hate run flats!
Its all about aggressive tyre patterns I was told, and that I should only have them inflated with pure Nitrogen.
😂
Thanks for this video, it proves what I suspected for the past 2 years - the tyre companies use FUD in a fantastically effective way, and they are all in on it! I could quite literally buy a brand new set of budget tyres for my wife's Leaf if I was more clever about this and did not waste such a lot of money buying "EV-rated" tyres. It seems that the joke is on me this time, thank you very much for the insight.
You're welcome!
My take on it usvthst if you stick to the original fit your usage should deliver the kw consumption they tested however the speed rating and load are the defining characteristics to adhere to.
Fair view!
Thanks for watching! Merry Christmas
Thank you I have been telling people the thing here in Australia Tesla will pick the car if you have a flat and change the tyre at the service centre with a ev tyre
Thanks for commenting
Great video thank you
Glad it was helpful!
For noise or other criteria the depth of tread is adjusted meaning that the tyre life distance can be different. This should be part of the calculation.
True.
I'm more interested in the grip and breaking performance of the tyre closely followed noise levels. I only do about 3k miles a year and very few of those will be long distance. If I need to recharge a little sooner no big deal but if the I need to stop 1m sooner than I can on a cheap tyre that can be really costly.
Thanks. Most new tyres far exceed the requirements for tyre grip levels.
Even budget tyres of today often outperform tyres from 15 years ago in this area.
But if you've got the budget for it, go for some super grippy tyres and worry no more 👍
Is there an issue with insurance if you fit a tyre with a speed or load rating lower that that stated in the user manual?
Possibly, you know and I know insurance companies will get out of paying if they can. Had a mate the bought a car with a tiny rear boot spoiler that wasn't standard it looked standard but apparently was not insurance refused and they charged him £300 to add it as was considered non standard..... A small bit of plastic worth probably £50 max
Yes, this is an insurance issue but for MOST vehicles, you will never be able to find tyres that are under the OE specification. 99% of the time, replacement tyres far exceed the minimum requirements.
A very good informative video 👍
Thanks!
Great video, I did wonder why evs tyres were a lot more expensive now I know it's just marketing, thanks :)
Thanks for watching!
I'm pretty sure that having the correct tyre pressure for your load is far more important for efficiency and wear than anything else . I don't know why checking tyre pressure is so overlooked.
👍
Added comment on weight rating, most EV cars are evenly distributed weight front/rear , while most ICE cars have the engine and gear box at the front - putting a lot more weight at the front.
Very true!
I've been thinking about tyres lately.
I'm over the initial rush of always trying to beat ICE cars away from the lights in my Leaf and now find myself plodding along with one eye on the efficiency display as I drive to Tescos!
Good to know I shouldn't need to spend a small fortune on 'Special' EV-rated tyres.I
Thank you. 😀
Happy to help.
With a Tesla I look for kerbing protection mostly
@@Chris-mh3vf smart move 👍
It would also be to great know how long they lasts or how many miles you are lightly to go before you need to change them again.
You can get a good gauge of this by looking at the tread wear rating.
Unfortunately a lot of the resellers do not publish this info and you'll have to go looking directly with the manufacturer.
Torque control on Tesla especially 4wd is superb and the one thing that never gets a mention 🌝
@@pollywollydo pretty niche?🤔
@ having seen a Mod S take off on sheet ice being filmed with a high speed camera on the tyre / ice( road?) interface it certainly sold me on it and yet it’s never mentioned in all that’s been written/ video’d on Tesla stuff🤔
The same nonsense with filling with nitrogen, told the shop that tried that on me to take it out and put air in seeing as it is 80% nitrogen anyway.
Yep!
@@UpsideDownFork Reason why they put nitrogen is because it's dry. No humidity. But you need to fill it, empty it at least twice to get at least 95% nitrogen, Problem with humidity is that it will make the tire pressure change with temperature significantly. And most garage compressors use normal air, and if the weather is really damp, it will introduce more humidity in your tires, This is why planes are using nitrogen, because they are subject to large variations in temperature. If you get to 30,000 ft, temperature is minus 40 and the plane stays there for many hours. So, when they land, they need to have the right pressure in the tires. Personnally, I use normal air, but I check the pressure more frequently. I have a big compressor in my basement...
@pierreforget3357 true. All commercial garages will use a water trap on the compressor outlet. They do vary in quality but even a basic Sealey/Draper unit will be good enough for what we need in road tyres.
Perhaps driving on the autobahn is different as I know from people who work in Motorsport of the critical importance in this area.
As a motorcyclist, I check my tyres before every ride and make sure they are exact when cold 👍
As with everything with driving the biggest statistical factor in driving efficiency is the ability and driving style of the person in the driving seat. Common sense prevails for an EV:
~ Drive more economically
~ Don't over accellerate
~ Crank down the heating and air con a notch
~ Wear an extra layer in the cold weather.
It isn't rocket science !
👍 yep
I do fit EV tyres just in case we have a bump and the insurance say we had the wrong type of tyres fitted, no other reason.
Fair enough.
We have had extra load and reinforced van tyres on the market for years. EV tyres are no different in their construction, Other they are designed to be slightly quieter and faster. It’s just hype for manufactures and retailers to make more profit.
Agree
From the title I was expecting this video to be some kind of reaction to the Fully Charged podcast with this Enso EV tyre manufacturer. It was focussed on the sustainability, pollution and end of life for tyres.
I should have a look at that.
My eGolf uses regular tires. Given it is November I have my snow set on. I get less range with them. They have an aggressive tread for snow and ice. No difference it being a EV.
@@stevemcgowen thanks for commenting
Maybe check Hancock tyre guarantee for ev tyres.
Why's that? Is it unique?
I think the biggest issue with tyres on an EV is durability, wear resistance and especially resistance to cracking. We've a 3 year old VW ID3 10000 miles and all four tyres are badly cracked.
Ouch. Are they continentals by any chance?
What does the vehicle being a ev have to do with cracking? Tires crack because of age and under inflation, mostly. Given they are not 20 year old tires , under in inflation is most likely the cause.
@@UpsideDownFork Yip Continentals. Getting new tires fitted so that the car is safe for my wife over the winter. Also got an advisory for front disks corrosion, regen breaking. Thankfully the calipers aren't seized.
The ID3 is going in for a new 2024 Dacia Duster in March, full petrol hybrid, actually a lovely car. Saving on fuel is one thing but I think capital outlay is a bigger issue. The Duster is one of the cheapest on the market, I've had 6 new Dacia's to date & no issues and they keep their price well. The cheaper I can buy a car the better, I think for most folkies that is the attitude now, they are for getting from A to B.
@@johnwatt1911 I called it because Continentals have been having these issues for about 10 years now. It's very well known in the Mercedes Benz circles in which I work. EV or not makes no difference. I'm surprised there is not some massive class action against them really.
@@johnwatt1911 not interested in the Spring then?
Tbh....I am on winter season 2 on cheap Chinese tires...I drive 1000k per month just for work no difference to expensive brand named...I can afford more newer tires more often as opposed to expensive ones I try to squeeze very mile out of them
Thanks for commenting
Pilot sport 4 are a good all rounder .
Great but not exactly good value for money.
Car tyres are a good place to spend a bit extra money .
I have heard that the EV specific tyres should be removed and shoved in the shed to be replaced with ICE car tyres to give you the handling that matches the performance of the EV.
I shouldn't comment on this as there are many variables. Anyone who has had a car with run flat tyres and switched to normal tyres will know the feeling.
What I want to know is, do the premium manufacturer durability claims that don't have an EU rating system actually see fruit/ are legit.
I've looked into Michelin's claims and they do seem legit. Not sure about the others for sure.
Many people love to do burn outs with EVs- especially tezla drivers. That’s the biggest factor.
That's a possibility
I watch numerous videos from antis to shills.
There was a bit of bashing about tyre wear, but it went quiet a couple months back.
Perhaps with more research, the antis have found there's no real difference on that specific part.
It still does not excuse some misinformation I see from the shills though!
@@stevecoinitin7521 hopefully you found this to be somewhat balanced?
I'll respectfully disagree. I put a set of nokias on my ev and the miles per kwh went down ~7% after 10k miles of the same route for a year.
Rolling resistance does play a role in miles/kwh.
Thanks for commenting!
7% is a big difference!
Do you know the rating of those and the tyres you're comparing them against?
@UpsideDownFork I'm comparing them against the original tires that came with the car. Ecopias I believe. Have a video on them.
Tyre companies push tyres that will wear quicker as they want you to buy them more often. Getting price and longevity as well as performance in the wet are ones I look at. Often I find a price point and compare within that.
Thanks for commenting
Tires don’t have to have a tread wear rating in the uk?
@@stevemcgowen Tread wear indicators on the tyres and a 1.6mm minimum in UK
@@Jaw0lfI’m talking about tread ware rating. It is a number on the side of tires, for instance it will say something like tread ware 200- which is low, or 460- which is high. The higher the number, the longer they will last.
@@stevemcgowen Yes they do but retailers don't need to show/publish them so you will have to enquire directly with the manufacturer for treadwear ratings.
Our e-golf has gotten first new tyres after what ?
64.000 km on all season tyres , but only on the front axle have been replaced, rear ones are sill good and will last more than 80000 km or even 90.000 km.
4 years 5 months old. Average consumption about 16 kWh. 95% of charging has happened at home with a 3 kW charger.
Battery any good ?
Well, still 95% of capacity which means the range and capacity has not changed since the first year.
British tyre prices are terrible high compared to german ones.
@@typxxilps nice! Thanks for sharing 👍
Appreciate the research which went into this but I found this video a little negative.
It would have been nice to consider how the additional range via the efficency boost compares with the additional cost of ev specific tyres.
Chances are there is a fair bit of marketing in play, but anything which can boost range by 1 or 2% might be worth considering depending on the maths.
@@Stune5 thanks for the feedback 👍
I agree - except for Hyundai Kona original equipment Nexen tyres which are garbage ! I thought there was something deficient with the drivetrain of Kona EVs. Even moderate acceleration in dry conditions would produce unruly wheel spin and consequent instability. I finally got to the end of these awful tyres and replaced them with some very reasonable Goodyear Efficiencygrip items. My car is transformed ! Even enthusiastic acceleration in the wet doesn't provoke wheel spin. The car is now stable and smooth. Why would Hyundai compromise an excellent car with such rubbish tyres ?
Thanks for commenting.
5 l/100Km is 56 MPG ( uk gallons) ...
Thank you!
You missed the most important factor feature... Wear rate.
Ok, i'll schedule a follow up video where we look at treadwear ratings and independent real world mileage testing, which is very difficult to come by.
Mate got tesla which can only have tesla tyres got a punchure ended up £700 bill..
There are no such thing as "Tesla only" tyres. Your mate has been robbed.
It’s the same with motorhomes tyres.
Thanks for commenting
"You need to have electric car tyres because we need to charge a premium and increase our profits". Just like why car manufacturers switched to SUVs. Meanhwile China is producing cheap EVs, as well as high end ones.
Yep!
I don't think EV tires claim to have better traction, maybe vs rolling resistance
Thanks for commenting
I find TH-camrs that do reviews of things don't help. A lot of them get items gifted for a review and can afford the higher price. If you don't get the top of the range branded job you're a danger on the road
Yeah, that narrative has to stop. Even the cheapest of the cheap will far exceed the safety requirements laid out.
Buy cheap, buy twice.
I always buy premium tyres with good reviews. As I drive around 20k a year they definitely last longer than budgets and considering they are the most important part of the car that keeps it in contact with the road I ain't scrimping on cheap Taiwanese Wankocks 😂
@@deansh8506 each to their own 👍
You don`t neeed EV tires but it helps to have tires with low roll resistance and I would guess that is what they mean.
Yep, plenty of those around to choose from 👍
Wow, how many aspects did you miss in what's presented. Load is rated to what the tyre can handle in weight, not how well it handles the weight of the vehicle which is what the manufacturers trying to point out.
Speed ratings are what the tyre can handle, and this is normally based on what the vehicle is capable of rather than the speed what you and I will drive. Insurance companies and regulations typically demand this on vehicles.
Noise. Small improvements can make a big difference, especially with EVs.
Efficiency. Again, while all manufacturers typically drive innovation in efficiency for tyres, and with EVs it is important. Regardless of my foot weight on the pedal is irrelevant. My foot is the same regardless of car, so more efficient tyres do help, albeit a small amount. Combine all these metrics and there is a difference. Is it worth it? Who knows. That's up to the consumer.
Sure.
Marketing hype. Same as you get for many products.
👍
Hmmm vicar on the way to church.... Have they finished writing their sermon or not? That will have a significant affect on the weight of their right foot 😂
So very true! They can always repent once they've made it safely to church.
👍👍👍
One of these days you'll give me a thumbs down and I'll know I've done wrong!
I think this whole "EVs are heavier" is BS... I have a Tesla Model Y LR now which weighs less than my previous 2 door Audi coupe.
Exactly!
Great info thanks. I have had my BEV now for 3.5years & 30k miles and am needing to change them so very handy.
As everyone seems to be saying noise is the biggest driver and I always go for the quietest.
Big issue for me is do I want to go to cross climate or not.
Depends where you are in the country. For us on the south coast, cross climates are wasted
This may help you, I have been driving for 40 years and over the last 6yrs owning different Evs, a Leaf and eNiro. I live in the Midlands so not the deep snow of up-north but then occasionally we will encounter bad weather. Who knows what is about to arrive! So I always buy sets of All Season tyres, I have done this over the last 15yrs and I can confirm that they have always returned the same longevity as a summer tyre (last set changed at almost 40k miles- 3 mm still left) and are no different in noise levels. Being All Season they stay on all year - no changing wheels twice a year. Basically the same price as summer tyres much better and safer in the wet and I have on innumerable occasions sailed past 4WDs stuck in the snow obviously shod with summer tyres. Plenty of evidence on TH-cam of 2WD on all-season being better than a 4WD on summers. So my advice would be to go with the quietest dB AS tyre but a reputable brand that you can trust. My current tyres are the Goodyear Vector 4Season Gen-3. An absolutely great tyre. Whilst CrossClimate are an excellent choice they are expensive but if that is within budget go with them. I will never buy Summer tyres again. Hope this helps.
@@peterwilliams2580 Up north here. When I was working and driving 30k a year I use to put cross climates on and change them every year in Sept.
Now retired and only doing 8k a year. So it has taken me 3.5years to get to the point of changing the tyres.
When my car was in for service the loan car came with cross climates on and did not feel as grippy. Hence my problem.
Yes I know what the difference is like in snow; but how much will I see.
Car has "off road mode" which locks the diffs and I was very surprised how good the traction was. Obviously brakes would be tricky.
@@ians3328 I don't think you will go wrong with Cross Climates but I understand that the current Best All Season is the new Pirelli Cinturato All Season SF3. So if you think that Cross Climates have had their day check out the new Pirelli as the stats and reviews are amazing.
Rant away.
@@bulwinkle thanks for allowing this free therapy session 😁
I can tell you drive an EV just by looking at you.
What else can you tell about me from my looks?