I have their clutch. They are based close to my house, so I just drove over there and picked it up. Really enjoyed it. I used steel flywheel though. GTO is mainly my daily.
That's really nice to be able to just swing by. I went with the light weight flywheel. But honestly I don't notice much of a difference in driveability, which is nice. I wasn't sure what to expect, but thus far I don't really notice any issues. Did you go through the 500 mile break-in period?
Scruf's Garage I did. It was painful lol I'm currently about to install McLoed rxt. Dunno how I'm going to do break in on it since it's going straight to the dyno for tune when it's done.
GOOD INFORMATION BRO, YOUR VIDEO WAS SO EASY, YOU WENT STRAIGHT TO THE POINT WITHOUT GIVING OUT TOOOO MUCH INFORMATION AND HAVING THE VIEWER LOST. KINDA LIKE BUILDING A FURNITURE ROM IKEA. FOLLOW ABC STEPS HAHA. THANK YOU
so im finally installing my monster clutch kit. and i have some (?)s.... what is that part youre using to hold the engine, not the hoist, but the engine to hoist support. do these steps the same as a regular flywheel. i went with stock size not aluminum like you did. thanks. again great video and very informative.
Thinking about pulling the trigger on tick's level 2 monster package. The price seems fair for a real overhaul of the clutch and hydraulics. Why did you end up going with the lightweight flywheel?
I replaced my clutch as part of a larger project (rebuilt engine, different suspension, etc)... so I am still a week or so away from firing up the engine for the first time. So I can't comment just yet on the driving experience. but I'm getting VERY close. I'll follow up as soon as I can. As for the lightweight flywheel, reducing the rotating weight allows the engine to rev faster. I use my C5 for HPDE track events, so the ability to rev faster is helpful. For a strictly street car, it's probably less of a benefit. A lightweight flywheel also carries less rotating momentum (which is why it can rev faster), but in slow stop-n-go traffic with light throttle, a light flywheel can be a bit trickier to drive. If I had the extra money, I really wanted the Monster LT1-S twin disc. The twin disc is the best combination of pedal weight and holding power, but obviously comes at a higher price point. I think the Stage 2 single disc will do everything I need it to, but if it fits your budget, I would also consider the twin disc. And regardless of which clutch you get, definitely get the Tick remote speed bleeder for the slave cylinder. It's the best $50 you'll spend. Makes bleeding the clutch fluid a breeze!
Yes, I've read about that. That Chevy dynamically balanced the clutch/flywheel on the engine as an assembly to minimize resonance. My situation was a little different. I did not have any weights on my old clutch. Plus, I was installing it on a rebuilt engine. Since I had changed the rotating mass of the engine (forged rods/pistons, ATI balancer, light weight flywheel), the balance of the old assembly would not have matched my new engine anyways. I did not have any issues with the new clutch.
Did you have to balance match the clutch assembly with the motor? I’m about to replace my clutch, however, with an OEM part, but I’m reading online that I should remove the weights off the existing flywheel and install on new flywheel…
So for my application, I was installing on a rebuilt engine. I had changed pistons and rods, etc. So the internal harmonics of the engine would have been very different from the original engine. Also, my old clutch/flywheel did not have any of the balancing weights. So I did not do any additional balancing or weight transfer when installing my new clutch and I did not have any vibrations afterwards. Just some other tips, definitely make sure you install a new slave cylinder, and I highly recommend adding a remote bleeder line from Tick. worth every penny.
Thanks for the advice. This whole clutch replacement started because of a failed slave cylinder. What a pain. Would you recommend that I transfer any weights I find (if any) from the old flywheel to the new flywheel?
In theory, with less reciprocating mass, the engine should be able to rev faster. I changed so many components while rebuilding my engine, it's difficult to yes exactly how much of a change just the flywheel made. Overall I'm happy with the clutch setup. It has good engagement, the pedal isn't crazy heavy, and it's smooth.
Did you have any weights on your OEM flywheel? Just wondering if you had to match balance your monster flywheel and if you have experienced any vibrations after your break in? Keep up the vids, very informative and inspiring me to diy my clutch! Thanks
SCOOBYTRAP1 I did not have any flywheel weights. But since I rebuilt my engine with new pistons and rods, the factory weights would not have been correct anyways since the internal balance of the engine changed. I have just a tiny vibration around 45mph but it’s barely noticeable.
Looks like its almost easier to remove engine to replace the clutch than to remove the whole rear assembly. Since you have done both what would you recommend ?
Ugh, neither is fun. But I would pull the torque tube. I actually pulled the TT out first before I pulled the engine out. It can be difficult to get the motor to come forward enough to clear the input shaft from the bell housing because of the steering rack.
It's running good. Actually drove it to work today for the first time. I got it dyno'd recently, but I've been out of the country for the last 2 weeks for work, so I haven't had a chance to put together the videos yet. So stay tuned!
Correct. Now if you are reinstalling a clutch that has balancing weights, then you may need to align it; hopefully you marked it when removing. For me, I was installing a new clutch and new flywheel on a rebuilt engine with new rods/pistons, etc. So any factory balance weights on the old clutch were not relevant for me.
Did you shim the slave? And does your clutch catch high? Just had mine done and clutch catches super high... also engagement not smooth guessing the tick CMC not installed well
I did not. Clutch doesn't engage abnormally high. There is adjustment in the Tick CMC, that might help. Also, make sure the hydraulic system is complete bled. An air pocket could cause some inconsistent clutch feel.
Yes, the best I can tell. Monster recommends a 500 mile break-in period for the clutch so I haven't beat on it yet (only have 300 miles on it so far). But a few 70% throttle pulls and it seems to be doing fine. I'll report back with a final confirmation though!
LZETA28 pep Yes I’ve been very happy with this clutch. I’ve got about 1500 miles on it so far. It seems to be holding my 408rwhp no problem and the clutch pedal sticking to the floor problem is gone. It’s also not too bad to drive in heavy traffic either.
I have their clutch. They are based close to my house, so I just drove over there and picked it up. Really enjoyed it. I used steel flywheel though. GTO is mainly my daily.
That's really nice to be able to just swing by. I went with the light weight flywheel. But honestly I don't notice much of a difference in driveability, which is nice. I wasn't sure what to expect, but thus far I don't really notice any issues. Did you go through the 500 mile break-in period?
Scruf's Garage I did. It was painful lol I'm currently about to install McLoed rxt. Dunno how I'm going to do break in on it since it's going straight to the dyno for tune when it's done.
Yea, I'm in the same boat. I'm running on my old tune for the first 500, then headed to the dyno.
Did you use ARP hardware?
GOOD INFORMATION BRO, YOUR VIDEO WAS SO EASY, YOU WENT STRAIGHT TO THE POINT WITHOUT GIVING OUT TOOOO MUCH INFORMATION AND HAVING THE VIEWER LOST. KINDA LIKE BUILDING A FURNITURE ROM IKEA. FOLLOW ABC STEPS HAHA. THANK YOU
Thanks man, I really appreciate it. Glad to hear the video was helpful!
so im finally installing my monster clutch kit. and i have some (?)s.... what is that part youre using to hold the engine, not the hoist, but the engine to hoist support. do these steps the same as a regular flywheel. i went with stock size not aluminum like you did. thanks. again great video and very informative.
Thinking about pulling the trigger on tick's level 2 monster package. The price seems fair for a real overhaul of the clutch and hydraulics. Why did you end up going with the lightweight flywheel?
I replaced my clutch as part of a larger project (rebuilt engine, different suspension, etc)... so I am still a week or so away from firing up the engine for the first time. So I can't comment just yet on the driving experience. but I'm getting VERY close. I'll follow up as soon as I can.
As for the lightweight flywheel, reducing the rotating weight allows the engine to rev faster. I use my C5 for HPDE track events, so the ability to rev faster is helpful. For a strictly street car, it's probably less of a benefit. A lightweight flywheel also carries less rotating momentum (which is why it can rev faster), but in slow stop-n-go traffic with light throttle, a light flywheel can be a bit trickier to drive.
If I had the extra money, I really wanted the Monster LT1-S twin disc. The twin disc is the best combination of pedal weight and holding power, but obviously comes at a higher price point. I think the Stage 2 single disc will do everything I need it to, but if it fits your budget, I would also consider the twin disc.
And regardless of which clutch you get, definitely get the Tick remote speed bleeder for the slave cylinder. It's the best $50 you'll spend. Makes bleeding the clutch fluid a breeze!
I’ve come across a video of a clutch install in a LS motor Corvette and it was deemed necessary to match balance the clutch/flywheel.
Your comment ?
Yes, I've read about that. That Chevy dynamically balanced the clutch/flywheel on the engine as an assembly to minimize resonance. My situation was a little different. I did not have any weights on my old clutch. Plus, I was installing it on a rebuilt engine. Since I had changed the rotating mass of the engine (forged rods/pistons, ATI balancer, light weight flywheel), the balance of the old assembly would not have matched my new engine anyways. I did not have any issues with the new clutch.
@@ScrufsGarage thanx for your reply . So it sounds like its on an individual basis, great ! Another one of the General’s brilliant ideas.
Did you have to balance match the clutch assembly with the motor? I’m about to replace my clutch, however, with an OEM part, but I’m reading online that I should remove the weights off the existing flywheel and install on new flywheel…
So for my application, I was installing on a rebuilt engine. I had changed pistons and rods, etc. So the internal harmonics of the engine would have been very different from the original engine. Also, my old clutch/flywheel did not have any of the balancing weights. So I did not do any additional balancing or weight transfer when installing my new clutch and I did not have any vibrations afterwards. Just some other tips, definitely make sure you install a new slave cylinder, and I highly recommend adding a remote bleeder line from Tick. worth every penny.
Thanks for the advice. This whole clutch replacement started because of a failed slave cylinder. What a pain. Would you recommend that I transfer any weights I find (if any) from the old flywheel to the new flywheel?
Why light weight billet over the 28lb steel flywheel? Doesn't the extra weight transfer power better?
Is the speed at which it revs with the lightweight flywheel really noticeable over the stock flywheel?
In theory, with less reciprocating mass, the engine should be able to rev faster. I changed so many components while rebuilding my engine, it's difficult to yes exactly how much of a change just the flywheel made. Overall I'm happy with the clutch setup. It has good engagement, the pedal isn't crazy heavy, and it's smooth.
Did you use new fly wheel bolts? If so, where can I order some?
I did. I used the ARP bolts.
ARP LS1 Pressure Plate Bolts (134-2201)
amzn.to/2E3bTNY
ARP LS1 Flywheel Bolts (330-2802)
amzn.to/2CmxD74
Awesome! Thanks!
Did you have any weights on your OEM flywheel? Just wondering if you had to match balance your monster flywheel and if you have experienced any vibrations after your break in? Keep up the vids, very informative and inspiring me to diy my clutch! Thanks
SCOOBYTRAP1 I did not have any flywheel weights. But since I rebuilt my engine with new pistons and rods, the factory weights would not have been correct anyways since the internal balance of the engine changed. I have just a tiny vibration around 45mph but it’s barely noticeable.
Did you measure for a shim?
Where did you get the rear steam cross over pipe?
I used GM Truck Crossover - 12605716 (amzn.to/2HVlFot). I did a video on it that may be helpful as well. th-cam.com/video/xWgUicWliFE/w-d-xo.html
@@ScrufsGarage awesome, thank you.
Looks like its almost easier to remove engine to replace the clutch than to remove the whole rear assembly. Since you have done both what would you recommend ?
Ugh, neither is fun. But I would pull the torque tube. I actually pulled the TT out first before I pulled the engine out. It can be difficult to get the motor to come forward enough to clear the input shaft from the bell housing because of the steering rack.
Hows yours running now after the rebuild, did u dyno it yet?
It's running good. Actually drove it to work today for the first time. I got it dyno'd recently, but I've been out of the country for the last 2 weeks for work, so I haven't had a chance to put together the videos yet. So stay tuned!
YOU DONT NEED TO ALIGN THIS JUST MATCH THE BOLTS?
Correct. Now if you are reinstalling a clutch that has balancing weights, then you may need to align it; hopefully you marked it when removing. For me, I was installing a new clutch and new flywheel on a rebuilt engine with new rods/pistons, etc. So any factory balance weights on the old clutch were not relevant for me.
Did you shim the slave? And does your clutch catch high? Just had mine done and clutch catches super high... also engagement not smooth guessing the tick CMC not installed well
I did not. Clutch doesn't engage abnormally high. There is adjustment in the Tick CMC, that might help. Also, make sure the hydraulic system is complete bled. An air pocket could cause some inconsistent clutch feel.
Did the clutch resolve problem?
Yes, the best I can tell. Monster recommends a 500 mile break-in period for the clutch so I haven't beat on it yet (only have 300 miles on it so far). But a few 70% throttle pulls and it seems to be doing fine. I'll report back with a final confirmation though!
Scruf's Garage videos a year old, how’d the stage 2 ultimately workout?
Would u still recommend this? I'm looking to buy a kit this weekend for my h/c/I 02 z28
LZETA28 pep Yes I’ve been very happy with this clutch. I’ve got about 1500 miles on it so far. It seems to be holding my 408rwhp no problem and the clutch pedal sticking to the floor problem is gone. It’s also not too bad to drive in heavy traffic either.
Helpful video
Awesome, glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Ax