Pro setup tips: 1. Move the heater to the floor (heat rises, use it to your advantage) 2.get a 10 to 20 foot copper pipe to use as your exhaust run it a couple feet away from the wall, THEN outside, the heat exchangers on these things suck! most of your heat is going out your current exhaust pipe setup. 3. Put a very low speed fan blowing along the copper exhaust pipe.
There is a guy on youtube who has one of these and he is running the exhaust through a cast iron radiator and then outside, he is capturing all that exhaust heat through the radiator and then it goes outside, i might give it a try next winter.
Yeah that would work, especially if a guy was to rig up a little computer fan or something to blow over the exchanger to maximize it. I got mine mostly for camping but with the thought of using for supplemental heat for garage too so IDK if I would go through all that.
I have 2 of these in my workshop that is about size a double garage and a little more. Heats it from 2-3 Celsius to 18 celcius in about 35minutes. I have the remotes by my bed. I drink my coffee and then go into the shop.
It puts out great heat I’m sure it would do what I had hoped with 2 of them, or 1 of them in a 1 car without such a high ceiling that I have. I ran it a few times with my existing heater and it got warm way faster and was able to maintain 65 degrees once it was warm
Have to heat ALL the objects in the room first. Then it will maintain the temp. I use to heat a house on the weekend. First 24 hours 2 of them run full blast. Then I can start turning them down.
The 8kw version of these heaters only puts out around 3kw and some of that is sent right out the tail pipe. Even so you could probably get better results on this heater and any other heater by tightening up your insulation , air sealing and insulating your garage door. I was able to reduce my required heat load by 50 percent by using a cheap infrared camera and fixing the cold spots with plastic , foam, and a bit of silicone caulk .
@@smky143 what’s more amazing is how many comments saying I did it wrong, people think that’s the air that’s getting heated for some reason even when you explain that it’s not
Some good ideas have been posted here. Lowering the unit and venting the heated air through two ducts by using a y connector and keeping it much lower to the floor is what I would do. I also would plumb it for a larger tank installed on the exterior. At that point if you have a real thermal barrier so you loose less then you produce you should be able to heat. I would install a ceiling fan on an adjustable fan speed, rotating counter clockwise on low to help move the heat. Thanks.
2 of these is the best. And before when i only had 1 i boosted the room with a propane cannon to get the temperature up and then the heater would do the job rest of the day. And also, having the cap on the end of the warm air hose is really holding back air and that makes the heater warm so it slows down and the total air moved wont be so much than having it all wide open. I on the intake where the fan is removed the gitter in front. But what really made everything awesome was having 2. They stay at the same place,and just are awesome. But you need to have something under to raise it for sure. And that smell was just the heater being run in. They dont smell anything. But you smelled your garage about to burn down lol.
yeah they need to include either some sort of elbow that's low profile or make the standoffs taller. For now I just put a piece of sheet metal down under it as a heat shield
Dude! you went above and beyond great demonstration. I will tell you this, the flame wall heater is no good I returned my flame version for the radiant version with the fan attachment (fan sold separately) let me tell you night and day difference for the disbursement, you might want to check out trying to recoup the heat lost from the exhaust for your gain there are some videos on here for that, anyway thanks for sharing.
Put a small fan in front of the heat duct and set it to low. your not moving air in stock form from that 3 inch tube. I use a ryobi fan. Do not run that 8KW on high for too long or your gonna get a overheat error. Run mine 24/7 and zero issues working out in the garage. Wrap your exhaust pipe with exhaust insulation tape. Use cement board between your studs for added fire safety.
For a 200% better heat exchanger, I ran my exhaust down to a welded 2 inch diameter black steel pipe radiator using T and Elbows. A 4 foot square radiator will catch a lot of heat from the exhaust. The pipes are vertical so any condensation can run outside and the bottom pipe is sloped to the outside. May get a bit of ice collected.... I also put the outside air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe together at the bottom of my radiator to preheat the intake air. Removed the stupid duct hose setup.
The exhaust is hot 🔥 a lot of wasted heat . I thought about doing the same thing . Getting an old heat radiator out of the old school houses around here .
Theres not much use in preheating the intake air as its only the combustion air that comes through that intake tube. The air that gets heated pulls directly in the back of the heater its room air. There are 2 intakes
Well... where to start... 1. Insulate your space 2. Its the same effect heaters 3. You have alot of cold stuff in the garage, takes a long time to acclimate 4. Keep it running on thermostats if you like or need comfort 5. It's not that difficult to learn converting celsius/Fahrenheit and kwh/but. Good luck! Yeah and finally, I run mine on 1-10 setting, usually on 5 (half effect) keeps 20°C in my shop (5kw unit).
Keep in mind this video was made over a year ago, for whatever reason it got popular a year later. My whole garage is insulated with the exception of the spot I sent the exhaust out. There used to be a door there before I moved here and it got covered up but there's only foam insulation there, no rolled. Someday Ill fix that. The whole ceiling is insulated too.
Yeah it was bothering me being all tangled, I’ve become a bit of a wiring snob. Now if I would just take apart my jeep and fix the wiring that 12 years ago me did 😂
The exhaust needs to go downward and the drain hole in the muffle on the opposite side of the mounting hole needs to go 👇 down. So condensation doesn't build up in your exhaust pipe . It doesn't necessarily need to go straight down it can go at a downward angle so the moisture can drain out .
Great vid, very honest which I like - I recon this would heat my garage fine, about 1.5 car size but man that clicking sound, if that's all the time - I could not get away with that, would drive me made
Theoretically a 8kw heater is 27000 btu. It takes 20 btu per sq ft to heat. Ymmv. I have a 676 sq ft insulated garage space and i am considering one of these to heat it. I run a 4800w heater on the woodshop side which is 300 sq ft. It is great for that space.
8kw is about 27,300 btu/hour. That is input not output. Output is 27,300 X efficiency of the heater. If exhaust is ~250 degrees probably around 70-80% efficient. 27,300 X .75 = 20,500 btu output.
I've had a few suggestions of running the exhaust through a radiator of sorts to leech all the heat out of it. Pretty good idea on a permanent install.
I just ordered 2 different 8kw heaters to compare them. I have a 2 car garage I’m going to try and heat. Any pointers would be great. This will be my first experience with them. I’ve had propane and kerosene heaters in the past
@@khoun261 I’d start with reading the comments on this video, I’ve had so many good suggestions. The main one being run the exhaust through some sort of heat exchanger to capture the wasted heat and to keep the heaters low to ground
@@FlawedOffroadi ran mine though a radiator made for a out door wood burner. The out let is cold. it sinks away all that wasted heat. I have a small box fan behind it and it works great.😂
You can choose to do it wrong if you want to but there’s a reason why basically every heat system ever does this and I explained it in the video. Walk downstairs and look at your furnace, it sends the combustion intake outside also. It’s not the intake for the air blowing across the heater.
For every cubic foot of hot exhaust expelled outside, the room must draw in that exact amount of COLD air, defeating the efficiency. Why heat cold replacement air when you can draw in outside air?
It's not a 1 to 1 loss of efficiency. If it were no standard forced air household unit would work. I see what you are saying about improving efficiency. I am working on creating a contained radiator for the exhaust to heat water when I winter camp. They make expensive and complex water heaters for these already, but all that I have seen use the heated air versus the exhaust air.
@@cottonpreppinpoor2709 that’s actually a pretty wicked idea. If I was relying on this thing to be my main heat source I would probably go do it but realistically this was just an experiment
Priming function on works on initial power up. Drove me nuts for hours as I have the DIY version and my tank and pump are outside my camper. The best I came up with is power it on, turn it one, the pump eventually starts ticking, wait a minute or so, turn it off, and start the whole process until you see fuel in the line. In have both versions, DIY (love) and the self contained version like this one. I have yet to fire up the self contained version (been a year). Also if you are having problems, switch the fuel line out for hard plastic fuel line. The soft rubber expands and contracts which is counter productive tongue pump trying to work.
Do yourself a favor and get a hotdog heater by Modine it runs on propane or natural gas it’ll have your garage if it’s 20 outside it’ll have your garage up to 70° inside of 15 to 20 minutes no problem at all, insulated garage of course! I had one for years in a 2 1/2 car garage 10 foot ceiling. I Moved to a warmer climate then moved back to a colder climate different garage but I’m gonna be putting one in my garage by next winter. I will Able to walk out into my garage and turn it on and be warm in a T-shirt working. good luck on your project!
I had the same experience. The only difference is my unit is mounted outside, with insulated ducts for cold and hot air being pumped in/out of garage. Even warming up the entire garage with a propane torpedo heater, the diesel heater couldn't keep the garage a decent temperature.
Mine worked pretty decent to maintain the temp after I warmed it up with both. I mostly bought it for camping, this was just a test to see if it would do it
Get the DIY version and mount the tank and pump outside like I did. Only thing bothered by the ticking are the wildlife animals. Plus with the tank outside, you don't have to worry about spilling diesel.
These are not 8kw - actual output is only 4kw. Having said that they are brilliant value. I run 3 of them on kerosene. One has over 5000 hours of use and still going strong.
@@FlawedOffroad @FlawedOffroad Kerosene is much cheaper than diesel in the UK due to our taxes. Without the tax they work out the same here. Kerosene is cleaner burning but has a slightly lower heat output. Not much difference really.
@@codprawn Here we can get #2 stove diesel oil without road tax. It is dyed different so if you get caught running it in a car or truck the fines can be harsh. Road diesel runs about $4.60 US$ for a US Gallon, 3.8L.
@@davej3487@davej3487 Our current price in the UK for road diesel is $6.64! People blame the oil companies. Itis government taxes that are the real rip off! Our heating oil/kerosene is currently equal to $2.77 per us gallon.
Love mine. Heats my entire 33 foot 5th wheel with 2 slides. Super efficient. I am on my second winter. Also have this version I haven't fired up yet (in the camper). Had over a year. It is a backup unit.
8kw is only 2.7btu. You'd need like 10 of those to cone close to your ventless. If you really want to eliminate your wall heater get a used gas furnace.
I got the thing for camping, I just wanted to see how it would do since I’ve seen some other videos on TH-cam of people saying it worked, I was skeptical from the get-go for that big of a space
If done correctly this could work and save you from the nauseatimg fumes of other types of heaters. I highly recommend looking into the DIY version. I have both. The DIY is my full-time heater for my 33 foot 5th wheel. The self contained version is my backup.
I’m not sure if maybe mine wasn’t up to snuff, but the label on the side said it would do 20A. It kept on dropping as soon as the unit used any current. Comp power supplies might be more sensitive to inrush than say a Meanwell LRS-350-12
It takes about 12-15 amps on start up. Unless you have a decent PS, it will drop causing a failure to ignite error code. To overcome this, you can buy a cheap golf cart voltage regulator that will keep the voltage and amperage up. I have tested this and it works. Had to do this until I wired my directly off my camper batteries. Plus I can power off my generator at night saving gas.
@@cottonpreppinpoor2709 this whole thing was just an experiment, I got the heater for cold weather camping but I wanted to see if it would take the edge out of the garage
The point of this video is, I heard many people saying they heated their shop with one of these and I wanted to experiment to see if it even had a chance. Like redneck mythbusters haha
What like those stand up ones? Lacking floor space. I got this thing for camping and decided to experiment with seeing how it would do in the garage. It’s not a huge deal that it wasn’t enough cause it was just a test. and it’s working quite nicely combined with the existing heater.
why is everyone putting the intake tube to outside?? shouldn't just the exhaust be outside and the intake somewhere inside? i would want to pull ambient air from the room and not freezing air from outside
@@tonyj5408 there’s 2 intakes. I explained it in the video. One for combustion, one for the air that gets heated. It’s the combustion air that goes outside! Otherwise you get negative air pressure and suck more cold air in anyway. Re watch the part where I explain this in painstaking detail lol
You're supposed to crack a window 1/4" when you run a ventless heater. You're starving it of air and creating carbon monoxide. You'd be surprised how well they burn when given air.
I've got enough fresh air inlets in there to equal more than a 1/4" cracked window. No seals on garage door theres between 1/8 and 1/4 all the way around the door most places anyway. doesnt change that when you kick up dust they burn orange and make fumes
I bought 2 8kw for my 2 car fully insulated garage. It was 50 degrees outside and it took 3 hours to raise the temp 10 degrees. I’m not impressed with them at all. They don’t maintain even. I had the temp up to 67 shut one off and it drop down to 63 in an hour. Mind you 50 degrees outside I’m gonna keep them and use them for my fish house
I mean they are meant to heat a car or a tent, not a full size garage. This was just an experiment for me and I largely had the same results. Although it was much colder when I did it which is harder to raise the temp. It does help my other heater get the shop warm faster though. If you had a storage container sized shop that would probably be the max.
If the temperature in your garage dropped 7° in 1 hour, then your garage is not nearly insulated as well as you think it is. It's a problem with your garage. Not a problem with these heaters. Educate yourself kid. You answered your own problem with your comment.
My neighbors propane wall unit (looks same) turns orange after it heats up. I dont like it because of the moisture. Heck im almost in a subtropical forest in southern Appalacia. Moss and lichen and black mold sees lots of opportunity here.😀 Line level ✔. Also, here's how your heater was made: th-cam.com/video/nKURE05_RPI/w-d-xo.html
They make a DIY version that allows you to mount the pump outside. I do this for my camper. The tank can move outside as well. Lastly, there is a rubber boot that goes around the pump that makes it a lot quieter.
Don't quite understand these vids. If you put a little insulation in the garage, you can heat it with one or two 1500 watt heaters. I heat mine down to the 20s this way. Gets it to the low 60s at least. And my garage door is uninsulated wood/masonite. INSULATION!
@ and by the time the hot air reaches the ground it’s not so hot anymore you need to let it rise ,trust me I have 5 diesel heaters in total all running everyday there is a big difference from air naturally moving up than being forced down just to turn around and go back up, if it rises naturally don’t need the heater set so high just to force it down, so much energy wasted but you do you and I’ll do mine, you know best
Well Canadians are the closest to me and the ones most likely to be watching my channel that use c, sorry you felt left out lol. And sorry you don’t use the superior measuring system😅🦅🦅 all that said it was meant to be a joke
@@FlawedOffroad Haaah It's all the same at -40. Diesel heaters are only about 70% efficient. I have 3 of them and only use them for tent camping and in the van. It would cost you a fortune in diesel and 10 of those heaters to get your garage to room temp if it's below freezing outside.
Good thing I didnt get the thing with heating the garage in mind. I got it for camping and decided to run a garage test for science lol. That and I heard someone at work talking about getting one to heat garage. I was a doubter from the beginning. I do believe it would eventually get it heated.@@fedorp4713
@@FlawedOffroad I use a 45,000 BTU propane heater (which is about 4.5X the output of a diesel heater) in an insulated 24x32 garage and the temp only goes up by 5 degrees after an hour. Those diesel heaters are designed for small spaces like cars and trucks, not garages. Realistically a double car garage would need a 80,000-100,000 BTU heater.
@@fedorp4713 I use to get ice forming on my garage wall when using unvented Propane. Too much moisture. Found a used Mobile Home Propane forced air furnace that was 60,000 BTU.
It does halfway decent to maintain when I heat it up with the other heater. That one I can have garage up to temperature in about 1 to 3 hours depending on how cold it is. I think in the same timeframe I only got five or 6° out of the diesel heater. Like I said this whole thing was just an experiment anyway I was never planning to rely on it
@@nonoyorbusness it’s just the combustion air that I took from outside which goes right back outside out the exhaust pipe. The air that gets heated is pulled from inside
@@FlawedOffroad Most viewers do not understand there are two air intakes. First one is for the intake to the combustion chamber and is NOT shared with the room air flow. Second one is just for the heat exchanger and does not mix with the other one. Only goes out the fan to the room.
That wouldn't be recirculating yet. The air is drawing in from outside Is used for the combustion chamber and it vents directly back outside through the exhaust. It never comes in contact with the inside of the building
@@LucasGroose it’s unbelievable how many times I have to explain this and I said it in the video. That’s only the combustion air that’s coming from outside. The air that gets heated is coming from inside because there’s two intakes. 🤦🏻♂️
Your main issue is you are airlocking your garage. You have more air pressure inisde the garage vs outside. You need a fan blowing OUT. Nothing sucking in but you need something to move air OUTSIDE. If you put the intake filter outside and cracked a window it would probably heat up better. You cant replace stagnant air with more air, you have to replace it with fresh air.
Could you expand on this? What you're saying does not sound correct, but perhaps I'm just not following you. 1. What do you mean by "airlocking" in this scenario? 2. What makes you think the air pressure inside is greater than outside? At one point in the video he mentions that you technically don't need to route the air intake outside, but he does this specifically to avoid what you're describing. Imagine that his garage was airtight; unrealistic in the real world, but just stay with me. Now imagine he had a large electric heater inside the garage. Would it not heat up the garage due to "stagnant air"? No, of course it would heat the garage, I think most people would agree with that. I'll admit, I didn't understand how these diesel heaters worked before watching a few tear-down videos. There are two distinct things happening here: Cool air is sucked into the unit from the back, blows over the outside of the combustion chamber where it's heated, then the hot air flows out of the vent in the front to heat the space. The second thing happening is that fuel is being pumped, and air is being blown into the combustion chamber and burned. This air comes in through the intake on the bottom, and exhausted through the exhaust port, also on the bottom. These two processes are mechanically separate. His air intake is already outside. If he cracked a window it would just dump heat outside, making the garage colder.
its literally just the combustion air that comes from outside, and goes right back out the exhaust. There are 2 intakes, one for combustion and one for the air that gets heated(which comes from inside on the back of the heater)
Vevor 8kw Heater: s.vevor.com/bfQORw Use 5% off code: VVMH5%OFF
Pro setup tips:
1. Move the heater to the floor (heat rises, use it to your advantage)
2.get a 10 to 20 foot copper pipe to use as your exhaust run it a couple feet away from the wall, THEN outside, the heat exchangers on these things suck! most of your heat is going out your current exhaust pipe setup.
3. Put a very low speed fan blowing along the copper exhaust pipe.
You could also use the exhaust to make a water heater with the copper pipe if you're off grid .
@@ebhsports6251 Great idea!!
There is a guy on youtube who has one of these and he is running the exhaust through a cast iron radiator and then outside, he is capturing all that exhaust heat through the radiator and then it goes outside, i might give it a try next winter.
Yeah that would work, especially if a guy was to rig up a little computer fan or something to blow over the exchanger to maximize it. I got mine mostly for camping but with the thought of using for supplemental heat for garage too so IDK if I would go through all that.
Get a wood burner stove fan... best thing ever 9n top of a steel plate on the exhaust
Do you have a link to this guy's video?
@@Reason0684 deboss garage just put a video out on this
That's actually pretty genius. Reusing the heat that could go to waste. I might try that for my cabin project.
The “Out of Context Comments” were hilarious! 🤣👍
That clip went on forever and I had to delete most of it but then I noticed the theme so I went with it lol
I have 2 of these in my workshop that is about size a double garage and a little more. Heats it from 2-3 Celsius to 18 celcius in about 35minutes. I have the remotes by my bed. I drink my coffee and then go into the shop.
It puts out great heat I’m sure it would do what I had hoped with 2 of them, or 1 of them in a 1 car without such a high ceiling that I have. I ran it a few times with my existing heater and it got warm way faster and was able to maintain 65 degrees once it was warm
Have to heat ALL the objects in the room first. Then it will maintain the temp. I use to heat a house on the weekend. First 24 hours 2 of them run full blast. Then I can start turning them down.
The 8kw version of these heaters only puts out around 3kw and some of that is sent right out the tail pipe.
Even so you could probably get better results on this heater and any other heater by tightening up your insulation , air sealing and insulating your garage door.
I was able to reduce my required heat load by 50 percent by using a cheap infrared camera and fixing the cold spots with plastic , foam, and a bit of silicone caulk .
Amazing how many people don't install the fresh combustion air intake. Thank you for that.
@@smky143 what’s more amazing is how many comments saying I did it wrong, people think that’s the air that’s getting heated for some reason even when you explain that it’s not
Some good ideas have been posted here. Lowering the unit and venting the heated air through two ducts by using a y connector and keeping it much lower to the floor is what I would do. I also would plumb it for a larger tank installed on the exterior. At that point if you have a real thermal barrier so you loose less then you produce you should be able to heat. I would install a ceiling fan on an adjustable fan speed, rotating counter clockwise on low to help move the heat. Thanks.
Thanks man, you just saved me from wasting $150 to try this in my shop.
Yeah unless your shop is real small and well insulated its not going to do much. take the edge off at best
2 of these is the best. And before when i only had 1 i boosted the room with a propane cannon to get the temperature up and then the heater would do the job rest of the day. And also, having the cap on the end of the warm air hose is really holding back air and that makes the heater warm so it slows down and the total air moved wont be so much than having it all wide open. I on the intake where the fan is removed the gitter in front. But what really made everything awesome was having 2. They stay at the same place,and just are awesome. But you need to have something under to raise it for sure. And that smell was just the heater being run in. They dont smell anything. But you smelled your garage about to burn down lol.
yeah they need to include either some sort of elbow that's low profile or make the standoffs taller. For now I just put a piece of sheet metal down under it as a heat shield
I run 2 in my container shop which is ~650 square feet. R10 on the walls, R3 on the ceiling, complete thermal break.
Dude! you went above and beyond great demonstration. I will tell you this, the flame wall heater is no good I returned my flame version for the radiant version with the fan attachment (fan sold separately) let me tell you night and day difference for the disbursement, you might want to check out trying to recoup the heat lost from the exhaust for your gain there are some videos on here for that, anyway thanks for sharing.
My wall heater has that little add on fan, its about as worthless as tits on a boar hog. My pc fan moves more air haha
Put a small fan in front of the heat duct and set it to low. your not moving air in stock form from that 3 inch tube. I use a ryobi fan. Do not run that 8KW on high for too long or your gonna get a overheat error. Run mine 24/7 and zero issues working out in the garage. Wrap your exhaust pipe with exhaust insulation tape. Use cement board between your studs for added fire safety.
For a 200% better heat exchanger, I ran my exhaust down to a welded 2 inch diameter black steel pipe radiator using T and Elbows. A 4 foot square radiator will catch a lot of heat from the exhaust. The pipes are vertical so any condensation can run outside and the bottom pipe is sloped to the outside. May get a bit of ice collected.... I also put the outside air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe together at the bottom of my radiator to preheat the intake air. Removed the stupid duct hose setup.
@@davej3487great idea
The exhaust is hot 🔥 a lot of wasted heat . I thought about doing the same thing . Getting an old heat radiator out of the old school houses around here .
Theres not much use in preheating the intake air as its only the combustion air that comes through that intake tube. The air that gets heated pulls directly in the back of the heater its room air. There are 2 intakes
Well... where to start... 1. Insulate your space 2. Its the same effect heaters 3. You have alot of cold stuff in the garage, takes a long time to acclimate 4. Keep it running on thermostats if you like or need comfort 5. It's not that difficult to learn converting celsius/Fahrenheit and kwh/but. Good luck! Yeah and finally, I run mine on 1-10 setting, usually on 5 (half effect) keeps 20°C in my shop (5kw unit).
Keep in mind this video was made over a year ago, for whatever reason it got popular a year later. My whole garage is insulated with the exception of the spot I sent the exhaust out. There used to be a door there before I moved here and it got covered up but there's only foam insulation there, no rolled. Someday Ill fix that. The whole ceiling is insulated too.
How much diesel do you burn keeping it running? What climate are you in?
Nice job buttoning down the loosey-lazy stuff and making it proper and most likely safer🎉
Yeah it was bothering me being all tangled, I’ve become a bit of a wiring snob. Now if I would just take apart my jeep and fix the wiring that 12 years ago me did 😂
The exhaust needs to go downward and the drain hole in the muffle on the opposite side of the mounting hole needs to go 👇 down. So condensation doesn't build up in your exhaust pipe . It doesn't necessarily need to go straight down it can go at a downward angle so the moisture can drain out .
Almost wonder if you attached the output to HVAC vents along your loft with a few off chutes if that would spread the heat more.
Not sure this thing has enough output to make that viable.
my basment is 24 by 56 with a 9by7 roll up door and mine keeps it nice
I’m assuming it runs nonstop or it’s at least attached to your house so it gets some residual heat from there
@@FlawedOffroadmust be insulated pretty well
3/4 in steel conduit fits inside the stock exhaust pipe to extend it.
They're also the same output, don't let the kw rating fool you.
Good tip on the exhaust. I bought a few extra exhaust pieces that I can swap around depending on where im using it
Great vid, very honest which I like - I recon this would heat my garage fine, about 1.5 car size but man that clicking sound, if that's all the time - I could not get away with that, would drive me made
Yeah its all the time. I saw another video on my feed, I did not watch it, but it was someone that found a quiet/silent fuel pump to retrofit
Theoretically a 8kw heater is 27000 btu. It takes 20 btu per sq ft to heat. Ymmv.
I have a 676 sq ft insulated garage space and i am considering one of these to heat it. I run a 4800w heater on the woodshop side which is 300 sq ft. It is great for that space.
Id drink a beer with this guy and solve woke issues
It’s funner creating work issues while drinking lol
You Buying? Haha
very in depth video . better than other videos about this heater
Thanks. I was not expecting this to get viewed so much, It was just a little experiment but I'm glad it's helpful.
can you build wall brace outside and put it outside with intake and output in the gargage.
you could but I think it would be much less efficient(heat loss)
So I think the intake should be lower than the exhaust with as much separation as reasonably possible!
Does the intake need to be outside? Wouldn’t it be more effective to have the intake pull the garage air?
@@JustlnGorman it’s only the combustion intake that’s outside. The air that gets heated does pull from inside. There’s two different intakes
8kw is about 27,300 btu/hour. That is input not output. Output is 27,300 X efficiency of the heater. If exhaust is ~250 degrees probably around 70-80% efficient. 27,300 X .75 = 20,500 btu output.
I've had a few suggestions of running the exhaust through a radiator of sorts to leech all the heat out of it. Pretty good idea on a permanent install.
@@FlawedOffroadrun the exhaust through an old EGR cooler and run the liquid through a radiator
I just ordered 2 different 8kw heaters to compare them. I have a 2 car garage I’m going to try and heat. Any pointers would be great. This will be my first experience with them. I’ve had propane and kerosene heaters in the past
@@khoun261 I’d start with reading the comments on this video, I’ve had so many good suggestions. The main one being run the exhaust through some sort of heat exchanger to capture the wasted heat and to keep the heaters low to ground
@@FlawedOffroadi ran mine though a radiator made for a out door wood burner. The out let is cold. it sinks away all that wasted heat. I have a small box fan behind it and it works great.😂
use a torpedo heater running kero to get the temps up, then run the vevor to maintain.
Nice install but you really didn't need to run your intake outside next to exhaust
You can choose to do it wrong if you want to but there’s a reason why basically every heat system ever does this and I explained it in the video. Walk downstairs and look at your furnace, it sends the combustion intake outside also. It’s not the intake for the air blowing across the heater.
For every cubic foot of hot exhaust expelled outside, the room must draw in that exact amount of COLD air, defeating the efficiency. Why heat cold replacement air when you can draw in outside air?
It's not a 1 to 1 loss of efficiency. If it were no standard forced air household unit would work. I see what you are saying about improving efficiency. I am working on creating a contained radiator for the exhaust to heat water when I winter camp. They make expensive and complex water heaters for these already, but all that I have seen use the heated air versus the exhaust air.
Find ya a old radiator from a central heat or drain the oil outa a space heater radiator n run the exhaust through it before goin outside
@@cottonpreppinpoor2709 that’s actually a pretty wicked idea. If I was relying on this thing to be my main heat source I would probably go do it but realistically this was just an experiment
How do you prime that heater with that specific controler?
@@walleyeye don’t recall. Pretty sure it self primes when powered on
Priming function on works on initial power up. Drove me nuts for hours as I have the DIY version and my tank and pump are outside my camper. The best I came up with is power it on, turn it one, the pump eventually starts ticking, wait a minute or so, turn it off, and start the whole process until you see fuel in the line. In have both versions, DIY (love) and the self contained version like this one. I have yet to fire up the self contained version (been a year). Also if you are having problems, switch the fuel line out for hard plastic fuel line. The soft rubber expands and contracts which is counter productive tongue pump trying to work.
Heated mine right up
Measure it with a micrometer, draw it with a piece of chalk, cut it with an ax.
“Bald eagle units to maple syrup units” lol
Sooner or later I figured someone would appreciate that haha
Do yourself a favor and get a hotdog heater by Modine it runs on propane or natural gas it’ll have your garage if it’s 20 outside it’ll have your garage up to 70° inside of 15 to 20 minutes no problem at all, insulated garage of course! I had one for years in a 2 1/2 car garage 10 foot ceiling. I Moved to a warmer climate then moved back to a colder climate different garage but I’m gonna be putting one in my garage by next winter. I will Able to walk out into my garage and turn it on and be warm in a T-shirt working. good luck on your project!
I have had one before and a kerosene version, i always had to open a door cause the fumes gave me headaches. Which kind of defeats the purpose
The Modine hotdog heater has a heat exchanger just like your furnace in the house. It puts out zero fumes.
@@robertherbert1306 i thought you were referring to the torpedo heaters
I looked it up, and it's almost $1000
Run the exhaust through a heat exchanger and put a fan behind it.
I had the same experience. The only difference is my unit is mounted outside, with insulated ducts for cold and hot air being pumped in/out of garage. Even warming up the entire garage with a propane torpedo heater, the diesel heater couldn't keep the garage a decent temperature.
Mine worked pretty decent to maintain the temp after I warmed it up with both. I mostly bought it for camping, this was just a test to see if it would do it
LxWxH of room x 6 for BTU or x 0.0606 for kW. You probably need 250-300 kW to heat that garage proficiently
I didn’t realize that part of the video had adult content in it as well. All was good till 14:40 and then it started to go all weird. LOL
@@theone1347 it’s only inappropriate if you let your mind make it that way🤣
@ Yes, absolutely correct. It so happened that I was more listening to it rather than watching the video and it just sounds so wrong. lol
What's the Sq. Ft. of the garage? , Also, remember that all the steel in the garage has to be heated up as well.
think its about 22x24 or somewhere around that.
What is the constant ticking noise?
Pretty sure I mentioned its the fuel pump. Most of these diesel heaters are like that, Ive heard there are silent pump upgrades
@FlawedOffroad thank you, I was thinking of buying one but if it ticks like that constantly, it would drive me nuts.
Get the DIY version and mount the tank and pump outside like I did. Only thing bothered by the ticking are the wildlife animals. Plus with the tank outside, you don't have to worry about spilling diesel.
These are not 8kw - actual output is only 4kw. Having said that they are brilliant value. I run 3 of them on kerosene. One has over 5000 hours of use and still going strong.
around here kerosene is stupid expensive compared to diesel. does it burn longer or what reason are you using it?
@@FlawedOffroad
@FlawedOffroad
Kerosene is much cheaper than diesel in the UK due to our taxes. Without the tax they work out the same here. Kerosene is cleaner burning but has a slightly lower heat output. Not much difference really.
@@codprawn Here we can get #2 stove diesel oil without road tax. It is dyed different so if you get caught running it in a car or truck the fines can be harsh. Road diesel runs about $4.60 US$ for a US Gallon, 3.8L.
@@davej3487@davej3487
Our current price in the UK for road diesel is $6.64! People blame the oil companies. Itis government taxes that are the real rip off!
Our heating oil/kerosene is currently equal to $2.77 per us gallon.
I need an update on how it worked and some tricks you ended up doing
Just watch the whole video to see how it worked, I did several tests
Love mine. Heats my entire 33 foot 5th wheel with 2 slides. Super efficient. I am on my second winter. Also have this version I haven't fired up yet (in the camper). Had over a year. It is a backup unit.
8kw is only 2.7btu. You'd need like 10 of those to cone close to your ventless. If you really want to eliminate your wall heater get a used gas furnace.
I got the thing for camping, I just wanted to see how it would do since I’ve seen some other videos on TH-cam of people saying it worked, I was skeptical from the get-go for that big of a space
These are actually only 4kw - still brilliant value though.
I have the same problem as you with the propane heat in my shop when I’m making dust. The headache I get from it is pretty nasty.
Sometimes I run a box fan with an air filter tape to the back next to where I’m grinding to catch most of the dust
If done correctly this could work and save you from the nauseatimg fumes of other types of heaters. I highly recommend looking into the DIY version. I have both. The DIY is my full-time heater for my 33 foot 5th wheel. The self contained version is my backup.
A desktop computer power supply puts out 12v on some of the outputs and 5v on others.... Just so you know
Suppose I have a few old legacy psu's laying in a tote somewhere, I used to build pcs for people
I’m not sure if maybe mine wasn’t up to snuff, but the label on the side said it would do 20A. It kept on dropping as soon as the unit used any current.
Comp power supplies might be more sensitive to inrush than say a Meanwell LRS-350-12
It takes about 12-15 amps on start up. Unless you have a decent PS, it will drop causing a failure to ignite error code. To overcome this, you can buy a cheap golf cart voltage regulator that will keep the voltage and amperage up. I have tested this and it works. Had to do this until I wired my directly off my camper batteries. Plus I can power off my generator at night saving gas.
Volume, a lighter is hot too but not near enough to heat a room
@@cottonpreppinpoor2709 this whole thing was just an experiment, I got the heater for cold weather camping but I wanted to see if it would take the edge out of the garage
It's purpose is for vehicles . It's a parking heater. It will warm a semi truck no problem. The garage is to big with to many air leaks
The point of this video is, I heard many people saying they heated their shop with one of these and I wanted to experiment to see if it even had a chance. Like redneck mythbusters haha
@FlawedOffroad oh I enjoyed the video. Was informative.
Maybe good for heating a tent??
This thing will burn you out of a tent it puts out quite a bit of heat. This was just an experiment
Fuel pump is supposed to be mounted at a 30⁰ angle.
U missed the part of how u hooked the bottom could be confusing for some but good video
@@Akira-gi6vz it was a pain in the ass, there’s not enough room to do it properly but I made it work
Definitely if you run a exhaust heat exchanger you get more out that unit..
Have you ever tried a patio heater? Just an idea…
What like those stand up ones? Lacking floor space. I got this thing for camping and decided to experiment with seeing how it would do in the garage. It’s not a huge deal that it wasn’t enough cause it was just a test. and it’s working quite nicely combined with the existing heater.
why is everyone putting the intake tube to outside?? shouldn't just the exhaust be outside and the intake somewhere inside? i would want to pull ambient air from the room and not freezing air from outside
@@tonyj5408 there’s 2 intakes. I explained it in the video. One for combustion, one for the air that gets heated. It’s the combustion air that goes outside! Otherwise you get negative air pressure and suck more cold air in anyway. Re watch the part where I explain this in painstaking detail lol
1 kwh = 3400 BTU. 5k and "8k" are about 17,000 BTU.
8kw is 27297.136btus according to Google
I can promise you there's no way this thing is equal to that much output though! I think they are fudging the numbers on their KW rating
You're supposed to crack a window 1/4" when you run a ventless heater. You're starving it of air and creating carbon monoxide. You'd be surprised how well they burn when given air.
I've got enough fresh air inlets in there to equal more than a 1/4" cracked window. No seals on garage door theres between 1/8 and 1/4 all the way around the door most places anyway. doesnt change that when you kick up dust they burn orange and make fumes
Let it run for 3 or 4 days and see if it gets on top of it.
17°F - 32°F x 5/9 = - 8C°
°C = (°F - 32) * (5/9)
°F = (°C * 9/5) + 32
Can you set a time stamp on where we can see if this thing actually works or not? Instead of deconstructing it.
Just plug it in and use it!
Dude look in the description box below the video, I did make time stamps FFS
A 30 minute rambling long video that never gets to the point! Just what I was looking for!
And you clicked it anyway. 😘 You know I put in chapters so you short attention span folk could skip right to the results.
@@FlawedOffroad That would be great, thanks!
I can almost smell the oil in your garage... 😀
@@norrisheckwine7439 not sure if that’s a compliment or an insult but you’re not wrong lol.
I bought 2 8kw for my 2 car fully insulated garage. It was 50 degrees outside and it took 3 hours to raise the temp 10 degrees. I’m not impressed with them at all. They don’t maintain even. I had the temp up to 67 shut one off and it drop down to 63 in an hour. Mind you 50 degrees outside I’m gonna keep them and use them for my fish house
I mean they are meant to heat a car or a tent, not a full size garage. This was just an experiment for me and I largely had the same results. Although it was much colder when I did it which is harder to raise the temp. It does help my other heater get the shop warm faster though. If you had a storage container sized shop that would probably be the max.
If the temperature in your garage dropped 7° in 1 hour, then your garage is not nearly insulated as well as you think it is. It's a problem with your garage. Not a problem with these heaters. Educate yourself kid. You answered your own problem with your comment.
My neighbors propane wall unit (looks same) turns orange after it heats up. I dont like it because of the moisture. Heck im almost in a subtropical forest in southern Appalacia. Moss and lichen and black mold sees lots of opportunity here.😀 Line level ✔. Also, here's how your heater was made: th-cam.com/video/nKURE05_RPI/w-d-xo.html
That clicking is a deal breaker for me
@@MudMonsterRacing4 I’ve heard you can get silent pumps for them.
Unless you're freezing your ass off
@@talusranch990 There's plenty of other ways to heat.
They make a DIY version that allows you to mount the pump outside. I do this for my camper. The tank can move outside as well. Lastly, there is a rubber boot that goes around the pump that makes it a lot quieter.
DEBOSS garage disassembled an 8 and 5 kw one of these and found little to no difference. Just saying
Its probably just the size/power of the glow plug and the jet(or whatever the fuel metering equivalent is in one of these things)
@ no he removed that as well and it was the same. He fully disassembled both units and compared
@ th-cam.com/video/XfzCeXlDq0A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9_Dc-DG6OiH3SGJn
@ posted the video for you to watch
17F = -8.333 °C
Don't quite understand these vids. If you put a little insulation in the garage, you can heat it with one or two 1500 watt heaters. I heat mine down to the 20s this way. Gets it to the low 60s at least. And my garage door is uninsulated wood/masonite. INSULATION!
@@roadrunner3563 I don’t know if you looked around anywhere during the video the entire garage is insulated including the roof lol
I would have tested before putting a hole in my wall😂
I have 2 future projects that require said holes so they will be dual purpose haha. If I ever get around to it.
Hilarious!!😂 Thanks kids.
Kids, shoot I just turned 40 haha
Your wasting so much heat/time with the heater so high up, you need it as low as possible for best results and quicker heat time
The hot air is blowing down!
@ and by the time the hot air reaches the ground it’s not so hot anymore you need to let it rise ,trust me I have 5 diesel heaters in total all running everyday there is a big difference from air naturally moving up than being forced down just to turn around and go back up, if it rises naturally don’t need the heater set so high just to force it down, so much energy wasted but you do you and I’ll do mine, you know best
This was never meant to be a permanent install, just an experiment so I went with the most convenient spot.
@FlawedOffroad there a great heater to have, it's just some friendly advice that's all
When it comes to F vs C. It's not fore those in Canada.... It's for those in the rest of the world. Have a think about that...
Well Canadians are the closest to me and the ones most likely to be watching my channel that use c, sorry you felt left out lol. And sorry you don’t use the superior measuring system😅🦅🦅 all that said it was meant to be a joke
@@FlawedOffroad Haaah It's all the same at -40. Diesel heaters are only about 70% efficient. I have 3 of them and only use them for tent camping and in the van. It would cost you a fortune in diesel and 10 of those heaters to get your garage to room temp if it's below freezing outside.
Good thing I didnt get the thing with heating the garage in mind. I got it for camping and decided to run a garage test for science lol. That and I heard someone at work talking about getting one to heat garage. I was a doubter from the beginning. I do believe it would eventually get it heated.@@fedorp4713
@@FlawedOffroad I use a 45,000 BTU propane heater (which is about 4.5X the output of a diesel heater) in an insulated 24x32 garage and the temp only goes up by 5 degrees after an hour. Those diesel heaters are designed for small spaces like cars and trucks, not garages. Realistically a double car garage would need a 80,000-100,000 BTU heater.
@@fedorp4713 I use to get ice forming on my garage wall when using unvented Propane. Too much moisture. Found a used Mobile Home Propane forced air furnace that was 60,000 BTU.
You garage is cold soaked. If it's up to temp... so yeah it will take 24 hours to get it up to temp.
It does halfway decent to maintain when I heat it up with the other heater. That one I can have garage up to temperature in about 1 to 3 hours depending on how cold it is. I think in the same timeframe I only got five or 6° out of the diesel heater. Like I said this whole thing was just an experiment anyway I was never planning to rely on it
Take heat outlet tube off you got it too bent !!!
Add hottest peppers to the fuel after fermentation.
no way.
Too big an area
Don't take the cold air from outside, take the air from inside and recirculate it.
@@nonoyorbusness it’s just the combustion air that I took from outside which goes right back outside out the exhaust pipe. The air that gets heated is pulled from inside
@@FlawedOffroad Most viewers do not understand there are two air intakes.
First one is for the intake to the combustion chamber and is NOT shared with the room air flow.
Second one is just for the heat exchanger and does not mix with the other one. Only goes out the fan to the room.
Incorrect
That wouldn't be recirculating yet. The air is drawing in from outside Is used for the combustion chamber and it vents directly back outside through the exhaust. It never comes in contact with the inside of the building
get a heat pump
I actually have always wanted a hotel heat/ac wall unit. Not too different from a mini split. I think either one would work well.
Wow. 5% off. Generous..
Better than 0? Wasn’t meant to be a sales pitch, I just asked vevor if they had a coupon
Why not draw in the shop air? No need to draw in the cold outside air. Then the heater doesn’t have to work so hard
@@LucasGroose it’s unbelievable how many times I have to explain this and I said it in the video. That’s only the combustion air that’s coming from outside. The air that gets heated is coming from inside because there’s two intakes. 🤦🏻♂️
Your main issue is you are airlocking your garage. You have more air pressure inisde the garage vs outside. You need a fan blowing OUT. Nothing sucking in but you need something to move air OUTSIDE. If you put the intake filter outside and cracked a window it would probably heat up better. You cant replace stagnant air with more air, you have to replace it with fresh air.
Could you expand on this? What you're saying does not sound correct, but perhaps I'm just not following you.
1. What do you mean by "airlocking" in this scenario?
2. What makes you think the air pressure inside is greater than outside? At one point in the video he mentions that you technically don't need to route the air intake outside, but he does this specifically to avoid what you're describing.
Imagine that his garage was airtight; unrealistic in the real world, but just stay with me. Now imagine he had a large electric heater inside the garage. Would it not heat up the garage due to "stagnant air"? No, of course it would heat the garage, I think most people would agree with that.
I'll admit, I didn't understand how these diesel heaters worked before watching a few tear-down videos. There are two distinct things happening here: Cool air is sucked into the unit from the back, blows over the outside of the combustion chamber where it's heated, then the hot air flows out of the vent in the front to heat the space. The second thing happening is that fuel is being pumped, and air is being blown into the combustion chamber and burned. This air comes in through the intake on the bottom, and exhausted through the exhaust port, also on the bottom. These two processes are mechanically separate.
His air intake is already outside. If he cracked a window it would just dump heat outside, making the garage colder.
its literally just the combustion air that comes from outside, and goes right back out the exhaust. There are 2 intakes, one for combustion and one for the air that gets heated(which comes from inside on the back of the heater)
there shit dont buy