Nice!! That top is gorgeous!! I've made a couple bodies like this now. I got an extra long straight bit for my router specifically for this, and made a custom base out of acrylic that's 2 to 3 times as wide as the router itself. It spans gaps like this and is absolutely phenomenal for cleaning up chambers. And since the base is acrylic, I have full view of where I am headed while I am routing away. I HIGHLY recommend anyone else trying to make chambered bodies to make a similar base, it is a game changer. It's even nice for routing pickup and control cavities, the router is basically impossible to accidentally tip into the material, and having the clear base is just plain nice (the original base on mine is clear, but there are multiple mounting holes, so it is not exactly easy to see through)
Great looking build. I was cringing all the way through the routing of the inside though. I use a similar size trimmer for jobs like that. What I have made is a clear perspex base that I swap out the factory one that give me a foot square base for keeping it stable on the thinnest side walls. Better still is the rail mounted trimmer fence. Perfect for so many levelling tasks. Great share but. Can't wait to see this bass finished.
Dang, ain't this just turning into a gorgeous little beast! Not that I hope for problems/complications on your end, but one of the most satisfying part of these builds for me is watching you hit a stumbling block, only to engineer some perfectly simple solution. That little missing walnut wedge getting glued into the top was just *chef's kiss*
Oh, don't worry, I'm having an issue. The pickup I made yesterday has a dead coil and the simple solution is to suck it up and start again. Or I could just buy one...I have the NZ distributor for Bartolini on speed-dial...genuinely conflicted.
@@fanbladeinstruments Sure, you could just order a pickup, but where's the fun in that? Until now all of the ones you've made and shown in your videos sound killer. 👍
Don't worry, the Fanblade custom pickup is built, and this one has additional wiring options. I have lost a couple of days though, I was supposed to carve the neck on Wednesday but only got to it this afternoon. Essentially, the bass is going to be super epic in every way at the expense of the schedule I set....I'll take that deal🤣
I think I’ve found my new favourite channel … subscribed. How on earth you’ve become an accomplished multi-instrumentalist AND luthier )and goodness what else you do) in one lifetime makes me assume you’re 110. Fantastic channel … look forward to exploring it 😜👍🏼
Thank you so much, that's really nice of you to say. It's really all about ambition, I set very high standards for myself and work hard, but whatever things I may have already accomplished there's always a next level to progress too. It'll probably take me till I'm 110 to learn how to play Firth Of Fifth properly 😉 Cheers
That kwila is pretty good neck material. Stiffer than hard maple and only a little heavier. Great build, Geoff. I didn't realize that I need a semi-hollow bass, until just now. 😊
I love it, it's easy to carve, stiff and stable, glues and finishes nicely. It can be quite variable in colour though, and occasionally like to twist when cutting it, but if the grain is nice and even it's a joy to work with. That big block is quartersawn too, couldn't believe my luck when I found it, already had 5 bass necks and two upright fingerboards out of it, probably get another 5 necks before I need to go shopping again😁
A suggestion: you could use a flush trim bit with the bearing on the shaft side, as well as an enlarged base plate for your router. That would make the scary operation at the beginning of the video almost impossible to mess up.
Fun story: The only flush trim bit with the bearing on the right end that I've ever owned was a few years ago, special order, but couldn't source one with a 1/4" shaft. I had to buy a new router with a 1/2" collet. It was a fully industrial Hitachi, without a speed controller (weirdly), and I got it for a good price on the second hand market. The death monster that arrived was twice the size and about 9 times the power that anyone rightly needs for anything wood based, how it wasn't a three phase machine is a mystery. I inserted my new bit. I checked the depth and the workpiece. I turned it on. All I remember of the following 2 seconds is a white hot flash of pure terror, and instantly I was standing over the other side of the garage having cut the mains power, this damn thing was screaming and shaking as if it was possessed with the all the demons of GG Allen, and I literally took off in fear of my life. My partner phoned from the house to ask what the noise was and was I alright? I think the spindle/collet must've been unbalanced, just a big fat bag of nope. I never turned it on again, I wrote off the money and gave it to a friend to repurpose the motor. I still have the bit, but I'm never buying another second hand router,
Why not glue the centre chip on before splitting the top? Also could be easier to glue the face together before arching. With the headface veneer it is easy and tidy to cut the rod pocket hole and an angle for the nut pocket before glueing on . Can use the tuning machine centres to pin the veneer exactly in place. F - holes . Sand the eyes but the long sides are best done with a sharp knife. Good work fella. I've been watching the whole thing.
Looking awesome, loving that walnut top! Curious do you not have an oversized acrylic base for your router? Would make routing out the body a lot easier and great in a router sled 👍
This bass body is looking good! I have an inquiry, not a critique, regarding your routing, which you may have addressed this in your previous video and I don't remember. If you are trying to save weight, why didn't you clean up/straighten the center block? I think that would have helped remove a few more grams?
The center block gets wider for the neck, pickup, and bridge, then I took out a little extra weight between them. It's very deliberately that shape, designed and templated. You've got to give the hardare a wide berth. Cheers.
@@fanbladeinstruments Thanks for the reply. I figured there was reasoning behind your decisions, I just wasn't sure what they were. I appreciate you taking the time to help me understand. I'm looking forward to your next installment! 🙂
(Excuse the question from one who, to date, is merely router-curious.) Am I correct that you’ve used a round-over bit (what radius?) deeply around the top to create both the base arch and the rebate for inner carving in one step? - Paul
Yes, and yes. 9.5mm round over bit. When you're taking such a deep cut like that you do run the risk of tearout, but if you're careful with feeds and speeds and have a nice sharp blade then you can get away with quite a lot. That doesn't mean I wasn't nervous as hell going into it, really glad I didn't mess that up. Cheers
I have no opinion on any specific species, I take each plank on it's own merits. The issue is that labeling a species to be good or bad negates a lot of the specifics, eg: is Pine good or bad? There are over 100 species of pine worldwide and some are better than others. Same with Oak, Poplar, Mahogany, Maple, Rosewood and literally every other type of wood. Even the names are largely meaningless, Spanish Cedar = Sapele = a variety of Mahogany, but regular Cedar is a variety of Pine so who knows? I've read where Agathis is another name for Kauri, and again where Agathis is another name for Alder. Does this mean that Kauri is Alder now? They share similar properties but no, they're not the same. I love working with both Kauri and Alder, so I guess that means I would be a fan of Agathis although I've never used a piece that I've knowingly called by that name. So yeah, you look at each and every piece of wood as an individual, you read the grain, you weigh it and measure it's moisture content, and you'll soon figure out which pieces will make a great instrument. Species is very rarely a factor for me in deciding what to use, I'm looking for maximum stiffness with minimal weight, and if it looks good then that's nice too. Hope that helps, thanks.
Nice!! That top is gorgeous!! I've made a couple bodies like this now. I got an extra long straight bit for my router specifically for this, and made a custom base out of acrylic that's 2 to 3 times as wide as the router itself. It spans gaps like this and is absolutely phenomenal for cleaning up chambers. And since the base is acrylic, I have full view of where I am headed while I am routing away. I HIGHLY recommend anyone else trying to make chambered bodies to make a similar base, it is a game changer. It's even nice for routing pickup and control cavities, the router is basically impossible to accidentally tip into the material, and having the clear base is just plain nice (the original base on mine is clear, but there are multiple mounting holes, so it is not exactly easy to see through)
Great looking build. I was cringing all the way through the routing of the inside though. I use a similar size trimmer for jobs like that. What I have made is a clear perspex base that I swap out the factory one that give me a foot square base for keeping it stable on the thinnest side walls. Better still is the rail mounted trimmer fence. Perfect for so many levelling tasks. Great share but. Can't wait to see this bass finished.
Dang, ain't this just turning into a gorgeous little beast! Not that I hope for problems/complications on your end, but one of the most satisfying part of these builds for me is watching you hit a stumbling block, only to engineer some perfectly simple solution. That little missing walnut wedge getting glued into the top was just *chef's kiss*
Oh, don't worry, I'm having an issue. The pickup I made yesterday has a dead coil and the simple solution is to suck it up and start again. Or I could just buy one...I have the NZ distributor for Bartolini on speed-dial...genuinely conflicted.
@@fanbladeinstruments Sure, you could just order a pickup, but where's the fun in that? Until now all of the ones you've made and shown in your videos sound killer. 👍
I've never loved Barts personally, so I'm definitely rooting for another Fanblade original design :)
Don't worry, the Fanblade custom pickup is built, and this one has additional wiring options. I have lost a couple of days though, I was supposed to carve the neck on Wednesday but only got to it this afternoon. Essentially, the bass is going to be super epic in every way at the expense of the schedule I set....I'll take that deal🤣
@@fanbladeinstruments Can't wait to see it. 😁👍
Have you considered a router plane? It wouldn’t be as cumbersome as a router and less dangerous.
I think I’ve found my new favourite channel … subscribed. How on earth you’ve become an accomplished multi-instrumentalist AND luthier )and goodness what else you do) in one lifetime makes me assume you’re 110. Fantastic channel … look forward to exploring it 😜👍🏼
Thank you so much, that's really nice of you to say. It's really all about ambition, I set very high standards for myself and work hard, but whatever things I may have already accomplished there's always a next level to progress too. It'll probably take me till I'm 110 to learn how to play Firth Of Fifth properly 😉 Cheers
Love the build and the idea behind it
Resawing is the biggest pain in the butt. You seem to pull it off with ease. Salute !
That kwila is pretty good neck material. Stiffer than hard maple and only a little heavier. Great build, Geoff.
I didn't realize that I need a semi-hollow bass, until just now. 😊
I love it, it's easy to carve, stiff and stable, glues and finishes nicely. It can be quite variable in colour though, and occasionally like to twist when cutting it, but if the grain is nice and even it's a joy to work with. That big block is quartersawn too, couldn't believe my luck when I found it, already had 5 bass necks and two upright fingerboards out of it, probably get another 5 necks before I need to go shopping again😁
A suggestion: you could use a flush trim bit with the bearing on the shaft side, as well as an enlarged base plate for your router. That would make the scary operation at the beginning of the video almost impossible to mess up.
Fun story: The only flush trim bit with the bearing on the right end that I've ever owned was a few years ago, special order, but couldn't source one with a 1/4" shaft. I had to buy a new router with a 1/2" collet. It was a fully industrial Hitachi, without a speed controller (weirdly), and I got it for a good price on the second hand market. The death monster that arrived was twice the size and about 9 times the power that anyone rightly needs for anything wood based, how it wasn't a three phase machine is a mystery.
I inserted my new bit.
I checked the depth and the workpiece.
I turned it on.
All I remember of the following 2 seconds is a white hot flash of pure terror, and instantly I was standing over the other side of the garage having cut the mains power, this damn thing was screaming and shaking as if it was possessed with the all the demons of GG Allen, and I literally took off in fear of my life. My partner phoned from the house to ask what the noise was and was I alright? I think the spindle/collet must've been unbalanced, just a big fat bag of nope. I never turned it on again, I wrote off the money and gave it to a friend to repurpose the motor. I still have the bit, but I'm never buying another second hand router,
@@fanbladeinstruments Ok. I see the issue... Stay safe! 👍
It's funny I was just thinking a week or two ago that I wanted to build a semi hollow guitar, and than you made this. Cheers!
Why not glue the centre chip on before splitting the top?
Also could be easier to glue the face together before arching.
With the headface veneer it is easy and tidy to cut the rod pocket hole and an angle for the nut pocket before glueing on . Can use the tuning machine centres to pin the veneer exactly in place.
F - holes . Sand the eyes but the long sides are best done with a sharp knife.
Good work fella. I've been watching the whole thing.
Looking awesome, loving that walnut top! Curious do you not have an oversized acrylic base for your router? Would make routing out the body a lot easier and great in a router sled 👍
yep.I thought exactly the same. Would have made the internal cleanup a whole lot less variable!
Please tell me you’re doing 2 machine heads per side , and not 4 in a line
Pfffft, of course! What sort of monster do you take me for?😜
top wood = tone wood
the thickness of the wood need "１cm" at least
All wood = tonewood. That term and that debate is banned from this channel, thank you for understanding.
This bass body is looking good!
I have an inquiry, not a critique, regarding your routing, which you may have addressed this in your previous video and I don't remember. If you are trying to save weight, why didn't you clean up/straighten the center block? I think that would have helped remove a few more grams?
The center block gets wider for the neck, pickup, and bridge, then I took out a little extra weight between them. It's very deliberately that shape, designed and templated. You've got to give the hardare a wide berth. Cheers.
@@fanbladeinstruments Thanks for the reply. I figured there was reasoning behind your decisions, I just wasn't sure what they were. I appreciate you taking the time to help me understand. I'm looking forward to your next installment! 🙂
(Excuse the question from one who, to date, is merely router-curious.) Am I correct that you’ve used a round-over bit (what radius?) deeply around the top to create both the base arch and the rebate for inner carving in one step?
- Paul
Yes, and yes. 9.5mm round over bit. When you're taking such a deep cut like that you do run the risk of tearout, but if you're careful with feeds and speeds and have a nice sharp blade then you can get away with quite a lot. That doesn't mean I wasn't nervous as hell going into it, really glad I didn't mess that up. Cheers
What is your opinion on Agathis wood for a body? I know it uses low-end Asian basses. Thank you, cheers.
I have no opinion on any specific species, I take each plank on it's own merits. The issue is that labeling a species to be good or bad negates a lot of the specifics, eg: is Pine good or bad? There are over 100 species of pine worldwide and some are better than others. Same with Oak, Poplar, Mahogany, Maple, Rosewood and literally every other type of wood.
Even the names are largely meaningless, Spanish Cedar = Sapele = a variety of Mahogany, but regular Cedar is a variety of Pine so who knows? I've read where Agathis is another name for Kauri, and again where Agathis is another name for Alder. Does this mean that Kauri is Alder now? They share similar properties but no, they're not the same. I love working with both Kauri and Alder, so I guess that means I would be a fan of Agathis although I've never used a piece that I've knowingly called by that name.
So yeah, you look at each and every piece of wood as an individual, you read the grain, you weigh it and measure it's moisture content, and you'll soon figure out which pieces will make a great instrument. Species is very rarely a factor for me in deciding what to use, I'm looking for maximum stiffness with minimal weight, and if it looks good then that's nice too. Hope that helps, thanks.