Global Cycling Network - even on SRAM, get into the habit of changing chain rings when in the middle of the cassette - cross chaining may be allowed, but it is still inefficient
Ride like a manual car. When you change gear, whether it's on a wattage bazooka or coffee cruise, let off power and then shift. I hear a lot of experienced riders grinding gears and they are hurting their already skinny wallets. Save your components and let off a little.
(Charlie) Many Amerikanz don't know no gear shifting :) They are the primary target for bike produce selling, but might not get your very precise comparison. I am hearing that click and grind noise most of the time playing green light sprint during (otherwise pretty boring) commute.
I have ridden a fix gear bike for over ten years. Now that I have decided to challenge myself more, I decided to buy a road bike. Not knowing a single thing about gears and already a fan of your guy's work, I turned to you for information. thank you! This is helpful!
As explained in the video, changing chainrings should always be accompanied by a "counter-shift", that is, shifting up to a bigger chainring should be accompanied by a comparable downshift on the cassette and vice versa, usually at least two cogs, although this can change under certain conditions. When I change chainrings, I always think "Easier, then harder", that is, I do the shift that makes pedaling easier before doing the one that makes it harder. This way, I don't rob my legs of momentum. The nice thing about counter-shifting is that it always involves the same levers on both hands: When shifting to the big chainring, both shifts are done with the brake levers and when shifting to the small chainring, both shifts are done with the paddles. If you subscribe to my "easier, then harder" technique, the order will change. When shifting up to the big chainring, start by downshifting on the right brake lever (two cogs or whatever) and then upshift on the left brake lever. When shifting down to the small chainring, it's the opposite--start by downshifting to the small chainring on the left paddle and then shift up (two cogs or whatever) on the right paddle. (There is much debate about whether the chainring and cog shift can be done simultaneously. I prefer to do them consecutively as I don't like the idea of both ends of my chain being in transition at the same time. I'm no mechanic but this seems to beg for trouble.) With practice, these motions can be executed smoothly and quickly to minimize the time spent shifting chainrings when you have to lighten up on the pedals. This is my own technique, formulated and refined over several years of observation and experimentation. I welcome any comments and arguments.
Question for you, is there any danger when either side of the chain is in the transition area that it go halfway and get tangled? It seems like this equipment is made pretty fool proof, that you’ll either shift, or if the indexing Is improperly calibrated, you simply won’t change gears at all. I’ve never heard about the chain coming like halfway off the wheel or something. It always has to land somewhere.
@@ktrock77 Like I said, I'm no mechanic, but certainly there have been times when I've been biking when something didn't mesh quite right on a shift. Sometimes you hit the shifter and nothing changes, sometimes it moves but the chain doesn't mesh quite right with the cog or chain ring which is probably a sign of a drivetrain problem like a stretched chain or worn cogs or chain rings. I have rarely had a dropped chain but I'd prefer a dropped chain--which is easy to fix--to other problems.
It's the Millionaire / Billionaire edition of "A Beginner's Guide." Afterall, what Saudi Prince wants to look foolish during their riding lessons with a current UCI road champion.
Great video! The filming is top-notch - I appreciate the alternate views of the shifting and the actual gears in action, along with the rider diagrams. Also... holy hell... you narrated that whole thing on that long climb.... I don't much enjoy changing my gears - but I see it's worth learning how to do well
1. Changing gears at load on the back is fairly harmless, especially on the road. 2. Cross chaining, when done sporadically, is also harmless. 3. Changing gears at load at the front from small to big is nigh impossible, technically 4. Changing gears at load at the front from big to small requires a bit of a finesse, but is certainly doable.
I think I understood......in principle, now to put it into practice! New to biking and the wrong side of 50!! More advice on gears is massively appreciated. Using shimano claris
For those commenters who complain that this video is too elementary, don't worry, an upcoming video will demonstrate how to install a kickstand on one's TT bike.
I've been watching your video's for over 8 months. I love your content it's amazing and all your riders are so funny. I just bought my first road bike and I'm loving it!!! Keep up the amazing videos you are the best. :D
I've been riding a hybrid bike now for a couple of years I love how comfortable it is. But I really need a road bike as my new job requires me to travel around inner city, I was thinking about getting a road bike but having never used one before the gear system seems quite daunting to me. Any recommendations on a beginners road bike, also what gear system is easier for a noob like me?
I have 3X7 gear system. When Im on 2 and 7, and I know its time to upshift to 3 on the front, I downshift the back to 5 from 7 and then upshift from 2 to 3 on the front. This makes the jump a lot easier. Was this the pro tip that he was trying to explain?
I'm doing a 33 mile marathon this week and I borrowed a Jamis from a friend and I'm trying to figure out when to change gears to what for each situation
3 day bike beginner here: Mine has 2 gears in the front. Is it bad to only change the front gear? What I mean by that is that I don't know if the big jump from the small to the big gear in the front(or vice versa) damages the chain or something. I leave the rear gear on the 6th smallest one(of 8) gear always for downhill and flat road riding(no difference for me. I've done stationary bike for too long), and only change the front one to the small gear uphill and right back to the big gear once the road is flat again. Is this bad? Like I said, I don't know if the big jump(even though it is only "1" jump, but a big one) damages the chain. Thank you in advance! 🛐 Bike: Giant Escape 2 Disc
I went from a single speed with double hand brakes to a 5 speed gear hub with a coaster brake and hand brake. Now I’m on a 7 speed with double hand brakes and single chainring. I didn’t grow up in a very hilly area, enough to affect visibility of crosswalks but not enough to need gears. Figuring out whether you can pedal while changing gears or if you’ve got to stop pedaling to change can be tricky. My 5 speed popped out of gear if I pedaled while shifting and it took the coaster brake out with it. I’m still not sure if that was normal or not for that type of bike.
Watching the tour I thought of a question for gcn to test. Drafting on flat or down hill makes a difference. Going up hill with little to no wind, does drafting behind someone give any benefit?
I still prefer triple chainring, yes it's heavier but the gap between each chainring is lower so a bit more comfy. Also with a 30tooth chainring you can climb pretty much everywhere with a narrower range on your cassette, making shifts even more progressive 12/27 vs 11/32 is not quite the same thing. In practice I don't use the small chainring that often except when I hit the wall and have to climb a pretty steep climb (>10% and more than a few hundred meters)
I still don' t understand how to efficiently change gears when going from fast descent into steep climb.. It's either too hard and i burn out super fast or it's light and i'm getting freespins that messes with my rhythm and I lose momentum.
that dual shift sometimes called a counter shift... moving from big to small up front... and slipping 3-4 sprockets in the rear... at the same time.. will get it for you. But if it's a really steep climb, well, we're just shit out of luck. Try to get the most out of your momentum coming down off the descent, and let the natural slow-down going uphill bring your speed down to match your gearing. It's better to over-spin a little bit than to be stuck in too high a gear mid-way up, and then have to grind and force downshifts the rest of the way.
@Bjorn Arnesen Cross Chaining: Creating the largest angle on your chain from the innermost gear on the front to the outermost gear on the back, or vice-versa. 1) it makes your chain wear much more, as well as wear the gears / chainrings faster, and 2) it puts either a lot of tension on your Derailler ( Largest on front with largest on back) Or too much slack ( Smallest on front with smallest on back). The theory here is to try to use the more intermediate gears most of the time to give you the optimal cadence/ power zone. The gears at the extreme ends are for special situations when you either need to hill-climb ( smallest front, Largest rear- for maximum mechanical advantage. Your pedals will spin faster, but you will slowly and steadily be more successful in your climb), or for Maximum speed on a flat or downhill ( Largest front, smallest rear- pushing the maximum amount of distance on the ground with the fewest rotations at the pedals). Easiest way to remember it is Smallest + Smallest, or Biggest plus Biggest are bad for your derailler.
Is a bike that’s 7x2 better than one that’s 7x3? Please help me! My Univega is a 8x3 but I’m thinking of selling it and buying a 1988 SR600 Canondale 7x2. Which is is better?
Can you show me how to properly get my water bottle out of the cage please? Also i really need to know how to hold the allan wrench when i tighten bolts. How to grease my chain might help as well.
Absolutely marvelous advice. However what happens for those poor sods who actually purchase a bike with Campagnolo gears, or don't those exist any more?
When I changed gears on a Schwin Hybrid bike, it went from a high 2 to 1 by itself and the chain just fell off, my low always stays around 6 or 7. My question is why did the chain just randomly fall off? Any help would be nice I'm new to biking.
I have a CVT so can pedal flat out all the time, add automatic shifting that updates the ratio every half a second and I have a bike that's truly a joy to ride. The optimum cadence depends only on power output, nothing else. So next step is to make a power meter so it's fully automatic. Just set the desired level of force you want to apply to the pedals.
If you look closely, Mark's head hit Peter's upper arm, not his elbow. Mark was falling long before Peter's elbow came out - Peter's elbow barely even brushes Mark because he's already on his way down. The way I see it, Mark misread an opportunity and tried to take a line that Peter already had. It's nobody's fault, the (very quick) decision to disqualify Peter is disgraceful.
Sattva Vasavada Sengupta - they were not changing gear, so you are a bit off topic here. And it was not a quick decision, Sagan was initially given a 30 second penalty and loss of points After Cavs manager complained, they went over the video a second time and then DQd him from the race. If you watch the overhead, Sagan deliberately rides Cav into the barrier, there was plenty of room for both riders, but Sagan deviated OFF demares wheel to block Cav on the right and then blocking him further with the elbow And don't forget, Sagan had already done something similar earlier in the race - Griepel was also complaining that Sagan went for him But I agree, it was a bit harsh, the initial penalty seemed about right
There is no elbow from Sagan. Cav's left hood is under Sagan's right forearm, all Peter did was to lift his arm to disconnect from a doomed rider. Sagan operates in the Matrix, his moves are moves that Cavendish STILL doesn't understand, nor do the race jury. Sagan got kicked out because he's Neo, The One.
Because only Luddites and Retrogrouches ride cabled gearing. What do you expect GCN presenters to ride ANYTHING LE$$ than Top of the Line? What a dumb question.
Cycling isn’t too popular in America so when I go to look for tutorials I hardly ever find fellow American cyclists and I end up watching a lot of European tutorials. There’s certainly nothing wrong with that, but I bring that point up because when I heard you say, “blooming top tip” I was like... what does that mean? LOL thanks for the tutorial they’ve helped me plenty.
I usually just keep my rear cassette in third from the biggest gear and just switch from big to small from the front ring at the front as where i live it’s constantly up and down hill
always want to ask: how do u shift both front and rear at the same time on an Etap groupset? Since u need to push both sides to change the front and it just can't shift the rear to compensate the big jump of the gear ratio.
Wait so I have to push them both at the same time to make it easier? I just got my bike and I was able to make it harder to peddle but then I couldn’t find out how to make it easier
#TorqueBack speaking as someone who is a bit above average height (6 foot 5) is it normal for me to have a much lower cadence average 50-60 rpm or am I just over gearing myself?
I dont think its about height, i think is about the make up of your muscles. I've quite a low cadence despite having very short legs and thus usually 'over gear' compared to my friends. I'm no slower as a result, but I'm not waiting on the call from Sky any time soon... I dont think even the Cervelo test team would have me.
Gareth Major honestly, you might just be putting 150 more watts into your pedals than your mates. Nothing wrong with it, you should be quite proud of yourself, really.
🚲 Nice video mates, translation to spanish is pretty decent, might be a bit awkward cultural wise on the joke/reference but it'l work 😅 I'll be sharing this with a newbie rider who didn't feel comfortable shifting and rode middle gear all way through. It was kinda windy so I just said "¡Luego te paso un video TH-cam mejor!" [I'll share you a TH-cam video later! ] 😀
i still have shimano 600 tricolor. Only had to change the pulleys of the rear derailleur and clean it from time to time, still works perfect and you can use it i think up to 9x.
I rode 42. 17 up la jolla grade or 42 19 for the steepest grades. Never used my 21 really. Senior 2 veterans usually ride 21. 13 rear and 52. 42 chainrings. Nowadays probably the 54 is still used I don't know. I stopped riding in the 1990s Too much traffic nowadays and faster.
Thank you for this video I'm trying to get in to road cycling and I'm thinking about getting the vilano shadow would you say it is a good bike to start out with
I don't have that kind of gear system... I'm on a kids size bike as I'm under 5ft tall and my gear shift is a ring on the right hand handle only. I don't have gears under my peddle (its a folding bike) I just want to make it easier to peddle on flat land. :(
Thanks to GCN turbosessions with Lucy in the front raw, my 80-90 rpm cadence is only for LSD and recreational rides with those whom I'd like to convert into cycling. Working-out, testing, racing, even recovery rides are at 90++.... (With exception of recommended by Matt high torque intervals, but even those are done with progressive rpm increment)
You also might want to check to see if you have a tight link. With the bike stationary back pedal the entire length of the chain. If one of the links does not lie down on the cassette it may need some pin adjustment. Check this first before replacing anything.
Philip Hern From the description: "Thanks to Bellwether for the products used in this video". That means they didn't use GCN kit because they where doing product placement.
Cross chaining ain't a big problem. it's greatly exaggerated. I never use small-small because it never comes naturally to do so. But i do use big-big sometimes
With Si and Lasty on the ground at the TdF, I was hoping we'd get an in-depth GCN piece on the Cavendish/Sagan controversy today. So far, all I see is this how-to-change-gears vid and the Kask helmet infomercial?????????????? Sad!
Even if ize allowed to cross-chain i wouldnt, its a like a deadly sin..... Got to respect smashy and nicey here for talking on a gradient like this ! :p
so youre saying, when i tap the right lever, i also need to tap the left lever at the same time.....? ive been cycling recently and have only been tapping the right lever to 'tighten the gears' whilst cycling
Let us know your tips for gear changing and selection in the comments below 👇
Global Cycling Network - if it gets harder, put it in an easier gear and vice versa.
If that is too complicated, ride single speed
Global Cycling Network - even on SRAM, get into the habit of changing chain rings when in the middle of the cassette - cross chaining may be allowed, but it is still inefficient
Ride like a manual car. When you change gear, whether it's on a wattage bazooka or coffee cruise, let off power and then shift. I hear a lot of experienced riders grinding gears and they are hurting their already skinny wallets. Save your components and let off a little.
(Charlie) Many Amerikanz don't know no gear shifting :) They are the primary target for bike produce selling, but might not get your very precise comparison. I am hearing that click and grind noise most of the time playing green light sprint during (otherwise pretty boring) commute.
Which groupset allows you to cross train?? The SRAM what? I'd like to get one!
I have ridden a fix gear bike for over ten years. Now that I have decided to challenge myself more, I decided to buy a road bike. Not knowing a single thing about gears and already a fan of your guy's work, I turned to you for information. thank you! This is helpful!
sexy gorl
As explained in the video, changing chainrings should always be accompanied by a "counter-shift", that is, shifting up to a bigger chainring should be accompanied by a comparable downshift on the cassette and vice versa, usually at least two cogs, although this can change under certain conditions. When I change chainrings, I always think "Easier, then harder", that is, I do the shift that makes pedaling easier before doing the one that makes it harder. This way, I don't rob my legs of momentum. The nice thing about counter-shifting is that it always involves the same levers on both hands: When shifting to the big chainring, both shifts are done with the brake levers and when shifting to the small chainring, both shifts are done with the paddles. If you subscribe to my "easier, then harder" technique, the order will change. When shifting up to the big chainring, start by downshifting on the right brake lever (two cogs or whatever) and then upshift on the left brake lever. When shifting down to the small chainring, it's the opposite--start by downshifting to the small chainring on the left paddle and then shift up (two cogs or whatever) on the right paddle. (There is much debate about whether the chainring and cog shift can be done simultaneously. I prefer to do them consecutively as I don't like the idea of both ends of my chain being in transition at the same time. I'm no mechanic but this seems to beg for trouble.) With practice, these motions can be executed smoothly and quickly to minimize the time spent shifting chainrings when you have to lighten up on the pedals.
This is my own technique, formulated and refined over several years of observation and experimentation. I welcome any comments and arguments.
This is great! Thank you for the share!
Question for you, is there any danger when either side of the chain is in the transition area that it go halfway and get tangled? It seems like this equipment is made pretty fool proof, that you’ll either shift, or if the indexing Is improperly calibrated, you simply won’t change gears at all. I’ve never heard about the chain coming like halfway off the wheel or something. It always has to land somewhere.
@@ktrock77 Like I said, I'm no mechanic, but certainly there have been times when I've been biking when something didn't mesh quite right on a shift. Sometimes you hit the shifter and nothing changes, sometimes it moves but the chain doesn't mesh quite right with the cog or chain ring which is probably a sign of a drivetrain problem like a stretched chain or worn cogs or chain rings. I have rarely had a dropped chain but I'd prefer a dropped chain--which is easy to fix--to other problems.
Thanks! I’ll try it today :)
I wish I understood any of this lol someday 🥲
ah, finally! i've always suspected that the break levers have another, hidden function!
Brake
Broke
Blake
Beans
Bake
beginners guide with dura ace di2 and sram red etap?!?! I want to be a beginner in the UK!!!
It's the Millionaire / Billionaire edition of "A Beginner's Guide."
Afterall, what Saudi Prince wants to look foolish during their riding lessons with a current UCI road champion.
or rather Bahraini Prince of Merida on his golden Sepultura with diamonds on his saddle instead of grip tape
Pretty sad they can't get a beginners trek and demo on a real bike not some $4000 racing bike....
Joao Miguel Marinheiro Leitão lmao I'm here with a Claris.
@@miniwarrior7 Uuuum more like 12000
Yep, I'm a newbie/beginner. So grateful for this video... I was cross-chaining like a champ! Running a triple up front.
Yeah same. I bought a 3x9 and was cross chaining so hard by going front 1 back 9.
Same!
if you click both left and right at the same time, the bike takes a screenshot
Brilliant! Had experience it when changing gear on steep hill climb... Broke my gear hanger while climbing...
Great video! The filming is top-notch - I appreciate the alternate views of the shifting and the actual gears in action, along with the rider diagrams. Also... holy hell... you narrated that whole thing on that long climb.... I don't much enjoy changing my gears - but I see it's worth learning how to do well
1. Changing gears at load on the back is fairly harmless, especially on the road.
2. Cross chaining, when done sporadically, is also harmless.
3. Changing gears at load at the front from small to big is nigh impossible, technically
4. Changing gears at load at the front from big to small requires a bit of a finesse, but is certainly doable.
I think I understood......in principle, now to put it into practice! New to biking and the wrong side of 50!! More advice on gears is massively appreciated. Using shimano claris
One thing I would say is don't listen to professional (and young) cyclists talking about cadence of 80-90 being "normal". It isn't.
For those commenters who complain that this video is too elementary, don't worry, an upcoming video will demonstrate how to install a kickstand on one's TT bike.
I've been watching your video's for over 8 months. I love your content it's amazing and all your riders are so funny. I just bought my first road bike and I'm loving it!!! Keep up the amazing videos you are the best. :D
Nice video. Everything explained well and simplified
I've been riding a hybrid bike now for a couple of years I love how comfortable it is. But I really need a road bike as my new job requires me to travel around inner city, I was thinking about getting a road bike but having never used one before the gear system seems quite daunting to me. Any recommendations on a beginners road bike, also what gear system is easier for a noob like me?
I have 3X7 gear system. When Im on 2 and 7, and I know its time to upshift to 3 on the front, I downshift the back to 5 from 7 and then upshift from 2 to 3 on the front. This makes the jump a lot easier. Was this the pro tip that he was trying to explain?
"i'M aLlOwEd tO cRoSs cHaIn"
lollll
I'm doing a 33 mile marathon this week and I borrowed a Jamis from a friend and I'm trying to figure out when to change gears to what for each situation
My advice if you're using a compact setup [34-50]: if you're in the big ring, change up a gear at the back before you change down to the 34 chainring.
Why?
Not the subject, but your kit is really cool
I love how British people call bike gear a "kit". Cute lol🤣
3 day bike beginner here:
Mine has 2 gears in the front.
Is it bad to only change the front gear?
What I mean by that is that I don't know if the big jump from the small to the big gear in the front(or vice versa) damages the chain or something. I leave the rear gear on the 6th smallest one(of 8) gear always for downhill and flat road riding(no difference for me. I've done stationary bike for too long), and only change the front one to the small gear uphill and right back to the big gear once the road is flat again.
Is this bad? Like I said, I don't know if the big jump(even though it is only "1" jump, but a big one) damages the chain.
Thank you in advance! 🛐
Bike: Giant Escape 2 Disc
I went from a single speed with double hand brakes to a 5 speed gear hub with a coaster brake and hand brake. Now I’m on a 7 speed with double hand brakes and single chainring. I didn’t grow up in a very hilly area, enough to affect visibility of crosswalks but not enough to need gears. Figuring out whether you can pedal while changing gears or if you’ve got to stop pedaling to change can be tricky. My 5 speed popped out of gear if I pedaled while shifting and it took the coaster brake out with it. I’m still not sure if that was normal or not for that type of bike.
Just started road biking after years of using a mtb hybrid thing on roads. I miss my granny ring lol.
Watching the tour I thought of a question for gcn to test. Drafting on flat or down hill makes a difference. Going up hill with little to no wind, does drafting behind someone give any benefit?
I still prefer triple chainring, yes it's heavier but the gap between each chainring is lower so a bit more comfy. Also with a 30tooth chainring you can climb pretty much everywhere with a narrower range on your cassette, making shifts even more progressive 12/27 vs 11/32 is not quite the same thing. In practice I don't use the small chainring that often except when I hit the wall and have to climb a pretty steep climb (>10% and more than a few hundred meters)
so what should i put on a flat terrain? i have 3 gears on the left switch and eight on the right switch. you see, I am really a beginner.....
ive always wondered what those levers and pulleys were for
I still don' t understand how to efficiently change gears when going from fast descent into steep climb.. It's either too hard and i burn out super fast or it's light and i'm getting freespins that messes with my rhythm and I lose momentum.
that dual shift sometimes called a counter shift... moving from big to small up front... and slipping 3-4 sprockets in the rear... at the same time.. will get it for you. But if it's a really steep climb, well, we're just shit out of luck. Try to get the most out of your momentum coming down off the descent, and let the natural slow-down going uphill bring your speed down to match your gearing. It's better to over-spin a little bit than to be stuck in too high a gear mid-way up, and then have to grind and force downshifts the rest of the way.
this video made me more confused -_-
Buy fixed gear bike
Me too! The search for bike gear videos continues! if you found a better one, kindly point me to it, thanks.
Bruh
I think this dude's video is better:
th-cam.com/video/clnNCsv4Phc/w-d-xo.html
@Bjorn Arnesen Cross Chaining: Creating the largest angle on your chain from the innermost gear on the front to the outermost gear on the back, or vice-versa. 1) it makes your chain wear much more, as well as wear the gears / chainrings faster, and 2) it puts either a lot of tension on your Derailler ( Largest on front with largest on back) Or too much slack ( Smallest on front with smallest on back). The theory here is to try to use the more intermediate gears most of the time to give you the optimal cadence/ power zone. The gears at the extreme ends are for special situations when you either need to hill-climb ( smallest front, Largest rear- for maximum mechanical advantage. Your pedals will spin faster, but you will slowly and steadily be more successful in your climb), or for Maximum speed on a flat or downhill ( Largest front, smallest rear- pushing the maximum amount of distance on the ground with the fewest rotations at the pedals). Easiest way to remember it is Smallest + Smallest, or Biggest plus Biggest are bad for your derailler.
Is a bike that’s 7x2 better than one that’s 7x3? Please help me! My Univega is a 8x3 but I’m thinking of selling it and buying a 1988 SR600 Canondale 7x2. Which is is better?
Can you show me how to properly get my water bottle out of the cage please? Also i really need to know how to hold the allan wrench when i tighten bolts. How to grease my chain might help as well.
GCN needs to explain the # of teeth per sprocket, and how significant a 2-4 tooth increase or decrease in shifting can affect
one's work load.
Good information.. Thankyou 👍
Absolutely marvelous advice. However what happens for those poor sods who actually purchase a bike with Campagnolo gears, or don't those exist any more?
This is SO helpful, thank you. Wish I’d discovered you years ago. None of this is intuitive to me.
When I changed gears on a Schwin Hybrid bike, it went from a high 2 to 1 by itself and the chain just fell off, my low always stays around 6 or 7. My question is why did the chain just randomly fall off? Any help would be nice I'm new to biking.
The derailleur is out of kilter.
I have a CVT so can pedal flat out all the time, add automatic shifting that updates the ratio every half a second and I have a bike that's truly a joy to ride.
The optimum cadence depends only on power output, nothing else. So next step is to make a power meter so it's fully automatic. Just set the desired level of force you want to apply to the pedals.
Is the same selection of gear combinations valid for any geared bike or just road bike
If you look closely, Mark's head hit Peter's upper arm, not his elbow. Mark was falling long before Peter's elbow came out - Peter's elbow barely even brushes Mark because he's already on his way down.
The way I see it, Mark misread an opportunity and tried to take a line that Peter already had. It's nobody's fault, the (very quick) decision to disqualify Peter is disgraceful.
Sattva Vasavada Sengupta - they were not changing gear, so you are a bit off topic here. And it was not a quick decision, Sagan was initially given a 30 second penalty and loss of points
After Cavs manager complained, they went over the video a second time and then DQd him from the race.
If you watch the overhead, Sagan deliberately rides Cav into the barrier, there was plenty of room for both riders, but Sagan deviated OFF demares wheel to block Cav on the right and then blocking him further with the elbow
And don't forget, Sagan had already done something similar earlier in the race - Griepel was also complaining that Sagan went for him
But I agree, it was a bit harsh, the initial penalty seemed about right
There is no elbow from Sagan. Cav's left hood is under Sagan's right forearm, all Peter did was to lift his arm to disconnect from a doomed rider.
Sagan operates in the Matrix, his moves are moves that Cavendish STILL doesn't understand, nor do the race jury. Sagan got kicked out because he's Neo, The One.
sagan control is just levels above the uci jury... uci jury prob a bunch of fat guys who don't even ride bikes.
Sattva Vasavada Sengupta #freesagan
I agree but not the right video
I still love triples and half step plus granny gearing.
If it's a beginner's guide why are you using di2?
quwers the poor lads don't have anything else...
quwers
Haha comment of the day.
Because only Luddites and Retrogrouches ride cabled gearing. What do you expect GCN presenters to ride ANYTHING LE$$ than Top of the Line? What a dumb question.
It doesn't matter how the signal is transferred. Ideas apply to both cable and electric equally
What is di2?
How did you do it with your hands? I still have no idea how to change gears.
Cycling isn’t too popular in America so when I go to look for tutorials I hardly ever find fellow American cyclists and I end up watching a lot of European tutorials. There’s certainly nothing wrong with that, but I bring that point up because when I heard you say, “blooming top tip” I was like... what does that mean? LOL thanks for the tutorial they’ve helped me plenty.
Do your tips apply to my Firefox Fusion 2.6 equipped with 21 speed Shimano thumb shifters?
Sorry 4 my bad English, btw.
Matt Stevens actually looks pro in this video! good job Matt!
4:47 nice one
I usually just keep my rear cassette in third from the biggest gear and just switch from big to small from the front ring at the front as where i live it’s constantly up and down hill
Awesome ✨
Top Tip
This is helpful
hi guys, when I go to the bigger sprockets on my block I hear a click with every pedal revolution, what do you think might be wrong or is this normal?
always want to ask: how do u shift both front and rear at the same time on an Etap groupset? Since u need to push both sides to change the front and it just can't shift the rear to compensate the big jump of the gear ratio.
Junyan Liu If I'd spent money on electronic shifting I'd expect it to do it automatically. Otherwise what's the piont of it being electronic.
Cycling uphill and presenting a video. Fairplay lads.
Wait so I have to push them both at the same time to make it easier? I just got my bike and I was able to make it harder to peddle but then I couldn’t find out how to make it easier
Should we worry about the fact that gear inches are not necessarily concentric with cassette and chainring combinations?
#TorqueBack speaking as someone who is a bit above average height (6 foot 5) is it normal for me to have a much lower cadence average 50-60 rpm or am I just over gearing myself?
I dont think its about height, i think is about the make up of your muscles. I've quite a low cadence despite having very short legs and thus usually 'over gear' compared to my friends. I'm no slower as a result, but I'm not waiting on the call from Sky any time soon... I dont think even the Cervelo test team would have me.
Gareth Major honestly, you might just be putting 150 more watts into your pedals than your mates. Nothing wrong with it, you should be quite proud of yourself, really.
Top Gear for biking over here (no pun implied)
🚲 Nice video mates, translation to spanish is pretty decent, might be a bit awkward cultural wise on the joke/reference but it'l work 😅
I'll be sharing this with a newbie rider who didn't feel comfortable shifting and rode middle gear all way through.
It was kinda windy so I just said "¡Luego te paso un video TH-cam mejor!" [I'll share you a TH-cam video later! ]
😀
This is all very well, but I'm not sure what a bike is, video please GCN?
Joker alert.
nice Spandex
Props to the camera man for cycling in front and filming at the same time 👏👏👏
Big ring gang
Well that was as clear as mud. Remember, this was supposed to be for those new to cycling. :)
Bellwether coming on board as a sponsor I see.
what about the thumb gears?
is shimano 600 still relevant, my roadbike it's quite old
i still have shimano 600 tricolor. Only had to change the pulleys of the rear derailleur and clean it from time to time, still works perfect and you can use it i think up to 9x.
I rode 42. 17 up la jolla grade or 42 19 for the steepest grades. Never used my 21 really. Senior 2 veterans usually ride 21. 13 rear and 52. 42 chainrings. Nowadays probably the 54 is still used I don't know. I stopped riding in the 1990s Too much traffic nowadays and faster.
And how about a triple chainset, how the cross chaining works?
Thank you for this video I'm trying to get in to road cycling and I'm thinking about getting the vilano shadow would you say it is a good bike to start out with
@matt Stephens. Looks like your bulking up. Good going bro. Big up!
Watching this video without even a road bike 💔
I don't have that kind of gear system... I'm on a kids size bike as I'm under 5ft tall and my gear shift is a ring on the right hand handle only. I don't have gears under my peddle (its a folding bike) I just want to make it easier to peddle on flat land. :(
I'm surprised that you guys weren't wearing GCN kits :)
the music is so catchy
How do i switch to bigger chainring?
How many gear are there in road bike usually???
I'm loving matts glasses B)
What bike is that?
Well this is rather 'geared' towards the beginners.
Sorry.
I'm a beginner and this still seems complicated
lol
Fuck me it's not rocket science .
I just bought a new ALR4 and haven’t ridden it yet because I don’t know how to change gears. 🤔
nice video i like it
0:24 big-big cross-chaining spotted
th-cam.com/video/_-vguUGj8pg/w-d-xo.html
Ah, cross-chaining. Not a problem, but I ride a recumbent with almost 4 metres of chain. Front and rear are effectively separate systems for me.
Simon Taylo
Laurens Verheij o
Thanks to GCN turbosessions with Lucy in the front raw, my 80-90 rpm cadence is only for LSD and recreational rides with those whom I'd like to convert into cycling. Working-out, testing, racing, even recovery rides are at 90++.... (With exception of recommended by Matt high torque intervals, but even those are done with progressive rpm increment)
Can I use machine oil on my chain?
I also have a road bike but with flat bars
Mine had those switched them for riser bars
hey guys, my chain is slipping on the bigger gears at the back. why is that and what should I do abt it?
Kemar Johnson You might need a new chain or casette. Look out for worn teeth.
You also might want to check to see if you have a tight link. With the bike stationary back pedal the entire length of the chain. If one of the links does not lie down on the cassette it may need some pin adjustment. Check this first before replacing anything.
GCN kit? Conspicuous by its absence. Then I read the show notes.
Philip Hern From the description: "Thanks to Bellwether for the products used in this video". That means they didn't use GCN kit because they where doing product placement.
thank you!
Cross chaining ain't a big problem. it's greatly exaggerated. I never use small-small because it never comes naturally to do so. But i do use big-big sometimes
Goriaas haha I cross chain all the time. 😂 Although I’m still riding a 6 speed cassette with friction shifters, not this high tech stuff.
i did know all things lol but gud vid
What is your cassette 8 speed?
12 speed
With Si and Lasty on the ground at the TdF, I was hoping we'd get an in-depth GCN piece on the Cavendish/Sagan controversy today. So far, all I see is this how-to-change-gears vid and the Kask helmet infomercial?????????????? Sad!
How do you drift
But how you change gears with Sora?
What happened to your kit?
Very informative yesss. Helmet pleasee new biker heree pleasee
just bought my very first bike with gears and i’ve watched about 5 videos now on how to do it and i’m still confused smh
Same, I'm just confused
0:10
Matt, are you trying to work on your tan-lines? Because, if you are, it really won't get better if you do it like that.
Even if ize allowed to cross-chain i wouldnt, its a like a deadly sin..... Got to respect smashy and nicey here for talking on a gradient like this ! :p
0:48 i have a dirty mind lol
so youre saying, when i tap the right lever, i also need to tap the left lever at the same time.....? ive been cycling recently and have only been tapping the right lever to 'tighten the gears' whilst cycling
My easy memory jog is "big gear to little gear = little lever." Little gear to big gear = big lever."