I've been riding for years, and I've never really taken the time to explore this subject beyond "Don't shift under load" and "Don't cross-chain". This was a great video.
@@hectichive889 essentially, yes. If you try to shift to a larger sprocket while you're putting pressure down to the pedals, it puts unnecessary stress on the drivetrain components. It will usually still work, it's just not good in the long term for your drivetrain.
Like he says you’ll end up shifting under load all the time. Ideally you’d know what gear you need to be in and be in the right gear before you need to be in it. In real life we mess that up and need to shift while we go. But def don’t cross the chain. That’s bad for the chain.
Not sure if this was ever said, but for the front gears on all Shimano 105, Dura Ace and Ultegra, the shifting "tracks" from the smaller gear to the bigger gear are positioned when your right leg is up, and starting to go down. So if you use/apply the shifter from smaller gear to the bigger gear when the right leg is up, and just about to go down, the shifting is much quicker and smoother than any other leg "position" (or pedal rotation). This avoid any chain rubbing and makes the front gear changes much smoother. Cheers!
@@si7273 I think Bill meant he's a beginner racing cyclist. I think you are talking about riding a bike all together. That's amazing! How old are you and how long did it take you to feel comfortable? Sorry, I'm just curious, haha. I live in the Netherlands, so I don't know anyone who hasn't ridden a bike since they were 3 years old.
@@jsmit9484 learned how to bike after ridingg friends bike for 3x..now got my own bike after 13 years...I'll say it's pretty easy..just need confidence..ofc training for stamina
My suggestion for 3x drivetrains.. Always start at 2nd gear on front and the middle gear for the rear cogs (for instance in 7 speed the middle is 4th gear) , then start pedaling and if u need to speed up, move to third gear on front and if you feel to add again then go to 5th gear in rear and so on.. And when uphill, from 2x4 move to 1x4 and if you still need some, move to 3rd, 2nd and so on in the rear cogs..
I'm sure there are another 100k people with my story. But I've bought a cheap bike so I don't have to buy gas. I only have 5miles, but there's a REALLY big hill. I instinctively have started in the middle in the front. But this comment totally made me see better thx.
I do it a bit differently, because under load, especially when loaded with camping gear, it is allways easyer to go from big to small . I prefer to keep the easy and immediate downshift in reserve, so I usually keep the middle on the front all the way, and then when that becomes too hard I shift down with the front derailleur, which is easy, allso because the chain allready lies towards that side. When I was riding through the German woods I had a 3x7 that did it very well with these combinations.
Thank you. I've been riding a 21-speed mountain bike for about five years now and recently realised I was using the gears wrongly. This explains it perfectly for me.
I’ve been practicing this while keeping my cadence at 85-90 , self taught from years of cycling as you mention , dropping down front or going into big ring is too big and totally messes up your rhythm. Nice to see this taught 👍
I am 67 next week and cycle road and trail occasional. This video opened my eyes . I never knew the chain line straightness was so important and also the need to take the strain off changing gears. Thank you. Watched video twice now.!
@@cannondany I have a 8 speed bike when I change from 7 to 8 gear as I'm in 7 it's quite a wait for it to go to 8 when before it was quicker. Any idea what that is about?
SickBiker yes please! I also don't understand how you shift two gears at once on the cassette... Please show us the hands. Thanks and keep up the good work
To add to what TheK4ptur wrote. Some shifters can do 2 gears through a stroke, others can do 3 gears per stroke. These are are usually mid to high grade components. Think Ultegra. To shift simultaneously you need only use both your left and right hand on the STI style of brifters. One hand for the left hand to shift the front cogs, one hand for the right hand to shift the rear cogs. I do hope you understand my messages. Greetings.
I'm pretty sure what he's doing is changing gears with both hands at the same time: the right hand is doing the shift in the rear at the very same time that the left hand is doing the shift in the front. Very good riders do it all the time, but I haven't gotten it down yet.
You explained a complex concept in a non-native language in such a clear and comprehensible way that I’m more impressed by that than the actual tutorial. Well done.
Wow, I've wondered about this for years, pretty much my whole life. I've asked much more avid cyclists than myself including cyclist that participate in races with expensive racing bikes and no one ever really seemed to understand how gear shifting was suposed to be done given there are two shifters, one for the front sprocket and one for the back. So glad I stumbled across this and finally understand.
Many years ago, when I was just getting serious I was training with a very experienced West Coast tri-athlete. He broke it down for me with this,,, "AJ... will you PLEASE try and keep the chain straight !" It finally clicked... Don't think "big and little" sprockets... Think, "right and left."
Before bike computers, we had to memorize our gear ratios and know the crossover points between the cranks and cogs. For example, a crank/cog 42/13 = 53/17. So, 42/13 had too much crossover which is solved by progressing to 53/17. Knowing gear-inches is the equivalent of knowing gear ratios.
excellent video. i was concerned about changing gears in the front & back at the same time. i am glad that not only is it the right thing to do (when appropriate), but it also takes the load off the chain / drivetrain. thank you for the explanation / clarification!
This video was about advanced techniques to avoid frictional losses. If you're not even using gears besides your your highest gear, you have a lot to learn before you even think about this video...
@@frederickschulze8014 he said he is on the highest gear 80% of the time. This doesn't mean he isn't using anything else. You just don't get what he is saying: (down) shifting under load is much easier and efficient if you have a preference for the higher gears in the front, because you can downshift fast there This ratio seems realistic for me, too (having 3x9). Usually I don't need the lowest gears, so the lowest one in the front is used seldom. The second gear is only used uphill and I don't care about big shifting differences, so mostly I use the big one in the front
This is one of the most useful skills I have ever learned. Takes some getting used to but this makes descents after immediately steep climbs a lot easier. Though my rear shifter doesn't have multiple clicks to go down more than one gear at a time it's no biggie
I learned it the hard way, chain fell of like 20 times than i understood when to shift, but for a daily use of a bike (i am 17 so i use it as a car ~15km daily) on flat terrain go 5 on the rear and 3 on the top one, gives a lot of energy and its possible to easy start
I just started on a road bike and happens to look down on my chain and wondered how to make less work for it. Thank you for this video! You explain so clear and the camera angle was a great view! Great job on all your videos
Pedaling a little less before shifting was something I figured out in my own sort of on accident. I never knew there was an actual reason for it. Great video.
A good mechanic will always be willing to teach us how to maintain our bikes, making them more dependable and safe to ride in any situation we encounter, keeping in mind that a bicycle chain was not designed to have any horizontal play in it. The chain is free to move at the pins to roll over the sprocket and cassette. Cross chain gear selections, over time, will degrade or break the chain and prematurely wear the sprocket and cassette. Thanks for detail explanation. Your chart provided the visual that also helped. Good job.
Ive purchased new bike- 2nd hand Merida BIG.NINE 300. I thought ive got scammed, as my chain would get out of place so very often. I considered going to a repair shop. few hours before my scheduled ride to the store, I found this video. HANDS DOWN the only video that explains simultaneous gear shifting. Ive made a nice deal, and improved from 'dummies shifting' with a forgiving bike to higher level, to save some Wats and enjoy whole new depth of riding. Thanks, 6 years later :)
Thank you so much for this video. I got my first road bike yesterday and saw this video a week ago. I cycled 60 km home from the store, and during the ride I practiced this shifting. Compared to a mountain bike, the technique is different and your video helped me a lot.
I'm mid 50's and just starting to bicycle for fun, other than the pre drivers license stuff. I've got a 3x6 and have been practicing using only 4 cogs for each ring since I've learned about cross chaining. Double shifting is probably beyond me on my cheap mountain bike (1995 Magna Mountain Tamer) that I use for road riding (15mph avg for 30 miles). I'm having fun learning all the adjustments and efficiency points.
you really hit the nail on the head. I found I was already concerning myself with my chain line (I think anyone who pays attention to their bike should) but you did a good job at teaching me about how to avoid those hard shifts. all I could add is to stress what gear you should be in. Don't over exert yourself or your equipment. keep in mind that your bike is a mechanical thing and try to understand what it is doing when you change 6 gears at once up hill... cheers all
Beautiful and simple tutorial. Probably the clearest explanation online about this. It took me a while to develop this and this video makes it easy to pass it on to beginners. Keep up with the great videos!
Just got a new hybird bike! Ive never focused on how to drive the bicycle propely and i wondered if i could go faster easier. This video was really helpful! Now i can go faster without so much fatigue!
Here I thought double shifting was bad, very good video explaining the shifting. Makes total sense, explained. Been practicing early in the morning so that my granny shifting isn't as noticeable😂.
Great presentation 👏. I never liked the excessive noise and quickly shifted. Your teaching has showed me exactly why and what causes the noise. Thank you 😊.
I haven’t ridden in years and just bought a recumbent trike with 24 gears so I’m having a heck of a time learning this. Great into…if I can remember it!
The general idea of how and when to change the gears is helpful, and the gear change will probably be smoother. However, as others have said, it could be explained better and more briefly and in what circumstances you would and would not do it.
Wow great explanation for me, I'm an everyday commuter cyclist but really didn't know much about optimal shifting and using the gears most effectively.
Theoretically, if you derail both gears like the cassette and chain ring simultaneously it could cause a chain slip especially if you have lots of load on a pedal (like on a race day). The reason is, both gears are not properly engaged at this situation, so be extra cautious when doing this on the road. (just an advice).
The poster of this video is advocating to NOT shift under load.... You guys don't know anything, so you have to echo what the GCN douches say... The whole point of this video is to discuss all aspects of proper shifting. One big aspect that is a super efficiency maximizer is the simultaneous shifting of BOTH derailleurs.... I am a cyclist but also ride a rickshaw that transports people while pedaling a bike..... I can tell you that never in my life before had I ever thought of the simultaneous double shift until I was hauling 6-8 people and needed to conserve momentum. In these conditions, you become acutely aware that the best way to do this is the simultaneous double derailleur shift to get the gear that beat suits your needs based on the weight you're carrying, the grade and speed.... If you want to develop your shifting intuitive prowess, just ride along at a certain cadence and see how quickly you can switch from big to small or small to big front chain rings while simultaneously adjusting the rear gears accordingly to maintain what feels to be similar cadence..... The faster you can do this without having to think about it, the more efficient and better shifter you will become at this. This is a skill and a mental mindset that a higher level cyclist can do without thinking about it.... Anybody who wants to understand even further, needs only to make a chart as to the tooth count of both front sprockets and the rear cassette. Divide the tooth count of each front by each of the sprockets on the rear and make a chart. Once you have made all the calculations, you will see how there will be almost identical numbers between the larger and smaller chain rings as they are on different rear sprockets of the cassette. These are the shift points that will result in the almost identical cadence on a flat... With this knowledge, based on whether you are accelerating, decelerating from a lower or higher speed, or entering the start of a rise, you will start to be able to choose a gear ratio that allows you to, say, maintain as much momentum as possible. One other really good technique for a shorter, punchier rolling hills setup would be, at the right moment, to downshift to a gear that is actually a bit too short that will momentarily spike your cadence to 120-130 RPM. This basically takes advantage of the momentum you have on the flat or downhill before you start going up the hill. The downshift to the shorter gear that spikes the cadence to 120-130 RPM translates that momentum into forward acceleration without having to use your muscles to get that acceleration. This obviously will not help much for a long climb, but when done properly, conserves a decent amount of explosive energy that is used on rolling hills type terrain. Having super refined shifting skills with both derailleurs simultaneously will allow you to extract every single bit of momentum in this situation. For example, the longer it takes you to make the correct shift, the more momentum you will lose, and the more tired/less competitive you will be say in a road race situation. Think of yourself as a race car driver and the better of a shifter your are in an identical car, the faster you will be....
@@JR-wj9bh GCN Douches! Yes they are often just an infomercial trying to push and market their sponsors products. They do have some good content, but they also push lots of falsehoods as well. It is always good to be a critical thinker and to analyze what the channel is pushing. Like their slamming of rim brakes and mechanical shifting for example. Not all of us need or can afford a $1500 to $2500 Groupset and a plastic frame the implodes upon impact. My entire bike is that much and shifts and brakes as good or better than Di2. There is a dollars and cents ulterior motive to lots of the "information" they are hawking.
Thank you for this video. I wrote the explanation for myself and I wanted to know if it is correct. SHIFTING GEARS: Shifting means to move the bike chain from one gear to another. It is performed using the levers on the handles. Each time the lever clicks, it has selected another gear. Front Wheel: Entire assembly is called a Crankset. A sprocket is a single chainring. There are usually three chainrings which are commonly referred to as front gears. Shifting the front gears is performed by pushing one of the triggers or levers on the LEFT handle of the bike (LEFT = FRONT). The larger lever moves the chain to a larger chainring or gear which makes pedaling harder. The smaller lever moves the chain to a smaller chainring which makes pedaling easier. Rear Wheel: (CORRECTION as per Sebastian) The set of rear gears is called a Cassette. A cog is a singe ring or gear. There are usually 7 - 11 cogs or gears in the rear. Shifting the rear gears is performed by pushing one of the triggers or levers on the RIGHT handle of the bike (RIGHT = REAR). The larger lever moves the chain to a larger chainring or gear which makes pedaling easier. The smaller lever moves the chain to a smaller chainring which makes pedaling harder. Yes, it is opposite. Another way to say this is the smaller of the two shifter levers will move the chain into smaller rings. So, small=small. Shifting into smaller rings with your RIGHT hand will make the pedaling HARDER. Shifting into the smaller gears with your LEFT hand will make the pedaling EASIER. The total number of gears on the bike is determined by the number of front gears x rear gears. Eg. 3 front x 11 rear = 33 gears. Lower gear - lower number which makes it easier to pedal BUT decreases the power you get from each pedal. Good for climbing. Larger gear in the rear, smaller gear in the front. Higher gear - higher number which makes it harder to pedal BUT increases the power you get from each pedal. Smaller gear in the rear, larger gear in the front. Try not to shift gears when pedaling really hard. Try to keep the chain as straight as possible meaning if your front gear is on the largest ring (the outer most gear) and your rear gear is on the largest ring (the inner most gear), the chain will be on its largest possible angle when looking at the chain from the rear of the bike.
Dr. Steven Horwitz Thank you so much for the explanation. I got clarification on all the basic gear shifting from reading your post in a minute verse spending so much time watching videos.
Dr. Steven Horwitz almost all of this is correct. One small mistake: the cassette is just the rear gears, not included anything else. I don't know how everything together (Cassette and rear derailer) is called
A difference between shifting with the front derailleur and the rear which becomes important when going slow, like mountainbiking uphill with camping gear, is that the entire rear wheel of your bike has to turn around a lot before you have shifted one gear , at which point you are standing still allready, and when you change the front you are allmost instantaneusly in the new gear at full force. So when climbing over difficult terrain I prefer keeping the middle chainring on the front untill I reached the biggest one behind. That way I have my chain in a position in which it is easy to make a big downshift with the front derailleur, and easily shift up with the rear deraileur. When in a playfull mood in town I use the front gears like a stick shift in a car so I put the chain somewhere in the middle behind, and accelerate shifting up the front derailleur, because you shift at high RPM this goes very smooth and you only lose power for a split second, and it feels a lot quicker than taking off without shifting. When I have to stop at a bridge I allways shift down before stopping.
Now that's really a professional advise and real technique from a pro thanks! Feel the comfort in the cadence each time. And the double almost simultaneous action on the derailer and the sprockets is simply brilliant!
Many thanks. I’m a newbie. Try about 4 days trying to adjust the back derailer, front derailer, H and L screw, even as far as the B tension screw. I still cannot shift the 2x9 smoothly. Either gear slip, or will not change. I am certain, no matter how many gears behind. If the front is not aligned to drive the back. A little bump on the road or track, will change the gears. All the sponsored channels will not divulge the truth to riding. Great video from you. Thanks, as you just confirmed my doubts on tuning my bike
Thank you so much brother for this insightful presentation... The confusion and fear associated with gears are now 80% gone just that 20% of hard work and persistent practice on my part will perhaps help me master the much feared gearing technique especially while riding 😃 Thanks a million ton sir... 👍👍👍
Whilst you took time to explain from the rear, there are many of us who need to see a small inset vide showing the movements on the right and left hand. If you include such will be much appreciated.
Fàntastic demonstration of economy of motion. Granted I am a rookie mountain biker who hasn't been in the saddle for 20+ years and recently acquired a Felt 9 five and beginning to breath a freedom I have not had in decades. I have had tunnel vision until this video with the mind set of changing gears from one aspect at a time. I am almost imbearest to admit I never considered manipulating both drove sprocket and cassette simultaneously. I also understand now that it is most efficient when chain alignment is most true. Thank you sir for the enlightenment.
Amazing tutorial. I just discovered the 2 gears I normally cycle with on two different sprockets are the worst possible and aren't going straight. The moment I used the gear equivalent but using a different sprocket to line it up I felt like I was using so much less power - thank you!
I now finally understand how to change gear wtf. This kind of explanation is what I'm looking for just need to spend a lot of time to practice. Thank you so much!!!! 😊🙋
Thank you, Sir, you solve my problem. My bike was making some type of horrible sounds when I used to change my bike gears and I asked my bike dealer several times about it, but they just used to made useless excuses. But now I understand the whole thing. Thank you once again 😊
Great demo for beginners. I used this video to teach my wife whom is riding for the first time a multi gear bike. Previous to that she was used only to 1 speed freewheels.
This was the most useful video I have watched in a long time! I’m about to get my new bike and had no clue about gears. Now at least I know how not to ruin the chain! Thanks!
I have a giant defy advanced 2, and its my first road endurance bike. Just got into gears from a fixie, and super helpful video. I knew about not changing it under load but I didn't know you can shift the rear cogs AND the chainring at the same time. I thought it had to be done 1by1
Since making an automatic shifter for my NuVinci CVT I've learned what a massive difference to power output, efficiency and ride experience being in the perfect gear makes. You know that feeling when you hit the sweet spot, the perfect gear ratio for the situation but its gone so quickly due to a change in speed. With a CVT I'm able to stay in that sweet spot 100% of the time.
The God Of Awesome: Continuously variable transmission. It's a transmission that doesn't really have gears and continuously adjusts the transmission ratio as you go.
I'm also adding the reason we don't see these types of transmissions or any internal hub transmissions in professional racing. A well maintained and properly shifted casette transmission has an efficiency of 95-97%. The very best planetary hub transmissions (Rohloff) have an efficiency of 92-95%. Then come the new gearboxes from Pinion with around 90% efficiency. The NuVinci CVT is approximately at 83%. As the op stated, with a CVT you gain a bit on that efficiency though, because you're always in the perfect gear. But how much? Let's make a quick estimate. On a typical transmission you have around 15 real gears in approximately 16% ratio steps. So the average "wrong" ratio is 8%. On a 300% transmission that means you're 24% off. The efficiency difference between bad and good on a Shimano casette is 2%. 24% of 2% are 0.48%. So the gain from having a CVT is 0.48%, which isn't really anything worth mentioning. As a whole the CVT drivetrain still remains below 85% efficiency and that's the reason we're not seeing this kind of transmission much. In my opinion the only real contenders for alternate transmissions are Rohloff for mountain bikes, commuters and travel bikes or Pinion for heavy-duty downhill bikes where low weight wheels really matter.
i have got into cycling just two months ago. i do road cycling and am buying a new road bike soon. your video was very helpful in understanding the maintenance of gear change. i will follow your advice closely
Great vid but one thing though, changing the rear cassette from big to small sprocket while shifting to smaller chainring at the same time could cause chain drop.
Fantastic video. I need to try this. I am so bad at this. I will try and remember. To remind me, move to the big, more up the rear cassette. Big to bigger. Then when moving big to lower, Low to lower.
Does it matter what year I start off in? I’m planning on looking at the chain to see if it lines of street like you said. Been riding motorcycles for too long forgot how to shift gears on a bike
Hi, Well, you asked for feedback. I suspect that the exact place for shifting probably depends on the setup you have. I have Shimano Ultegra 11-28 11sp on rear and FSA compact 34-50 on front with Ultrega shifting. This gives me the following gear increases: Gear FT RT % increase 1-1 34 28 1-2 34 25 112% 1-3 34 23 109% 1-4 34 21 110% 1-5 34 19 111% 1-6 34 17 112% 1-7 34 15 113% 1-8 34 14 108% 2-5 50 19 108% 2-6 50 17 112% 2-7 50 15 113% 2-8 50 14 107% 2-9 50 13 108% 2-10 50 12 108% 2-11 50 11 109% If I was to change from 1-7 to 2-5, the increase would be 116%, the tallest change in the range and would require a rear shift of 2 cogs while the default max shift is 3 cogs. So, that would be an awkward shift to make. However, shifting 1-8 to 2-5 is half that increase 108% and is the default 3 cog max shift. Also, the next cog at 1-9 (34/13 = 2.62) is as close as it gets to the exact same ratio as 2-5 (50/19 = 2.63), making the range change from 1-8 to 2-5 just fit the natural progression of gearing. Also, the adjustment and clearances of the FD just work perfectly for shifting here. While this means 8 ratios for the low range and 7 for the high range which may seam odd, the fact that so many things work coincidentally to shift here makes me suspect it may well be the design intent despite that the front cogs align with 5 & 7 on the rear which on cursory inspection may lead to assuming a 1-7 to 2-5 shift. I guess you may need to go through that again carefully to get my drift.
Omg I once saw a Di2 working just like this. I tried to emulate manually what the electronic shifting would do on my bike's chainset, just for curiosity, and shifting was soooo smooth. And now I find out thanks to this video, that that's actually the right way to shift xD Man, curiosity pays off so nice sometimes
I've just bought a bike and wondered if I was correct that front sproket needs to line-up with back sprockets to help friction, noise, wear and tear, etc. This video was very helpful, thank you!
Wow great video ... I learned something I never knew or thought about, is to change the front simultaneously as changing the back to avoid cross chain etc. Thanks
Brand new to this sport. Would have been helpful if a shot of the front gears was included. I’m completely lost. I’m sure it’s simple but I’m only a few months into this sport and all the gear and philosophies make my head dizzy. Show me with pictures 😅
All bikes have the WORST gear shifting experience, there is no bike with perfect gearing - my first initial thought, having been riding a bicycle from early days, but never understood how to actually do a proper gearing, wow, this is an eye opening moment. I've been using gear WRONG all these years, and also gearing while pedaling hard, no wonder why chain breaks and skipping in gears happened. Thank you!
When using front shifter wire til end and worn bolt in button axel, I used smaller sprocets. They are less worn on casette and easy to change gears simultaneously. I had to figure which buttons to push to make shifting higher and lower. Once I got it, it was quite handy. After wire broke, I bought new wire and turned this worn bolt on left hand button. At first changing front gear it made a cling-sound, because it was tighter than usually and springs were maybe on tighter too inside changer button mechanism. I used parts until they break, so the last time will be more difficult and a bit uncomfortable to use, but it works as a strategy.
You've pretty much summed up what I tell people when I go out riding! Now my question is, how do you take away load when sprinting out of the saddle? It doesn't feel natural no matter how many times I practice...
I think this video is more of a "how to reduce gear changes under load" rather than eliminating it altogether. There will always be a time when gear changes under load occur, however it's about improving on the 80-90% of gear changes, that if done properly will reduce wear on your drive system, while retaining efficient power. Really great video!
For me I change the cassette two or three heavier before sprinting, sacrificing a little in the initial pedaling, as long as at top speed the cadence is correct.
I don't have brake/shift levers, I have bar end shifters on the drops of my handlebar, where the plugs go. So I can only change one at a time because I have to take my hand of the brake lever to change gears. I have never thought about that solution for cadence drop when shifting into the big chainring, I will somehow try simultaneous shifting now! Thanks a lot for this info!!!!! Very helpful :)
Bar end shifters are common on touring bikes meant to carry camping or touring gear. With saddle bags or heavier loads this double shifting would be difficult and probably inadvisable. A racing bike is an entirely different animal. Keeping a chainline as close to the middle of the cassette as possible is a useful take away though.
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I've been riding for years, and I've never really taken the time to explore this subject beyond "Don't shift under load" and "Don't cross-chain". This was a great video.
Does that mean let go a bit from the pedals for a second while you shift?
@@hectichive889 essentially, yes. If you try to shift to a larger sprocket while you're putting pressure down to the pedals, it puts unnecessary stress on the drivetrain components. It will usually still work, it's just not good in the long term for your drivetrain.
@@robbie6625, Ah okay! I was wondering what he meant by putting a load on it. That makes sense. Thanks!
I thought I was the only one!
Like he says you’ll end up shifting under load all the time. Ideally you’d know what gear you need to be in and be in the right gear before you need to be in it. In real life we mess that up and need to shift while we go. But def don’t cross the chain. That’s bad for the chain.
Not sure if this was ever said, but for the front gears on all Shimano 105, Dura Ace and Ultegra, the shifting "tracks" from the smaller gear to the bigger gear are positioned when your right leg is up, and starting to go down. So if you use/apply the shifter from smaller gear to the bigger gear when the right leg is up, and just about to go down, the shifting is much quicker and smoother than any other leg "position" (or pedal rotation). This avoid any chain rubbing and makes the front gear changes much smoother. Cheers!
Thanks for the tip dude👍
Oh sick tip, thanks
Beginner cyclist here. YOU just taught me how to shift gears! I am going out right now to put it into practice. Thank you!!
Inspiration is always good!!!
How are you now, 2 years into cycling? I just learned to ride a bike after a couple months of trying to learn on my own.
@@si7273 I think Bill meant he's a beginner racing cyclist. I think you are talking about riding a bike all together.
That's amazing! How old are you and how long did it take you to feel comfortable?
Sorry, I'm just curious, haha. I live in the Netherlands, so I don't know anyone who hasn't ridden a bike since they were 3 years old.
@@jsmit9484 learned how to bike after ridingg friends bike for 3x..now got my own bike after 13 years...I'll say it's pretty easy..just need confidence..ofc training for stamina
My suggestion for 3x drivetrains.. Always start at 2nd gear on front and the middle gear for the rear cogs (for instance in 7 speed the middle is 4th gear) , then start pedaling and if u need to speed up, move to third gear on front and if you feel to add again then go to 5th gear in rear and so on.. And when uphill, from 2x4 move to 1x4 and if you still need some, move to 3rd, 2nd and so on in the rear cogs..
I'm sure there are another 100k people with my story. But I've bought a cheap bike so I don't have to buy gas. I only have 5miles, but there's a REALLY big hill.
I instinctively have started in the middle in the front. But this comment totally made me see better thx.
Wow this comment helps me a lot! Thankyou
I do it a bit differently, because under load, especially when loaded with camping gear, it is allways easyer to go from big to small .
I prefer to keep the easy and immediate downshift in reserve, so I usually keep the middle on the front all the way, and then when that becomes too hard I shift down with the front derailleur, which is easy, allso because the chain allready lies towards that side. When I was riding through the German woods I had a 3x7 that did it very well with these combinations.
Most underrated comment 🤟🏻👏🏻
Thank you. I've been riding a 21-speed mountain bike for about five years now and recently realised I was using the gears wrongly. This explains it perfectly for me.
I’ve been practicing this while keeping my cadence at 85-90 , self taught from years of cycling as you mention , dropping down front or going into big ring is too big and totally messes up your rhythm. Nice to see this taught 👍
I am 67 next week and cycle road and trail occasional. This video opened my eyes . I never knew the chain line straightness was so important and also the need to take the strain off changing gears. Thank you. Watched video twice now.!
The double shift may be the most helpful thing I have ever learned in my life! Thank you
Agree :)
@@cannondany I have a 8 speed bike when I change from 7 to 8 gear as I'm in 7 it's quite a wait for it to go to 8 when before it was quicker. Any idea what that is about?
okami ps4 its your rear derailleur screw you need to adjust the H screw
I thought of doing ut, but was not sure if I would mess something up, so I never did it. Glad to find out it is okay.
@@snap_drama346 agjust the barrel adjuster on he rear derailleur
it will be great if you includes also a camera on how u change the shiftier simultaneously
I'll try to make it next time.
SickBiker yes please! I also don't understand how you shift two gears at once on the cassette... Please show us the hands. Thanks and keep up the good work
Antonio Duarte some better shifters have possibility to change two gears at once, you just have to push the lever further after it clicks once
To add to what TheK4ptur wrote. Some shifters can do 2 gears through a stroke, others can do 3 gears per stroke. These are are usually mid to high grade components. Think Ultegra. To shift simultaneously you need only use both your left and right hand on the STI style of brifters. One hand for the left hand to shift the front cogs, one hand for the right hand to shift the rear cogs. I do hope you understand my messages. Greetings.
I'm pretty sure what he's doing is changing gears with both hands at the same time: the right hand is doing the shift in the rear at the very same time that the left hand is doing the shift in the front. Very good riders do it all the time, but I haven't gotten it down yet.
You explained a complex concept in a non-native language in such a clear and comprehensible way that I’m more impressed by that than the actual tutorial. Well done.
Wow, I've wondered about this for years, pretty much my whole life.
I've asked much more avid cyclists than myself including cyclist that participate in races with expensive racing bikes and no one ever really seemed to understand how gear shifting was suposed to be done given there are two shifters, one for the front sprocket and one for the back.
So glad I stumbled across this and finally understand.
Oh, thanks so much :)
Many years ago, when I was just getting serious I was training with a very experienced West Coast tri-athlete. He broke it down for me with this,,, "AJ... will you PLEASE try and keep the chain straight !" It finally clicked... Don't think "big and little" sprockets... Think, "right and left."
Matt Smith haha! Exactly what I was about to write...
Matt Smith uiixoocfosaa
i have phoenix racing cycle
Before bike computers, we had to memorize our gear ratios and know the crossover points between the cranks and cogs. For example, a crank/cog 42/13 = 53/17. So, 42/13 had too much crossover which is solved by progressing to 53/17. Knowing gear-inches is the equivalent of knowing gear ratios.
When you were changing gears it was so smooth and satisfying
Yea mine always get stuck
Next sooo Smooth you can stick a penny on the bike without it falling off
excellent video. i was concerned about changing gears in the front & back at the same time. i am glad that not only is it the right thing to do (when appropriate), but it also takes the load off the chain / drivetrain. thank you for the explanation / clarification!
This was an eye opener. I am on the highest gear 80% of the time however this will come in handy on those steeper climbs.
This video was about advanced techniques to avoid frictional losses. If you're not even using gears besides your your highest gear, you have a lot to learn before you even think about this video...
@@frederickschulze8014 he said he is on the highest gear 80% of the time. This doesn't mean he isn't using anything else.
You just don't get what he is saying: (down) shifting under load is much easier and efficient if you have a preference for the higher gears in the front, because you can downshift fast there
This ratio seems realistic for me, too (having 3x9). Usually I don't need the lowest gears, so the lowest one in the front is used seldom. The second gear is only used uphill and I don't care about big shifting differences, so mostly I use the big one in the front
as a completely new biker .. this is the best video on youtube to learn shifting
Wow, you just changed my life with this technique with the simultaneous shift with crank & drivetrain. Much appreciated!
Oh, that's cool!
@@cannondany the simultaneous shift of front and rear derailleur will not damage the group set, right?
This is one of the most useful skills I have ever learned. Takes some getting used to but this makes descents after immediately steep climbs a lot easier. Though my rear shifter doesn't have multiple clicks to go down more than one gear at a time it's no biggie
Tried double shifting today and it worked very well for me, thanks for the great tutorial.
I learned it the hard way, chain fell of like 20 times than i understood when to shift, but for a daily use of a bike (i am 17 so i use it as a car ~15km daily) on flat terrain go 5 on the rear and 3 on the top one, gives a lot of energy and its possible to easy start
Finally someone who explained it in such detail with an amazing close-up video! Thank you!
I just started on a road bike and happens to look down on my chain and wondered how to make less work for it. Thank you for this video! You explain so clear and the camera angle was a great view! Great job on all your videos
good
view 🎳🎳🎿🏈🏈🏉🏉🏈🏉🏈🏉🏈🏉🏉🏉🏉🏉🏈🏉🏈🏉🏉🏉🏈🏈
Pedaling a little less before shifting was something I figured out in my own sort of on accident. I never knew there was an actual reason for it. Great video.
A good mechanic will always be willing to teach us how to maintain our bikes, making them more dependable and safe to ride in any situation we encounter, keeping in mind that a bicycle chain was not designed to have any horizontal play in it. The chain is free to move at the pins to roll over the sprocket and cassette. Cross chain gear selections, over time, will degrade or break the chain and prematurely wear the sprocket and cassette. Thanks for detail explanation. Your chart provided the visual that also helped. Good job.
Ive purchased new bike- 2nd hand Merida BIG.NINE 300. I thought ive got scammed, as my chain would get out of place so very often. I considered going to a repair shop. few hours before my scheduled ride to the store, I found this video. HANDS DOWN the only video that explains simultaneous gear shifting. Ive made a nice deal, and improved from 'dummies shifting' with a forgiving bike to higher level, to save some Wats and enjoy whole new depth of riding. Thanks, 6 years later :)
I’ve returned to a road bike after 25 years. My last one had 12 gears. This has 18. This video was very helpful !!
dang, I think mine only has 5
Thank you so much for this video. I got my first road bike yesterday and saw this video a week ago. I cycled 60 km home from the store, and during the ride I practiced this shifting. Compared to a mountain bike, the technique is different and your video helped me a lot.
I'm mid 50's and just starting to bicycle for fun, other than the pre drivers license stuff. I've got a 3x6 and have been practicing using only 4 cogs for each ring since I've learned about cross chaining. Double shifting is probably beyond me on my cheap mountain bike (1995 Magna Mountain Tamer) that I use for road riding (15mph avg for 30 miles). I'm having fun learning all the adjustments and efficiency points.
you really hit the nail on the head. I found I was already concerning myself with my chain line (I think anyone who pays attention to their bike should) but you did a good job at teaching me about how to avoid those hard shifts. all I could add is to stress what gear you should be in. Don't over exert yourself or your equipment. keep in mind that your bike is a mechanical thing and try to understand what it is doing when you change 6 gears at once up hill... cheers all
I am a 55 year old man and a newbies to MTB. Learn so much from your video. Keep up the good sharing.!!
Beautiful and simple tutorial. Probably the clearest explanation online about this. It took me a while to develop this and this video makes it easy to pass it on to beginners. Keep up with the great videos!
Thanks Thiago!
53 years old and I have been doing it wrong all along. Thank you. Great video.
congratulations
This is an excellent video, I learnt a lot and I am guilty of some of the mistakes shown. Never shifted front and rear gear together. Thanks a lot
Just got a new hybird bike! Ive never focused on how to drive the bicycle propely and i wondered if i could go faster easier. This video was really helpful! Now i can go faster without so much fatigue!
Here I thought double shifting was bad, very good video explaining the shifting. Makes total sense, explained. Been practicing early in the morning so that my granny shifting isn't as noticeable😂.
This simultaneous gear change is most important point and u would find it nowhere on TH-cam ❤❤❤
Great presentation 👏. I never liked the excessive noise and quickly shifted. Your teaching has showed me exactly why and what causes the noise. Thank you 😊.
I haven’t ridden in years and just bought a recumbent trike with 24 gears so I’m having a heck of a time learning this. Great into…if I can remember it!
This was the first helpful video I watched based on gear changing.
The general idea of how and when to change the gears is helpful, and the gear change will probably be smoother. However, as others have said, it could be explained better and more briefly and in what circumstances you would and would not do it.
Wow great explanation for me, I'm an everyday commuter cyclist but really didn't know much about optimal shifting and using the gears most effectively.
Theoretically, if you derail both gears like the cassette and chain ring simultaneously it could cause a chain slip especially if you have lots of load on a pedal (like on a race day). The reason is, both gears are not properly engaged at this situation, so be extra cautious when doing this on the road. (just an advice).
Just to echo you, I heard that on GCN as well.
The poster of this video is advocating to NOT shift under load.... You guys don't know anything, so you have to echo what the GCN douches say... The whole point of this video is to discuss all aspects of proper shifting. One big aspect that is a super efficiency maximizer is the simultaneous shifting of BOTH derailleurs.... I am a cyclist but also ride a rickshaw that transports people while pedaling a bike..... I can tell you that never in my life before had I ever thought of the simultaneous double shift until I was hauling 6-8 people and needed to conserve momentum. In these conditions, you become acutely aware that the best way to do this is the simultaneous double derailleur shift to get the gear that beat suits your needs based on the weight you're carrying, the grade and speed.... If you want to develop your shifting intuitive prowess, just ride along at a certain cadence and see how quickly you can switch from big to small or small to big front chain rings while simultaneously adjusting the rear gears accordingly to maintain what feels to be similar cadence..... The faster you can do this without having to think about it, the more efficient and better shifter you will become at this. This is a skill and a mental mindset that a higher level cyclist can do without thinking about it....
Anybody who wants to understand even further, needs only to make a chart as to the tooth count of both front sprockets and the rear cassette. Divide the tooth count of each front by each of the sprockets on the rear and make a chart. Once you have made all the calculations, you will see how there will be almost identical numbers between the larger and smaller chain rings as they are on different rear sprockets of the cassette. These are the shift points that will result in the almost identical cadence on a flat... With this knowledge, based on whether you are accelerating, decelerating from a lower or higher speed, or entering the start of a rise, you will start to be able to choose a gear ratio that allows you to, say, maintain as much momentum as possible. One other really good technique for a shorter, punchier rolling hills setup would be, at the right moment, to downshift to a gear that is actually a bit too short that will momentarily spike your cadence to 120-130 RPM. This basically takes advantage of the momentum you have on the flat or downhill before you start going up the hill. The downshift to the shorter gear that spikes the cadence to 120-130 RPM translates that momentum into forward acceleration without having to use your muscles to get that acceleration. This obviously will not help much for a long climb, but when done properly, conserves a decent amount of explosive energy that is used on rolling hills type terrain. Having super refined shifting skills with both derailleurs simultaneously will allow you to extract every single bit of momentum in this situation. For example, the longer it takes you to make the correct shift, the more momentum you will lose, and the more tired/less competitive you will be say in a road race situation. Think of yourself as a race car driver and the better of a shifter your are in an identical car, the faster you will be....
@@paolocastellano4848 GCN douches?
@@JR-wj9bh :O
@@JR-wj9bh GCN Douches! Yes they are often just an infomercial trying to push and market their sponsors products. They do have some good content, but they also push lots of falsehoods as well. It is always good to be a critical thinker and to analyze what the channel is pushing. Like their slamming of rim brakes and mechanical shifting for example. Not all of us need or can afford a $1500 to $2500 Groupset and a plastic frame the implodes upon impact. My entire bike is that much and shifts and brakes as good or better than Di2. There is a dollars and cents ulterior motive to lots of the "information" they are hawking.
Thank you for this video. I wrote the explanation for myself and I wanted to know if it is correct.
SHIFTING GEARS: Shifting means to move the bike chain from one gear to another. It is performed using the levers on the handles. Each time the lever clicks, it has selected another gear.
Front Wheel: Entire assembly is called a Crankset. A sprocket is a single chainring.
There are usually three chainrings which are commonly referred to as front gears.
Shifting the front gears is performed by pushing one of the triggers or levers on the LEFT handle of the bike (LEFT = FRONT).
The larger lever moves the chain to a larger chainring or gear which makes pedaling harder. The smaller lever moves the chain to a smaller chainring which makes pedaling easier.
Rear Wheel: (CORRECTION as per Sebastian) The set of rear gears is called a Cassette. A cog is a singe ring or gear. There are usually 7 - 11 cogs or gears in the rear.
Shifting the rear gears is performed by pushing one of the triggers or levers on the RIGHT handle of the bike (RIGHT = REAR). The larger lever moves the chain to a larger chainring or gear which makes pedaling easier. The smaller lever moves the chain to a smaller chainring which makes pedaling harder.
Yes, it is opposite. Another way to say this is the smaller of the two shifter levers will move the chain into smaller rings. So, small=small. Shifting into smaller rings with your RIGHT hand will make the pedaling HARDER. Shifting into the smaller gears with your LEFT hand will make the pedaling EASIER.
The total number of gears on the bike is determined by the number of front gears x rear gears. Eg. 3 front x 11 rear = 33 gears.
Lower gear - lower number which makes it easier to pedal BUT decreases the power you get from each pedal. Good for climbing. Larger gear in the rear, smaller gear in the front.
Higher gear - higher number which makes it harder to pedal BUT increases the power you get from each pedal. Smaller gear in the rear, larger gear in the front.
Try not to shift gears when pedaling really hard.
Try to keep the chain as straight as possible meaning if your front gear is on the largest ring (the outer most gear) and your rear gear is on the largest ring (the inner most gear), the chain will be on its largest possible angle when looking at the chain from the rear of the bike.
Dr. Steven Horwitz Thank you so much for the explanation. I got clarification on all the basic gear shifting from reading your post in a minute verse spending so much time watching videos.
Thanks so much!
Dr. Steven Horwitz almost all of this is correct.
One small mistake: the cassette is just the rear gears, not included anything else.
I don't know how everything together (Cassette and rear derailer) is called
Perfect. Thank you!!
ive watched so many videos ramble on and on but this explanation is perfect and straight to the point! cheers
A difference between shifting with the front derailleur and the rear which becomes important when going slow, like mountainbiking uphill with camping gear, is that the entire rear wheel of your bike has to turn around a lot before you have shifted one gear , at which point you are standing still allready, and when you change the front you are allmost instantaneusly in the new gear at full force. So when climbing over difficult terrain I prefer keeping the middle chainring on the front untill I reached the biggest one behind. That way I have my chain in a position in which it is easy to make a big downshift with the front derailleur, and easily shift up with the rear deraileur.
When in a playfull mood in town I use the front gears like a stick shift in a car so I put the chain somewhere in the middle behind, and accelerate shifting up the front derailleur,
because you shift at high RPM this goes very smooth and you only lose power for a split second, and it feels a lot quicker than taking off without shifting. When I have to stop at a bridge I allways shift down before stopping.
Now that's really a professional advise and real technique from a pro thanks! Feel the comfort in the cadence each time. And the double almost simultaneous action on the derailer and the sprockets is simply brilliant!
Ive been told not to change gears at the same time but watching this video I feel confident your ok to change all at the same time!
Just bought my first road bike. This was super helpful. Thank you!
Many thanks. I’m a newbie. Try about 4 days trying to adjust the back derailer, front derailer, H and L screw, even as far as the B tension screw. I still cannot shift the 2x9 smoothly. Either gear slip, or will not change. I am certain, no matter how many gears behind. If the front is not aligned to drive the back. A little bump on the road or track, will change the gears. All the sponsored channels will not divulge the truth to riding. Great video from you. Thanks, as you just confirmed my doubts on tuning my bike
On the maximum gear number, the reason why it gets difficult to spin the pedal because the torque gets lower.
Thank you so much brother for this insightful presentation... The confusion and fear associated with gears are now 80% gone just that 20% of hard work and persistent practice on my part will perhaps help me master the much feared gearing technique especially while riding 😃
Thanks a million ton sir... 👍👍👍
Thank you for this great visual demonstration. I also have a 2 X 11 drivetrain on my MTB and I will remember when to shift to at the front.
Whilst you took time to explain from the rear, there are many of us who need to see a small inset vide showing the movements on the right and left hand. If you include such will be much appreciated.
Now I understand what's the difference between high gear & low gear pedaling. Thanks for the info.
very good explanation of the chains but can you also talk more about the gear numbers when on the flat, going uphill and going down hill for beginners
Just got my first road bike and can't thank you enough for how you explained the not just the how but WHY
Finally, someone explained how to do a smooth transition and didn't just say, don't do a cross chainning.
Thank you my friend!!!
Fàntastic demonstration of economy of motion. Granted I am a rookie mountain biker who hasn't been in the saddle for 20+ years and recently acquired a Felt 9 five and beginning to breath a freedom I have not had in decades. I have had tunnel vision until this video with the mind set of changing gears from one aspect at a time. I am almost imbearest to admit I never considered manipulating both drove sprocket and cassette simultaneously. I also understand now that it is most efficient when chain alignment is most true. Thank you sir for the enlightenment.
thanks for the tips. i always never liked changing to the smaller chain ring but now i will.
Amazing tutorial. I just discovered the 2 gears I normally cycle with on two different sprockets are the worst possible and aren't going straight. The moment I used the gear equivalent but using a different sprocket to line it up I felt like I was using so much less power - thank you!
Excellent video. Just took up road biking after 15 years of mtb. Never to late to learn better habits ( 70 year old)
I now finally understand how to change gear wtf. This kind of explanation is what I'm looking for just need to spend a lot of time to practice. Thank you so much!!!! 😊🙋
Thank you,
Sir, you solve my problem.
My bike was making some type of horrible sounds when I used to change my bike gears and I asked my bike dealer several times about it, but they just used to made useless excuses.
But now I understand the whole thing.
Thank you once again 😊
Great demo for beginners. I used this video to teach my wife whom is riding for the first time a multi gear bike. Previous to that she was used only to 1 speed freewheels.
This was the most useful video I have watched in a long time! I’m about to get my new bike and had no clue about gears. Now at least I know how not to ruin the chain! Thanks!
I have a giant defy advanced 2, and its my first road endurance bike. Just got into gears from a fixie, and super helpful video. I knew about not changing it under load but I didn't know you can shift the rear cogs AND the chainring at the same time. I thought it had to be done 1by1
Since making an automatic shifter for my NuVinci CVT I've learned what a massive difference to power output, efficiency and ride experience being in the perfect gear makes. You know that feeling when you hit the sweet spot, the perfect gear ratio for the situation but its gone so quickly due to a change in speed. With a CVT I'm able to stay in that sweet spot 100% of the time.
CVT?
The God Of Awesome: Continuously variable transmission. It's a transmission that doesn't really have gears and continuously adjusts the transmission ratio as you go.
I'm also adding the reason we don't see these types of transmissions or any internal hub transmissions in professional racing. A well maintained and properly shifted casette transmission has an efficiency of 95-97%. The very best planetary hub transmissions (Rohloff) have an efficiency of 92-95%. Then come the new gearboxes from Pinion with around 90% efficiency. The NuVinci CVT is approximately at 83%.
As the op stated, with a CVT you gain a bit on that efficiency though, because you're always in the perfect gear. But how much? Let's make a quick estimate. On a typical transmission you have around 15 real gears in approximately 16% ratio steps. So the average "wrong" ratio is 8%. On a 300% transmission that means you're 24% off. The efficiency difference between bad and good on a Shimano casette is 2%. 24% of 2% are 0.48%. So the gain from having a CVT is 0.48%, which isn't really anything worth mentioning. As a whole the CVT drivetrain still remains below 85% efficiency and that's the reason we're not seeing this kind of transmission much.
In my opinion the only real contenders for alternate transmissions are Rohloff for mountain bikes, commuters and travel bikes or Pinion for heavy-duty downhill bikes where low weight wheels really matter.
Useful video with great camera point of view. Why would over a thousand viewers thumb it down?
i have got into cycling just two months ago. i do road cycling and am buying a new road bike soon. your video was very helpful in understanding the maintenance of gear change. i will follow your advice closely
Great vid but one thing though, changing the rear cassette from big to small sprocket while shifting to smaller chainring at the same time could cause chain drop.
this was the first thing i thought. as it happened to me quite a few times unfortunately
Amazing demonstration. Best tip was changing both rear and front rings together to get smooth shifting and less impact to drivetrain and power.
Good to know. we end up buying expensive bike but fail to learn the basics. keep posting good tips like this one
Fantastic video. I need to try this. I am so bad at this. I will try and remember. To remind me, move to the big, more up the rear cassette. Big to bigger. Then when moving big to lower, Low to lower.
ive tried 1 sprocket and 3 chainrings works perfectly eliminates excessive cross. drivetrain works for years and years
I had been double shifting on my 3x7 bike, but mostly just because I liked the feel of it. I guess there was a reason why it felt easier after all!
Great info. Good production too with the camera angle, was an excellent way to show it.
thank you sir for ur tips on how to change gear correctly..watching from the Philippine...more power to ur chanel.
Thank you, finally found a video demonstrating what I believed to be the right way to shift.
Thank you so much, this way very informative. My shifting usually is by trial and error :-)
This takes time to do it right ,
I think anticipating what is coming ( uphill or downhill ) helps too .
Does it matter what year I start off in? I’m planning on looking at the chain to see if it lines of street like you said. Been riding motorcycles for too long forgot how to shift gears on a bike
Hi,
Well, you asked for feedback. I suspect that the exact place for shifting probably depends on the setup you have. I have Shimano Ultegra 11-28 11sp on rear and FSA compact 34-50 on front with Ultrega shifting.
This gives me the following gear increases:
Gear FT RT % increase
1-1 34 28
1-2 34 25 112%
1-3 34 23 109%
1-4 34 21 110%
1-5 34 19 111%
1-6 34 17 112%
1-7 34 15 113%
1-8 34 14 108%
2-5 50 19 108%
2-6 50 17 112%
2-7 50 15 113%
2-8 50 14 107%
2-9 50 13 108%
2-10 50 12 108%
2-11 50 11 109%
If I was to change from 1-7 to 2-5, the increase would be 116%, the tallest change in the range and would require a rear shift of 2 cogs while the default max shift is 3 cogs. So, that would be an awkward shift to make.
However, shifting 1-8 to 2-5 is half that increase 108% and is the default 3 cog max shift. Also, the next cog at 1-9 (34/13 = 2.62) is as close as it gets to the exact same ratio as 2-5 (50/19 = 2.63), making the range change from 1-8 to 2-5 just fit the natural progression of gearing. Also, the adjustment and clearances of the FD just work perfectly for shifting here. While this means 8 ratios for the low range and 7 for the high range which may seam odd, the fact that so many things work coincidentally to shift here makes me suspect it may well be the design intent despite that the front cogs align with 5 & 7 on the rear which on cursory inspection may lead to assuming a 1-7 to 2-5 shift.
I guess you may need to go through that again carefully to get my drift.
I have a 1 x 7 Setup on My road bike. I don't have to worry about cross chaining or, switching the front and the rear mech at the same time.
Omg I once saw a Di2 working just like this. I tried to emulate manually what the electronic shifting would do on my bike's chainset, just for curiosity, and shifting was soooo smooth. And now I find out thanks to this video, that that's actually the right way to shift xD
Man, curiosity pays off so nice sometimes
As a Novice, it's great to see this and actually have confirmed what I've been thinking from the start. Thanks
Wow it´s uesful videos fr us
keep it up
I've just bought a bike and wondered if I was correct that front sproket needs to line-up with back sprockets to help friction, noise, wear and tear, etc. This video was very helpful, thank you!
I didn’t know that I am already doing this shifting technique, Awesome video!
Wow great video ... I learned something I never knew or thought about, is to change the front simultaneously as changing the back to avoid cross chain etc. Thanks
Brand new to this sport. Would have been helpful if a shot of the front gears was included. I’m completely lost. I’m sure it’s simple but I’m only a few months into this sport and all the gear and philosophies make my head dizzy. Show me with pictures 😅
All bikes have the WORST gear shifting experience, there is no bike with perfect gearing - my first initial thought, having been riding a bicycle from early days, but never understood how to actually do a proper gearing, wow, this is an eye opening moment. I've been using gear WRONG all these years, and also gearing while pedaling hard, no wonder why chain breaks and skipping in gears happened. Thank you!
now we are 2020 and you teached me something important. Many thanks and stay safe
I’ve ALWAYS thought this, but never actually did anything about it. Time to put it into practice!
Please show the the hand mechanism in the top right corner as you change the gears.
Beginner here.
I once broke my rear hanger of RB (3/8 drivetrain) due to shifting on load in uphill climb.
Great video. Can't believe this isn't common knowledge, it's so simple.
😂omg thank you so much I was having troubles while going up hill and this is my first time so I didn't knew much abt gear
When using front shifter wire til end and worn bolt in button axel, I used smaller sprocets. They are less worn on casette and easy to change gears simultaneously. I had to figure which buttons to push to make shifting higher and lower. Once I got it, it was quite handy. After wire broke, I bought new wire and turned this worn bolt on left hand button. At first changing front gear it made a cling-sound, because it was tighter than usually and springs were maybe on tighter too inside changer button mechanism. I used parts until they break, so the last time will be more difficult and a bit uncomfortable to use, but it works as a strategy.
Double shifting, definitely giving this one a try, thanks for making this super uncluttered and to the point
You've pretty much summed up what I tell people when I go out riding! Now my question is, how do you take away load when sprinting out of the saddle? It doesn't feel natural no matter how many times I practice...
I think this video is more of a "how to reduce gear changes under load" rather than eliminating it altogether. There will always be a time when gear changes under load occur, however it's about improving on the 80-90% of gear changes, that if done properly will reduce wear on your drive system, while retaining efficient power. Really great video!
For me I change the cassette two or three heavier before sprinting, sacrificing a little in the initial pedaling, as long as at top speed the cadence is correct.
Hi there
To avoid the obvious, having myself a bad case of stress about drive train position. I’ve just switched over to one drive crank in the front!
I don't have brake/shift levers, I have bar end shifters on the drops of my handlebar, where the plugs go. So I can only change one at a time because I have to take my hand of the brake lever to change gears.
I have never thought about that solution for cadence drop when shifting into the big chainring, I will somehow try simultaneous shifting now! Thanks a lot for this info!!!!! Very helpful :)
Bar end shifters are common on touring bikes meant to carry camping or touring gear. With saddle bags or heavier loads this double shifting would be difficult and probably inadvisable. A racing bike is an entirely different animal. Keeping a chainline as close to the middle of the cassette as possible is a useful take away though.
This was super useful. A split screen that shows your hands would be useful as well. I am just learning. Subscribed.