Hi Yanka did a hell of a job with this sub. I bought a pair and was thoroughly impressed by them. I ran them for a couple weeks till I upgraded to a pair of NVX VCW's (which are magnificent) the yanks are awesome though. If they had a name that was familiar, they could easily sell for $125 to $150 without any credible complaints.
Yeah them Skar sucks I even had their pro audio was crap … I went with DS18 way better by far another level of audio power handling and priced cheap $115 for a 250 watts rms components
The new amazon budget sub is WLLDSE, its the new bomb, the 12 is now $142 (I paid $122!) the 15 is $145, it has a 200oz double stack, 3" copper coil and SA/U cast frame, the hiyanka is good but a 2.5" coil. I bought a 12 on a why not... $122 with features hell, it showed up I instantly ordered a 2nd. I'm testing 2 on my cab45 amp @ .5 ohm and they slam... No I'm not giving it all to em that would be just risky to a 1200w sub but I have givin the pair more than 2400 I'd think. Oh btw it also came encased in a foam block in 2 boxes!
I have 2 12 inch Rockville K6 I push them with a audiopipe 1500 mono Amp. I blew 2 sets of skarbage subs before my K6 and I'm going 3 years of rocking my K6 subs! Talk about low budget my subs cost me $70 each, and the Amp was $99 that was during covid. Oh yeah I rock my subs everyday as they are in my work truck a 2003 silver king cab under seat build.
Rockville subs are tha truth, minus the k9 debacle a few years back. I'm running 4 punisher 12s on a wolfram o 5000 amp lovin it. Started out with the k6s in our cars a pair of 12 was in mine and 2 sets of 10s 1 for set for both kids and the were that thang.
Nicely done, you just murdered one of my most long held beliefs that surround size contributed to excursion. That's wild, but good to know, now that I'm back on the car audio market after some time away
Bought two of these guys in the 12" and they hit, perfect for the setup I wanted and sounds fantastic. I'm not going anything competition just wanted some thump in the hatch. Awesome review and love the channel!
Thanks to your video, I picked up a dual 2ohm 12" H Yanka and installed it in a slot ported box for a kicker L7. Wired it @ 4ohms to a D4S JP8 amp.. and holy crap. I had a Kicker Comp in there before and this sub blows that Kicker out of the water. Once I upgrade my power/ground and speaker wire, Im going to rewire it at 1ohm on the JP8. Cant wait to hear it.. because at 500 watts.. it has to much more to give. Mine was packaged well, however, the box was printed wrong. It said the Dual 4ohm sub was 1800w and the Dual 2ohm sub was 1600w. The manual said the opposite. Their packaging department needs up upgrade.. but hey.. if they keep putting out banger subs for cheap, idgaf about the box.
@@DIYAudioGuy I have it in a 3CuFT American Sound ported box. I wired it at 1ohm last week and wow! I had to go back to 4ohm because I dont have the current to keep up with the JP8 @ 1ohm. lol. Voltage drop from 14.4 to 11.2 in 1 beat.
It's not necessarily about power handling, but it's about efficiency in my book so 100 watts at. 90 vs 100 watts at 93 in same style box the sub rated 93 only needs half the power to reach the same spl levels let's say at 130db for instance. That's big in a db drag! When dealing with stock current charging systems. So picking a efficient amp is key as well.
Just saying power rating don't mean a whole lot to me. I sent mtx 8100D into a hammer 10" dual 4 ohm sub rated at 250 watts. By Danny Benoit he hit a 147.7 he added one more 10 and one more amp he hit a 150.2db it was louder than his 4 amplifiers of the same type and 4 12" diamond audio in the same car. He also tried the jack hammer. The RFL, he tried several different subwoofers that year. He took home many trophies, his closest competition was someone at a USAC competition with 4 rockford fosgate 12's and 4- 1500 watt mono block amplifiers. While he had just 2 little 10s and 2 amplifiers. They were going back and forth in the db drag. Not joking. Then guess what... yup the rockford fosgate guy wasn't supposed to be in his class but in the class above him. 🤔 it's not necessarily about what you have but it's how you set it up. I've been in audio since the late 80s. And was the electronic store manager in thief river falls mn at the time, been out of it now since 2006 switched careers.
Myself I have a collection of old school amplifiers kenwood excelon, rockford punch 👊, kicker, orion amplifiers, soundstream, LA Sound, Hyphonics, Down4sound jp23 amp, soundstream Splx subwoofer, ect.... plus old school crown power bass 3, xti 4000, pioneer Elite amp, Kenwood sovereign receiver 7.2. Guess I just like the soul of some old school stuff. Is just some of the things I have
@@joeyholthusen6495 Maybe I'm blind, but I can't find many subs hitting 93db sensitivity. Even Kicker who brags about how hard they hit are only 88 with their top L7 square sub and 86 with their top of the line round sub. Same with DD Audio who brags about their massive hard hitting subs that are in the same 86 zone. JL audio... same 86 range for the top of the line.
@@marcuslinton310 my soundstream Splx subwoofer is 98 db, old school Subwoofers from ETI sound systems use to be stupidly efficient back in the 90s. Musical? No. Loud? Yes. My soundstream splx is not a SQ Subwoofer in any way. Trying to think of a few other. I'll look them up for you. Don't worry.
I picked up 2 of the 10" and 12" quite awhile ago. We installed each pair in seperate vehicles with 2 local guys. They've held up very well. I ran the tsp's on both sizes, and they were off by a tad, so it's pretty accurate. Patrick Chandler (Robot Underground) did a review on the sub awhile back, and I said then ..it's a Def budget banger, and sounds as good or better than a P3, SDR, SA, W3 and more. It has solid build quality, and don't let the price swerve you away from giving it a try. A lot of subs...are "parts bin" type drivers. Only because it's been used for years, and works. Great video man. 👍
@@SbassLaser you'd be more than surprised. Besides, sound quality is a subjective matter, and what may sound good to one person, may not to another. After 3 decades in audio as a whole(home, car, Soundstage/PA)I've heard great, bad and everything in between. Unfortunately, a P3 isn't that excellent of a driver. It's par, but nothing more. It isn't cutting edge technology, or much more different then it's other revisions prior to now. The last good P3 models, were made here, in the U.S years ago. Just because a driver doesn't have a quadruple inflated price tag(or more) doesn't mean it's not a good driver. This subwoofer, like most brands that start out being cost effective, will gain popularity, as well as a raise in consumer costs.
Subwoofers are not that subjective. They all sound the same in the grand scheme because 40hz is 40hz. Played within specs, they should all sound pretty much indistinguishable from each other. I would love to prove this by having a $1,000 challenge with 10 subs. Play them one at a time at 100 watts and let the "expert audiophile" guess which one is playing. The results would be no different then guessing. Get one wrong, I keep your $1,000, get them all right I pay you $1,000. The only question, these days, seems to be the obsession with pushing way more power then RMS through them. Once this occurs, that's when the quality kicks in. It becomes about which ones can handle being severely overpowered. For some reason, if they can't handle double the RMS non stop all day, people want to call them trash. I prefer to call it what it really is, the MFR sandbagging their RMS for some oddball reason. I don't know what the purpose of that is except to fool idiots in to paying way more for their subs thinking they are better quality when in reality you're just paying the true price for a 2000 RMS sub that is labeled 1000 RMS.
You should try some of the WLLDSE subwoofers too I’ve been eying those for a while. There’s some dude running 2 of their 15s in a extended cab and they seem pretty good. Who knows they might take the throne next.
i just built a sub box and the recommended volume is .35 but after recalculating my numbers the box is .31 does that .04 difference matter much this is my first time building a box and first time messing around with subs. the subs are the VD-8 | 8" 600 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer (Shallow Mount) from skar
and here i am with my twin MTX T5512's in their factory box and a Directed 400W amp that i've been using since 2005. Does my system sound muddy? yeah, kinda. does it owe me anything? not a penny. i've always been a fan of quality budget builds.
Love my skar dual loaded ,vented 8" svr s ,they hit hard! But either the box or my pioneer amp are struggling to ride the super lowes like an old 12" cerwin Vega with an old school punch amp did?
Skar underrates their subs by a large margin. Im running two VHF 12s @ 1 ohm on an Orion HCCAsplx 3k @ 14.2V, been on it for two years...with a Epicenter. They have never had a problem.
You should give Sound Town Ares 10 or 12. I had a pair of 10's on a Trauma 2k at 1ohm. Crazy. Especially for a little over $100 ea. 3 inch coils. 1000rms.
Maybe you can do a video about this but is there a reason subs have different TS parameter's when the voice coil resistance changes? I've noticed that if there's a sub that's the same but offered in lets say 1 ohm or 2 ohm that some of the specs will be different such as inductance. is this something that needs to be considered when designing a box? Or does it not matter?
This is because the coil itself must change to create the different DC resistance, more winds, possibly thinner wire which will mean more turns (more inductance), longer wind width (more mass), or some combination of those. There can be quite a noticeable difference in real world performance in throwing different coils in the same motor, but when you're trying to make a brand/model woofer with multiple impedance options you can generally get a dual 2 and dual 4 version to have similar enough specs that you could use them in the same box and the difference would be inaudible (less than 1dB). Whether you buy two of the subs in the video and they perform that close with the two coil options will depend on whether or not the factory made any effort to keep similar performance with the two different coil options. Either way, you can plug the specs into your favorite box modeling software and get a pretty good idea of how close different coil options on the same make/model sub will compare and they should be well within 1dB of each other all across the usable bandwidth.
The guy above is right .just model a box with the different paremeters and find out. i will say that a sub with a qts in the 4s will be a little forgiving of small changes in box design vs other subs
SKAR 12" subwoofer 1250 RMS watts, 2500 max, it started cracking as the bass hit. I had a 1500 skar amplifier on 2 ohms. I have never had such a bad experience. I have owned MTX TERMINATORS EARTHQUAKES ROCKFORD FOSGATE CERWIN VEGA AUDIOPIPE ECLIPSE KICKER COMP R MEMPHIS POWER ACOUSTIC MTX AUDIO BLUE THUNDER You name it I had it. This is my first Skar subwoofer I ever owned. Not happy.
Ive seen more blown audiopipes then i care to explain i even blew a bdc2 on 500rms and got a skar svr no issues then got another one and had that setup for 3 years and now i just got a zvx12
The svr dont sound as good as this, have both and then some. I was surprised at how great it sounds and ashamed that i paid so much for other subs that sound worse.
What's up with the only 45hz and up frequency response though? And what about the - Rockville W12K9D4 12" 4000w Peak, Dual 4-Ohm, 1000w RMS for only $119!? made in Japan
They had no problem playing below 45 hertz, I just picked the higher frequencies because they tend to get bigger numbers on the meter. I have not tried Rockville out yet.
I tried the skar 12 inch. Rockville and then the hyanka. Not even a comparison to the rockville its night and day better and my box is tuned for 37 hz. The hyanka hits deeper, louder and way better SQ. It sounds like a high end sub. And I'm pushing 1600 watts rms from a fosgate T1000 bdcp which puts out dynamic power. It bangs
@@kelvis1980 yeah not supprised I just watched a video they made 'demoing' their on wall speakers, it was embarrassing to say the least. if you want a laugh and a reason never consider them for anything again check the video- ' DEMO of The Rockville Rock Slim ' 2:40, the guy acting doesn't even try... evrything happening there is just terrible 🤣🤣
@@DIYAudioGuyon the listings they show low FR of 45hz? Is that perhaps a misprint? I'm really going back n forth on the NVX vsw 12 600rms and the lower power Yanka 12, and by reviews yanka hits harder nvx hits cleaner. I have a malibu 45deg hatchback so spl not really that necessary, but I'd love to see a battle.
The information available online shows the Skar RMS rating at 600 watts for the SDR 10, and the 10 inch H Yanka only rated at 500 watts RMS. Even for the 12 inch, I'm not seeing this higher power input rating for the H Yanka that you spoke of. The plus side to it being a parts bin driver is that readily available parts and some upgrade parts are available everywhere for rebuild. I think I'm going to try one of these in my truck because of this very reason.
I just reached out to them as well, via Amazon, got a direct email to them and they sent me 2 sets or 2 pair of the 6.5" components speakers with the crossovers an tweeters etc. Compared them side by side with ds18 red tips and they blow the ds18s out of the water!!!! Running them all off an alpine 4 channel amp driving all 4 door speakers. Very very impressed with them!!!!
I have a equation of probably some law I’ve not been able to read or digest, and it deals with wiring in series for speakers. I was going to wire a 3-way component set in my front doors, using in-line crossovers for the various speaker sizes. I was putting the 6” first, with bass filter, then 3.5” or 2” mid next in series using a higher frequency bass filter, and then a tweets last in series line on high pass filter. My question pertains to balanced power for each speaker set: does each speakers power handling ability dictate how much power it takes from the feed? If I feed 200 watts, will the power be absorbed equally in distribution to speakers? Or will my first speaker in series have to be not too power hungry for trailing speakers ability to get enough power? Cheers & thanks as always
I think you are heading in the wrong direction. This is to deep of a conversation for the TH-cam comments. I suggest that you download Xsim and model your crossover.
@@DIYAudioGuy Everything I tried from there was an amazing value. I did a back to back of the sdr vs Armada I'm the skar prefab. The Armada sounded better for lower and was 1.5db louder.
I have 2 12 inch Maximus in the Skar ar2x12v box, running on 1ohm and these fckers absolutely slam!! They're better than the EVLs. I have the DS18 GFX 3k1 pushing them. Check out the review for this amp. I paid 180 for the amp, and it was dyno tested at 3700 watts rms @ 1ohm
Can you review Deaf Bonce SA252 and the SA272 Dual 1 ohms? Would be very much appreciated. I think HYanka vs Deaf Bonce vs Skar would be an interesting comparison.
@@DIYAudioGuy also a friend of mine is also very into car audio and is meticulous with the highest performance builds for say a single sub can offer. He says I need a 3.66 cu ft sub enclosure for the Deaf Bonce SA DB252 D1 but in Deaf Bonce manual it says 1.8 cu feet and that's what I got the Q Bomb that has 1.84 cu ft. Could you potentially take a look at their manual that they provide for each sub? I would appreciate. Friend says I can wreck the subwoofer if it's used with an improper enclosure?
Good day to you Mr. DIY Audio Guy I have an off topic question if I may? When designing a subwoofer enclosure ,can it be too deep? although the recommended Net air space is maintained? would this have any negative effect on the given subwoofer[s] ? I ask because I was told that the subwoofer[s] would act as if it were in free air and thus unload being that it has no rear baffle to load off of.
What about wlldse subs? I just picked up 2 hcy-15s. Only have one in right now and it slams. It has no specs. Can you help? Would help with future box design.
I No longer have these subwoofers on hand. So I can't quite do that test. But if you hit the subscribe button and ring the bell I have some similar subwoofers sitting in the garage, I'm working on the script for that video.
I live in the south east and want to got to a car show specifically for big audio systems, does anyone have any suggestions for the biggest shows to attend? thanks
Off topic, on your recent amp rack rebuild I noticed you bought a lithium battery, did you upgrade your alternator too, or just the battery? And, if just battery, how's it working for you? Thanx as always
Only been hooked up for about a week at this point, but the battery seems to be holding up just fine. As far as the alternator: th-cam.com/video/MuksKiWpit0/w-d-xo.html
Due to funds and retiring soon, I’m stuck with keeping the 6 SDR 10’s I have in my truck. If one goes, I’ll have to replace it. Can’t afford to get 6 new ones. But the 6 Skar SDR’s have been working good so far. Take all the abuse I give them. Lol
I saw a NVX subwoofer there what do you think of them? I owned couple of their 15's back in the day the 750 to 1000 watt rms v1 models and thought they were really good but are they best in class for $209 bucks a pop? I have a Skar setuo their box with x2 SDR 600 watt rms subs they sound great but my car is insulated so well hard to get sound to the front so was thinking x2 12" NVX subs and buying another Skar RP 1200.1d amp subs will be 2 ohm dvs of course so both amps will be at 1ohm.
Well just got off Amazon looking for these. Only 10s are available. Something seems a little fishy to me. The d2 is 79.?? and 1200 peak and the d4 is 89.?? with 1000 peak. And yes the rms numbers also vary. Since when does ohm load change price and power handling. Any assistance would be appreciated
I don't know where this whole inches per cubic foot thing comes from. I've been trying to track down the original source for that rule of thumb and I just keep going in circles. The right thing to do is to model it in something like WINisd and make the port opening big enough so that you don't get chuffing
@DIY Audio Guy of the two tiers, last I looked, no-one has looked at the high performance series. Either way, I'm picking either of these two brands. Have a great week sir!
@@DIYAudioGuy thank you so much. I stumbled upon your channel by pure accident but have sat and watched so many of your videos. Your channel is amazing!
Hello 🙂 I am from Denmark and i have a Volkswagen up and i want to build a audio system but I don't exactly what fits me Can you please recommend Wich subwoofer, amplifier, speakers i should buy Thank you so much for all wonderful videos ❤
Hey get you (2) B2 Audio Rampage 12s, Ground Zero 6x9s, Ground Zero 1 inch dome tweeters, SounDigital amps; very good wiring, have your 12s in a ported box tuned; You can’t go wrong!!
The foam not being as wide as skars will lean into it having a cleaner sound. This subwoofer is most likely not going to stick around with that brand as they need to find an american name brand. I would also put money on that it is coming from JLD or another company like them that offers tons of off the shelf woofers for companies with their logos. A few companies have changed builders and this could be their way of getting rid of alot of old parts by shifting them under an off name.
Hi Yanka did a hell of a job with this sub. I bought a pair and was thoroughly impressed by them. I ran them for a couple weeks till I upgraded to a pair of NVX VCW's (which are magnificent) the yanks are awesome though. If they had a name that was familiar, they could easily sell for $125 to $150 without any credible complaints.
Couldn't agree more!
Hey man, im looking for a single 12” and as considering a kicker comp Q. I know theres good cheaper but don’t know how to pick one.
Would love to see a 15" or maybe even 18" version. Got a 12" here that I'll be building a box for when the weather gets nicer 😁
Sub definitely performs. I'm actually putting in H hyanka 6.5 component speakers in place of skar 6.5 and only 2months old. Nice post.😎👍🏾
👍
Yeah them Skar sucks I even had their pro audio was crap … I went with DS18 way better by far another level of audio power handling and priced cheap $115 for a 250 watts rms components
The new amazon budget sub is WLLDSE, its the new bomb, the 12 is now $142 (I paid $122!) the 15 is $145, it has a 200oz double stack, 3" copper coil and SA/U cast frame, the hiyanka is good but a 2.5" coil. I bought a 12 on a why not... $122 with features hell, it showed up I instantly ordered a 2nd. I'm testing 2 on my cab45 amp @ .5 ohm and they slam... No I'm not giving it all to em that would be just risky to a 1200w sub but I have givin the pair more than 2400 I'd think. Oh btw it also came encased in a foam block in 2 boxes!
👍
I have 2 12 inch Rockville K6 I push them with a audiopipe 1500 mono Amp. I blew 2 sets of skarbage subs before my K6 and I'm going 3 years of rocking my K6 subs! Talk about low budget my subs cost me $70 each, and the Amp was $99 that was during covid. Oh yeah I rock my subs everyday as they are in my work truck a 2003 silver king cab under seat build.
Rockville subs are tha truth, minus the k9 debacle a few years back. I'm running 4 punisher 12s on a wolfram o 5000 amp lovin it. Started out with the k6s in our cars a pair of 12 was in mine and 2 sets of 10s 1 for set for both kids and the were that thang.
Nicely done, you just murdered one of my most long held beliefs that surround size contributed to excursion. That's wild, but good to know, now that I'm back on the car audio market after some time away
Just because it has a big surround does not mean that it can move.
I really like that finish on the cone, looks like it's about 50-60 grit 😆
😃
Hahaha, I knew it looked familiar
Bought two of these guys in the 12" and they hit, perfect for the setup I wanted and sounds fantastic. I'm not going anything competition just wanted some thump in the hatch. Awesome review and love the channel!
Glad you like them!
I bought the 10" version a few months ago. The packaging was terrible, but the sub was undamaged. I power it with a JP8, and it bangs.
I am glad to hear that.
I just bought a Rockville 15". Its in a sealed box and sounds amazing.
Love mine, been running it for 2 months with a stinger 1500 and it loves it
Justin, thank you for a very informative and nice flowing video. :) Keep up the amazing work.
Thanks to your video, I picked up a dual 2ohm 12" H Yanka and installed it in a slot ported box for a kicker L7. Wired it @ 4ohms to a D4S JP8 amp.. and holy crap. I had a Kicker Comp in there before and this sub blows that Kicker out of the water. Once I upgrade my power/ground and speaker wire, Im going to rewire it at 1ohm on the JP8. Cant wait to hear it.. because at 500 watts.. it has to much more to give. Mine was packaged well, however, the box was printed wrong. It said the Dual 4ohm sub was 1800w and the Dual 2ohm sub was 1600w. The manual said the opposite. Their packaging department needs up upgrade.. but hey.. if they keep putting out banger subs for cheap, idgaf about the box.
If have riding around with this sub for a few weeks now. I think it may be a real sleeper.
@@DIYAudioGuy I have it in a 3CuFT American Sound ported box. I wired it at 1ohm last week and wow! I had to go back to 4ohm because I dont have the current to keep up with the JP8 @ 1ohm. lol. Voltage drop from 14.4 to 11.2 in 1 beat.
It absolutely is!!! Bought a D2 12 and it took lots of power and did really well on the lower notes. I gave it away on TikTok.
Cool!
Having that spider ring to hold down the spider is a plus when your slamming on subs. Very awesome design on that sub man.
Can't wait to see someone do a full SPL budget build with these.
Oh yeah!
I agree a 12 12s or 16 12s build would be pretty sweet.
I got a box for 3 12’s with an Orion XTR 2500 … I’m willing to give these a try … currently running old school W6’s in the box
@@bigtg42if you do this video it
My entry into subwoofers was a 12inch Orion XTR I still have it today and it's still kicking.
It's not necessarily about power handling, but it's about efficiency in my book so 100 watts at. 90 vs 100 watts at 93 in same style box the sub rated 93 only needs half the power to reach the same spl levels let's say at 130db for instance. That's big in a db drag! When dealing with stock current charging systems. So picking a efficient amp is key as well.
@@JasonWW2000 absolutely agree, vehicle, box design, several factors.
Just saying power rating don't mean a whole lot to me. I sent mtx 8100D into a hammer 10" dual 4 ohm sub rated at 250 watts. By Danny Benoit he hit a 147.7 he added one more 10 and one more amp he hit a 150.2db it was louder than his 4 amplifiers of the same type and 4 12" diamond audio in the same car. He also tried the jack hammer. The RFL, he tried several different subwoofers that year. He took home many trophies, his closest competition was someone at a USAC competition with 4 rockford fosgate 12's and 4- 1500 watt mono block amplifiers. While he had just 2 little 10s and 2 amplifiers. They were going back and forth in the db drag. Not joking. Then guess what... yup the rockford fosgate guy wasn't supposed to be in his class but in the class above him. 🤔 it's not necessarily about what you have but it's how you set it up. I've been in audio since the late 80s. And was the electronic store manager in thief river falls mn at the time, been out of it now since 2006 switched careers.
Myself I have a collection of old school amplifiers kenwood excelon, rockford punch 👊, kicker, orion amplifiers, soundstream, LA Sound, Hyphonics, Down4sound jp23 amp, soundstream Splx subwoofer, ect.... plus old school crown power bass 3, xti 4000, pioneer Elite amp, Kenwood sovereign receiver 7.2. Guess I just like the soul of some old school stuff. Is just some of the things I have
@@joeyholthusen6495 Maybe I'm blind, but I can't find many subs hitting 93db sensitivity. Even Kicker who brags about how hard they hit are only 88 with their top L7 square sub and 86 with their top of the line round sub. Same with DD Audio who brags about their massive hard hitting subs that are in the same 86 zone. JL audio... same 86 range for the top of the line.
@@marcuslinton310 my soundstream Splx subwoofer is 98 db, old school Subwoofers from ETI sound systems use to be stupidly efficient back in the 90s. Musical? No. Loud? Yes. My soundstream splx is not a SQ Subwoofer in any way. Trying to think of a few other. I'll look them up for you. Don't worry.
Not a bad idea and was really neet to watch thanx for taking your time to do it
Is that true what is the difference between the sound of a sealed and ported box and how do you know what speaker to do it with
I picked up 2 of the 10" and 12" quite awhile ago. We installed each pair in seperate vehicles with 2 local guys. They've held up very well. I ran the tsp's on both sizes, and they were off by a tad, so it's pretty accurate. Patrick Chandler (Robot Underground) did a review on the sub awhile back, and I said then
..it's a Def budget banger, and sounds as good or better than a P3, SDR, SA, W3 and more. It has solid build quality, and don't let the price swerve you away from giving it a try. A lot of subs...are "parts bin" type drivers. Only because it's been used for years, and works. Great video man. 👍
I missed his review.
no way that sounds better or even as good as a P3
@@SbassLaser you'd be more than surprised. Besides, sound quality is a subjective matter, and what may sound good to one person, may not to another. After 3 decades in audio as a whole(home, car, Soundstage/PA)I've heard great, bad and everything in between. Unfortunately, a P3 isn't that excellent of a driver. It's par, but nothing more. It isn't cutting edge technology, or much more different then it's other revisions prior to now. The last good P3 models, were made here, in the U.S years ago. Just because a driver doesn't have a quadruple inflated price tag(or more) doesn't mean it's not a good driver. This subwoofer, like most brands that start out being cost effective, will gain popularity, as well as a raise in consumer costs.
Subwoofers are not that subjective. They all sound the same in the grand scheme because 40hz is 40hz. Played within specs, they should all sound pretty much indistinguishable from each other. I would love to prove this by having a $1,000 challenge with 10 subs. Play them one at a time at 100 watts and let the "expert audiophile" guess which one is playing. The results would be no different then guessing. Get one wrong, I keep your $1,000, get them all right I pay you $1,000.
The only question, these days, seems to be the obsession with pushing way more power then RMS through them. Once this occurs, that's when the quality kicks in. It becomes about which ones can handle being severely overpowered. For some reason, if they can't handle double the RMS non stop all day, people want to call them trash. I prefer to call it what it really is, the MFR sandbagging their RMS for some oddball reason. I don't know what the purpose of that is except to fool idiots in to paying way more for their subs thinking they are better quality when in reality you're just paying the true price for a 2000 RMS sub that is labeled 1000 RMS.
@@Chuck_Sandersthe old p3s are hog the new ones are way louder and lower
You should try some of the WLLDSE subwoofers too I’ve been eying those for a while. There’s some dude running 2 of their 15s in a extended cab and they seem pretty good. Who knows they might take the throne next.
I have 2 WLLDSE 15s and they beat hard
They dont have the sound quality, but they are loud.
informative, and to the point. Glad I discovered your channel here. Appreciate what you are doing. Thanks
Thanks.
I've had one for 2 years and still sounds great
I bought a pair of 12’s 4 ohm, haven’t hooked them up yet but I have their 6.5 2 way door speakers in my truck and they sound awesome 💪
i just built a sub box and the recommended volume is .35 but after recalculating my numbers the box is .31 does that .04 difference matter much this is my first time building a box and first time messing around with subs. the subs are the VD-8 | 8" 600 Watt Max Power Car Subwoofer (Shallow Mount) from skar
Should we well within the margin of error.
Your reviews are great. You explain everything in detail, keep up the good content 💯👍
You are too kind.
SDR is easy to blow. I would point you to the EVL line.
For little more you get a lot more speaker than the sdr.
SVR would have been a more apples to apples comparison same price similar specs
and here i am with my twin MTX T5512's in their factory box and a Directed 400W amp that i've been using since 2005. Does my system sound muddy? yeah, kinda. does it owe me anything? not a penny. i've always been a fan of quality budget builds.
I have the B2 audio Rampage 12s , love em!!
I have not had a chance to try those yet.
Yes I have the 10in 2ohm and it is Awesome!
Been bumping my hyanka 12s since September last year on 3K taramps smart amp and they like it box tuned at 28Hz
Glad to hear that it has held up to the abuse!
But will Hi Yanka back up their products like Skar? Do they have good customer service?
Love my skar dual loaded ,vented 8" svr s ,they hit hard! But either the box or my pioneer amp are struggling to ride the super lowes like an old 12" cerwin Vega with an old school punch amp did?
What's the frequency response?
I have the hyanka 10 4ohm sub and LOVE IT. My package was a little beat up also
Skar underrates their subs by a large margin. Im running two VHF 12s @ 1 ohm on an Orion HCCAsplx 3k @ 14.2V, been on it for two years...with a Epicenter. They have never had a problem.
Skar has a lot of fans.
@@DIYAudioGuy thought you were an unbiased reviewer lol that explains using a 120 dollar sub to make a 80 dollar sub seem not good props to you
@DIYAudioGuy are you like brain rot?
You should give Sound Town Ares 10 or 12. I had a pair of 10's on a Trauma 2k at 1ohm. Crazy. Especially for a little over $100 ea. 3 inch coils. 1000rms.
Wow, that is a big coil.
just smoked my 2nd skar 15 gonna try this soon
Maybe you can do a video about this but is there a reason subs have different TS parameter's when the voice coil resistance changes? I've noticed that if there's a sub that's the same but offered in lets say 1 ohm or 2 ohm that some of the specs will be different such as inductance. is this something that needs to be considered when designing a box? Or does it not matter?
That's a good question, I may need to do some research and make that video.
This is because the coil itself must change to create the different DC resistance, more winds, possibly thinner wire which will mean more turns (more inductance), longer wind width (more mass), or some combination of those. There can be quite a noticeable difference in real world performance in throwing different coils in the same motor, but when you're trying to make a brand/model woofer with multiple impedance options you can generally get a dual 2 and dual 4 version to have similar enough specs that you could use them in the same box and the difference would be inaudible (less than 1dB). Whether you buy two of the subs in the video and they perform that close with the two coil options will depend on whether or not the factory made any effort to keep similar performance with the two different coil options. Either way, you can plug the specs into your favorite box modeling software and get a pretty good idea of how close different coil options on the same make/model sub will compare and they should be well within 1dB of each other all across the usable bandwidth.
The guy above is right .just model a box with the different paremeters and find out. i will say that a sub with a qts in the 4s will be a little forgiving of small changes in box design vs other subs
SKAR 12" subwoofer 1250 RMS watts, 2500 max, it started cracking as the bass hit. I had a 1500 skar amplifier on 2 ohms.
I have never had such a bad experience.
I have owned
MTX TERMINATORS
EARTHQUAKES
ROCKFORD FOSGATE
CERWIN VEGA
AUDIOPIPE
ECLIPSE
KICKER COMP R
MEMPHIS
POWER ACOUSTIC
MTX AUDIO
BLUE THUNDER
You name it I had it. This is my first Skar subwoofer
I ever owned. Not happy.
Thats a head unit/amp problem not a speaker problem sir
Ive seen more blown audiopipes then i care to explain i even blew a bdc2 on 500rms and got a skar svr no issues then got another one and had that setup for 3 years and now i just got a zvx12
What specifically ,is a good amp to go with on the dual 4ohm setup. I intend to have a dual setup. ?Also I am new so if you could simplify 😁😂
I got the skar 10 installed yesterday and it beat my expectations it's not close to being broken in yet..
Hard to say when they not in their recommend enclosure ..whats that prefab box tuned to?
I own several Skar subs and I prefer the SVR for sound quality over my SDR. I'd be willing to bet this is a better match to the SVR.
What's the difference?
The svr dont sound as good as this, have both and then some. I was surprised at how great it sounds and ashamed that i paid so much for other subs that sound worse.
Finally someone other than me calling out this handycap review
@@FJTabb 800rms, hold down ring, stitched surround, 150oz dual stack magnet, 2.6in copper coil and $120
What's up with the only 45hz and up frequency response though?
And what about the - Rockville W12K9D4 12" 4000w Peak, Dual 4-Ohm, 1000w RMS for only $119!? made in Japan
They had no problem playing below 45 hertz, I just picked the higher frequencies because they tend to get bigger numbers on the meter. I have not tried Rockville out yet.
I tried the skar 12 inch. Rockville and then the hyanka. Not even a comparison to the rockville its night and day better and my box is tuned for 37 hz. The hyanka hits deeper, louder and way better SQ. It sounds like a high end sub. And I'm pushing 1600 watts rms from a fosgate T1000 bdcp which puts out dynamic power. It bangs
@@kelvis1980 yeah not supprised I just watched a video they made 'demoing' their on wall speakers, it was embarrassing to say the least.
if you want a laugh and a reason never consider them for anything again check the video-
' DEMO of The Rockville Rock Slim '
2:40, the guy acting doesn't even try... evrything happening there is just terrible 🤣🤣
I was just back on this vid for the same reason. FR 45hz seems very high, so I'm wondering if someone will do a SQ up against anything else.
@@DIYAudioGuyon the listings they show low FR of 45hz? Is that perhaps a misprint? I'm really going back n forth on the NVX vsw 12 600rms and the lower power Yanka 12, and by reviews yanka hits harder nvx hits cleaner. I have a malibu 45deg hatchback so spl not really that necessary, but I'd love to see a battle.
The information available online shows the Skar RMS rating at 600 watts for the SDR 10, and the 10 inch H Yanka only rated at 500 watts RMS. Even for the 12 inch, I'm not seeing this higher power input rating for the H Yanka that you spoke of.
The plus side to it being a parts bin driver is that readily available parts and some upgrade parts are available everywhere for rebuild.
I think I'm going to try one of these in my truck because of this very reason.
Good point.
Is it a better buy with the increased wattage? With increased wattage usually comes more investment into other items.
Any recommendations, for a 6.5" or 7" shallow mount mid woofer? It's to replace my 2015 mazda cx-5 blose door speakers.
Thanks!😁🤘🏾
3200 max peak on the 15s i might get a couple
I just reached out to them as well, via Amazon, got a direct email to them and they sent me 2 sets or 2 pair of the 6.5" components speakers with the crossovers an tweeters etc. Compared them side by side with ds18 red tips and they blow the ds18s out of the water!!!! Running them all off an alpine 4 channel amp driving all 4 door speakers. Very very impressed with them!!!!
I have not tried their mids and highs. But this subwoofer is rock solid.
Best compact sub?
Audiopipe bdc2 is usually around 120 and they are beefy
Another Quality Video. Awesome Job
You are too kind.
Either Sundown Audio LCS or E series are better all around for same or less money.
hi..
thanks for the video .
can you recommend me a slim sub for my miata ?
looking for the mid betwin quality and budget
I might do 15s or 18s in home theater(down firing to hide sparkles and yankme branding)..
10's and 12's are nice but they need to put out a 15. Hopefully the do. Can you ask them and post update? Great video DIY as always, very informative.
That would be cool!
I have a equation of probably some law I’ve not been able to read or digest, and it deals with wiring in series for speakers. I was going to wire a 3-way component set in my front doors, using in-line crossovers for the various speaker sizes. I was putting the 6” first, with bass filter, then 3.5” or 2” mid next in series using a higher frequency bass filter, and then a tweets last in series line on high pass filter. My question pertains to balanced power for each speaker set: does each speakers power handling ability dictate how much power it takes from the feed? If I feed 200 watts, will the power be absorbed equally in distribution to speakers? Or will my first speaker in series have to be not too power hungry for trailing speakers ability to get enough power? Cheers & thanks as always
I think you are heading in the wrong direction. This is to deep of a conversation for the TH-cam comments. I suggest that you download Xsim and model your crossover.
Im
Just running a p-300 12 in a hatch 23 civic it sounds really good! For just 300 rms id like to hear this in it …??
That spider basket has been around for a long time and is a great basket
Yep
@@DIYAudioGuy same 1 on my mtx 8000 10s and am bass vfl extreme subs,I have vids of my old school collection on my channel
Audio Legion was the Budget King but it's coming to an end. The maximus 10" for $110 can't be beat. I have heard great things about the hyanka.
I have not tried audio legion, but I definitely heard of it.
@@DIYAudioGuy Everything I tried from there was an amazing value. I did a back to back of the sdr vs Armada I'm the skar prefab. The Armada sounded better for lower and was 1.5db louder.
Hell yeah bro audio legion is going out of business i bought all the 3 inch mid drivers and 6.5 components quality was crazy
I have 2 12 inch Maximus in the Skar ar2x12v box, running on 1ohm and these fckers absolutely slam!! They're better than the EVLs. I have the DS18 GFX 3k1 pushing them. Check out the review for this amp. I paid 180 for the amp, and it was dyno tested at 3700 watts rms @ 1ohm
@@PurpMan242 that ds18 has the same board as the taramps and timpano amps
What size sealed will this work in?
Can you review Deaf Bonce SA252 and the SA272 Dual 1 ohms? Would be very much appreciated. I think HYanka vs Deaf Bonce vs Skar would be an interesting comparison.
That would be fun! I wonder if I know anybody that knows anybody over at Deaf Bonce.
@@DIYAudioGuy all with the Q-Bomb Sub Enclosure for 12 inch. Since then the Q-Bomb enclosure will give a reference for performance? Would you agree?
@@DIYAudioGuy also a friend of mine is also very into car audio and is meticulous with the highest performance builds for say a single sub can offer. He says I need a 3.66 cu ft sub enclosure for the Deaf Bonce SA DB252 D1 but in Deaf Bonce manual it says 1.8 cu feet and that's what I got the Q Bomb that has 1.84 cu ft. Could you potentially take a look at their manual that they provide for each sub? I would appreciate. Friend says I can wreck the subwoofer if it's used with an improper enclosure?
@@RavensBreath diysubwoofer.blogspot.com/2021/05/custom-subwoofer-enclosure-designs.html
Awesome. What about the power acoustik gothic 12 inch sub from Walmart. I'm using one and it's pretty good honestly.
I have not tried them yet.
This vs the Rockville W12K9D2. Thoughts?
Good day to you Mr. DIY Audio Guy I have an off topic question if I may?
When designing a subwoofer enclosure ,can it be too deep? although the recommended Net air space is maintained? would this have any negative effect on the given subwoofer[s] ?
I ask because I was told that the subwoofer[s] would act as if it were in free air and thus unload being that it has no rear baffle to load off of.
Air volume is air volume. The shape of the box does not impact performance in that way.
@@DIYAudioGuy Thank you for your response ,much appreciated .
Would love to see how this compares to the Gravity Warzone 12. The H Yanka shows currently unavailable so I wasn't able to compare price.
Gravity seems to be trash
Skar SVR would be a more fair comparison has the spider ring, larger magnet, stitched surround, and 800 watts rms for 120
Awesome review! In the famous words of Will Smith in the movie Ali “The Champ is Here!”
Thanks!
So you compared this speaker to the Skar using a different enclosure and an amp that puts out 4 times the power of the amp used with the Skar? Hmmm..
What about wlldse subs? I just picked up 2 hcy-15s. Only have one in right now and it slams. It has no specs. Can you help? Would help with future box design.
How's this sub holding up? can you make a review video ?
I No longer have these subwoofers on hand. So I can't quite do that test.
But if you hit the subscribe button and ring the bell I have some similar subwoofers sitting in the garage, I'm working on the script for that video.
Is more power handling better?
Holding everything else constant, yes.
DS18 has a similar looking Gen X line of subs that is their budget line
Is this one better than audiopipe bdc2 in 12s?
I've never tried the audiopipe so I can't say for sure.
I live in the south east and want to got to a car show specifically for big audio systems, does anyone have any suggestions for the biggest shows to attend? thanks
The Southeast is a big place. If you were over on the Atlantic coast, I would recommend checking out the sundown audio show.
@@DIYAudioGuy sorry, yeah I'm in TN but don't mind to drive to a big event
@@Dabblefarm if you are in east TN then there are tons of shows. XS power just had one in Knoxville.
Off topic, on your recent amp rack rebuild I noticed you bought a lithium battery, did you upgrade your alternator too, or just the battery? And, if just battery, how's it working for you? Thanx as always
Only been hooked up for about a week at this point, but the battery seems to be holding up just fine. As far as the alternator: th-cam.com/video/MuksKiWpit0/w-d-xo.html
Due to funds and retiring soon, I’m stuck with keeping the 6 SDR 10’s I have in my truck. If one goes, I’ll have to replace it. Can’t afford to get 6 new ones. But the 6 Skar SDR’s have been working good so far. Take all the abuse I give them. Lol
I bet that is loud AF! Awesome.
@@DIYAudioGuy it’s ok. I only have 1100 watts goin to each one. I’d like more power, lol.
I saw a NVX subwoofer there what do you think of them? I owned couple of their 15's back in the day the 750 to 1000 watt rms v1 models and thought they were really good but are they best in class for $209 bucks a pop? I have a Skar setuo their box with x2 SDR 600 watt rms subs they sound great but my car is insulated so well hard to get sound to the front so was thinking x2 12" NVX subs and buying another Skar RP 1200.1d amp subs will be 2 ohm dvs of course so both amps will be at 1ohm.
I have been waiting to test it until I get the JP 23 hooked up. I even built a box for it. Hope to get that video up in April.
The best budget 12in sub is the dtx e series hybrid 12 or 15in from directronik
👍 I will have to give them a look.
Well just got off Amazon looking for these. Only 10s are available. Something seems a little fishy to me. The d2 is 79.?? and 1200 peak and the d4 is 89.?? with 1000 peak. And yes the rms numbers also vary. Since when does ohm load change price and power handling. Any assistance would be appreciated
Just an amazon seller that does not know how to market the product.
What are the TS parameters for this sub?
Is 18 square inches of port per cubic foot too much for an 18 inch sub?
I don't know where this whole inches per cubic foot thing comes from. I've been trying to track down the original source for that rule of thumb and I just keep going in circles.
The right thing to do is to model it in something like WINisd and make the port opening big enough so that you don't get chuffing
@@DIYAudioGuy yea was just wondering if you could have too much port area per cubic foot. Thanks
@@brick2077 as the port area gets bigger the port has to be longer. That is usually the limit.
Is there a video where you explain wiring in 2 ohm vs 4 ohm? I tried searching couldn't find it
th-cam.com/video/_Jl-d_VvJSs/w-d-xo.html
you might want to look at CT sounds and compare to Skar.
I think you are right!
What mic did you say you were using.
Any opinions on the WLLDSE subwoofers?
Happy Fun-day Sunday!
I saw those when I was browsing Amazon the other day, might have to give them a look.
@DIY Audio Guy of the two tiers, last I looked, no-one has looked at the high performance series.
Either way, I'm picking either of these two brands.
Have a great week sir!
What would you recommend for a budget Amp to push one of these Hi-Yanka's
This one: th-cam.com/video/5puEET5Bpjk/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy thank you so much. I stumbled upon your channel by pure accident but have sat and watched so many of your videos. Your channel is amazing!
Is this Rockville re branded???? 🤔🤔🤔🤔
May as well be! Both are parts bin subs.
i got my skar 8 inch sub for about 7 years .
I'm a kicker fan ! Hands down 💪💪💪
Are any of the Skars appropriate for sealed? They seem to always be ported.
They should work just fine.
What meter is that you used to measure the ohms on the speaker? Love your videos!!!!
I use this: amzn.to/3lqKQaW but almost any digital multimeter can measure ohms.
have not been able to find it, but what is the mounting depth of the Hiyanka 10"?
I just so happen to have the owners manual sitting on my desk. Looks like 131mm, but the font is tiny so I could be wrong.
Hello 🙂
I am from Denmark and i have a Volkswagen up and i want to build a audio system but I don't exactly what fits me
Can you please recommend Wich subwoofer, amplifier, speakers i should buy
Thank you so much for all wonderful videos ❤
If you were in the US I would send you to Crutchfield. Beyond that I don't have any good way of knowing what will fit.
Hey get you (2) B2 Audio Rampage 12s, Ground Zero 6x9s, Ground Zero 1 inch dome tweeters, SounDigital amps; very good wiring, have your 12s in a ported box tuned; You can’t go wrong!!
That cone is the exact same as the Massive Audio Summo and up models
cool
What's the deal with that DMM? Never seen one like that before.
Meter and scope: th-cam.com/video/oBNETr9AHwA/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy Thanks!
The foam not being as wide as skars will lean into it having a cleaner sound. This subwoofer is most likely not going to stick around with that brand as they need to find an american name brand. I would also put money on that it is coming from JLD or another company like them that offers tons of off the shelf woofers for companies with their logos. A few companies have changed builders and this could be their way of getting rid of alot of old parts by shifting them under an off name.
Hey car audio guy quick question when you parallel wired the sub what ohms did you get?
I did not check that.
@@DIYAudioGuy should it be 1 ohm or should it stay around 2 ohms?
@sandromoreno4060 if you wire a dvc 2 ohm sub in parallel it will be 1 ohm, wired in series it would be 4 ohms.