Great job. Very comprehensive tutorial. Thanks! I’m considering replacement or sandblasting of a rusty subframe. Wishbones bolts are seized and geometry can’t be done too. Do you think the job is possible having car on axle stands ? I’m concerned about lifting down the subframe with all attachments.
Thank you! Appreciated! Yes it can be done on jack stands, the whole assembly as shown in my video isn’t really that heavy, more bulky than anything. I would also put a stand in the front center of the car for more stability and safety.
Great, thnx for showing the process, very explanatory and straight forward! I am considering to drop subframe to replace bushings, than sandblast and paint it. One question, why to discconect brake lines instead of removing calipers and secure it to chasis so you avoid having to deal with bleeding brakes... not that it is a big deal but if flexibles are in good shape i just thinking it would be easier to remove brake calipers from subbframe....especially if car is in "rust belt" area where touching any brake connection end up with need to flare new brake pipe😢...
Thank you! And good question, I can’t remember why I did it that way but if you want to do it your way that is perfectly fine. Good luck and let me know how you make out!
@@motorcarnut I bought the Haldex from a parts yard and that one bolt came seized in it I tried un screwing it and it’s just spinning in the Haldex arm
Hey friend its me again! Just reporting back. The new cylinder head on the Tiguan you helped me installed is running PERFECT. I drove it 100 miles today and zero hiccups or engine DTCs. Thank you! Now I'm looking to service the 4Motion. As I was looking at the haldex under the vehicle. I noticed a lot of rust on certain areas. What would be a good way to determine the severity of rust on services to consider a vehicle unsafe to operate? Also, what are the weaknesses from your experience with this haldex systems?
That's great! I was wondering how you made out. The haldex system is pretty reliable. Fluid changes are always a good idea and never tow the vehicle on a tow dolly! Will destroy it. The rust can be a real safety issue along with trying to service rusty parts. The Haldex is mounted to the vehicle by way of 4 bolts, 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom there are rubber mounts that are weak points and if badly corroded because its made of aluminum it can crack.
@@motorcarnut I’m asking about the rust due to me visually checking the haldex and noticing a couple things. The haldex pump is so rusty and I’m not sure if I’ll be able to get the bolts off to pull the pump out! The pump looks like a Cheeto. Red and crusty. I’m still going to do the haldex flush, the vehicle has 123k and I’m sure it has never seen service. On an irrelevant question, I have also noticed water inside the driver door by the foot rest. I know these vehicles have a draining system by the sunroof. Any suggestions on how to go about diagnosing where the water is coming in?
Really interesting, my 2011 tiguan has just been towed on rear wheels for 50+miles at speeds of 55mph, now have damaged haldex ecu controller and the diff feels like its welded together as the wheels are shipping and jumping on a corner
The oil pump is turned by the engine and when engine is off no oil circulates and the haldex clutch burn up. I have a video on how to replace it on a Tiguan if it comes to that.
@@motorcarnut I get it I wasn't trying to tell you that you are doing it wrong or anything. You work on a lot of Volkswagens? if you do keep posting videos I love to learn how other techs like yourself do things it always helps me out at work and it's entertaining.
@@kieronearnshaw9521 no in the hatch there are two little dimples you really have to look for them and they are put on their purposely so you can drill two holes big enough to fit a triple square socket to loosen the bolts. That's the actual factory procedure so then all you have to do is disconnect the drive shaft axles drop the exhaust. The only time I drop the rear end is if the car is really old and the bolts are badly rusted and I can't get the bolts out then you have no choice but to do it the way you did it. that's why I said that the way you were doing it wasn't wrong and it helps to have two people if you do it without dropping the rear end to slide the haldex out from in between the rear end and frame of the car, or you can use a transmission jack it's just a little harder and then Volkswagen has tape to cover the holes it's basically black duct tape lol. I'm actually replacing one now and I had a one bolt break on me the car has 185k miles so I moved on to another job for now I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet not happy only getting paid four and a half hours for the job 😞
Great job. Very comprehensive tutorial. Thanks!
I’m considering replacement or sandblasting of a rusty subframe. Wishbones bolts are seized and geometry can’t be done too. Do you think the job is possible having car on axle stands ? I’m concerned about lifting down the subframe with all attachments.
Thank you! Appreciated! Yes it can be done on jack stands, the whole assembly as shown in my video isn’t really that heavy, more bulky than anything. I would also put a stand in the front center of the car for more stability and safety.
@@motorcarnutThanks. That made me more confident!
No problem, good luck!
I am starting mine next week - my '09 Tiguan subframe is rusted so badly I had to get a good second-hand one.
I'm doing mine on axle stands
Great, thnx for showing the process, very explanatory and straight forward! I am considering to drop subframe to replace bushings, than sandblast and paint it.
One question, why to discconect brake lines instead of removing calipers and secure it to chasis so you avoid having to deal with bleeding brakes... not that it is a big deal but if flexibles are in good shape i just thinking it would be easier to remove brake calipers from subbframe....especially if car is in "rust belt" area where touching any brake connection end up with need to flare new brake pipe😢...
Thank you! And good question, I can’t remember why I did it that way but if you want to do it your way that is perfectly fine. Good luck and let me know how you make out!
Great video on my different the rear bolts u screwed but they won’t come out the diff… there just spinning in place any suggestions???
Those bolts can be rotted, rusted etc. if they are loose just lower the whole sub assembly when unbolting it.
@@motorcarnut I bought the Haldex from a parts yard and that one bolt came seized in it I tried un screwing it and it’s just spinning in the Haldex arm
Can it be screw into the vehicle without removing it, is what I’m saying?
@@motorcarnut yes it can but I’m rebuilding it for a project I’m doing and I have new screws etc
Hey friend its me again! Just reporting back. The new cylinder head on the Tiguan you helped me installed is running PERFECT. I drove it 100 miles today and zero hiccups or engine DTCs. Thank you!
Now I'm looking to service the 4Motion. As I was looking at the haldex under the vehicle. I noticed a lot of rust on certain areas. What would be a good way to determine the severity of rust on services to consider a vehicle unsafe to operate? Also, what are the weaknesses from your experience with this haldex systems?
That's great! I was wondering how you made out. The haldex system is pretty reliable. Fluid changes are always a good idea and never tow the vehicle on a tow dolly! Will destroy it. The rust can be a real safety issue along with trying to service rusty parts. The Haldex is mounted to the vehicle by way of 4 bolts, 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom there are rubber mounts that are weak points and if badly corroded because its made of aluminum it can crack.
@@motorcarnut I’m asking about the rust due to me visually checking the haldex and noticing a couple things. The haldex pump is so rusty and I’m not sure if I’ll be able to get the bolts off to pull the pump out! The pump looks like a Cheeto. Red and crusty. I’m still going to do the haldex flush, the vehicle has 123k and I’m sure it has never seen service.
On an irrelevant question, I have also noticed water inside the driver door by the foot rest. I know these vehicles have a draining system by the sunroof. Any suggestions on how to go about diagnosing where the water is coming in?
Really interesting, my 2011 tiguan has just been towed on rear wheels for 50+miles at speeds of 55mph, now have damaged haldex ecu controller and the diff feels like its welded together as the wheels are shipping and jumping on a corner
Can you explain more how towing damages them, did you strip the damaged one to see what had happened?
Yes, it’s destroyed, tow guy should have known never to tow a awd vehicle like that.
The oil pump is turned by the engine and when engine is off no oil circulates and the haldex clutch burn up. I have a video on how to replace it on a Tiguan if it comes to that.
My bad, this is the video, I have another one on why not to tow a awd vehicle, but not good for you now
@Motorcarnut ok thanks, will try and get this changed out
Can someone tell me the Manufacturer Part Number of the Differential ?
Go to the factory VW website, look up your year and model and you will see the part number there
You don't have to drop the entire rear end to replace that differential
I do all the time, it’s easier for me.
@@motorcarnut I get it I wasn't trying to tell you that you are doing it wrong or anything. You work on a lot of Volkswagens? if you do keep posting videos I love to learn how other techs like yourself do things it always helps me out at work and it's entertaining.
@diameadozen No, I know, it’s all good. I work on everything lol, and post as often as possible. Thanks for you comment! Appreciated
@@diameadozen do you just lower it enough to get at the rear bolts ?
@@kieronearnshaw9521 no in the hatch there are two little dimples you really have to look for them and they are put on their purposely so you can drill two holes big enough to fit a triple square socket to loosen the bolts. That's the actual factory procedure so then all you have to do is disconnect the drive shaft axles drop the exhaust. The only time I drop the rear end is if the car is really old and the bolts are badly rusted and I can't get the bolts out then you have no choice but to do it the way you did it. that's why I said that the way you were doing it wasn't wrong and it helps to have two people if you do it without dropping the rear end to slide the haldex out from in between the rear end and frame of the car, or you can use a transmission jack it's just a little harder and then Volkswagen has tape to cover the holes it's basically black duct tape lol. I'm actually replacing one now and I had a one bolt break on me the car has 185k miles so I moved on to another job for now I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet not happy only getting paid four and a half hours for the job 😞