Totally agree with you that having the perfect combination for the car's primary use is so critical. In the past, all I chased was maximum power and the sound of a Bridgeport💥. But after a while, since the car is mostly used for street driving and occasional mountain runs, the sound became obnoxious quickly. Since changing the setup to a milder street port, I've lost the excitement of the 'brap brap' idle, but I have grown to love the car more each day by being able to drive it comfortably and enjoy it🐱
22:28 Ik this is an older video, but all the free info and knowledge you've given out may not receive any immediate kickback, but It is absolutely appreciated by myself and I'm sure many more out there and ultimately helps earn you more loyal customers as a result of your hard work combined with the passion and care you show.
I've been running a tired old REW that was rebuilt with used older housings, remachined rotors because the apex seal grooves were out of spec, with 3mm stock steel seals and said rebuilt motor has just under 50,000 miles put on it over the last 8 years or so. It makes 385 whp at 1 bar of boost on a garret GT35R, and a touch over 400 at 17 psi which is my max tune that I hardly make use of. It's getting tired now, but when I put a brand new fresh engine in I'm probably going to do the same thing because this junker has served me admirably for quite a long time. RX7club would probably crucify me for posting the intention of putting 3mm seals in a fresh engine, but you know what, I'm sold on the setup. I know they're heavier, don't seal as well, all that, but all these stories of aftermarket seals warping and bending and all this bullshit, I just don't want to deal with it. The instagramification of this car has spoiled the build dynamic most people are being introduced to. I might go bridge but I haven't decided yet, because it's not like the car needs more power as is. I just like the idle brap but I'm satisfied with 400 hp.
This was very informative. I plan to put this knowledge to use when I finally build my turbo II. Question for you. What are your thoughts when it comes to Naturally Aspirated power? This would be in a first Gen with a 4.88 rear end. It would primarily be used for mountain runs, track days, autocross, and enjoying the curvy backroads. My thought was a very well done Bridge Port but I am curious to know your opinion.
Great video. Just kinda stumbled on it. Do you have a similar video for NA? I have a 5 letter 13b but NA and carby. Will be needing a rebuild at some point and I'd like to push a little bit mode outa the engine for my little FB. Still thinking street port or small bridge for a canyoning set up.
You mentioned "some guys take a 110psi engine, rebuild, and it's down to 90psi." What are they doing wrong to cause the compression loss? That is a mistake I need to avoid repeating.
Does something like porting or a particular HP goal say 400hp automatically = dowelling or studding. Because i've heard the engines tend to open up at around the 14psi mark
Doweling and Studding isn't needed until past the 600whp mark. There are quite a few of my tuned engines out there over 600whp with ARP or similar 10mm OEM-replacement studs and proper building by Legend Motorsports or Maple Racing. It comes down to the engine builder and tuner working in unison. Particular porting for 400whp would be no more than a half bridge at that power level. Normally I'd have most cars land around 425-450whp on Pump Gas depending on porting and turbo selection, then up from there. Those are safe, reliable numbers.
Crazy to me and older rotary dude to listen to a modern rotary guys talk about 300-400hp like nothing lol...back in the late 80s and 90s we were chasing close to 250hp to the rear wheel and we were more than happy to get anything near that, i understand were were a bit primitive with downdraft or side draft carbs lol but fascinating how the technology and methods have evolved.
@@seblo8462 I've tried to elevate all my pump gas cars to ~400whp and everything E85 is minimum 550whp and upwards to 700whp. Truly an amazing time to own a Rotary.
@RGHTBrainDesignDrive thinking of redoing my 85 GSL-SE one last time and going efi, been hearing lots of good stuff about the Holley Sniper system, do you have any experience with setup?
Hey man. Is there any chance you'd share the names of those top tier builders you mentioned? The old school flow guy and the CFD guy. It's hard enough to find someone legit!
Totally agree with you that having the perfect combination for the car's primary use is so critical.
In the past, all I chased was maximum power and the sound of a Bridgeport💥.
But after a while, since the car is mostly used for street driving and occasional mountain runs, the sound became obnoxious quickly.
Since changing the setup to a milder street port, I've lost the excitement of the 'brap brap' idle, but I have grown to love the car more each day by being able to drive it comfortably and enjoy it🐱
"So downshift and enjoy" sums it up pretty well!😂
Glad I watched this video through to the end. Lots of good information.
22:28 Ik this is an older video, but all the free info and knowledge you've given out may not receive any immediate kickback, but It is absolutely appreciated by myself and I'm sure many more out there and ultimately helps earn you more loyal customers as a result of your hard work combined with the passion and care you show.
I've been running a tired old REW that was rebuilt with used older housings, remachined rotors because the apex seal grooves were out of spec, with 3mm stock steel seals and said rebuilt motor has just under 50,000 miles put on it over the last 8 years or so. It makes 385 whp at 1 bar of boost on a garret GT35R, and a touch over 400 at 17 psi which is my max tune that I hardly make use of. It's getting tired now, but when I put a brand new fresh engine in I'm probably going to do the same thing because this junker has served me admirably for quite a long time. RX7club would probably crucify me for posting the intention of putting 3mm seals in a fresh engine, but you know what, I'm sold on the setup. I know they're heavier, don't seal as well, all that, but all these stories of aftermarket seals warping and bending and all this bullshit, I just don't want to deal with it. The instagramification of this car has spoiled the build dynamic most people are being introduced to. I might go bridge but I haven't decided yet, because it's not like the car needs more power as is. I just like the idle brap but I'm satisfied with 400 hp.
Awesome. Thanks a bunch.
Do your thing bro, I enjoy getting ideas and Information from different perspectives.
Great advice Ryan. Very informative! Looking forward to seeing more content and working with you on my FD.
Bridgeport in New Zealand is the minimum port we do no matter what the set up 😂
@@benvlassoff6378 Bridgeport = Best Port.
This was very informative. I plan to put this knowledge to use when I finally build my turbo II. Question for you. What are your thoughts when it comes to Naturally Aspirated power? This would be in a first Gen with a 4.88 rear end. It would primarily be used for mountain runs, track days, autocross, and enjoying the curvy backroads. My thought was a very well done Bridge Port but I am curious to know your opinion.
Do Bridgeports tend to make more power under the curve when compared to a small semi pp?
Yep.
What do you think of a Bridgeport and semi pp combination?
Would it be possible to maintain PS and AC (s4 turbo2) with using the Hall sensor and trigger wheel setup you mentioned? (3:15)
Yes. That's the whole point.
Great video. Just kinda stumbled on it. Do you have a similar video for NA? I have a 5 letter 13b but NA and carby. Will be needing a rebuild at some point and I'd like to push a little bit mode outa the engine for my little FB. Still thinking street port or small bridge for a canyoning set up.
@@ajsummerhayes4639 Reach out to Legend Motorsports and he can take care of you for that.
@RGHTBrainDesignDrive awesome thanks. Would you know of a Canadian option? If not that's cool. Just shipping might be insane.
@ajsummerhayes4639 he's in Michigan, so it's right across the border. REC is another Canadian option, as well as Grant in Vancouver area.
You mentioned "some guys take a 110psi engine, rebuild, and it's down to 90psi." What are they doing wrong to cause the compression loss? That is a mistake I need to avoid repeating.
Does something like porting or a particular HP goal say 400hp automatically = dowelling or studding. Because i've heard the engines tend to open up at around the 14psi mark
Doweling and Studding isn't needed until past the 600whp mark. There are quite a few of my tuned engines out there over 600whp with ARP or similar 10mm OEM-replacement studs and proper building by Legend Motorsports or Maple Racing. It comes down to the engine builder and tuner working in unison.
Particular porting for 400whp would be no more than a half bridge at that power level. Normally I'd have most cars land around 425-450whp on Pump Gas depending on porting and turbo selection, then up from there. Those are safe, reliable numbers.
Crazy to me and older rotary dude to listen to a modern rotary guys talk about 300-400hp like nothing lol...back in the late 80s and 90s we were chasing close to 250hp to the rear wheel and we were more than happy to get anything near that, i understand were were a bit primitive with downdraft or side draft carbs lol but fascinating how the technology and methods have evolved.
@@seblo8462 I've tried to elevate all my pump gas cars to ~400whp and everything E85 is minimum 550whp and upwards to 700whp. Truly an amazing time to own a Rotary.
@RGHTBrainDesignDrive thinking of redoing my 85 GSL-SE one last time and going efi, been hearing lots of good stuff about the Holley Sniper system, do you have any experience with setup?
Hey man. Is there any chance you'd share the names of those top tier builders you mentioned? The old school flow guy and the CFD guy. It's hard enough to find someone legit!
Legend Motorsports handles all of my builds.
❤