Hi Barrie, I too should read instructions, I,ve been trying to set up the carb on the Fergy for days now, it should have been running on TVO and not petrol !!! Looking forward to part 2 and you telling Debs you've been using her bath towel!!
Hi Ken, if your anything like me, my learning style is activist, so the very last thing I do after I've repaired it twice ordered three sets of parts just incase, is read a book, I realy need to learn but at 65 it might to be late, as always, good to hear from you Ken and I'm glad to see you getting those jobs done with your tractor. many thanks Barry
Another very good instructional video Barry. I noticed the great looking freshly painted dashboard in the background. When you mentioned using body filler to hide the spot weld marks it triggered a memory of the same problem we had when designing the bonnet for the 90/94 series Tractors where we ended up using a metal adhesive to glue the stiffeners to the bonnet skin and just spot welded on the bottom lip where it didn't show, this is quite common now in the motor industry but DBT where one of the first mass manufacturers to use adhesives for bonding sheet metal. I think it was an air drying Loctite product that fully cured in the stoving ovens of the paint plant and that we had to pierce holes in the stiffeners to allow the adhesive to mushroom through to improve the grip - modern adhesives are so much better!
thanks Terry, great insights to the production methods of DB, This is when we had a world beating manufacturing base, As you say DBT were world leaders in their approach to solving manufacturing problems. many thanks Barry
Hi Terry yes that's the painted dash hanging up to dry, finally got some paint splashed on it, Your the first to notice, I thought Marshall might have seen it cos he has eagle eyes and misses nothing.
Debs is gonna get you for using her good towels! Great video as always! I think the other 990 on the farm has a 3 way, and this will be really handy when I get around to doing that!
G day Barry, I was watching you strip the 3 way valve and I'm buggered if I can ever remember doing that job. I suppose I must have but I'm no help on this one. Is that dash all finished in the background?
G D Lance the dash has got paint on it now, just giving it a week or two to harden, with this amazing UK weather we're having it'll probs take a couple of month. Next thing is to start with the electricals, so we can get it to start from the key and charge up as it's running. cheers Lance Barry
I spotted the nicely painted dash looks great. I love the way you on purpose do things wrong the first time then do it properly the second very good way of teaching ☺️ lol. It will be job well worthy off doing correctly just one question what year is your tractor? My 880 is 1967 and got the 3 knobs as apposed to the lever so is mine the early version or later? Cant wait for part 2.
Hi Jon, yes , I got some paint splashed on it at last, I think the tractor is a 69, has yours got the double acting hydraulic valve on it, couldn't remember but was it you saying you had a rubber gasket for the hydrauylic filter housing? Ah! yes my teaching methods, I'm an activist learner, means we take things to bits put them back together, then read the instructions, then take them to bit again and fix it properly, as opposed to a theorist who reads the book fixes it first time. however you learn more when things go wrong and it's more exciting to do it twice. in a previous life I had to force myself to be a theorist and when I left that world became myself again. it's so much more fun. cheers Jon as always good to hear from you. Barry
No I haven't got the double acting hydraulic valve. Yes I said I got a rubber gasket for the belly pan but it to me seemed to thick so it's not used as a template. Love your teaching methods explanation 👏 👍 lol brilliant
Hi Beiste, this is fromthe case IH website parts manual www.mycnhstore.com you can download the diagrams,order parts, get part numbers, I found this as a result of Shane's (path of discovery) he's channel has amazing video's, go and watch and subscribe. Shanes video th-cam.com/video/5nYhhXXpGFw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=10KDYv396VIrY1eC now a list of Orings item 2 K625408 'O' RING, 7/16 in internal dia.replaces K24779 2off item 11 K16351 O-RING 3.53mm Thk x 24.99mm ID 'O' RING, 1 in internal dia. 1off item15 K623589 O-RING 'O' RING, 5/8 in internal dia. 2off item16 K24556 O-RING 0.734'' ID x 1.012'' OD x 0.139'' 'O' RING, 3/4 in internal dia. 2off item 19 K24852 O-RING 0.103'' Thk x 0.674'' ID, -115, Cl 6, 90 Duro 'O' RING, 11/16 in internal dia. (885, 990, 995, 996) 1off while these can be bought individually there is probably a kit out there, make sure it's from a reputable supplier as my experiences of third party kits is there is always something that doesn't fit and you have to go looking for the right things, which for the threeway isn't that bad but if it's an internal part and you end up taking the tractor to pieces again because of a badly supplied/fitting part I suppose the moral of the stoery is check everything before you install. hope this helps Barry
Thanks for putting up your videos, has helped out a few times. I also have a leaking valve on my 990 and will be removing soon. Is it possible to send me the info sheets from your video. I cant find them online or in my workshop manual. Thanks
Hi Peter, many thanks for the comments I'm pleased you find the video's usefull, drive.google.com/file/d/1btmOrHfXx6Yz5iL5JT0KKHmzjawBQiYa/view?usp=drive_link the info sheet is in this manual page 56. many thanks Barry
Hi Marshall, I think they all leak eventually, And I think people get a bit worried about taking them to pieces because they're part of the hydraulics but as you can see there's not a lot to them. this will get a god bath and re-assembled, fingers crossed no leaks. cheers Marshall Barry
Hi Barry, I am currently trying to get a DB 990 up and running again. I am therefore following your videos with great interest. Unfortunately, I now have a problem with which I simply don't know what to do. Unfortunately, I have the problem that the hydraulics start to lift on their own as soon as I step on the gas. I have removed the hydraulics, cleaned all the valves and tried to calibrate them as you do in your video #46. But at minute 8:00 I can't get the measurement that you set. If I see the video, the setting would be 0.1045mm, right? If this is correct, do you have any idea why the hydraulics lift on their own? Thank you very much in advance.
Hi T the 0.1045" is imperial not metric, the number is etched into the end of the hydraulic spool by the manufacturer, this is the minimum amount of travel you can set the spool at, you are to try and get the exact measurement but +0.001" or 0.002" is acceptable, have a look through my play list for hydraulics, there's a video explaining how the hydraulics work, and that the spool valve simply allows pressure from behind the valve inserts to drop, allowing the valve to open which inturn lifts the arms, I would think you spool is incorrectly set and not allowing the pressure to equalise which is required to allow the valve inserts to close and stop the lift. hope this helps Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Hi Barry, ok, that sounds plausible. Then I'll remove the whole thing again tomorrow and try to re-calibrate. Many thanks for your help and keep up the good work. I really like your videos.
@@manfromthemist1958 Hi Barry, I've just watched the video where you put the whole thing back together. If I understand correctly, the coil valve must have a maximum stroke of 0.103’. When I calibrated it, the maximum setting was 0.359’. Could it be that I need to replace the spring? Just a thought for now...
Hi, the amount of travel for the spool valve will be eteched onto the base of the spool, this is determind at manufacture, and this is the amount of travel that should be set, if your spool is set to 0.395" then it's probably in an open postion, if it's moving that far then your spring could be broken. off the top of my head I think the range for all spools is between 0.100" and 0.104" so you defo need to reduce the travel. check out video 46 for setting the travel many thanks Barry
Hi Barrie, I too should read instructions, I,ve been trying to set up the carb on the Fergy for days now, it should have been running on TVO and not petrol !!! Looking forward to part 2 and you telling Debs you've been using her bath towel!!
Hi Ken, if your anything like me, my learning style is activist, so the very last thing I do after I've repaired it twice ordered three sets of parts just incase, is read a book,
I realy need to learn but at 65 it might to be late,
as always, good to hear from you Ken and I'm glad to see you getting those jobs done with your tractor.
many thanks
Barry
Another very good instructional video Barry. I noticed the great looking freshly painted dashboard in the background. When you mentioned using body filler to hide the spot weld marks it triggered a memory of the same problem we had when designing the bonnet for the 90/94 series Tractors where we ended up using a metal adhesive to glue the stiffeners to the bonnet skin and just spot welded on the bottom lip where it didn't show, this is quite common now in the motor industry but DBT where one of the first mass manufacturers to use adhesives for bonding sheet metal. I think it was an air drying Loctite product that fully cured in the stoving ovens of the paint plant and that we had to pierce holes in the stiffeners to allow the adhesive to mushroom through to improve the grip - modern adhesives are so much better!
thanks Terry, great insights to the production methods of DB, This is when we had a world beating manufacturing base,
As you say DBT were world leaders in their approach to solving manufacturing problems.
many thanks
Barry
Hi Terry yes that's the painted dash hanging up to dry, finally got some paint splashed on it, Your the first to notice, I thought Marshall might have seen it cos he has eagle eyes and misses nothing.
It looks like a great paint job Barry, there are a couple of good TH-cam videos on D3Sshooter that may help when you start the wiring
Debs is gonna get you for using her good towels! Great video as always! I think the other 990 on the farm has a 3 way, and this will be really handy when I get around to doing that!
Hi Shane, I always give them a wash in fairy before putting them back in the cupboard, she'll never know!
many thanks
Barry
Look forward to seeing the completion of the 3 way valve update!
Many thanks Charles, as soon as the O rings are delivered we'll get it back on the tractor and tested
many thanks
Barry
G day Barry, I was watching you strip the 3 way valve and I'm buggered if I can ever remember doing that job. I suppose I must have but I'm no help on this one. Is that dash all finished in the background?
G D Lance the dash has got paint on it now, just giving it a week or two to harden, with this amazing UK weather we're having it'll probs take a couple of month.
Next thing is to start with the electricals, so we can get it to start from the key and charge up as it's running.
cheers Lance
Barry
I spotted the nicely painted dash looks great. I love the way you on purpose do things wrong the first time then do it properly the second very good way of teaching ☺️ lol. It will be job well worthy off doing correctly just one question what year is your tractor? My 880 is 1967 and got the 3 knobs as apposed to the lever so is mine the early version or later? Cant wait for part 2.
Hi Jon, yes , I got some paint splashed on it at last, I think the tractor is a 69, has yours got the double acting hydraulic valve on it,
couldn't remember but was it you saying you had a rubber gasket for the hydrauylic filter housing?
Ah! yes my teaching methods, I'm an activist learner, means we take things to bits put them back together, then read the instructions, then take them to bit again and fix it properly, as opposed to a theorist who reads the book fixes it first time.
however you learn more when things go wrong and it's more exciting to do it twice.
in a previous life I had to force myself to be a theorist and when I left that world became myself again. it's so much more fun.
cheers Jon as always good to hear from you.
Barry
No I haven't got the double acting hydraulic valve. Yes I said I got a rubber gasket for the belly pan but it to me seemed to thick so it's not used as a template. Love your teaching methods explanation 👏 👍 lol brilliant
hey Barry great video as always, do you have a list of the o-rings for the 3way?
Hi Beiste, this is fromthe case IH website parts manual
www.mycnhstore.com you can download the diagrams,order parts, get part numbers, I found this as a result of Shane's (path of discovery) he's channel has amazing video's, go and watch and subscribe.
Shanes video th-cam.com/video/5nYhhXXpGFw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=10KDYv396VIrY1eC
now a list of Orings
item 2 K625408 'O' RING, 7/16 in internal dia.replaces K24779 2off
item 11 K16351 O-RING 3.53mm Thk x 24.99mm ID 'O' RING, 1 in internal dia. 1off
item15 K623589 O-RING 'O' RING, 5/8 in internal dia. 2off
item16 K24556 O-RING 0.734'' ID x 1.012'' OD x 0.139'' 'O' RING, 3/4 in internal dia. 2off
item 19 K24852 O-RING 0.103'' Thk x 0.674'' ID, -115, Cl 6, 90 Duro 'O' RING, 11/16 in internal dia. (885, 990, 995, 996) 1off
while these can be bought individually there is probably a kit out there, make sure it's from a reputable supplier as my experiences of third party kits is there is always something that doesn't fit and you have to go looking for the right things, which for the threeway isn't that bad but if it's an internal part and you end up taking the tractor to pieces again because of a badly supplied/fitting part
I suppose the moral of the stoery is check everything before you install.
hope this helps
Barry
Thanks for putting up your videos, has helped out a few times. I also have a leaking valve on my 990 and will be removing soon. Is it possible to send me the info sheets from your video. I cant find them online or in my workshop manual. Thanks
Hi Peter, many thanks for the comments I'm pleased you find the video's usefull,
drive.google.com/file/d/1btmOrHfXx6Yz5iL5JT0KKHmzjawBQiYa/view?usp=drive_link
the info sheet is in this manual page 56.
many thanks
Barry
The one I have leaked also but I fixed it by fitting a spool valve 😀M
Hi Marshall, I think they all leak eventually, And I think people get a bit worried about taking them to pieces because they're part of the hydraulics but as you can see there's not a lot to them.
this will get a god bath and re-assembled, fingers crossed no leaks.
cheers Marshall
Barry
Hi Barry, I am currently trying to get a DB 990 up and running again. I am therefore following your videos with great interest. Unfortunately, I now have a problem with which I simply don't know what to do. Unfortunately, I have the problem that the hydraulics start to lift on their own as soon as I step on the gas. I have removed the hydraulics, cleaned all the valves and tried to calibrate them as you do in your video #46. But at minute 8:00 I can't get the measurement that you set. If I see the video, the setting would be 0.1045mm, right? If this is correct, do you have any idea why the hydraulics lift on their own?
Thank you very much in advance.
Hi T the 0.1045" is imperial not metric, the number is etched into the end of the hydraulic spool by the manufacturer, this is the minimum amount of travel you can set the spool at, you are to try and get the exact measurement but +0.001" or 0.002" is acceptable, have a look through my play list for hydraulics, there's a video explaining how the hydraulics work, and that the spool valve simply allows pressure from behind the valve inserts to drop, allowing the valve to open which inturn lifts the arms, I would think you spool is incorrectly set and not allowing the pressure to equalise which is required to allow the valve inserts to close and stop the lift.
hope this helps
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Hi Barry, ok, that sounds plausible. Then I'll remove the whole thing again tomorrow and try to re-calibrate. Many thanks for your help and keep up the good work. I really like your videos.
many thanks
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Hi Barry, I've just watched the video where you put the whole thing back together. If I understand correctly, the coil valve must have a maximum stroke of 0.103’. When I calibrated it, the maximum setting was 0.359’. Could it be that I need to replace the spring? Just a thought for now...
Hi, the amount of travel for the spool valve will be eteched onto the base of the spool, this is determind at manufacture, and this is the amount of travel that should be set, if your spool is set to 0.395" then it's probably in an open postion,
if it's moving that far then your spring could be broken.
off the top of my head I think the range for all spools is between 0.100" and 0.104" so you defo need to reduce the travel.
check out video 46 for setting the travel
many thanks
Barry
Check the selector lever is set to height control and not TCU.
cheers Rod,
Barry