Great as always. I would suggest running the cable down creating almost a U shape, and then back up into the grommet so water can’t run down the cable. The dip at the bottom stops the water running back up into the grommet. Just a little tip.
I want to get an 4ch amp for the speakers in my car. The two fronts are 60watts rms and the two rears are 90 watts rms. Should I get a 90 watt x 4 amp or a 75x4 amp? Is it possible to have two separate gains for the front and rear speakers?
One tip: I haven’t done my research on other kits but I purchased the Skar Audio kit and later figured out that it only comes with one pair of RCAs and only like 25 feet of speaker wire. When buying a wiring kit either make sure it has everything you need, buy additional stuff to add onto it, or do what I would look into next time and piece everything together.
i do more generalized "turning wrenches" on old cars than i do stereo installation, although ur channel has helped tremendously with the few installs that i have done... but the tape on the drill bit thang... so simple, but so genius! ...im just ashamed to admit in 30 years of workin on cars i have never thought to do that... great tip, thanx bro & god bless!
I was installing car stereo systems full time for a decade, from the early 80s to the early 90's (]probably why I now have a bad back, knees, shoulders!); my personal systems in 1983-84 included Fosgate amps, Audiomobile preamp and electronic crossover, and a/d/s amplification and speakers, a Nakamichi cassette deck, a Blaupunkt radio for FM, and a home-built subwoofer cabinet with two 10" Dynaudio woofers ---- a triamplified system. Alternator noise was always a possibility with any high amplification system, and although the steering column was often a sufficiently low-resistance ground (for the radio/cassette deck head unit) to prevent noise, sometimes the cure required running a 10 or 12 gauge ground wire from the amplifier ground point in the trunk up front to the radio/cassette unit, and isolating the deck from any metal parts in the dashboard. Some cars had wiring harnesses running near or behind the cassette deck that radiated noise into the tape heads, and required wrapping the harnesses, or the radio chassis, with mu metal, or even just aluminum foil. In a worst-case scenario, an audio isolation transformer might be required to break the ground loop, but fidelity could also be affected. Sometimes it took as long or longer to solve the noise problems as it did to install the system! PS, don't forget to fuse the supply wire at the battery end; I saw several do-it-yourselfers burn up their cars by neglecting the fuse.
I cringe when I see all these "Big 3" upgrades without extra fusing ie: running alt+ direct to batt+. How dumb do you have to be to skimp out on a $15 fuse?
Thanks Mark for always sharing your extensive knowledge about car audio with us! It's very much appreciated! Your know-how with car audio installation is invaluable for fans of the industry. Once again, Thanks!
@caraudioinstallation I just spent a little extra on that same waterproof grommets and step drill bit, I got 2 very thick 2/0 sky high car audio wire that needs to be ran! Was planning on going thru a plastic plate on floor, but after seeing your video it's safer the way you explained. I don't want any road hazards to knick those wires! Thanks for the great video!
Hey Mark, great video! I would just like to add one other trick that may help. After you drill the pilot hole with the small bit you can take a coat hanger or insulation ceiling tie and send it through the hole and have confirmation that you are in the location you’d like to be in. This is a little residential electrician tip that can also be applied here! Better safe than sorry. Happy installing!
A spent brass bullet casing also works very good for punching a hole through the grommet. A tight grommet fit is even more important for keeping under hood fumes out of the pass compartment than moisture out.
Great practical video as always. I would suggest those who don't want to buy a hole punch can just drill it carefully. Most people will have a drill bit rather than a hole punch. Great to see a proper grommet over a rubber one.
Thanks for all your awesome tutorials, bloody legend mate, my tip is when using ferrules , I make the wire longer than the ferrule, just a touch longer so it just pokes through the end, then I put a little solder just on the end , hope that helps , 2 ive also used a clear sealer on mdf , helps with moisture 🤙
Great video! So excited to get started on my project. I have all the equipment and some ideas. You’ll never guess what website I went to to get a custom enclosure design! Keep up the good work!
Your videos are the absolute best! You do such and awesome job of making sure its super high end but also explaining for people that are new to the scene! Keep it up and super glad you crank out these vids!!
I've been looking for a video from Mark on this topic for months! I'm like... he must have it among these 10,000 videos on amplifiers and digital signal processors somewhere. 🤦♂️
I'd like to see YOU do a video on "How To Effectively Seal Up Your Vehicle To Ensure Your Vehicles Maximum SPL", because there are many ways to do so such as the air pressure release for when closing your doors, the air duct work, and the dozens of open air cavities within the interior of the body.
At my shop we make a few turn's of tape on the wire then slide the flex loom up to the tape. Now fit the tape through the split and finish taping on the loom.
2/0 should be able to go through firewall! In my opinion the only time under vehicle is ok is on demo vehicles where there are several runs, you aren't fitting those under carpet. But in demo vehicles you aren't driving as much either, and many ride on trailers everywhere
CarAudioFabrication thx for the reply. I think I was overthinking this and figured the carpet would lay right with that size wire. All the products are already in my amazon basket lol. Thanks for the content and awesome videos.
Thank you for this video! I am redoing the wiring in my 86 4runner and adding a sub and a couple of amps. Not to mention LED pods on my roof rack. I had no idea these grommets even existed. They create such a clean look and solid waterproof hole. This has really make made my whole build so much nicer and long lasting.
Thanks for the video! I have spent half an hour watching idiots messing around and doing their own version of "Gone With The Wind" epic movie that basically showed nothing of any use - This is the first video that makes some sense, thanks!
Great tips! And great video! I never thought of using the screw type grommet even though they are common place on marine applications. Could you do a video like this one for cars with the battery located in the trunk? It's deceivingly "easy" to run power but the grounding is tricky to avoid inferences while maintaining that clean and thorough install you make look so easy. Thanks!
I use a small fiberglass arrow to feed, tape my wire to it, make about a small 1/2” cut to a grommet, and use a liberal amount of silicone spray lubricant to feed the wire through and use the wire itself as the punch. It’s speedy and almost always tight as a nun.
Real good and concise video Mark. You did a real good job of warning about the pitfalls of hole placement and wire protection. Can’t beat that. Take care of yourself in this troubled time. We’re right here!
New concepts 4 gauge OFC kit is so fucking good for the money I'm telling you. I just installed it in my coworkers car. it's the only kit that comes with 12 gauge speaker wire and a really nice fuse holder. And it doesn't cost $100. THANK YOU FOR NOT BEING GREEDY
jones try to use a strut tower or a seat mount just make sure to sand down to bare metal first although there was this random ass bolt in the middle of my cars body under the rear seat I used that
Mi querido Mark Me gustaría un video sobre cómo hacer montajes de paneles etc Algo además de los imanes Te lo pido a ti porque tu eres crack! Saludos Ya voy a ponerme a ver el video
I bought the same 4AWG kit. It is a good kit, but the gland nut and rubber grommet they supplied were lacking. I made them work but probably will be changing them out.
you can buy those white plastic screw grommets at any electrical supply store just tell them you need a C.G.B. connector and tell them what diameter your cable👍
Just curious if you could do a video on big 3 upgrade and how to pick wiring size based on high output alternators? Something like your amp wiring/fuse video
Mark, I truly like all your videos,s I,m a newbie to amplifier installs; I purchased a set of JBL CONCERT 601cf component speakers; I also purchased (2) custom auto-sound UNDERCOVER 2 UNDER SEAT 8"WOFFERS; THE HEAD UNIT IS A CUSTOM AUTO-SOUND 230 STEREO- 1970 CHEVY C-10 PICKUP- There are R.C.A. OUTPUTS on the backside of the head unit- ; QUESTION; there ARE NO RCA INPUTS on the undercover woofers; CAN i USE THE RCA,s if I plug in the RCA,s to the head unit and cut off the RCA INPUTS ENDS -STIPE THE WIRE FROM THE CUT-OFF THE ENDS AND PLUG INTO THE Kenwood X802-5 AMPHLIFIER?? hope you have time for a reply, thank,s Patrick Peterman
I have a quick question unrelated to this video. If you could please answer me. I'm about to make some kick panels for my car. How much 1.5 Oz chopped Matt do I need in yards? How much epoxy resin do I need? Is a half gallon enough? All I'm making is to kick panels for to 5 in a quart speakers and 1 inch tweeters
Hi MARK, thank you for your explication. Please I d like to ask you if there is any chance to upgrade door speakers civic 98 or I have juste to replace them for better ones. Thanks.
Love your content. But question for you. I understand your main focus is car audio, but have you ever ran an audio system for a motorcycle that wasn't for a harley Davidson?
Hello Mark thank you for making this awesome videos I'm enjoying watching them a lot. As I can see you are doing lots of sound quality installation and I hope you can help me with choosing speakers for my build. I'm at the moment on crossroad and I want to ask your opinion on speakers. 1 is audison voce k6 and 2 is Hertz mile pro mpk 165p 3.
I'd be interested to see data on how much audio companies truly invest in R & D. The thing I've found with most any place I've ever walked into be it a chain( franchisee or corporate) or a small independent boutique is that most places aren't concerned with selling you their best products or best value. They're concerned with the highest profit margins...
I’ve watched your other video on how to measure resistance and voltage drop. I’m seeing very minimal voltage drop between my battery and amps. However, after measuring the resistance of my ground points I decided to measure the resistance from battery positive post to the distribution block in the rear of my vehicle and it was about 5 ohms. Can you explain what level of resistance you should have on the positive run to the back of the car. I’ve used 0 gauge. I plan on doing a big upgrade pretty soon, so I’m just curious about what level of resistance I should be looking for.
4:30 Considering you're doing this on a table, how do we make this hole when the firewall rubber is vertically in the firewall with nothing hard behind it and no way of holding up a piece of wood on the other side of the firewall, behind it (without a second person)?? I'm asking for those of us who do not have help or a Go-Go Gadget Arm of course =D
You'll be fine, just don't drill any holes in places that are easily seen and make sure the car functions properly once returned. Source: I work in a dealership
Good vid but do I run the power wire from the battery to the trunk on the driver side and the remote and rca cable on the passenger side or the other way around ?
Hello Mark. If I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 4 door. How long do my RCA'S need to be if I have my amps are mounted under the back seat. I am about to upgrade my RCA's and do not know what footages I need to buy. I'm thinking a 13' for one amp and a 17' for the other. Power is on the passenger side of my truck and RCA'S on the driver side. Highs amp is on the driver's side and bass mono amp is on the passenger side of the truck.
Do you have a video on how to match an amplifier to new speakers? For example do i need 50 watts RMS speakers with a 200 watts amplifier? How do we match the wattage?
You only mention connecting straight to the battery. Is there anything wrong with connecting to the fuse box? (Very easily done with a fuse tap which can be bought off eBay, and doesn't required modifying the original vehicle). I understand that this might not be good for a large high power amp which requires a lot of current. However I am only installing a small active underseat sub, 130w RMS and 300w max, it say it only requires a 10a feed. Whats your opinion on that?
Great informative video as always Mark. Following the links to make purchases as I have my two vehicles to do stereo installations in. What size wire gland do I use for 4 gauge power wire? What size wire gland do I use for 1/0 power wire?
Hey mat. Going to install 2 batteries in the rear of my car. But my amplifier manual say DONT GROUND TO BATERY. But im going to ground my batteries to the chasis. Is it ok to ground my amps to batery in that situation or do i have to ground the amps the chasis also
Do you have any tutorials on wiring 2 subs to a monoblock amp at 1ohms? Ordered 2 DVC 4ohm subs and need help wiring them to 1ohm. Also if my amp is stable at 1ohm load does that mean overtime 1ohm will damage amp running it like it daily? Heard some amps hate 1ohm loads... thanks.
If your only choices were running wire alongside factory harness through an existing grommet or creating a new hole in the firewall, which would you choose?
Hi @CarAudioFabricarions! I have about 400$ from my birthday to spend on a audio system. The issue is I don’t know much about car audio. Can you help me? What you you recomend? Thanks!
I'm preparing to install a lamphus PA system as well as a uniden cb radio in my 04 Toyota tundra and this video helped me identify where to run the wires through the firewall. I want to wire my cb radio into the PA system control/amp unit so I can use the PTT mic of the CB radio as the mic for the PA system (which has its own PTT mic that is much lower quality) from my understanding, I can connect the 2 white "radio" wires from the PA system harness to a 3.5mm audio adapter end and plug that into the PA speaker jack on the back of my cb radio. Does anyone know if I'm correct or not? I've tried searching online, TH-cam etc and haven't found a video or forum post where someone detailed this combination of systems. Any help is very much appreciated.
Unrelated question- I’ve got something , I assume the source is in/under the back seat of my crewcab truck. Something is loose and I can turn it hit bumps and all the sudden my subs start hitting with an awful knocking sound. Almost has the same sound like if you took a deflated basketball and tried to bounce it on the ground. That hollow rubbery sound . I’ve looked around and my subs appear secure and my wiring to my amp all is locked down well I think. The only thing I noticed is my bass knob input , looks like a headphone jack not a phone line, and it’s very loose fitting and it’s backed out a few times. Each time that sound has come and I got back there I had to push it back in a little. There’s been a couple times it’s come and gone before I got back there. Any suggestions where to look? Oh yeah. It may also be voltage related. Hard to know becuase I have a silverado with that stupid RVC crap that messes with, just like all their other stupid little nanny features that all add up to saving about a gallon of gas a year but adds about 10% to the tag price having to fix that garbage all the time. Anyways, I think I've noticed a slight drop of voltage when it happens. Say it being at 13,8 steady, then it'll drop down to 13-13.5 and there comes the sound. So that could maybe be involved
My biggest mistake was cutting the power to long for the fuse box then finding out that the cable hooking to the battery to the fuse box needs to be short not 4 feet long. So I lost 2 feet and 10 inches of wire won't make that mistake again. Thanks for the tips.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great as always. I would suggest running the cable down creating almost a U shape, and then back up into the grommet so water can’t run down the cable. The dip at the bottom stops the water running back up into the grommet. Just a little tip.
Clint L that’s some smart thinkin 🧠
Respect
I want to get an 4ch amp for the speakers in my car. The two fronts are 60watts rms and the two rears are 90 watts rms. Should I get a 90 watt x 4 amp or a 75x4 amp? Is it possible to have two separate gains for the front and rear speakers?
@@Michael-jj2xl just go 90x4 , it's better to have more than not enough.
Its called a drip loop.
One tip: I haven’t done my research on other kits but I purchased the Skar Audio kit and later figured out that it only comes with one pair of RCAs and only like 25 feet of speaker wire. When buying a wiring kit either make sure it has everything you need, buy additional stuff to add onto it, or do what I would look into next time and piece everything together.
i do more generalized "turning wrenches" on old cars than i do stereo installation, although ur channel has helped tremendously with the few installs that i have done... but the tape on the drill bit thang... so simple, but so genius! ...im just ashamed to admit in 30 years of workin on cars i have never thought to do that... great tip, thanx bro & god bless!
Bruh you're a beast at hooking up sounds... Keep doing your thang 💯🙏🙏
I was installing car stereo systems full time for a decade, from the early 80s to the early 90's (]probably why I now have a bad back, knees, shoulders!); my personal systems in 1983-84 included Fosgate amps, Audiomobile preamp and electronic crossover, and a/d/s amplification and speakers, a Nakamichi cassette deck, a Blaupunkt radio for FM, and a home-built subwoofer cabinet with two 10" Dynaudio woofers ---- a triamplified system. Alternator noise was always a possibility with any high amplification system, and although the steering column was often a sufficiently low-resistance ground (for the radio/cassette deck head unit) to prevent noise, sometimes the cure required running a 10 or 12 gauge ground wire from the amplifier ground point in the trunk up front to the radio/cassette unit, and isolating the deck from any metal parts in the dashboard. Some cars had wiring harnesses running near or behind the cassette deck that radiated noise into the tape heads, and required wrapping the harnesses, or the radio chassis, with mu metal, or even just aluminum foil. In a worst-case scenario, an audio isolation transformer might be required to break the ground loop, but fidelity could also be affected. Sometimes it took as long or longer to solve the noise problems as it did to install the system!
PS, don't forget to fuse the supply wire at the battery end; I saw several do-it-yourselfers burn up their cars by neglecting the fuse.
good 'un I almost burned my car up in the 80 s like that lesson learned
I cringe when I see all these "Big 3" upgrades without extra fusing ie: running alt+ direct to batt+. How dumb do you have to be to skimp out on a $15 fuse?
Thanks Mark for always sharing your extensive knowledge about car audio with us! It's very much appreciated! Your know-how with car audio installation is invaluable for fans of the industry. Once again, Thanks!
@caraudioinstallation I just spent a little extra on that same waterproof grommets and step drill bit, I got 2 very thick 2/0 sky high car audio wire that needs to be ran! Was planning on going thru a plastic plate on floor, but after seeing your video it's safer the way you explained. I don't want any road hazards to knick those wires! Thanks for the great video!
Hey Mark, great video! I would just like to add one other trick that may help. After you drill the pilot hole with the small bit you can take a coat hanger or insulation ceiling tie and send it through the hole and have confirmation that you are in the location you’d like to be in. This is a little residential electrician tip that can also be applied here! Better safe than sorry. Happy installing!
It's the 3rd time since the beginning of my installation that you have a video EXACTLY about what I need. Amazing
Well explained, for those of us who are less educated/experienced. Thank you!
Great as usual! Thanks again for my latest box design. Finishing up the install in the morning. Can't wait to hear all 5 of those subs!
A spent brass bullet casing also works very good for punching a hole through the grommet. A tight grommet fit is even more important for keeping under hood fumes out of the pass compartment than moisture out.
I installed that exact amp wire kit and its killer. Great quality and not a bank breaker
Great practical video as always. I would suggest those who don't want to buy a hole punch can just drill it carefully. Most people will have a drill bit rather than a hole punch. Great to see a proper grommet over a rubber one.
Drill will tear more often than not...
I love doing things PROPERLY! Thanks for the great tutorials brother!
Thanks for all your awesome tutorials, bloody legend mate, my tip is when using ferrules , I make the wire longer than the ferrule, just a touch longer so it just pokes through the end, then I put a little solder just on the end , hope that helps , 2 ive also used a clear sealer on mdf , helps with moisture 🤙
Dude! You just saved me 400$.. I almost gave up until I found this video! Thank you!
Great video! So excited to get started on my project. I have all the equipment and some ideas. You’ll never guess what website I went to to get a custom enclosure design! Keep up the good work!
Just ordered the wiring kit that you showed should be delivered in 2 days hopefully it is as good as it looks I’m excited to install it in my vehicle.
Very good....u got me ready for my firewall job...thanks
Your videos are the absolute best! You do such and awesome job of making sure its super high end but also explaining for people that are new to the scene! Keep it up and super glad you crank out these vids!!
exactly! he shows how to do with for thr peeps that dont have all the luxury tools and resources. hes a master
I've been looking for a video from Mark on this topic for months! I'm like... he must have it among these 10,000 videos on amplifiers and digital signal processors somewhere. 🤦♂️
I'd like to see YOU do a video on "How To Effectively Seal Up Your Vehicle To Ensure Your Vehicles Maximum SPL", because there are many ways to do so such as the air pressure release for when closing your doors, the air duct work, and the dozens of open air cavities within the interior of the body.
This is great. I need to add a hole in my trunk to get to a good frame ground.
What's the trunk made of? Isn't it steel, attached to the frame?
At my shop we make a few turn's of tape on the wire then slide the flex loom up to the tape. Now fit the tape through the split and finish taping on the loom.
This video came in clutch. Getting ready to run wire (2/0). I was pretty set on running it under the vehicle bc of the size of wire I’m using.
2/0 should be able to go through firewall! In my opinion the only time under vehicle is ok is on demo vehicles where there are several runs, you aren't fitting those under carpet. But in demo vehicles you aren't driving as much either, and many ride on trailers everywhere
CarAudioFabrication thx for the reply. I think I was overthinking this and figured the carpet would lay right with that size wire. All the products are already in my amazon basket lol. Thanks for the content and awesome videos.
@@CarAudioFabrication I ran mine under ..I am running 4/0 awg cable .no firewall for me
Hey bro..what size grommet did you use for the 0 gauge wire through the firewall????
Thank you for this video! I am redoing the wiring in my 86 4runner and adding a sub and a couple of amps. Not to mention LED pods on my roof rack. I had no idea these grommets even existed. They create such a clean look and solid waterproof hole. This has really make made my whole build so much nicer and long lasting.
Loving the content man, thanks for all you do!
Thanks for the video! I have spent half an hour watching idiots messing around and doing their own version of "Gone With The Wind" epic movie that basically showed nothing of any use - This is the first video that makes some sense, thanks!
Great tips! And great video! I never thought of using the screw type grommet even though they are common place on marine applications.
Could you do a video like this one for cars with the battery located in the trunk? It's deceivingly "easy" to run power but the grounding is tricky to avoid inferences while maintaining that clean and thorough install you make look so easy.
Thanks!
I use a small fiberglass arrow to feed, tape my wire to it, make about a small 1/2” cut to a grommet, and use a liberal amount of silicone spray lubricant to feed the wire through and use the wire itself as the punch. It’s speedy and almost always tight as a nun.
mark thank you very much for sharing all your wisdom I have learned a lot from you a big hug from cd Juárez Chihuahua
Marc the best in the world
If you haven't already, can you do a video on the big 3 upgrade?
He has
Great video. Descriptive but not drawn out xD thank yu very much man
Real good and concise video Mark. You did a real good job of warning about the pitfalls of hole placement and wire protection. Can’t beat that. Take care of yourself in this troubled time. We’re right here!
New concepts 4 gauge OFC kit is so fucking good for the money I'm telling you. I just installed it in my coworkers car. it's the only kit that comes with 12 gauge speaker wire and a really nice fuse holder. And it doesn't cost $100. THANK YOU FOR NOT BEING GREEDY
Thank You for the tips. Definitely will try this soon.
Love your videos I’ve been searching for away to get threw my firewall I keep coming up blank for my 2013 Cadillac XTS
Dude you seriously came out with this video a day late that’s so funny 😂
I just did my power this week. But I need to get a frame ground. Score !
jones try to use a strut tower or a seat mount just make sure to sand down to bare metal first although there was this random ass bolt in the middle of my cars body under the rear seat I used that
If I have a grommet I just use a step bit to make my hole it's always super tight around the wire and I add a pinch of butyl rubber around the wire
Always great tips and tricks thank you!
Professional installation and advice, you have obviously done this before. Thank You for your informative video.
The video I’ve been waiting for!
Wow I just got the same amp kit from knuconcept, great kit for the price
Great Professional tips,Thanks!
Mi querido Mark
Me gustaría un video sobre cómo hacer montajes de paneles etc
Algo además de los imanes
Te lo pido a ti porque tu eres crack! Saludos
Ya voy a ponerme a ver el video
I bought the same 4AWG kit. It is a good kit, but the gland nut and rubber grommet they supplied were lacking. I made them work but probably will be changing them out.
you can buy those white plastic screw grommets at any electrical supply store just tell them you need a C.G.B. connector and tell them what diameter your cable👍
I wonder if Home Depot might have them.
Which gramet size is a fit for a zero gage 0/1 wire ?
I can't remove the rubber grommit I want to make a hole in and don't have a punch, any advice on making the hole?
Great tip an video ❤
Just curious if you could do a video on big 3 upgrade and how to pick wiring size based on high output alternators? Something like your amp wiring/fuse video
Mark, I truly like all your videos,s I,m a newbie to amplifier installs; I purchased a set of JBL CONCERT 601cf component speakers; I also purchased (2) custom auto-sound UNDERCOVER 2 UNDER SEAT 8"WOFFERS; THE HEAD UNIT IS A CUSTOM AUTO-SOUND 230 STEREO- 1970 CHEVY C-10 PICKUP- There are R.C.A. OUTPUTS on the backside of the head unit- ; QUESTION; there ARE NO RCA INPUTS on the undercover woofers; CAN i USE THE RCA,s if I plug in the RCA,s to the head unit and cut off the RCA INPUTS ENDS -STIPE THE WIRE FROM THE CUT-OFF THE ENDS AND PLUG INTO THE Kenwood X802-5 AMPHLIFIER?? hope you have time for a reply, thank,s Patrick Peterman
I have a quick question unrelated to this video. If you could please answer me. I'm about to make some kick panels for my car. How much 1.5 Oz chopped Matt do I need in yards? How much epoxy resin do I need? Is a half gallon enough? All I'm making is to kick panels for to 5 in a quart speakers and 1 inch tweeters
Hi Mark
I’ve purchased a wire kit from your sponsor! Question? Ground wire finding best placement?
Hi MARK, thank you for your explication. Please I d like to ask you if there is any chance to upgrade door speakers civic 98 or I have juste to replace them for better ones. Thanks.
Can you wire a ground to the negative battery post then use a distribution block to lead the grounds to the two amps?
Love your content. But question for you. I understand your main focus is car audio, but have you ever ran an audio system for a motorcycle that wasn't for a harley Davidson?
Hello Mark thank you for making this awesome videos I'm enjoying watching them a lot. As I can see you are doing lots of sound quality installation and I hope you can help me with choosing speakers for my build. I'm at the moment on crossroad and I want to ask your opinion on speakers. 1 is audison voce k6 and 2 is Hertz mile pro mpk 165p 3.
Is there a part 2 about connecting & fuses ?
Great video bud!
What about the seat belt that is channeled through the larger back seat, how do you remove?
I'd be interested to see data on how much audio companies truly invest in R & D. The thing I've found with most any place I've ever walked into be it a chain( franchisee or corporate) or a small independent boutique is that most places aren't concerned with selling you their best products or best value. They're concerned with the highest profit margins...
I’ve watched your other video on how to measure resistance and voltage drop. I’m seeing very minimal voltage drop between my battery and amps. However, after measuring the resistance of my ground points I decided to measure the resistance from battery positive post to the distribution block in the rear of my vehicle and it was about 5 ohms. Can you explain what level of resistance you should have on the positive run to the back of the car. I’ve used 0 gauge. I plan on doing a big upgrade pretty soon, so I’m just curious about what level of resistance I should be looking for.
4:30 Considering you're doing this on a table, how do we make this hole when the firewall rubber is vertically in the firewall with nothing hard behind it and no way of holding up a piece of wood on the other side of the firewall, behind it (without a second person)?? I'm asking for those of us who do not have help or a Go-Go Gadget Arm of course =D
You would remove the piece from the firewall and modify it on a workbench.
Great info, thanks. May I ask what should be a right fuse to use for 10Ga and 8Ga cable in 12V battery?
Hi Mark. Could you do a guide on installing equipment into a leased car, without drilling holes or cutting factory wires?
You'll be fine, just don't drill any holes in places that are easily seen and make sure the car functions properly once returned. Source: I work in a dealership
Good vid but do I run the power wire from the battery to the trunk on the driver side and the remote and rca cable on the passenger side or the other way around ?
Quick question I hope you could help. Can you ground two different grounds from different things on the same bolt
Hello Mark. If I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 4 door. How long do my RCA'S need to be if I have my amps are mounted under the back seat. I am about to upgrade my RCA's and do not know what footages I need to buy. I'm thinking a 13' for one amp and a 17' for the other. Power is on the passenger side of my truck and RCA'S on the driver side. Highs amp is on the driver's side and bass mono amp is on the passenger side of the truck.
I used 17 ft of RCA From the HU all the way to trunk in a 2006 Nissan Altima, car is spacey so I'm sure 17 ft is enough for your truck.
If I have more than one amp can I run each wire separately fused? Meaning, two different fuses, two different grounds and the same with remote.
Do you have a video on how to match an amplifier to new speakers? For example do i need 50 watts RMS speakers with a 200 watts amplifier? How do we match the wattage?
Have you already done a video going through a 2017 Accord Hybrid firewall?
I just drilled through a grommet and flex sealed basically what he said but extra measure for leaks using flex seal
You only mention connecting straight to the battery.
Is there anything wrong with connecting to the fuse box? (Very easily done with a fuse tap which can be bought off eBay, and doesn't required modifying the original vehicle).
I understand that this might not be good for a large high power amp which requires a lot of current.
However I am only installing a small active underseat sub, 130w RMS and 300w max, it say it only requires a 10a feed.
Whats your opinion on that?
Quick tip for sealing the exposed metal. Very cost effective, nail polish haha.
Thanks for sharing. Did u ever upload the vid to installing second battery?
Chris Gonzalez yes he did. i think it was in #projectrebuild
William Villadsen Thanks William, i’ll go check it out
Great informative video as always Mark. Following the links to make purchases as I have my two vehicles to do stereo installations in. What size wire gland do I use for 4 gauge power wire? What size wire gland do I use for 1/0 power wire?
Hey mat. Going to install 2 batteries in the rear of my car. But my amplifier manual say DONT GROUND TO BATERY. But im going to ground my batteries to the chasis. Is it ok to ground my amps to batery in that situation or do i have to ground the amps the chasis also
Any specific suggestions for a 2016 Nissan Altima as in any spot that is easiest ,For the 12 volt line?
Hi
That better grommet, the one that is threaded. Do you have a link to a supplier?
Thank you
Do you have any tutorials on wiring 2 subs to a monoblock amp at 1ohms? Ordered 2 DVC 4ohm subs and need help wiring them to 1ohm. Also if my amp is stable at 1ohm load does that mean overtime 1ohm will damage amp running it like it daily? Heard some amps hate 1ohm loads... thanks.
If your only choices were running wire alongside factory harness through an existing grommet or creating a new hole in the firewall, which would you choose?
Mark, what is the best cable gland for power cable, PVC or stainless?
Would have been nice to offset that whole for future runs … using the middle home makes future additions difficult.
Why no capacitor in the amplifier kit? Is it more to have that come with it??
Hi @CarAudioFabricarions! I have about 400$ from my birthday to spend on a audio system. The issue is I don’t know much about car audio. Can you help me? What you you recomend? Thanks!
What would you say causes engine noise in the speakers both in doors and from subs.
Does the grommet that had to be drilled in take a 4 gauge power wire?
One month late for me :D
But hey... nice to see, that I did everything right 😁
Great info! Thanks.
im having some trouble with finding a good location on a 2015 nissan sentra sr.. any ideas other than the wheel well? thanks
I'm preparing to install a lamphus PA system as well as a uniden cb radio in my 04 Toyota tundra and this video helped me identify where to run the wires through the firewall. I want to wire my cb radio into the PA system control/amp unit so I can use the PTT mic of the CB radio as the mic for the PA system (which has its own PTT mic that is much lower quality) from my understanding, I can connect the 2 white "radio" wires from the PA system harness to a 3.5mm audio adapter end and plug that into the PA speaker jack on the back of my cb radio. Does anyone know if I'm correct or not? I've tried searching online, TH-cam etc and haven't found a video or forum post where someone detailed this combination of systems. Any help is very much appreciated.
Unrelated question- I’ve got something , I assume the source is in/under the back seat of my crewcab truck. Something is loose and I can turn it hit bumps and all the sudden my subs start hitting with an awful knocking sound. Almost has the same sound like if you took a deflated basketball and tried to bounce it on the ground. That hollow rubbery sound . I’ve looked around and my subs appear secure and my wiring to my amp all is locked down well I think. The only thing I noticed is my bass knob input , looks like a headphone jack not a phone line, and it’s very loose fitting and it’s backed out a few times. Each time that sound has come and I got back there I had to push it back in a little. There’s been a couple times it’s come and gone before I got back there. Any suggestions where to look?
Oh yeah. It may also be voltage related. Hard to know becuase I have a silverado with that stupid RVC crap that messes with, just like all their other stupid little nanny features that all add up to saving about a gallon of gas a year but adds about 10% to the tag price having to fix that garbage all the time. Anyways, I think I've noticed a slight drop of voltage when it happens. Say it being at 13,8 steady, then it'll drop down to 13-13.5 and there comes the sound. So that could maybe be involved
Is running ampflier power wire under the carpet safe?!
Thank you.
How do you hit it with a hammer on the table if im unable to remove the gromet from the firewLl
My biggest mistake was cutting the power to long for the fuse box then finding out that the cable hooking to the battery to the fuse box needs to be short not 4 feet long. So I lost 2 feet and 10 inches of wire won't make that mistake again. Thanks for the tips.