I hope you make another video about this system and how it works. It looks like there is a drain on the worm bin that would allow excess water to drain off but I can't quite see how it works.
Honestly, if the holes are big enough for droppings to fall through, the floor will hurt the rabbits' feet. They also have a fear of falling and every moment their instincts tell them they are about to fall. They also do not want to be near their waste and evolved/were designed to instinctively eliminate out of their burrows. If you have rabbits who don't like to be held, bite, kick, and cower/run... It's because they're constantly stressed and in pain. People think of rabbits as cage/enclosure animals and therefore associate them with stinky, messy, hard to clean, and not cuddly. On the contrary, if rabbits are kept as domesticated pets or farm animals, even as livestock for meat, they're better off kept similarly to an indoor cat or in a run with a safe hutch or enclosed house like chickens. Rabbits are very self-hygenic and instinctively avoid elimination of waste in their burrows/sleeping areas. Hutch/small cage enclosures add another layer of stress from the filth being all over their space. The hutch-over-worm bin set-up is like a human having to walk on attic rafters with no floor over an open basement cess-pit. Full of worms. You will also need to have at least 2, or socialize with them yourself CONSTANTLY. They are evolved/designed to be in large family groups and have free abundant access to grazing as well as heightened stress responses for safety from prey animals. Being on an open floor that hurts their feet with nowhere to exercise or get away from their waste is miserable. Stress leaves them as an injury threat to their keepers and prone to illness, disease, and parasites. I see no upside to this method. If you're interested in low-maintenance rabbit keeping, consider keeping them as house-pets and look up how to litter-box train them. A rabbit tractor with multiple rabbits also allows them to be kept outside, constantly on fresh grazing, and droppings can be easily collected and moved to worm bin or garden, left to aid in restoring grazing, or followed with a chicken tractor as chickens really enjoy rabbit droppings.
Lydia, I raised rabbits for years in 4-H as a kid and now, at 50-something, have four Rex rabbits in smaller cages than nurrhamzah has. They're fine in a 2'x2' cage floored with 1/4" hardware cloth as long as they also have a nesting box or board to rest their feet. My rabbits don't get sore hocks. Despite the assertions in your comments, my rabbits who live in these conditions don't run from me, don't bite, and like being petted. I don't hold my rabbits because they're not pets and they don't particularly like being held, but the Netherland Dwarfs I raised as a kid didn't mind being held. I should qualify that -- the bucks didn't mind handling, but the does did. The only rabbit I've ever owned that bit humans was a psycho little grey female Netherland Dwarf that, unlike my other rabbits, was not raised from birth by me. We never knew whether her bad temper and extreme territorialism was a result of bad breeding or from something that happened to her before we bought her. She ate her kits too, even though she was raised in the same conditions as our other does which were all great mothers. To suit her temperament, my sister and I changed her name from Misty to Carrie. My experience is that a rabbit run doesn't work well. We had two 4'x8' ones for our four Rexes. It was hard to move them so that the rabbits could have fresh forage without risking a rabbit's escape or the breaking of a leg, and it really stressed them to have it moved. They also dug underneath the walls to escape, leaving ankle-breaking holes all over our back yard. We tried adding a floor made of welded wire fencing with holes too small for a rabbit's head, but that didn't work either because it trapped feces rather than leaving them behind when we moved the pen. Someday I hope to bury some chain link fence a few feet underground, adding more for a sidewall, and adding a pile of maybe wood chips above the surface to create a rabbit warren that they can tunnel into but can't tunnel out of. The problem with that is that, like an immovable rabbit run, it will collect feces, so if I can't figure out a solution that doesn't create high maintenance, I won't do it.
LOVE your system there! Thanks for sharing.
you are welcome. lets try it . =)
I hope you make another video about this system and how it works. It looks like there is a drain on the worm bin that would allow excess water to drain off but I can't quite see how it works.
idea yang bagus..
Honestly, if the holes are big enough for droppings to fall through, the floor will hurt the rabbits' feet. They also have a fear of falling and every moment their instincts tell them they are about to fall. They also do not want to be near their waste and evolved/were designed to instinctively eliminate out of their burrows. If you have rabbits who don't like to be held, bite, kick, and cower/run... It's because they're constantly stressed and in pain.
People think of rabbits as cage/enclosure animals and therefore associate them with stinky, messy, hard to clean, and not cuddly. On the contrary, if rabbits are kept as domesticated pets or farm animals, even as livestock for meat, they're better off kept similarly to an indoor cat or in a run with a safe hutch or enclosed house like chickens.
Rabbits are very self-hygenic and instinctively avoid elimination of waste in their burrows/sleeping areas. Hutch/small cage enclosures add another layer of stress from the filth being all over their space. The hutch-over-worm bin set-up is like a human having to walk on attic rafters with no floor over an open basement cess-pit. Full of worms.
You will also need to have at least 2, or socialize with them yourself CONSTANTLY. They are evolved/designed to be in large family groups and have free abundant access to grazing as well as heightened stress responses for safety from prey animals. Being on an open floor that hurts their feet with nowhere to exercise or get away from their waste is miserable.
Stress leaves them as an injury threat to their keepers and prone to illness, disease, and parasites. I see no upside to this method.
If you're interested in low-maintenance rabbit keeping, consider keeping them as house-pets and look up how to litter-box train them. A rabbit tractor with multiple rabbits also allows them to be kept outside, constantly on fresh grazing, and droppings can be easily collected and moved to worm bin or garden, left to aid in restoring grazing, or followed with a chicken tractor as chickens really enjoy rabbit droppings.
Lydia, I raised rabbits for years in 4-H as a kid and now, at 50-something, have four Rex rabbits in smaller cages than nurrhamzah has. They're fine in a 2'x2' cage floored with 1/4" hardware cloth as long as they also have a nesting box or board to rest their feet. My rabbits don't get sore hocks. Despite the assertions in your comments, my rabbits who live in these conditions don't run from me, don't bite, and like being petted. I don't hold my rabbits because they're not pets and they don't particularly like being held, but the Netherland Dwarfs I raised as a kid didn't mind being held. I should qualify that -- the bucks didn't mind handling, but the does did. The only rabbit I've ever owned that bit humans was a psycho little grey female Netherland Dwarf that, unlike my other rabbits, was not raised from birth by me. We never knew whether her bad temper and extreme territorialism was a result of bad breeding or from something that happened to her before we bought her. She ate her kits too, even though she was raised in the same conditions as our other does which were all great mothers. To suit her temperament, my sister and I changed her name from Misty to Carrie.
My experience is that a rabbit run doesn't work well. We had two 4'x8' ones for our four Rexes. It was hard to move them so that the rabbits could have fresh forage without risking a rabbit's escape or the breaking of a leg, and it really stressed them to have it moved. They also dug underneath the walls to escape, leaving ankle-breaking holes all over our back yard. We tried adding a floor made of welded wire fencing with holes too small for a rabbit's head, but that didn't work either because it trapped feces rather than leaving them behind when we moved the pen.
Someday I hope to bury some chain link fence a few feet underground, adding more for a sidewall, and adding a pile of maybe wood chips above the surface to create a rabbit warren that they can tunnel into but can't tunnel out of. The problem with that is that, like an immovable rabbit run, it will collect feces, so if I can't figure out a solution that doesn't create high maintenance, I won't do it.
I was under the impression that rabbit manure can be directly put on plants so why create several laborous extra steps?
Good information, thanks for posting this.
Hi. What did u put at the bottom of the bin and what did u use for the casing? Thanks
Mantab
Where can we get those kind of cages with the bottom bin attached? They are so great!
Just diy it. Very easy. 😁
kualiti vermicompost pakai rabbit dung ni ok tak
doesn't the smell of ammonia bother you?
If manage properly, there will be no smell. The microbe from the worm will reduce/process the ammonia
Can i see how you set it up? Nice video
Good system bro..5kg per container,quiet huge of weight..
Isn't the urine to high for the worm bin.
Nope. The system running in good condition. The worm no keep increasing everytime it been harvested
What is this guys nationality?
Malaysia
im starting my own vermicompocting with my rabbit ranch.check this too..
Walaykumus Salàm waramatulahi wabarakatuh.
I don’t know worms eat grass too 🤷🏼♂️
they eat the degraded material. So if the organic material decomposed, they will eat it =)