How to print on a powder-coated sheet
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2019
- In this video, we’ll take a close look at what makes powder-coated sheets unique and what are the differences compared to standard smooth PEI sheets. blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to...
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After one year waiting I got finally one. Wow! It‘s like a new printer. It works absolutely great 👍.
It's worth noting that you no longer need to recalibrate when switching sheets since there is support for profiles.
Note: this is not yet the case for the Prusa Mini
@@jonathansmith7607 rip. good thing i got a mk3 then lol
@@blazinghobby7089 The Mini does have profiles, his comment was over a year ago
@Calvin Zhang There are 6(?) steel sheet profiles you can store to memory now. You can quickly and easily switch profiles before each print.
It is a fantastic print surface. I print in petg and can say after hundreds of prints of using windex as a release agent after cleaning with IPA the bed is still good as new and have not even flipped it to use the bottom side.
After a few months of use I couldn’t get PLA or PETG to stick to the textured bed at all! Even though this video says not to use acetone on it I figured it wouldn’t hurt since the build plate became worthless to me anyway. So I cleaned it with a towel lightly saturated with acetone just enough to cover the whole surface. Now it works perfect again!
I have cleaned mine with 99% IPA and recalibrated the bed several times, following the guide and hundreds of hours on other printers leveling manually. I am printing the supplied benchy PLA gcode on the SD card that was in the box, and using the supplied prusament. and it wont stick for more than a couple layers before pulling away. Very unfortunate experience. Contacting support, might have to send it back.
My Sheet was delivered last week for my Prusa MK3s and works great with PLA and PETG
Great Product Josef Prusa
only the delivery Coast are high to Germany ;)
Bernd Sandner wait the PETG does not destroy the surface?
Love the Shopping Cart token @ 1:30 😂Those are the best!
I didn't realize that's what it was. Thanks, I'm going to print one now!
Captain Sparks what is it?
I've just recieved my powder-C sheet, and wondered about, this is exactly it, how we get it from prusa usually, nice usefull video, good work, thank you!
This is the best surface i have printed on. Great adhesion and it leaves a great finish. It was well worth the wait.
fassenkugel I don’t think it is the same quality as the anycubic ultrabase. I have this one and it is really good quality, it does not wear out. And you have 2 sides.
@fassenkugel I use a anycubic ultrabase for 1.5 years now and everything sticks perfect. what have you done to your ultrabase? ;D
What material do unually print with?
Nice of you to make a vid about a product I have been unable to purchase so far! ;)
Did you buy an Mk3? If yes you should have received an email and offer to get your Powder Coated Sheet or opt for a free PEI sheet. As far as I know every Mk3 owner to date has had the opportunity to get one of these. Buying more? That's a different story and one that has been explained in detail by Joseph himself as well as others.
Go to prusa3d.com, login, spare parts, MK3, page 2 near the top and you can order one.
Not every Mk3 owner, only those who bought during a short period in late 2017, to the rest of us the PC sheet has always been (and looks to remain) vapourware.
Dave Lordy I bought my MK3 in June 2018 and I was able to order one.
I bought mine early Jan 2018, been trying to buy the PC sheet since, no luck so far, Prusa's ordering system seems entirely random, these sheets don't even show up in the store for me.
Is the "Pronto" cleaner shown a window cleaner of some kind? I've been using Windex because I thought it would have *less* strength than alcohol.
Question. Do you not get fibers coming off as you wipe like that? Even a micro-fiber cloth I find leaving lint that gets caught on the rough side of the powder coat.
So, quick question. You mention not to use release agents like glue stick or painter's tape, and mention in the next sentence of damage to the PEI sheet (not sure if this is related to the glue stick use or the acetone cleaning, the wording is a bit confusing).
But on your Material Table, you recommend using a glue stick for ASA, ABS, PC and PA, even with a textured sheet. So I'm not sure if using a glue stick is recommended or not? Could it cause the tiny cracks you mention around the same time, or did I mis-interpret that being attributed to the glue stick/tape?
Having a hard time getting PETG or PLA to stick with the powder coated sheet. I have set the z value so that it makes smooth lines, not to low not to high. It seems to take a few tries before the PETG will stick. If I wipe with IPA then nothing sticks. Any tips and thx for all of your great video's
Same here. After cleaning with IPA, nothing absolutly nothing sticks. Only 3D Lac ist the solution.
Had to wait a long time for mine but it is amazing !
how long can it be used ? I had to readjust the first layer for the textured sheet now the second time to keep it on the bed. Everything is working fine on the smooth sheet.
In the first shot of the video, is there 3 type of different sheets?
Actually, i have 3 sheets on hand already, the parts name are TF-21, WA-11 and BH-25, how can i check the parts number refer for?
I was waiting for this shit for such a long time, finally,...
Where Can I buy spare spring steel plates?? In the Prusa shop it says ''in Stock'' but there's no way to add it to Cart and buy it. I am logged in and bought a MK2.5S upgrade from your shop some time ago
With my Prusa MINI + and PETG I always have small parts sticking too well to the powder coated sheet, that can not be removed- what should I do there?
I’m trying to follow all instructions but I can’t get my parts to stick unless I used the glue stick provided by prusa, the same he is saying not tu use, I’m trying to print a box an lid , box is 206x184x37 lid same except height is 7mm, any suggestions?? Thanks in advance
I want to print nylon! What should i do? Just print on my powercoat sheet?? Thanks!
How do i get PETG to properly stick?
maybe its just my brand of PETG but it doesnt seem to stick well at 85-90°C to the Powdercoated sheet.
since you use this in your printfarm i wonder, Do you have some well proven settings or tricks?
(mk3s)
Using the textured sheet with PETG and the edges of my print aren't sticking to the bed (slightly curling up over time). My first layer seems to be match your recommended layer height in the video. Any advice?
Can I buy powder coated bed for my general 3D printer?
Brand new printer and sheet, the ordinary sheet works flawless, but I can't get anyting to stick properly to the powder coated one.
How would you guys rate the PEI Smooth VS Powder coated? Which on to get? I
So... no Windex or glue stick?
When we got our MK3, it came with a Powdered coat, as well as a glue stick. We just assumed that we should use the glue stick. We did clean it frequently with Isopropyl alcohol, but were still using the glue stick.
Recently we switched away from the stick, given the mess it leaves, and switched over to just Windex... which appears to work well!
I think the glue stick comes added as a last resort for exotic filaments that might be harder to adhere/release to/from the brintbed. I only needed it to make ASA filament release from the PEI sheet.
The gluestick doesn't hurt the sheet in any way, we just think it's not necessary to use it (and it causes some mess, as you mention) :)
Get the nozzle as close as you can to the sheet during first layer calibration. I think all the 'nooks and crannies' in the sheet's powder coating need to be filled so the print doesn't lose adhesion. I also turn the bed up to 70 rather than 60. I did that, I use Hatchbox PLA and I've been making beautiful secured prints ever since.
Hello from czech rep. :D did it work somehow also with MK2 ? thank you :)
Hi everybody
What about 3D lac and powder-coated sheet?
Can this product damage the sheet surface or printed surface?
Thank you for your response
It is available for other brands in different sizes?
Hello, I have a question. What happens when i use koress stick glue to adher my prints to the powder coated bed? I have been doing this quite often cause the prints were not sticking to it that well and most of the cases it broke of in mid print. The first layer is perfectly calibrated and it happens to prints with large surface are too.
It's fine, glue stick won't damage the sheet. It's just unnecessary to use it with the powder coated sheet, clean it with 90%+ IPA and prints should stick nicely by themselves.
@@Prusa3D can I use normal UHU stic?
Josef prusa should host meme review
I was having trouble getting the first layer correctly. It just wouldn't adhere enough. When lowering the Z, it would squish it too much and when it looked and felt right, it just wouldn't stick. It was only when I falsely sliced with ABS tempeperatures, I realized I had to make the first layer as hot as 230°C and it would make a perfect first layer!
I will have to try this, because all my prints have failed so far even though they stick fine to begin with!
@@mattiasfagerlund Just use dish soap and crape the sheet with a sponge. Alcohol does not remove grease, soap does. I had massive issues with the adhesion until I used dish soap. Now... It is the best 3D printing surface ever...
I’ve been using the textured bed for a few months mostly with PETG and I love it but lately I can’t get the PETG to stick to the bed during the first layer unless I excessively squish it and use lots of heat. I was about to use acetone but luckily I saw this video first. I use 91% IPA and that’s not working either. Any advice would be appreciated.
Note: I switched back to the smooth sheet and it sticks really well so the problem is with the sheet.
I have the same problem. I can't get PETG to stick, so i used gluestick and it worked perfectly.
I like to use hair spray works great
The instructions printed inside the MMU2S upgrade kit suggests to use WIndex to clean the print surface. I found it to be super effective, and worked better than 90% IPA. Do you no longer recommend to do that? Do you think it will damage the surface?
Hello, it is still recomended to clean the surface of the smooth sheet with Windex. However, this does not apply for the powder coated sheet (you need only IPA 90%+).
@@Prusa3D Is it harmful to use Windex on the powder coated sheet?
@@danielsmullen3223 It won't hurt it but it will reduce adhesion. I use Windex for PETG still on my powder coat but Windex definitely is a no-no when printing PLA on powder coat.
@@kodiak2fitty I had been using it for PETG, so this makes sense. I will clean with only IPA for PLA printing. Thanks!
The powder coated bed is a total highlight of the mk3 printer. - Makes printing much easier and I like the texture on the print. - Was worth waiting about 1 year:-) Thanks for the handling and cleaning tipps.
Thats weird.. I am sure that in one of the previous videos (or was it in the manual that came with the printer...), it was said to use acetone once in while to "replenish" the PEI coating?
You are right on both points. That was PEI they were talking about. This is powder coated.
When switching from using PLA on a smooth sheet to PETG on a powder-coated sheet, how do you do a first layer Z axis calibration, given that PLA will not stick to the textured sheet and THERE IS NO SETTING FOR THE PRUSAMENT PETG (250 HEAD/80 bED) AVAILABLE IN THE CALIBRATION PROCESS?
Petg won't stick to pla at all. So the answer is, imo, to mark one side for one material and the other for the other. Saves a lot of effort!
Petg is the second option down in the first layer calibration menu.
Looking forward to trying it out. Can you print Nylon and PC on it? Does this survive PETG without release agent? Pretty sneaky though. ;-)
I've been printing PETG for a week on my new powder coat sheet. It's awesome. Most prints will creak and pop just during the cooling process and release themselves. Nothing like the crazy adhere of PETG to the smooth PEI.
Rod,
I have used Taulman 910 with Elmers purple glue, and also PC-Max and Rigid Ink Pure Polycarbonate both with Magigoo PC and they all work terrific so far.
The only thing I found that can destroy the bed is Filamentive ASA. I use it precisely because it sticks so well but when I used it on my textured bed it pulled the surface off whilst removing the part 😱 Nylon needs something like undiluted PVA as it does with other surfaces.
@@kodiak2fitty Thanks for the info. That sounds fantastic!
@@pabsuk5558 That is some great news. Thank you. :)
Just got my first 3D printer Prusa MK3S+.. I'm using the powder coated bed sheet and using the standard PLA profile settings from the printer for the Prusament filament.. 215 hotend and 60 on the bed.. I've done my first layer calibration and it seems fine. My problem is after completing about 80% of the model it always seems to detach itself from the bed.. what am i doing wrong? I've tried using the glue stick and cleaned the sheet before every print with alcohol.
Just as an update.. I don't know what else to do.. I played around with temperatures, cleaned the textured sheet thoroughly with 99% IPA.. lowered my Z axis as much as i can.. tried using glue.. NOTHING WORKS. I feel this was somewhat of a false advertisement by Prusa that these textured sheets will work with PLA, cause it CANNOT. I can do most PLA prints if it takes less than 2hrs and it has a wide enough footprint.. but any prints that takes longer or has a less than a 5 cm base.. it's going to come off the sheet and fail.. guaranteed. Anyone like me that is just starting off with 3D printing and bought the MK3S+ with the textured bed sheet will feel very discouraged as anything but the simplest prints will fail.
@@patc8653 Pat, I’m in the same boat as you. As my prints near the last 15-20%, print detached from the base almost as if the nozzle catches on the top and breaks the connection at the base (taller model = more leverage). I’ve tried slowing down speed to 80% and raising the bed temp to 65deg but same problem. Tried dawn soap and green pad, IPA, Acetone, full xyz and first layer cal on a stable table, but no luck. Using the Prusament PLA include with my kit version and the stock memory card files. I e tried slicing my own with brims but same issue - it fails when it gets a couple of inches high. Even low profile prints sometimes fail, although not as frequent. Going to try the nylon lock nut mod under the bed to see if that helps.
@@jamram109 I solved my issues by simply using the Steel Sheet instead of the Powder Coated sheet when printing with PLA. I also use 99% alcohol to clean the sheets before each print. My temps are usually set at 50 for the bed and anywhere between 105 -110 on nozzle. Hope that helps..
@@patc8653 just a guess but did you try differend filament brands? What could also help is to use non-crossing infill patterns (gyroid for example) and maybe more zhop to minimise the forces that push away the model. After all the adhesion just isn't that great with PLA but for me it worked so far (with Prusament and Das Filament)
I did about 50 hours of printing and now i cannot get anything to stick anymore. Z axis is fine. Maybe a nozzle problem?
Benjamin Haut ... anche io stesso problema bho
Er...question...when I got my mk3, I was one of the fortunate few who get a powder coated sheet. It I'm never supposed to use glue sticks on it....why did my Prusa ship with a glue stick??
Probably for the smooth sheets or materials like Nylon which doesnt like to stick to these surfaces.
You'll need it if you ever print TPU. Printing TPU straight on to the bed can be a disaster (it sticks way, way too well).
@@MarkWheadon TPU on the textured sheets is amazing, with no release agent needed. Smooth sheets are a different story. Odds are the glue stick is part of a default package of accessories for all printers.
I wish i knew this before. I cleaned mine a lot with aceton...
Same. Going to pick up the satin sheet soon
Yeah, I have a question. When can I buy one 😣?
Prusa Shop. If you are logged in, you will find them under spare parts.
@@peterscheler it was hidden this whole time 🤣
Is it always there !?
@@bootsinshoes3198 It was available about a week ago.
Can't find it neither...
A good idea, but I was promised one of these when I bought the MK3 printer over a year and a half ago. There was a quality problem so my shipping was delayed. Even a year after it was available I have been unable to get one. I contacted Prusa support about six times and I still haven't received it. Prusa makes a great machine but somebody fell asleep in the order department.
I use water soluble glue on my textured sheet when I print TPU. No problems at all.
Which glue do you use?
I'm having trouble getting abs to stick with first layer calibrated. The bed is at 100* and nozzle is 255. I cleaned the bed with IPA although I believe it's only 75%. Any suggestions.
PLA (especially Silk) I've found like to peel. PETG sticks fine.
I'd first try making sure you got a proper height. The first layer calibration is good for know what's going to just stick but print like a .8mm square to really see how a first layer will stick.
Adjust the live Z until you get a good first layer. Small prints are also prone to getting dislodged.
Turn off the fan for a few extra layers as it could be the cooling
@
Prusa 3D by Josef Prusa 1:34 was that PLA or PETG? I cant get PLA to stick like that :(
That's Prusament PLA Vinalla White, just make sure your Live Adjust Z is low enough :)
- Mikolas
can i buy one for ender 3 please?
Hopefully this is the preamble to the pending availability of the mass produced powder coated sheets we've been told are coming!
I got an email 8 hours ago saying they were in stock. Ivé since ordered one.
I've NEVER had so many issues printing PLA with a printer before.
Why do you include a gluestick, a spool of PLA and this powder coated sheet if you're not supposed to use the gluestick?
and the PINDA's sensor doesn't work with glass.
Can I clean it with Ethanol?
Will i damage the bed if i use a stick spray (3dlac ) ?
I had to use 3DLac since nothing sticks to this sheet I got... with 3DLac... no issues anymore.
I can still see he print lines on the bottom of prints with this sheet,how do I fix this? Have adjusted the z axis many times .....
Richard Parker now sorted and working great ,the prints look fantastic
Can I clean it with 95% ethanol instead?
Would have been nice to know wich materials work best with this sheet. I like to use ASA but that can be a real adventure to get it off the PEI sheet. Maybe a nice vid in the future?
We're actually working on our own Prusament ASA, so ASA instructions are on the way :)
I print a lot of ASA on the textured sheets - it seems to be safest to use diluted PVA or better still Magigoo as a barrier - the ASA then sticks well, but not too well, reliably. Without the barrier some ASA sticks well and some sticks too well (I have one side of a textured sheet destroyed as evidence of that).
@@MarkWheadon how do you dilute pva, and will windex work?
@@mihneamanta8636 Not sure about Windex, but the PLA is simple enough - just add water. Something like two or three parts water to one part PVA, although the ratio isn't critical. I keep the diluted PVA in a screw-top jar.
I use glue stick even on PEI because it gives more consistent results. With some plastics it prevents sticking TOO well and tearing the PEI and for other plastics it helps them adhere better. I use Elmers washable glue stick on every surface type with all plastic types.
When can I buy a Prusa with a powder coated sheet?
shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/214-powder-coated-spring-steel-sheet.html?search_query=powder+coated+sheet&results=9
Should i buy this one or the smooth one? Which is the andvantage of this and which of the smoot one?
From what I read...this new sheet should allow us to better print with these materials:
PETG, CPE, FLEX/TPU, ABS.
The Smooth PEI sticker spring steel sheet are best for these materials: PLA, HIPS, PP, ASA, composite materials (metal/wood).
According to the Prusa Website. I haven't used the new one yet. But, it is on order. Good luck.
@@gibbygibstone thx
I bought my MK3 not long ago and they were not available then :(
I hope they can get production steady on these.
Ordered the status changed to "shipped" 2 hours later. I think they built up a small stock pile this time around. Hopefully they can continue to keep up with the demand for them
We re-stock the sheets pretty much everyday. You have to log-in to see the sheet on the e-shop ;)
@@Prusa3D I logged in but could not find it. It sure is not easy to order them but judging from the lack maybe that is for the better for now. Will learn to use the PEI sheet first.
Here's a direct link -
shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/214-powder-coated-spring-steel-sheet.html
About to buy my first Prusa. Should I order it with the powder coated sheet or the smooth one?
Liam Seesink order the powder coated. I did really enjoy it! Only use the alcohol spray and every print sticks perfectly!
It’s very easy and you don’t need any sort of adhesive stuff to print.
What is the purpose of the glue stick that you provide with the MK3S kit if, according to this video, I shouldn't use it on the PEI coated sheet?
The glue stick is a standard kit part, they throw it in whether you need it or not, like the spare parts, haribo, acupuncture needle etc. Also educes inventory complexity to just send everyone a glue stick.
If you have/will buy the smooth PEI sheet, it comes in handy for FLEX and other problematic materials. If you plan to use just the powder coated sheet, I guess you got a free glue stick for your other projects :)
Can you do a tutorial on how to order them when they are always out of stock
just ordered it ... it is in stock
So I must be crazy, But I've never used anything to get stuff to stick to the print bed with either the PEI or Powder coated sheets... Not saying my prints don't warp but a little brim goes a long way.
I usually use something (PVA or Magigoo) for the opposite reason - to stop some plastics (TPU on smooth and textured sheets, PETG on the smooth sheets) from sticking too well.
Brims are for chumps. I refuse to use a brim for anything but nylon since they aren't necessary for anything but nylon.
Never had to use a glue stick when using my powder-coated sheet. Even when brim is adviced, I had no issues with adhesion (of course this is not a guarantee). And objects are easily removable.
Are there any materials i shouldn't use
I have issues getting good adhesion when printing supports. I think it has to do with the gap between the lines. Adhesion for a bottom base appears to work fine.
I have had to bump the bed temp up to 70C for reliable adhesion with PLA on the textured sheet.
HackMonkey I set a higher Live Z for the plate and that helped with recent prints. A video from Prusa said to adjust until a light touch does not remove print from the sheet. Thanks for additional tip.
@@ericzwirnmann8151 Same here, I have to drop the Z about .25mm more for the textured sheets, verses the smooth sheets.
Might want to put the Do Not Use These... on a label when you ship the sheets. I didn’t realize that acetone was bad from the powder coated sheets. Will stop immediately.
What about flexibles? I have a TPU that ripped the smooth PEI right off the bed. I have to use a thick layer of glue stick.
You can print flex/TPU directly on the powder coated one, no glue stick needed.
@@Prusa3D You can, but it looks like you shouldn't unless you want to make Josef Prusa rich, by getting new surfaces every now and again.
People said PETG and other extra stocky materials stick so hard it rips sections off and we should use window cleaner or a glue stick. Is that true?
Yes it's true with the smooth sheet. I've ruined one sheet myself. However with textured sheet PETG seems to stick just fine. I only washed textured sheet with soapy water and rinsed it very well. After that prints stick quite nicely to this textured sheet. They actually release themselves after I've left it simply to cool down after print. I also use brim function with textured sheet and PETG. But yeah, be aware that you can ruin smooth sheet by directly printing PETG to it. Use glue which came with printer or some use hairspray (I haven't tested this myself).
Heyy how about that promise of a powder sheet? Still waiting going on a year.
Have one for sale
@@gavin7285 I bought from a vendor in Canada. I can buy a powder bed for $45+18 as I was denied the voucher.
Is the powder coating done on top of a spring steel sheet ??
Yes -- both sides. It's actually quite a bit thinner than the sticker-covered smooth sheets. You need to lower the Live Z by about 4.5 full turns when going -> textured sheet, and back up again if swapping back.
I'm surprised that you don't recommend using a release agent with PETG. I've already messed up my smooth sheet even using a glue stick. I've been afraid to print with PETG on my powder coated sheets.
PETG can be printed directly on the textured sheet without any release agent, that's what the textured sheet is best used for :) Just clean it with IPA.
We do recommend a different procedure with the smooth sheet, check the Handbook for more information.
@@Prusa3D Awesome thanks I'll have to give it a shot. The textured could be my goto surface then to PETG.
It is for us! :)
i de like to buy one of these sheet ... it is possible it's still not on sale ???
Andrea Stefanello I have one for sale
For PETG, do I still need Windex?
No. Prints remove easier than pei sheet.
@@gibbedyg9369 I did find it useful to Windex the nozzle pressure prep line on the front of the sheet. Sometimes that can adhere really strongly and it is too thin for the release. The rest of the sheet works fine with Windex or IPA.
For PETG the surface needs to be warm. I've had some issues with removing PETG at room temperature.
For PETG I can confirm: you need a barrier for the smooth sheets (PVA, Magigoo, whatever), but not for the textured ones. For the textured ones I find the print literally separates itself when the sheet is completely cold. Swapping between the two bed types is four and a half full turns of the knob in Live Adjust Z (downwards when going -> textured bed).
@@MarkWheadon i agree. i printed a bunch of parts in PETG at once and as it cooled you could hear the "pops" of them coming off the sheet themselves.
My value is -0.550 with the pei sheet. Is this normal?
Yes :)
Of what I print the first layer often becomes the top surface. Not sure I want a Moon crater surface though.
In reality that surface looks very similar to the texture to you get on vinyl. Or even the plastic surfaces on things like an Epson inkjet. It's smoother than it looks in photographs and is actually pretty pleasing as a top surface.
@@MarkWheadon Oh thanks for the information.
I've had a bad experience with PLA on the textured sheet. The corners always lift up on me and wreck my prints. Large surface area objects that should have no problem sticking. I don't print a lot so there's no way it's worn out already. I spent hours calibrating first layer, cleaned bed with IPA, following their help guides, still nothing. I wish I would have gone with the smooth sheet. I will try some of the suggestions in the comments. Stay away if you print PLA!
My smooth sheet is ruined!
After printing on the powder-coated sheet, I put the smooth one back on and I went to do a first layer calibration BUT the printer had stored the old z height
and STARTED at that level, this means that it scratched the zig zag pattern into my sheet as I tried to correct it back up!!!
Add an option to reset Z height or store 2 z heights for swapping sheets. I can't wait to spend more money on a new smooth sheet
Duh, use the power switch to prevent accidents XD
There is one now :D But ay, use your hea though...
so if you use z-layer calibration to because the sheet is thinner than the smooth pei, but what when you switch back to the smooth pei?, if you run z-layer calibration on that, I guess the nozzle will go too low?, so you need to adjust the z before running calibration?
I guess many wants to switch between the sheets, atleast I want to.
We're working on an addition to the pritners firmware, which would let you store separate Live Z adjust value for smooth and textured PEI sheet.
@@Prusa3D wow, that will be awesome!
@@Prusa3D That would be fantastic just for switching between PLA and PETG. PETG seems to work better drizzling it on, rather than mashing it down. It gets a bit old having to consult my z adjust figures per material and doing a live z adjust.
@@Prusa3D will it be only for two sheets, or can it hold info for multiple?, I have a totally different sheet that I'm going to use for printing PC, this one that is fairly thick: www.etsy.com/no-en/listing/669225246/phenolic-le-generic-garolite-original?ref=shop_home_active_13&crt=1
The pc spring steel plate that came with my ender 3 v2 neo is too good at its job. Every part feels like it's super glued to the bed. Removing thin flexible parts is a nightmare. I feel like I'm going to bend the spatula that came with my printer every time I have to remove a part. I might try printing with the smooth steel side of the plate for 💩 and 😁.
Here's a question:
Can I buy one without having a Prusa Printer?
I wish
Not from Prusa. But there are 3rd parties producing PEI powder coated sheets for various machines.
Does this mean I can order just a sheet now?
Should be able to I just did
Some people can, others cannot, it's not clear what the criteria is for being able to order, so just go to the Eshop, make sure you are logged in and see if it is available to you, if it is then good, if not you can try and speak with Prusa via the 'chat' function, but that can often be a waste of time, like speaking to a weird robot through a broken translation machine, lol, so just check again in a few weeks/months, I'm hoping these sheets will eventually be made available to everyone.
They are available to everyone who ordered a printer, and they're in stock now ;)
shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/214-powder-coated-spring-steel-sheet.html
I really really love my powdered coated sheet. Works so much better than the smooth for me.
why
love the finish i get, but the adhesion is not the greatest. Blue tape works better in that department for me.
What is the advantage of a Powder Coated Sheet versus the Smooth Sided PEI sheet ?
Some materials stick better to the Smooth sheet, some to the powder coated one. And some stick too well, so you might need a seperating agent. We have a table, which gives a great overview of which sheet to use with what material:
help.prusa3d.com/en/materials
There's also an aesthetic difference, the powder coated one imprints its texture to the bottom of the prints. Which can look quite nice, we use it for our printed parts on our printers. -Mikolas
So no glue stick? Regardless of the used material? Even for TPU?
Hello, you don't need to use a glue stick. Not even for TPU.
@@Prusa3D Impressive!
@@Prusa3D Still haven't had the confidence to try that. Keep chickening out and using Magigoo :)
Hi, can you use normal ethanol ?
You should drink it instead
I use a IPA/ethanol mix. Ethanol cuts grease better than IPA since ethanol is a universal solvent whereas IPA is a non-polar solvent; Hence less reason to ever need acetone on the smooth PEI and will not do any damage to the sheet. The IPA helps carry away oils released by the ethanol.
No matter how I set the z, and I've cleaned my sheet with IPA many times, tried soap and water as well. Nothing will confidently stick to the powder-coated sheet.
Set your Z lower. Share your experience with the community we'll help ya
@@C4mpblor I set my z low/higher, so low that the first layer would bubble up because it was squished to much. PLA would not confidently stick to the powder coated sheet. I tried multiple brands of pla, and doing all sorts of calibrations. I ended up ordering a smooth PEI and that holds way better.
@@scott4826 You may not have set it low enough? With the Z height set up nicely for the smooth sheet, you need to wind it down a full 4.5 full turns to get to approx the right height for the textured sheets.
I have to drop my Z about .2mm from the stickered sheet, when switching to the textured sheet. I also have to bump the bed temp up to about 70C for PLA to reliably adhere to the textured sheet.
@@HackMonkey I started with the textured sheet, then had so much difficulty I ordered the smooth PEI. I upgraded my machine from the mk2s to the mk2.5. Its not like I came at this blind, I know how to setup my first layer. Had my mk2s for over a year. Nothing I tried, live z adjustments, cleaning or different brands of pla. Nothing I did would stick confidently to the textured sheet.
I think I had mine set too high in first layer cal
I've just purchased this textured sheet. nothing sticks based on your recommendation.
Make sure your Live Adjust Z is low enough and that you've cleaned it with 90% IPA:
help.prusa3d.com/en/article/flexible-steel-sheets_2195
Contact our 24/7 live chat support at shop.prusa3d.com if you'll still have problems with the adhesion ;)
I had the same problmes with PLA an PETG and switching from a cheaper IPA to a higher quality and a very good rub with this IPA made the sheet awesome again.
I got the Woldoclean 99,1% IPA as I saw it on CNC kitchen in a video.
How do you know whether to use the Powder Coated Sheet, or the Smooth Sheet?
You can use both of them for printing with pretty much any type of material if cleaned properly and if the Live-Z is set right, however, there are certain benefits in using one sheet or the other for certain materials/scenarios.
TLDR: Smooth is the best for PLA, Powder-coated is best for PETG
There is extensive info about the sheets in our Handbook:
cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3s_en.pdf
-Mikolas
I need your file for calibration
LCD Menu - Calibration - First layer calibration.
Or you can download it here - github.com/prusa3d/Prusa3D-Sample-Objects/blob/master/MK2/V2Calibration.gcode
Great stuff
And expensive stuff
@@MichelBricole How expensive?
Why not log in to the prusa shop and see for yourself? You did buy an original prusa printer, right?
@@Nero_XY 45€
@@sirtexy4554 No I didn´t. I´m still waiting to directly buy an MK3S with the textured sheet ;)
Mk4 - Do you need to tell the slicer anything?
Nope
Failed print once in a while.
I love prusa printers. However, a lot of people have adhesion problem on powder coat sheet. www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/bm9f7x/cant_keep_prints_sticking_on_powder_coated_sheets/
1. For small footprint object, my print failed 100% without brim. I hate to clean brim, making the edge sharp.
2. For large footprint object, my print failed 20% without brim, which makes it scary to leave it print.
Glue stick gives me a good sleep.
One thing I do find is that, my powder coat sheet is possibly not flat anymore after a year, because during first layer calibration, the step wise calibration line shows different shape from left to right. Anyone can help?
What percentage of IPA?
90%+ ideally
so basically same that steel sheet but no acetone
The biggest question is can we buy them yet?? Waiting since i got my printer 8 months ago😂
You can, it's in stock right now and we re-stock them everyday :) But you have to login to see the sheet in the eshop.
shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/214-powder-coated-spring-steel-sheet.html