I noticed it making that noise before you even mentioned it. I'm wondering if you figured out the cause? Did you end up getting a different type of bulb to fix it? I have a few cheap lamps around the house that generally make noises like that when they are turned off and it drives me crazy!
You mentioned there was a previous video in which you removed the old touch sensor without replacing it. Mind sharing the link to that? I'd like to know how to convert a touch lamp to regular lamp. 🙂
I had a look but also couldn't not find it, there are way too many videos 😂 The basics of it are you wire the fitting directly to a corded mains plug. If you unscrew the fitting you should be able to see the terminals you have to attach to
diimmers work by sending pulses of electricity to the light. This is why you hear a vibration when using a dimmer with a standard bulb. The electrical pulses shake the filament causing it to vibrate. It might be possible the dimmer you bought is not completely turning off the light. BTW if you want vibration free lights with a dimmer, buy an industrial strength lightbulb, which is made with a much sturdier filament, though much more costly, yet will last longer and noise free with use of a dimmer.
I will see if I can find a better bulb, but I guess I am stuck by the physical dimensions of the shade. I might run a meter through the bulb connections while the lamp is off to see if its constantly at 240v, I suspect it might be.
I guess the screw in inserts between the lamp and bulb are gone from production. Mt old one from 1988 still works fine. Recent purchases around 2002 worked. Until a bulb arced when it finally died, taking the insert with it. I killed the last one screwing it in to a hot socket. The arc from screwing in the bulb killed it. The bulb was fine. The problem with dimmers on LEDs, LEDs don't have enough load, wattage. Many old dimmers from incandescent era need 25+ watts. It is not labed for a minimum. Only maximums were an issue then with an old dimmer you need an old style bulb to add load to the minimum. Then voila, no flutter. I listen to AM radio often. Dimmers put out terrible RF noise.
It does usually although if it is double insulated to ensure that no live conductors can touch the case in the event of the fault. This can be achieved but using heat shrink on top of the existing wire insulation and on top of the wire nuts/crimps
Hi. Very helpful video but I couldn't make out the colours of your wires. If I've just got straightforward 2 core brown (L) and blue (N) from the lamp and the mains can you tell me which needs to be connected to the corresponding black, white and red from the module, assuming that the yellow goes to the base. I've actually got the exact same module and the light works fine when I connect blue/blue and brown/brown but when the module is introduced it doesn't seem to work. I'm sure I'm just switching a wire somewhere but I can't figure out which one! Thanks for your help.
Hey guy! At 1:45 you're twisting the wires in the wrong direction! You should always twist the wires in a clockwise direction (as seen from the end of the wire) if you're going to cap them with twist-on wire connectors, since those get tightened in a clockwise direction, the same way as screws. Twisting the wires counterclockwise would give you a looser fit in the connectors, which would NOT be a good idea. Ah... after watching the entire video I see that this guy is taking the extra step of soldering (or, as he says it, SAULL-dering, ha!) the wires together and insulating them with heat-shrink tubing instead of wire connectors. So in this case, it doesn't really matter which way you twist the wires. But what I said previously still applies if you're planning on using wire connectors.
Hi there - I have been dabbling in the Nomad-life and want to be ready to tackle the basics. I have never seen the shrink stuff - don't have a solder gun (though I used to solder a lot for work in my late teens). Could you/ Would you recommend components for a travel repair kit? Pretty please
I recommend a ts-100 soldering iron, xuron side cutters, reel of leaded solder, good tweezers, roll of insulating tape, electricians side cutters, electricians screwdriver and a pocket multi meter
I have a custom Bare metal base, and I’m thinking of painting it with hammered finish spray paint. Probably 2 coats, and maybe one clear coat. Dose anyone know if the 3 way dimmer will still operate with the base Being painted? Or will this make it, non-conducive to human touch?
They are not popular at all. Generally our ring electrical setup has connections in all the terminating equipment so you don't usually have hidden connections etc. So the answer is yesish they can be obtained but no, because no electrician would use them
Odd how the same industry can be so different in different locations. I spent a military career as a micro-miniature repair tech working with high end solder stations with much of the work being done through microscopes, but I can't imagine having to solder every electrical connection in a commercial or residential environment
Most things use screw terminals, just not wire nuts. The closest thing we have are terminal strips: www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCON15.html?source=adwords&ad_position=1o4&ad_id=45425533757&placement=&kw=&network=g&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=TLCON15&product_partition_id=174056230867&test=finalurl_v2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy_r_vZLA3AIVxrHtCh2OYg04EAQYBCABEgLlQPD_BwE
@@backofficeshow These things are allowed in the UK now, they're awesome, easier to fit and much smaller than choc blocks, so they fit in back-boxes more easily. www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-in-sure-3-port-push-in-wire-connectors-pack-of-100/56118
All I need is knowing which wire goes to which wire. My incoming wires are both clear and the outgoing are both white. The new switch is identical to yours. The switch that was gone bad was different than the new one, which confounded the idea of just copying things. Got no instructions with the thing....but can't complain because the price can't be beat.
I'm in the USA. My new switch has four wires from left to right...a red, a white -a (center looped yellow) and a black. The lamp wires are two clear from the wall plug and two white to the bulb socket. The yellow one is the only one that is a no brainer. The others are impossible to figure out.
I think this vid is brilliant because it shows us that a lamp like this can be fixed. However, I feel that it is not really a tutorial and-while understand the spirit of the procedure-I'd feel uncomfy about doing this...my research continues =P
Okay you absolutely inspired me. I am in Canada, so no Gift Geeks here. I went online to AliExpress and it was gonna be too long to wait for the part w/o paying an arm & leg. The local Amazon, carries it, but all of them had poor reviews. Luckily, my local Depot had the piece. I installed new units in 2 lamps w/o any problems. Thanks a ton for the vid and the moral support =)
Congrads on successful repair. Even tho it would have been nice to find out why it is vibrating! I know you said filament.... Wait just a dang minute! Filament bulb in your house? Blasphemy!
+I_will_get_you There I'm suspecting these cheap modules could be more optimised for LED now 😂 if i recall the problem was i couldn't find a small enough led lamp to fit in the tulip shade.
One caveat, you need to make sure the LED bulbs are suitable for use with dimmers, some aren't. I do like my LED bulbs now though. And yes, I heard the noise as soon as you plugged in. I even replayed the video to confirm what I had heard, then you mentioned it too.
+MrPGT9999 I decided that the noise was probably tolerable in the lounge, but would drive you nuts in the bedroom 😁 is difficult to know how much time and effort to spend on something. I guess if i get sent another touch module i will have another go.
sounds like the bloody thing is going to bloody shock you . you twist the bloody wires backwards . do you have bloody wire nuts in uk ? or only boody heat shrink ;- )
+The Backoffice Only joking mate. I pointed you in the direction of that little thing, over on Twitter. Not long after the last lamp video went up. I've never actually used one myself. Shame about the buzz though.
I noticed it making that noise before you even mentioned it. I'm wondering if you figured out the cause? Did you end up getting a different type of bulb to fix it? I have a few cheap lamps around the house that generally make noises like that when they are turned off and it drives me crazy!
You mentioned there was a previous video in which you removed the old touch sensor without replacing it. Mind sharing the link to that? I'd like to know how to convert a touch lamp to regular lamp. 🙂
I had a look but also couldn't not find it, there are way too many videos 😂
The basics of it are you wire the fitting directly to a corded mains plug. If you unscrew the fitting you should be able to see the terminals you have to attach to
Which colour wire does the white wire connect too (blue or brown)?
diimmers work by sending pulses of electricity to the light. This is why you hear a vibration when using a dimmer with a standard bulb. The electrical pulses shake the filament causing it to vibrate. It might be possible the dimmer you bought is not completely turning off the light. BTW if you want vibration free lights with a dimmer, buy an industrial strength lightbulb, which is made with a much sturdier filament, though much more costly, yet will last longer and noise free with use of a dimmer.
I will see if I can find a better bulb, but I guess I am stuck by the physical dimensions of the shade. I might run a meter through the bulb connections while the lamp is off to see if its constantly at 240v, I suspect it might be.
Wasn't it making noise when it was plugged in but the bulb wasn't powered
It doesn't work with LEDs bulbs right?
I guess the screw in inserts between the lamp and bulb are gone from production. Mt old one from 1988 still works fine. Recent purchases around 2002 worked. Until a bulb arced when it finally died, taking the insert with it.
I killed the last one screwing it in to a hot socket. The arc from screwing in the bulb killed it. The bulb was fine.
The problem with dimmers on LEDs, LEDs don't have enough load, wattage. Many old dimmers from incandescent era need 25+ watts. It is not labed for a minimum. Only maximums were an issue then with an old dimmer you need an old style bulb to add load to the minimum. Then voila, no flutter. I listen to AM radio often. Dimmers put out terrible RF noise.
Hi. Does a metal lamp not need to be earthed to be safe?
+PCTS99 generally yes, but in this case I suspect it would prevent the touch capability
ive seen a video of these working in outer space its in a movie call forbidden planet
It does usually although if it is double insulated to ensure that no live conductors can touch the case in the event of the fault. This can be achieved but using heat shrink on top of the existing wire insulation and on top of the wire nuts/crimps
Hi. Very helpful video but I couldn't make out the colours of your wires. If I've just got straightforward 2 core brown (L) and blue (N) from the lamp and the mains can you tell me which needs to be connected to the corresponding black, white and red from the module, assuming that the yellow goes to the base. I've actually got the exact same module and the light works fine when I connect blue/blue and brown/brown but when the module is introduced it doesn't seem to work. I'm sure I'm just switching a wire somewhere but I can't figure out which one! Thanks for your help.
According to th-cam.com/video/v8dvA0iS5Lc/w-d-xo.htmlm26s white, black, red, and yellow are respectively connected to light, blue, brown, and metal.
Hey guy! At 1:45 you're twisting the wires in the wrong direction! You should always twist the wires in a clockwise direction (as seen from the end of the wire) if you're going to cap them with twist-on wire connectors, since those get tightened in a clockwise direction, the same way as screws. Twisting the wires counterclockwise would give you a looser fit in the connectors, which would NOT be a good idea.
Ah... after watching the entire video I see that this guy is taking the extra step of soldering (or, as he says it, SAULL-dering, ha!) the wires together and insulating them with heat-shrink tubing instead of wire connectors. So in this case, it doesn't really matter which way you twist the wires. But what I said previously still applies if you're planning on using wire connectors.
Hi there - I have been dabbling in the Nomad-life and want to be ready to tackle the basics. I have never seen the shrink stuff - don't have a solder gun (though I used to solder a lot for work in my late teens). Could you/ Would you recommend components for a travel repair kit? Pretty please
I recommend a ts-100 soldering iron, xuron side cutters, reel of leaded solder, good tweezers, roll of insulating tape, electricians side cutters, electricians screwdriver and a pocket multi meter
Might be a silly question but can this work with wood instead of plastic or metal ?
Only metal I'm afraid, it relies on the conductivity
I have a custom Bare metal base, and I’m thinking of painting it with hammered finish spray paint. Probably 2 coats, and maybe one clear coat. Dose anyone know if the 3 way dimmer will still operate with the base Being painted? Or will this make it, non-conducive to human touch?
Perhaps you can test it first by putting some insulation tape on the base and seeing if it still works.
@@backofficeshow ill give that a try!
thanks for the suggestion!
So did you paint it and did the touch feature still work? I'm thinking of doing the same exact thing but don't want to ruin my lamp.
Do you not have wire nuts in the UK?
They are not popular at all. Generally our ring electrical setup has connections in all the terminating equipment so you don't usually have hidden connections etc. So the answer is yesish they can be obtained but no, because no electrician would use them
Odd how the same industry can be so different in different locations. I spent a military career as a micro-miniature repair tech working with high end solder stations with much of the work being done through microscopes, but I can't imagine having to solder every electrical connection in a commercial or residential environment
Most things use screw terminals, just not wire nuts. The closest thing we have are terminal strips: www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCON15.html?source=adwords&ad_position=1o4&ad_id=45425533757&placement=&kw=&network=g&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=TLCON15&product_partition_id=174056230867&test=finalurl_v2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy_r_vZLA3AIVxrHtCh2OYg04EAQYBCABEgLlQPD_BwE
@@backofficeshow These things are allowed in the UK now, they're awesome, easier to fit and much smaller than choc blocks, so they fit in back-boxes more easily. www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-in-sure-3-port-push-in-wire-connectors-pack-of-100/56118
I'm all about the Wago now 😂
But a hundred of those for a tenner is a bargain
You didn’t put a link for Canada 🇨🇦 😭
My bad, I just looked on Amazon Canada and couldn't find one 😂
does anybody knows if i can adapt this to control my main room light? or it if has any issues with the voltage or something and might burn it?
As long as the wattage is equal it should be ok
backofficeshow hi, how do i know if the wattage is the same? Im really bad at electric subjects.
It will say on the module it's maximum wattage. Also if you are bad at electrical things you may want to hire a professional?
@@backofficeshow Definately. Thanks!
Very close to your fingers at one point with the soldering iron :D
That noise is like a 50hz buzz you get. Possibly something interfering with the device. I have the same issue with my turntable :)
+treguard1982 if you don't get burnt you sent trying hard enough 😂👍
+treguard1982 it's like the bulb itself is vibrating
A burn from a soldering iron I imagine is as painful as childbirth :D
+treguard1982 only if you manage to get your face. Generally its pretty manageable, it's only a small bite
This is more installation , or conversion than repair.
I like donuts.
All I need is knowing which wire goes to which wire. My incoming wires are both clear and the outgoing are both white. The new switch is identical to yours. The switch that was gone bad was different than the new one, which confounded the idea of just copying things. Got no instructions with the thing....but can't complain because the price can't be beat.
If it helps, the power from the wall in the UK are the blue and brown wires
I'm in the USA. My new switch has four wires from left to right...a red, a white -a (center looped yellow) and a black. The lamp wires are two clear from the wall plug and two white to the bulb socket. The yellow one is the only one that is a no brainer. The others are impossible to figure out.
We have someone in the discord who might be able to help, he is in the USA
mine just doesn't turn on it dropped and broke
Same here..i am looking for solution but cant solve it ... Might just buy a new lamp... :(
@@dj-yv7oi I wish I still had mine
I think this vid is brilliant because it shows us that a lamp like this can be fixed. However, I feel that it is not really a tutorial and-while understand the spirit of the procedure-I'd feel uncomfy about doing this...my research continues =P
+Estio come on, do it, do it! 😁 But be careful 👍
Okay you absolutely inspired me. I am in Canada, so no Gift Geeks here. I went online to AliExpress and it was gonna be too long to wait for the part w/o paying an arm & leg. The local Amazon, carries it, but all of them had poor reviews. Luckily, my local Depot had the piece. I installed new units in 2 lamps w/o any problems. Thanks a ton for the vid and the moral support =)
+Estio That's great news! Glad it worked out, fantastic!
Nice job. I just wired a plug to mine but might do this. The dodgy audio I guess is down to those home made mica in last weeks videos?? ;-)
+Meth Methanoid since resolved, but very annoying occurrence!
Congrads on successful repair. Even tho it would have been nice to find out why it is vibrating! I know you said filament.... Wait just a dang minute! Filament bulb in your house? Blasphemy!
+I_will_get_you There I'm suspecting these cheap modules could be more optimised for LED now 😂 if i recall the problem was i couldn't find a small enough led lamp to fit in the tulip shade.
One caveat, you need to make sure the LED bulbs are suitable for use with dimmers, some aren't. I do like my LED bulbs now though. And yes, I heard the noise as soon as you plugged in. I even replayed the video to confirm what I had heard, then you mentioned it too.
+MrPGT9999 I decided that the noise was probably tolerable in the lounge, but would drive you nuts in the bedroom 😁 is difficult to know how much time and effort to spend on something. I guess if i get sent another touch module i will have another go.
sounds like the bloody thing is going to bloody shock you . you twist the bloody wires backwards . do you have bloody wire nuts in uk ? or only boody heat shrink ;- )
+Larry L we don't use wire nuts in the UK in general
Idiot. If heat shrink is used, the way the wires are twisted makes no difference. Bloody stupid.
hahaha
god: I don't trust myself
bum: trust me till the very end
hahaha
Thought you shit yourself, the way you were grunting there.... teasing bro.
+ned cramdit who says I didn't 😂
You know they make proper electrician tools to make this easier???
Маладэць! )
easy fix
Not even a name drop? Geez! ☹
😆
+FairFight14 sorry what did i miss? Did I forget to credit someone again?!
+The Backoffice Only joking mate. I pointed you in the direction of that little thing, over on Twitter. Not long after the last lamp video went up. I've never actually used one myself. Shame about the buzz though.
I will ensure I do not make the same mistake again :)
FairFight14 ;+--; my.
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