I picked up one of the Wing Ding power feeds for my Y axis half a year ago and it's still chugging along. I didn't have the speed limitation issue on mine. I'm pretty sure your min/max Potentiometers on the speed control board are mis-adjusted. That's an easy fix you can try. Thanks for the side by side.
Saw your question about Dale returning to YT; did you ever hear anything about his sudden, unexplained departure? At the time he suddenly left, the 1st thought is Covid; it sure eff'd my life up, I got it & it caused me to develop cancer. Yeah, that's a thing nobody is talking about. Anyway, I saw this old vid in my feed & recalled how much I like his videos. I was one of the many who, several years ago, suddenly had subs dumped. It was while I was real sick & off YT. It took me a while to realize some of my subs were missing, then someone told about the sub dumping incident. Was hoping you'd learned something about Dale. GeoD
Nice video Dale! You inspired me to go out in my shop and resurrect my 6F power feed. The handle was gone, the limit switches were gone, and all the wires were cut at one point. After some mock up parts, trial, error, and a few extra relays, it's alive. That thing can push me across the floor if I try to oppose it. Now that's impressive!
EXCELLENT VIDEO! Not only because it answers a question about power feeds that I have now, your delivery is perfect. No superfluous BS. SOOO many of these videos on YT are so awful I just cant watch them even tho I need their information! You got right to the point, made quality evaluations and gave a complete, concise summation. THANK YOU ( I AM subscribed!)
My Millrite MVN came with a broken Servo in a box. I was planning to buy one of those cheep ones when a buddy stopped by the shop, saw the broken Servo, and offered to take it home and fix it. About a week later and $35 in parts, and the Servo is running lie a champ. Good friends are priceless..
I have one of the very first Servos made, given to my dad in the 1970s by his friend, the inventor and founder of Servo Products. In fact, it was the only product he had at the time so it doesn’t have a number, but it’s the 140, and there’s no on off switch, and he made them at his home shop so the tag actually says “Servo Products, Altadena California” It’s a residential city in north Los Angeles County where he lived. Still works great!
Thanks for doing this comparison, Dale. I FINALLY found a Bridgeport clone I could afford that wasn't beaten up, and am now in the process of doing little fixes and upgrades to it over time. A power feed would be nice at some point but it appears that going too cheap has its drawbacks in power feeds, much like most everything else in the realm of tooling.
Gday Dale, thanks for taking the time to do the testing, the Cincinnati I just picked up is all geared through the knee, I’ve never had power feed before up I can see I’m going to really enjoy it. The rapid is extremely fast, I must check it over 10 seconds and see what it comes in at, thanks again and take care
Boy that first one is a real wing dinger! Seriously I have one of those on my mill identical to the one that you reviewed and I’ve been very happy with it with the exception of the speed pot. The speed off has a dead spots down on low speeds I think I need to take it apart and replace it with a good potentiometer.
I've had good luck with the al500p. I did one on my z and y axis since my x still has the servo. Adding power feed to the knee has just been an amazing improvement. I got so tired of cranking it up and down for tool changes. The shaft adapter is garbage, I ended up machining a whole new shaft for my Z axis with the differences integrated. But worth the time and effort.
Hi Dale! Started following you after meeting at the bash. It was nice meeting you. I'm new to all this but I'm excited to learn something so fun and interesting. Hope you start putting up more videos 😊
I have an older Jet 9x49 that came with a factory X-feed. I got really tired of cranking the Z up & down. Tried a drill, didn't like it. I supplied the make & model of the mill to the feed seller. When I went to install it the new shaft had different threads! Dealer didn't have the correct one so I made one. My X has limit switches that I've never installed, I should do that. I did install the Z limit switches. I like the round handle on the X and have decided to modify the Z to take one that turns all the time. Getting the crank to engage is a PIA. Will just put a small nob on the wheel. So I can let it be engaged full time.
I have an AL 500 on my Grizzly mill and have been through 2 armatures and one field coil, I run it at slow speed often. The last time I replaced the armature I found that the plastic cover on the top of the armature did not have the vent holes open. Drilled them out and over 2 years later it is chugging along. Also notice that after repeated cycles the speed knob changes position to a faster speed.
Hey Dale, I second the request for a video about your "pinging" the table. My 42" is also off by by 7-8 thousand. I am scared to scrape it that much as I don't have the hardware to do so properly. But that pinging thing I can do!
Thanks for the info on dro! They are extensive and I don't think I want to make a mistake so I looking around and getting advice hopping to get the right one. Thanks again. Bill
I bought a Grizzly mill almost 19 years ago. It’s the biggest mill/drill they had as I needed if right away, and my riggers said that they would have to take the Bridgeport apart to get it in, and I didn’t have time for that. I figured I would replace mine when I had the time, but I never did. I bought the table drive, which is horizontal. I use this a lot. The only problem I had with the drive occurred about five, six years ago. My error! The main, plastic gear at the end of the drive broke teeth-as it should have. Grizzly got me a new gear in three days. Didn’t cost much. Other than that, no problems with it.
A good review. Without sponsors, or Patreon, most home shops will go with the most inexpensive. Like handheld grinders. I have 6 HF handheld grinders with different wheels and brushes mounted on them. For all 6, I have less than $70 invest as I buy them on sale. One 4.5" Metabo can cost $125, unless you catch it on sale. I can wear out 10 of the HF and still not pay for a Metabo.
mature I agree, I have the same set up with 5 harbor freight grinders each with a different tool(wire cup ,wire braided wheel, cut off wheel, grinding wheel,, and sanding disk, etc. ) oh and I also have one cordless milwalk. for when im on the move. all 5 corded grinders I got on sale for like 10 bucks each from HF cant beat that and they run well
We needed this video. I should have kept the Servo. The base was missing! I thought it was broken. I bought the Precision Mathews. Works great = 3 years now.
Will any of these aftermarket feeds replace a 6f Bridgeport x axis feed? It seems the x axis screw is different between a manual feed and a Bridgeport power feed. Thanks
Finally, another video! This review/test was just what I needed. The spec is 0-200 RPM but I knew that couldn't be true. I need 0.5 in/min on a horizontal mill. I think I can get away with the 0.9 feed that you measured.
Great video Dale!!! I recently bought a used mill that had a nice older X power feed but am considering additional power feeds for X&Z. After purchasing a 4 axis DRO and a riser block additional powerfeeds wont fit in the budget for a few more months!!!
This video was just in time I need a new power feed for my jet mill been looking for a while trying to decide which one I going to by. Look like a servo 140 or 150.
Could you check top of the table for flatness? I think dovetail could just wear out in the middle, where it is used the most. It is hard to imagine that so thick pice of cast iron bends... Great video btw
You are correct he isn't I've had 4 Bridgeport the tables do not sag checked mine with a Precision Starrett straight edge top and bottom they wear out in the middle I have the Bridgeport power feed on a 48 inch table not a 49 inch table Bridgeport table 32, 36, 42, 48 are the correct table sizes for American made Bridgeport and the confusion somebody must have a Chinese Bridgeport if it has 49 inch table
@@plymouth-hl20ton37 T'was my feeling too - lack of sufficient lubrication on the ways. Could also argue user error - always putting things on to machine in the middle of the table - use the ends - wear them a bit too!
Cast iron does bend! I bought a new 6" PMatic jointer a long time ago. The fence had a serious curve. I called their (then) US service and got connected to a tech. He told me to put a 4x4 near each end, curve up, stand in the middle and bounce, slightly harder each time until I felt it give. At some point there was an obvious sudden movement. Checked and the fence was back to straight. Who'd a thunk? It has to do with stresses that occur while cooling. There are ways to remove or reduce those stresses before grinding but it takes time & effort that was in short supply @ PowerMatic and still is in almost all cheap cast machine parts. 30 years ago I got a very old Crescent 16" jointer for $100. DMD, rusty. I took the tables and fence to a grinding service and had them Blanchard ground. I used a precision straight edge to set the machine up and every thing was dead on. Last year I did the check again. The tables had sagged. Each table is supported at 4 places by wedge blocks so flatness can't be controlled but twist can be as well as overall parallelism to the head reference. The support points are not at the magic hit or miss quarter points but not off by terribly far. Yet there is significant sag in what are quite massive cast iron parts. I put my precision level on and it could detect the wave shape. I don't generally get that thing out except to set up CNC machines. It can drive you crazy.
Even if you put a $750 drive on X, Y, and Z you'd be pretty close. The only thing that doesn't factor in is a ball screw conversion, which will set you back a bit more.
@@petergamache5368 using all Chinesium equipment should be able to get the parts under 1000 for one axis, I'm not sure if the rolled ballscrews are good enough though. Most of them don't have an anti-backlash nut at least so there will be like 2 thou backlash
If you go with steppers; you can absolutely go CNC for much less than $1000 USD. Ballscrews will bring that price up quite a bit; though... I’d probably figure $1200 for the whole thing. This is with Chinese parts; Taiwanese, US, or EU parts will be more, of course. There is a version of GRBL that runs on an Arduino Mega and common, cheap 3D printer UI hardware (RAMPS + a character LCD board + keypad) so that you don’t even need a PC on the mill. Some soldering will be required to adapt the RAMPS board to the external stepper drivers.
Hey Dale, as I do my new year's purge of channels I subscribe to, but no longer watch, I can't seem to unsub yours in hopes that you will be creating more content soon. Hope you're well and looking forward to your return.
So awesome! I have had a shars one and cheap(er) Chinese import in my ebay cart for some time and just didn’t want to pull the plug quite yet. I’ve been searching around for a used servo, but haven’t found one that is calling my name. This video definitely helped to make a decision. Thank you, keep the awesome videos coming!
Good episode Darryl! Kinda like tthe project farm channel but for machinists. Good idea. Very useful, as i am looking at this right now. Also looking at building a stepper motor set up for doing this.
Mr. Dale, I have been checking your channel regularly ( I have subscribed already), I hope all is well and I am looking forward to new content from you. Thanks! Steve
A $100ish dollar remote power feed unit NEW, and you bemoan it! ;) The best option(IMHO as an ex-machine tool/fitter turner) is to buy a vertical milling machine rather than a turret mill, as they generally have integrated power feeds(and rapids). Turret mills are great machines in theory, but not in real life scenarios as they are relatively slow(work cycles), lacking in rigidity(and require regular tramelling). Also, operators are generally loathed to change any of the axis' from perpendicular - its human nature! Turret mills are also significantly higher in price when compared to vertical mills, and more so to universal/horizontal mills with swivelling vertical head attachments, let alone the cost of adding aftermarket power feeds. An anology of the issues with Turret mills, is that they are like Trikes(three wheeled motorcycles), both appearing to be great ideas, but both ultimately being cursed by their impractical compromises. Keep safe and well.
Great video with good info, looking for a power feed at the moment so this has been a big help, do you happen to have the dimensions of the extension shaft as im thinking of making my own.
I got a Bridgeport power feeder, thing I don't like is have to cut lead screw to install. Any thoughts on that? Got a good deal on it. Seem to not find a screw for it.
After the 3rd armature died on my align, I decided to replace it with a wing ding on my 6 by 26 knee mill. I was not a direct replacement but close enough. The bolt hole pattern was different enough that I could only use one of the two bolts to hold it to the mill (yes I was too lazy to mill new holes) and I needed to cut the limit switch bracket to fit my mill (tried using the align bracket but the hole pattern for the limit switch boxes are different) $149 from Walmart. We'll see how long it takes for me to fry this one.
An update on my al500p. Fried my 3rd armature yesterday. Long slow pulls seems to do it in. Cutting a .025 " slot in a 10 inch long part 20 passes and then it blew my circuit breaker and stopped. Don't know how this company controls the speed but if it is via dc voltage reduction, slow speeds means low voltage and high current. I GUESS that is what does the armature in. Anyone out there with similar experiences ? My next one will be the cheapest as its price is about the same as an armature from Align.
Rapid traverse - it seems the standard unit is inches per minute rather than 10 seconds - so we have to multiply your numbers by 6 to compare. Just a quick Google and I found proper machines achieving 20 "/10s - so that's twice your best - and one doing 100 inches per 10 secs - so understandably, that's a CNC !
i'd buy the cheap ones, replace internal motor with a cnc controlled motor, instant cnc converstion with instant response and no windup like those crappy motors inside do
Useful info. Can I ask for some advice? I recently acquired a Bridgeport series 1 Boss CNBC mill (circadian early 80’s I think). It is missing all of the control parts. The motors are there but the rest I will have to acquire and assemble. I could use some help. I’m told by the PO that I need a breakout board and a a video. I also need to clean it and lube it and reassemble. I’d appreciate any advice from you or viewers, THANKS.
I wish I new more about cnc so I could help you. Im planing on doing a video on how to clean and recondition a mill tho. I just not sure when ill get to it😔
I can say from experiences with other early 80's era controls, the solid state boards are either the Gold or the Skunk of the whole system. It can take a good tech several Billable hours to follow the logic and test for a rotten component that prevents the whole system from working.
Phillip B. Thanks, I may take you up on that. First goal is to figure out for sure what I have. Number on knee is CNC 1033, head is 2J - 72065 C. Hard to read head number.
@@ElixirCNC Don't know the answer to that yet. The axis motors appear to be original equipment as far as I know. Ball screws have already been installed. The PO tells me I need a vfd and a break out board and an old computer. I have the computer, need the rest.
those cheap power feeds that are for the Y and Z axis are pretty expensive, i just made a few bushes and fixed the cheap wen deng x axis feed to all my axis for very little money and a little time, if one ever fails i have a spare on the shelf to swap it out and straight back to work. 3 years in and still going good. even the Z !!
I picked up one of the Wing Ding power feeds for my Y axis half a year ago and it's still chugging along. I didn't have the speed limitation issue on mine. I'm pretty sure your min/max Potentiometers on the speed control board are mis-adjusted. That's an easy fix you can try. Thanks for the side by side.
Right on
@@BuildSomthingCool Are you going to be doing more videos in 2021?
@@BuildSomthingCool Hey!Are you still making videos?Thanks!!!
Well fell in to the channel to late it looks like thank you for the great content
Will you be returning to TH-cam anytime soon? You are one of my favorites and I miss your content.
Saw your question about Dale returning to YT; did you ever hear anything about his sudden, unexplained departure?
At the time he suddenly left, the 1st thought is Covid; it sure eff'd my life up, I got it & it caused me to develop cancer. Yeah, that's a thing nobody is talking about.
Anyway, I saw this old vid in my feed & recalled how much I like his videos.
I was one of the many who, several years ago, suddenly had subs dumped. It was while I was real sick & off YT. It took me a while to realize some of my subs were missing, then someone told about the sub dumping incident.
Was hoping you'd learned something about Dale.
GeoD
He answered a question from another account on his video on scraping maybe a new account
Dale-miss your good videos!!! waiting for some more :) Hope all is well with you- God bless you and your family
I know man, What happened??
Hi buddy what’s up miss your Videos . Are you coming back?
I've been missing you, Dale. I hope all is well. Love your videos.
Hope you're well
Nice video Dale! You inspired me to go out in my shop and resurrect my 6F power feed. The handle was gone, the limit switches were gone, and all the wires were cut at one point. After some mock up parts, trial, error, and a few extra relays, it's alive. That thing can push me across the floor if I try to oppose it. Now that's impressive!
Due to popular demand, you must make more videos!!! Thanks for your generosity and time for sending the awesome book collection to Keith!!!
I wanted to add to the comments that many of us miss your content, I hope all is well with you and hope to see you back soon
EXCELLENT VIDEO! Not only because it answers a question about power feeds that I have now, your delivery is perfect. No superfluous BS. SOOO many of these videos on YT are so awful I just cant watch them even tho I need their information! You got right to the point, made quality evaluations and gave a complete, concise summation. THANK YOU ( I AM subscribed!)
My Millrite MVN came with a broken Servo in a box. I was planning to buy one of those cheep ones when a buddy stopped by the shop, saw the broken Servo, and offered to take it home and fix it. About a week later and $35 in parts, and the Servo is running lie a champ. Good friends are priceless..
He knows he will need a part made eventually. Lol
@@rossilake218 lmao
I have one of the very first Servos made, given to my dad in the 1970s by his friend, the inventor and founder of Servo Products. In fact, it was the only product he had at the time so it doesn’t have a number, but it’s the 140, and there’s no on off switch, and he made them at his home shop so the tag actually says “Servo Products, Altadena California” It’s a residential city in north Los Angeles County where he lived. Still works great!
Thanks for doing this comparison, Dale. I FINALLY found a Bridgeport clone I could afford that wasn't beaten up, and am now in the process of doing little fixes and upgrades to it over time. A power feed would be nice at some point but it appears that going too cheap has its drawbacks in power feeds, much like most everything else in the realm of tooling.
I've missed you so much! You're back, Yay!
Yay! Thank you!
Gday Dale, thanks for taking the time to do the testing, the Cincinnati I just picked up is all geared through the knee, I’ve never had power feed before up I can see I’m going to really enjoy it. The rapid is extremely fast, I must check it over 10 seconds and see what it comes in at, thanks again and take care
You have the best of both worlds. Congratulations on the new machine
Great video and valuable information, I don't think anyone else has covered this yet thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting makes what I do in my fixit shop seem insignificant 👍👊
Hi Dale, I guess I missed this one two years ago... Very good review / information !! Thank You
Man, has it really been 3 years?? Dale?! Where are you!!!
Still enjoy re watching your videos. We hope to see you on the platform again sometime soon. 👍
This channel was a great find, thanks for posting so much content 👍
Tanks for your work, time and talent !! You're great !!
Many thanks!
Boy that first one is a real wing dinger! Seriously I have one of those on my mill identical to the one that you reviewed and I’ve been very happy with it with the exception of the speed pot. The speed off has a dead spots down on low speeds I think I need to take it apart and replace it with a good potentiometer.
I've had good luck with the al500p. I did one on my z and y axis since my x still has the servo. Adding power feed to the knee has just been an amazing improvement. I got so tired of cranking it up and down for tool changes. The shaft adapter is garbage, I ended up machining a whole new shaft for my Z axis with the differences integrated. But worth the time and effort.
i just drilled and tapped mine and installed an X axis feed on it, took all up 1.5 hrs and cheap to replace
Thanks for sharing' I love My Z axis if I get another machine that what I would put on it first. :-)
Hi Dale! Started following you after meeting at the bash. It was nice meeting you. I'm new to all this but I'm excited to learn something so fun and interesting. Hope you start putting up more videos 😊
You learn anything about why Dale quit posting vids?
Thanks Dale, at some point I'll be getting a drive unit, now I have an idea which one!
Glad to help
I hope you are doing well. Looking forward to some more videos.
I have an older Jet 9x49 that came with a factory X-feed. I got really tired of cranking the Z up & down. Tried a drill, didn't like it. I supplied the make & model of the mill to the feed seller. When I went to install it the new shaft had different threads! Dealer didn't have the correct one so I made one. My X has limit switches that I've never installed, I should do that. I did install the Z limit switches. I like the round handle on the X and have decided to modify the Z to take one that turns all the time. Getting the crank to engage is a PIA. Will just put a small nob on the wheel. So I can let it be engaged full time.
I have an AL 500 on my Grizzly mill and have been through 2 armatures and one field coil, I run it at slow speed often. The last time I replaced the armature I found that the plastic cover on the top of the armature did not have the vent holes open. Drilled them out and over 2 years later it is chugging along. Also notice that after repeated cycles the speed knob changes position to a faster speed.
Amazing side by side comparison I don't have a lathe or anything but very cool how these things work
See you at the Bash. I think it will be very hot there this year.
Great vid, thanks for posting this, great topic for home shop.
Great review, I have a 1946 round ram Bridgeport with the original power feed.
It has different gear positions you can shift it into.
Glad you're back. Good review.
Hey, thanks!
You are back, great. Greetings from tropical Germany.
Hey, thanks!
Hey Dale, I second the request for a video about your "pinging" the table. My 42" is also off by by 7-8 thousand. I am scared to scrape it that much as I don't have the hardware to do so properly. But that pinging thing I can do!
Correction: Peening. We aren't looking for a submarine...
Glad to see you in the saddle again.
Thanks for the info on dro! They are extensive and I don't think I want to make a mistake so I looking around and getting advice hopping to get the right one. Thanks again. Bill
Such a timely video for me! I was just looking for a new power feed thanks for the thorough reviews and insight. great video as always!
Glad it was helpful!
@@BuildSomthingCool Dale ,are you still alive? Its been a long time since you posted any content. Hope your doing OK.
I bought a Grizzly mill almost 19 years ago. It’s the biggest mill/drill they had as I needed if right away, and my riggers said that they would have to take the Bridgeport apart to get it in, and I didn’t have time for that. I figured I would replace mine when I had the time, but I never did. I bought the table drive, which is horizontal. I use this a lot. The only problem I had with the drive occurred about five, six years ago. My error! The main, plastic gear at the end of the drive broke teeth-as it should have. Grizzly got me a new gear in three days. Didn’t cost much. Other than that, no problems with it.
A good review. Without sponsors, or Patreon, most home shops will go with the most inexpensive. Like handheld grinders. I have 6 HF handheld grinders with different wheels and brushes mounted on them. For all 6, I have less than $70 invest as I buy them on sale. One 4.5" Metabo can cost $125, unless you catch it on sale. I can wear out 10 of the HF and still not pay for a Metabo.
He it is.
mature I agree, I have the same set up with 5 harbor freight grinders each with a different tool(wire cup ,wire braided wheel, cut off wheel, grinding wheel,, and sanding disk, etc. ) oh and I also have one cordless milwalk. for when im on the move. all 5 corded grinders I got on sale for like 10 bucks each from HF cant beat that and they run well
We needed this video.
I should have kept the Servo. The base was missing! I thought it was broken. I bought the Precision Mathews. Works great = 3 years now.
Is there a merch store to buy the "build something cool" stickers from the Fireball Tool shop tour?
Hi Dale,
Very good review... Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
Thank you kindly
Hi there. I wonder why you stopped making videos.
Nice vídeo, greetings from México
Thanks! what part of the Country?
@@BuildSomthingCool from Queretaro, the center of México : )
Missing the videos Dale. Hope you get some time to produce in the future. ATB
Hi Steve good to here from you. I have about 4 videos in the can. Now if I could find time to edit them. Lol. Editing takes take away from shop time😔😁
Glad to see you back.
2 years on, time for a comeback?
Will any of these aftermarket feeds replace a 6f Bridgeport x axis feed? It seems the x axis screw is different between a manual feed and a Bridgeport power feed. Thanks
Enjoyed Dale!
ATB, Robin
Thanks my freind
Nice to see you here Rob.
Will you be making any more content on your channel???
Finally, another video! This review/test was just what I needed. The spec is 0-200 RPM but I knew that couldn't be true. I need 0.5 in/min on a horizontal mill. I think I can get away with the 0.9 feed that you measured.
Great video Dale!!! I recently bought a used mill that had a nice older X power feed but am considering additional power feeds for X&Z. After purchasing a 4 axis DRO and a riser block additional powerfeeds wont fit in the budget for a few more months!!!
Save the money and buy the Z axis. I use it more then my Y
@@BuildSomthingCool I totally agree!!! Would be far superior to a cordless impact/adapter driver.
Keep the videos coming have miss your videos.
Will do!
This video was just in time I need a new power feed for my jet mill been looking for a while trying to decide which one I going to by. Look like a servo 140 or 150.
Hey Dale, good to see ya back. Your beards done the same as mine, gone gray b4 the hair on my head Lol
very good video..thanks for your time
You are welcome
Pleased to see one of your great video's.👍 Missed seeing them.
why you stopped making video bro? 🙂
Could you check top of the table for flatness? I think dovetail could just wear out in the middle, where it is used the most. It is hard to imagine that so thick pice of cast iron bends...
Great video btw
You are correct he isn't I've had 4 Bridgeport the tables do not sag checked mine with a Precision Starrett straight edge top and bottom they wear out in the middle I have the Bridgeport power feed on a 48 inch table not a 49 inch table Bridgeport table 32, 36, 42, 48 are the correct table sizes for American made Bridgeport and the confusion somebody must have a Chinese Bridgeport if it has 49 inch table
Ed Carl l
You can check the top, but its easer to measure the ways. That way your not turning over the table every time you want to check it.
@@plymouth-hl20ton37 T'was my feeling too - lack of sufficient lubrication on the ways. Could also argue user error - always putting things on to machine in the middle of the table - use the ends - wear them a bit too!
Cast iron does bend! I bought a new 6" PMatic jointer a long time ago. The fence had a serious curve. I called their (then) US service and got connected to a tech. He told me to put a 4x4 near each end, curve up, stand in the middle and bounce, slightly harder each time until I felt it give. At some point there was an obvious sudden movement. Checked and the fence was back to straight. Who'd a thunk? It has to do with stresses that occur while cooling. There are ways to remove or reduce those stresses before grinding but it takes time & effort that was in short supply @ PowerMatic and still is in almost all cheap cast machine parts.
30 years ago I got a very old Crescent 16" jointer for $100. DMD, rusty. I took the tables and fence to a grinding service and had them Blanchard ground. I used a precision straight edge to set the machine up and every thing was dead on. Last year I did the check again. The tables had sagged. Each table is supported at 4 places by wedge blocks so flatness can't be controlled but twist can be as well as overall parallelism to the head reference. The support points are not at the magic hit or miss quarter points but not off by terribly far. Yet there is significant sag in what are quite massive cast iron parts. I put my precision level on and it could detect the wave shape. I don't generally get that thing out except to set up CNC machines. It can drive you crazy.
Instead of buying the 1000 dollar ones one can almost convert it to cnc with closed loop control
Even if you put a $750 drive on X, Y, and Z you'd be pretty close. The only thing that doesn't factor in is a ball screw conversion, which will set you back a bit more.
@@petergamache5368 using all Chinesium equipment should be able to get the parts under 1000 for one axis, I'm not sure if the rolled ballscrews are good enough though. Most of them don't have an anti-backlash nut at least so there will be like 2 thou backlash
If you go with steppers; you can absolutely go CNC for much less than $1000 USD. Ballscrews will bring that price up quite a bit; though... I’d probably figure $1200 for the whole thing. This is with Chinese parts; Taiwanese, US, or EU parts will be more, of course. There is a version of GRBL that runs on an Arduino Mega and common, cheap 3D printer UI hardware (RAMPS + a character LCD board + keypad) so that you don’t even need a PC on the mill. Some soldering will be required to adapt the RAMPS board to the external stepper drivers.
Hey Dale, as I do my new year's purge of channels I subscribe to, but no longer watch, I can't seem to unsub yours in hopes that you will be creating more content soon. Hope you're well and looking forward to your return.
So awesome! I have had a shars one and cheap(er) Chinese import in my ebay cart for some time and just didn’t want to pull the plug quite yet. I’ve been searching around for a used servo, but haven’t found one that is calling my name. This video definitely helped to make a decision. Thank you, keep the awesome videos coming!
Good episode Darryl!
Kinda like tthe project farm channel but for machinists. Good idea. Very useful, as i am looking at this right now. Also looking at building a stepper motor set up for doing this.
Hope you are ok. Been rolling thru the videos. Hope we get more
Very nice set of reviews and opinions 👌 were amazing
Thanks a ton
@@BuildSomthingCool you are very welcome
Thanks Dale.
Mr. Dale, I have been checking your channel regularly ( I have subscribed already), I hope all is well and I am looking forward to new content from you. Thanks! Steve
Damn nice comparison!👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this. Very well done.
A $100ish dollar remote power feed unit NEW, and you bemoan it! ;) The best option(IMHO as an ex-machine tool/fitter turner) is to buy a vertical milling machine rather than a turret mill, as they generally have integrated power feeds(and rapids). Turret mills are great machines in theory, but not in real life scenarios as they are relatively slow(work cycles), lacking in rigidity(and require regular tramelling). Also, operators are generally loathed to change any of the axis' from perpendicular - its human nature! Turret mills are also significantly higher in price when compared to vertical mills, and more so to universal/horizontal mills with swivelling vertical head attachments, let alone the cost of adding aftermarket power feeds. An anology of the issues with Turret mills, is that they are like Trikes(three wheeled motorcycles), both appearing to be great ideas, but both ultimately being cursed by their impractical compromises. Keep safe and well.
Very cool info. Why do you have the x axis table movement reading on the Y axis of the DRO? Just curious.
Good Question. I must have plug something wrong when I changing out power drives
Very informative video, thank's Dale !!!
Great video with good info, looking for a power feed at the moment so this has been a big help, do you happen to have the dimensions of the extension shaft as im thinking of making my own.
Great review and information 👍👍
ATB....Dean
Dale? Where'd ya go buddy? You ok?
I just ordered a z and a y for my mill. Buying 2 at a time made my decision for me.
I just ordered 2 myself how are yours doing
@@mikefinnegan4621 sold the mill but they were accurate and trouble free when I had them.
I got a Bridgeport power feeder, thing I don't like is have to cut lead screw to install. Any thoughts on that? Got a good deal on it. Seem to not find a screw for it.
Is this channel ever returning?
Great review Dale!
Come on, man. You have to use your talent and make us another awesome video. Unless you're dead. In that case, R.I.P.
could u do a video on how to do a process like milling metal without an actual mill?
Thank yo so much I have been on the table for so long this really helps also you talked about weight can you provide the numbers if possible
140lb or 150lb is fie for the Bridgeport style machines
Thank you
Dale, Thanks for the info. I have a Servo on mine and it does work great.
Have you been balancing anything?
After the 3rd armature died on my align, I decided to replace it with a wing ding on my 6 by 26 knee mill. I was not a direct replacement but close enough. The bolt hole pattern was different enough that I could only use one of the two bolts to hold it to the mill (yes I was too lazy to mill new holes) and I needed to cut the limit switch bracket to fit my mill (tried using the align bracket but the hole pattern for the limit switch boxes are different) $149 from Walmart. We'll see how long it takes for me to fry this one.
3 years and still strong
Always liked the content here,does this guy still make videos?
Hope you return
Dale, the grey beard decreases your boyish charm :)
Excellent, most useful topic, thanks
I know, its as gray as Mr Petes😁
Glad to see you back, what was the cutting finish like under power feed?
Looks great! I could not see any real differences between the feeds
I really appreciate your effort in comparing the different drives, do they make even smaller ones?
Not that I Know of
Really great video. Nice work my friend!
Thank you very much!
where are you dale ! no updates since this last video
My Servo has a small hole drilled in the bottom cover so the oil drains...
Hey Dale
Can the Wen Ding be used for the y axis, in its ad it is called out as a x axis machine
Thanks
Ray P
An update on my al500p. Fried my 3rd armature yesterday. Long slow pulls seems to do it in. Cutting a .025 " slot in a 10 inch long part 20 passes and then it blew my circuit breaker and stopped. Don't know how this company controls the speed but if it is via dc voltage reduction, slow speeds means low voltage and high current. I GUESS that is what does the armature in. Anyone out there with similar experiences ? My next one will be the cheapest as its price is about the same as an armature from Align.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Rapid traverse - it seems the standard unit is inches per minute rather than 10 seconds - so we have to multiply your numbers by 6 to compare. Just a quick Google and I found proper machines achieving 20 "/10s - so that's twice your best - and one doing 100 inches per 10 secs - so understandably, that's a CNC !
I have a Bridgeport here in germany with original power feed in X and Y, do you know if I can buy a original power feed for Z? Thank you!
i'd buy the cheap ones, replace internal motor with a cnc controlled motor, instant cnc converstion with instant response and no windup like those crappy motors inside do
Useful info. Can I ask for some advice? I recently acquired a Bridgeport series 1 Boss CNBC mill (circadian early 80’s I think). It is missing all of the control parts. The motors are there but the rest I will have to acquire and assemble. I could use some help. I’m told by the PO that I need a breakout board and a a video. I also need to clean it and lube it and reassemble. I’d appreciate any advice from you or viewers, THANKS.
I wish I new more about cnc so I could help you. Im planing on doing a video on how to clean and recondition a mill tho. I just not sure when ill get to it😔
I can say from experiences with other early 80's era controls, the solid state boards are either the Gold or the Skunk of the whole system. It can take a good tech several Billable hours to follow the logic and test for a rotten component that prevents the whole system from working.
Phillip B. Thanks, I may take you up on that. First goal is to figure out for sure what I have. Number on knee is CNC 1033, head is 2J - 72065 C. Hard to read head number.
@@ElixirCNC Don't know the answer to that yet. The axis motors appear to be original equipment as far as I know. Ball screws have already been installed. The PO tells me I need a vfd and a break out board and an old computer. I have the computer, need the rest.
Bruce No ya Yes you will need those.
those cheap power feeds that are for the Y and Z axis are pretty expensive, i just made a few bushes and fixed the cheap wen deng x axis feed to all my axis for very little money and a little time, if one ever fails i have a spare on the shelf to swap it out and straight back to work. 3 years in and still going good. even the Z !!
Glade to here the wing ding has been working so well for you over the last 3 years :-)