My buddy found one of these stoves in a dumpster, he took it and refurbished it back into working condition. We just recently got back from a week of dispersed camping in New Mexico, and even through thunderstorms, and nights of not being able to start a camp fire, this little stove kept us fed and happy. Carrying around a gallon of liquid fuel is much nicer than relying on propane tanks.
I am done with propane stoves after going on a scout troop outing for snow camp, waking up in the morning after snow and 10 degree temps, and the propane cooking equipment is frozen
I had abuncha problems using my stove--especially in cold weather and high altitude--until someone recently taught me the purpose of the lighting lever. Cold temperatures and high altitude are a double whammy on the fuel/air mixture. The lighting lever is a valve that determines where the fuel/air mixture comes from within the tank. With the lighting lever in the up position, fuel vapors AND air are siphoned off the top of the tank out of the air one pumps into the tank. With the lighting lever down, raw liquid fuel (and no air) is siphoned off the bottom of the tank. Having the lighting lever up presents the manifold and burner with more air and fuel vapor (and not liquid fuel) for a leaner burn. This is especially useful when the generator is cold because a cold generator is unable to atomize liquid fuel. Since air is being siphoned off the top of the fuel tank when the lighting lever is up, tank pressure will also drop quickly...hence Coleman's instruction to pump the tank again after lighting the stove. If one were to leave the lighting lever down while trying to light the stove with a cold generator, only raw liquid fuel will squirt into the manifold. The liquid fuel can't mix efficiently with air in the manifold, so it results in a very rich burn, high yellow flame, liquid fuel dripping out of the manifold, etc. until the generator heats up enough and is capable of atomizing raw liquid fuel. Once the generator is hot, it can atomize liquid fuel. Placing the lighting lever in the down position delivers liquid fuel to the generator. The liquid fuel atomizes inside the hot generator. Then the atomized, hot fuel vapor moves into the manifold where it mixes easily and efficiently with air. That makes for a beautiful blue flame at the burner. I've found it best to leave the lighting lever in the up position until the flame turns blue even if it's longer than Coleman's instruction to "leave the lever up for one minute" and even if I have to pump up the tank some more to make up for the air that's getting siphoned off. Leaving the lighting lever up gives the manifold and burner the extra air it needs to get to an efficient fuel/air mixture sooner, and it also heats up the generator more. Flipping the lighting lever down when the flame is yellow only introduces more raw liquid fuel to the already rich mixture, so the yellow flame will persist. If I flip the lighting lever down and the flame turns yellow again, it means the generator is still not hot enough to atomize liquid fuel. I'll then flip the lever back up to get a hot blue flame back and give the generator a chance to heat up some more. By the way, the lever isn't an "on/off" switch. It's a manual, sliding valve that moves between the raw fuel and air/vapor portions of the tank. Go ahead and set it at any position between fully up and fully down that facilitates your efforts to get the generator heated up so that you can then place the lever in the fully down position. This solved my problem when using the stove in cold temperatures at high altitudes and made for a quicker blue flame at normal altitudes and warm temps.
That was a fine explanation of the fuel lever and helped me more to understand the differences for high altitude and cold weather starts. Thank you! 👍😆
A couple of issues. 1. No need to worry about putting your thumb over the pump knob hole after pumping. There is a check valve in there to keep the air from escaping. 2. You won't get the big yellow flames if you open the valve all the way, all at once. This is how the instant lighting system is designed to work. Pump it up. Lighting lever up. Hold your lighted match or lighter to the burner and quickly open the valve ALL THE WAY or at least two full turns. Not two partial turns, two complete revolutions. All the way works every time. As soon as it lights, you can start pumping to keep the pressure up. Pressure is your friend here. It atomizes the fuel better. Try it, you'll like it. If you don't believe me, read the instructions on the wind screen in front of you.
I've been out of the navy since 2000. You're obviously a lifer, and your wife loves to take big cock while you're at sea. Stupid and over-confident. Telltale signs of a fukkeen looser. Nice moustache, lol.
@@Last_Chance. Depends on how long you run it, at what power level you run it, and how full the fuel tank is. But you can pump it up easily while cooking. In short, not often enough to be a burden at all. Even on a big 426 3 burner running all 3 on high, which is unusual, I'd estimate 10 minutes or so between to maintain full power. If you want to keep your number of re-pumps to a minimum, don't fill the tank as much. But you will have to pump more to start, it will just hold pressure longer. When cooking on one burner at medium to low heat, you may not have to pump it after the initial two pump sessions.(pre and post lighting because the instant lighting feature does use a significant amount of air). When the tank is full, there is less air space, which will need to be replenished, but with only a few pumps, sooner than a 1/4 full tank with lots of air that required a lot of pumps to pressurize initially. So, the total number of pumps will be about the same regardless for a full to empty tank. When you see a decrease in power, pump until you get what you need. You will get a feel for it the more you use them. You can tell by how hard it is to pump. If it's not giving much resistance, the pressure is low. Hard to pump, pressure high. I occasionally see inexperienced users complain about having to pump all the time and find that they still have the lighting lever up. Remember to put it down when its warmed up. DO NOT confuse the lighting lever on these stoves with the cleaning needle lever, which looks identical, on some other single burner stoves and lanterns. They don't do anything close to the same thing. Hope this makes sense and answered your question.
Thanks for the tips! I just pulled mine out of my shed(which was left behind from the previous homeowner). It was there and rusty when i bought the house.. It's appears to be about 50yrs old. It was in bad shape but after watching this and doing a quick rehab, she's cooking again!! I've been wanting to play with this thing for 16yrs(since I moved here) and today it happened🙏
This is something I would have asked my dad about, but he passed away a few years ago. Thank you very much for filling in for him. I was going to go buy a brand new one, but my roommate has an old kerosene one in the basement. I figured I would at least search TH-cam for an instruction video before buying a new one.
Kerosene stoves operate a bit differently than gasoline (aka white gas) stoves. This is because gasoline (white gas is just low octane gasoline) is flammable, but kerosene is only combustible. That means kerosene is harder to light than white gas. To my knowledge, Coleman does not make kerosene stoves; although, they may have many decades ago. Even during WWII, Coleman was making gasoline stoves for the US troops. For what it’s worth, Coleman does make a kerosene pressure lantern (model 639)
Thank you Practical Preper, I've just purchased a Coleman Camp Stove and you have taught me how to operate it. By the way I am a Military Veteran myself. Cheers
You only need to keep your thumb over the hole while pumping. When you're done pumping, you don't have to keep your thumb over the hole in the pump. A check valve will maintain pressure in the fuel tank while you tighten the pump plunger.
I have a similar, but older model of this stove. I liked your video very much. Three additional tips: 1) when filling with fuel, do not fill the tank "lippin'-full;" this leaves an adequate air space for pressurization. If filled absolutely full, oftentimes the stove will flare up dangerously since raw, unvaporized fuel is being delivered to the burner. 2) the slight leakage where the generator tube inserts into the right-side burner unit can be lessened or completely avoided by putting the stove's carrying handle up instead of being between the fuel tank & stove case. 3) after reading other comments, remember this Very Important Point: use ONLY Stove/Lantern Fuel (aka"white gas/petrol) in these older stoves (automotive unleaded gas CAN be used in emergencies, but is NOT recommended, and kerosene - "paraffin" to those if a U.K. persuasion - will NOT work unless you have bought a newer stove that SPECIFICALLY states it can use kerosene.
Uh oh, grabbed a bottle of klean strip that said fuel on it and after filling my tank, I realize it's actually denatured alcohol. Would this cause any damage to the tank? My oil lamps are running well with denatured alcohol but the way the generator is set up I think I'm better off with Naphtha.
@@matthewstephens7509 Sorry just saw this post. I have no idea. If you do decide to lite off the stove make sure you have a buddy with a Fire Extinguisher and wear proper PPE. Personally I would just drain it and refill it. Hope this helps.
Bought a Coleman 413g from a garage sale for $2.00. Guy said it hadn't been used in 35 years, but after I oiled the leather gasket, I got sufficient pressure and she fired right up (and had half a tank of fuel)! Thanks a ton for the tips.
Thank you so much for this. The oiling of that rubber gasket made all the difference. Got ours today for 20 bucks. Hurricane ready for the east coast of Canada. Thanks again.
Im a visual learner, i usually have to re-read directions and get frustrated sometimes, especially when the directions are not very descriptive. Thank you for the video, now I dont have to mess around with figuring this thing out on my own. Many commenters helped too.
I just picked up a Coleman "Generator" camp stove 412-5621 at a garage sale for $5.00!!! It's in beautiful condition and thanks to your video I know how to run it. Thank you very much.
Last year I picked up a Coleman 2 burner camp stove 413E at a thrift shop for $5. Looked brand new like nobody had ever used it. Brought it home and rinsed out the fuel tank, filled it with fuel and got both burners to light easily. Pretty dang good score for a brand new stove for $5. Later last year I was back in the same thrift store and they had another stove in there, a 3 burner model this time 426C, you could tell it had been lightly used maybe a couple times. Picked it up for $15, it works great as well.
@@skywatcher856 If your stove has a red fuel tank, Coleman fuel or its equivalent i.e. Crown stove fuel from Walmart "much cheaper". If your stove/lantern has a grey tank you can also use unleaded gasoline but it burns dirtier.
Thank you for this video. We are avid campers but we are using a more modern Colman stove with the propane canisters. I found a Colman 425B stove at a yard sale for $5. We were so excited to find it and are looking forward to using it on the next camping trip.
Theres something soo soothing about an old lantern or stove hissing away. It's like the perfect white noise when camping. I did go a little nuts on offerup and got a 425b stove a 220f and. 200a lantern to go with my 220b lantern and 530 pocket stove that i already had thanks to grandpa. Im ready to take my 2 year son camping!! Pumped up more than a coleman lantern. Okay that was a tad nerdy.
Nice video for beginners to coleman stoves, a few points if you ever do an edit or redo of this video. 1. when pouring the fuel you actually want to hold the gas can 180 degrees from where you had it, while you do hold it horizontally the hole should be a the high point not the low, with a full can fuel would spill. 2. there is no need to hold your thumb on the hole while tightening the pump. it is a one way valve that wont allow air to escape even without your thumb on it just have to cover hole while pumping. 3. it is a bad idea to blow out flames on stoves or lanterns, a flame indicates that gas is still cycling through, much safer to let it burn off then to allow a build up of gas to occur. again nice video, looking forward to more
We used to do a lot if camping back in the 60's and 70's ...My Dad said that the can of white gas was to expensive So he burned regular unleaded gas in our stoves and lanterns .never had any problems with them ..I love those old colman stoves .....I live on the west coast of Florida , This last hurricane that was heading for us Had me out digging in the shed to get our old colman stove out ..I filled it up with gas and tried pumping it up and it wouldn't pump ..I ran up to Ace Hardware and bought a pump repair kit , Put it in and Presto magic .the stove works great ...The hurricane leveled the Bahamas and turned north " Thank God " ..So I've got my stove ready for the next hurricane that comes buzzing this way ...Prayers to those people in the Bahamas as they rebuild their lives
I just brought one yesterday,I didn’t know if I wanted propane or the gas , I’m new at this so when I read the comments I feel good about purchasing it, thank you for explaining how to start it up .
Great video. I just received a very old coleman camp stove from my father in law who passed away. I just replaced the leather gasket and the thing fired up like nothing. Like you said these stoves are bulletproof. Thats why they still sell the original model decades later.
sorry for the late reply man. i literally ran out for two weeks to camp the day after i fixed mine. i got the gasket at canadian tire, any hardware store that sells camping stuff has then it was 6.50 canadian dollars. i just used olive oil to lube it up cos it was handy
RSH21 That is what I ended up doing, taking some time, having to do over and over. They were bone dry. Have been sitting for probably more years than I have been alive. My step grandma is 85 now. Ended up working wonders. Got them both working. They are great. I did call Colemen, too. They recommended 3in1 oil.
You poured from the gallon can with the hole on the bottom. They are supposed to be held with the hole on the top. This allows air into the can and offers much better control of the pour.
Thank you brother. My father in law has one from when his mom bought it used at a garage sale over 40 years ago and I’m in the process of restoring it a little. My wife and I will be using one of these (the earlier models) to cook while on our way up to Alaska from Nc. Should be a blast!
Light it outside and be ready to jump back, you don't want to melt your face off on an initial light up, if something goes wrong. Once it is all lit nice, take it indoors or in your tent or where ever.
I have the sear version, I bought it used thank you for your video because... I would've never exactly new how to start it if it wasn't for your video... have a beautiful weekend!! 😀
thank you for the very detailed instruction. Haven't used a stove like this in many years but just got a beautiful 425 so needed to brush up on starting Many thanks
From Costa Rica: Many years ago, people that couldn't buy electric or gas stove used chinesse kerosene stoves. I remember that 45 years ago. I was not sure that coleman stove works fine with kerosene. That information motives me to buy a coleman stove. Thank you . In Costa Rica we say "canfin" instead kerosene because many years ago people in my country didn't understad english so they read: "can fine kerosene". They say!
These Coleman stoves are excellent for cooking hot meals when camping anytime or traveling ,or a weather related power outage that last for days. I also keep my butane gas grill ready as a backup all year round. The best things about the little Coleman are #1 simple #2 inexpensive #3 portable #4 cheap to maintain an restore.They have basically remained the same for years which is great .
That's not how you pour. You want the hole to be on top. That allows air to be pulled in from the top of the stream. It will give you a nice steady stream with no gurgling or spillage. Same goes with 5 gal buckets, pour with the spout on top.
Just bought a 425b today for $15 that looks clean like yours. Only prob is the gas cap gasket. I switch caps with my pocket stove and works perfect. I didnt know you had to put the lever down after lighting and wondered why i was losing pressure soo quickly.
If You pour with the spout of the can at the top, air can get into the can without the fuel chug, chug chugging out as the air try's to displace the fluid as you pour it out.... js.
You don't have to disassemble the pump to lubricate the leather. Just put a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil through the small hole on the retaining ring (not the pump plunger). However, If you need to replace or inspect the leather, sure remove the plunger and lubricate it at that time.
@@practicalprepping6176 I'm disappointed that your video didn't tell us what kind of oil for us novices, I'm assuming 3-in-1 oil, or will any oil do, including something like cooking oil?
Thank you for this video! I bought a used one and was a bit confused when reading the instructions. I am going to do a trial run before I go camping this weekend.
I like how you didn't edit out the part where the little pump handle didn't go right in. It shows people like me who are actually trying to learn how to use that stove that it may take a few tries.
On cold days : put a spot of fule paste under the genarater. Light it to warm up the gen. Will help light faster. Also on single burners use a wind screen, not only for wind, but to reflect heat back at the tank.
I'll second the wind screen. They really do speed up cooking time. Mine is old, think it's a "Fire Maple" brand ?? Tall, narrow folding aluminium panels.
You mention oiling the leather gasket but don't say what with? Is that white fuel you are putting on there? Without rubber gloves? Helpful video since I just picked one of these up at Goodwill for $5. But not too technical.
On my stove I always have the handle in the up position before I attach the tank. It allows the generator tube to insert fully into the receptacle. On my stove (413-E) it makes a bit of difference.
When I got mine, a ( 413-A), The photographs that the seller had listed showed two large nails poking up just below the grill behind the front panel. This interested me, what could they be? Turns out, just as you said. The previous owner never lifted the handle up and had used the nails to hold the tank in place. There are holes in the tank retaining tabs that the nails went through. For the life of my stove, I may have been the first one to fit the tank correctly. Good comment. Informative. Cheers !
Wait until the burner and generator (the tube from the tank to the stove burner) completely cool. Then remove the tank and generator assembly by sliding it out of the stove. Then carry it away from any flames, e.g. campfire, or heat sources (e.g. lanterns or heaters). Then you can SLOWLY unscrew the fuel cap. You will hear a hiss as the pressurized air escapes. Do this slowly and away from heat sources because the vapor is flammable.
Looking into one of these stoves. What is the advantage and disadvantage compared to the propane cylinder ones? These kind of seem like a little bit of a pain not sure
I bought one of these off a friend a couple of years ago having no clue what I was actually buying. I thought it was a propane stove. I finally got it out to use this weekend and I didn't know what in the world I was looking at. I am not a mechanically inclined gal, so I don't think this will be a trip to experiment with this thing as I'm camping by myself with two small children. I don't want to blow us up. I really need a stove so I am super sad I'm going to have to go buy one now. Thanks for the video though for when I am ready to try this thing out. I just wish the camera guy panned in closer. I'm a details person when I'm learning something new.
I just got one of these grills it’s has 3 tops on it. I am gonna use it today. I just can’t wait to start it up. I might just start it now that way when we done I fishing I can act like a pro at this shit. 😂😂😂
Mineral oil works very good for lubing the pump leather, i have heard of guys using ballistol as it is a leather preservative and gun oil all in one, i believe coleman makes a retrofit kit that replaces the leather with a rubber piece.
Yep my 424 has the rubber plunger. I had to replace it. What I do know being a gunsmith and a repairer of air rifles is that ordinary oil will destroy rubber piston washers. Best stuff is mineral for the leather or I use silicone oil. It's good for air rifle washers so good for the rubber pistons on the 424.
"You can use a cheap funnel"... yes you can, BUT you better make sure that cheap funnel is cleaned of all dust and dirt first or you'll have issues with tube and nozzle clogging up. AND you can over fill the tank easily, which isn't good either. You need the head space for the vapors and the pressure build up. You're better off getting the Coleman funnel with the filter paper and it won't allow you to overfill the tank.
I have not used mine in 20 years so I will oil the leather gasket you mentioned. Thanks for the video, It's the first time I hear about this type of maintenance.
min 4:51 - Correct me if I'm wrong but this stove does NOT take Kerosene, only Naphta/White Gas/Coleman Fuel, which are all the same thing. Kerosene (aka Lamp Oil) is more oil-like, almost like diesel.
I know this is an old comment. But you can use kerosene in these old stoves. You just need a way to get the generator tube nicely heated first. What I've done in the past is cut the bottom of a pop can off and put it under the generator tube with some fuel in it. Light that first and let it heat up before continuing like normal. Probably not ideal but it works in a pinch.
I just bought one just like yours for $20.00. This video is incredibly helpful. I was actually thinking of converting it to use camping propane tanks for convenience. Do you know if anyone has done that before?
Yes. You can buy a propane adapter for this purpose that accepts the one pound green propane bottles, or you can add a gas hose to connect the propane adapter to a 20 pound bbq gas cylinder. Then you have the option of using liquid fuel as designed or propane, depending on your circumstance.
@@moregrouchy Thanks, I have already done it and so far it has worked great. In addition, I found an adapter that allows me to refill the green camping bottles.
Is it cheaper to buy liquid propane or this 10$ camp fuel or better to buy the colaman stove that can hook up on 15lb tank. So the 15lb tank that we can exchange at grocery store or gas station is pressurized form. I was buying this stove for 10 dollar but the seller keep telling me you can't use car gadoline. I called home depot and they only know the 1lb or 15lb pressurized containers.
How do you guys clean the inside of your fuel tanks? I recently picked up a 432A that looks like it's barely been used, but there's a small amount of sediment in the bottom of the fuel tank. Also, the colour inside the fuel tank appears to have a reddish hue to it. Not sure if it's rust or just the actual colour of the inside. I heard of some people using vinegar to clean and then washing it out with water, letting it dry completely, and then coating the inside with a bit of engine oil. Hoping to hear from someone who's maybe done the job a few times before I go and ruin a nice stove. Thanks
I usually go to Lowes or Home Depot and grab either NAPA or one of the other solvents and flush out the tank. Then I blow it out with compressed air. If you don't have a compressor, use canned air. Hope that helps.
@@practicalprepping6176 thank you for the help! Do you reckon it'd be necessary, or even helpful, to add a coat of oil to the inside of the tank after drying in order to prevent corrosion? This is my first vintage Coleman stove (and probably not the last)
This is so cool. Thank you for your video. I saw a couple of very dirty ones today but I couldn't tell if they were still good. If I am going to buy one of these, what are the things I should be aware of for safety measure?
+Sourdough Girl The big thing is to make sure the tank does not leak. The easiest way is to fill it up and pressurize it away from any source of heat/fire. As always, use eye protection. If you see fluid leaking out, you know you have a hole.
Thank you for your reply. I probably will pass on those because I don't want to buy whatever required to pressurize it for the test. Still, very cool video.
Just so everyone knows, Coleman fuel is basically the same as naptha that you can find in the paint aisle at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. That is, Coleman fuel actually is naptha, except they add a corrosion inhibitor to it, or so they say. I've never had a problem with corrosion so I'm not sure if it's a sell gimmick or not.
@@lyndakarczewski5803 It's not cheaper at the Home Depot where I'm at. In fact it's significantly more expensive. But if you need fuel it's there. I think the most economical naphtha fuel is the Crown brand camping fuel sold at Walmart. It's a few bucks cheaper than Coleman and it's usually sold right next to it on the same shelf.
best way is too buy the red spout that will screw onto the coleman can. incert spout till it reaches in the bottom of spout with o ring. then push down till pressure equalizes then slowly remove. this is cause u will loose some fuel if u pull it out too fast.
Excellent video. I was wondering since you know Coleman Camp Fuel can be expensive and as of this writing it is close to $14.00 per gallon, have you ever entertained the idea of making white from gasoline at a fraction of the cost of the Coleman fuel? Making white gas consists of removing the dies and additives from unleaded, ethanol-free gasoline via distillation. I am also a prepper and have made several gallons of white gas for such emergency situations that are natural or man made. Currently I can make camp fuel for about $3.00 to $4.00 per gallon. I do not sell the white gas I only help others make their own if they are interested. What do you think? Thank you. Dave Whitegas
I have made a video showing people the basic process for making white gas. Look up my video, Dave Whitegas, Let's Make White Gas Camp Fuel #1. And if you decide to make your own white gas I am giving away a free manual to get people started. Thank you for your video. People always need a good video of instruction. And thank you for your service.
Can you buy replacement parts for this? Found my dads from like 30 years + ago hasn't been used in all that time. Don't want to get rid of it but don't want to just have a usless stove antique
My coleman stove has a leak at the on/off/lite/high value. I've taken it off by unscrewing the cover and pulling off the dial. What would you recommend using on the threads. plumbers puddy?
Great Video ! Please help me with the following. 1) What is the total cost of all the things you listed in the video ? 2) How long does the Gas Last for cooking every day ?
+UFIC1 The stove can run new can run around a hundred US Dollars or used from 5 USD on up. The gas averages around 15 USD a gallon, multitool varies in price but you can get a cheap one for under ten USD, use any cheap oil to lubricate the gasket: 3 in 1, veggie, olive oil, motor oil, you get the idea.
+UFIC1 In regards to how long the fuel lasts, it really depends on what you are cooking. For example, I was doing a cooking demo a while back and I had the pot on simmer and after 6 hours I had to refill the fuel tank. Other times when I was doing cooking, I was able to "nurse" the fuel for two days; the meals were quick, easy to make kind. Hope this helped.
@@johnblaisdell7885 Use Neatsfoot oil to recondition the leather with your fingers.....just like we used to do with automotive/truck seals that were leather.
@@keithbrookshire Neatsfoot oil has been the recommended oil for leather seals since before I was a kid. Nothing has changed unless some synthetic oil is now recommended. Motor oil and cooking oil are just guesses. Eventually, the white gas vapors will wash out the seal and require more Neatsfoot oil. There'rs a guy on TH-cam who has maybe a three part vid series on completely servicing and rebuilding these stoves. The only real problems I have ever seen have been inside the generator. It does come apart and is very serviceable. His vids are worth a look if for nothing more than to aquatint yourself with how these stoves work and service.
I am done with propane stoves after going on a scout troop outing for snow camp, waking up in the morning after snow and 10 degree temps, and the propane cooking equipment is frozen
Every home should store one of these under their kitchen sinks in event of a natural disaster or lengthy power outage for saving food from your now dead freezer. I use marine fondue fuel for mine.
My 425b key slides on the valve shaft, doesnt stick out and the key tab fold. The valve shaft has tab area so when the key is pulled out it catches and opens the valve.
What was the point of messing with the leather grommet at the beginning of the video? You took it out and squeeze it and then put it back in. What was the reason for doing that?
My buddy found one of these stoves in a dumpster, he took it and refurbished it back into working condition. We just recently got back from a week of dispersed camping in New Mexico, and even through thunderstorms, and nights of not being able to start a camp fire, this little stove kept us fed and happy. Carrying around a gallon of liquid fuel is much nicer than relying on propane tanks.
I am done with propane stoves after going on a scout troop outing for snow camp, waking up in the morning after snow and 10 degree temps, and the propane cooking equipment is frozen
I had abuncha problems using my stove--especially in cold weather and high altitude--until someone recently taught me the purpose of the lighting lever. Cold temperatures and high altitude are a double whammy on the fuel/air mixture.
The lighting lever is a valve that determines where the fuel/air mixture comes from within the tank. With the lighting lever in the up position, fuel vapors AND air are siphoned off the top of the tank out of the air one pumps into the tank. With the lighting lever down, raw liquid fuel (and no air) is siphoned off the bottom of the tank.
Having the lighting lever up presents the manifold and burner with more air and fuel vapor (and not liquid fuel) for a leaner burn. This is especially useful when the generator is cold because a cold generator is unable to atomize liquid fuel. Since air is being siphoned off the top of the fuel tank when the lighting lever is up, tank pressure will also drop quickly...hence Coleman's instruction to pump the tank again after lighting the stove.
If one were to leave the lighting lever down while trying to light the stove with a cold generator, only raw liquid fuel will squirt into the manifold. The liquid fuel can't mix efficiently with air in the manifold, so it results in a very rich burn, high yellow flame, liquid fuel dripping out of the manifold, etc. until the generator heats up enough and is capable of atomizing raw liquid fuel.
Once the generator is hot, it can atomize liquid fuel. Placing the lighting lever in the down position delivers liquid fuel to the generator. The liquid fuel atomizes inside the hot generator. Then the atomized, hot fuel vapor moves into the manifold where it mixes easily and efficiently with air. That makes for a beautiful blue flame at the burner.
I've found it best to leave the lighting lever in the up position until the flame turns blue even if it's longer than Coleman's instruction to "leave the lever up for one minute" and even if I have to pump up the tank some more to make up for the air that's getting siphoned off. Leaving the lighting lever up gives the manifold and burner the extra air it needs to get to an efficient fuel/air mixture sooner, and it also heats up the generator more. Flipping the lighting lever down when the flame is yellow only introduces more raw liquid fuel to the already rich mixture, so the yellow flame will persist.
If I flip the lighting lever down and the flame turns yellow again, it means the generator is still not hot enough to atomize liquid fuel. I'll then flip the lever back up to get a hot blue flame back and give the generator a chance to heat up some more.
By the way, the lever isn't an "on/off" switch. It's a manual, sliding valve that moves between the raw fuel and air/vapor portions of the tank. Go ahead and set it at any position between fully up and fully down that facilitates your efforts to get the generator heated up so that you can then place the lever in the fully down position.
This solved my problem when using the stove in cold temperatures at high altitudes and made for a quicker blue flame at normal altitudes and warm temps.
Set my arm on fire 5-6 times til I was bored being ignorant of this winter camping
Learned more from reading this than watching this lame video ..ty
Great explanation
Good to know, thanks for the helpful comment.
That was a fine explanation of the fuel lever and helped me more to understand the differences for high altitude and cold weather starts. Thank you! 👍😆
A couple of issues. 1. No need to worry about putting your thumb over the pump knob hole after pumping. There is a check valve in there to keep the air from escaping. 2. You won't get the big yellow flames if you open the valve all the way, all at once. This is how the instant lighting system is designed to work. Pump it up. Lighting lever up. Hold your lighted match or lighter to the burner and quickly open the valve ALL THE WAY or at least two full turns. Not two partial turns, two complete revolutions. All the way works every time. As soon as it lights, you can start pumping to keep the pressure up. Pressure is your friend here. It atomizes the fuel better. Try it, you'll like it. If you don't believe me, read the instructions on the wind screen in front of you.
Great explanation! Thank you!
That's the way I do it too.
I've been out of the navy since 2000. You're obviously a lifer, and your wife loves to take big cock while you're at sea. Stupid and over-confident. Telltale signs of a fukkeen looser. Nice moustache, lol.
How often do you have to pump it
@@Last_Chance. Depends on how long you run it, at what power level you run it, and how full the fuel tank is. But you can pump it up easily while cooking.
In short, not often enough to be a burden at all. Even on a big 426 3 burner running all 3 on high, which is unusual, I'd estimate 10 minutes or so between to maintain full power. If you want to keep your number of re-pumps to a minimum, don't fill the tank as much. But you will have to pump more to start, it will just hold pressure longer.
When cooking on one burner at medium to low heat, you may not have to pump it after the initial two pump sessions.(pre and post lighting because the instant lighting feature does use a significant amount of air).
When the tank is full, there is less air space, which will need to be replenished, but with only a few pumps, sooner than a 1/4 full tank with lots of air that required a lot of pumps to pressurize initially. So, the total number of pumps will be about the same regardless for a full to empty tank. When you see a decrease in power, pump until you get what you need.
You will get a feel for it the more you use them. You can tell by how hard it is to pump. If it's not giving much resistance, the pressure is low. Hard to pump, pressure high.
I occasionally see inexperienced users complain about having to pump all the time and find that they still have the lighting lever up. Remember to put it down when its warmed up.
DO NOT confuse the lighting lever on these stoves with the cleaning needle lever, which looks identical, on some other single burner stoves and lanterns. They don't do anything close to the same thing.
Hope this makes sense and answered your question.
Thanks for the tips! I just pulled mine out of my shed(which was left behind from the previous homeowner). It was there and rusty when i bought the house.. It's appears to be about 50yrs old. It was in bad shape but after watching this and doing a quick rehab, she's cooking again!! I've been wanting to play with this thing for 16yrs(since I moved here) and today it happened🙏
This is something I would have asked my dad about, but he passed away a few years ago. Thank you very much for filling in for him. I was going to go buy a brand new one, but my roommate has an old kerosene one in the basement. I figured I would at least search TH-cam for an instruction video before buying a new one.
Sorry for your loss. We are glad to help. Thank you.
Kerosene stoves operate a bit differently than gasoline (aka white gas) stoves. This is because gasoline (white gas is just low octane gasoline) is flammable, but kerosene is only combustible. That means kerosene is harder to light than white gas. To my knowledge, Coleman does not make kerosene stoves; although, they may have many decades ago. Even during WWII, Coleman was making gasoline stoves for the US troops.
For what it’s worth, Coleman does make a kerosene pressure lantern (model 639)
Thank you Practical Preper, I've just purchased a Coleman Camp Stove and you have taught me how to operate it.
By the way I am a Military Veteran myself. Cheers
You only need to keep your thumb over the hole while pumping. When you're done pumping, you don't have to keep your thumb over the hole in the pump. A check valve will maintain pressure in the fuel tank while you tighten the pump plunger.
Yup.
I have a similar, but older model of this stove. I liked your video very much. Three additional tips:
1) when filling with fuel, do not fill the tank "lippin'-full;" this leaves an adequate air space for pressurization. If filled absolutely full, oftentimes the stove will flare up dangerously since raw, unvaporized fuel is being delivered to the burner.
2) the slight leakage where the generator tube inserts into the right-side burner unit can be lessened or completely avoided by putting the stove's carrying handle up instead of being between the fuel tank & stove case.
3) after reading other comments, remember this Very Important Point: use ONLY Stove/Lantern Fuel (aka"white gas/petrol) in these older stoves (automotive unleaded gas CAN be used in emergencies, but is NOT recommended, and kerosene - "paraffin" to those if a U.K. persuasion - will NOT work unless you have bought a newer stove that SPECIFICALLY states it can use kerosene.
Hi whats better for this stove - Petrol 92 Octane or 95 octane?
Uh oh, grabbed a bottle of klean strip that said fuel on it and after filling my tank, I realize it's actually denatured alcohol. Would this cause any damage to the tank? My oil lamps are running well with denatured alcohol but the way the generator is set up I think I'm better off with Naphtha.
@@matthewstephens7509 Sorry just saw this post. I have no idea. If you do decide to lite off the stove make sure you have a buddy with a Fire Extinguisher and wear proper PPE. Personally I would just drain it and refill it. Hope this helps.
@@matthewstephens7509 I suggest against using alcohol in oil lamps. It will turn said lamps into a molotov cocktail!
In Canada I use Coleman camp fuel or naphta as we call it up here.
Bought a Coleman 413g from a garage sale for $2.00. Guy said it hadn't been used in 35 years, but after I oiled the leather gasket, I got sufficient pressure and she fired right up (and had half a tank of fuel)! Thanks a ton for the tips.
No prob. Glad to help.
What do you oil it with? It wasn't explained in the video...
@@lyndakarczewski5803 I just used canola or vegetable oil. May need to do that again this summer as the leather soaked it up pretty quickly.
People got lazy and started using propane. Those naphta stoves are better.
Thank you so much for this. The oiling of that rubber gasket made all the difference.
Got ours today for 20 bucks. Hurricane ready for the east coast of Canada.
Thanks again.
Im a visual learner, i usually have to re-read directions and get frustrated sometimes, especially when the directions are not very descriptive. Thank you for the video, now I dont have to mess around with figuring this thing out on my own. Many commenters helped too.
Love these stoves. I had mine for 20 yrs. Its been on camping trips and thrugh 3 major power outages. I just hope it lasts another 20 yrs
I just picked up a Coleman "Generator" camp stove 412-5621 at a garage sale for $5.00!!! It's in beautiful condition and thanks to your video I know how to run it. Thank you very much.
You are Welcomed. Glad to help and hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
Last year I picked up a Coleman 2 burner camp stove 413E at a thrift shop for $5. Looked brand new like nobody had ever used it. Brought it home and rinsed out the fuel tank, filled it with fuel and got both burners to light easily. Pretty dang good score for a brand new stove for $5. Later last year I was back in the same thrift store and they had another stove in there, a 3 burner model this time 426C, you could tell it had been lightly used maybe a couple times. Picked it up for $15, it works great as well.
good stove in a power outage
I got mine at the thrift store too!! Score!!
William Todd Wow I thought I did well to pick up my colman stove at a car sale for £19.50 it's worth £40
What kind of fuel can I use.
@@skywatcher856
If your stove has a red fuel tank, Coleman fuel or its equivalent i.e. Crown stove fuel from Walmart "much cheaper".
If your stove/lantern has a grey tank you can also use unleaded gasoline but it burns dirtier.
Thank you for this video. We are avid campers but we are using a more modern Colman stove with the propane canisters. I found a Colman 425B stove at a yard sale for $5. We were so excited to find it and are looking forward to using it on the next camping trip.
Theres something soo soothing about an old lantern or stove hissing away. It's like the perfect white noise when camping. I did go a little nuts on offerup and got a 425b stove a 220f and. 200a lantern to go with my 220b lantern and 530 pocket stove that i already had thanks to grandpa. Im ready to take my 2 year son camping!! Pumped up more than a coleman lantern. Okay that was a tad nerdy.
Nice video for beginners to coleman stoves, a few points if you ever do an edit or redo of this video. 1. when pouring the fuel you actually want to hold the gas can 180 degrees from where you had it, while you do hold it horizontally the hole should be a the high point not the low, with a full can fuel would spill. 2. there is no need to hold your thumb on the hole while tightening the pump. it is a one way valve that wont allow air to escape even without your thumb on it just have to cover hole while pumping. 3. it is a bad idea to blow out flames on stoves or lanterns, a flame indicates that gas is still cycling through, much safer to let it burn off then to allow a build up of gas to occur. again nice video, looking forward to more
We used to do a lot if camping back in the 60's and 70's ...My Dad said that the can of white gas was to expensive So he burned regular unleaded gas in our stoves and lanterns .never had any problems with them ..I love those old colman stoves .....I live on the west coast of Florida , This last hurricane that was heading for us Had me out digging in the shed to get our old colman stove out ..I filled it up with gas and tried pumping it up and it wouldn't pump ..I ran up to Ace Hardware and bought a pump repair kit , Put it in and Presto magic .the stove works great ...The hurricane leveled the Bahamas and turned north " Thank God " ..So I've got my stove ready for the next hurricane that comes buzzing this way ...Prayers to those people in the Bahamas as they rebuild their lives
I just brought one yesterday,I didn’t know if I wanted propane or the gas , I’m new at this so when I read the comments I feel good about purchasing it, thank you for explaining how to start it up .
Nice video, but you failed to mention after you light it and it is running a couple of minutes you need to pump it up a few more times.
Great video. I just received a very old coleman camp stove from my father in law who passed away. I just replaced the leather gasket and the thing fired up like nothing. Like you said these stoves are bulletproof. Thats why they still sell the original model decades later.
RSH21 I recieved two from my Step Grandma. Where do you get the gaskets, and what oil did he use? I need working before Friday.
sorry for the late reply man. i literally ran out for two weeks to camp the day after i fixed mine. i got the gasket at canadian tire, any hardware store that sells camping stuff has then it was 6.50 canadian dollars. i just used olive oil to lube it up cos it was handy
RSH21 That is what I ended up doing, taking some time, having to do over and over. They were bone dry. Have been sitting for probably more years than I have been alive. My step grandma is 85 now. Ended up working wonders. Got them both working. They are great. I did call Colemen, too. They recommended 3in1 oil.
What was the oil you out on the leather groment in the beginning?
Excellent video but I wish you would have explained more about the oil. He kind of went over that really fast
i came to the comments in search of this answer also
You poured from the gallon can with the hole on the bottom. They are supposed to be held with the hole on the top. This allows air into the can and offers much better control of the pour.
found an old one of these at an estate sale, and it was made in usa, its a bit dirty but it works and now i just need something to cook on it.
Thank you brother. My father in law has one from when his mom bought it used at a garage sale over 40 years ago and I’m in the process of restoring it a little. My wife and I will be using one of these (the earlier models) to cook while on our way up to Alaska from Nc. Should be a blast!
Light it outside and be ready to jump back, you don't want to melt your face off on an initial light up, if something goes wrong. Once it is all lit nice, take it indoors or in your tent or where ever.
I have the sear version, I bought it used thank you for your video because... I would've never exactly new how to start it if it wasn't for your video... have a beautiful weekend!! 😀
thank you for the very detailed instruction. Haven't used a stove like this in many years but just got a beautiful 425 so needed to brush up on starting Many thanks
From Costa Rica: Many years ago, people that couldn't buy electric or gas stove used chinesse kerosene stoves. I remember that 45 years ago. I was not sure that coleman stove works fine with kerosene. That information motives me to buy a coleman stove. Thank you . In Costa Rica we say "canfin" instead kerosene because many years ago people in my country didn't understad english so they read: "can fine kerosene". They say!
These Coleman stoves are excellent for cooking hot meals when camping anytime or traveling ,or a weather related power outage that last for days. I also keep my butane gas grill ready as a backup all year round. The best things about the little Coleman are #1 simple #2 inexpensive #3 portable #4 cheap to maintain an restore.They have basically remained the same for years which is great .
My parents had one in their house when they passed and I kept it. Thanks for the video
Sorry for your loss. In regard to the stove, no problem, these guys last for decades.
That's not how you pour. You want the hole to be on top. That allows air to be pulled in from the top of the stream. It will give you a nice steady stream with no gurgling or spillage. Same goes with 5 gal buckets, pour with the spout on top.
Thanks! I wanted to say that too. Glad someone else saw that.
Correct
Just bought a 425b today for $15 that looks clean like yours. Only prob is the gas cap gasket. I switch caps with my pocket stove and works perfect.
I didnt know you had to put the lever down after lighting and wondered why i was losing pressure soo quickly.
If You pour with the spout of the can at the top, air can get into the can without the fuel chug, chug chugging out as the air try's to displace the fluid as you pour it out.... js.
Thank you for the thorough video. As simple as it may look, there's always good tips to use that you provided. Greatly appreciated. 👍🏼
No worries, and you are welcomed.
You don't have to disassemble the pump to lubricate the leather. Just put a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil through the small hole on the retaining ring (not the pump plunger). However, If you need to replace or inspect the leather, sure remove the plunger and lubricate it at that time.
And when the leather is bone dry, it is way easier to remove and lubricate than putting in drops.
@@practicalprepping6176 I'm disappointed that your video didn't tell us what kind of oil for us novices, I'm assuming 3-in-1 oil, or will any oil do, including something like cooking oil?
Actually I did. You were not listening. I said, you can use any kind of oil.
@@practicalprepping6176 Did they also teach you to lie in the military or did you learn that on your own?
@@hylomane whatever dude
Awesome video! Thanks so much! I bought one second hand and was told it was propane...but it’s not, and I was totally lost on how to use it.
Glad to have helped!
Thank you for this video! I bought a used one and was a bit confused when reading the instructions. I am going to do a trial run before I go camping this weekend.
Cool video. I have one for backup in case of emergency. Your comment section was also informative. Thank you!
Yes, they are awesome stoves. Thank you for the kind words.
Thank you. It wasn't clear to me what type of oil is put on the leather gasket.
I like how you didn't edit out the part where the little pump handle didn't go right in. It shows people like me who are actually trying to learn how to use that stove that it may take a few tries.
jack johnson Thanks, I try to keep the videos short, but informative. Glad it helped! I hate when the TV folks make it look so easy.
On cold days : put a spot of fule paste under the genarater. Light it to warm up the gen. Will help light faster. Also on single burners use a wind screen, not only for wind, but to reflect heat back at the tank.
A little lighter fluid works well too
I'll second the wind screen. They really do speed up cooking time. Mine is old, think it's a "Fire Maple" brand ?? Tall, narrow folding aluminium panels.
You mention oiling the leather gasket but don't say what with? Is that white fuel you are putting on there? Without rubber gloves? Helpful video since I just picked one of these up at Goodwill for $5. But not too technical.
I have the same camp stove i got it as a gift from a friend but i didnt know why the pump wasn't gaining pressure BUT now i know thank you!
On my stove I always have the handle in the up position before I attach the tank. It allows the generator tube to insert fully into the receptacle. On my stove (413-E) it makes a bit of difference.
When I got mine, a ( 413-A), The photographs that the seller had listed showed two large nails poking up just below the grill behind the front panel.
This interested me, what could they be?
Turns out, just as you said. The previous owner never lifted the handle up and had used the nails to hold the tank in place.
There are holes in the tank retaining tabs that the nails went through.
For the life of my stove, I may have been the first one to fit the tank correctly.
Good comment. Informative.
Cheers !
Love it. My first one is from around 1980 and I still have it. Subbed to see more
Thank you for the demonstration 🇺🇸
I just picked two of these up off the side of the road from yard sale leftovers. Free. One needs the tank. I'm sure I can find one cheap on eBay.
Don't you just love roadside freebies? I just picked up my Coleman 4:25f at an "everything left over is free" estate sale yesterday!
How do you depressurize the system when you're all done
Wait until the burner and generator (the tube from the tank to the stove burner) completely cool. Then remove the tank and generator assembly by sliding it out of the stove. Then carry it away from any flames, e.g. campfire, or heat sources (e.g. lanterns or heaters). Then you can SLOWLY unscrew the fuel cap. You will hear a hiss as the pressurized air escapes. Do this slowly and away from heat sources because the vapor is flammable.
Looking into one of these stoves. What is the advantage and disadvantage compared to the propane cylinder ones? These kind of seem like a little bit of a pain not sure
When storing, should you relieve the pressure in the tank (safely obviously)?
What kind of oil are you using to lubricate the leather seal? Thanks.
I've seen motor oil used, I used mineral oil (even baby oil if you have it). They're all petroleum products 👍
I bought one of these off a friend a couple of years ago having no clue what I was actually buying. I thought it was a propane stove. I finally got it out to use this weekend and I didn't know what in the world I was looking at. I am not a mechanically inclined gal, so I don't think this will be a trip to experiment with this thing as I'm camping by myself with two small children. I don't want to blow us up. I really need a stove so I am super sad I'm going to have to go buy one now. Thanks for the video though for when I am ready to try this thing out. I just wish the camera guy panned in closer. I'm a details person when I'm learning something new.
Thank you for the input. Next time I do a video, I'll remember to pan in move.
I just bought a used 424 and that helps a lot, thanks
Any Time! Hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
@@practicalprepping6176 I'll be lighting mine up this weekend
I just got one of these grills it’s has 3 tops on it. I am gonna use it today. I just can’t wait to start it up. I might just start it now that way when we done I fishing I can act like a pro at this shit. 😂😂😂
Mineral oil works very good for lubing the pump leather, i have heard of guys using ballistol as it is a leather preservative and gun oil all in one, i believe coleman makes a retrofit kit that replaces the leather with a rubber piece.
Yep my 424 has the rubber plunger. I had to replace it. What I do know being a gunsmith and a repairer of air rifles is that ordinary oil will destroy rubber piston washers. Best stuff is mineral for the leather or I use silicone oil. It's good for air rifle washers so good for the rubber pistons on the 424.
Greta Video. How often do you have to pump up the fuel tank?
Thank you! Helped me solve my problem with it having no pressure!
No problem, glad to help.
Well done video. Have not used one since my scouting years. Thank you!
The older ones like mine has a little hole that you can drip allile oil in the generator! Gun oil or 3 n1 oil works fine!!
Yep. Any oil works.
Just got one today at thrift shop for $8. I was thrilled
That's great!
Those naphta stoves are better than the propane ones especially in really cold weather. Gives off better heat than propane too.
what kind of oil are you using on the leather gasket?
"You can use a cheap funnel"... yes you can, BUT you better make sure that cheap funnel is cleaned of all dust and dirt first or you'll have issues with tube and nozzle clogging up. AND you can over fill the tank easily, which isn't good either. You need the head space for the vapors and the pressure build up. You're better off getting the Coleman funnel with the filter paper and it won't allow you to overfill the tank.
Got a 1976 Coleman stove from a friend today. He said if I could get it to work I could have it.
I have not used mine in 20 years so I will oil the leather gasket you mentioned. Thanks for the video, It's the first time I hear about this type of maintenance.
min 4:51 - Correct me if I'm wrong but this stove does NOT take Kerosene, only Naphta/White Gas/Coleman Fuel, which are all the same thing. Kerosene (aka Lamp Oil) is more oil-like, almost like diesel.
That is correct. There are stoves/lanterns specifically designed to burn kerosene but this isn't one of them.
I know this is an old comment. But you can use kerosene in these old stoves. You just need a way to get the generator tube nicely heated first.
What I've done in the past is cut the bottom of a pop can off and put it under the generator tube with some fuel in it. Light that first and let it heat up before continuing like normal.
Probably not ideal but it works in a pinch.
What kind of “oil” are you taking about to coat the pump cup with. Love the AC compressor turning on!
It doesn't matter. Basically anything you have on hand.
@@practicalprepping6176 would bar oil work?
@@harvardmurrayinc Yes
@@practicalprepping6176 Motor Oil?
@@PhatteMatte sure
Why are you pushing so hard on the pump when your done its a one way valve you don’t need to
What are you using to lubricate the leather gasket? You say "oil" but what oil is best?? Thanks for the very informative video..
You can use any type of oil. Iuse what ever I have on hand.
K Y
I just bought one just like yours for $20.00. This video is incredibly helpful. I was actually thinking of converting it to use camping propane tanks for convenience. Do you know if anyone has done that before?
Yes. You can buy a propane adapter for this purpose that accepts the one pound green propane bottles, or you can add a gas hose to connect the propane adapter to a 20 pound bbq gas cylinder. Then you have the option of using liquid fuel as designed or propane, depending on your circumstance.
@@moregrouchy Thanks, I have already done it and so far it has worked great. In addition, I found an adapter that allows me to refill the green camping bottles.
@@moregrouchy Thank you for this comment. I was going to post that exact info but didn't want to repeat it if someone had already posted it.
What kind of oil are you using to saturate the grommet?
Hi " what kind of oil goes on the pump, leather part? Thanks
Pretty much any oil, mineral neatsfoot, vegetable, 3 in 1, etc...
Is it cheaper to buy liquid propane or this 10$ camp fuel or better to buy the colaman stove that can hook up on 15lb tank. So the 15lb tank that we can exchange at grocery store or gas station is pressurized form. I was buying this stove for 10 dollar but the seller keep telling me you can't use car gadoline. I called home depot and they only know the 1lb or 15lb pressurized containers.
What year would you say that stove is in your video
I usually pump the tank when it's off the stove it's easier
i am left handed and it works so much better of the box
Just picked up a used one . Thanks for the vid!!
No problem. Thank you for watching.
What kind of oil for the leather gasket?
It is much easier if you are pumped outside before attached to the unit
What kind of oil. You need to put for th gasket? Vegetal motor?
How do you guys clean the inside of your fuel tanks? I recently picked up a 432A that looks like it's barely been used, but there's a small amount of sediment in the bottom of the fuel tank. Also, the colour inside the fuel tank appears to have a reddish hue to it. Not sure if it's rust or just the actual colour of the inside. I heard of some people using vinegar to clean and then washing it out with water, letting it dry completely, and then coating the inside with a bit of engine oil. Hoping to hear from someone who's maybe done the job a few times before I go and ruin a nice stove. Thanks
I usually go to Lowes or Home Depot and grab either NAPA or one of the other solvents and flush out the tank. Then I blow it out with compressed air. If you don't have a compressor, use canned air. Hope that helps.
@@practicalprepping6176 thank you for the help! Do you reckon it'd be necessary, or even helpful, to add a coat of oil to the inside of the tank after drying in order to prevent corrosion? This is my first vintage Coleman stove (and probably not the last)
This is so cool. Thank you for your video. I saw a couple of very dirty ones today but I couldn't tell if they were still good. If I am going to buy one of these, what are the things I should be aware of for safety measure?
+Sourdough Girl The big thing is to make sure the tank does not leak. The easiest way is to fill it up and pressurize it away from any source of heat/fire. As always, use eye protection. If you see fluid leaking out, you know you have a hole.
Thank you for your reply. I probably will pass on those because I don't want to buy whatever required to pressurize it for the test. Still, very cool video.
It's just the fuel used to light it. It sounds worse than it is
Do I need to fill completely for the test? In that case what size of fuel do I need to buy?
any gallon can of Coleman camp fuel. fill it abouy 3/4 full
sadly we just can't get camp fuel or white gas here in the UK except mail-order at excruciating prices. So I'm stuck with dual fuel stoves.
Just so everyone knows, Coleman fuel is basically the same as naptha that you can find in the paint aisle at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. That is, Coleman fuel actually is naptha, except they add a corrosion inhibitor to it, or so they say. I've never had a problem with corrosion so I'm not sure if it's a sell gimmick or not.
So is naptha cheaper than Coleman fuel?
@@lyndakarczewski5803 It's not cheaper at the Home Depot where I'm at. In fact it's significantly more expensive. But if you need fuel it's there. I think the most economical naphtha fuel is the Crown brand camping fuel sold at Walmart. It's a few bucks cheaper than Coleman and it's usually sold right next to it on the same shelf.
best way is too buy the red spout that will screw onto the coleman can. incert spout till it reaches in the bottom of spout with o ring. then push down till pressure equalizes then slowly remove. this is cause u will loose some fuel if u pull it out too fast.
I wish you would have shown a close up of what you were doing
Thank you, this was very helpful.
Glad to help out. Hope you enjoy your new stove.
Excellent video. I was wondering since you know Coleman Camp Fuel can be expensive and as of this writing it is close to $14.00 per gallon, have you ever entertained the idea of making white from gasoline at a fraction of the cost of the Coleman fuel? Making white gas consists of removing the dies and additives from unleaded, ethanol-free gasoline via distillation.
I am also a prepper and have made several gallons of white gas for such emergency situations that are natural or man made. Currently I can make camp fuel for about $3.00 to $4.00 per gallon. I do not sell the white gas I only help others make their own if they are interested. What do you think?
Thank you. Dave Whitegas
No, never thought of it. It would be a nice video though.
Dave Whitegas
I have made a video showing people the basic process for making white gas. Look up my video, Dave Whitegas, Let's Make White Gas Camp Fuel #1. And if you decide to make your own white gas I am giving away a free manual to get people started. Thank you for your video. People always need a good video of instruction. And thank you for your service.
Thanks for teach us Sr.
Can you buy replacement parts for this? Found my dads from like 30 years + ago hasn't been used in all that time. Don't want to get rid of it but don't want to just have a usless stove antique
Yes, just look on line. www.oldcolemanparts.com/
I finally found one at an estate sale.
Stooooooked
I just swooped one of these old units for 5 bucks ☺️
Me too.
My coleman stove has a leak at the on/off/lite/high value. I've taken it off by unscrewing the cover and pulling off the dial. What would you recommend using on the threads. plumbers puddy?
I used a wrench to take off the thing..that is where I'm wondering about the puddy?
If you have to keep your thumb on the pump hole to prevent pressure leaking out your tank has a bad check valve
Great Video ! Please help me with the following. 1) What is the total cost of all the things you listed in the video ? 2) How long does the Gas Last for cooking every day ?
+UFIC1 The stove can run new can run around a hundred US Dollars or used from 5 USD on up. The gas averages around 15 USD a gallon, multitool varies in price but you can get a cheap one for under ten USD, use any cheap oil to lubricate the gasket: 3 in 1, veggie, olive oil, motor oil, you get the idea.
+UFIC1 In regards to how long the fuel lasts, it really depends on what you are cooking. For example, I was doing a cooking demo a while back and I had the pot on simmer and after 6 hours I had to refill the fuel tank. Other times when I was doing cooking, I was able to "nurse" the fuel for two days; the meals were quick, easy to make kind.
Hope this helped.
Thanks for the information ! Have a Great Weekend !
My Dad always just burned unleaded gasoline in out colman stoves and lanterns and never had a problem with them
You did say what kind of oil, do u mean cooking oil??
I use some motor oil. But I'm sure cooking oil would work fine.
@@johnblaisdell7885 Use Neatsfoot oil to recondition the leather with your fingers.....just like we used to do with automotive/truck seals that were leather.
That was my question too.
@@keithbrookshire Neatsfoot oil has been the recommended oil for leather seals since before I was a kid. Nothing has changed unless some synthetic oil is now recommended. Motor oil and cooking oil are just guesses. Eventually, the white gas vapors will wash out the seal and require more Neatsfoot oil. There'rs a guy on TH-cam who has maybe a three part vid series on completely servicing and rebuilding these stoves. The only real problems I have ever seen have been inside the generator. It does come apart and is very serviceable. His vids are worth a look if for nothing more than to aquatint yourself with how these stoves work and service.
@@kevinfetner7983 kevin could you provide a link to this 3 part series? Thank you
I am done with propane stoves after going on a scout troop outing for snow camp, waking up in the morning after snow and 10 degree temps, and the propane cooking equipment is frozen
I know your pain!
Every home should store one of these under their kitchen sinks in event of a natural disaster or lengthy power outage for saving food from your now dead freezer. I use marine fondue fuel for mine.
What kind of oil did you use on the leather thingy?
Any old oil. It really doesn't matter
k y jell
Bar chain oil. Thick.
My 425b key slides on the valve shaft, doesnt stick out and the key tab fold. The valve shaft has tab area so when the key is pulled out it catches and opens the valve.
What was the point of messing with the leather grommet at the beginning of the video? You took it out and squeeze it and then put it back in. What was the reason for doing that?
He oiled it.