Thank you for the video, but i find these tutorials much better without music and much better with narration instead. Everyone needs the info or they wouldnt be watching and odds are most people dont even like the music
Thanks for this. I haven't been able to get the sonic pad to connect to my cr-10 smart pro. Turns out that trying to flash the printer with a usb drive as per the instructions does not work and needed to be flashed with a sd card, after that the sonic pad connected instantly
hi man, I updated mine here and it stopped recognizing the USB on the back... how do you connect the USB on the back so the cable is not connected to the printer? Do you know how to solve? and the camera only accepts the one from Creality? and which file does it recognize to generate the visualization?
Hi Chris, thanks for your video! I noticed, you have the laser engraver for your S1 Pro also. Is it possible to use the engraver with the sonic pad? Thanks in advance!
As of now, the Sonic Pad does not support the laser module. But, switching to stock firmware and back to sonic is easy and quick. If you already have the firmwares save in an sd card, it only takes 20 seconds maybe to switch
@@pde9165 It depends on the engraver you have for your Ender machine. I just setup the Laser Module kit which is the 5w laser with the 'L-Bracket' that fixes to the extruder. This one comes with it's own processor called the 'Creality Falcon' which you plug into your computer to send the job from laser GRBL to the Falcon processor to the laser and you disconnect the X, Y and Z axis' and replace them with the wire that come from the falcon brain. With this I was able to run the Sonic Pad with my printer for 3d printing and the Laser Module kit with the Falcon processor for engraving without having to flash between Marlin and Klipper just to use your engraver. Hope this helps.
Hi. First, Thank you for this Video. I´ve ordered this printer and the Sonic Pad too. My Question is now, when i want to use the laser engraving Module ? Can i simply disconnect the Sonic Pad to work with the Laser Module ? Or do i need to Flash the Creality Original Firmware back on the Printer ?
Thanks for your feedback ! Just order mine, but i have a last question 😅 i wanted to known if i have to change my slicer setting (increase print speed, i use Prusa) for print faster, or if the Pad will do it by itself. Thanks ✌️
@@anthonyguenat8174 i would recommend using the profiles made by creality to work with Sonic Pad. You can download them from their website. If you want to continue using prusa, you can just use the creality profiles as a guide to adjust your prusa profiles. So you'll have an idea on how to sey your speed, acce, etc.
You can do that by using Moonraker plugin from Cura marketplace, either select a check box to print immediately after upload, or take full control of Sonic Pad from a web browser entering its IP address on local network, if you don't want to print right away.
Hi! I picked the one that matches my main board. The most certain way to check it, is by opening the bottom cover of your printer and taking a look at the mainboard
Hello, During setup, my sonic pad is controlling the print bed to move all the way back, however it tries to keep going making an awful noise as I reach for the power button to turn it off. I'm running the Ender 3 S1 Plus and selected that in the settings. Any idea what could be wrong? Also, the USB that I'm connecting to is in front correct? Or is there another one somewhere that I'm missing?
@@BruhBronxy It took me a minute watching it to figure it out. It was because in the instructions they say to tighten the bed all the way down. This actually lowered the bed lower than it should have to where it was hitting the back stepper motor and not hitting the limit switch back there first. So the grinding was it trying to keep moving but because the bed was too low, it was hitting. I had replaced the springs to stiffer springs, but they were a little shorter, so I believe that's why it was hitting if lowered too low. I may get some spacer blocks or something to put under them to raise the bed up just a little so I can tighten it down all the way. But for now I just have to remember not to tighten it all the way and work my way up from there. Thanks for the suggestion though. I appreciate you trying to help.
I tried to test splicing the normal profiles just to see the difference or if I need to make something a bit higher quality... when I go to splice "Normal" I get the error, "Unable to Slice with the current Settings. The following settings have errors: Small Layer Printing Temperature" I had to bump up the printing temperature by 10 degrees to get this error to go away... is this a problem? Will I be printing too hot?
With the Sonic Pad in mind; Which is the lowest cost Ender you can buy from which to add the with the Sonic Pad upgrade (don't need the S1 Pros fancy touch screen?), the All Metal HotEnd upgrade and the water cooling upgrade (if needed at all)?
With the Sonic Pad in mind, which means you want speed, i would go with S1 or S1 pro because of direct drive and the abl is really good feature too. But you can get the v2's and should work also as they are in the list of supported printers. If theres a micro center near you, you can grab one for $99 if im not mistaken
@@shrimperlincs3395 honestly for me, the water cooler is just for show. I mean its not like a CPU in computers that decreases performance when its too hot. In 3d printers, maybe in the future, when printers are printing in super speed. But at the moment, i dont see any benefits from it. Unless you have extra cash, and just wanted to maximize the upgrades of your printer.
The water cooling is handy if you are wanting to print something that requires a heated enclosure because you can have the radiator outside the enclosure. With fans in a heated enclosure you'll just be blowing hot air onto the heat break. Not sure I would trust the creality fittings though. Also, your best bet is to buy an ender 3 v2 and upgrade it with the dual z axis, cr touch, enomaker spring steel pei bed, and sprite pro extruder. You basically end up with an s1 pro for about $150 less than buying an s1 pro, and you get to learn your machine inside and out by doing the upgrades!
@@chriss1671 ohh do you mean when you create the flash SD card ? If so after setting up the sonic pad I actually deleted and formatted the actual card…
It depends on what you are printing. For smaller pieces, for example a benchy, you will save around half the time. For bigger prints, you can save more time because the printer will have enough time to accelerate. Im still learning to use klipper. Im sure people who has more experience can further tune theirs.
IMHO the Sonic Pad does not currently add much functionality unless the printer is being used for production purposes rather than as a development tool. But then again that may just be in my case.
Cheers for the video, the fastest I have managed a CHEP cube was 28 mins, so thats a good time saving and yours looked better than mine, these Sonic pads are hard to get hold of at the minute thou, next ones available don't look like they will be here until November :(
For the price, its really worth it specially for people who doesnt want to go through all the hassles of finding a raspberry pi, installing of screen, printing a case, and headache from all the setup and reasearch just to make it work. Plus it the sonic pad looks good and very responsive. Plug and play almost👍
You can do that by using Moonraker plugin from Cura marketplace, either select a check box to print immediately after upload, or take full control of Sonic Pad from a web browser entering its IP address on local network, if you don't want to print right away.
@@Dimsumlezako what I'm trying to find out is once I'm done in Cura, will it export the gcode file to the sonicpad via a usb, thumbdrive, sd card, or wifi? And will the laptop or computer need to stay running during the print or will it be able to be shut down?
I'd remove the music, and replace it with narration.
Always!
Having a sonic pad delivered today for my S1 Pro. I am very excited for the upgrade. Thanks for the video.
Хоть один человек нормально видео снял по подключению! ты супер! спасибо БРО!
Thank you for the video, but i find these tutorials much better without music and much better with narration instead. Everyone needs the info or they wouldnt be watching and odds are most people dont even like the music
Thanks for this. I haven't been able to get the sonic pad to connect to my cr-10 smart pro. Turns out that trying to flash the printer with a usb drive as per the instructions does not work and needed to be flashed with a sd card, after that the sonic pad connected instantly
Should we connect the 1 kg spool while using accelerometer and if the spool looses weight, then should we again do the accel thing?
Are you able to test the bed with accelerometer, only saw hotend
I did, but after i already created and uploaded this video. I didnt know how to do it at first, until i watched "the technology man"'s tutorial
Hey question. I didn't get screws for the g-sensor...are they button head m3x6 or m3x8 & how many do i need?
Thanks it looks like it wouldn’t be appropriate for LW-PLA. aka lightweight foaming PLA..?
Hi! I dont have any experience using LW-PLA, but i dont see why it would not work the Sonic Pad. Unless, printing LW requires to print at low speed.
Elegoo neptune 4 pro or creality ender 3 s1 pro + sonic pad?
hi man, I updated mine here and it stopped recognizing the USB on the back... how do you connect the USB on the back so the cable is not connected to the printer? Do you know how to solve? and the camera only accepts the one from Creality? and which file does it recognize to generate the visualization?
Hi Chris,
thanks for your video!
I noticed, you have the laser engraver for your S1 Pro also.
Is it possible to use the engraver with the sonic pad?
Thanks in advance!
As of now, the Sonic Pad does not support the laser module. But, switching to stock firmware and back to sonic is easy and quick. If you already have the firmwares save in an sd card, it only takes 20 seconds maybe to switch
Ok. Thanks for your answer!
@@pde9165 It depends on the engraver you have for your Ender machine. I just setup the Laser Module kit which is the 5w laser with the 'L-Bracket' that fixes to the extruder. This one comes with it's own processor called the 'Creality Falcon' which you plug into your computer to send the job from laser GRBL to the Falcon processor to the laser and you disconnect the X, Y and Z axis' and replace them with the wire that come from the falcon brain. With this I was able to run the Sonic Pad with my printer for 3d printing and the Laser Module kit with the Falcon processor for engraving without having to flash between Marlin and Klipper just to use your engraver. Hope this helps.
In resonance calibration after finishing x-axis it tells me to change the accelerometer to calibrate y-axis
Hi Chris assuming I am not after speed, but is there a substantial improvement on print quality with the Sonic Pad. Thanks a heap.
At normal speed, theres not much difference that are noticeable. But as the speed goes up, thats where you will see the difference.
Hi. First, Thank you for this Video. I´ve ordered this printer and the Sonic Pad too. My Question is now, when i want to use the laser engraving Module ? Can i simply disconnect the Sonic Pad to work with the Laser Module ? Or do i need to Flash the Creality Original Firmware back on the Printer ?
Is the device playing the chill music channel from SiriusXM ?
Do you need to format the SD card before plugging into the sonic pad? Or does the Sonic pad do this for you?
Hi, thanks for your video ! Does the accelerometer come with the Sonic Pad ? If not, where did you buy it ? Thanks
Yes, it comes with the SP👍
Thanks for your feedback ! Just order mine, but i have a last question 😅 i wanted to known if i have to change my slicer setting (increase print speed, i use Prusa) for print faster, or if the Pad will do it by itself. Thanks ✌️
@@anthonyguenat8174 i would recommend using the profiles made by creality to work with Sonic Pad. You can download them from their website. If you want to continue using prusa, you can just use the creality profiles as a guide to adjust your prusa profiles. So you'll have an idea on how to sey your speed, acce, etc.
Can you still print wirelessly from Cura to the pad? I have my S1 Pro in the basement running Octoprint and it's great to send it wirelessly.
You can do that by using Moonraker plugin from Cura marketplace, either select a check box to print immediately after upload, or take full control of Sonic Pad from a web browser entering its IP address on local network, if you don't want to print right away.
Can I use Simplified 3D with the Sonic Pad. I'm just more familiar with that slicer.
Great job, thank you for the information
very interesting. thanks for sharing
Youre welcome!
I can see that there are two versions of E3 S1 Pro (time 0:43)... how do you know which one is yours?
Hi! I picked the one that matches my main board. The most certain way to check it, is by opening the bottom cover of your printer and taking a look at the mainboard
Thank you very much!
Hey Chris, for the measuring resonance sensor. Where do I get the mount to mount it at?
3d print it
Where did you get the STL?
The progress graph appears to run "backward" from right to left (counter clock-wise) instead of what seems normal clock-wise rotation.
Hello,
During setup, my sonic pad is controlling the print bed to move all the way back, however it tries to keep going making an awful noise as I reach for the power button to turn it off.
I'm running the Ender 3 S1 Plus and selected that in the settings. Any idea what could be wrong?
Also, the USB that I'm connecting to is in front correct? Or is there another one somewhere that I'm missing?
Try recalibrating the bed stepper motor.
@@BruhBronxy It took me a minute watching it to figure it out. It was because in the instructions they say to tighten the bed all the way down. This actually lowered the bed lower than it should have to where it was hitting the back stepper motor and not hitting the limit switch back there first. So the grinding was it trying to keep moving but because the bed was too low, it was hitting. I had replaced the springs to stiffer springs, but they were a little shorter, so I believe that's why it was hitting if lowered too low. I may get some spacer blocks or something to put under them to raise the bed up just a little so I can tighten it down all the way. But for now I just have to remember not to tighten it all the way and work my way up from there. Thanks for the suggestion though. I appreciate you trying to help.
What's the full list of currently supported Creality Printers on the first menu?
ENDER 3 S1 x2
ENDER 3 S1 PRO
ENDER 3 V2 ×4
@@chriss1671 Thank you. I'll wait to see if the add the CR-10 printers.
They have just added:
Ender-3 Pro
Ender-5 Plus
Ender-3 Max
Ender-3 S1 Plus
CR-10 Smart
CR-10S Pro V2
CR-10 V3
I tried to test splicing the normal profiles just to see the difference or if I need to make something a bit higher quality... when I go to splice "Normal" I get the error, "Unable to Slice with the current Settings. The following settings have errors: Small Layer Printing Temperature" I had to bump up the printing temperature by 10 degrees to get this error to go away... is this a problem? Will I be printing too hot?
Note: A mounting bracket for the accelerometer sensor (not supplied) is required!
is important save the previous firmware in some way?
With the Sonic Pad in mind; Which is the lowest cost Ender you can buy from which to add the with the Sonic Pad upgrade (don't need the S1 Pros fancy touch screen?), the All Metal HotEnd upgrade and the water cooling upgrade (if needed at all)?
With the Sonic Pad in mind, which means you want speed, i would go with S1 or S1 pro because of direct drive and the abl is really good feature too. But you can get the v2's and should work also as they are in the list of supported printers. If theres a micro center near you, you can grab one for $99 if im not mistaken
@@chriss1671 Thank you. That's helpful.
Would you ever see the need for the Creality Official Water Cooling for the Sprite HotEnd?
@@shrimperlincs3395 honestly for me, the water cooler is just for show. I mean its not like a CPU in computers that decreases performance when its too hot. In 3d printers, maybe in the future, when printers are printing in super speed. But at the moment, i dont see any benefits from it. Unless you have extra cash, and just wanted to maximize the upgrades of your printer.
The water cooling is handy if you are wanting to print something that requires a heated enclosure because you can have the radiator outside the enclosure. With fans in a heated enclosure you'll just be blowing hot air onto the heat break. Not sure I would trust the creality fittings though.
Also, your best bet is to buy an ender 3 v2 and upgrade it with the dual z axis, cr touch, enomaker spring steel pei bed, and sprite pro extruder. You basically end up with an s1 pro for about $150 less than buying an s1 pro, and you get to learn your machine inside and out by doing the upgrades!
@@john_jacob_jingleheimerschmidt Very helpful!
Haven't tried but being the stock display is useless, can it be unplugged?
Yes i removed my stock display and bracket. Put em in a drawer😅
Thank you very much friend, your video has helped me a lot
Any idea where I should place the accelerometer sensor with my CR-10 Smart ? i'm thinking of using velcro
It must be firmly mounted, it senses vibrations and movement and velcro isn't a solid method of mounting.
Hello, where did you get the ACCELEROMETER MOUNT it did not come with the sonic pad and I can't seem to find the STL file so that I can print it.
Hello! Stl file is inside the flash drive👍
@@chriss1671 ohh do you mean when you create the flash SD card ? If so after setting up the sonic pad I actually deleted and formatted the actual card…
Here you go. I uploaded them to thingiverse
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5671208
@@chriss1671 Awesome!! thank you... I'm downloading it now
Merci pour cette vidéo instructive.
Je n'ai pas bien compris à quoi sert le "accelerometer sensor". Pouvez-vous m'éclairer ?
Merci.
How much fast was it before/after you added the sonic pad
It depends on what you are printing. For smaller pieces, for example a benchy, you will save around half the time. For bigger prints, you can save more time because the printer will have enough time to accelerate. Im still learning to use klipper. Im sure people who has more experience can further tune theirs.
In the about section of the s1 pros screen it says a firmware with f4 in it. Does that mean i have the f4 chip or do i still need to open it to check?
the import profiles dont work, show me the message about quality...
how to back use existing screen sir
i gonna print this just recieved my pad today
Enjoy!!
IMHO the Sonic Pad does not currently add much functionality unless the printer is being used for production purposes rather than as a development tool. But then again that may just be in my case.
Cheers for the video, the fastest I have managed a CHEP cube was 28 mins, so thats a good time saving and yours looked better than mine, these Sonic pads are hard to get hold of at the minute thou, next ones available don't look like they will be here until November :(
For the price, its really worth it specially for people who doesnt want to go through all the hassles of finding a raspberry pi, installing of screen, printing a case, and headache from all the setup and reasearch just to make it work. Plus it the sonic pad looks good and very responsive. Plug and play almost👍
I just ordered it and they shipped it the following day
@@svenop nice! Expect 7 to 10 business days, if its coming from China
@@chriss1671 mine shipped from CA, took 4 days to get to NY via FedEx
Do you know if it will on the Ender 6?
Not 100% sure, but i think it will work, but you have to do extra steps of compiling your printer's file
@@chriss1671 thank you
My printer doesn’t accept killer even though it’s in the sd card
mine is not connecting to my ender 3 s1 pro
Update your Sonic Pad firmware🙂
Didn't n33d the bullshit music. background noise would have been better
How does it get from Cura to the sonic pad?
You can do that by using Moonraker plugin from Cura marketplace, either select a check box to print immediately after upload, or take full control of Sonic Pad from a web browser entering its IP address on local network, if you don't want to print right away.
@@Dimsumlezako what I'm trying to find out is once I'm done in Cura, will it export the gcode file to the sonicpad via a usb, thumbdrive, sd card, or wifi? And will the laptop or computer need to stay running during the print or will it be able to be shut down?
mine doesnt show 7 dots it just boots up