The extruder may be slipping due too heat creep, this happens when heat from the nozzle creeps past the cooling block and solidifying filament within the ptfe tube. I have this exact printer and modded the life outta it so the way I solved it is a more efficient 40mm fan. Another way to solve the filiment leak would to be to add Teflon tape to the threads. If you want more fixes, I recommend a few mods to extend the life of your printer, like BLTouch, OctoPi, dual fang blower fans, mirror bed, cable strain reliefs, stepper bracing mods, marlin firmware upgrade to marlin 2x, creality ender 5 extruder, cable pullup lines, max endstops, direct drive extruder, and structure braces. Keep in mind a few of these mods are incompatible with each other.
the extruder is slipping because they replaced it with a non-geared type and the E-steps are way off since they were calibrated for the Titan extruder. Also the filament drive gear has a different diameter. Proper thing would be to change the configuration.h file in Marlin to correct the stepper direction and esteps. Also a PID tune should be mandatory after a hotend replacement.
Thanks. I am making some of the same fixes to my tornado as well. However as far as the extruded goes, it is easier to just pull the wires out of the connector at the motor and switch them around.
Yeah mate. I know this is an old video but if that Tornado is anything like mine was then you have bigger problems. I would not let kids anywhere near it for the following reasons: 1) The mains power input is switched (and fused) on the neutral. This means that mains voltage (240v in the UK) is present on the exposed rear DIN connector of the control box and is present inside the control box even if the mains power switch of the control box is off. SWITCH IT OFF AT THE WALL!!! 2) The frame and control box have no safety Earth despite the machine frame and control box being metal. This is illegal in the UK for good reason. 3) The 240v mains cables to the heated bed have no strain relief and are secured with nothing but solder. They WILL fatigue anhd break off over time. See 1 & 2 above.. 4) The default firmware has Thermal Runaway protection disabled and it cannot be enabled unless you flash a new firmware. This is a fire risk. 5) The SSR for the heated bed is extremely cheap and there is no thermal fuse in the heated bed. If the SSR fails, there is no way the micro can shut off mains power to the heated bed silicone pad. Massive fire risk. 6) They use a fake FTDI chip on the mainboard so even if you wanted to try and mitigate 4 and 5 above by using Octoprint and Smartplug plugins then tyou can't without soldering. It CAN be made into a good, safe printer but it is simply NOT safe out of the box given the above.
I have the Gold Colored One, Cleaned it up From Dust Yesterday, Going to Put a Micro Swiss All Metal Hot End Kit, Head on it Today, bought it long ago and Just Now Going to Do the upgrade. I have to Replace the Extruder Next Pay Days Purchase. I stopped Playing With it because of its Messy Nature, Wasted Lots of PLA Trying to print a Mandalorian Helmet . Kinda Peed it Wont Print a Bong that will not Leak Water .. Have to Figure a Way to Water Proof The Bongs, I created. They are Usless Until then. I have upgrade for MB, The PSP, as Well. More Efficient Power May Make it Smoother, Maybe I Donte Know. Mean Well LRS-150-24 is a Far more efficient PSP...
Thanks for letting me film. The Best moment is 15:55 for sure.😊😊
The extruder may be slipping due too heat creep, this happens when heat from the nozzle creeps past the cooling block and solidifying filament within the ptfe tube. I have this exact printer and modded the life outta it so the way I solved it is a more efficient 40mm fan. Another way to solve the filiment leak would to be to add Teflon tape to the threads. If you want more fixes, I recommend a few mods to extend the life of your printer, like BLTouch, OctoPi, dual fang blower fans, mirror bed, cable strain reliefs, stepper bracing mods, marlin firmware upgrade to marlin 2x, creality ender 5 extruder, cable pullup lines, max endstops, direct drive extruder, and structure braces. Keep in mind a few of these mods are incompatible with each other.
the extruder is slipping because they replaced it with a non-geared type and the E-steps are way off since they were calibrated for the Titan extruder. Also the filament drive gear has a different diameter. Proper thing would be to change the configuration.h file in Marlin to correct the stepper direction and esteps. Also a PID tune should be mandatory after a hotend replacement.
Thanks. I am making some of the same fixes to my tornado as well. However as far as the extruded goes, it is easier to just pull the wires out of the connector at the motor and switch them around.
Hello, I need your help! I didn't quite understand which wires I should invert.
swap the red and blue
Yeah mate. I know this is an old video but if that Tornado is anything like mine was then you have bigger problems. I would not let kids anywhere near it for the following reasons:
1) The mains power input is switched (and fused) on the neutral. This means that mains voltage (240v in the UK) is present on the exposed rear DIN connector of the control box and is present inside the control box even if the mains power switch of the control box is off. SWITCH IT OFF AT THE WALL!!!
2) The frame and control box have no safety Earth despite the machine frame and control box being metal. This is illegal in the UK for good reason.
3) The 240v mains cables to the heated bed have no strain relief and are secured with nothing but solder. They WILL fatigue anhd break off over time. See 1 & 2 above..
4) The default firmware has Thermal Runaway protection disabled and it cannot be enabled unless you flash a new firmware. This is a fire risk.
5) The SSR for the heated bed is extremely cheap and there is no thermal fuse in the heated bed. If the SSR fails, there is no way the micro can shut off mains power to the heated bed silicone pad. Massive fire risk.
6) They use a fake FTDI chip on the mainboard so even if you wanted to try and mitigate 4 and 5 above by using Octoprint and Smartplug plugins then tyou can't without soldering.
It CAN be made into a good, safe printer but it is simply NOT safe out of the box given the above.
I have the Gold Colored One, Cleaned it up From Dust Yesterday, Going to Put a Micro Swiss All Metal Hot End Kit, Head on it Today, bought it long ago and Just Now Going to Do the upgrade. I have to Replace the Extruder Next Pay Days Purchase. I stopped Playing With it because of its Messy Nature, Wasted Lots of PLA Trying to print a Mandalorian Helmet . Kinda Peed it Wont Print a Bong that will not Leak Water .. Have to Figure a Way to Water Proof The Bongs, I created. They are Usless Until then. I have upgrade for MB, The PSP, as Well. More Efficient Power May Make it Smoother, Maybe I Donte Know. Mean Well LRS-150-24 is a Far more efficient PSP...
🤣 you can take the pins out