Have you noticed the drastic increase in torque values for the lineset couplings from 3rd generation to 4th generation? It's almost doubled. I feel like I'm gonna break to damn connectors or line (especially the 1/4" line) trying to torque to what they spec. No other brand of mini-split specs their flare nut torque anywhere near as high. Seems weird to me. Any thoughts?
A lot of people that install mini splits install them in a garage...if you're doing that, double the square footage when determining how large your unit should be. The reason for this, garages are not insulated, they have a lot of leaks, etc. Also, if you're working in there, and you have to open your garage and maybe move a hot car into the garage, the unit will really struggle. Having a much larger sized unit will help to overcome all of these and more challenges garages have. If you double your size for the unit you will thank me later, trust me.
I'm not a HVAC professional, and I can tell you what they're for. A mini split is a small form factor heat pump used in situations where additional cooling to specific locations are needed and/or adding air conditioning to an existing structure where it's impractical/impossible/cost prohibitive to run a traditional split heat pump with forced air. (This is also why they're often called ductless heat pumps.) They're more efficient than older style air conditioning units, plus they can also run in reverse to provide heating in winter. I can't say if they are more or less efficient over traditional heat pumps. Because of this, you see them a lot more in Europe and Asia, where they have a lot more structures that predate air conditioning and forced air systems. Since most US residential structures have forced air systems (either the older air condition and heat systems, like the dead gas pack on my roof, or the more traditional heat pump systems), mini splits are less common in the US. But, there is nothing in the code books that prohibit their use. But their use for retrofitting older structures makes them ideal for use in Europe and Asia. EDIT: Forgot another use case, but you can use a mini split to create a multizone install as well. If you have a relative that likes their area warmer/cooler than everyone else, you could add one of these to give that person a little control over their own area.
Man, you are a great teacher. I really appreciate the way you explained without over explaining. Your comments were to the point and you never wasted any time on anything. I intend to install my own mini split just as soon as I get the opportunity. This information gave me just what I needed. Thanks !
44:15 The problem with your single breaker solution is that the two 20A circuits are not bridged so if one breaker trips the other will not and will still be hot. If you had bought two of those breakers you could have wired and consolidated those two tandem breakers above and below the breaker your replaced and freed up two slots for the double 20A 240V bridged breaker for your AC.
@@braddillman6014 You are correct. It can create a dangerous electrical situation. Also he should have marked the white wires with black tape, so somebody knows that both lines are hot.
Easy fix. Take a short 14ga solid copper wire and bridge the two breakers. If The breaker switches have holes in them. Some of the newer ones don’t so you’ll have to go with a double pole breaker instead.
@@ericfraser7543Your probably right. It would be best to go with a double pole breaker to start. What I was suggesting was a temp fix. And after seeing the breaker he was using that hack wouldn’t work anyway.
Lots of good info here... I just did a Mr.Cool 18,000 BTU gen three which looks to be exactly the same except for the lines which must be evacuated along with the evaporator. I really enjoyed installing this, I put the condensing unit on a support platform that puts it at waist height, it took me about a day and a half because I'm disabled and in a wheelchair about half the time. I also bought this unit used and needed to re-wrap the lines which I coiled horizontally behind the condenser so the compressor oil would not pool in the tubes like it will when looped vertically. (This I think is important) ... The previous owner pulled all the refrigerant into the condenser so I did not need any additional expensive R-410A....I also ran all the electrical....
Great video ! Progress report on my Mr Cool I installed in July 2021. I amazed how well it works. I bought a 12K unit for a 16X16 sunroom, it cools great and heats the room up in winter down to low 20's temps. we've had. I wasn't able to get the smart hub to connect for some reason so I didn't use it.The remote seems to be accurate in heat mode than cool mode for some reason. We adjust it till it's comfortable. One issue I had is before you unroll coil to hook up to the inside air handler notice the two lines are a little more separated that end opposed the condensing unit. My coil was wound backwards from factory and I had to pull my line-set back out of wall when I realized it was wrong end. It's amazingly quiet ! I don't know what to expect on longevity of the unit or serviceability , but time will tell. I figured I could replace this unit 2 or 3 times and it would touch the cost of having an a/c company install one.
My exact thoughts... I can install 3 of these & still be monet ahead of hiring an HVAC company. I'd be happy to pay to have a top of the line unit installed, but they just make you pay through the nose
If you have stranded wire,strip it a bit longer than you need,then go back down the wire and strip another 1/8" piece of insulation and pull it to the end of the strands,it will keep the wires together!
Very interesting to see how these have advanced. Not that hard to DIY, or worst case handyman could do this. It’s criminal what I paid for professionally installed Fujitsu unit 7-8 years ago. And it still had evap coil leak 1 month before parts warranty ended.
Daikin is one of the leading brands in multi zone mini splits also. 12 year warranty on them as well. Well hopefully you were able to get it fixed for free!
Thanks for the video, just investigating this stuff. I feel like the kit could be improved if they just had 2 fittings on the back of the unit facing the hole so there would be no need for bending, just hook up the lines.
Great videos I myself wouldn't have cut that much insulation off the red, white & black power wires. I like to cut just enough insulation off where it's flush. Probably doesn't matter but each of us has our own little quirky habits. AGAIN GREAT VIDEO, THANKS.
You are a fantastic Teacher! If there is a Technical College near you maybe consider presenting them with an "Introduction to Residential Heating and Air Conditioning 101, for the student considering a career in HVAC". You could do a charity install as a class of a mini-split as part of the curriculum and at a minimum, the students would come away from your class with the ability to install a Mini-Split on their own (minus the 120/240VAC connection).
I’ve had a few people tell me that. I will be creating a beginners online course soon! Still working on the curriculum and filming as it’s a lot of work! Stay tuned
I really appreciate what you as a professional are doing for the DIY community. I purchased the book you recommended and have learned a bunch. I am retired and we are on a fixed income so want to install the EG4 Hypbrid A/C. One thing that has not been shown in all the Mini Split TH-cams installs is How to pull the refrigerant back into the compressor if you have a leak after doing everything as right as you can. I know it isn't difficult and it does not take much time because I watched a Technician do it at our home once on our original whole house A/C. Could you do an in-depth TH-cam on just that one process as it could save us DIY folks if we ever have a leak? Thank you for all you give away to us DIY folks!
If you need remote help with locating equipment or help with the actual installation, feel free to check out our membership over on Patreon.com/diyhvacguy where for $25/mo cancellable at any time, you can get one on one assistance with all things hvac and a quick response time. Cheers!
Part of what makes this DIY friendly is the system is already under vacuum and the line set is precharged. No special tools needed (well, other than that torque wrench and hole saw).
Correct. I totally could have done the install with the supplies crescent wrenches as well. Overall, very easy DIY system to install. It’s been amazing so far!!
Could you also show how to connect a 3 prong heavy duty wire to regular outlet by a window for instance to power the mini split 115V 12k btu not the 220 as long as it’s on a 20Amp circuit it should be fine from what Mr.cool says for its smaller models .instead of wiring all the way to fuse panel and having its own circuit ? I think this would be a excellent video to make Diy even easier and bring you much more subscribers. Beginners are scared to play with fuse panel .
@@diyhvacguy there is a guy on TH-cam that has a Mr cool TH-cam 115 v microwave plug 🔌 video that did it this way but did not show how to do it so was pointless. Here’s the link th-cam.com/video/ancLHACUqoI/w-d-xo.html
Can the line set be ran from the other side of the indoor unit? I’m replacing an LG unit that the line set is running out the left side when facing it, this video shows running it out the right side following the template , thanks
@@cesaraviat yes, it can. your connections will be on the inside instead of the outside though (at least on my unit). on mine I also had the option to move the drain line to the other side by swapping a rubber plug out and moving it to the spot where the drain line went by default
Appreciate you doing a video on this install. I’m looking to do an install for our 10’x12’ shed (I imagine that would take the smallest model), and if that practice install goes well, we have two upstairs bedrooms that are somewhat hard to cool in the summer here in Sacramento that could use a Mr. Cool each. This would also cut our dependence on the central air conditioner being up and running - “Gertrude” is 34 year old unit original to the house, but she keeps on going (not very efficiently however).
Have just read 👀the Mr. Cool verses the Cooper & Hunter. I am still doing my reserch on the info for both. You gave a great installing video💻always, Tommy🤠
Could you feed the outside portion through a PVC pipe/tubing that’s been painted to match your home’s exterior, so it blends in and is better protected?
Yep, and top of the line Lennox systems use the exact same remote..and the condenser cooling fan is exactly the same. I think these things are more or less all made by the same company but just a different name is slapped on them before they leave the factory. It's crazy. You'll pay 3x the cost to have a lot of HVAC guys install a Mini-split. It's a total racquet
I don't understand how air is not remaining in the lineset since no vac was pulled. When you connect the lineset there has to be a small amount of air that goes into the system, or at least it "looks" as if there would be... I can't tell for sure. You've had no issues with the unit?
They are precharged with refrigerant, so if anything happens a tiny bit of refrigerant gets released when the lineset is joined to the equipment. No problems thus far!!
The issues won't show for many years unless it's a newer propane based system in which case you risk fire. The old f gas one just has failure due to moisture later on. Also no pressure / vacuum test means you have no idea if it leaks or not. It's a good video but does miss a couple of what appear to be quite important things. Second one is the pipe spool needs to be horizontal not vertical due to oil in the system pooling in the lines. Ps I'm a DIYer too so this is just things I have found while researching if I have enough tools and info to do a DIY safely and to code.
There was a missed opportunity to place the excess coil in the interior void to satisfy the horizontal position recommendation. Plus there would be less heat loss and danger of impingement.
My 2nd generation line set is full of leaks. The inside unit doesnt have the same line set connectors as this one. It stems straight out of the unit directly connecting to the outside unit. In other words one set of connector which attaches to the outside unit. I'm going to purchase a 3rd gen to replace my 2nd gen indoor. Is this inside unit the 3rd generation or 4th?
I'm surprised they don't offer a 10 and 15 foot options for linesets for applications like yours that are going through the wall they are mounting the evaporator on.
Hi, I’ve learned a lot from your videos, I’m just not sure about Mini split’s do some need to be vacuumed before opening the lines, ? Are some Mini splits different from others. Thanks
Mrcool has a patent on the precharged linesets, so it’s definitely the most diy friendly. All the other ones, you will need a vacuum pump to vacuum the lines before letting the refrigerant in, but that’s really the only difference. I just posted a video on the copper and Hunter mini split and that is how every mini split will come, with the exception of the mrcool diy mini split. 👍🏼
Nice video, some very helpful info. Do you know if you could use a standard lineset with a Mr. Cool unit? I understand that you’d then have to pull a vacuum and charge the line, but I’m wondering if it would be compatible in terms of the connections. Thanks!
Very helpful video. One question I have is can I connect 3 mini-heads to a one-zone unit. I understand if this was possible all 3 heads would run at the same temperature. Thanks.
It’s not needed unless you did something wrong during the install or it isn’t cooling at some point after the install. Then I’d recommend having someone check it out.
Hi, so I have an old house like yours , Hoq many sq ft ? and how many heads just one or ? vid look good thanks.Oh got it , its a garage . Any tips for doing a 3 Zone ?
Hello and thank you for your great advices and instruction. On any other split with no pipes included, would you suggest to braze or solder(stay brite 8) the inside connections to avoid any possibility of leak?
I’m planning an install for the single zone 12K model. It will be most convenient to have the air handler on the other side of the room in a finished shed. I’m trying to figure out if there are any bad things that come with running the lines down, but mostly 17ft horizontally (and around one corner). I’ve only seen people bring it perfectly vertical down the siding to the condenser with plenty of slack left. I’m worried that gravity will matter, but I’d need it to run across and not just down. Thanks for any insight.
Looking for the ceiling mounted cassette system…can’t find it and Mr. Cool has been indifferent regarding pointing me in the right direction..even though they make one ! Went with Pioneer
Can the line set be ran from the other side of the indoor unit? I’m replacing an LG unit that the line set is running out the left side when facing it, this video shows running it out the right side following the template , thanks
I really want to install a mini split and after watching this I feel like I can do it. Is the Mr. Cool the best recommendation for a diy or are there any others that you might recommend?
29:00 instead of spooling the excess line why not simply cut the fitting ends off and then braze the fittings back on after shortening the length of the lines and have a much cleaner look? And there will not be any chance of oil settling in the lines at the bottom of the loop. Or would it introduce air in the lines? Are the lines vacuumed out at the factory?
Nooooooo! Don’t end a condensate drain right where it dribbles onto wood, or into a foundation! Moisture invites termites & rot. Very cool to see how easy it is to install a DIY system! Helps in our choosing which way we’re gonna need to go with doing such a system. I’d REALLY like to see how the in-ceiling cassettes go in….we have low ceilings, & small spaces, so, really not good to mount wall warts in low-ceiling houses.
Linus Tech Tips on youtube installed ceiling cassettes. Says difficult issue is achieving downward slope, water backs up and overfows, awkward to access to monitor, difficult to see in dark, tube comes loose. Potential ceiling damage. Talks about it at 21:29 in part 2 "This was MUCH harder than I expected... DIY Air Conditioning Pt 1"-installing outdoor unit th-cam.com/video/sG90GdrNEdM/w-d-xo.html "For the first time in my life... I'm COOL! - DIY Air Conditioning Pt 2" -installing ceiling cassettes, (I've pre forwarded it to the place) th-cam.com/video/U-pZ1taV76U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MHGnHm9Ed6JHSAAH&t=1289
The minimum wire gauge for 20 amp is #12 copper, not #10. Also that breaker is for one 2-pole circuit and two single pole circuits...there’s no handle tie for the outer two switches.
Bingo, Using over sized conductors is only dangerous to the wallet, but feeding a 240 single phase load with 2 non bridged breakers is a serious no no, I doubt it passes code anywhere. need to do some musical chairs and free up a spot for a 2 pole breaker... Possibly by replacing all your existing 2 pole breakers with ones like he has and removing a couple of the single pole duplex jobs. In case anyone is wondering why this matters, in a condition where one leg trips due to a ground short both legs will be secured, also it helps insure during maintenance a homeowner or technician will get all the power off. there is a real possibility that a tech in a hurry is going to see that breaker near where they expect to see a double poll breaker for the ac and shut off your range before they get to poking around, or assume its a single 110 breaker.
@@gregdawson1909 My breaker panel is a Siemens and I have one of those breakers (a 30/40) for the dryer/range. The outer switches have a u shaped metal piece clipped on them so they are tied together. He probably can get a similar piece for his square D box. He has more trouble than that, passing code. In multiple locations he is using a white wire as a hot wire without wrapping it with black tape to indicate it is hot.
Hey man, great video. I saw another vid of someone showing the coolant leaking from a bad soldering connection just after hooking it up. If you ran into this, how would you approach it? Is it possible to shut down that line, disconnect it and get Mr Cool to send a replacement line? Also, if your system needs servicing, what contractor would touch a DIY install like this? Thanks!
I recently saw that MrCool have a central split system ranging from 1-5 tons. DIY-friendly quick connects on the refrigerant lines, and the warranty's valid for DIY installation. I'd be interested in your thoughts on that one.
I did a Mr cool diy unit for my garage. Same as this one. It only lasted 1 year. Their customer service is non existent. What do I do with it? It needs a compressor, at minimum.
Hi, I have a question about the unit, my local home Depot said that my state in NM is never going to permit a mini split in my mobile home. But my neighbor who is a general contractor and he installed one in his house. Is this just from the state or all 50 states?
You need to get a breaker that is made for your panel so if it’s a square d it will be different then a General Electric panel. I found mine at Home Depot
Seriously great video. The only thing I saw that maybe might be added is the exterior hole do you foam it or use that electric putty to keep mice or wasps from entering ? The evaporator has a charge too ? A low pressure charge I’m assuming? Maybe I missed that at the beginning . You always have fantastic easy to learn videos. I used to be intimidated with the duct work but you make it simple with the transition pieces.
@@diyhvacguy thank you. Give you an idea I’m old….63 ..lol…took 2 years of night school back in 1996 - 1998 while working full time of course. I’m assuming before you were born . Maybe in the oven 😂. Yes you could still get r-22 with the universal certification easily and r-12 was possible to get but expensive but was mostly used the r-12 for cars 50 dollars a pop to top off then. I still have a full cylinder in my basement just lost interest in cars topping off thing. We paid 600 dollars for that cylinder then me and a friend who used to do it together. Now might be worth a lot or nothing ( I don’t know maybe I’ll have to pay to get rid of it 😂). The split system you show is nice I didn’t realize the evaporators were charged I always learn so much from you. I also learned about the 240v breaker you showed I never knew either that they had them for 240v . You are the best kind of teacher for the working man and diy person. I watch all your videos from start to finish. Oh I’m retired to 😂. Was a boiler operator for over 20 years. From 1979 to 2001 . From fire tube and water tube boiler plants only to co-gen and jet engine at the end of my career in that field. But retired from heavy construction laborers in 2020. So I appreciate your hard working hands but be careful with that sheet metal you always make me nervous when your pushing on it with bare hands. Remember if you get a severe cut it’s your hands that make your money and here to of course but every tin knocker has scars from slips. Have a great day and thanks again teacher young dude.
I have a home in San Diego area with a two 30 year old Air Forced Natural Gas Furnace/AC systems (1 upstairs/1 downstairs), which are typical of the area. The supporting condensers are 3 ton (30 amp) and 4 ton (40 amp) AC units. I am considering replacing both systems with Heat pumps and would really appreciate it if you could post a Gas Furnace/AC Air Forced system to Heat Pump conversion video. I have recently added Solar to our home and am interested in moving away from gas (and gas has gotten very expensive in CA). The Airbox's are each have 120v units and have seen a Mr Cool Heat Pump replacement requiring 240 volt but I do not wish to add 240 volt support to airboxes if possible due to added expense and not sure why it would need 240 volt in any case for air handler if old units seemed fine with 120 volt.
Great video! How much was your 18,000 BTU Heat Pump/AC Unit? curious about the cost to generate heat out of that in the winter is it a third of the cost of using an electric heater in your garage that would probably require 15 A of power which would be 1.5 kW per hour of usage which can get to be extremely expensive! Perhaps add $100-$150 to your electric bill from RMP
@@diyhvacguy You need to disclose the fact they sent you the unit for free. At 7:34, you said you don't know if you got special treatment because you received a tool bag, wrenches, and hole saw bit. Obviously you did. Same goes for the bent fins. You said it's not worth sending it back. Really? It's hard to believe or trust what you say because you're not being honest. Don't be a shill and BS your viewers. People deserve to know they are basically watching an ad before they go and spend their money, regardless of whether Mr. Cool has great customer service or not.
Have you had any issues with the way you ended up spooling your line ? Appearently Mr. Cool wants us to coil it horizontally instead of vertically like you did. Unfortunately I don’t see anywhere in the manual that specifies this but they do bring this up on their website.
Is this a good quality unit? I had a couple of HVAC guys come out to give me an estimate and I mentioned the Mr cool unit and said they are low quality units, any truth to this or are they just full of BS?
Is the line set precharged with r410a or is it in a vacuum? If you wanted to reduce the lineset length by cutting out five feet and then Staybright 8 solder in a pair of couplers, would you have to recover the system's r410a and weigh in new gas? Or do they give you the lineset refrigerant volume?
Ad hoc Resizing would negate the $1300 premium levied for their famous DIY-friendly "completely pre-charged" feature for which they are purchased. I know there is a Florida company which sells affordable recharge kits. Some recommend every 5 years. One person routinely recharges his new units, noting an improvement in performance over the stock recharge.
Not to be picky (okay maybe I am) The white power lines should have been marked with RED tape to designate its not a neutral line but a hot leg also...
Question.....im going to be installing 3 separate mini splits in my house . The 3 condensers will be sitting next to each other on the outside of my home. Do i need to have 3 separate circuits for electricity?? Meaning each mini split condenser will have a separate circuit, breaker and disconnect. I have a 200 amp breaker box with enough openings to do it however i was wondering if there was a different way of running power to them having only one breaker in the panel and then separate disconnects outside. Thanks 😊
Why didn't you use a TMC connector for your communication cable hook up to heat pump? They are actually weather rated. TMC050A or TMC075A depending on cable and knockout size. Squeeze connectors aren't weather rated.
Awedome video brotha, quick question for ya, i getting ready to buy one if these however i was told i needed a 30 amp breaker for 10 awg wire, you have a 20 amp going to the 10 awg is there a reason?
It’s dependent on the size but mine one requires a 20 amp. If you need help with sizing etc feel free to check out our Patreon membership at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy Cheers man
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Have you noticed the drastic increase in torque values for the lineset couplings from 3rd generation to 4th generation? It's almost doubled. I feel like I'm gonna break to damn connectors or line (especially the 1/4" line) trying to torque to what they spec. No other brand of mini-split specs their flare nut torque anywhere near as high. Seems weird to me. Any thoughts?
A lot of people that install mini splits install them in a garage...if you're doing that, double the square footage when determining how large your unit should be. The reason for this, garages are not insulated, they have a lot of leaks, etc. Also, if you're working in there, and you have to open your garage and maybe move a hot car into the garage, the unit will really struggle. Having a much larger sized unit will help to overcome all of these and more challenges garages have. If you double your size for the unit you will thank me later, trust me.
This video gives me confidence to install my own unit. This is better than any of the other videos I've run across on this topic.
Thank you! Glad you found it easy to follow
It's not that hard. Take your time, be very thorough & don't do a hack job, it'll turn out fine.
He missed out an VERY important step,,, he didn't bleed [vacuum] the system
I always wanted to know what a mini split was all about. I haven't met a single HVAC person who could explain it to me. Really nice job.
I'm not a HVAC professional, and I can tell you what they're for. A mini split is a small form factor heat pump used in situations where additional cooling to specific locations are needed and/or adding air conditioning to an existing structure where it's impractical/impossible/cost prohibitive to run a traditional split heat pump with forced air. (This is also why they're often called ductless heat pumps.) They're more efficient than older style air conditioning units, plus they can also run in reverse to provide heating in winter. I can't say if they are more or less efficient over traditional heat pumps.
Because of this, you see them a lot more in Europe and Asia, where they have a lot more structures that predate air conditioning and forced air systems. Since most US residential structures have forced air systems (either the older air condition and heat systems, like the dead gas pack on my roof, or the more traditional heat pump systems), mini splits are less common in the US. But, there is nothing in the code books that prohibit their use. But their use for retrofitting older structures makes them ideal for use in Europe and Asia.
EDIT: Forgot another use case, but you can use a mini split to create a multizone install as well. If you have a relative that likes their area warmer/cooler than everyone else, you could add one of these to give that person a little control over their own area.
Man, you are a great teacher. I really appreciate the way you explained without over explaining. Your comments were to the point and you never wasted any time on anything. I intend to install my own mini split just as soon as I get the opportunity. This information gave me just what I needed. Thanks !
If you need help with your install, feel free to check out our remote support page at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy Hope we can help!
Dave
44:15 The problem with your single breaker solution is that the two 20A circuits are not bridged so if one breaker trips the other will not and will still be hot. If you had bought two of those breakers you could have wired and consolidated those two tandem breakers above and below the breaker your replaced and freed up two slots for the double 20A 240V bridged breaker for your AC.
Yea if one of the 20amp breakers tripped and not the other it could single phase your unit. To my knowledge, I'm not a pro though.
@@braddillman6014 You are correct. It can create a dangerous electrical situation. Also he should have marked the white wires with black tape, so somebody knows that both lines are hot.
Easy fix. Take a short 14ga solid copper wire and bridge the two breakers. If The breaker switches have holes in them. Some of the newer ones don’t so you’ll have to go with a double pole breaker instead.
@@monroefive-o40 Its unlikely the MFR would warranty that solution they don't even want you using another MFRs breakers in their panel.
@@ericfraser7543Your probably right. It would be best to go with a double pole breaker to start. What I was suggesting was a temp fix. And after seeing the breaker he was using that hack wouldn’t work anyway.
Lots of good info here...
I just did a Mr.Cool 18,000 BTU gen three which looks to be exactly the same except for the lines which must be evacuated along with the evaporator. I really enjoyed installing this, I put the condensing unit on a support platform that puts it at waist height, it took me about a day and a half because I'm disabled and in a wheelchair about half the time.
I also bought this unit used and needed to re-wrap the lines which I coiled horizontally behind the condenser so the compressor oil would not pool in the tubes like it will when looped vertically. (This I think is important) ... The previous owner pulled all the refrigerant into the condenser so I did not need any additional expensive R-410A....I also ran all the electrical....
tip: remember to put black or red marker or tape on the white wire. this to ident the white as hot. do this for all the wires for this use.
Thanks for content. I am not sold on it being true DIY, and you best have a extra person to help as you did.
Great video ! Progress report on my Mr Cool I installed in July 2021. I amazed how well it works. I bought a 12K unit for a 16X16 sunroom, it cools great and heats the room up in winter down to low 20's temps. we've had. I wasn't able to get the smart hub to connect for some reason so I didn't use it.The remote seems to be accurate in heat mode than cool mode for some reason. We adjust it till it's comfortable.
One issue I had is before you unroll coil to hook up to the inside air handler notice the two lines are a little more separated that end opposed the condensing unit. My coil was wound backwards from factory and I had to pull my line-set back out of wall when I realized it was wrong end. It's amazingly quiet ! I don't know what to expect on longevity of the unit or serviceability , but time will tell. I figured I could replace this unit 2 or 3 times and it would touch the cost of having an a/c company install one.
Thanks for sharing! I’m loving mine so far!
My exact thoughts... I can install 3 of these & still be monet ahead of hiring an HVAC company. I'd be happy to pay to have a top of the line unit installed, but they just make you pay through the nose
WOW - this video demo is among the best I have ever encountered. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words
If you have stranded wire,strip it a bit longer than you need,then go back down the wire and strip another 1/8" piece of insulation and pull it to the end of the strands,it will keep the wires together!
Very interesting to see how these have advanced. Not that hard to DIY, or worst case handyman could do this. It’s criminal what I paid for professionally installed Fujitsu unit 7-8 years ago. And it still had evap coil leak 1 month before parts warranty ended.
Should have went Mitsubishi or Samsung. 10-12 year warranty…. Depending on your contractors status.
Daikin is one of the leading brands in multi zone mini splits also. 12 year warranty on them as well. Well hopefully you were able to get it fixed for free!
Thanks for the video, just investigating this stuff. I feel like the kit could be improved if they just had 2 fittings on the back of the unit facing the hole so there would be no need for bending, just hook up the lines.
Great videos I myself wouldn't have cut that much insulation off the red, white & black power wires. I like to cut just enough insulation off where it's flush. Probably doesn't matter but each of us has our own little quirky habits. AGAIN GREAT VIDEO, THANKS.
Great job 👍. Makes me so confident.
You can do it!
Thank you for the install info.
You are a fantastic Teacher! If there is a Technical College near you maybe consider presenting them with an "Introduction to Residential Heating and Air Conditioning 101, for the student considering a career in HVAC". You could do a charity install as a class of a mini-split as part of the curriculum and at a minimum, the students would come away from your class with the ability to install a Mini-Split on their own (minus the 120/240VAC connection).
I’ve had a few people tell me that. I will be creating a beginners online course soon! Still working on the curriculum and filming as it’s a lot of work! Stay tuned
Great job! I enjoyed your work immensely.
Thanks for the video! Good job! The only thing that would bother me is not being able to do a leak check on your inside connections. Take care!
Very cool! No pun intended! Well done! Cheers, George
It’s not cool until this spring 🤣 thanks!
That was a awesome install. Definitely gonna have to put one in my shop when I get it insulated
I really appreciate what you as a professional are doing for the DIY community.
I purchased the book you recommended and have learned a bunch.
I am retired and we are on a fixed income so want to install the EG4 Hypbrid A/C. One thing that has not been shown in all the Mini Split TH-cams installs is How to pull the refrigerant back into the compressor if you have a leak after doing everything as right as you can. I know it isn't difficult and it does not take much time because I watched a Technician do it at our home once on our original whole house A/C.
Could you do an in-depth TH-cam on just that one process as it could save us DIY folks if we ever have a leak? Thank you for all you give away to us DIY folks!
Always wanted to do this and thanks to this video.. I know I can ! I have some HVAC knowledge so ..I now I need to size one for my needs
If you need help with sizing and help with installation, feel free to check out our remote support membership at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy! Cheers
Uggh! Couldn't find your torque wrench using the search bar in your Favorite HVAC Tools
Thanks great information.
Nice job, this is the first mini split video I've watched. My son brought a house And needs AC. Going to do this
If you need remote help with locating equipment or help with the actual installation, feel free to check out our membership over on Patreon.com/diyhvacguy where for $25/mo cancellable at any time, you can get one on one assistance with all things hvac and a quick response time. Cheers!
No pulling a vacuum? That breaker should have a little clip that ties the two 20 amp throws together so if one leg trips both sides get tripped.
Part of what makes this DIY friendly is the system is already under vacuum and the line set is precharged. No special tools needed (well, other than that torque wrench and hole saw).
Correct. I totally could have done the install with the supplies crescent wrenches as well. Overall, very easy DIY system to install. It’s been amazing so far!!
Could you also show how to connect a 3 prong heavy duty wire to regular outlet by a window for instance to power the mini split 115V 12k btu not the 220 as long as it’s on a 20Amp circuit it should be fine from what Mr.cool says for its smaller models .instead of wiring all the way to fuse panel and having its own circuit ? I think this would be a excellent video to make Diy even easier and bring you much more subscribers. Beginners are scared to play with fuse panel .
That’s very true. I’ll do some research on making a video for that! Cheers
@@diyhvacguy there is a guy on TH-cam that has a Mr cool TH-cam 115 v microwave plug 🔌 video that did it this way but did not show how to do it so was pointless. Here’s the link th-cam.com/video/ancLHACUqoI/w-d-xo.html
I think you are supposed to coil the excess horizontally, bc the oil will gather in the low spots if done so vertically
WM, you are correct. And it specifically states so in the Mr.Cool install guide.
Hmmm I might flip it over. I’ll do some more research on that first. Thanks for the input
@@diyhvacguy you could work the excess into the large wall cavity and have it look super clean outside 👍
Can the line set be ran from the other side of the indoor unit? I’m replacing an LG unit that the line set is running out the left side when facing it, this video shows running it out the right side following the template , thanks
@@cesaraviat yes, it can. your connections will be on the inside instead of the outside though (at least on my unit). on mine I also had the option to move the drain line to the other side by swapping a rubber plug out and moving it to the spot where the drain line went by default
just what i was looking for.! you da man! thank you@!
Good Job thanks for video
The green screw on the chassis is the line in ground. The communication line should ground to the other ground you indicated.
Ultimately won't matter. It's the same metal ground plate.
Appreciate you doing a video on this install. I’m looking to do an install for our 10’x12’ shed (I imagine that would take the smallest model), and if that practice install goes well, we have two upstairs bedrooms that are somewhat hard to cool in the summer here in Sacramento that could use a Mr. Cool each. This would also cut our dependence on the central air conditioner being up and running - “Gertrude” is 34 year old unit original to the house, but she keeps on going (not very efficiently however).
Have just read 👀the Mr. Cool verses the Cooper & Hunter. I am still doing my reserch on the info for both. You gave a great installing video💻always, Tommy🤠
Cool is true plug n' play but $1300 overpriced. C & H requires $300 vacuum and guage but is regular price.
CH last longer because of pressure test and vacuum the unit. Air and moisture will kill the unit slowly. 😮
I think you are supposed to put a piece of colored electric tape on a white wire if it is used as a hot.
Excellent video, Broski.
Could you feed the outside portion through a PVC pipe/tubing that’s been painted to match your home’s exterior, so it blends in and is better protected?
The remote looks exactly like the Senville air con remote (Aura) - nice install btw!
Yep, and top of the line Lennox systems use the exact same remote..and the condenser cooling fan is exactly the same. I think these things are more or less all made by the same company but just a different name is slapped on them before they leave the factory. It's crazy. You'll pay 3x the cost to have a lot of HVAC guys install a
Mini-split. It's a total racquet
Great work thanks again i enjoy very much
The white LINE power wire SHOULD be wrapped in red or black tape as white is a neutral color code.
I don't understand how air is not remaining in the lineset since no vac was pulled. When you connect the lineset there has to be a small amount of air that goes into the system, or at least it "looks" as if there would be... I can't tell for sure. You've had no issues with the unit?
They are precharged with refrigerant, so if anything happens a tiny bit of refrigerant gets released when the lineset is joined to the equipment. No problems thus far!!
The issues won't show for many years unless it's a newer propane based system in which case you risk fire.
The old f gas one just has failure due to moisture later on.
Also no pressure / vacuum test means you have no idea if it leaks or not.
It's a good video but does miss a couple of what appear to be quite important things.
Second one is the pipe spool needs to be horizontal not vertical due to oil in the system pooling in the lines.
Ps I'm a DIYer too so this is just things I have found while researching if I have enough tools and info to do a DIY safely and to code.
can you do another video where you show all the steps you take for the electrical? Like which pipes and boxes your bought, etc.
There was a missed opportunity to place the excess coil in the interior void to satisfy the horizontal position recommendation. Plus there would be less heat loss and danger of impingement.
That’s a tray ceiling! I have the exact ceiling in my living room without the light cans. But my house built in 1909 13” deep brick walls
I think you have to pull a vacuum after attaching the line set, and then release refrigerant.
Not on the DIY line sets. System is pre-vacuumed.
My 2nd generation line set is full of leaks. The inside unit doesnt have the same line set connectors as this one. It stems straight out of the unit directly connecting to the outside unit. In other words one set of connector which attaches to the outside unit. I'm going to purchase a 3rd gen to replace my 2nd gen indoor. Is this inside unit the 3rd generation or 4th?
Always great thanks you again 😊
I'm surprised they don't offer a 10 and 15 foot options for linesets for applications like yours that are going through the wall they are mounting the evaporator on.
Yea I was surprised too.
Pioneer offers 10ft sections, but apparently it needs a minimum amount of lines fot the refrigerant according to my installation guide
Great video
Thanks for the information
Thanks for this video. Good stuff
Mr cool is identical to the Pioneer I installed today
Hi, I’ve learned a lot from your videos, I’m just not sure about Mini split’s do some need to be vacuumed before opening the lines, ? Are some Mini splits different from others. Thanks
Mrcool has a patent on the precharged linesets, so it’s definitely the most diy friendly. All the other ones, you will need a vacuum pump to vacuum the lines before letting the refrigerant in, but that’s really the only difference. I just posted a video on the copper and Hunter mini split and that is how every mini split will come, with the exception of the mrcool diy mini split. 👍🏼
Im thinking about getting a few mini splits for around the house.
Nice video, some very helpful info. Do you know if you could use a standard lineset with a Mr. Cool unit? I understand that you’d then have to pull a vacuum and charge the line, but I’m wondering if it would be compatible in terms of the connections. Thanks!
What size is your garage? Trying to decide between the 12k or 18k for a two car garage.
Very helpful video. One question I have is can I connect 3 mini-heads to a one-zone unit. I understand if this was possible all 3 heads would run at the same temperature. Thanks.
Do you recommend having someone come in and top off the system after installation?
It’s not needed unless you did something wrong during the install or it isn’t cooling at some point after the install. Then I’d recommend having someone check it out.
Hi, so I have an old house like yours , Hoq many sq ft ? and how many heads just one or ?
vid look good thanks.Oh got it , its a garage . Any tips for doing a 3 Zone ?
I could not find "Stud Buddy" in your list of HVAC Tools so purchased direct (stocking stuffers!).
Sorry about that. My store has a mix of shippable videos and item lists and as of right now there is no way to separate them
Hello and thank you for your great advices and instruction. On any other split with no pipes included, would you suggest to braze or solder(stay brite 8) the inside connections to avoid any possibility of leak?
I’m planning an install for the single zone 12K model. It will be most convenient to have the air handler on the other side of the room in a finished shed. I’m trying to figure out if there are any bad things that come with running the lines down, but mostly 17ft horizontally (and around one corner). I’ve only seen people bring it perfectly vertical down the siding to the condenser with plenty of slack left. I’m worried that gravity will matter, but I’d need it to run across and not just down. Thanks for any insight.
Can you please link to that adjustable torque wrench?
Very nice video... :) Thank you!!
Glad you liked it!
Looking for the ceiling mounted cassette system…can’t find it and Mr. Cool has been indifferent regarding pointing me in the right direction..even though they make one ! Went with Pioneer
More like a DO IT YALL'S selves. lol
🤣
Can the line set be ran from the other side of the indoor unit? I’m replacing an LG unit that the line set is running out the left side when facing it, this video shows running it out the right side following the template , thanks
I really want to install a mini split and after watching this I feel like I can do it. Is the Mr. Cool the best recommendation for a diy or are there any others that you might recommend?
29:00 instead of spooling the excess line why not simply cut the fitting ends off and then braze the fittings back on after shortening the length of the lines and have a much cleaner look? And there will not be any chance of oil settling in the lines at the bottom of the loop. Or would it introduce air in the lines? Are the lines vacuumed out at the factory?
Do you need to pull a vacuum on the lines? or is OK to just open up the lines to the refrigerant like you did. Thanks
Nooooooo! Don’t end a condensate drain right where it dribbles onto wood, or into a foundation! Moisture invites termites & rot.
Very cool to see how easy it is to install a DIY system! Helps in our choosing which way we’re gonna need to go with doing such a system.
I’d REALLY like to see how the in-ceiling cassettes go in….we have low ceilings, & small spaces, so, really not good to mount wall warts in low-ceiling houses.
Linus Tech Tips on youtube installed ceiling cassettes. Says difficult issue is achieving downward slope, water backs up and overfows, awkward to access to monitor, difficult to see in dark, tube comes loose. Potential ceiling damage. Talks about it at 21:29 in part 2
"This was MUCH harder than I expected... DIY Air Conditioning Pt 1"-installing outdoor unit
th-cam.com/video/sG90GdrNEdM/w-d-xo.html
"For the first time in my life... I'm COOL! - DIY Air Conditioning Pt 2" -installing ceiling cassettes, (I've pre forwarded it to the place)
th-cam.com/video/U-pZ1taV76U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MHGnHm9Ed6JHSAAH&t=1289
The minimum wire gauge for 20 amp is #12 copper, not #10. Also that breaker is for one 2-pole circuit and two single pole circuits...there’s no handle tie for the outer two switches.
Bingo, Using over sized conductors is only dangerous to the wallet, but feeding a 240 single phase load with 2 non bridged breakers is a serious no no, I doubt it passes code anywhere. need to do some musical chairs and free up a spot for a 2 pole breaker... Possibly by replacing all your existing 2 pole breakers with ones like he has and removing a couple of the single pole duplex jobs. In case anyone is wondering why this matters, in a condition where one leg trips due to a ground short both legs will be secured, also it helps insure during maintenance a homeowner or technician will get all the power off. there is a real possibility that a tech in a hurry is going to see that breaker near where they expect to see a double poll breaker for the ac and shut off your range before they get to poking around, or assume its a single 110 breaker.
@@gregdawson1909 My breaker panel is a Siemens and I have one of those breakers (a 30/40) for the dryer/range. The outer switches have a u shaped metal piece clipped on them so they are tied together. He probably can get a similar piece for his square D box.
He has more trouble than that, passing code. In multiple locations he is using a white wire as a hot wire without wrapping it with black tape to indicate it is hot.
Hey man, great video. I saw another vid of someone showing the coolant leaking from a bad soldering connection just after hooking it up. If you ran into this, how would you approach it? Is it possible to shut down that line, disconnect it and get Mr Cool to send a replacement line? Also, if your system needs servicing, what contractor would touch a DIY install like this? Thanks!
I recently saw that MrCool have a central split system ranging from 1-5 tons. DIY-friendly quick connects on the refrigerant lines, and the warranty's valid for DIY installation. I'd be interested in your thoughts on that one.
I have 16ft ceilings in my garage, how long are the lines that you ended up coiling up behind the condenser?
I did a Mr cool diy unit for my garage. Same as this one. It only lasted 1 year. Their customer service is non existent. What do I do with it? It needs a compressor, at minimum.
Great video . How much was the unit? link did not provide a price If it did forgive me but I didn't see a price .thanks.
I believe the 18k kit is $1700
Do the Mr. Cool Instructions say that 20amp (220VAC) is the correct size breaker to use?
Yes
At 19:25, why no Nylog sealant?
Hi, I have a question about the unit, my local home Depot said that my state in NM is never going to permit a mini split in my mobile home. But my neighbor who is a general contractor and he installed one in his house. Is this just from the state or all 50 states?
How/why are mini-splits pulling 22.5 SEER when larger splits are getting 18 SEER at best?
Can you tell me the measurement between the front and back mounting holes on the condenser feet? Thanks!
What is this breaker's name, and where can I find it? It would great if you could give me the link.
You need to get a breaker that is made for your panel so if it’s a square d it will be different then a General Electric panel. I found mine at Home Depot
Seriously great video. The only thing I saw that maybe might be added is the exterior hole do you foam it or use that electric putty to keep mice or wasps from entering ? The evaporator has a charge too ? A low pressure charge I’m assuming? Maybe I missed that at the beginning . You always have fantastic easy to learn videos. I used to be intimidated with the duct work but you make it simple with the transition pieces.
Yes Evap coil, lineset, and condenser all have a charge 👍🏼
@@diyhvacguy thank you. Give you an idea I’m old….63 ..lol…took 2 years of night school back in 1996 - 1998 while working full time of course. I’m assuming before you were born . Maybe in the oven 😂. Yes you could still get r-22 with the universal certification easily and r-12 was possible to get but expensive but was mostly used the r-12 for cars 50 dollars a pop to top off then. I still have a full cylinder in my basement just lost interest in cars topping off thing. We paid 600 dollars for that cylinder then me and a friend who used to do it together. Now might be worth a lot or nothing ( I don’t know maybe I’ll have to pay to get rid of it 😂). The split system you show is nice I didn’t realize the evaporators were charged I always learn so much from you. I also learned about the 240v breaker you showed I never knew either that they had them for 240v . You are the best kind of teacher for the working man and diy person. I watch all your videos from start to finish. Oh I’m retired to 😂. Was a boiler operator for over 20 years. From 1979 to 2001 . From fire tube and water tube boiler plants only to co-gen and jet engine at the end of my career in that field. But retired from heavy construction laborers in 2020. So I appreciate your hard working hands but be careful with that sheet metal you always make me nervous when your pushing on it with bare hands. Remember if you get a severe cut it’s your hands that make your money and here to of course but every tin knocker has scars from slips. Have a great day and thanks again teacher young dude.
I have a home in San Diego area with a two 30 year old Air Forced Natural Gas Furnace/AC systems (1 upstairs/1 downstairs), which are typical of the area. The supporting condensers are 3 ton (30 amp) and 4 ton (40 amp) AC units. I am considering replacing both systems with Heat pumps and would really appreciate it if you could post a Gas Furnace/AC Air Forced system to Heat Pump conversion video. I have recently added Solar to our home and am interested in moving away from gas (and gas has gotten very expensive in CA). The Airbox's are each have 120v units and have seen a Mr Cool Heat Pump replacement requiring 240 volt but I do not wish to add 240 volt support to airboxes if possible due to added expense and not sure why it would need 240 volt in any case for air handler if old units seemed fine with 120 volt.
Great video! How much was your 18,000 BTU Heat Pump/AC Unit?
curious about the cost to generate heat out of that in the winter is it a third of the cost of using an electric heater in your garage that would probably require 15 A of power which would be 1.5 kW per hour of usage which can get to be extremely expensive! Perhaps add $100-$150 to your electric bill from RMP
Curious what your thoughts are on their universal series, considering for use with my existing furnace to replace existing ac
do you need the Elictric certificate to do some electrical show up in the video ? thanks
What a great video, thank you. May I know if you ordered directly from MrCool or through another retailer? Thanks
Mr. Cook sent me this unit in exchange for creating the video. They have great customer service from what I’ve read though
@@diyhvacguy You need to disclose the fact they sent you the unit for free. At 7:34, you said you don't know if you got special treatment because you received a tool bag, wrenches, and hole saw bit. Obviously you did. Same goes for the bent fins. You said it's not worth sending it back. Really? It's hard to believe or trust what you say because you're not being honest. Don't be a shill and BS your viewers. People deserve to know they are basically watching an ad before they go and spend their money, regardless of whether Mr. Cool has great customer service or not.
Have you had any issues with the way you ended up spooling your line ?
Appearently Mr. Cool wants us to coil it horizontally instead of vertically like you did. Unfortunately I don’t see anywhere in the manual that specifies this but they do bring this up on their website.
Nope still working like a champ!! 🤘🏼
Is this a good quality unit? I had a couple of HVAC guys come out to give me an estimate and I mentioned the Mr cool unit and said they are low quality units, any truth to this or are they just full of BS?
Is the line set precharged with r410a or is it in a vacuum? If you wanted to reduce the lineset length by cutting out five feet and then Staybright 8 solder in a pair of couplers, would you have to recover the system's r410a and weigh in new gas? Or do they give you the lineset refrigerant volume?
Ad hoc Resizing would negate the $1300 premium levied for their famous DIY-friendly "completely pre-charged" feature for which they are purchased. I know there is a Florida company which sells affordable recharge kits. Some recommend every 5 years. One person routinely recharges his new units, noting an improvement in performance over the stock recharge.
Good stuff. Where did you get the torque wrench?>
Trutechtools.com 👍🏼
Not to be picky (okay maybe I am) The white power lines should have been marked with RED tape to designate its not a neutral line but a hot leg also...
Yes I’ve learned this since doing this install. Thanks for the feedback!
Question.....im going to be installing 3 separate mini splits in my house . The 3 condensers will be sitting next to each other on the outside of my home. Do i need to have 3 separate circuits for electricity?? Meaning each mini split condenser will have a separate circuit, breaker and disconnect. I have a 200 amp breaker box with enough openings to do it however i was wondering if there was a different way of running power to them having only one breaker in the panel and then separate disconnects outside. Thanks 😊
Yes each one needs to be separate with its own disconnect 👍🏼
@@diyhvacguy thanks 😊
Great video. I am considering the 36,000 BTU Gen 4 DIY unit. Will a 30 amp breaker with 10/2 wire work for the 36,000 BTU Gen 4 unit?
Yesir
do you not need to vacuum the lines
I think the Pioneer systems are a bit nicer of you want to go cheap!
Why didn't you use a TMC connector for your communication cable hook up to heat pump? They are actually weather rated. TMC050A or TMC075A depending on cable and knockout size. Squeeze connectors aren't weather rated.
I just used what was supplied.
Dang, that's what Mr. Cool supplied? Wow
Awedome video brotha, quick question for ya, i getting ready to buy one if these however i was told i needed a 30 amp breaker for 10 awg wire, you have a 20 amp going to the 10 awg is there a reason?
It’s dependent on the size but mine one requires a 20 amp. If you need help with sizing etc feel free to check out our Patreon membership at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy Cheers man
www.pickhvac.com/mini-split/diy-installation/power-requirements/
You can find those wire and breaker size requirements here