The solenoid may come out that easy with a brand new unit like the one your using to demonstrate. But in the real world, where the trailer is actually used, you are not going to get it out using your fingers. In fact you probably wont get it out by just removing the back cover. You'll likely have to pull the whole unit off to remove it.
Today I drove the trailer to retrieve the boat. I backed right in. No issues. Boat not centered on the trailer after I pulled the boat out, I had to back in again. All 4 tires locked up. Centered the boat, pulled it back out no issues. I backed up again to get my truck out of 4 low. All 4 tires locked up again. I towed the trailer back to the yard and tried to back in to a spot. All 4 tires locked up again. Any ideas? I did noticed the electrical receiver connection had 4 male metal connectors. My truck only has 3. Is the 4th connecter for the solenoid?
You absolutely can manually deactivate the brakes. The pin that locks the coupler latch handle will do this for you... remove the pin from under the latch handle and reinsert the pin in the hole directly next to it (approx 2 inches toward the rear of the trailer). Doing this prevents the compression of the brake master cylinder. This second hole toward the rear is actually called the "reverse lockout position hole". It is briefly mentioned in both the manual and installation instructions, but not clearly explained. See it mentioned twice in the Manual under "Hitching the Trailer" #9 and in the second to last warning on page 6. Also see it mentioned three times in the Install Instructions in "Caution" above item #4 on the top right of the second page; again on page 2 in item #9; and a third time in the "Caution" just above the previously mentioned #9. Again, it is briefly mentioned - but not clearly labeled or explained. Side notes, 1) a lost or faulty ground connection can cause the breaks to lock up while reversing when not using the pin in the "reverse lockout position hole". 2) I believe this was your issue... your truck does not have a 5 connection flat. That extra connection you are missing accommodates the solenoid deactivation when backing up. It was not an issue when you backed up an empty trailer due to the load being too light to activate the brake master cylinder. Hope this helps.
@@afeli3910 I discovered this however, it's not a good idea as the hitch is no longer locked and can pop off the ball. It happened to me twice. I used another "pin" type device to prevent the piston to push back. The manufacture wrote back telling me the 5th pin on the harness will activate or deactivate the brake system and is the preferred method.
I have installed a hydraulic brake 660. when braking a trailer a beating occurs. Could this be a defect in some part inside the mechanism? How can I diagnose?
The solenoid has a blue wire that needs to be wired so it gets power when your back up lights come. This can be done by splicing it into your flat 4 pin connectors but I forget what wire the blue wire goes to. Google how wire the reverse solenoid on a surge break actuator. When he has the solenoid out he shows you the plunger working. That plunger is what blocks the fluid when you put your tow vehicle in reverse. It you have your trailer hooked up and the truck engine off you will hear it “ clicking “ when you put your truck in and out of reverses
@@F8lastcallcharger345 Can you confirm that this unit replace my existing (manual lockout) and the solenoid will override my reverse auto-brake? Does the reverse lockout solenoid (DEX-81103) come with the Model 66 (DEX-82401)? Trying to figure is they show a spare to buy or its an added part.
How do you lockout the brakes from engaging (if you need to go in reverse and your wiring isn't working properly from your vehicle...or you have simple move and aren't able to hook up trailer wiring to your tractor or whatever vehicle)??? Doesn't this model have a bolt or "key" to stop the actuator from being engaged?
I wish they sold an adaptor so that I could connect my pressure bleeder to this unit! It looks like I will have to make one myself....
I had to disassemble my Tie Down Model 66 to install a new emergency breakaway cable. How tight should the coupler's roller bolts be tightened?
The solenoid may come out that easy with a brand new unit like the one your using to demonstrate. But in the real world, where the trailer is actually used, you are not going to get it out using your fingers. In fact you probably wont get it out by just removing the back cover. You'll likely have to pull the whole unit off to remove it.
Today I drove the trailer to retrieve the boat. I backed right in. No issues. Boat not centered on the trailer after I pulled the boat out, I had to back in again. All 4 tires locked up. Centered the boat, pulled it back out no issues. I backed up again to get my truck out of 4 low. All 4 tires locked up again. I towed the trailer back to the yard and tried to back in to a spot. All 4 tires locked up again. Any ideas? I did noticed the electrical receiver connection had 4 male metal connectors. My truck only has 3. Is the 4th connecter for the solenoid?
You absolutely can manually deactivate the brakes. The pin that locks the coupler latch handle will do this for you... remove the pin from under the latch handle and reinsert the pin in the hole directly next to it (approx 2 inches toward the rear of the trailer). Doing this prevents the compression of the brake master cylinder. This second hole toward the rear is actually called the "reverse lockout position hole". It is briefly mentioned in both the manual and installation instructions, but not clearly explained. See it mentioned twice in the Manual under "Hitching the Trailer" #9 and in the second to last warning on page 6. Also see it mentioned three times in the Install Instructions in "Caution" above item #4 on the top right of the second page; again on page 2 in item #9; and a third time in the "Caution" just above the previously mentioned #9.
Again, it is briefly mentioned - but not clearly labeled or explained. Side notes, 1) a lost or faulty ground connection can cause the breaks to lock up while reversing when not using the pin in the "reverse lockout position hole". 2) I believe this was your issue... your truck does not have a 5 connection flat. That extra connection you are missing accommodates the solenoid deactivation when backing up. It was not an issue when you backed up an empty trailer due to the load being too light to activate the brake master cylinder. Hope this helps.
@@afeli3910 I discovered this however, it's not a good idea as the hitch is no longer locked and can pop off the ball. It happened to me twice. I used another "pin" type device to prevent the piston to push back. The manufacture wrote back telling me the 5th pin on the harness will activate or deactivate the brake system and is the preferred method.
@@edthayres9175 should be the center pin on the 7 pin connector
@@afeli3910 You deserve a medal for the thoroughness of this reply
I have installed a hydraulic brake 660. when braking a trailer a beating occurs. Could this be a defect in some part inside the mechanism? How can I diagnose?
I have this model on my trailer, is there a way to bypass the surge brakes system while reversing?
I have the same question for my trailer, can it be done?
The solenoid has a blue wire that needs to be wired so it gets power when your back up lights come. This can be done by splicing it into your flat 4 pin connectors but I forget what wire the blue wire goes to. Google how wire the reverse solenoid on a surge break actuator. When he has the solenoid out he shows you the plunger working. That plunger is what blocks the fluid when you put your tow vehicle in reverse. It you have your trailer hooked up and the truck engine off you will hear it “ clicking “ when you put your truck in and out of reverses
@@F8lastcallcharger345 Can you confirm that this unit replace my existing (manual lockout) and the solenoid will override my reverse auto-brake?
Does the reverse lockout solenoid (DEX-81103) come with the Model 66 (DEX-82401)? Trying to figure is they show a spare to buy or its an added part.
Stephen Klunis my unit came with the solenoid lock out and I pin for the manual lock out
Do you need to bleed if you take the solenoid out to inspect?
How do you lockout the brakes from engaging (if you need to go in reverse and your wiring isn't working properly from your vehicle...or you have simple move and aren't able to hook up trailer wiring to your tractor or whatever vehicle)??? Doesn't this model have a bolt or "key" to stop the actuator from being engaged?
Theres a hole on tongue u can stick a bolt or pin
use the latch pin as a blocker in the hole 3" back from the latch hole.
Why post a video and Not reply to questions..worthless
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