Great tutorial. I have the Poulan worm puller myself. I have a 1/2” or 5/8” nylon sleeve about 1-1/2” long that I use on the oil pump side seal, works perfect. It keeps the seal from rolling. It’s basically a larger version of the sleeve you use on your kill switches.
Thank you very much. That's one thing I pride myself in is a neat and tidy work space. I hate looking for something when you need it, I just like to know where it is.
I made a simple gear puller with a 1/2" iron pipe coupling, a nipple and a 1/2 X 3/8 reducing coupling. A 5/8" fine threaded hex bolt will thread nicely into the 3/8 end of the reducer. Voila! No welding needed.
Are you saying that combination will thread over the worm gear and pull it out?!!! I searched for days and husqvarna does not make their proprietary puller anymore. Not one place who advertised it for sale had any in stock or any information about getting them again. I used the largest coarse threaded nut I had to pull the last one and worked the previous one off little by little with a single screwdriver. Used the same socket method to reinstall and screwdriver to separate and make the coils evenly spaced.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Yes,a 1/2" iron pipe thread is the same as the worm gear. If you have one of those 2 arm gear pullers you can thread the pipe coupling onto the worm gear and then put the puller arms under the coupling. The coupling provides a lot more surface area on which to pull. My invention was free since I had all the parts laying around my shop. I don't know how much the pieces would cost to buy these days.
@@tomr2007 Thanks, Tom! I’ve got an assortment of pullers. I want to make something similar to the factory tool that is used not only for removal but also for installation so I don’t have to mess around with spacing out the coils evenly at the correct distance. I work on Poulan and Craftsman rebrandeds all the time.
Good info to know. I have a few OEMS here in the shop, They are definitely getting a tad harder to find. Nice knowing there is an alternative seal available if needed.
Where do you find the seals and bearings for those? I have a 2800 I'm assuming is same as that one needs seals and bearings. Always enjoy your videos especially the Poulan ones 👍
So OEM seals were available, just hard to find. But the seals I use now are the same size and are Marine outboard engine seals. I have a list of Part #s for the correct seal. And the bearings are just standard 6202 C3 bearings I believe.
TW, you used a vacuum to clean out that area? What kind of vacuum, what type of tip or nozzle and are you using disposable paper bags in it? Doesn’t the oil end up clogging things up inside the hose or whatever? I really like that idea versus shop air, which then creates the same mess outside the saw which has to be cleaned up. I’ve got a few different vacuums so I have my choice to use aa dedicated one for that purpose. Thanks!
I have a 6 gallon stainless wet vacuum. It's like 6HP and sucks like crazy lol. I normally just leave the foam filter in, and if it ever stops up I just take a water hose and blow thru it and wash the filter. In 5 years it's stopped up 1 time and I suck everything with it from dirt to metal shavings off the lathe. 👍🏻
Yea I just tap it in due to the shavings, 1 shaving in the bearing can cause major issues, especially with the C3 rated beatings, they have a higher tolerance.
Great tutorial. I have the Poulan worm puller myself. I have a 1/2” or 5/8” nylon sleeve about 1-1/2” long that I use on the oil pump side seal, works perfect. It keeps the seal from rolling. It’s basically a larger version of the sleeve you use on your kill switches.
Sounds like that would work awesome!!!! Thanks again for the care package, the seals seem to be working great so far. 👍🏻
Nice one! Really clean, neat and organized workspace. 👍🔧
Subbed.
Thank you very much. That's one thing I pride myself in is a neat and tidy work space. I hate looking for something when you need it, I just like to know where it is.
Thanks Dubb…
Those worm gear puller/drivers have become unobtainium. Been looking for a little puller with thin jaws to do it your way…
I found mine at Advance Auto Parts. Pretty cheap, but they work great for these tasks.
I made a simple gear puller with a 1/2" iron pipe coupling, a nipple and a 1/2 X 3/8 reducing coupling. A 5/8" fine threaded hex bolt will thread nicely into the 3/8 end of the reducer. Voila! No welding needed.
Are you saying that combination will thread over the worm gear and pull it out?!!!
I searched for days and husqvarna does not make their proprietary puller anymore. Not one place who advertised it for sale had any in stock or any information about getting them again. I used the largest coarse threaded nut I had to pull the last one and worked the previous one off little by little with a single screwdriver. Used the same socket method to reinstall and screwdriver to separate and make the coils evenly spaced.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Yes,a 1/2" iron pipe thread is the same as the worm gear. If you have one of those 2 arm gear pullers you can thread the pipe coupling onto the worm gear and then put the puller arms under the coupling. The coupling provides a lot more surface area on which to pull. My invention was free since I had all the parts laying around my shop. I don't know how much the pieces would cost to buy these days.
@@tomr2007 Thanks, Tom! I’ve got an assortment of pullers. I want to make something similar to the factory tool that is used not only for removal but also for installation so I don’t have to mess around with spacing out the coils evenly at the correct distance. I work on Poulan and Craftsman rebrandeds all the time.
OEM seals are still available from Husqvarna. I’ve ordered four so far. Just FYI if you weren’t aware.
Good info to know. I have a few OEMS here in the shop, They are definitely getting a tad harder to find. Nice knowing there is an alternative seal available if needed.
Awesome video thanks for how to!
Your welcome. I appreciate you watching. 👍🏻
I'm going to need this video soon. Thanks man. Subbed
Awesome!!!! Hope it helps. Feel free to ask any questions if they pop up, I'll do my best to answer them.
@@dubbssawshop I will. I do quite a bit of small engine repair. But I hate chainsaws the most lol
@chaotic twig they can definitely be aggravating sometimes for sure. Plus they are mostly very very dirty.
Where do you find the seals and bearings for those? I have a 2800 I'm assuming is same as that one needs seals and bearings. Always enjoy your videos especially the Poulan ones 👍
So OEM seals were available, just hard to find. But the seals I use now are the same size and are Marine outboard engine seals. I have a list of Part #s for the correct seal. And the bearings are just standard 6202 C3 bearings I believe.
@@dubbssawshopis that the same ones you used in the super 380?
TW, you used a vacuum to clean out that area? What kind of vacuum, what type of tip or nozzle and are you using disposable paper bags in it? Doesn’t the oil end up clogging things up inside the hose or whatever? I really like that idea versus shop air, which then creates the same mess outside the saw which has to be cleaned up. I’ve got a few different vacuums so I have my choice to use aa dedicated one for that purpose. Thanks!
I have a 6 gallon stainless wet vacuum. It's like 6HP and sucks like crazy lol. I normally just leave the foam filter in, and if it ever stops up I just take a water hose and blow thru it and wash the filter. In 5 years it's stopped up 1 time and I suck everything with it from dirt to metal shavings off the lathe. 👍🏻
Dubbs, can you drill the hole instead of tapping a hole or are drill shavings the reason for tapping?
Yea I just tap it in due to the shavings, 1 shaving in the bearing can cause major issues, especially with the C3 rated beatings, they have a higher tolerance.
👍🆙D
Do you have the info to order crank seals for my 2700, 2800 and 3100? Also maybe for my 3450?
I sure do buddy!!! OEM are hard to find but the boat outboard seals work great. Order- Sierra 18-2065 (x2) and you'll be set.
GLM-86520
Mallory 9-76214
Evinrude-332261
All are the same seals, just different manufacturers part #s