Last Unclimbed Ridge · Chris Bonington on Everest
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge" is the story of the 1982 British attempt on the then-unclimbed Northeast Ridge of Mount Everest. Co-authored by Sir Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke, it illustrates both the thrills and deadly perils of extreme high altitude alpine-style climbing.
The Unclimbed Ridge is a genuine classic of Everest, a film that book editor Clint Willis calls "the real climber's Into Thin Air." Bonington tell the story of Bonington's most tragic expedition-a bold attempt on the fearsome Northeast Ridge of Everest. This is the expedition that killed two of Bonington's closest friends-two young men who were part of mountaineering's greatest generation; Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman set out one morning and never made it back. "This was an epic, groundbreaking ascent by one of the most talented teams ever to hit the Himalaya."-Stephen Venables
Last several minutes the tape had degraded completely, sorry.
Start your high-altitude adventures by climbing Kilimanjaro with us! www.ClimbKili.com
#Everest #Bonington
![[Live] : ONE 168 วันนี้!! "โจนาธาน vs ซุปเปอร์เล็ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jIN65KgJsI/mqdefault.jpg)
This is one of the best documentaries on Mt. Everest. Thank you Mr. Snow
Love these old Everest documentaries. Back when Everest still had a sense of adventure about it. Instead of the absurd circus it is today.
These classic mountaineering documentaries are priceless. Thank you for sharing them! 🌄
You're right, they don't make them like they used to.
Yeah I wonder how he gets the rights to upload all these since there's literally no mention of anyone named David snow in any of them. Maybe it's just being cheeky lol
Maybe just taking them off dailymotion and passing them off as his own material
Chris Bonington, Joe Tasker and other great mountaineers of the time wrote fascinating books to help fund their climbs. If you read them in the order they were written, it's the most captivating, true life soap opera ever. Bonington especially brings the hazards of the climbs to life. Other people, like Jon Krakauer, have written interesting books about climbing, but no one comes close to the books written by the men who were first experiencing these challenges. If you don't have time to read all of them in order, jump to Eiger Direct, my all time favorite.
Man! No sherpas , no ropes and ladders to guide and help them! That's real and raw climbing!
And no way of assessing how long they could survive in the death zone without supplementary oxygen?
You still put down ropes, dude. Unless you're suicidal.
That's why so many men died under his lead
@@dianamincher6479🙄🙄🙄
You should read up on Messner’s solo ascent of the North Ridge Everest in 1978, no oxygen, and an unclimbed route!
A very good description of worry and grief on the mountain - the veneer of normalcy seated thinly over a monstrous terror. When I was young I first came across the peculiar writings of HP Lovecraft, the first I read being “At the Mountains of Madness.” That, coupled with my Dad’s penchant for camping on fire roads deep in the Wallowas (back in the 50s) left me with a deep fascination for climbing as a metaphor for surmounting unconscious fears. There was a stark flash of that at the end when they confront the mountain massif knowing fully that their friends had been lost to it.
lovecraft was a satanist. no thx
Normalcy???
What the hell is that???
You meant NORMALITY...
Don’t know how Snow finds these but I always look forward to them
Yup, it's a great channel.
Do some research an u can find them ..pretty simple
@@killlr0y who cares what you think
@@thecarpetman7687 I do!
Joe was a lovely man,, fond memories off him I was only young but he had patience to explain things,, he also had a little equipment shop once in hope,, now gone sadly missed
When I just googled the name Chris Bonington I was expecting to learn that he was frozen on a mountain somewhere. I'm happy to say that today in October 2021 he is still alive at age 87.😁
Yes he’s still doing lecture tours. I went to one of his talks in my local town about 4 years ago. He’s still a good story teller
I am of course happy that bonington is stil alive...but do you know how many people died on bonington - led expeditions..??
@@markmark8545 Better than these anything-to-get-to-top punks today who put on the fake voice when they break tragic news to the parents of a lost fellow climber.
@@bobbowie5334 sure...but i'm with messner on this one..while messner acknowledges bonington as a great and influential climber, his hero was shackleton...a man who failed ( mostly), but as far as i know, he never lost a single man.
I am not blaming bonington at all for the (many) men who died on his expeditions...not really...but as leader he must bear some responsibility. And after all, messner's own brother died on the way down nanga parbat while separated from his brother. Risky business these himalaya.
@@markmark8545 How many Indian climbers have died on cut-rate Everest expeditions? If you're dying to climb Everest I'd take my chances with Bonington.
Thanks for posting this. When I trekked to Kanchenjunga Base Camp (north side) a few year ago, I was reminded every day of Peter Boardman's description of that trip as "the most beautiful walk in the world." It also made me think of where and how he died, which I found quite saddening.
no one cares
@@firefoxtogo2209 Wrong, I do , you bellend
I've never understood the thinking behind caring enough to comment that you "don't care" 😅 ... defeats your point. It's basically another way of telling the internet you're bored and miserable. Lahoooserz
That must be an epic trek
@@firefoxtogo2209you obviously care enough to write nobody cares several times a day 😂
That is one brutal Route for sure. Chris Bonington is a great Mountain Storyteller and is still alive and well.
Chris I think was very sensible about his own shortcomings but was he equally sensible about the shortcomings of his climbing team and why didn't he alert them timeously?
@@dianamincher6479 Diana, I have climbed Alpine peaks with teams of 2, 3 or 4 people, and a few times have told them that I felt I had gone far enough and would meet them back down the mountain. It is very hard to convince others to turn around once they are within striking distance of reaching a summit.
@@alveyjohn Thank you for your comment but I am referring to the 14/05 and early 15/05/1982 when Pete and Joe were apparently conning tthemselves into believing that they could reach the summit via the pinnacles without bottled oxygen! It is a physical impossibility whether classical or alpine, with respect!
This is the absolutely the best best film of climbing on Everest and a tribute also to the yaks animals and their keepers who enabled it.
Great documentary, this one. I think there's a little bit missing from the end - it's very hard to find it these days. RIP Boardman and Tasker, true legends..
Yes, the ending is missing?
@@unclexeres I believe there's another few minutes that's missing from the end, yes.
Having read Chris Bonnington’s book many many years ago, this was one video I had to watch. So sad that Pete and Joe passed on as they did. RIP.
I think Doug Scott tried the NE ridge some years later without success - but he knew when to quit. Wish Joe and Pete could have done that - quit at the right time. I believe, This ridge still remains unclimbed in alpine style.
Part of the ridge I think was climbed by Russell Brice and Mr. Taylor Alpine style?
@Diana Mincher - Thanks for the update.
There was one expedition, where they discovered the body of one of the missing climbers, sitting with his back against a rock ( I don’t recall who.) Was it this expedition?
In all the circumstances it appears that after the third snowhole Pete and Joe made a decision to take the pinnacles regardless!
@@ashishbasu844 it read it was the 1995 japanese expedition who first discovered boardman's body sitting on a rock between second and third pinnacle.
I really appreciate videos like this that showcase amazing people doing amazingly difficult things. When I was younger I used to love going climbing and hiking, but now my body just isn't cut out for that due to a connective tissue disease. Thank you for making it so I can live my dreams vicariously through others, and have these sort of 'experiences' even if I'm not able to go out and do these things myself.
Could I ask what connected tissue disease you have? My partner is struggling with diagnosis and I am curious about how people can get answers. Thank you for your time.
@@roystansell7640 I have Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome, it's a chronic disease where the collagen in your body is deformed, making your muscles, skin, joints, and almost everything too elastic. There is a diagnosis sheet you can use for the hypermobile type, which is the most common type found in people. This disease is also associated with mobility issues, subluxing/dislocation of joints, and POTS.
The best thing is to do some research, compile a list of your partner's symptoms, and things that trigger the symptoms if any. Then be honest with your doctor, if the doctor doesn't listen, then go to another. You will most likely need to see a specialist depending on what the issue is determined or suspected to be.
@@dragonsbarinttv Thank you. She is currently going through the process of diagnosis. She is confident she has EDS (another zebra) and was able to draw attention to it thanks to her dual degrees in biochemistry and biology and was able to run her own bio informatics to discover a likely mutation in her collagen. She has been suffering from all of the" classic" symptoms for years and it was like a light bulb moment. Now she is working with her doctors to get the diagnosis confirmed. It was a strange moment to see her discover that she has EDS and to know that she "wasn't making it up." We watched issues with my tissues it was like a whole new world. Once again thank you for your time! I wish the best for you.
@@dragonsbarinttv I have hEDS too :) I loved hiking and being active before things went sour, but some of my favourite videos are about Everest. It helps me get through my bad days. Wasn't expecting to see a dazzle here! 🙏💕✌
I am reading now Chris Bonington' book "The Everest Years" and it has been so far a great experience. This one expedition is written in full details, and it must've been a grueling task for all those men. Pitty this movie doesn't go all the way to the end, so if anyone knows of another full version I'd be very grateful. But thanks for uploading just as we have it. Cheers!
"The Ascent of Everest" by John Hunt (leader of the 1953 expedition) is another 'must read'.
@@philipr1567 thanks for advising.
th-cam.com/video/2RKUmgfHlos/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-Ch7adEqIBmwR725
I also read the bonnington book talking about this attempt and the loss of tasker and boardman and now to see the video is quite amazing
When I get a notification of David Snow I break my neck to sit down and watch it because I know its gonna be good..thanks for upload 👍
No need to rush ... relax ... sit a spell
Love both men, but I've always been fascinated with Peter. I always felt so sad when they never were seen after their summit attempt. Thanks for the upload
Fantastic documentary RIP Joe & Pete
💯
This channel is legendary.
Yes!!! Thank you for so many excellent uploads!!!
Interesting video. I enjoyed their reminisce chat. Hard to watch going up 24, 26 and on to 27 thousand feet without oxygen. Also poor Yaks the load they carried so sad. I was amazed at the caves of ice they dug sort of like Igloos. I like to google the mountaineers mentioned on a story; see their faces and know about them, I googled Peter Boardman and saw a photo I wish I hadn't. I really admire all these men/women they give it their all to conquer a dream.
Rest in Peace here these brave men: Peter Boardman and Joe Tesker ✝
That photo comes up anytime you look up a dead climber's name, I've seen foreign pages claiming it's an Indian border guard, German mother, Czechoslovak... Guess morbid clickbait is universal.
Please share what photo you googled!
@@mqL49J True. That photo is mostly claimed to be that of the German lady - Hannelore Schmatz. And unfortunately her husband also died while saving her.
@dianamincher6479 4 real! Where are all the bodies located at?
I hope i can help clean the big, big messes we've made up there. I would be so incredibly honored to be able to help the mountain back to its pristine state, with respect and honor from and for all. The bodies are one thing, but the empty O2 bottles, tent poles and stakes, random pieces of scrap and metal, the literal fecal matter, all of it. Im ashamed at how we've allowed the mountain to become so filthy. I truly do hope i can one day help clean it, even if i never get the opportunity to climb it. It would be a true honor.
Such an incredible story. Sir Chris is an extremely cool man and is sharp as a tack, even at his age. This was such a tragedy.
Pete was found in 1992 between the second and third pinnacle , just sitting on a rock .
One wonders what those last moments were like . You just fall asleep and never wake up .
Exhaustion is not a trifling matter .
Very sad, but in a way - as far as deaths go - they left this world the best way they could. Doing what they love, simply falling sleep on their mountain and never awaking
I would like to believe one sees the "light" and that is the moment the soul departs, no pain pure joy.
@@twilightpurpleglow tis a mystery
A Mallory and Irvine moment.
A lot of similarities between the two expedition and the aftermath.
@@lifesahobby lot's of imagery in your reply, alas I see an image of two men who went as far as Life would take them and no further.
They regrettably gambled on one too many all or nothing adventures and meanwhile fate is always waiting in the wings for those who gamble and lose.....
I like to throw these videos on in the background while i relax and take a little nap but 6:59 said *NOPE NOT TODAY BUDDY* 😂 made me almost jump out of my seat
Many Thanks again for your time and dedication around these videos.....👍👍👍👍
Thanks David for all your hard work with these videos, really appreciated
Bro he don't make them ..he just uploads them
Back in the glory days… Before people paid $65,000 to be dragged up Everest by a group of guides and Sherpas.
They are in China, not Nepal! And these are professionals! They are not like the people who don’t know what they are doing, so they must pay!
Thank you Mr Snow. Incredible and beautiful ridge/approach. Wonderful filming and showing the steep slopes. I think there must have originally been more at then end of the documentary...
Fantastic documentary,legends everywhere
Glad you enjoyed it
What a cliffhanger
A long time ago at exactly the right time and more or less by chance I came across a book called Savage Arena. Genuinely, it changed my life.
You are in the death zone way to long going that way. It is hard enough going the regular North col route and the second step is a exhausting climb let alone climbing the pinnacles. Get up and and down as fast as you can. Seems to me it was a little foolhardy attempt if Chris admits that Pete and Joe weren't that experienced for that route. Great video, thank you
At what point in the video did he say that? I don't recall him saying that. I agree with you that the route is way too extended.
@@scottsmith4145 Listen to the video again. He claimed they were good climbers but not for that route. It was towards the end of the video
@@czarcastic1458 hes talkng about the potential rescue team i believe.
@@scottsmith4145 it's at 45:45
Those Yak herders are the real deal. Respect.
Those tough tibetan and the herds of yaks is a beauty to watch beside mother goddess.
Pete and Joe are both legends.
If only we knew for sure what happened and why they failed to communicate with Chris, as arranged.
@@dianamincher6479 i know, a later expedition found what turned out to be Peter, but overall I wish that we knew.
But they needn't have been lost!
@@dianamincher6479 no doubt it was a major tragedy. In addition to being a great climber, Pete wrote some if the best mountaineering literature that has been written.
@@bryanmiller6110 totally agree.Shining Mountain is a masterpiece
That Bonington guy is a really cool cat.
Too true but even he buckled at the sight of the pinnacles!
Great videos all !!! thank you.
I need the story of him and his partner being left behind while climbing the ogre, broken legs and ribs, 6 days to make it back to Basecamp and when they arrived apparently they'd already packed up and left them assuming they were dead.
Is there a part two?! This definitely cuts off before the end
i've never been recommended something uploaded 6 minutes ago
This channel is a blessing!
This reminds me of a Monty Python skit, staring Graham Chapman, mountain climber and member of the Dangerous Sports Club.
09:43. Always wondered if the SW face was climbable. Would love to see footage of that expedition
Look for "Everest The Hard Way".
@@melanielankin1738 Just ordered it!
RIP Brave, fullish men, l do understand. 😙
They were hungry I bet not full
good doc.
Thanks Mr. Snow ❄️ 🙏🖖🏼🤟
May and a bit of September are the only good times to climb. I hope they go for the summit in May.
At KTM level, the yaks seemed ready to take off on a teasing run. Their relation with the Sherpa boys was like pals, time to time.
They scared me, but seemed to grin, i thought.
Mr Snow where do you find this gems?
amazing footage. transfixed.
Amazing!! I have red almost everything involving Chris Bonnington and his boys, the british climbing legends who set the standards back then. And now its possible to watch videos from those expeditions here on youtube, one after another. This tragedy with Boardman & Tasker was a true loss who turned them into legends for all time. Thank you for sharing this video
Why does Chris Bonington seem to get so much more kudos and attention than everybody else? In a summit attempt, you should think that the mountaineers actually summiting the peak / trying to summit the peak should get most of the honour, right? But whenever Bonnington is involved - no matter his role - the headline goes: "An expedition led by Chris Bonington" - when reality is he is sitting safely and warm back in his tent at basecamp drinking a hot cup of tea, chit chatting with the rest of the crew over the satelite phone, while the others do the heavy lifting in the deathzone xD
Examples:
1970 Annapurna Expedition. Don Whilans and Dougal Haston reached the summit from the south face, Chris Bonington led the expedition. Sure - he may have been the leader of the expedition, but the amount of spotlight he received compared to the guys actually sumitting Annapurna that day is wild.
1975 Everest Expedition. Successfully climbed by Dougal Haston and Doug Scott and two days later Peter Boardman and Pertemba, starting from western cwm going to the Southwest face. This was all Bonington in the articles despite not being anywhere near the actual peak.. Well played... xD
1982 Everest unclimbed ridge over the three pinnacles: Well, it is this video.. Chris Bonington figured out quite early that he didn't have the capacity to carry on for the summit bid (wise decision and he was 48 years of age back then after all) switching to a support role, meanwhile Boardman and Tasker being the stronger climbers carried on and later unfortunately died somewhere above the 2nd (not 100 % sure) pinnacle.
If I were an elite mountaineer back in the days I would think carefully of risking my life joining a team of Chris Bonington knowing he would get all the attention no matter what xD
All I can say about your good points is that I do not believe that Amerigo Vespucci was the sailing master in his ship either.
The class system was still alive and well you know, Sandhurst and all, tut tut old boy,
I did think the same to be honest
@@johnhulsker1453So cynical. Inverse snobbery.
They joined because he was a competent and inspiring leader and climber and expeditions have casualties as they are not a walk in the park. If you compare his stats to other expedition leaders there is no difference. So judgemental.
the yak herders! 👍
Interesting side note, Jim Bridwell skied to the north side of the mountain and met Bonnington and company, waiting but knowing it was over,
Read "The Boys of Everest" - fantastic.
bonington always reminds me of rum doodle :-)
I watched the 1975 video and then went out and bought the book for good measure, and somehow never heard about this later expedition until this most fortuitous upload. But the very first question that came to my mind was never answered. Previously bonington organized very large groups, this one went to the other extreme. What was behind the change in philoshopy?
The team chose an oxygenless Alpine approach with bare minimum support but not that bare initially?
This expedition was to be a full embrace in the new, fresh and bold Alpine Style without bottled oxygen and no Sherpa assistance-but the team was initially comprised of four climbing members but two members fell away. After that I have always wished Bonington could have adapted the configuration to include at least about 6 bottles of medicinal bottled oxygen for emergencies which they had in stock at ABC.
@@dianamincher6479 it's doubtful that would have saved Tasker and Boardman. The stored oxygen wouldn't have been that high
These guys are Original OG's digging a cave in the snow drifts. Now that's how it's done.
Walking around with a flip flop on one foot and razer sharp ice spikes on the other at the base of everest just seems pretty darn reckless!!!! One slip and any hope of a summit is gone! Maybe worse!
The risks are understood and factored into the equation!
Just want to know how the camera function there. Brilliant
Its strange to see that Yak is so docile. Its counterpart in US(Bison) cannot be tamed like that ever. Right.
I forget which one but one of the bodies was eventually found at the base of a pinnacle some years later.It was just sitting in the snow leaning against the rock.
Peter boardman
Pete's body.was in 1992
It was Pete Boardman, according to what was stated in a different video.
I wonder if they made it to the summit?...
No, they disappeared in the storm at 8300 mt
Thank you for the great video. Can anyone tell me how I can find the film, Bonington's Secret Mountain? I watched it once online but cannot find it anywhere. I even contacted Bonington's office with no results. I would love ot see it again.
From the good ole days of professional climbers, climbing the world's tallest mountains without a clinical commercial tourist expedition.
But how brave you guys are
I still can not understand how the heck Hillary withstood the rigours of the climb without all the equipment they use now!!
He wore Wool!!!
Now it’s Tourism on Everest.
I wish we'd quit saying "conquered the peaks" or "conquered the mountain" or whatever. It isnt being conquered. If you stand upon any part of Everest and then She lets you return home with your life, you have visited Her, thats all. There is no conquering. If there is, then the mountain is the one doing the conquering as it ends lives with zero enhancements or technology. The mountain simply just IS. It just is. It can not be conquered.
Nuts, crazy in the coconut. Why?
The title implores you to find a new and innovative way to get killed!
Testing the high altitude boot and crampon, other foot in sandle...... I'd have trodden on sandle foot
Well done
Wheres the bodies located?
Appreciate the video & extraordinary climbers, support staff & yaks. There are always back stories that will not be told/ exposed. Must swallow the Chinese propaganda. Who destroyed the monastery that was found in ruins? From the Chinese invasion of Tibet & slaughter of the religious communities?
Chris does tell a good story but I'd rather just see him climbing and learning his technique.
I like his voice...
Me too wheres the bodies?
So was it a storm ? Exhaustion?
Where is the rest??!
Fried chicken, 1/2 burger and chocolate pie In my warm nest. Amen
Bonnington is a multi Millionaire
Not that many believe the Chinese made it. Their rock samples are not reflective of the top.
It's certainly a problem. They continue to muck up legitimate Mallory/Irvine searches.
Did they ever find their bodies?
They found pete in 1992
One of the most deeplysad events. I feel chris should have said no being the leader. I really feel that. Its not entirely his fault but then again almost is actually the way teams function. He should have said his feeling is the rule and unless you want to die then dont do this one now this way. After that hes done his job. He didnt say these things….
I have to say that after watching this video for what now might be the 5th time, that some sort of mea culpa was perhaps due, and that Bonington struggled somehow throughout that part of the documentary when he portrays their final departure to the attempt not to say out loud that he thought he should’ve had called the whole thing off emphatically.
Out of all the losses his expeditions have suffered, I find those of Pete and Joe’s the ones that could have really been avoided, although by a narrow margin, one so slim I cannot and am not being judgmental at all.
@@brunodelayti6343 yes
I wonder why these people were not wearing any bright colors??
i think Tasker must have found a crevasse and vanished between the first and second pinnacle
If you go to Disney’s Expedition Everest ride, in the queue, you can see photographic evidence of what happened to the rest. This also give off proof of Yeti existence.
Haha. I love it ! The yeti!!!
Such a pity that they didn't strap on a bottle of oxygen or two just in case! They rather modelled on Reinhold Messner's 1980 Oxygenless ascent without realizing the full extent of the long and tedious climb in the death zone of the ridge. Bottled oxygen was available for use at ABC.
In the beginning when they talk briefly, that second dude talking in the tan t shirt is cute af 🥰🥰
Why did they keep going up some then back down then back up?
Acclimatization!
“Climb high, sleep low” for acclimatization.
The audio is really bad for me
Reinhold Messner believes that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine in 1924 lacked the ability to climb the 30m 2nd Step on the N.E. ridge. He believes that they were roped together and fell to their deaths either while still ascending or descending. In 1992 Pete Boardman's body was found sitting upright between the 2nd and 3rd "pinnacles," and I assume these are the 2nd and 3rd Steps.
You assume wrongly.
No, the Pinnacles are not the steps.
Isn't it strange? I still miss Pete Boardman, though I never met him!
Chris Bonington is the British version of Chuck Norris!
Why is there a face in that guys hair at @37:43?...not only in this video but faces and people can be seen in the weirdest places if you stop the frame and zoom in on other videos. Sometimes the hair appears to be moving and alive. Not just the reflection either...
I find it amusing an most shocking, how Chris bales out when it comes to the glory of the climb , but yet hear he is t.v. an books at what cost the lives of many he made millions of people death
In Britain you celebrate the failures more than anything lol.
Climbing hasn't changed a bit since then!
Insufficient oxygen supply will always be a universal problem!
Joe sounds as if he is struggling a bit in the audio?
What do ya mean UNCLIMBED??? People are literally building cities and towns all around Everest!
This was filmed a while ago. Chris Bonnington is now 87. And "literally building cities" they LITERALLY aren't
@@Hatunrumioc Har, just kiddin'...
I'm gonna be first man to climb Everest in the nude 💪
Really dated but interesting, imagine the locals being unaccustomed to 'Westerners in their brightly coloured clothing' these days? They probably outnumber the villagers in peak season now.
This was old school mountaineering, not the tourist package sold today.
Agreed- a controlled classical Alpine style approach!
Too true but what it was was a virgin attempt with an adumbrated Alpine team who felt an overwhelming desire to push through despite feeling hypoxic and whoozy to the point of no return!
facing the danger right infront your of your eyes. Is it maybe playing with your Life and only thinking about yourself???
Blinkers??
Mallory and Irvine were the first on the north side ...... not the Chinese 😁