How To Identify Fake or Counterfeit Components
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2024
- In this video, I show my process for checking and identifying a counterfeit IC. How I screen and check components purchased from grey market sources. This won't catch the good fakes but it's a good place to start. This covers some of the investigations of rebadged chips you might find on eBay or Chinese fleamarket IC websites.
I am sure for most this is just a review but always good to check what you are getting!
Always good to inspect and verify.
Very true. I should have check these the day I got the package.
Another way to tell: while ultrasonically cleaning certain factory-original chips can remove the inks used to mark them, ultrasonic cleaning can also remove the blacktopping. I have some memory chips I bought from a certain Chinese supplier of new old stock chips, and the blacktopping on them became apparent after I sent the boards through an ultrasonic cleaner. (The chips appear to be memory chips, and are probably the correct size, but they're not the exact brand/grade claimed.)
Also, I will note that just because you buy chips from a Chinese broker doesn't mean they're counterfeit/fake. I have bought new old stock chips from brokers and they proved to be exactly as described. For example, I was able to build an 8-bit video card for retro computers by buying the video chip from UTSource, and the chip was indeed a NOS Trident video chip. (The memory chips I referenced above were for this project. The Trident chip survived both the acetone test and the same ultrasonic cleaning, if anyone is wondering.)
Yes I've had very good luck with UTsource and HK inventories. I hope I didn't come across saying that brokers are just out selling fakes. That's not true and they serve an important role being able to access the markets over there.
Isn't there a big risk of damaging the chip if you US clean it?
@@CaravaggioRoma when US clean a board after rework, it’s almost always because the electrolytic capacitors has leaked. This does pose some risk, but the riskier option would be to leave electrolyte behind. And usually the components damaged in the US cleaner were already weakened by the electrolyte.
The remaining times I US clean a board is when I have to use lots of flux and IPA isn’t getting the board clean enough.
I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca Winnebago and the instrument cluster went haywire when I got my alternator replaced. It’s on a Chevy p30 chasis. Do you take orders for repair?
I don't go back past 1999 on cluster unfortunately. Hard to find parts and such for them. One thing to note though. they are normally have no digital logic on those really old ones. It might just a bad ground or wire if changing the alternator made a difference.
Hi,
This is Thrifty Tool Shed. I tried to reply back to an email from you and Gmail says it is undeliverable to your address? Nice channel, I subbed...
Oh I'll have too look into what's going on with that email address. It is a new account I may need validate the account or something. I'll shoot you an email with my personal email address in the meantime