Lost Rivers of London Walk from Kensal Green to Chelsea - The Counters Creek (4K)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
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This classic lost river walk along the Counters Creek takes us from Kensal Green Cemetery one of the Magnificent Seven London cemeteries, across Wormword Scrubs to the Westway and Notting Hill. We pass through Holland Park and the Olympia Exhibition Centre (stopping for a pint in the Hand and Flower) and then Earls Court and the Prince Pub SW6 and remember the colourful campaign to save Empress Place and the Prince of Wales pub in 2016. The Counters Creek leads us through another of the Magnificent Seven, Brompton Cemetery and then past Stamford Bridge, home of Chelsea Football Club. The final stretch of the lost river walk crosses Fulham Road, Kings Road and at we see the river above ground as it become Chelsea Creek and makes its confluence with the Thames.
Music
Big Sky - Gavin Luke
Dismantle - Peter Sandberg
Fields of Blue - John Utah
Fractions of Light - Rebecca Mardal
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Over the Meadow, Over the Stream - Alan Rogers
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I didn't even realise how long its been since Grenfell, RIP to all the poor souls lost and much love to their families
Great film, very informative. May the campaigners trying to save old London have the success they deserve.
'Whispers Underground", the third of Ben Aaronovitch's Peter Grant series is the book you're thinking of, John. One of my favourites!!
It mentions the 'Quiet People' who live underground in that area, and of the Potteries and Piggeries and the great lake of pig poo that used to exist around there.
I think it's great that such affluence is, essentially, built on effluence!
Hi John, we seem to be shadowing each other. I was in Kensal Green Cemetery last week on the Bank Holiday in search of J.G. Ballard's grave. I have walked this cemetery often and traced most of the famous graves but was unaware of the well and the Counter's Creek. Also traversed the catholic one next door in search of Louis Wain and Sax Rohmer, Mary Seacole etc. I spent some time in Paddington Old Cemetery on that weekend too and found the grave of author, Michael Bond (Paddington Bear). Also, love Brompton Cemetery and note a connection with Pariah Genius (Henrietta Moraes is buried there). This is a wonderful walk to experience with you John. Thank you.
Michael Bond's headstone is a particularly fine example of a tasteful, understated memorial. When I visited, a Paddington Bear figurine and some miniature jars of marmalade had been on it in tribute.
get yourself another couple or three Beers John, very enjoyable, theres something about a cemetery, so tranquil....I could walk around any in London and sit wherever and relax with a cool beer....Maybe that is Heaven for me..
That beautiful tower at Earl’s Court is Empress State Building, currently home of ‘spy cops’. Sadly you missed seeing Counters Creek above ground at West Brompton overground northbound platform - a glimpse of the bucolic river lost to the railway. Glad you mentioned Stamford Bridge - several founders of CFC buried in Brompton. 😊 There’s also a nice, leafier walk to Sands End through the new development on Fulham Road just to east of the railway bridge
I looked up Empress State Building and apparently it is to be an anti terrorist police HQ.
Respected Sir, today's walk is very meaningful 🙏❤we saw cemetery in london of Britishers here in 🇮🇳 india also there are cemeteries but it's hard to say that we don't care our old history ,river's level are also going high every year,they are giving us life still after so many pollution ❤but I must say that who gave us life we should save them ❤the 📖 reading 📚 of books give us so many knowledge,Sir when you are in childhood place you shopped for 🎄 Christmas and here in India we also wait for X-mas and shopping very much.I saw your previous video of Iain Sinclair and Alan Moore,what's the fantastic talk which you recorded in your shooting Camera 📷 London is a magical place but I'm very sad that old buildings are demolished...what we say respected Sir you are researching very much. Your book will not only book but also will create a Mega-History ❤ And yes of course over the stream,over the meadow by Alan Roger sir is a nice song I never saw London but here in India 🇮🇳 what I read in stories of childhood books their illustration reminds and corelate with this song that London will always London as in my memories ❤Great Britain 🇬🇧
That was another interesting walk. Love the old cemeteries with the fantastic statuary. And it looked like a lovely day for a walk.
The tricorn-shaped tower isn’t part of the new development. It’s been there since the 60s.
Loving the new book, reading at the moment along with Alan Moore's 'Jerusalem ' ❤️
Wow beautiful river..
gosh, i just watched the video of andrew walking about as the straw bear - and people were delighted to see him and get a picture!
The empress state building was originally a sixties office block now converted into flats amongst other things.
I used to work for London Underground back in the 1980s and 90s and visited Lots Road Power Station when it was running and supplied the Underground with electricity. It was one of two power stations that supplied electricity to the underground, the other is in Greenwich.
Stam- ford bridge, named after the river crossing! Not the famous battle up north as most think. Up the chelsea 💙
John, you missed part of the Kensington Canal, on which they built the tube line at West Brompton, and you can still see the original dried up canal running alongside the platform, with a small bridge entrance over it.
The tower block by West Brompton is not new it is Empress State Building and was built in 1962 and occupied by the MOD and now used by the Metropolitan Police.
It was a most enjoyable viewing on such a lovely day. Ive never visited either of those cemeteries so thank you for showing me around. I look forward to the next video. Best wishes.
There’s something particularly eerie about that cemetery. Looks strangely relaxed and peaceful at the same time.
It’s a really serene place
I visited Kensal Green in August 2018, after a month spent in London (unplanned, as my husband had a heart attack on landing in London from Canada, had to have surgery and recover enough to travel) We stayed near Hammersmith Hospital, and I wanted a serene day before our flight. I took the bus to Kensal Green, the nearest of the Magnificent Seven, grabbed a cheese and onion sandwich as part of a Meal Deal and ate it on the steps of the Anglican chapel in the video. So sad to see it fenced off now, but the experience was still amazingly calming.
it's a great place for a vampire movie
Chris! It is in the film! It is such a weird text. Think On and there is no name.
@@heidismit5261 heidi smith are you mid evil ?
Another classic lost river walk. Only a pity there aren't more of them because these are always interesting. By the way, as I recall it was always Charrington as in "church" in the adverts.. Must rush, the dhog is chasing a chat 😁
Wow!! Brilliant walk and video. West London is so fascinatingly complex.
Definitely want to visit both cemeteries when we’re in London soon.
Thanks for that John - you've delivered a good dose of nostalgia for me! Growing up we moved around a lot but never strayed far from the creek, living near Olympia, Earls Court, and North Kensington. I'm glad the residents of Gibbs Green have won the battle to save their estate. My enduring memory of the estate was when the 5 a side 'cage' was refurbished, I think funded by Chelsea FC. My primary was at the opening and we were promised Frank Lampard would visit, much to the excitement to me as a boyfood fan. Sadly he was late and the teachers brought us back to school before he came - I'll never get over that!
I was at Kensal Green yesterday to look for a grave. i didn't find it but remembered this video and went to look for the well. I found it and did remove the stone. Not easy to gauge how deep the well is but it is probably at least twenty feet. I can understand why you didn't remove the stone on camera but if I could get it back it would have been easy for you. It is perched on top of two bricks.
That tower on Lille Road is the Empress State Building. Headquarters of the 77th Brigade.
You're a wonderful story teller. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks so much Kay
I’ve been a little busy with work and some personal commitments, John, so just catching up on this bravura walk! What a ripper! And, what superb weather! Cheers! ❤️
Thanks Ashley
You made my day! A cemetery, a river and a walk - thank you!
Freddie Mercury's ashes are widely believed to have been placed in the garden of his house, Garden Lodge in Kensington.
Great walk! You really are an inspiration for my own walking-and as a Londoner in northern exile, a reminder of the rich diversity in all aspects of the word home truly is.
Such a tranquil journey.
excellent timing! just what i need to soothe my racing mind - thanks once again, john! i suggested to one of my nephews that he might like your videos with your 3 musketeers friends, iain, alan and nick - he's going to check out that last interview with alan and iain for starts! 😊
Brilliant- many thanks
Great walk. A new favourite river walk. Great photography as usual. @27:30 The Hand and Flower (flower!) usually pays, one way or another, to give in to temptation. (Yep, London Pride the better option imho. Even better HSB when its available in a Fullers establishment. ) A scuppered walk is still a walk, no? A pub on a riverbank often a sublime scuppering
Another wonderful walk with you John, albeit vicariously. I love it that the river determines the route you take. This way of walking opens up a whole new set of possibilities and experiences.
An excellent walk John and perfectly narrated as always. Cheered up my Monday! Thanks.
Another great video! My family originate from Kensal Town. We rhyme Kensal with “pencil” rather than “denzil”. Hard S rather than a Z
Wonderful again John ! Thanks .
That you read Ben Aaronovitch is really cool! Thank you for another great vid.
I love Ben’s books
Isn't it wonderful to have these cemeteries to walk around and explore? They are so quiet, no children and no playgrounds, usually no cafes either so you feel you have the place to yourself, what a lovely spot for summer picnics among beautiful monuments and architecture. Little Wormwood Scrubs is a big and delightful park, I ate wild plums from the trees and also saw a Shakespeare play one summer evening a few years ago, it's a shame you didn't pop in.
Absolutely wonderful John. I was born and raised in Dalgarno Gardens, played for hours in Little Wormwood Scrubs, and trainspotted by the Mitre Bridge in Scrubs Lane. Thank you for stirring so many great memories.
Thanks! Enjoyed immensely! A pint is rarely a bad idea. Like seeing the more “mundane” (probably not the right word as I do not mean to imply anything negative) areas of London🎉
Thanks so much - massively appreciated
Thank you John, have a great week.
Many thanks
If you haven’t seen it, it’s worth watching Underground, the 1928 machine age film noir thriller by Anthony Asquith, partly set in and around Lots Road power station, which supplied the Tube with the electrical power it needed. It paints a fascinating portrait of a long lost London. It is a silent, a year or two before the coming of talkies.
The Three Kings used to be the famous Nashville, many early punk and new wave acts played there.
Thank you for the esoteric walk. Lots of insights and glimpses of a London I would never care to walk through myself even though I was born there.
Another excellent video to watch on a Monday afternoon. 👌
Excellent as always John - very enjoyable. But you skipped possible comments about Steptoe & Son as well as the Republic of Frestonia......I am sure they will appear in future tales....
Fabulous video John through much of my old stamping ground.
I saw Rod Stewart at Olympia back in '77 who had the equally gravel voiced Kim Carnes as a special guest I seem to remember.
Went to many exhibitions at Earl's Court, but my personal highlight was seeing Led Zeppelin there twice in '75
Also worked in North End Road for a few years
I lived on bracewell Road,our basement was always flooded as the river ran under it
I really enjoyed that video, I stayed near Kensal Green Cemetery earlier in the year and we wandered round using a postcard map of the “famous graves”
Then on our last trip we went by the power station, it is a great building! I heard they forgot to tell the underground when it was decommissioned so they lost power for a while on the switch off day.
Nice one John. That walkway at the confluence with the River Thames - and the footbridges over the creek - were part of the Lots Road Power Station redevelopment. It's a lovely walk down there as it's starting to open up.
Thanks so much for this one John. My dear old Dad is resting in Kensal Green cemetery so I have spent many hours wandering around that peaceful space. I’ve never been to Brompton Cemetery and it looks beautiful, so you have inspired me to do this walk this weekend. Through watching your videos, I have discovered so many wonderful places and your commentary truly brings them to life for me. It has been a joy.
hope you have a great walk Mia
You are right, there is a raftload of books and documents about lost rivers of London. Hard to get your head around a river in a culvert, under a canal. A great walk
Vintage filmmaking, John. A truly engaging odyssey.
Lovely video, first time I've felt a pang for missing London. Didn't realise Grenfell was that long ago. Also didn't realise how much development was happening at Earls Court. Great to see people outside the pub. Another wonderful walk. When I hear Kings Road I also think of the wonderful 1985 documentary To The World's End, featuring Mr Tobias's Sweet shop, what a character.
And of course there was that great day we did the walk around Kensal Rise Sean
@@JohnRogersWalks I've never walked around a 'village' so much as I did that day. 🤣
Kings Road had it's moment 68 / 69 for me was it's Nadir ! Great video John much appreciated , the beautiful weather helped as well ☺️
Thanks John. Another great video. The 1970s film Steptoe and Son Rides Again filmed a funeral scene at Kensal Green cemetry and you could see the gasworks in the backgound.
I really need to watch that again!
@@JohnRogersWalks Please do. It has a great supporting cast , many of whom attend the funeral and the wake afterwards.I would have thought the Gasworks has been pulled down long ago.
I think this was one of your best walks!! Thank you!😊
I used to love going to the Kings road with my mum as a kid, shops like Flip and Hyper Hyper, had some great vintage and military clothing
Beautiful one, a great watch on a Monday evening after a long work day. I’d not think to call Burroughs cheeky, but: quite cheeky! Necromancy and cottaging 😅
Hi John.
Thank you for the video, as always. I’m glad you started at Kensal Green cemetery. I was in London for a long weekend almost 2 years ago to the day & exploring the cemetery looking for various tv filming locations and famous peoples grave sites, when I received a phone call telling me that my best friend had unfortunately died. I stayed longer than I would’ve and the peace and quiet helped me to relax and reflect.
I’ll never forget that day. 23/5/22.
Great video John 👍👍📗📗📗👍👍
Excellent walk John. And an honourable mention to the beautiful St Mary's church over your left shoulder. Very fond memories of that church and can see why Turner chose it to paint from. Your walk with Iain Sinclair there was super.
Magical video - thanks!
It isn’t just the landscape,history and architecture that are fascinating but also people watching of people going about their daily lives, a damn fine looking woman in a purple dress at 28 minute mark for instance. 😚👍
Every time someone does a tour of Kensal Green Cemetery, they never mention Marigold Churchill. Marigold, the daughter of Winston, died when she was 3 years old. Because Winston was in the Admiralty, he could get to Bladon, Oxon, where the family plot was and still is, she was temporarily buried here, However, Winston was not aware of the policy of the cemetery that no exhumes are allowed, thus she is buried here away from the family. I did verify this with the cemetery and they sent me plans of where she is buried, however i no longer have that. Also buried here is playwright Harold Pinter, husband of Lady Antonia Fraser. I have been to the UK 55 times but never visited here. Was always told it was not a safe area for a solo female. Love every one of your videos. Jane, Philadelphia
Pinter's grave! Thank you for mentioning it.
Two pints would be entirely admissable John. Lost river walks are brilliant, there's always a tingle down the spine contemplating these things, and I really must check out The Counters Creek for myself!
Nice one John. 🌟👍
Brilliant to cover two of the magnificent seven. And the river gods blessed you with wonderful weather too . Thanks for taking us John 👍🏻
Another amazing walk that has allowed me to revisit a lot of old haunts and areas that have been part of my life. A great sign off at Chelsea Creek with St Mary’s, Battersea prominent in the background. I think the Counters Creek says thank you John for telling its story.
Nice to get away from the politics and troubles of the world and watch your calming and interesting videos John. Cheers. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it John
Always enjoy a lovely cemetery walk. Thanks.
Two comments:
First a trivial one, there is a short footpath from West Kensington estate, behind the Holiday Express, leading to Lillie Road so it's not necessary to go back to North End Road.
Second an obscure trivia comment.
The first ever documented international chess match (actually a series of 6 separate matches) took place in London in 1834 between De la Labourdonnais of France an McDonnell of Ireland, the formers victory lead him to be regarded as the strongest player in the world. The relevance is that both players are buried at Kensal Green.
Half a century later the first ever official world championship match took place in 1886. The loser, Johann Zuckertort, is buried in Bromton cemetary, the grave was restored about a decade ago on intiative of grandmaster Stuart Conquest
Yet another one to remember. Thanks. This is my second comment, my first was some time ago. Again I look forward to bump into you were ever that may beeeee.👍👍
thanks Ron
Some captivating imagery along that walk. Enjoyed it thank you!
Excellent walk John, you are spot on regarding the feeling and style of West London .. it is such a Beautiful part of London.. those cemeteries I’ve been in myself so peaceful incredible
Lovely walk John - got me through the insomniac hours . . A honourable mention of dappling in there .
Saw ' The Stones ' at Earls Court in about 76 . It rocked basically ✌️.
Fabulous walk John, as ever.
Thanks so much for this one. I lived in Kensal Rise (right by the library) 87-96 but for my sins never went to the cemetery. Scrubs Lane was the 220 bus route to school. Micks fish bar was there even then. Interesting you mention about pottery, I remember fining remnants of old clay pipes in our garden. Glad to hear of the residents fighting back to save their estates. You talked about how expensive it is there. When I lived in KR it attracted people who couldn’t afford Notting Hill and Ladbroke Grove, lots of people in the media lived there as it wasn’t too far from the bbc. Seemed to get expensive pretty fast as I remember. Pushing others out and having to move on again.
There was an old sports ground off Lillie Rd called Lillie Bridge where a very early FA Cup Final took place.
Very interesting walk that revisits where I was brought up in the 60s in Norland Gardens (before it was subsumed by the West Cross route) opposite the Stewarts pub. I'm a big fan of the Rivers of London series and I enjoy revisiting areas of London through their pages both familar and new.
'The river defines the journey'. And, what an interesting journey taking you through such a varied cityscape. Rather a pity that we only get to see the hidden 'guide' to our journey, when it enters the Thames at Chelsea. Makes you wonder if any of its other reputed sources are visible. Very interesting and enjoyable walk. Thank you.
Thanks Malcolm
Hi John years ago I was walking through Brompton Cemetery early one morning, listening to my walk land, and as I was getting near the catacombs, a bit cloudy mist appeared out of the mist camera carriage drawn by horses for a second I thought What the , then I saw the film crew they were filming some victorian melodrama and as I was so engrossed in listening to whatever it was, I was listening to, and reading the headstones in notice the signs saying they were filming that day did make you wander for a moment
Love that anecdote Colin
Wonderful video, John, thanks. Lots road power station is well known to london underground freaks like me!
These are fantastic videos. I love hearing about and learning of lost rivers of London. Great stuff
I grew up in All Souls Avenue, Willesden.
John! Have you seen a mini mausoleum with THINK ON in mosaic! I was there in 2222. October on a most glorious day. And on a grave a statue of the Rolls Royce lady. I love this cemetary. I will be back. Soon.
A time traveler.
@@chrisblay oooo now I know...
The tower you refer to as part of the new development, around 30 minutes in, is the Empress State Building and it's been there since 1962...
Ah - I stand corrected
Thanks
Thank you so much - very kind of you
@@JohnRogersWalks you are welcome thought you could have a drink on me on one of your walks. I thoroughly enjoy watching your You Tube walks as they inspire me and give me places to go out to & discover areas I do not know
Back in the late 60s Kensington was known as Little Oz due to all the Australian and New Zealanders who lived there. Many a great Bar B Q on the roof of their flats . The Chelsea Potter Pub in The Kings Road was our meet up place. Then a long (wasn't meant to be) walk back to Little Oz. 😎
I always seem to end up in the Chelsea Potter when I’m in that area
So the creek is shadowed by the West London Railway from Willesden Junction to the Chelsea Railway bridge!
Betjeman pronounces Charrington with a ch (as in cheese) in his Kensal Green poem.
That IS the North Pole pub as can be seen on Gmaps' historical/backdating option.
Excellent walk, as per. Nice to see the pint of (cask?) ale. Here in the U.S. cask ale is not too common.
Awesome stuff John, as usual, keep it coming!...
Thanks James - plenty more on the way
Nice one John, wonderful vid...
Thanks Ralph
Another day. Another lost river walk and quite fascinating from Kensal Green Cemetary to West Brompton Cemetary via the King's Road and Fulham Road.I particularly enjoyed The Kensal Green part as I lived backing onto there for five years and used to cut through to get to Sainsburys in Ladbrooke Grove many times a week!!! Hope you quaffed your second pint!!!!
Thanks Ennis - yes that second pint went down very well
I used to live just down the road in Kensal Rise
Great area Ken
Loved the walk...lived in Kensal Green for a good many years close the the Paradise pub....by way of...
Do think you were a little dismissive about my favourite building...Empress Tower. Built in 62 and dramatic when seen afar. I fear its views will get destroyed with the new dev.
Wonderful walk.
John, given your love of towpaths/canals/narrow boats, can i suggest you read Narrow Boat by L.T.C (Tom) Rolt......covers the decline of haulage and is said to instigate the leisure usage of the canals....a damned good read
An amazing walk John 👍
Glad those old buildings are being rejuvenated instead of knocked down. They are marvellous edifice. .in New Zealand we don't have that history .
The Westway was the only part of the bonkers Abercrombie Plan for post-WW2 London development that got built - probably because it was the only part that made some sense. Freston Road was the site of "The Republic of Frestonia" which declared independence from the UK in 1974 mainly as a protest against council policies on evictions.
superb John!! thanks for this!!!!
How refreshing to read all the comments on your channel, John, without any of the ubiquitous "Londonistan" contributions that we keep seeing elsewhere on YT!