I've had a few 1960A and B cabs and the best thing about using 4x12s is transporting them from place to place. They're so lightweight and compact. Just a pure joy. 😭
Hey I know this is a 4 year old vid, but just had to say I love this video. Best ever. It's a shame that you have to cover it, those box joints with the baltic birch are beautiful! You really know what you're doing! Thanks for posting!
I've tossed around the idea of building my own 4x12 just as a fun project. I had both a 1960AV and a Mesa OS 4x12 straight cab but in the interest of saving my lower back, I sold them off and have exclusively used 2x12s for the past 10 years or so. That said, there's plenty of times where I miss the "oomph" of a 4x12 and rather than just buy one, the idea of building one always tempts me more.
Stunning work Don! I'm very impressed at your skills.... looking at the plan seems like a simple thing, but looking into the build, you can see you put a lot of work into it.
amazing work! I am so impressed! On the other hand I realized that it takes some serious skills and tools to build one. I just can't do this myself, this good! WELL DONE!
Hand tools can get this done also. It takes longer but, imagine the connection you’d have with woodworkers from a different era. It’s freakin spiritual
Very nice work- love that you used Baltic Birch, that is some of the most stable, solid build material out there. What you have now is a PREMIUM version of a Marshall cabinet- there is no way their profit margin could handle making cabinets like that... 🙂
Thanks for the PDF, my first attempt at a 1x12 with the Marshall look was a fail because of the cleats, rather the lack of cleats, and the round over radius size. My second attempt, thanks to you, is going much better.
Stephanie - I am glad it helped. I got inspired by the work of others on TH-cam. The PDF is not mine but one I found and used as a starting point for my design.
Craftsman, superb, I searched for this as am building a small 2x10 but wanted that thick look at the front, had an idea it was just the same ply glued but wanted to be sure. I know also know they are clawed cleats.
Perfect! Even better than the original! I see you put in a quad of V30s. Just picked up an original 1998 1960 Marshall cab with V30s!! I'm tossing up whether to keep this way or do Friedmanesque and I have another cab with all Greenbacks, so make a pair of 4x12s that have Greenbacks in the top and V30s in the bottom?!?? It's nice to have cabinets with different speakers and A-B them to a head, but this method is the best of both worlds as you have the mid bite of Greenbacks, but tight bottom of V30's!
fantastic job! I'm in the process of building my first cabinet, a 2x12 based on a 1960a. Watching this video really gets me excited to finish mine, though it won't look nearly as good as this. The PDF really helps too!
I get it was to pair with that head but honestly I feel like the amount of work and quality that went into this you should have made it something unique.
Nice work, but I laughed out loud what I got to the end and saw a JCM 900 was going to go through it. Kinda like throwing a 4 cylinder into a '67 Shelby GT-500 when restoring it.
Hi great video! I was wondering about the white piping around the perimeter of the front baffle? What did you use and how did you install it? Really great build, sir!!
"Holy Freak-n WOW" - you are a most Skilled Woods Men, truly, I have two cabinets I'd like you to build for my birthday in August. It would be a 1965A-B 4X10 with Celestion G10 Gold 10 inch 40-watt Alnico Blue Label . . . Is this at all possible ? ? ? ? Come on, It's My Birthday for Heavens sake - LOL - Please be my Geppetto - Hope to hear from you -
Thanks for the compliments. I'm not doing commissions at this time. I'm in the home stretch of a related project. I'm building a '59 Les Paul inspired guitar. Perhaps I will do a video on that too.
Thanks Eric - I am not finding any of my measurements from this project. For the rotating casters, I seem to remember this - I located them such that the outermost edge of the wheels would be even with the edge of the box when rotated in that direction i.e. you would never quite see the wheels if looking straight down at the box from overhead. So, get the measurement from the vertical axis of the caster stem to the outside of the wheel. Use that measurement to locate the center of the hole for the caster socket in the bottom of the cabinet. For the anti-skid tray, I just measured the width distance of the feet on the amp head center to center. I centered that dimension on the width of the cabinet. Front to back, I just centered the tray.
You've inspired me to build one with my son. Looks like we both use the Incra LS router table with Whiteside bits. One question I must ask. When cutting the 3/4" dados for the box joints, my pins and cutouts are exactly the same size and won't go together. Do you use the micro adjust to offset cut some relief? Or is there another work around?
I did not have that issue. I only used the micro adjuster to make sure the edge of my bit was exactly in line with the fence. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps your bit is not precisely 0.75 inch.
Great video, looks like a very high quality build. I notice there are no risers to lift the grill cloth off the baffle to prevent vibration. Did you find this to be a problem? I’m currently in the middle of a similar 2x12 build and would like to do without the extra cleats along the baffle if you didn’t find any issues.
I have no issues with vibration and the cloth is only stretched out hand tight. When stapling, I drove a couple in the center of one side. Went to the opposite side and stretched it out and drove a couple of staples in the center. Did the remaining two sides the same way. I then worked my way from the center one staple at a time then moved to another side and repeated.
Hi Don, your video is one of the best out there in terms of self building a speaker cabinet. I also am looking to build one and I have some questions about your built that I hope you can help me with. I am looking to build with 18mm plywood the main frame. I can't quite understand which wood are you using for the 4 speakers and the depth. Regards from Portugal.
Hi ! That build is amazing ! I do have a question, since I'm planning to make something similar. How do you make 1" radius rounded corners with a router ? I can't find 1" radius bits so I guess you have to use an other bit and pass on both side of the corner ?
Thanks for your interest. I don't remember where I got it but I do remember getting explicitly for this project. A search of Amazon shows multiple options. Definitely go with 1/2" shank.
It's been so long I dont remember. I think they were 2' x 4' sheets that I got at a local woodworker supply store. I used 3/4" everywhere but the back panel
Great job Don, Q. the speaker baffle on the 4x12 always confuses me when I look at the pdf diagram. It shows you have to thicken the front edges of the cab by adding 3/4 x 7/8 strips all around. The baffle has a 1/2 inch frame around top and bottom halves (to suspend the screen slightly above the speakers) and then you screw the baffle directly to those added thickening strips from behind. But you mention a dado on the baffle , but I don't see that on the PDF. Is the dado really needed or was that just your refinement. Your video mentioned adding additional strips but was not really clear on what was done and why. Could you clarify please as I will probably have a go at a build myself encouraged by your efforts.
Nigel - the PDF was my starting point. It was mainly for establishing dimensions. I used 3/4" plywood for the baffles where I believe the PDF called for 1/2". I did not put cleats on the front of the baffle. I just let the grill cloth rest directly against the front of the baffle. I did the dadoes simply so a portion of the baffles would extend further forward and engage the piping (which was stapled to the cleats on the cabinet) in a pleasing way.
Pilot holes first. The anti skid trays have the same rivets (I showed pre drilling those holes even before putting on the tolex). With the corner guards, I drilled pilot holes one at a time as I installed them. I held the corner guard in it's position and drilled the hole for it's rivet on the face of the amp. I drove that rivet in. Then I did the other two the same way.
Hey Don - that's a GREAT video. Best I've seen. One question about putting tolex on the front with the slant. I built one years ago but never figured out how to get the tolex on the slant flat without it bunching up. I finally had to make a cut at the angle but it showed. Any tips? Thanks!
Richard - I first used a sharpie on the wood in the area of the seam. I made a rough cut from the "point" of the slant to the edge of the tolex that split the angle of the slant. I then smoothed out the upper part and then the lower part. This created a little overlap. I took a straight edge and cut again from the point over the overlap and made sure I cut through both layers. I then peeled them both back and removed the cutoff pieces. I then re-smooth the upper and lower flaps and had a pretty good seam.
Lance - I did this more as a personal challenge than for economy. I seem to remember the number being around 1200. But, I always end up buying new tools when I do something like this. I know I got a quality 1" radius round-over bit and a pneumatic stapler. I know that I now have a cabinet that will definitely last. The parts and suppliers list is in the description if you want to check current prices.
It's been 3 years since I created this video - don't have them available. I know that they were pulled from TH-cam rolyalty free music library. Looking at the audio tracks on the video source, the first song file name is "Song_for_Michael.mp3" and the second is "Ready_and_Steady.mp3"
I have a question I can't find the answer to anywhere. Im thinking of building a 212 closed cab. if I put a divider piece of wood in the middle of it between the speakers ... on the inside, from top to bottom, baffle to back...what effect would that have?
The first one was more expensive to build than to buy. Like most of my projects, there is usually a tool or accessory purchase along with materials. The tools I can remember purchasing for this one included a heat gun, pneumatic stapler, and a 1" radius roundover router bit. Just the wood and speakers were probably about 750.00. This was all about the woodworking challenge and having something of unquestioned excellent quality at the end. I know the plywood, joinery, and speakers are all top-of-the line for this cabinet.
Thank you for your relevant input. Clearly you did not read the description. As an aside, this build cost more than had I bought a real cabinet. It was not about the money. It was about the challenge.
Impressive, it was much better than the original made by Marshall. Congratulations excellent work.
I've had a few 1960A and B cabs and the best thing about using 4x12s is transporting them from place to place. They're so lightweight and compact. Just a pure joy. 😭
Yaa! It's like they "Move Themselves" from gig to gig !!!
I looked inside my cab and your over qualified to get a job at marshall 👍
hahaha 🤣🤣🤣
Hey I know this is a 4 year old vid, but just had to say I love this video. Best ever. It's a shame that you have to cover it, those box joints with the baltic birch are beautiful! You really know what you're doing! Thanks for posting!
I've tossed around the idea of building my own 4x12 just as a fun project. I had both a 1960AV and a Mesa OS 4x12 straight cab but in the interest of saving my lower back, I sold them off and have exclusively used 2x12s for the past 10 years or so.
That said, there's plenty of times where I miss the "oomph" of a 4x12 and rather than just buy one, the idea of building one always tempts me more.
I love that the test run is a Kix tune!
Speaker cabinet made by a master craftsman. Wonderful build! Great detail.
Stunning work Don! I'm very impressed at your skills.... looking at the plan seems like a simple thing, but looking into the build, you can see you put a lot of work into it.
Very cool. I’ve build many cabinets but I’ve never tried to do a Marshall clone. This is making me want to give it a shot.
EXTREMELY amazing! This is one high end cab! Well done!
amazing work! I am so impressed! On the other hand I realized that it takes some serious skills and tools to build one. I just can't do this myself, this good! WELL DONE!
Hand tools can get this done also. It takes longer but, imagine the connection you’d have with woodworkers from a different era. It’s freakin spiritual
Very nice work- love that you used Baltic Birch, that is some of the most stable, solid build material out there. What you have now is a PREMIUM version of a Marshall cabinet- there is no way their profit margin could handle making cabinets like that... 🙂
You have no clue what you're talking about
The exclent build quality makes it an obvious fake. Way too precise to have come from Marshall.
Lol
@@diegocampista3971 I built mine more sloppy like the original.
@@qua7771 Do you have any pictures? Im interested.
@@mrproplayer7687 I was being ironic. Unfortunately, we cannot share photos in the comment section here.
Love it. Best I can do is make a video of me buying a cabinet.
Best I can do is make a video of me watching a video of you buying a cabinet.
Contrary Mary says the cab is excellent ! Great Job Don
Thanks for the PDF, my first attempt at a 1x12 with the Marshall look was a fail because of the cleats, rather the lack of cleats, and the round over radius size. My second attempt, thanks to you, is going much better.
Stephanie - I am glad it helped. I got inspired by the work of others on TH-cam. The PDF is not mine but one I found and used as a starting point for my design.
Craftsman, superb, I searched for this as am building a small 2x10 but wanted that thick look at the front, had an idea it was just the same ply glued but wanted to be sure. I know also know they are clawed cleats.
Amazing, It's just what I was looking for...
Great build and attention to detail - looks awesome!
You put my cabinet building skills to shame lol. I had bare minimal tools when I built mine, it helps to have the right tools haha. Great video.
Thanks!
absolutely excelent job!!! congrats for This great job.
Really pro job there man. I bet it sounds as awesome as it looks.
Beyond gorgeous
Superb craftsmanship
Perfect! Even better than the original!
I see you put in a quad of V30s. Just picked up an original 1998 1960 Marshall cab with V30s!! I'm tossing up whether to keep this way or do Friedmanesque and I have another cab with all Greenbacks, so make a pair of 4x12s that have Greenbacks in the top and V30s in the bottom?!??
It's nice to have cabinets with different speakers and A-B them to a head, but this method is the best of both worlds as you have the mid bite of Greenbacks, but tight bottom of V30's!
I chose the speakers based on what I found out about what the original amp head's owner used.
wow that was a super rad build! good job and thanks f the share! T4TS!
Lovely build, a master at work. I’d love to be able to create something like this! Great video, many thanks.
Niiiice - I'm IMPRESSED
I'd prob just do a hack job that held together - but gee wiz thats a Nice cab!!!
Beautifull build, the nicest one i have seen on youtube !!
Well done sir 👍 Lovely project and excellent build quality
Wow...awesome job. Better than anything Marshall could build!
Thanks! 😃
Kix! Awesome Job!
You made one hell of a cabinet. Good job!
Handsome work, my man. Well Done!~~
fantastic job! I'm in the process of building my first cabinet, a 2x12 based on a 1960a. Watching this video really gets me excited to finish mine, though it won't look nearly as good as this. The PDF really helps too!
Post a video of yours here when you are done.
Dude, thanks
building my own as well
Great work! Build me a Marshall bass cab! 🎸
Wow - what great work and thought! Looks Awesome!
This was really great 👍👍
Impressive, nicely done!
Amazing!
Thank you!
Beautifully made cab. I do not have woodworking skills so I'm green with envy! Lol!
But V30s?!? Really??? You lost me there. Lol
Great job on the cab!
Super boulot 🤙🤙
I get it was to pair with that head but honestly I feel like the amount of work and quality that went into this you should have made it something unique.
Nice work, but I laughed out loud what I got to the end and saw a JCM 900 was going to go through it. Kinda like throwing a 4 cylinder into a '67 Shelby GT-500 when restoring it.
The head belonged to one of my guitar heros.
Better than the real thing
good luck finding that baltic birch today
...and if you did, be prepared to get a second mortgage.
What's the music in this vid?
Hi great video! I was wondering about the white piping around the perimeter of the front baffle? What did you use and how did you install it? Really great build, sir!!
I bought the piping at AmplifiedParts.com. It has about a 1/2" tab that was stapled to the cabinet (not the baffle)
Fantastic job. May I ask what is the first music track please?
"Holy Freak-n WOW" - you are a most Skilled Woods Men, truly, I have two cabinets I'd like you to build for my birthday in August.
It would be a 1965A-B 4X10 with Celestion G10 Gold 10 inch 40-watt Alnico Blue Label . . .
Is this at all possible ? ? ? ? Come on, It's My Birthday for Heavens sake - LOL - Please be my Geppetto - Hope to hear from you -
Thanks for the compliments. I'm not doing commissions at this time. I'm in the home stretch of a related project. I'm building a '59 Les Paul inspired guitar. Perhaps I will do a video on that too.
Very nice, inspiring work! Sorry if I missed this but what are the measurements to properly place casters and anti-skid trays? Thanks.
Thanks Eric - I am not finding any of my measurements from this project. For the rotating casters, I seem to remember this - I located them such that the outermost edge of the wheels would be even with the edge of the box when rotated in that direction i.e. you would never quite see the wheels if looking straight down at the box from overhead. So, get the measurement from the vertical axis of the caster stem to the outside of the wheel. Use that measurement to locate the center of the hole for the caster socket in the bottom of the cabinet. For the anti-skid tray, I just measured the width distance of the feet on the amp head center to center. I centered that dimension on the width of the cabinet. Front to back, I just centered the tray.
@@donphillips553 This is helpful, thanks! I don't have the amp yet but worse case I'll go measure one in a music store 🙂
You've inspired me to build one with my son. Looks like we both use the Incra LS router table with Whiteside bits. One question I must ask. When cutting the 3/4" dados for the box joints, my pins and cutouts are exactly the same size and won't go together. Do you use the micro adjust to offset cut some relief? Or is there another work around?
I did not have that issue. I only used the micro adjuster to make sure the edge of my bit was exactly in line with the fence. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps your bit is not precisely 0.75 inch.
Has realizado un Excelente trabajo, felicitaciones.
Nice !!........great job !
I've got a brand-new Marshall basketweave clone and boy am I ever nervous about drilling holes through the beautiful grill for the emblem/logo!
very very nice Job ! wouww ... ;-) well done !
Nice job. Glad I don't have to move it. Peace.
Great video, looks like a very high quality build. I notice there are no risers to lift the grill cloth off the baffle to prevent vibration. Did you find this to be a problem? I’m currently in the middle of a similar 2x12 build and would like to do without the extra cleats along the baffle if you didn’t find any issues.
I have no issues with vibration and the cloth is only stretched out hand tight. When stapling, I drove a couple in the center of one side. Went to the opposite side and stretched it out and drove a couple of staples in the center. Did the remaining two sides the same way. I then worked my way from the center one staple at a time then moved to another side and repeated.
@@donphillips553 great, thanks for the tip, will do the same when I come to put the grill cloth on.
Good job. Have you built a Head Cab?
Hi Don, your video is one of the best out there in terms of self building a speaker cabinet. I also am looking to build one and I have some questions about your built that I hope you can help me with.
I am looking to build with 18mm plywood the main frame.
I can't quite understand which wood are you using for the 4 speakers and the depth.
Regards from Portugal.
The Baltic Birch is 3/4" everywhere (including the speaker panels). The only exception is the screw-on back panel which is 1/2"
@@donphillips553 thank you so much for the reply.
Cheers and keep up the great work.
Hi ! That build is amazing ! I do have a question, since I'm planning to make something similar. How do you make 1" radius rounded corners with a router ? I can't find 1" radius bits so I guess you have to use an other bit and pass on both side of the corner ?
Thanks for your interest. I don't remember where I got it but I do remember getting explicitly for this project. A search of Amazon shows multiple options. Definitely go with 1/2" shank.
Where can I find the music at the beginning ?
I don't remember the titles. Everything that was not me was youtube royalty free tracks
Bout how many sheets of birch did you use?
It's been so long I dont remember. I think they were 2' x 4' sheets that I got at a local woodworker supply store. I used 3/4" everywhere but the back panel
i'm looking for a pdf for a 1922 cab do you know where i can find it?
I do not. Sorry!
do you have the plans to make a amp head?
Nope!
Amazing cab, nice work !!! Not a fan of those heads tho.
Great job Don, Q. the speaker baffle on the 4x12 always confuses me when I look at the pdf diagram. It shows you have to thicken the front edges of the cab by adding 3/4 x 7/8 strips all around. The baffle has a 1/2 inch frame around top and bottom halves (to suspend the screen slightly above the speakers) and then you screw the baffle directly to those added thickening strips from behind. But you mention a dado on the baffle , but I don't see that on the PDF. Is the dado really needed or was that just your refinement. Your video mentioned adding additional strips but was not really clear on what was done and why. Could you clarify please as I will probably have a go at a build myself encouraged by your efforts.
Nigel - the PDF was my starting point. It was mainly for establishing dimensions. I used 3/4" plywood for the baffles where I believe the PDF called for 1/2". I did not put cleats on the front of the baffle. I just let the grill cloth rest directly against the front of the baffle. I did the dadoes simply so a portion of the baffles would extend further forward and engage the piping (which was stapled to the cleats on the cabinet) in a pleasing way.
Ok thanks that makes sense.
Un trabajo maravilloso!!!!!!
Don, how do the rivets for the corners get installed? Just hammered straight in, or pilot hole, then hammered? Superb attention to detail!
Pilot holes first. The anti skid trays have the same rivets (I showed pre drilling those holes even before putting on the tolex). With the corner guards, I drilled pilot holes one at a time as I installed them. I held the corner guard in it's position and drilled the hole for it's rivet on the face of the amp. I drove that rivet in. Then I did the other two the same way.
Thamk you very much
Thank you very much, NOT Thampk
Hey Don - that's a GREAT video. Best I've seen. One question about putting tolex on the front with the slant. I built one years ago but never figured out how to get the tolex on the slant flat without it bunching up. I finally had to make a cut at the angle but it showed. Any tips? Thanks!
Richard - I first used a sharpie on the wood in the area of the seam. I made a rough cut from the "point" of the slant to the edge of the tolex that split the angle of the slant. I then smoothed out the upper part and then the lower part. This created a little overlap. I took a straight edge and cut again from the point over the overlap and made sure I cut through both layers. I then peeled them both back and removed the cutoff pieces. I then re-smooth the upper and lower flaps and had a pretty good seam.
@@donphillips553 Thanks for the help Don! I will do it that way.
that was fuckin cool dude
How much for a slanted vertical 2x12 raw cab?!?! Dead serious
Appreciate the confidence in my ability. However, I am not doing any commission pieces at this time.
Excellent work! How good are you at making some drums? ;)
Thanks - I actually just finished building a guitar based on '59 Les Paul plans. I may post a video on that at some point in the future.
you didnt show how to wire speakers and back plate
Good point. I guess I was more concerned with photographing the "woodworking" steps.
What was the total cost of this build minus the speakers?
Lance - I did this more as a personal challenge than for economy. I seem to remember the number being around 1200. But, I always end up buying new tools when I do something like this. I know I got a quality 1" radius round-over bit and a pneumatic stapler. I know that I now have a cabinet that will definitely last. The parts and suppliers list is in the description if you want to check current prices.
Better than Marshall does!
Back ground music link please
It's been 3 years since I created this video - don't have them available. I know that they were pulled from TH-cam rolyalty free music library. Looking at the audio tracks on the video source, the first song file name is "Song_for_Michael.mp3" and the second is "Ready_and_Steady.mp3"
I have a question I can't find the answer to anywhere. Im thinking of building a 212 closed cab.
if I put a divider piece of wood in the middle of it between the speakers ... on the inside, from top to bottom, baffle to back...what effect would that have?
I don't know the answer to that question
klau ganti ram nya aja bisa gan...
Having done this...
What would be cheaper, buying or building?
The first one was more expensive to build than to buy. Like most of my projects, there is usually a tool or accessory purchase along with materials. The tools I can remember purchasing for this one included a heat gun, pneumatic stapler, and a 1" radius roundover router bit. Just the wood and speakers were probably about 750.00. This was all about the woodworking challenge and having something of unquestioned excellent quality at the end. I know the plywood, joinery, and speakers are all top-of-the line for this cabinet.
@@donphillips553 Thank you for responding!
I will take this on mind due to I only have basic tools
It might look like one, but it’s way too well built to fool anyone.
That 3/4 tho. 120lb'er? Ouch. I built 3 of these w 3/4 Baltic before I found out Marshall uses 5/8. Ugh.
Superb build man. What glue did you use for the tolex?
Thanks Kevin. I brushed Weldwood "The Original" contact cement on the wood. I sprayed 3M High Strength 90 on the back of the tolex.
Don Phillips awesome thanks man
Nice build man! Only wondering why you would clone a marshall cab and not lets say a friedman one or a mesa?
Thanks! I built it to match the amplifier head I got from Kix guitarist Brian Forsythe.
nothing like a marshall
I’ll go with a cardboard box 😮
I can only hope I buy a fake made this well if I do.
The only logos that Mojotone has is Fender.
This build is 3 years old. I guess they must have stopped carrying them.
Marshall should be nervous!
You can buy them for peanuts!
+++ top 👍👍👍+++
Sad part is all those tools cost the price of a top of the line cab 🤣
Why is that sad?
@@donphillips553 because were poor!!!!
Probably built it better than Marshall
Terrible build, looks far too robust and well made to be a Marshall cabinet ;)
Why put a Marshall logo on a Fake. Impress your friends what a big spender you are? Got a fake Rolex too?
Thank you for your relevant input. Clearly you did not read the description. As an aside, this build cost more than had I bought a real cabinet. It was not about the money. It was about the challenge.