I wish I had the memory you do I have to start of dementia so I can't remember where things go I was a mechanic pretty much my whole life on the farm butt in my later years in life my health have failed me I used to love working in vehicles and tractors and whatever come my way but no my memory is gone and every time you fast forward it reminds me of Alvin Simon and Theodore give me a little giggle keep up the great work never worked or owned or driven a Oliver tractor never had anything except for Allis Chalmers wd45 Fords International in one case but keep up the good work watching you brings me back to what I used to be thank you for that
Amazing video, I am so impressed with the way you take the time to explain what you are doing, thank you for doing that 👍👍looking forward to the next video 👍👍😀
Really like your videos, especially when you do projects like this 1950T series of videos. You missed your calling being an auto shop or machine shop instructor. You take patience and explain what you're looking at and what you're doing and why things have procedures to follow and do it right the first time.
Fluxing the head is definitely a good idea. Fixing the the block will hopefully get the sleeves to go in properly. I was surprised when it didn't show the head gasket being the problem. I really pray that it is not the head. One thing is for sure, it will be as good or better than factory when you are done. You are very thorough when you do something. I wish you the best of luck and will keep watching to see how it goes.
Really enjoy watching your tear down. Sure hope the head is ok. I had a 1855 that was on the verge of shooting craps, I traded it for a 2-150. but I missed the 1855, it was a good sized tractor and I never had any problems. Keep up the good work, hope you have a great 2022. Lee
When you mentioned pressure in the radiator my first thought was a pinhole in the sleeve but after seeing standing coolant on top of the piston makes the cylinder head look suspect for cracks . Head gasket don't look bad to me as well . On allot of " wet sleeve " type engines if the counter bore leaks it will run out from under the head down the block not effecting the engine other than the outside leak . Don't know what I would do about the crankshaft . If the engine has allot of hours on it now and it's made it this far might be tempted to polish it up and put it back with the .020 under mains and standard rods assuming you can get the bearings . Never was a big fan of turning a crankshaft down on a turbo charged engine . More than likely at 52:10 on the mains is that happened at the last machine shop it was in , that taper on the last journal was sure funky . We ran in to some similar problems on an Oliver 1800 last year that came in with a low oil pressure complaint .Crankshaft machine work was all over the place on tolerance and thank God they quit at .040 under bearings and had .035 end play in the block . 😀 I sure like your engine stand , looks like a handy item ! Are most parts available for the 310 ?
You can feel the deformities in the crank journals. It is beyond polishing and a good 310 crank is impossible to find and the last one we were able to get was 800 bucks. And that was 10 or 11 years ago so lord knows what a good one will run now. If you want a 310 to hold up and carry good oil pressure you don’t do close enough is good enough because it ain’t. Poor oil pressure is a common problem with them to begin with.
@@Oliver66FarmBoy AMEN and oil pressure was the problem on the Waukesha Diesel engine ! We went around that on buddy Mike's 1800 Oliver with a dry sump system th-cam.com/video/WB17FdgWL4U/w-d-xo.html Extra pump and oil cooler got it back in line . Oil pressure is what keeps the crankshaft in good shape . " Wink "
Just got done watching. Good job.👍. For the problems the engine has you might want want to go deep in checking more things out. Like checking out the line bore of the mains. And rods resized and balanced. With the crank getting redone, maybe get it balance? I am a type of person that doing things perfect . Results in the Best work done for the longest lifespan 🙂
I´m gonna love watching this series! Only better spent time, I can think of, than watching you and CAT extraordinaire Squatch restauring old machines on youtube would be to be in the same shop.
I agree he needs to teach shop class. I know nothing about engines and the inner workings of motors. I like how he explain s everything to people who may not know. :)
I can certainly sense and understand your frustration with not finding a clear reason for the head gasket blowing. Personally I would not know where to start which makes this series most interesting to watch.
I was pretty excited about this project. Now I’m just hoping you don’t find anything worse. I’m sure that engine will be better than new once your done with it though. I have a great amount of respect for you for never doing these things half-assed.
I hope you dont finding anything wrong in the head...that would suck! A little tip for you that someone showed me for getting nuts out of the sockets. Hang on to it tight and let the impact hammer a few times. Comes right out! Lol
Humm whole lot of very interesting mr bond going on there. Im with you that somebody messed with it that maybe should not have been. You'll get her straighten out. Hopefully with out going full another crank ect on it
I’m guessing it was pushing compression through the sleeve flange on that side. I know it’s away from the water side of the head, but that’s the only thing that makes sense.
@@Oliver66FarmBoy well, I’m like you. I’d worry about the head enough it wouldn’t let me just drop it back on there. Pretty optimistic that it’s fine though.
I bet adding a oil temp gage and a pyro would go a long ways to help makje these last. Lol silicone for a head gasket. My .02 is 40 under is too much. What's the chance of findiing a crank? I agree with you, get the head checked. Thanks for the video!
Speaking of a shop to use have you thought of maybe renting or a short lease on a commercial building if any are local and available? I once rented a "corner" of a local shop for a project and it was a dry warm place to work.
Strange the amount of antifreeze in number two. If on compression stroke, that would have stopped things for sure. Or you sure it didn’t get there on the disassembling process. Just really weird. Every Oliver head or head gasket issue I have worked one was 5 or 6. What has been your experience? Can’t wait to learned what happened though. Hopefully, the cheapest would be the liner. Good luck, thanks for the video.
Good information, I’m currently working on our 1855 engine. It had its original none cooler block that windowed itself in the 80’s, local dealer welded the pieces back in the block. Ran that way for 32 years. Bought a complete 1955 310 just got her all tore down to the machine shop. What overhaul kit are you using?
It’s not as bad as the reputation it has. It’s no different than the 560 Farmall transmission issues. The problems were fixed early on but the damage was done.
Is this a Waukesha engine? Were the engines made in house by Oliver in Charles City, or were they delivered as a pre-assembled sub-assembly to Charles City?
The coolant in that cylinder is perplexing. I would think if it was getting that much coolant in the cylinder after being shut down that it would be noticeable on start up and the last couple times you started it on camera it sure didn't seem to be burning any coolant. Hope that head is ok.
Gonna put fresh paint on the motor after ya get everything fixed? Id probably put fresh paint, that way don't have to do it later, but she should definitely run better after it's all done
Man, hope that head is okay. I've heard that injector sleeves can leak coolant too(Heard about it, dont mean it right). How many hours are on that tractor? I thought it didn't have that many, but may be remembering wrong.
@@Oliver66FarmBoy well age makes the Teflon and silicone deteriorate and so then the damper is not effective anymore, a new one sure smoothed out my 1.5 million mile Caterpillar C 15, at close to 50 years it sure isn't as new as it was
With the wear that rear main has and a chance it not cleaning up at 30 to save the crankshaft contact Indy cylinder head in Indpls ask about getting the journals built back up and cut back to std
we have a machine shop dose everything that you said in your last video that hard to find. He is a every picky guy on his machine work. I have toke so may heads to him and some motor blocks from tractors and one pickup motor that he built for me on a Ih 200 pickup that i am restoring right now. But he is 2 to 3 months be hide on work. If a business drops a motor or head off he always make sure they are done first then he goes back to working on drop offs. But we just found out he had coivd and just got out the hospital yesreday and he was in the hospital for 2 weeks. But today i had to take a head off on a 3020 to get it rebuilt and went to a nother machine shop that dose just about the same as but has more workers. The machine shop that i always go to it is just him and one other person. But if you like i can give you his name and number if you wanna some machine work done. He is located in Upper Sandusky Ohio and NO NOT by the lake we are 90 minutes south from the lake erie
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I wish I had the memory you do I have to start of dementia so I can't remember where things go I was a mechanic pretty much my whole life on the farm butt in my later years in life my health have failed me I used to love working in vehicles and tractors and whatever come my way but no my memory is gone and every time you fast forward it reminds me of Alvin Simon and Theodore give me a little giggle keep up the great work never worked or owned or driven a Oliver tractor never had anything except for Allis Chalmers wd45 Fords International in one case but keep up the good work watching you brings me back to what I used to be thank you for that
Impressed by your mechanical knowledge
Always learn something Carpenter while watching your videos. Thank you for that Sir.
Amazing video, I am so impressed with the way you take the time to explain what you are doing, thank you for doing that 👍👍looking forward to the next video 👍👍😀
Really like your videos, especially when you do projects like this 1950T series of videos. You missed your calling being an auto shop or machine shop instructor. You take patience and explain what you're looking at and what you're doing and why things have procedures to follow and do it right the first time.
I’m not patient enough to teach.
@@Oliver66FarmBoy I've got a lot of patience but at times I too would like to wring some necks.
Fluxing the head is definitely a good idea. Fixing the the block will hopefully get the sleeves to go in properly. I was surprised when it didn't show the head gasket being the problem. I really pray that it is not the head. One thing is for sure, it will be as good or better than factory when you are done. You are very thorough when you do something. I wish you the best of luck and will keep watching to see how it goes.
If it was easy everyone would do it.
Really enjoy watching your tear down. Sure hope the head is ok. I had a 1855 that was on the verge of shooting craps, I traded it for a 2-150. but I missed the 1855, it was a good sized tractor and I never had any problems. Keep up the good work, hope you have a great 2022. Lee
Most would say the 2-150 was more of a Lemmon than the 1855.
When you mentioned pressure in the radiator my first thought was a pinhole in the sleeve but after seeing standing coolant on top of the piston makes the cylinder head look suspect for cracks .
Head gasket don't look bad to me as well . On allot of " wet sleeve " type engines if the counter bore leaks it will run out from under the head down the block not effecting the engine other than the outside leak .
Don't know what I would do about the crankshaft . If the engine has allot of hours on it now and it's made it this far might be tempted to polish it up and put it back with the .020 under mains and standard rods assuming you can get the bearings . Never was a big fan of turning a crankshaft down on a turbo charged engine . More than likely at 52:10 on the mains is that happened at the last machine shop it was in , that taper on the last journal was sure funky .
We ran in to some similar problems on an Oliver 1800 last year that came in with a low oil pressure complaint .Crankshaft machine work was all over the place on tolerance and thank God they quit at .040 under bearings and had .035 end play in the block . 😀
I sure like your engine stand , looks like a handy item !
Are most parts available for the 310 ?
You can feel the deformities in the crank journals. It is beyond polishing and a good 310 crank is impossible to find and the last one we were able to get was 800 bucks. And that was 10 or 11 years ago so lord knows what a good one will run now. If you want a 310 to hold up and carry good oil pressure you don’t do close enough is good enough because it ain’t. Poor oil pressure is a common problem with them to begin with.
@@Oliver66FarmBoy AMEN and oil pressure was the problem on the Waukesha Diesel engine ! We went around that on buddy Mike's 1800 Oliver with a dry sump system th-cam.com/video/WB17FdgWL4U/w-d-xo.html Extra pump and oil cooler got it back in line . Oil pressure is what keeps the crankshaft in good shape . " Wink "
Sharing when I can brother always.
Loving the titles on these lol
Just got done watching. Good job.👍. For the problems the engine has you might want want to go deep in checking more things out. Like checking out the line bore of the mains. And rods resized and balanced. With the crank getting redone, maybe get it balance? I am a type of person that doing things perfect . Results in the Best work done for the longest lifespan 🙂
I´m gonna love watching this series! Only better spent time, I can think of, than watching you and CAT extraordinaire Squatch restauring old machines on youtube would be to be in the same shop.
Thanks
I agree he needs to teach shop class. I know nothing about engines and the inner workings of motors. I like how he explain s everything to people who may not know. :)
I enjoy tearing down engines. I wish I had more time to do more of it.
Well I hope your head is not cracked buddy I do like your engine stand That's pretty cool your buddy from Nebraska
Thanks
I rebuilt the 1650 gas few years back that was drinking coolant. Ended up being a crack up on the sleeve where the counterbore flange is.
Never know what you’ll find.
It's like engine archaeology lol The only good thing is you know it will be right when you put it back together.
Yep
Nice 👍
Where did you get your engine stand from? That thing is slick
Lol never doubt a Milwaukee impact…. Made me chuckle 🙂 happy new year Ethan!!!!
I can certainly sense and understand your frustration with not finding a clear reason for the head gasket blowing. Personally I would not know where to start which makes this series most interesting to watch.
The challenge keeps it interesting.
Hoping for the best.
Thanks.
I was pretty excited about this project. Now I’m just hoping you don’t find anything worse. I’m sure that engine will be better than new once your done with it though. I have a great amount of respect for you for never doing these things half-assed.
That’s the plan
Thanks for sharing.
I'm sure you could either put larger wheels on the engine stand or weld some 2x2 tube on top of the current wheels.
Bummer on what you've found so far, but hopefully the head is alright Seriously interesting stuff to watch just the same.
Thanks
Looking forward to part 3.
Really great stuff ,have heard injector sleeves crack and can leak coolant 👍👍👍👍
Waukeshas don’t have injector sleeves….
I hope you dont finding anything wrong in the head...that would suck! A little tip for you that someone showed me for getting nuts out of the sockets. Hang on to it tight and let the impact hammer a few times. Comes right out! Lol
You have a sunken liner. They just cut the block square and shim the liners to height. See it all the time in CATS.
These liners don’t get shimmed. The counter bore is cut to depth and that’s what sets sleeve protrusion.
Love these videos!!! Really wished I could help somebody rebuild a motor .
Humm whole lot of very interesting mr bond going on there. Im with you that somebody messed with it that maybe should not have been. You'll get her straighten out. Hopefully with out going full another crank ect on it
Time will tell
I’m guessing it was pushing compression through the sleeve flange on that side. I know it’s away from the water side of the head, but that’s the only thing that makes sense.
We shall find out.
@@Oliver66FarmBoy well, I’m like you. I’d worry about the head enough it wouldn’t let me just drop it back on there. Pretty optimistic that it’s fine though.
I bet adding a oil temp gage and a pyro would go a long ways to help makje these last. Lol silicone for a head gasket. My .02 is 40 under is too much. What's the chance of findiing a crank? I agree with you, get the head checked. Thanks for the video!
You can’t find good 310 cranks.
Speaking of a shop to use have you thought of maybe renting or a short lease on a commercial building if any are local and available? I once rented a "corner" of a local shop for a project and it was a dry warm place to work.
If I had the money to do that I would probably have money to just build a shop.
I bought a1955 with a supposed bad head gasket when I tore it down there was a very small pinhole in the head that ran into water port
Never know what you’re going to find.
Strange the amount of antifreeze in number two. If on compression stroke, that would have stopped things for sure. Or you sure it didn’t get there on the disassembling process. Just really weird. Every Oliver head or head gasket issue I have worked one was 5 or 6. What has been your experience? Can’t wait to learned what happened though. Hopefully, the cheapest would be the liner. Good luck, thanks for the video.
It’s a mystery.
Kind of sucks to have the feeling of not knowing what the problem is. I’m sure you’ll figure it out though!
Just means you have to spend more money.
That's a lot of issues. Gonna take some Macgyvering. Hope it doesn't turn into too big of a fuster cluck
It’s not that bad.
If need any parts I have gotten used parts from Anderson's in bluffton, oh. Great family ran company that scrap out tractors, lots of parts
I have places I use that only specialize in Oliver and white parts.
Good information, I’m currently working on our 1855 engine. It had its original none cooler block that windowed itself in the 80’s, local dealer welded the pieces back in the block. Ran that way for 32 years. Bought a complete 1955 310 just got her all tore down to the machine shop. What overhaul kit are you using?
Arrow
Meant to ask before how is your freind making out with thar 190 xt allis chalmers he got from where your white was setting?
So cool
I really like your engine stand. Purchased or shop built?
We made it.
Always interesting when tearing a engine down and what you night find! Do you know what brand kit your going to go with!?
Arrow
I loved the innovation, ride and fuel economy of the Oliver tractor, but damn that 310 Waukesha. That SOB ruined Oliver’s reputation.
It’s not as bad as the reputation it has. It’s no different than the 560 Farmall transmission issues. The problems were fixed early on but the damage was done.
Is this a Waukesha engine? Were the engines made in house by Oliver in Charles City, or were they delivered as a pre-assembled sub-assembly to Charles City?
Yes this is a 310 Waukesha
How far can turn the pump an run it safely like you do farming, seems like all your diesel a very healthy
Not much over stock.
The coolant in that cylinder is perplexing. I would think if it was getting that much coolant in the cylinder after being shut down that it would be noticeable on start up and the last couple times you started it on camera it sure didn't seem to be burning any coolant. Hope that head is ok.
It doesn’t make a whole lot of sense.
I guess i missed the reason your doing this. Weak or oil consumption? Lots of hours?
Was pushing coolant out of the overflow, so he was somehow getting too much pressure into the coolant system. Hence why there was water in cylinder #2
Where did you learn your mechanic skills? I feel you will have this better than new when you are done.
My dad.
Damn,
Gonna put fresh paint on the motor after ya get everything fixed? Id probably put fresh paint, that way don't have to do it later, but she should definitely run better after it's all done
I’m not paining the tractor so there is no reason to paint the engine.
Is there a head stud kit for this engine or would it be unnecessary?
You can supposedly make some ARP studs work but no there is no off the shelf kit and no it’s not necessary.
Are pistons and liners still easily available for those waukesha engines or you just happen to have
You can get everything new.
I typed too soon you mentioned possible water issue.
Man, hope that head is okay. I've heard that injector sleeves can leak coolant too(Heard about it, dont mean it right).
How many hours are on that tractor? I thought it didn't have that many, but may be remembering wrong.
Injector sleeves are a modern thing. You will never see them on a diesel this old.
are you going to put a new torsional damper on ?
No reason to.
@@Oliver66FarmBoy well age makes the Teflon and silicone deteriorate and so then the damper is not effective anymore, a new one sure smoothed out my 1.5 million mile Caterpillar C 15, at close to 50 years it sure isn't as new as it was
These are just rubber and they don’t make them new anyhow. I have never heard of a single person ever replacing one.
14mm and 9/16 are as close as it gets.
9/16 fits to loose.
You ought to be making your own steel lines it's not hard
You don’t just make injector lines dipshit. It takes special tooling.
It i a onder that it didnt blo a rod through the block/
With the wear that rear main has and a chance it not cleaning up at 30 to save the crankshaft contact Indy cylinder head in Indpls ask about getting the journals built back up and cut back to std
I will never have a crank welded. To many horror stories of them breaking and tearing up blocks.
we have a machine shop dose everything that you said in your last video that hard to find. He is a every picky guy on his machine work. I have toke so may heads to him and some motor blocks from tractors and one pickup motor that he built for me on a Ih 200 pickup that i am restoring right now. But he is 2 to 3 months be hide on work. If a business drops a motor or head off he always make sure they are done first then he goes back to working on drop offs. But we just found out he had coivd and just got out the hospital yesreday and he was in the hospital for 2 weeks. But today i had to take a head off on a 3020 to get it rebuilt and went to a nother machine shop that dose just about the same as but has more workers. The machine shop that i always go to it is just him and one other person. But if you like i can give you his name and number if you wanna some machine work done. He is located in Upper Sandusky Ohio and NO NOT by the lake we are 90 minutes south from the lake erie
I have it all taken care of.
Gotta love shitty engine work. 🙄 I would lean towards the sleeve protrusion. If the deck ain't square n that protrusion is wrong...2+2=4.
Time will tell.