We replace a Fluke 8010A Meter LCD, but after we do so we discovered that the meter was still dead. What could it be? The answer is much simpler than you might imagine!
I have that same model Fluke Multimeter and I had a minor problem that I fixed on it, and it has run fine ever since. I myself do have vintage test equipment I have rebuilt. It's fairly east to get the old stuff working more than the newer sold state stuff of today.
8:00 Noticed that you here ended up mounting the shield under the PCB in a different position than it was in when you took it apart. But maybe this is the right way, and that it was in the wrong slot in the first place? As long as it didn't short out the PCB, it's probably ok.
There is a specific slot for the shield. The meter fell off a shelf and hit the ground breaking the LCD. It's likely the shield popped out of the slot in the fall. It hit pretty hard.
The older Keithley 175 and 197 DMM's also had a spot for a 12 volt Nicad pack (I bought a few used ones, but only found batteries in one) that can be removed and have the meter just run off of AC. Using the power button to turn the unit off would put a higher charging current onto the battery circuit, so, it was never truly "depowered - turned off" unless it was unplugged.
I did some research and found other people saying the same, or that it shouldn't be operated without the batteries because of that. I can't really say as I didn't really use it again until I got the batteries for it.
@@antiqueradioarcheology-wil8878 Well, the Fluke 8010A instructions (P601-1) , for the "Optional battery pack - 801XA-01 battery option" does say " Do Not Operate without the battery pack" so, it may have an elevated bus voltage in order to charge the NiCad's. I'd imagine a battery pack of proper voltage should be easy enough to scrounge up for others with this issue. The Keithley 197 manual just states the battery pack is "optional", as the unit charges the batteries ( at a higher voltage) with the power switch in the OFF position, and bridges the battery connections to the DC 12V bus when the unit is on.
It fell off a shelf breaking the LCD. I don't know if that damaged the batteries, but I hadn't used it in a long time, so the batteries probably failed due to not being charged.
Buona sera
Mi sai dire se funziona sia a110 che a 220V ?
Grazie saluti
Is there a backlit display available?
I have that same model Fluke Multimeter and I had a minor problem that I fixed on it, and it has run fine ever since. I myself do have vintage test equipment I have rebuilt. It's fairly east to get the old stuff working more than the newer sold state stuff of today.
Link to the battery source?
8:00 Noticed that you here ended up mounting the shield under the PCB in a different position than it was in when you took it apart.
But maybe this is the right way, and that it was in the wrong slot in the first place?
As long as it didn't short out the PCB, it's probably ok.
There is a specific slot for the shield. The meter fell off a shelf and hit the ground breaking the LCD. It's likely the shield popped out of the slot in the fall. It hit pretty hard.
The older Keithley 175 and 197 DMM's also had a spot for a 12 volt Nicad pack (I bought a few used ones, but only found batteries in one) that can be removed and have the meter just run off of AC. Using the power button to turn the unit off would put a higher charging current onto the battery circuit, so, it was never truly "depowered - turned off" unless it was unplugged.
I did some research and found other people saying the same, or that it shouldn't be operated without the batteries because of that. I can't really say as I didn't really use it again until I got the batteries for it.
@@antiqueradioarcheology-wil8878 Well, the Fluke 8010A instructions (P601-1) , for the "Optional battery pack - 801XA-01 battery option" does say " Do Not Operate without the battery pack" so, it may have an elevated bus voltage in order to charge the NiCad's. I'd imagine a battery pack of proper voltage should be easy enough to scrounge up for others with this issue. The Keithley 197 manual just states the battery pack is "optional", as the unit charges the batteries ( at a higher voltage) with the power switch in the OFF position, and bridges the battery connections to the DC 12V bus when the unit is on.
Здравствуйте. Где купить такой дисплей ?
You can find them on Ebay. A friend sent me this one, he had an extra.
@@antiqueradioarcheology-wil8878 Не могу найти. Помогите найти мне пожалуйста.
Was the original LCD actually defective, or was it not working because of the shorted battery, as the new LCD did?
It fell off a shelf breaking the LCD. I don't know if that damaged the batteries, but I hadn't used it in a long time, so the batteries probably failed due to not being charged.