I happened to spot this meter on Amazon and did a search on TH-cam for the model number ... and came upon this review. Thanks so much for taking the time to be so comprehensive in your measurements. The meter looks like a great value.
So I bought my first kaiweets meter for when I don't want to risk losing my one of my fluke meters and the leads were spotty on the ohm readings and delays in reading for continuity. At first thought it was the meter but I popped in some fluke leads and it was responding like a champ. I think I'm gonna buy this meter for some of my Jr techs who are just starting.
I’m missing something here. What about the diode junction test. One thing I love about the fluke is the beep you get for a diode drop, or constant beep for a short. It looks that kwaiweets does not do that.
Yes, you are right. I do like the beep as well, but Kaiweets didn't do that with this meter. They do show the actual voltage break down though. I know that some people complain about the beeps - maybe they work in a cubicle so they don't want to bother others. So, I think it is hard to please everyone, but maybe they could offer a way to turn it on/off. I'll suggest that. BTW, Kaiweets does give 15% off when you use the KA15 discount code.
@@KissAnalog cool thanks. I know my fluke will die like my other ones have. Their parts are as expensive as the meter. I am looking for an alternative that has physical switches. Not a fan of bubble buttons like Kwaiweets other one, which I hear does beep. Simple switch would turn that function off. I know it’s not the tell all but, when speed is the key in my field, sure helps.
It is interesting that most meters do not give the beep as I think a lot of people complain about all the beeps. One of the nicest meters - especially for the cost actually does beep and it is the BM786 from EEVblog: amzn.to/3YTqLsX
Thanks Eddie, I did buy this and got your discount! One thing, I've seen the continuity timing done by several people. I've used continuity to check things like terminal strips where I was looking to find a lead termination and I do run it past each pin pretty fast so I would think knowing the response time might have some value.
Remind me, what does the D in LED stand for? Multimeter designers really ought to add a simple boost converter to allow reading all types of diode except maybe really high voltage zeners.
LOL Yes an LED is a type of Diode, but Diode checkers are really there for the most common troubleshooting which is PN junctions of diodes and BJT transistors. I don't know if I've ever found a dead LED actually. I'm sure it happens, but diodes and BJTs fail often as they usually handle more current and are more prone to fail. LEDs almost always have a resistor in series to limit the current, so they have some protection and usually only handle small current. But I agree with you - it would be nice to have a boosted voltage for the Diode/LED checker:) Zener diodes can often be proven to work if they have a normal diode drop in the opposite direction.
@@KissAnalog I've often found it useful to be able to probe the polarity of LEDs during assembly work, particularly very small surface mount devices: it can be difficult to impossible to read the marking especially when already placed.
Thanks! I did look into it but it is expensive for me to buy and review and Hantek isn't willing to loan one for a review. Maybe I need to grow the channel a bit more to get their attention;) Need more subs;)
It's really nice for the price. I'd like to have something like this for calibrations and testing when high accuracy is needed. In my opinion Kaiweets makes the best budget meter.
Picked one of these up today. Was looking for a meter that had temperature reading for a 3d printer hot end thats acting up. I also need a meter and thought if i could get a meter that did both i would be good. After going down the rabbit hole i though that i was gonna be spending a lot. I decided this guy checks most the boxes for what im doing, and for 30 bucks id argue im way ahead. I still need to get a good meter but have a way better idea what ill be looking for now. Appreciate the video it has given me some confidence with it.
Hi Eddie, I'm curios about the difference between the Habotest and Kaiweets brands, are they from the same manufacturer and are they of the same quality?
Great question!! I think they have to be - but I don't know who the manufacturer is. Kaiweets seems to have the biggest line between the two, so I'd think they have a close relationship with the manufacturer, but they also must make the Habotest.
@Kiss, Appreciate your work and videos. Probes on my older meter broke and am about to purchase a new dmm. What model(s) do you recommend at the household/hobby level and what concerns are relevant to safety? Usage is primarily around electronics such as; computers, hubs, power banks, flashlights, chargers and mobile phones. Also, minor work around appliances, outlets and vehicles. Aside from the common test varables the following are important: temperature, autoranging, hold, NCV and readability. What safety concerns should be considered and what fuses ratings are appropriate? From $40-$75 seems about the right pricing. Thus far, Klein MM600 and Uni-T models seem reasonable choices. Extech, Bryman, Southwick and others have models in this range too. Kaiweets has a 20,000 count model which could be in the mix but the fuses seem underrated. Are my concerns warrented? What model(s) do you recommend at the level noted and what safety factors and ratings should be considered. Thanks again.
15:30 I swear you're saying MILF resistors, not sure I could resist a milf 😁, but anyway I've just bought the HT118A I was just after a really practical multimeter I could do for guitar work that had capacitive measurement. Most of the things I'll be doing with it will be resistivity, capacitance and a bit of 240v stuff around the house. I know the movie is about the HT118E but for some reason this came up in the search for the HT118A. Glad I found you, excellent presentation and massive respect out to all you guys who mess with the real stuff! Stay with what you trust. Cheers.
Hello, thank you so much for sharing with us. i have a question Sir? is it possible or a way to cover up and protect the inside if a battery happened to leak? at the beginning you mentioned that you can see the board from where you place the battery? Thanks.
Hi, you could always just use some hot glue or better still some silicone sealant to seal up the gap at the base of the plastic battery cover through which you can see the PCB. Just don't get any on the springs and contact terminals on the inside. I hope this idea may help. Also, always try to use good quality branded batteries, which I've always found are sealed better and seldom leak.
the kaiweets km601s has a problem where if the usb cable is left attached its connected to ground and if touches you when you're measuring something HV it'll get ya.
@@KissAnalog oh wow that was a quick reply, I only know this because of a video. th-cam.com/video/sn5IKwqR2_M/w-d-xo.html right around the 5:30 mark. Cheers
I think the idear of the firestick thing is to see how fast it responds. That way, you could hold one probe to, say, ground, and very lightly pull the other leads along a chip looking for it's ground or a short. Some meters like the 121GW are slow as sin, to be almost useless in continuity. So, yea, I think the firestick test has some value.
Thanks but I disagree. It is a bad practice to drag a probe tip across a chips leads. This doesn’t fly in any good lab. I don’t support bad practices. If I ask a tech to check a chip for a shorted pin - that person better take purposeful continuity measurements. That means taking half a second for a reading - or a full second if that is what it takes. Do you wasn’t to fly in a plane that a tech practices the fire stick method?
@@KissAnalog Works for me with a fast meter. One does have to be careful not to create "tin whiskers" when dragging. It can have the bonus effect of finding a badly solders lead - lol. It's nice for connectors too. I dunno, we have our own ways. You do need a good and fast beeper, and preferably gold plated probes tip. It does not help if half the problem is the tin plated probe points. Also to your point of various meters not remembering the mode they were in, that is my only gripe for my favorite newer DVM, the BM786. To go from resistance to DIODE, check you have to click to capacitance then hit the secondary function to do diode mode. Then you have to click back to go to resistance, then if you want diode mode again, click again, and it is in capacitance mode. I don't know about you, but I do not rely on a handheld DVM for capacitance. To me, that should have been the secondary function of that meter.
@@Daveyk021 I agree with you! I think capacitance should be the secondary function. I do like the memory thing but if the functions set for primary make sense - then it is not really missed.
Great question, and I would think it would be. Here's the Amazon link where it is on sale: amzn.to/47uLR53 Or you can use my Kaiweets link where they give you a 15% discount using my discount code: KA15
Thanks for asking. If I understand what you are asking it is the bars at the bottom of the screen...? With analog meters, the needle bounced around showing transients and now we have the bar graph that is supposed to show this, but many are so slow that they are not any better than just watching the digits bounce around. Some bar graphs are faster - maybe 10x faster than the digits update rate.
Fluke is the one to use when there is a room full of engineers watching an important power distribution monitoring situation and when money is of no concern. 😳 Kaiweets and the like is for practical hobby budget projects with very good accuracy is my preference. Plus hobby Bluetooth is so cool. 😎 Thanks for the info.
Thanks for your great feedback! I think you are right - if you are a big company where the price of multimeters doesn’t matter - then you can help a certain company stay in business;)
I tested it, it could not measure the 20 pf capacitor, 100 pf seems to be his resolution,for diodes it is good ~ 3V, better than some more expensive , rest is ok,It is excellent for hobbyists,nice for the price.
Hey Eddie, Great help with your video, and learned a lot. Just ordered the Kaiweets HT119E as a beginner, I have a question. You mentioned the “leads” are somewhat stiff and “not silicon”. So the question is should one replace them, and if so, do you have a recommendation? Just so you know, I don't use a multimeter much, so it's possible that your response may be the ones that come with it are fine. I would guess the primary use would be for measuring DC voltage of e-bike batteries.
Thanks for the question. Using my links in my videos helps support this channel and I really appreciate it. The leads are fine but if you want something more flexible, here is a link that supports this channel: amzn.to/3yKAdq9
@@KissAnalog Precisely what I was thinking about the flexibility. Interestingly, I was browsing through the leads and had saved those precise leads. I did click the link when I ordered. Many thanks.
Great review, I always thought the Fluke 87 was overpriced. I have numerous meters, the one I use the most is the Fluke 115 and all of my meters are 6000 count however after this review I'm interested in the 20000 count kaiweets. Thanks again.
Hey I just just found your channel, I was about to buy a fluke 87v max (my old 87v was stolen) I was willing to spend the money but wanted some nice leads and a magnet. Started looking for deals after watching some of your videos. I'm questing why I belive there the best. I still want quality safety and not feel Iike I settled for a cheep knock-off. What would you buy? If it's the Brymen who would you order from? ITM maybe 🤔
Thanks for asking. I'm sorry to just get this comment out. I go thru subs first then start working my way through comments:) My favorite meter right now is the Hioki and it is a nicer meter to hold than the 87 and has far more functions. amzn.to/3HonQSc
Holy be-jeepers batman. Since your video came out that meter has risen from about $45 to $67! Good thing I acted quickly and used the 10% off code and got it for ~$41. I wonder how high it will go?
I cracked up when you called the gimmick to evaluate the speed of continuity test feature as "firestick thing" lol. I also think it's stupid and don't understand why reviewers do that. Anyway, another great review Eddie, just subbed to your channel👍.
Great video and comparison of multimeters! I bought myself a Kaiweets HT118E. But I really want the same probes into which other probes are inserted, as in your video. I change probes and tweezers for checking the SMD often, and I lose a lot of time on this. Please tell me where you bought these probes?
Dear Sir I want to know one thing. I wanted to buy the Kaiweets multimeter but this one is 200mA while the other one is 600mA now my question is because the Kaiweets multimeter is 200mA will there be any problem in working??
Thanks for the great question! It might be that the 200mA went with the 20k count - regarding range settings. This would provide a very high resolution in the measurement. The 600 mA is probably due to the 6k count multimeter (the other options would be 6mA or 6A). So the resolution for say 200mA in a 6k count meter will not be near as good. But the 600mA readings for a 20k count meter in the 10A output still has great resolution. Does that make sense?
Nice review, thank you. My dilemma is I calibrate fluke 77’s and 87’s (really test, never had to actually calibrate) using fluke 5500 or 5522. I want an 87-5 but can’t justify the cost for my usage. Is kaiweets 20k unsafe for household electricity? I would use mostly on automotive with some minimal household applications
Yes I think the Kaiweets is a great buy. Using multimeter for household electricity is considered CAT II, so pretty much any meter should be rated for this. BTW, you can use KA15 to get a 15% discount on top of any sale price at the Kaiweets website. Here's a video that I did about the CE safety mark. th-cam.com/video/h6eebkRj7YI/w-d-xo.html
Most guys I worked with had A.W. Sperry or Amprobe meters. A few had some generic thing from a flea market. I used a Fieldpiece clamp meter and a Knight DMM. I worked in commercial HVAC at universities and health clinics in Oklahoma and I never had any of my meters get hit by something that killed it. A lot of folks don't understand what these things go thru outside a workshop. Heck... Even in a clean mechanical room, they get a beating.
Great test but You could check also bar-graph for speed of reaction. This is the answer if the bar-graph is faster than lcd-result, so its usability is real. You can have more frequent tool reading, for variable switching voltage and not miss the values. I bet Fluke is good here and the others are not, if the speed of bar-graph is the same as lcd-speed..
I bought this model from Amazon yesterday (12/8/22). I also got a $9.00 off coupon through Amazon. It's specs seem very good for use as a bench meter on an audio lab bench. I'm putting one together and am trying to do it as reasonably priced as possible and still have good, reliable test equipment. All in all, this meter cost me less than $39.00 and that was just too good of a deal to pass up. I also got the 10,000 count meter for less than $20.00 on black Friday from Amazon. I'm pretty pleased. I would have gone through your link, but it wasn't up yet :). LOL
I own a fluke 289 and have not really used it much. However I went to use it and in VDC it fluctuates as much as .300ma. Zero out leads. Replaced batteries. Reset it to factory. Removed leads yet still does this while sitting there 🤷♂️
@@KissAnalog it does yes, i found that it goes to 0.0000 as its base so when i only need it to .100v its fairly stable i use it for parasitic draws in automotive and such which does very well at.
HI. You are the BEST. I made it 1/2 way through your review, bingo, mA resolution. Thank you for all the work. I went to your link and bought one. Hey could you review a pinball machine, I want one, but need to pick a good one. God Bless.
Well the "Firestick test" can have some merrits to it, I can think of 2 uses for a quick latching continuity beep. 1. When trying to find a trace on a multi layer board, and you try to find vias etc that belongs to a trace, and you have lots of points to test for continuity, a slow beeping MM can be a drag. Much better that it beeps quickly. 2. If you suspect intermitent connections in a connector, switch or something, a continuity test that reacts quickly will reveale that. Hooking one lead to each end of the cabels, and then wiggle cabels and connector might reveale where the problem is.
Thank you! Great exa, but both examples prove good connections and fast response is good, but that takes a second or half a second. The fire stick is ridiculously fast and uncertain of what is happening. If you have an intermittent open or short the best way to find it is to connect alligator clips or equivalent then move the leads. If it is too intermittent it is just too inconclusive except to say there’s a potential issue. The fire stick displays nothing conclusive. It is a ridiculous display of testing. Do you 2ant to fly on a plane tested w it’s a fire stick methods?
Pop some fluke leads into the meter and I'm sure it responds faster if it's anything like the one I bought. Mine was delayed and I was going to send it back immediately out of frustration and I threw on my fluke 789 leads to it and it worked just fine
Thanks for the suggestion. I might just to that. BTW, I did compare this Astroai WH multimeter in another video: th-cam.com/video/oEAeN5tBUWw/w-d-xo.html
Very good video and comparison.The meters are good value for the price,especially for home use. But input protection is not very robust. I do a lot of maintenance work on different equipment, hvac and other industrial equipment. In the beginning I tried to use an inexpensive mastech meter, but after two weeks something happened and the meter is displaying 60v in any range of the voltmeter. Since then I use certified cat meters from testo, I like the 760-2. Benning also makes good meters and voltage duspol testers. Peaktech is another brand that I like and use. I think safety is important. Even if the meter is accurate I like to be robust on the inputs. Uni-t has some good meters I prefer in the budget range.
Great feedback - thank you! Yes meters certified for CAT ratings are more appropriate for HVAC work. I do like the testo 760-2 for sure. Here's a link where it is on a nice sale: amzn.to/3QHhsKw
@@KissAnalog this seems not to be an exact copy of a uni-t type but it has a lot of functions like the ut71E but in a different housing and seems to have better input protection. Voltcraft is a very common brand here in Europe (Netherlands in my case). A lot of voltcraft meters are related to uni-t.
I think I did see a voltage reference. Did you not see one? I'll have to look again. At this cost it isn't an 'instrument' quality meter - but then that would cost easily 20x more.
Referencing the conversation involving safety and the lack of UL or ETL listing, I think it would be interesting to back up your faith in this company with a teardown. I see there was not much protection inside. Not the place to cut costs from my standpoint.
Great point! Safety is always key. Much of that protection that you see in the meter is to protect it while working in a CAT III and especially in a CAT IV environment where spikes and such are more possible to occur. A meter that is not safety certified should not be used in these locations. On the bench there is little concern regarding this protection - IMHO. Thoughts?
@@KissAnalog Should be fairly common sense. If your life depends on it and you use it very often, then just invest in a certified name brand device. For most hobbyists this meter will be plenty enough. I usually don't get beyond 24V and often use this for audio measurements when my scope or computer is too far away/cumbersome.
@@KissAnalog Unfortunately there are some far-eastern manufacturers that make counterfeit and lookalike copies of all sorts of test gear including multimeters. They will also forge test certificates and documents - I know because I've been asked "What do you want the certificate to say?". Regrettably by the time you find out the protection isn't up to the job, it's too late and either the meter has been destroyed and you've been burned or injured too. Don't get hung-up on specs, bells and whistles. Proper safety and components and buying a reputable brand is essential to protect the user. You can always buy a new meter, but not a hand or face.
Thank you! That's a great question! I like the amprobe AM570, and the testo 760-2: amzn.to/3VrgMbf, but the Brymen meters seem pretty full featured. I like this Bryman (I have a Greenlee which is very close). It is a high count meter, has dB function, 2 temp probes, and much more for a great price. ebay.us/75L0xm I'll do a video on this subject where I can really compare;) BTW, what price range would you feel that a midrange meter falls into?
With all respect I have to disagree that "firestick" method is ridiculous. I very often trace where some pin leads to. Imagine some QFP128 I have to reliably and quickly go through all those pins to check which pin is connected to some other part. I simply drag probes across all those pins/leads of QFP. The fast continuity test is necessary for this. And the "firestick" method reliably detects fast or slow meters. Try to use some slow or below average meter and reliably touch pin by pin of that QFP package. This is ridiculous. After that you will gain different view on "firestick" method ;)
Thanks for making this point. I think measurements should be taken precisely and purposefully. I am working with a new 100 pin QFP now - and I would never drag my tip across it. If is caught another engineer or tech doing this - I'd get on my soap box and educate that person. I work in the defense industry - but in the automotive and medical industries - they take this very seriously. Dragging tips across leads that might scratch leaving FOD (Foreign Object Debris) between tight pitch pins is not a good idea. Also - can you be sure that your meter was fire stick fast and caught it? When troubleshooting - you don't have to do the shotgun method - you can think about which pins might need to be probed - and probe them. OK, I'll get off my soap box;)
@@KissAnalog I'm not working in defense nor automotive nor medical industry. Maybe that is the difference :) When I'm trying to fix unknown device and I'm trying to figure out where does some track lead to (without spending an hour), I do not see any other way but drag across arrays of pins. It may be QFP100, or 10 pieces of SO-14. It's fast and reliable, that's my experience. And I have never seen any debris. But as I said, I do not work on super precision boards. When some meter passes that "firestick" method, it is fast and sensitive. It is not necessary to drag probe hard. If meter is fast and sensitive, it's enough to drag with light hand. OK. What method would you recommend instead of dragging? You have say 10 pieces of SO-14 and many other parts and you need to figure out where are some pins going to, and you do not see all signal traces. And you need to do it reasonably quickly.
Thanks for asking! I'd look up the data sheet. Then look for power pins and be sure none of those are shorted to ground. If it is dead - that is probably where the problem is. If you look at the voltage on these pins - and it is there - that is a great sign. If it is not - and they are not shorted - then check the voltage regulator feeding them. Is there voltage at the input of the regulator - how about the output? There is always a chance of damaging pins. Usually there is specific pins that will die - power pins are a great place to start. If it is CAN or I2C that is not talking - then look at the signals there with a scope probe. Check the OSC pin to be sure there is waveform there.
@@KissAnalog I'm not talking about shorted power supply. I'm talking about finding where does some signal line goes to. And there are say 10 SO-14 parts. Locating shorted power supply is easy compared to that.
Yes - I think I understand. I go to the chips that recieve/send the signal to the processor and see if it is getting what it needs. I don't understand what the fire stick (sliding down the leads) does for you??
Alcohol makes garbage leads way better. I tested it on a bunch of different ones a while back. Even the 1 dollar Chinese ones I have for when I sell a piece of audio (guitar or bass) gear the person installing the pickups or what not never have a meter then the help I tell them to search for on Google usually makes up for their ineptitude for not knowing how to mod their instruments.
Comparing a Kaiweets to a Fluke 87V is ridiculous. They are not in the same league by any stretch of the imagination. It's a complete disservice to your viewers. The input protection is a joke. Physically the input jacks on the Kaiweet are as cheap as it is possible to make. Compare it to other meters in its price range. If you want a fair comparison it would be the Fluke against the Brymen 869.
The Fluke 87V against the Brymen 869s also isn't a fair comparison 😉 Higher resolution, higher accuracy, way more features, cheaper (where I live at least), higher cat rating, all lids/crevases sealed with o rings... The BM869s is I think best comparable to the old Fluke 189 (not available anymore). But you're right that both Fluke and Brymen make robust, safe, high quality meters and kaiweets make multimeters that are foremost cheap and it shows in construction and used components. A comparison with an 87V indeed has little value as a review because no one that thinks about buying the Kaiweets is also contemplating the 87V. A comparison with the 20k Aneng multimeter would be more interesting and realistic.
I do not think his point is that these meters are produced using the same caliber of components. When I was considering buying a meter for around the house, and bench work for microcontrollers, SBCs, and other "safe" readings I assumed I would be saving up for a long time if I wanted reliable measurements. Then Eddie blew that BS out the window. My guess is a lot of beginners setting up a diy bench think they need a Fluke. They do not. He has also compared Fluke to other higher end meters that are still more affordable and feature rich. Of course if someone loves Fluke meters for their use case that is cool too.
Thanks John for bringing this up. Of course they are not in the same league. The only thing Fluke has on its side is safety in CAT III and CAT V work environments where you need the protection. And of course the Fluke costs 10 times more. But look how well the Kaiweets stacked up in measurements! Other than safety in those work class environments that most of us never work in - the 87 is obviously well over priced as a bench meter, and Kaiweets kicks it’s but for value. IMHO Oh, and if somehow you damage the terminals of the Kaiweets - just throw it away and buy a new one. Maybe they’ll have a 40k count out by then. We know Fluke won’t have anything new out;) I use the 87 to compare measurements to because it’s something that a lot of people know so it has a certain expected standard that I can show how well the Kaiweets 20k count compares to. I did show the older version of the Kaiweets and the Klein as well to show what 6k counts looks like. Also there are very few high count meters out at the price of the Kaiweets. So I’ll just keep embarrassing Fluke;)
@Kiss Analog the disagreements are at alert status red haha. I kid. This is healthy discourse and things that should be brought up by both sides. He makes good points but I fear some may have missed the point you were getting across. I got trolled for agreeing but healthy discourse is good when all party's involved exchange ideas and everyone involved gains insight like in this thread.
@@mrpetit2 But because the comparison was made against the Fluke the Kaiweets buyers are going to be thinking it is a comparable meter. The point Kiss made about it being just for bench work is going to be lost in the noise. I'm just tired of the constant Fluke bashing. I own both Fluke and Brymen and worked as an Industrial Electrician where safety is not something you take for granted.
@@KissAnalog I bought one then returned it cuz it wouldn't read the voltage it read everything else. I then returned it and bought another one that one didn't read the house 110 receptacle voltage and I returned it. I really liked everything about it. I wish it would have worked.
I happened to spot this meter on Amazon and did a search on TH-cam for the model number ... and came upon this review. Thanks so much for taking the time to be so comprehensive in your measurements. The meter looks like a great value.
So I bought my first kaiweets meter for when I don't want to risk losing my one of my fluke meters and the leads were spotty on the ohm readings and delays in reading for continuity. At first thought it was the meter but I popped in some fluke leads and it was responding like a champ. I think I'm gonna buy this meter for some of my Jr techs who are just starting.
Thanks for your feedback! Try cleaning the ends with some rubbing alcohol
Thanks!
Wow - thank you for your generosity - much appreciated!
Hi Eddie, I really appreciate the time and the great information you give on your videos. Thank you. 🙏
Thank you!
I’m missing something here. What about the diode junction test. One thing I love about the fluke is the beep you get for a diode drop, or constant beep for a short. It looks that kwaiweets does not do that.
Yes, you are right. I do like the beep as well, but Kaiweets didn't do that with this meter. They do show the actual voltage break down though. I know that some people complain about the beeps - maybe they work in a cubicle so they don't want to bother others. So, I think it is hard to please everyone, but maybe they could offer a way to turn it on/off. I'll suggest that. BTW, Kaiweets does give 15% off when you use the KA15 discount code.
@@KissAnalog cool thanks. I know my fluke will die like my other ones have. Their parts are as expensive as the meter. I am looking for an alternative that has physical switches. Not a fan of bubble buttons like Kwaiweets other one, which I hear does beep. Simple switch would turn that function off. I know it’s not the tell all but, when speed is the key in my field, sure helps.
It is interesting that most meters do not give the beep as I think a lot of people complain about all the beeps. One of the nicest meters - especially for the cost actually does beep and it is the BM786 from EEVblog: amzn.to/3YTqLsX
Thanks Eddie,
I did buy this and got your discount!
One thing, I've seen the continuity timing done by several people. I've used continuity to check things like terminal strips where I was looking to find a lead termination and I do run it past each pin pretty fast so I would think knowing the response time might have some value.
That’s awesome! Thank you!
I just wanted to confirm the same - quick response and quick back to quiet is good for checking many pins in a row.
Remind me, what does the D in LED stand for? Multimeter designers really ought to add a simple boost converter to allow reading all types of diode except maybe really high voltage zeners.
LOL Yes an LED is a type of Diode, but Diode checkers are really there for the most common troubleshooting which is PN junctions of diodes and BJT transistors. I don't know if I've ever found a dead LED actually. I'm sure it happens, but diodes and BJTs fail often as they usually handle more current and are more prone to fail. LEDs almost always have a resistor in series to limit the current, so they have some protection and usually only handle small current. But I agree with you - it would be nice to have a boosted voltage for the Diode/LED checker:) Zener diodes can often be proven to work if they have a normal diode drop in the opposite direction.
@@KissAnalog I've often found it useful to be able to probe the polarity of LEDs during assembly work, particularly very small surface mount devices: it can be difficult to impossible to read the marking especially when already placed.
Hi Eddie, thanks for the review, have you seen the new hantek touch screen oscilloscope to 1000 series??? Hard to find a review on these.
Thanks! I did look into it but it is expensive for me to buy and review and Hantek isn't willing to loan one for a review. Maybe I need to grow the channel a bit more to get their attention;) Need more subs;)
@@KissAnalog Thanks for the consideration Eddie
It's really nice for the price. I'd like to have something like this for calibrations and testing when high accuracy is needed. In my opinion Kaiweets makes the best budget meter.
I'd have to agree with you;)
Aren't Bryman best budget ? (beginner)
Picked one of these up today. Was looking for a meter that had temperature reading for a 3d printer hot end thats acting up. I also need a meter and thought if i could get a meter that did both i would be good. After going down the rabbit hole i though that i was gonna be spending a lot. I decided this guy checks most the boxes for what im doing, and for 30 bucks id argue im way ahead. I still need to get a good meter but have a way better idea what ill be looking for now. Appreciate the video it has given me some confidence with it.
Great meter;) I have reviewed a number of other higher cost - but still affordable high-end meters;)
Hi Eddie, I'm curios about the difference between the Habotest and Kaiweets brands, are they from the same manufacturer and are they of the same quality?
Great question!! I think they have to be - but I don't know who the manufacturer is. Kaiweets seems to have the biggest line between the two, so I'd think they have a close relationship with the manufacturer, but they also must make the Habotest.
I ended up buying this meter thanks to your video. Great purchase, but still love my Fluke.
That's great! Thanks for your feedback!
I got one of them. My 40-year-old Fluke 77A finally died.
EEKS! How did that dinosaur die? I think I have my original 77 around somewhere;)
@Kiss,
Appreciate your work and videos.
Probes on my older meter broke and am about to purchase a new dmm. What model(s) do you recommend at the household/hobby level and what concerns are relevant to safety? Usage is primarily around electronics such as; computers, hubs, power banks, flashlights, chargers and mobile phones. Also, minor work around appliances, outlets and vehicles. Aside from the common test varables the following are important: temperature, autoranging, hold, NCV and readability. What safety concerns should be considered and what fuses ratings are appropriate? From $40-$75 seems about the right pricing. Thus far, Klein MM600 and Uni-T models seem reasonable choices. Extech, Bryman, Southwick and others have models in this range too. Kaiweets has a 20,000 count model which could be in the mix but the fuses seem underrated. Are my concerns warrented? What model(s) do you recommend at the level noted and what safety factors and ratings should be considered. Thanks again.
15:30 I swear you're saying MILF resistors, not sure I could resist a milf 😁, but anyway I've just bought the HT118A I was just after a really practical multimeter I could do for guitar work that had capacitive measurement. Most of the things I'll be doing with it will be resistivity, capacitance and a bit of 240v stuff around the house. I know the movie is about the HT118E but for some reason this came up in the search for the HT118A. Glad I found you, excellent presentation and massive respect out to all you guys who mess with the real stuff! Stay with what you trust. Cheers.
LOL. What’s on your mind;) thanks for your great feedback!!
Hello, thank you so much for sharing with us. i have a question Sir? is it possible or a way to cover up and protect the inside if a battery happened to leak? at the beginning you mentioned that you can see the board from where you place the battery? Thanks.
Hi, you could always just use some hot glue or better still some silicone sealant to seal up the gap at the base of the plastic battery cover through which you can see the PCB. Just don't get any on the springs and contact terminals on the inside. I hope this idea may help.
Also, always try to use good quality branded batteries, which I've always found are sealed better and seldom leak.
Great Question - @masoodturan7489 provided a great answer;)
the kaiweets km601s has a problem where if the usb cable is left attached its connected to ground and if touches you when you're measuring something HV it'll get ya.
Thanks for this info! I'll do a quick video to let people know.
@@KissAnalog oh wow that was a quick reply, I only know this because of a video. th-cam.com/video/sn5IKwqR2_M/w-d-xo.html
right around the 5:30 mark. Cheers
I think the idear of the firestick thing is to see how fast it responds. That way, you could hold one probe to, say, ground, and very lightly pull the other leads along a chip looking for it's ground or a short. Some meters like the 121GW are slow as sin, to be almost useless in continuity. So, yea, I think the firestick test has some value.
Thanks but I disagree. It is a bad practice to drag a probe tip across a chips leads. This doesn’t fly in any good lab. I don’t support bad practices. If I ask a tech to check a chip for a shorted pin - that person better take purposeful continuity measurements. That means taking half a second for a reading - or a full second if that is what it takes. Do you wasn’t to fly in a plane that a tech practices the fire stick method?
@@KissAnalog Works for me with a fast meter. One does have to be careful not to create "tin whiskers" when dragging. It can have the bonus effect of finding a badly solders lead - lol. It's nice for connectors too. I dunno, we have our own ways. You do need a good and fast beeper, and preferably gold plated probes tip. It does not help if half the problem is the tin plated probe points.
Also to your point of various meters not remembering the mode they were in, that is my only gripe for my favorite newer DVM, the BM786. To go from resistance to DIODE, check you have to click to capacitance then hit the secondary function to do diode mode. Then you have to click back to go to resistance, then if you want diode mode again, click again, and it is in capacitance mode. I don't know about you, but I do not rely on a handheld DVM for capacitance. To me, that should have been the secondary function of that meter.
@@Daveyk021 I agree with you! I think capacitance should be the secondary function. I do like the memory thing but if the functions set for primary make sense - then it is not really missed.
I also see a Habotest HT118E listed on AliExpress. I wonder if it is the same unit or not... 73 DE W8LV BILL
Great question, and I would think it would be. Here's the Amazon link where it is on sale: amzn.to/47uLR53
Or you can use my Kaiweets link where they give you a 15% discount using my discount code: KA15
Makes me feel good buying a H118E. Thanks !
It’s a great low cost meter;) use KA15 for a 15% discount if you decide to buy:)
What do bars do?
Thanks for asking. If I understand what you are asking it is the bars at the bottom of the screen...? With analog meters, the needle bounced around showing transients and now we have the bar graph that is supposed to show this, but many are so slow that they are not any better than just watching the digits bounce around. Some bar graphs are faster - maybe 10x faster than the digits update rate.
Fluke is the one to use when there is a room full of engineers watching an important power distribution monitoring situation and when money is of no concern. 😳
Kaiweets and the like is for practical hobby budget projects with very good accuracy is my preference. Plus hobby Bluetooth is so cool. 😎 Thanks for the info.
Thanks for your great feedback! I think you are right - if you are a big company where the price of multimeters doesn’t matter - then you can help a certain company stay in business;)
@@KissAnalog thanks.
I tested it, it could not measure the 20 pf capacitor, 100 pf seems to be his resolution,for diodes it is good ~ 3V, better than some more expensive , rest is ok,It is excellent for hobbyists,nice for the price.
Eddie, where to find a hang up strap for this?
Check out these options for as low as $10 th-cam.com/video/WPn-14ef5jM/w-d-xo.html
Hey Eddie,
Great help with your video, and learned a lot.
Just ordered the Kaiweets HT119E as a beginner, I have a question.
You mentioned the “leads” are somewhat stiff and “not silicon”. So the question is should one replace them, and if so, do you have a recommendation?
Just so you know, I don't use a multimeter much, so it's possible that your response may be the ones that come with it are fine. I would guess the primary use would be for measuring DC voltage of e-bike batteries.
Thanks for the question. Using my links in my videos helps support this channel and I really appreciate it. The leads are fine but if you want something more flexible, here is a link that supports this channel: amzn.to/3yKAdq9
@@KissAnalog Precisely what I was thinking about the flexibility. Interestingly, I was browsing through the leads and had saved those precise leads. I did click the link when I ordered. Many thanks.
Great review, I always thought the Fluke 87 was overpriced. I have numerous meters, the one I use the most is the Fluke 115 and all of my meters are 6000 count however after this review I'm interested in the 20000 count kaiweets. Thanks again.
You bet! Thanks for your feedback!
Hey I just just found your channel, I was about to buy a fluke 87v max (my old 87v was stolen) I was willing to spend the money but wanted some nice leads and a magnet. Started looking for deals after watching some of your videos. I'm questing why I belive there the best. I still want quality safety and not feel Iike I settled for a cheep knock-off. What would you buy? If it's the Brymen who would you order from? ITM maybe 🤔
Thanks for asking. I'm sorry to just get this comment out. I go thru subs first then start working my way through comments:) My favorite meter right now is the Hioki and it is a nicer meter to hold than the 87 and has far more functions. amzn.to/3HonQSc
Holy be-jeepers batman. Since your video came out that meter has risen from about $45 to $67! Good thing I acted quickly and used the 10% off code and got it for ~$41. I wonder how high it will go?
Thank you! The price does vary with stock I think. The current price is $48 amzn.to/3QWcWWM
I just picked up a couple for $31.39 each (before tax) with $7.00 coupon and lightning deal.
I cracked up when you called the gimmick to evaluate the speed of continuity test feature as "firestick thing" lol. I also think it's stupid and don't understand why reviewers do that.
Anyway, another great review Eddie, just subbed to your channel👍.
Thanks so much! Great to have you aboard;)
What is the stupid firestick thing? Could not quickly find anything due to Amazon Fire Stick. Just curious and Thanks. Great video so far.
THERE ARE SO MANY GOOD REASONBLY PRICED MULTIMETERS OUT THERE ITS HARD TO DECIDE WHICH ONE TO BUY.I HAVE THE ANENG 870 AND THE OWON 71T.
Thanks David! I hope these reviews help;)
Are those Polk speakers?
No, but good eye - it does look like a Polk but is a center channel by Paradygm
Great video and comparison of multimeters! I bought myself a Kaiweets HT118E. But I really want the same probes into which other probes are inserted, as in your video. I change probes and tweezers for checking the SMD often, and I lose a lot of time on this. Please tell me where you bought these probes?
Thanks so much for asking. I'll do a video very soon showing the best probes for the money - and maybe the best probes - period;)
@@KissAnalogGreat! I'm looking forward to the new video)
Dear Sir I want to know one thing.
I wanted to buy the Kaiweets multimeter but this one is 200mA while the other one is 600mA now my question is because the Kaiweets multimeter is 200mA will there be any problem in working??
Thanks for the great question! It might be that the 200mA went with the 20k count - regarding range settings. This would provide a very high resolution in the measurement. The 600 mA is probably due to the 6k count multimeter (the other options would be 6mA or 6A). So the resolution for say 200mA in a 6k count meter will not be near as good. But the 600mA readings for a 20k count meter in the 10A output still has great resolution. Does that make sense?
Hello, does the backlight turn itself off after some time?
Nice review, thank you. My dilemma is I calibrate fluke 77’s and 87’s (really test, never had to actually calibrate) using fluke 5500 or 5522. I want an 87-5 but can’t justify the cost for my usage. Is kaiweets 20k unsafe for household electricity? I would use mostly on automotive with some minimal household applications
Yes I think the Kaiweets is a great buy. Using multimeter for household electricity is considered CAT II, so pretty much any meter should be rated for this. BTW, you can use KA15 to get a 15% discount on top of any sale price at the Kaiweets website. Here's a video that I did about the CE safety mark. th-cam.com/video/h6eebkRj7YI/w-d-xo.html
Mine is on the way.
Sweet! I hope you let us know what you think:)
@@KissAnalog A little late, but it's been a great meter.
Most guys I worked with had A.W. Sperry or Amprobe meters. A few had some generic thing from a flea market.
I used a Fieldpiece clamp meter and a Knight DMM. I worked in commercial HVAC at universities and health clinics in Oklahoma and I never had any of my meters get hit by something that killed it.
A lot of folks don't understand what these things go thru outside a workshop. Heck... Even in a clean mechanical room, they get a beating.
Thanks for the great feedback! Those are all good meters! I've had an Amprobe for many years and still looks great!
Great test but You could check also bar-graph for speed of reaction. This is the answer if the bar-graph is faster than lcd-result, so its usability is real. You can have more frequent tool reading, for variable switching voltage and not miss the values. I bet Fluke is good here and the others are not, if the speed of bar-graph is the same as lcd-speed..
I bought this model from Amazon yesterday (12/8/22). I also got a $9.00 off coupon through Amazon. It's specs seem very good for use as a bench meter on an audio lab bench. I'm putting one together and am trying to do it as reasonably priced as possible and still have good, reliable test equipment. All in all, this meter cost me less than $39.00 and that was just too good of a deal to pass up. I also got the 10,000 count meter for less than $20.00 on black Friday from Amazon. I'm pretty pleased. I would have gone through your link, but it wasn't up yet :). LOL
Thank you. Get 15% off; use KA15 code at Link to Kaiweets store: kaiweets.com?sca_ref=1269738.glN6S8aePH
I own a fluke 289 and have not really used it much. However I went to use it and in VDC it fluctuates as much as .300ma. Zero out leads. Replaced batteries. Reset it to factory. Removed leads yet still does this while sitting there 🤷♂️
Thanks for this feedback! Does it measure low current accurately?
@@KissAnalog it does yes, i found that it goes to 0.0000 as its base so when i only need it to .100v its fairly stable i use it for parasitic draws in automotive and such which does very well at.
HI. You are the BEST. I made it 1/2 way through your review, bingo, mA resolution. Thank you for all the work. I went to your link and bought one. Hey could you review a pinball machine, I want one, but need to pick a good one. God Bless.
Thanks so much! I appreciate you! I don't know if I can get the pinball machine;) Did you find one?
HI Eddie, thanks for the info. Great video. 👍😁
I appreciate you!
Well the "Firestick test" can have some merrits to it, I can think of 2 uses for a quick latching continuity beep.
1. When trying to find a trace on a multi layer board, and you try to find vias etc that belongs to a trace,
and you have lots of points to test for continuity, a slow beeping MM can be a drag. Much better that it beeps quickly.
2. If you suspect intermitent connections in a connector, switch or something,
a continuity test that reacts quickly will reveale that.
Hooking one lead to each end of the cabels, and then wiggle cabels and connector might reveale where the problem is.
Thank you! Great exa, but both examples prove good connections and fast response is good, but that takes a second or half a second. The fire stick is ridiculously fast and uncertain of what is happening. If you have an intermittent open or short the best way to find it is to connect alligator clips or equivalent then move the leads. If it is too intermittent it is just too inconclusive except to say there’s a potential issue. The fire stick displays nothing conclusive. It is a ridiculous display of testing. Do you 2ant to fly on a plane tested w it’s a fire stick methods?
Pop some fluke leads into the meter and I'm sure it responds faster if it's anything like the one I bought. Mine was delayed and I was going to send it back immediately out of frustration and I threw on my fluke 789 leads to it and it worked just fine
Just got mine and I love it
Thank you for your feedback!!
So is HT118E better than HT118A or not really?
Yes - I think it is;) But they are both very nice;)
Thank you for the review. It would be nice to see a comparison review between the Fluke 87v and the Astroai WH or the the DM 6000 counts.
Thanks for the suggestion. I might just to that. BTW, I did compare this Astroai WH multimeter in another video: th-cam.com/video/oEAeN5tBUWw/w-d-xo.html
@@KissAnalog and Kyoritsu Kew 1012?
Amazon only shows a 10,000 count Kaiweets
Thank you! It looks like it has been updated to show 20,000 counts: amzn.to/3GdXwZ1
that really was a deep dive. very interesting. I learnt new things. thanks
Thanks so much! I appreciate you!
Very good video and comparison.The meters are good value for the price,especially for home use. But input protection is not very robust. I do a lot of maintenance work on different equipment, hvac and other industrial equipment. In the beginning I tried to use an inexpensive mastech meter, but after two weeks something happened and the meter is displaying 60v in any range of the voltmeter. Since then I use certified cat meters from testo, I like the 760-2. Benning also makes good meters and voltage duspol testers. Peaktech is another brand that I like and use. I think safety is important. Even if the meter is accurate I like to be robust on the inputs. Uni-t has some good meters I prefer in the budget range.
Great feedback - thank you! Yes meters certified for CAT ratings are more appropriate for HVAC work. I do like the testo 760-2 for sure. Here's a link where it is on a nice sale: amzn.to/3QHhsKw
Waiting for the Vegas videos to come out!!
Thank you! I just posted it;)
Beautiful compare
Thanks - I am glad you found it helpful!
This new Kaiweets meter looks really interesting and seems like a very decent meter indeed.
Btw, that voltcraft meter is actually a rebranded uni-t.
Very true, I forgot. Notice how they rarely have anyone hawk their stuff? Banggood will but not the company directly.
Thanks! Which Uni-T is it? I really like this Voltcraft. I bought it because I never see them;)
@@KissAnalog I'll find it and get back to ya.
@Kiss Analog you get the package yet? Haha
@@KissAnalog this seems not to be an exact copy of a uni-t type but it has a lot of functions like the ut71E but in a different housing and seems to have better input protection.
Voltcraft is a very common brand here in Europe (Netherlands in my case). A lot of voltcraft meters are related to uni-t.
I missing a voltage reference inside the meter. I guess the 20k counts are not very stable.
I think I did see a voltage reference. Did you not see one? I'll have to look again. At this cost it isn't an 'instrument' quality meter - but then that would cost easily 20x more.
The uei multimeter are made in South Korea
Thanks for the info!
Referencing the conversation involving safety and the lack of UL or ETL listing, I think it would be interesting to back up your faith in this company with a teardown. I see there was not much protection inside. Not the place to cut costs from my standpoint.
Great point! Safety is always key. Much of that protection that you see in the meter is to protect it while working in a CAT III and especially in a CAT IV environment where spikes and such are more possible to occur. A meter that is not safety certified should not be used in these locations. On the bench there is little concern regarding this protection - IMHO. Thoughts?
@@KissAnalog Should be fairly common sense. If your life depends on it and you use it very often, then just invest in a certified name brand device. For most hobbyists this meter will be plenty enough. I usually don't get beyond 24V and often use this for audio measurements when my scope or computer is too far away/cumbersome.
@@KissAnalog Unfortunately there are some far-eastern manufacturers that make counterfeit and lookalike copies of all sorts of test gear including multimeters. They will also forge test certificates and documents - I know because I've been asked "What do you want the certificate to say?".
Regrettably by the time you find out the protection isn't up to the job, it's too late and either the meter has been destroyed and you've been burned or injured too.
Don't get hung-up on specs, bells and whistles. Proper safety and components and buying a reputable brand is essential to protect the user. You can always buy a new meter, but not a hand or face.
Hey dude, I really like your videos. What is your favorite mid-range multimeter? Cheers
Thank you! That's a great question! I like the amprobe AM570, and the testo 760-2: amzn.to/3VrgMbf, but the Brymen meters seem pretty full featured. I like this Bryman (I have a Greenlee which is very close). It is a high count meter, has dB function, 2 temp probes, and much more for a great price. ebay.us/75L0xm
I'll do a video on this subject where I can really compare;)
BTW, what price range would you feel that a midrange meter falls into?
I see. Only available on their website. Too new.
Thank you! Amazon now has stock: amzn.to/3GdXwZ1
With all respect I have to disagree that "firestick" method is ridiculous. I very often trace where some pin leads to. Imagine some QFP128 I have to reliably and quickly go through all those pins to check which pin is connected to some other part. I simply drag probes across all those pins/leads of QFP. The fast continuity test is necessary for this. And the "firestick" method reliably detects fast or slow meters. Try to use some slow or below average meter and reliably touch pin by pin of that QFP package. This is ridiculous. After that you will gain different view on "firestick" method ;)
Thanks for making this point. I think measurements should be taken precisely and purposefully.
I am working with a new 100 pin QFP now - and I would never drag my tip across it. If is caught another engineer or tech doing this - I'd get on my soap box and educate that person.
I work in the defense industry - but in the automotive and medical industries - they take this very seriously. Dragging tips across leads that might scratch leaving FOD (Foreign Object Debris) between tight pitch pins is not a good idea. Also - can you be sure that your meter was fire stick fast and caught it? When troubleshooting - you don't have to do the shotgun method - you can think about which pins might need to be probed - and probe them.
OK, I'll get off my soap box;)
@@KissAnalog I'm not working in defense nor automotive nor medical industry. Maybe that is the difference :)
When I'm trying to fix unknown device and I'm trying to figure out where does some track lead to (without spending an hour), I do not see any other way but drag across arrays of pins. It may be QFP100, or 10 pieces of SO-14. It's fast and reliable, that's my experience. And I have never seen any debris. But as I said, I do not work on super precision boards.
When some meter passes that "firestick" method, it is fast and sensitive. It is not necessary to drag probe hard. If meter is fast and sensitive, it's enough to drag with light hand.
OK. What method would you recommend instead of dragging? You have say 10 pieces of SO-14 and many other parts and you need to figure out where are some pins going to, and you do not see all signal traces. And you need to do it reasonably quickly.
Thanks for asking! I'd look up the data sheet. Then look for power pins and be sure none of those are shorted to ground. If it is dead - that is probably where the problem is. If you look at the voltage on these pins - and it is there - that is a great sign. If it is not - and they are not shorted - then check the voltage regulator feeding them. Is there voltage at the input of the regulator - how about the output?
There is always a chance of damaging pins. Usually there is specific pins that will die - power pins are a great place to start.
If it is CAN or I2C that is not talking - then look at the signals there with a scope probe. Check the OSC pin to be sure there is waveform there.
@@KissAnalog I'm not talking about shorted power supply. I'm talking about finding where does some signal line goes to. And there are say 10 SO-14 parts.
Locating shorted power supply is easy compared to that.
Yes - I think I understand. I go to the chips that recieve/send the signal to the processor and see if it is getting what it needs. I don't understand what the fire stick (sliding down the leads) does for you??
Cool review
Thank you!
Really good info!
Thank you!
Thank you for your time and efforts Sir 🙏👍
Thank you!
I'll go with the cheap meter and if it breaks I'll just buy another.
That’s a great plan. You can buy 2 cheap meters and do more and then still have one if the other breaks.
Extech brand meter
Awesome example of a great low cost meter that is Safety certified: th-cam.com/video/d5F3-EWLI-I/w-d-xo.html
Alcohol makes garbage leads way better. I tested it on a bunch of different ones a while back. Even the 1 dollar Chinese ones I have for when I sell a piece of audio (guitar or bass) gear the person installing the pickups or what not never have a meter then the help I tell them to search for on Google usually makes up for their ineptitude for not knowing how to mod their instruments.
I agree cleaning leads can be huge!
Comparing a Kaiweets to a Fluke 87V is ridiculous. They are not in the same league by any stretch of the imagination. It's a complete disservice to your viewers. The input protection is a joke. Physically the input jacks on the Kaiweet are as cheap as it is possible to make. Compare it to other meters in its price range. If you want a fair comparison it would be the Fluke against the Brymen 869.
The Fluke 87V against the Brymen 869s also isn't a fair comparison 😉
Higher resolution, higher accuracy, way more features, cheaper (where I live at least), higher cat rating, all lids/crevases sealed with o rings...
The BM869s is I think best comparable to the old Fluke 189 (not available anymore).
But you're right that both Fluke and Brymen make robust, safe, high quality meters and kaiweets make multimeters that are foremost cheap and it shows in construction and used components.
A comparison with an 87V indeed has little value as a review because no one that thinks about buying the Kaiweets is also contemplating the 87V. A comparison with the 20k Aneng multimeter would be more interesting and realistic.
I do not think his point is that these meters are produced using the same caliber of components. When I was considering buying a meter for around the house, and bench work for microcontrollers, SBCs, and other "safe" readings I assumed I would be saving up for a long time if I wanted reliable measurements. Then Eddie blew that BS out the window. My guess is a lot of beginners setting up a diy bench think they need a Fluke. They do not. He has also compared Fluke to other higher end meters that are still more affordable and feature rich. Of course if someone loves Fluke meters for their use case that is cool too.
Thanks John for bringing this up. Of course they are not in the same league. The only thing Fluke has on its side is safety in CAT III and CAT V work environments where you need the protection. And of course the Fluke costs 10 times more. But look how well the Kaiweets stacked up in measurements! Other than safety in those work class environments that most of us never work in - the 87 is obviously well over priced as a bench meter, and Kaiweets kicks it’s but for value. IMHO Oh, and if somehow you damage the terminals of the Kaiweets - just throw it away and buy a new one. Maybe they’ll have a 40k count out by then. We know Fluke won’t have anything new out;)
I use the 87 to compare measurements to because it’s something that a lot of people know so it has a certain expected standard that I can show how well the Kaiweets 20k count compares to. I did show the older version of the Kaiweets and the Klein as well to show what 6k counts looks like. Also there are very few high count meters out at the price of the Kaiweets. So I’ll just keep embarrassing Fluke;)
@Kiss Analog the disagreements are at alert status red haha. I kid. This is healthy discourse and things that should be brought up by both sides. He makes good points but I fear some may have missed the point you were getting across. I got trolled for agreeing but healthy discourse is good when all party's involved exchange ideas and everyone involved gains insight like in this thread.
@@mrpetit2 But because the comparison was made against the Fluke the Kaiweets buyers are going to be thinking it is a comparable meter. The point Kiss made about it being just for bench work is going to be lost in the noise. I'm just tired of the constant Fluke bashing. I own both Fluke and Brymen and worked as an Industrial Electrician where safety is not something you take for granted.
Do not buy...returned 2.
Thanks for the feedback! What was wrong with them? Mine is great and my first one (the non E) is still perfect.
@@KissAnalog I bought one then returned it cuz it wouldn't read the voltage it read everything else. I then returned it and bought another one that one didn't read the house 110 receptacle voltage and I returned it. I really liked everything about it. I wish it would have worked.
Wow that is strange. Thank you for your feedback!