I never understood why the scraping of the wax after you put it on 🤔 I've alwase dripped, melted , then take a washcloth & in a circular motion rub in in more and walk away
Why does everybody remove the wax again after coating the ski in it? That doesn't seem too smart. Either the wax has a lower coefficient of friction than the base - then you want to have a layer of wax remaining. Or - the base has lower friction - in which case you don't want to put any wax on in the first place. Skiing the waxed ski will polish the wax anyway...
Great video. I have been waxing wrong for the past 49 years. I bought in 1970 an old iron at at the Salvation Army and when scrapping, I didn't remove all that much wax and then I buffed the base with a large cork block.
If you're just listening (scrolling reading comments)... it's Ray Romano teaching you how to wax properly :D ... It is a great instructional vid, though.
Doesn't scaping a dirty ski push the dirt into your base? Seems like a bad idea. Why not clean it with a lint free cloth and light citrus cleaner if needed
Great video and tips . I like the way ypu sharpen your scraper . Guess I'll be going to home depot . My nylon brush is full of wax after doing several skis. How can I clean them ? Again Thanks for the info
Buy a file card cleaner. Put this on your brush and twist, then repeat, it will get the wax out very easily www.homedepot.com/p/Nicholson-File-Cleaner-21455L/202080321
Excellent tutorial, perfect for me, "expert" recreational skier, fed up with poor and overpriced service and disgusted by the junk you get when using "premium" or "top" rentals. Thanks a lot.
Why remove the wax? I thought the point of wax base was to improve speed. What’s wrong with simply applying a good layer of wax, clean off the edges, and ski the next day? The friction of the course will naturally rub off the excess wax.
LoreZyra . TV I had a pair of rentals one time where the tech just rubbed some wax on and just scraped the excess but didn't remove very much of it and the skis gripped because it was really clumped onto the bottoms
@@SoberTea I don't use the rub-on wax. I use an iron to melt it on evenly and smooth. I don't have a problem reaching speeds of 90kph on the slopes. Hence my question.
The wax that the ski needs and can hold on to is already there after you hot wax, the rest is just superfluous. in Swedish we say the base is "mättad" which is the same word as full (as opposed to hungry). So you dont remove the wax, its already applied to the base, you just remove the excess. The basic reason why you need that much wax is that it would super hard not to burn your base if you used much less. I agree its overcourse to remove it all meticilously, you can get by with just a little scraping and no polishing, the performance is not that different after half a run. But brushing a lot def helps otherwise XC skiers etc wouldn't do it. Im a ski tech and the reason I clean excess off customer skis so carefully is just because I want to be proud of my work and the customer to be happy to get a fresh looking base. When I wax my own skis im not gonna spend more than a minute per ski scraping and brushing.
I have an issue with for the most part was decent advice...I wax every day if I have a set up for it at my home or hotel, not sporadically....at the end the season I wax but do not scrape, I “ALWAYS”wax skis at the end of season, scrape them off for the new season....Although a waxing video, it starts off with advice on making sure your skis are ready to be waxed...prior to screwing up your scraper, you check for burrs...I missed seeing that...I prefer wiping my skis, and never would use my scraper prior to scraping them in case impurities would be pressed into the base, to scrape without wiping is wrong...using a specifically made cleaning solvent to remove existing wax and dirt a thought...I rarely stuck to a single color wax, almost always using a multi wax,, like HERTEL, then a bit of blue, in winter, red in spring, and straight multi temp if unsure, or in late spring Sierra Nevada conditions to offset the Ammonia Nitrate used on the snow, in fact having a second pair using straight blue on the bulletproof corduroy stripes in the morning(Fischer RC4 RS GS Skis), switching to a slalom or all mountain ski once it all softens...it would have been helpful to see the type and management/padding on the vices as well...where was gummy burr remover?…where was the source to establish slope temperature in order to know how to wax?…where was the discussion on super high end race waxes, and how they work?
By far the best ski wax tutorial on the internet. Thank you!!! 👊
so after we removed all wax, what was the point of waxing? just asking, I dont get ti? Thanks
I never understood why the scraping of the wax after you put it on 🤔 I've alwase dripped, melted , then take a washcloth & in a circular motion rub in in more and walk away
98,247 views are definitely underestimated number. Best ski wax vid, and love the way that you are showing every detail!
What temp for the iron?
Why does everybody remove the wax again after coating the ski in it? That doesn't seem too smart. Either the wax has a lower coefficient of friction than the base - then you want to have a layer of wax remaining. Or - the base has lower friction - in which case you don't want to put any wax on in the first place. Skiing the waxed ski will polish the wax anyway...
@AMZ Training Where to get that Roto-Brush pls?
The sheet rock and 90 degree piece of aluminum was a great tip! Thanks for sharing.
What grit sheetrock sandpaper did you use?
Brilliant thanks for your time and tips
what temperature is your iron usually at?
69
Definitely the best ski wax video out there!
Great video. I have been waxing wrong for the past 49 years. I bought in 1970 an old iron at at the Salvation Army and when scrapping, I didn't remove all that much wax and then I buffed the base with a large cork block.
Aren't those steel brushes scratching the base?
Great tutorial. I just started doing my families skis and this sure helped. Btw I believe your drill is actually in forward, not reverse.
What grit are you using for the sheetrock sandpaper?
If you're just listening (scrolling reading comments)... it's Ray Romano teaching you how to wax properly :D ... It is a great instructional vid, though.
nice and simple enough instruction! Thanks, man
Thanks for clarifying you should scrape as much wax off as possible.
Doesn't scaping a dirty ski push the dirt into your base? Seems like a bad idea. Why not clean it with a lint free cloth and light citrus cleaner if needed
Great video and tips . I like the way ypu sharpen your scraper . Guess I'll be going to home depot . My nylon brush is full of wax after doing several skis. How can I clean them ? Again Thanks for the info
Buy a file card cleaner. Put this on your brush and twist, then repeat, it will get the wax out very easily
www.homedepot.com/p/Nicholson-File-Cleaner-21455L/202080321
Exactly what I needed!
Great vid!
Thanks!
If I omit the final brushing step will that slow me down a bit? I am not an experienced skier. ⛷
Excellent tutorial, perfect for me, "expert" recreational skier, fed up with poor and overpriced service and disgusted by the junk you get when using "premium" or "top" rentals. Thanks a lot.
Great video
Thank u for sharing
I'm really sure you can build it yourself. I did this 2 weeks ago thanks to the Woodglut plans.
Thanks very nice instruction!
Why remove the wax? I thought the point of wax base was to improve speed.
What’s wrong with simply applying a good layer of wax, clean off the edges, and ski the next day? The friction of the course will naturally rub off the excess wax.
LoreZyra . TV I had a pair of rentals one time where the tech just rubbed some wax on and just scraped the excess but didn't remove very much of it and the skis gripped because it was really clumped onto the bottoms
@@SoberTea I don't use the rub-on wax. I use an iron to melt it on evenly and smooth. I don't have a problem reaching speeds of 90kph on the slopes.
Hence my question.
The wax that the ski needs and can hold on to is already there after you hot wax, the rest is just superfluous. in Swedish we say the base is "mättad" which is the same word as full (as opposed to hungry). So you dont remove the wax, its already applied to the base, you just remove the excess. The basic reason why you need that much wax is that it would super hard not to burn your base if you used much less.
I agree its overcourse to remove it all meticilously, you can get by with just a little scraping and no polishing, the performance is not that different after half a run. But brushing a lot def helps otherwise XC skiers etc wouldn't do it. Im a ski tech and the reason I clean excess off customer skis so carefully is just because I want to be proud of my work and the customer to be happy to get a fresh looking base. When I wax my own skis im not gonna spend more than a minute per ski scraping and brushing.
Great info
Very good
I bought plans from Woodglut and did it very quickly.
Why not just engage the binding to get the brake out of the way?
Because it's independent of the heel plate?
engaging the binding won't pull the brake out of the way. you'll need a band to do that.
Make sure you're skis are at room temperature like inside for a good period of time so you don't ruin your base's never a cold base! Jeff Wilderberry
Consider using eye protection with power tools. Great video!
sweet!
I have an issue with for the most part was decent advice...I wax every day if I have a set up for it at my home or hotel, not sporadically....at the end the season I wax but do not scrape, I “ALWAYS”wax skis at the end of season, scrape them off for the new season....Although a waxing video, it starts off with advice on making sure your skis are ready to be waxed...prior to screwing up your scraper, you check for burrs...I missed seeing that...I prefer wiping my skis, and never would use my scraper prior to scraping them in case impurities would be pressed into the base, to scrape without wiping is wrong...using a specifically made cleaning solvent to remove existing wax and dirt a thought...I rarely stuck to a single color wax, almost always using a multi wax,, like HERTEL, then a bit of blue, in winter, red in spring, and straight multi temp if unsure, or in late spring Sierra Nevada conditions to offset the Ammonia Nitrate used on the snow, in fact having a second pair using straight blue on the bulletproof corduroy stripes in the morning(Fischer RC4 RS GS Skis), switching to a slalom or all mountain ski once it all softens...it would have been helpful to see the type and management/padding on the vices as well...where was gummy burr remover?…where was the source to establish slope temperature in order to know how to wax?…where was the discussion on super high end race waxes, and how they work?
What about Goo Gone (removes wax etc) is citrus based? www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/goo-gone-cleaner-236-ml-0530150p.html
Dickhead
@@RogerDiotte im not in canada?