Crazy for sure! It wouldn't be the fist time I have seen service/tech manuals mis-print something like this. Good call, I wouldn't have disassembled all that either, unless I seen coolant in the oil, compression issues or like you said evident leaks showing. Yes, adding extensions to a torque wrench decreases the actual torque value being applied, especially the longer and or smaller the diameter of the extension, e.g. with 1/4 -3/8 drive. Also, without getting to technical, its good to have a couple torque wrenches when things are critical and must be precise. For instance if you had to torque something at 40 ft lbs and had only one torque wrench, for instance 0 to 150 ft lbs, its accuracy would be much less then if you used a torque wrench rated at 0 to 50 ft lbs. I appreciate the video! I was just starting to look for a manual on ebay for my KLR - your video just helped me out with a few things!
Thanks for the input and like. The Early KLR 250 and their four wheeled counter parts the Mojave quads started suffering top end failures in very short order and I think Kawi blamed poor valve and head bolt mait on the issue to try and sweep it under the rug by making both 500 mile checks which is crazy. Pre 1989 KLR 250s made a claimed 28 HP, which is VERY impressive even today for bikes like the WR 250. Post 89 were said to be around 25 HP with de-tuned cam lift in the name of longer / more reasonable life spans but they claimed it was for emissions.
Please tell me that by now youve figured out that those mantinence dots are "at" not "every". For example. Oil changes are at 800km, then at 5000km, then at 10000km. You dont need to be changing oil every 500miles. that would be insane. Use a good quality oil with the correct addatives and the 5000km interval is perfectly fine for normal use. I do oil, valve clearences, clean cam chain tensioner, and air filter every 5000km, as per recommend by a guy with 150k km on his klr250
If you read the comments some have said 500 m is the break in oil change. I can't find anywhere in that schedule where that is noted as such. Most folks including me are fine with 1,500 good synthetic oil with a Zinc additive. My bike had not needed a valve adjustment yet and checked it when I bought it 7,000 miles ago.
Crazy for sure! It wouldn't be the fist time I have seen service/tech manuals mis-print something like this. Good call, I wouldn't have disassembled all that either, unless I seen coolant in the oil, compression issues or like you said evident leaks showing. Yes, adding extensions to a torque wrench decreases the actual torque value being applied, especially the longer and or smaller the diameter of the extension, e.g. with 1/4 -3/8 drive. Also, without getting to technical, its good to have a couple torque wrenches when things are critical and must be precise. For instance if you had to torque something at 40 ft lbs and had only one torque wrench, for instance 0 to 150 ft lbs, its accuracy would be much less then if you used a torque wrench rated at 0 to 50 ft lbs. I appreciate the video! I was just starting to look for a manual on ebay for my KLR - your video just helped me out with a few things!
Thanks for the input and like. The Early KLR 250 and their four wheeled counter parts the Mojave quads started suffering top end failures in very short order and I think Kawi blamed poor valve and head bolt mait on the issue to try and sweep it under the rug by making both 500 mile checks which is crazy. Pre 1989 KLR 250s made a claimed 28 HP, which is VERY impressive even today for bikes like the WR 250. Post 89 were said to be around 25 HP with de-tuned cam lift in the name of longer / more reasonable life spans but they claimed it was for emissions.
Please tell me that by now youve figured out that those mantinence dots are "at" not "every".
For example. Oil changes are at 800km, then at 5000km, then at 10000km.
You dont need to be changing oil every 500miles. that would be insane.
Use a good quality oil with the correct addatives and the 5000km interval is perfectly fine for normal use.
I do oil, valve clearences, clean cam chain tensioner, and air filter every 5000km, as per recommend by a guy with 150k km on his klr250
500 miles? I could do that in my sleep! Are your valves ever off?
If you read the comments some have said 500 m is the break in oil change. I can't find anywhere in that schedule where that is noted as such. Most folks including me are fine with 1,500 good synthetic oil with a Zinc additive. My bike had not needed a valve adjustment yet and checked it when I bought it 7,000 miles ago.