Every time I start watching these watch videos I know how it ends; the watch will be cleaned and fixed nicely, the timegrapher will say it is good and it will look perfect at the end. Then I ask why do I watch these videos? I have no answer, but I must watch them till the end. Sometimes I hold my breath when they install balance back or check the timegrapher results :)
I watched this watch assembly video in honor of my brother-in-law. He's the type of guy who, if you ask him what time it is, he'll tell you how to build a watch. I'm sure you've met people like that at one time or another. So I wanted to see how a person would actually build a watch. Very informative!
I'm glad to see you oiling the palette fork a few times because many watchmakers only oil the palette fork with '1 dab', and that isn't enough. I enjoy watching your videos, also my watchmaker daughter is learning much for you. And that pleases me, too. Also not polishing off all the scrapes from this lovely old 1969 Longines Ultra-Chron does retain the vintage look that is often preferred by buyers. Thank you so much for this video. Wishing you all the very best, Wendi 🌻
Out of all the mid-tier brands I absolutely adore Longines. I have three in my collection and told myself I wouldn't add another Longines but that new Zulu Time GMT they just released is definitively going to join my collection.
Longines really is a great brand, and back in the day they were top tier. It's a bit sad that ETA put them below Omega when they were in fact at least at the same level until the quartz crisis....
@@VintageWatchServices +1000 Longines were very much at the top table. They had an aviation history brands like IWC and Breitling could only dream of. They were _the_ inhouse chronograph company of most of the 20th century. Every two button chrono down to today, that's a longines invention(not Breitling. They had them 6 years before them). Flyback chronograph too. First specifically for wristwatches chrono movement. Oh and the external rotating bezel on pretty much every diver out there? Longines again, though originally for pilots watches. Rolex may write "Superlative Chronometer" on their dials, but in the _actual_ chronometer trials Longines won more in some years that Rolex won in the entire history of the trials. When Swatch were putting brands in tiers I suspect Longines got the lower position because Omega had taken over from the 60's onwards, had more recognisable brand lines like seamaster, speedmaster(and the Moonwatch), they had weathered the digital crisis in a better position and the name was easier to pronounce and spell in more languages(not so daft as Hans Wilsdorf picked the name "Rolex" for those reasons). So Longines became the "heritage" brand and old style wider choice and cheaper brand.
@@MrGrentch I concur wholeheartedly, and they should also drop the group name Swatch in favour of something more befitting the whole product range. It breaks my heart that Breguet and Blancpain are associated with the Swatch branding: a name that encapsulates 1980's throwaway plastic digital consumerism - than precision engineering, artistry and Swiss heritage. Perhaps Groupe des Horlogers Suisses or other such nomenclature.
@@VintageWatchServices, I had two early Quartz & good quality as well, but ditched 'em quick when I found the battery can "flat-out at any time..? & on one occassion an important event- for that reason they are a NO-NO in my book... "Why @ 29:11 was the second hand travelling acw? Also not a criticism, just an observation, given the glowing spec' on this T-piece? why no Timegrapher readout ?
I always wondered how people worked on such fine mechanical watches. I see it takes very special tools and equipment. I would like to see a video on those tools. And now I wonder how they made such small mechanical parts such as screws, gears and pinions. Thank you for showing the invisible world of mechanical marvels.
Zenith with the El Primero and Elite movements were hi beat movement at 36K They were great movements but as you said had to be serviced more frequently. I serviced mine every three years. They also had a variety of lubricants required for different parts of to the movement. Your quote about people ignoring the service intervals is such a wise one. I enjoy your input, and look forward to your posts. Regards Ian
I always enjoy following along with real pros plying their craft. What they make look effortless certainly isn't. My limited skillset (early 1900's American RR pocket watches - huge parts in comparison, simple movements - self taught too ...lol) always is confounded with the knowledge the master have. Thanks for the inspiration you imbue and the knowledge you impart! DT
An excellent video! I think a frequent cause of failed center wheel plate jewels is watchmakers manipulating the center wheel to the side, in order to remove the barrel without pulling the cannon pinion and then removing the train wheel bridge. It’s easy to crack the jewel that way, and maybe not even realize that it happened. In any case, good catch and nice repair!
I just acquired this exact watch three days ago! I received it in the mail yesterday! I'm definitely getting it serviced! These Ultra-Chrons are one of the best series of watches that was ever made! Longines is the best vintage watch brand in my opinion.
Very cool Longines. 🙂 Those high beats were the last gasp of the mechanical accuracy pursuit back then. Like you mentioned Longines, Seiko and Girard Perregaux. Interestingly all three were also pursuing the new quartz tech in the background, Longines with their Ultraquartz(and as part of the Swiss Beta 21 group. Longines had the cash back then), Seiko in what was to become their Astron and GP what would be their 350 series of quartz movements(with a little help from JLC), which was the movement that set the near universal frequency rate of quartz ever since. In the annual chronometer trials the Swiss had started to enter quartz movements from the mid 60's, which of course were winning. The last two that didn't go this route were GP and Seiko, Seiko having come late to the trials, starting off badly but climbing to the top year on year. For some reason Longines didn't bother with their high beat mechanicals. Odd given they had won more chronometer trial prizes than any other brand(Omega and Zenith were 2nd and 3rd. Brands like Rolex Patek and AP barely registered if ever). Though their Ultraquartz won a few. Odder again unlike Omega and others Longines rarely sold certified chronometers. It's very rare to find one with chronometer on the dial. I had an Ultrachron years ago that was certified. The movement looked the same except the rotor was gold coloured and it had "chronometre" on the dial. Sorry I sold it. 🙂 In the last chronometer trials the quartz won, but there were two mechanicals in the top ten, GP and Seiko which came in on top. So the last mechanical movements to win prizes were from GP and Seiko, and unlike the others you could actually walk into a jewellers and buy them. They could also officially print "Observatory Chronometer" on their dials, AFAIK the only brands that ever could. Of course the Swiss didn't like this upstart non Swiss Seiko winning so closed the trials down and took their ball back.
@@joeskeptical4762 :) not really Joe. Only my areas of interest, so early wristwatches, early electronic/quartz, some military stuff and some Longines. Beyond that I'm lost. :)
I have an Admiral Automatic with "Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial just below the Longines name and logo. It has a 28,800 bph movement and an eight sided case.
Fabulous service on this special classic watch. Always amazed at the workmanship of its production and the skills of yours, for servicing. Great looking Vintage piece. Kudos
Been a subscriber for a few months and I still can’t believe it took me so long to discover this channel. Informative and educational while also being entertaining. Love this channel.
Fantastic video again Stian. Every time you work on one of these Longines, I like the brand more and more, no other brand is like that for me. Maybe I am just getting older and appreciate refinement more :-)
Speaking of quickset date mechanisms,I have an early '70's Lanco which you change the date by pushing in the crown.I believe the movement came from Omega via Tissot.That's what my research came up with........................................
I do believe that the reduction in the beat rate was related to durability issues. Omega did the same thing with its co-axial movement, which originally ran at 28,800 bph and then was reduced to 25,200 bph and was accompanied by an increase in the warranty period from two years to four years. In any event, with its grey dial and pillow case, it is a very handsome watch that once again you have restored to its full glory. Well done, Stian.
Thanks Bullnose and yes, I think you're right. What drives those issues however is a lack of servicing, and that again is down to buyers basically just wearing their watches until it stops or runs really badly. With watches made before the quartz crisis, this could take decades, as the watches were made with the best materials back then. Nowadays, it can take less than one decade due to lesser materials and a different business models, where the brands change lots of parts in every service and charges the buyer...
Stain at the Arnold Schwarzenegger school of watch making they tried to calculate the imperail amount of oil used in serving a movement they gave up went to the gyro wheel spun it off its axis then had donuts for morning tea then back to the bench for hammer time. A great restoration as always and still in paradise I see. Keep well from NZ
Really love Longines watch the quality is there for sure !! Really love this services, wish to have one to service in the future !! Thanks for this video Tian !!
I always look forward to Saturday afternoon when I can take a break and watch a master at work. As always - nice history lesson along with the usual watchmaking lore. Thank you, Sir!! And I agree with Steve (below). That Zulu Time GMT has my name written all over it!
That's very nice to hear, Milan 😊 And the Zulu Time GMT indeed looks great. Longines still has a very talented design team and I really hope they get the brand back to old heights.
I own a rectangular Longines with fixed bracelet attachments rating from 1918. Still running fine after a short oiling and I wear it from time to time. Very light weighted. Must be one of the first men's wristwatch from Longines, since at that time they weren't very popular.
I have five of these and still I'm afraid to do a full-service on one of these calibers don't want to kill it. I've been practicing on basic old Swiss 18000 beats that are basically simple and forgiving.
Thanks for another fantastic video, Stian!! Did you need to adjust the jewel depth? Starting with my last service, I *lightly* install the minute hand in any position before rolling the crown to find the date snap-over point. I roll the crown through 2 or 3 snap-overs to see how repeatable it is and average (to the minute) the numbers. Then, I pop off the minute hand and do a full hand installation. It worked really well on my last project. I believe you said the snap-over will be slightly different when the watch runs vs. rolling the crown. So, maybe this is a (slight) waste of time. Thanks again!!
Hello Woody, I somehow managed to press the jewel into the right depth at the first try... I was surprised myself! For a watch like this I indeed turn the crown through a couple of date changes and count the number of revolutions. For this one I think it was 63. Then I make 60 fast revolutions and slow down for the last few. And yes, the movement will flip the date slightly slower than when you use the crown, typically some 2-5 minutes.
I believe the Imperial measurement you're looking for is called a "minim", which is 1/480 of a fl oz. So your 1/1000 ml would be approximately 1/60 minim. Ironically just as 1 second is 1/60 of a minute.
*The design and architecture are straightforward, the 10Hz rate is the unique thing. It’s great to hear....lovely service job, classic 70s case & dial design, arriving just a year early. Would a new mainspring increase amplitude above 300 degrees but more important, would a “heart transplant” improve accuracy over several weeks to a month?*
A new mainspring probably would increase the amplitude quite a bit indeed and this watch is still capable of fantastic accuracy. And 36000 bph is generally referred to as 5hz 😉
@@VintageWatchServices *: Thanks for correcting me! 10 beats per second, 5 cycles (2 beats, to & fro) per cycle. I studied electricity a long time ago, I should remember what I learned back then, courtesy of Herr Heinrich Rudolf Hertz.*
A very entertaining and educational video, thank you for making it. What is the rationale of the manufacturer behind making a mainspring barrel that they label 'Do not open'?
Thanks Michael! I believe they did that to ensure that no one messed up the hairspring, but it's a bit short sighted obviously. Nowadays you do not see this anymore.
Thanks Stian for a great video on a really classy movement. I try to tell myself accuracy isn't so important on my mechanical watches but the more time flies by, the more I like my watches to be precise. A good result on this one indeed. Do you think the guys who say they can service 'do not open' mainspring barrels are just lucky or maybe they have a store of NOS parts? Cheers, Howard
Thanks Howard! It's nice to have your watch show time accurately to a reasonable degree, but we still measure our lives in minutes and hours rather than seconds. So yeah, if your watch is off by a few seconds a day shouldn't really be an issue. You can open the barrels but I prefer to have a spare one if I do so. They can be tricky to put back together again without distorting them. Thus I generally try the old one first to see if it gives a good enough result.
I have two Favre Leuba watches with the 36000 bpm movements. I thought that they were used by several companies and were basically the same so is the Longines any different apart from branding? A also have a 70s longines chronograpgh but sady, by this time they were using standard Valjoux 7750 movements - they certainly do need to recover their heritage!
There were a few companies and consortiums making 36000 bph watches back in the day, it was a bit the same race as for making the first automatic chronograph. ETA also made 36000 bph movements.
Another great video that I am certainly going to watch at least a couple of times: thank you Stian. The 5 Hz movement has its advantages (accuracy and just look at how smooth that second hand moves) and its disadvantages (wear and tear). Most of the vintage watch sellers that I have met over the last 30 years here in Zürich have told me that watches made in the 1950s are the ones anyone should really cherish and look for. They usually say that the tools had improved by miles then and that watch manufacturers could again procure excellent raw material (after the Second World War). The high beat watches from the late 60s were not so lucky - and if I consider my son's Zenith El Primero - still aren't. To make watches cheaper and therefore more accessible to the general public, watch manufacturers had to cut down on costs. It mostly shows in the material they have chosen to work with. In the long run it does only work at very high maintenance costs. Think of the Shelby AC Cobra 427: you put a huge engine into a small car and will have to replace the gear box every 2'500km. It looks great, it is fast, it has an incredible acceleration, but it is hideously difficult to drive properly, if you can drive it at all. Today, new, more restitant materials have emerged, but you pay for them in gold. And frankly, they do not look cool, but that is my opinion. Maybe you can enlighten us on this? I am a total layman and not claiming any deeper knowledge.
What you're saying is pretty much spot on and you've certainly good knowledge :) I wrote a blog post about this topic here: www.vintagewatchservices.eu/single-post/the-problem-or-not-of-servicing-vintage-watches The business model of the watch brands has changed fundamentally in the last 50 years, sadly very much to the worse for us watch lovers.
@@VintageWatchServices Only today did I read your excellent post - sorry. It is so informative, critical and a pleasure to read that you really should make a TH-cam video about it, which would enlighten so many watch enthusiasts. I would not even consider myself as belonging into that latter group, but I just love objects that were built to last and that can be repaired. Thank you for promoting exactly these ideas on your superb channel.
It is true, my El Primero needs every 4 to 5 years an overhaul at the manufacturer in Le Locle. It always costs quiet a bit of money and ist takes 3 Monts of time. But after decades it still is loking very good and runs within a few seconds error per month. I wear it every day. Over night it is always in the same position. I am very happy to have a Chronomaster from the time they were COSC certificatet.
Hi! I’m wondering - before electronic beat counters, how did watch makers determine error rates and calibrate the watch? I’m sorry if you’ve addressed this elsewhere. Thanks!
Beautiful....and I can see why servicing is expensive..... pondering whether it is cheaper to replace my little Seiko than to get it cleaned when it needs it.....unless of course I acquire the skills to do it myself.... oh dear... can't see that happening... Its 4207 movement is so tiny! 😀
So , Resurrection time ! You are like JC , saying : " Longines , wake - up and wind " ! Amazing , isn ' t it ? Great moments , watching this video . Thanks !
Do you have a watch service video where you worked on a watch with a smooth second hand. Usually you see them pulse slightly like this watch does with every swing of the balance wheel.
Great! Thank you for the definition of the imperial measurement 🙂! Did you ever had servicing contact to a humming watch like a bulova 2181? Please let me/us know. Bests from germany!
Thanks for watching! No, watches from this era mostly use plastic crystals and the cases are shaped accordingly. Putting in a crystal made from a different material would not only make the watch less original, it would also potentially damage the case.
Im fascinated with the engineering on that scale. Also wonder about the lubricants, they must be truly something. Do you use torque adjustable screwdrivers ?
Do these high beat watches need maintenance (oiling) more frequent? Do you use the same oils/greases? And finally do the high beating parts wear quicker?? Great video
They probably don't really need lubricating more frequently, and the lubrication is the same. The parts also do not wear quicker due to the high beat, they wear quicker due to the stronger mainsprings and with it higher pressure on the pivots. More frequent service intervals would be driven by the need to check the pivots and bearings rather than the lubrication, in my view.
Been watching you videos for quite some time and a few others here on youtube. I really enjoy your approach to making these videos and have started to get into this as a hobby a bit with some old pocket watches. Could I be so bold as to ask how do you source parts etc for older watches. I have looked and seems there are some but was hoping a professonal such as yourself could guide me in a more pointed direction. Keep these videos coming. I really enjoyed seeing this masterpiece of engineering!
Hello David, great to hear you're getting into watchmaking! The main source is actually eBay, but there are also a lot of smaller dealers around the internet. Also, there are some good Facebook groups you could join.
As a total newbie to watch repair, I probably haven’t read into this question yet. All things being equal (or not), what causes higher or lower BPH. The structure of all the parts appears to be like any other movement , so what causes 36,000 BPH as opposed to 18,000? Great video as always by the way!
The key component is the hairspring. It's basically a pendulum wound up in a spiral instead of hanging down and the accuracy of a watch depends on that pendulum having exactly the correct period. You'll see in videos how regulating works - a tiny "clamp" is moved along the spring making it effectively a bit longer and shorter. A hi-beat movement has a very different hairspring to a standard one as it has to swivel left-right twice as fast. The pallet forks and escape wheel thus also move faster than standard escapements so the 4th wheel has a different gear ratio to standard. If I understand the designs correctly, the output of the 4th wheel is mostly the same for all movements - no matter how fast the escapement is, the hands all rotate at the same rate for all 3 handers (well, the 12 hour ones!)
Looking to buy online one of these wonderful 36000bph Longines. Is there a surefire way to identify a 36000 over a 28800 version when viewing a photo of the movement?
Yes, there is. The 36000 versions were the 430 family movements, and the movement number for Longines' from this era were stamped on top of the train bridge.
My Longines keeps the best time of all the watches in my collecion (it's not an Ultra-Chron or vintage). I do have a question, though. I have seen on a couple of your episodes, instances where the main spring barrel cannot be opened. Why is this and what is the difference between those barrels/main springs and "ordinary" ones? Thanks for sharing, Stian.
Hello, excellent video. Can you help me? Do you know of any shops in or around Geneve that sell used machines or machine parts? Like wheel cutters, decoration machine, grillage and other?
Thanks for watching! I don't really know of any specific shops I'm afraid, but most of these would not be in Geneva, I think. Rather in the vallée de joux, in the smaller villages and towns.
Great to see this video. Bought my Longines Ultra Chron in 1969 whilst serving in the RAF stationed in Bahrain. Still working great today.
Every time I start watching these watch videos I know how it ends; the watch will be cleaned and fixed nicely, the timegrapher will say it is good and it will look perfect at the end. Then I ask why do I watch these videos? I have no answer, but I must watch them till the end. Sometimes I hold my breath when they install balance back or check the timegrapher results :)
😂 Sounds like a good summary of every video! Thanks for watching them, Yusuf :)
What I found is that hobbies can sneak up on you like this, posing as idle interests that you never intend to act on at first.
I find the need to try this even though I am ham fisted
It's like they copied Hollywood or something.... I find them calming
@@vonkruel
Agreed. I went from not knowing what jewels were for, to figuring out how much a watchmakers bench costs to set-up in my shed 😭
Very clear description of greasing the pallet fork jewel and the teeth of the escape wheel and great photography of that task.
Thanks, Paul!
Ditto, have watched this done many times, but never so clearly shown & described. Bravo.
That's the best disassembly/assembly video of a watch I've ever seen. It makes me appreciate my own 1967 Ultra Chron. Thank you.
Lovely watch and great technology for the time it was built.. seconds hand tick like it got two hearts.. great work Stian!! -
😊👍
I watched this watch assembly video in honor of my brother-in-law. He's the type of guy who, if you ask him what time it is, he'll tell you how to build a watch. I'm sure you've met people like that at one time or another. So I wanted to see how a person would actually build a watch. Very informative!
Thanks Toshiko! I think your brother in law will be very proud of you 😉
@@VintageWatchServices 😅
This is by far the best watch repair video I've seen on social media! Absolutely Beautifull!
Glad you liked it!
The slo mo on the pallet fork greasing was awesome!
Glad you liked it!
Oh, I love this movement. I'm so glad you did a video with this watch. Thank you!
Great to hear, Randy :)
This is pure wizardry. My respect for this craft is almost infinite.
😊👍
I'm glad to see you oiling the palette fork a few times because many watchmakers only oil the palette fork with '1 dab', and that isn't enough. I enjoy watching your videos, also my watchmaker daughter is learning much for you. And that pleases me, too. Also not polishing off all the scrapes from this lovely old 1969 Longines Ultra-Chron does retain the vintage look that is often preferred by buyers. Thank you so much for this video. Wishing you all the very best, Wendi 🌻
Thanks, Wendi and say hi to your daughter :)
An outstanding watch; classy, advanced (for its time) and understated.
Longines... terrific watches of the day.
Another splendid video.
Thanks Clive, and yes, Longines was really on top of their game back in the day... I hope they will climb back up.
Out of all the mid-tier brands I absolutely adore Longines. I have three in my collection and told myself I wouldn't add another Longines but that new Zulu Time GMT they just released is definitively going to join my collection.
Longines really is a great brand, and back in the day they were top tier. It's a bit sad that ETA put them below Omega when they were in fact at least at the same level until the quartz crisis....
@@VintageWatchServices +1000 Longines were very much at the top table. They had an aviation history brands like IWC and Breitling could only dream of. They were _the_ inhouse chronograph company of most of the 20th century. Every two button chrono down to today, that's a longines invention(not Breitling. They had them 6 years before them). Flyback chronograph too. First specifically for wristwatches chrono movement. Oh and the external rotating bezel on pretty much every diver out there? Longines again, though originally for pilots watches. Rolex may write "Superlative Chronometer" on their dials, but in the _actual_ chronometer trials Longines won more in some years that Rolex won in the entire history of the trials.
When Swatch were putting brands in tiers I suspect Longines got the lower position because Omega had taken over from the 60's onwards, had more recognisable brand lines like seamaster, speedmaster(and the Moonwatch), they had weathered the digital crisis in a better position and the name was easier to pronounce and spell in more languages(not so daft as Hans Wilsdorf picked the name "Rolex" for those reasons).
So Longines became the "heritage" brand and old style wider choice and cheaper brand.
@@MrGrentch Wow, that's a great little piece you wrote. You do make the case for Longines! Lot of that I for one did not know... tx
@@MrGrentch I concur wholeheartedly, and they should also drop the group name Swatch in favour of something more befitting the whole product range. It breaks my heart that Breguet and Blancpain are associated with the Swatch branding: a name that encapsulates 1980's throwaway plastic digital consumerism - than precision engineering, artistry and Swiss heritage. Perhaps Groupe des Horlogers Suisses or other such nomenclature.
@@VintageWatchServices, I had two early Quartz & good quality as well, but ditched 'em quick when I found the battery can "flat-out at any time..? & on one occassion an important event- for that reason they are a NO-NO in my book... "Why @ 29:11 was the second hand travelling acw? Also not a criticism, just an observation, given the glowing spec' on this T-piece? why no Timegrapher readout ?
I always wondered how people worked on such fine mechanical watches. I see it takes very special tools and equipment. I would like to see a video on those tools. And now I wonder how they made such small mechanical parts such as screws, gears and pinions. Thank you for showing the invisible world of mechanical marvels.
Thanks a lot, Jason! I'll hopefully make some wheels and screws on the channel a bit in the future 👍
@@VintageWatchServices Subscribed because id like to see it too.
@@VintageWatchServices Please!
Are you interested to sell some of these watches
@@VintageWatchServices
Are you interested to sell some of these watches
Absolutely fantastic movement. Longines is amazing.
Yep, vintage Longines are fantastic!
Your timing is perfect! Longines just unveiled the production of a new Ultrachron with a 36,000vph. Cheers!
I saw it! Very cool to see. I truly think Longines is getting their groove back which is really great.
I'm wearing my 1969 Seiko Lord Marvel today while I watch this - 36000 bph movements unite!!
Very cool! There aren't too many 36000 watches around :)
Seems like the depth of the added jewel was good since you did not comment afterwards, what a master in your art….!
Now that's a very fine looking watch, especially with the grey dial. Lovely work Stian.
Thanks so much, Luke :)
That is an exceptionally beautiful watch. And thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Another great video. Could watch these all day long 😊👍🏻
Awesome, thank you!
Zenith with the El Primero and Elite movements were hi beat movement at 36K
They were great movements but as you said had to be serviced more frequently. I serviced mine every three years. They also had a variety of lubricants required for different parts of to the movement.
Your quote about people ignoring the service intervals is such a wise one.
I enjoy your input, and look forward to your posts.
Regards Ian
Thanks a lot, Ian!
Another great video and further demonstration of your expertise and knowledge. There is a lot that can be learned here.
Thanks again!
I always enjoy following along with real pros plying their craft. What they make look effortless certainly isn't. My limited skillset (early 1900's American RR pocket watches - huge parts in comparison, simple movements - self taught too ...lol) always is confounded with the knowledge the master have.
Thanks for the inspiration you imbue and the knowledge you impart!
DT
Thanks so much for watching, DT !
Wow it moves so smoothly
It does!
another amazing service and restoration of a beautiful watch Stian!
Thanks so much, Jon! Say hi to Jane from me :)
@@VintageWatchServices I would, but she left me for John Doe, something about not being able to spell happy without an H ;)
@@De4thInc4rn4te16 🤣
All the violence a watchmaker can muster LOL good video!
Nice and very well done video and job. Greetings from Madrid,Spain.
An excellent video! I think a frequent cause of failed center wheel plate jewels is watchmakers manipulating the center wheel to the side, in order to remove the barrel without pulling the cannon pinion and then removing the train wheel bridge. It’s easy to crack the jewel that way, and maybe not even realize that it happened. In any case, good catch and nice repair!
Thanks Paul, and that might indeed be the case. A small crack can happen with not too much force and that crack will develop over time.
I just acquired this exact watch three days ago! I received it in the mail yesterday! I'm definitely getting it serviced! These Ultra-Chrons are one of the best series of watches that was ever made! Longines is the best vintage watch brand in my opinion.
@pc Thanks!!
Very cool, congrats!
Very cool Longines. 🙂 Those high beats were the last gasp of the mechanical accuracy pursuit back then. Like you mentioned Longines, Seiko and Girard Perregaux. Interestingly all three were also pursuing the new quartz tech in the background, Longines with their Ultraquartz(and as part of the Swiss Beta 21 group. Longines had the cash back then), Seiko in what was to become their Astron and GP what would be their 350 series of quartz movements(with a little help from JLC), which was the movement that set the near universal frequency rate of quartz ever since.
In the annual chronometer trials the Swiss had started to enter quartz movements from the mid 60's, which of course were winning. The last two that didn't go this route were GP and Seiko, Seiko having come late to the trials, starting off badly but climbing to the top year on year.
For some reason Longines didn't bother with their high beat mechanicals. Odd given they had won more chronometer trial prizes than any other brand(Omega and Zenith were 2nd and 3rd. Brands like Rolex Patek and AP barely registered if ever). Though their Ultraquartz won a few. Odder again unlike Omega and others Longines rarely sold certified chronometers. It's very rare to find one with chronometer on the dial. I had an Ultrachron years ago that was certified. The movement looked the same except the rotor was gold coloured and it had "chronometre" on the dial. Sorry I sold it. 🙂
In the last chronometer trials the quartz won, but there were two mechanicals in the top ten, GP and Seiko which came in on top. So the last mechanical movements to win prizes were from GP and Seiko, and unlike the others you could actually walk into a jewellers and buy them. They could also officially print "Observatory Chronometer" on their dials, AFAIK the only brands that ever could.
Of course the Swiss didn't like this upstart non Swiss Seiko winning so closed the trials down and took their ball back.
I did not know that.
*You know good horology history!*
@@joeskeptical4762 :) not really Joe. Only my areas of interest, so early wristwatches, early electronic/quartz, some military stuff and some Longines. Beyond that I'm lost. :)
Very nice write-up, thanks for sharing!
I have an Admiral Automatic with "Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial just below the Longines name and logo. It has a 28,800 bph movement and an eight sided case.
Fabulous service on this special classic watch. Always amazed at the workmanship of its production and the skills of yours, for servicing. Great looking Vintage piece. Kudos
Very special indeed! I never tire of watching and today's was extra special, I never knew that they had doubled the beat to make it more accurate.
Thanks so much, Fred! They did indeed and a higher beat rate does enable more accuracy but it's also no guarantee for it.
I believe the Bulova Accutron watch with the 214 "Tuning Fork" movement might have put marketing pressure on Longines due to it's accuracy.
Yes, great work and a handsome watch indeed!
Klasse mit wieviel Liebe und technischen Wissen dieser Uhrmacher Meister die Uhr aufarbeitet.
Dankesehr, Sven :)
Been a subscriber for a few months and I still can’t believe it took me so long to discover this channel. Informative and educational while also being entertaining. Love this channel.
Thanks Alex, that's very nice to hear :) More to come!
I'm a day late but its a great weekend when you debut a new video. Great restoration!
Thank you.
Cheers!
Thanks so much, Angel 😊
Fantastic video again Stian. Every time you work on one of these Longines, I like the brand more and more, no other brand is like that for me. Maybe I am just getting older and appreciate refinement more :-)
Thanks Alan! Vintage Longines' are really fabulous watches and among my absolute favourites!
Speaking of quickset date mechanisms,I have an early '70's Lanco which you change the date by pushing in the crown.I believe the movement came from Omega via Tissot.That's what my research came up with........................................
That's probably the Tissot 2471 indeed, which Omega called the 1480 and used in some of their more affordable watches. It's a very good movement!
I do believe that the reduction in the beat rate was related to durability issues. Omega did the same thing with its co-axial movement, which originally ran at 28,800 bph and then was reduced to 25,200 bph and was accompanied by an increase in the warranty period from two years to four years. In any event, with its grey dial and pillow case, it is a very handsome watch that once again you have restored to its full glory. Well done, Stian.
Thanks Bullnose and yes, I think you're right. What drives those issues however is a lack of servicing, and that again is down to buyers basically just wearing their watches until it stops or runs really badly. With watches made before the quartz crisis, this could take decades, as the watches were made with the best materials back then. Nowadays, it can take less than one decade due to lesser materials and a different business models, where the brands change lots of parts in every service and charges the buyer...
@@VintageWatchServices And that is why as much as I love chronographs, I don't own one. Too expensive to properly maintain.
Stain at the Arnold Schwarzenegger school of watch making they tried to calculate the imperail amount of oil used in serving a movement they gave up went to the gyro wheel spun it off its axis then had donuts for morning tea then back to the bench for hammer time. A great restoration as always and still in paradise I see. Keep well from NZ
Well, you can't say they didn't try then! 😂Thanks Bruce :)
Really love Longines watch the quality is there for sure !! Really love this services, wish to have one to service in the future !! Thanks for this video Tian !!
Thanks for watching, Alain :) Stian
@@VintageWatchServices Sorry for your name mistake !!
Very nice watch mister. Now I want one. Btw I think I may have seen a stray grey nose hair while you were greasing the pallet jewels.
You're right! 😂I removed it in between the lubrication :)
@@VintageWatchServices they are starting to become the Easter eggs off the channel! 😂 for 10 points and a free sticker, where is the nose hair!
I always look forward to Saturday afternoon when I can take a break and watch a master at work. As always - nice history lesson along with the usual watchmaking lore. Thank you, Sir!! And I agree with Steve (below). That Zulu Time GMT has my name written all over it!
That's very nice to hear, Milan 😊 And the Zulu Time GMT indeed looks great. Longines still has a very talented design team and I really hope they get the brand back to old heights.
A. Schild cal 1920 is an interesting high beat movement as well. Maybe more widely used.
Love a good sweep, grate job 👍
Thanks, Andy!
Great video as always, thanks. At 29:06 the watch is running backwards.
Ah, you're right! Is it a feature or a bug 🤔
thanks for these amazing videos!
Glad you like them!
fantastic to be allowed to see
Thanks for seeing it! :)
Awesome, good strap choice, looks made for it
Got my calipers out to check inch to mm (metric/imperial) - your right. Sometimes we don't hear that enough around the house. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching it!
Congratulations on reaching 20,000 subscribers.
Well deserved.
Thanks so much Clive 😊
I thoroughly enjoy watching an expert like you. Could you tell me how many years you've been working on watches.
Hello Larry, thanks for watching! I've tinkered with watches for some 15+ years but only went full-time about 5 years ago.
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Ouch the timegrapher in the beginning…actually it fits the season 🤣🤣 great snow globe effect.
I own a rectangular Longines with fixed bracelet attachments rating from 1918. Still running fine after a short oiling and I wear it from time to time. Very light weighted. Must be one of the first men's wristwatch from Longines, since at that time they weren't very popular.
Very cool!
Another great restoration of a lovely watch 👍
Thanks, Andrew!
I have five of these and still I'm afraid to do a full-service on one of these calibers don't want to kill it. I've been practicing on basic old Swiss 18000 beats that are basically simple and forgiving.
Love you rewind sounds, laughing so hard!!!!
😁👍
Another great video Stian! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching it, Gary!
That hairspring is flat out getting it
Thanks for another fantastic video, Stian!! Did you need to adjust the jewel depth? Starting with my last service, I *lightly* install the minute hand in any position before rolling the crown to find the date snap-over point. I roll the crown through 2 or 3 snap-overs to see how repeatable it is and average (to the minute) the numbers. Then, I pop off the minute hand and do a full hand installation. It worked really well on my last project. I believe you said the snap-over will be slightly different when the watch runs vs. rolling the crown. So, maybe this is a (slight) waste of time. Thanks again!!
Hello Woody, I somehow managed to press the jewel into the right depth at the first try... I was surprised myself! For a watch like this I indeed turn the crown through a couple of date changes and count the number of revolutions. For this one I think it was 63. Then I make 60 fast revolutions and slow down for the last few. And yes, the movement will flip the date slightly slower than when you use the crown, typically some 2-5 minutes.
super watch sir
Thanks for being such a loyal viewer, Covai!
Awesome!
Excellent work as usual. A pleasure to watch.
Thanks again, Ken!
I believe the Imperial measurement you're looking for is called a "minim", which is 1/480 of a fl oz. So your 1/1000 ml would be approximately 1/60 minim. Ironically just as 1 second is 1/60 of a minute.
*The design and architecture are straightforward, the 10Hz rate is the unique thing. It’s great to hear....lovely service job, classic 70s case & dial design, arriving just a year early. Would a new mainspring increase amplitude above 300 degrees but more important, would a “heart transplant” improve accuracy over several weeks to a month?*
A new mainspring probably would increase the amplitude quite a bit indeed and this watch is still capable of fantastic accuracy. And 36000 bph is generally referred to as 5hz 😉
@@VintageWatchServices *: Thanks for correcting me! 10 beats per second, 5 cycles (2 beats, to & fro) per cycle. I studied electricity a long time ago, I should remember what I learned back then, courtesy of Herr Heinrich Rudolf Hertz.*
Great work. Fantastic watch.
Thanks Ian:)
A very entertaining and educational video, thank you for making it. What is the rationale of the manufacturer behind making a mainspring barrel that they label 'Do not open'?
Thanks Michael! I believe they did that to ensure that no one messed up the hairspring, but it's a bit short sighted obviously. Nowadays you do not see this anymore.
Thanks Stian for a great video on a really classy movement. I try to tell myself accuracy isn't so important on my mechanical watches but the more time flies by, the more I like my watches to be precise. A good result on this one indeed. Do you think the guys who say they can service 'do not open' mainspring barrels are just lucky or maybe they have a store of NOS parts? Cheers, Howard
Thanks Howard! It's nice to have your watch show time accurately to a reasonable degree, but we still measure our lives in minutes and hours rather than seconds. So yeah, if your watch is off by a few seconds a day shouldn't really be an issue.
You can open the barrels but I prefer to have a spare one if I do so. They can be tricky to put back together again without distorting them. Thus I generally try the old one first to see if it gives a good enough result.
Evree time woching & i am watch mekar in india your work is soo good 🙏
8-8-10!
Watchmakers,...so detail oriented!
And second hand going backwards! Lol
It's the small things that count 😉
24:08 .001ml converted to Imperial is 1/3 octosmidge.
😂
“as we can see, the seconds hand moves 10 times a second, 1.. 2.. 5.. (Three sir!) 3.. 8.. 8.. 10! “
😁
I have two Favre Leuba watches with the 36000 bpm movements. I thought that they were used by several companies and were basically the same so is the Longines any different apart from branding? A also have a 70s longines chronograpgh but sady, by this time they were using standard Valjoux 7750 movements - they certainly do need to recover their heritage!
There were a few companies and consortiums making 36000 bph watches back in the day, it was a bit the same race as for making the first automatic chronograph. ETA also made 36000 bph movements.
Another great video that I am certainly going to watch at least a couple of times: thank you Stian.
The 5 Hz movement has its advantages (accuracy and just look at how smooth that second hand moves) and its disadvantages (wear and tear).
Most of the vintage watch sellers that I have met over the last 30 years here in Zürich have told me that watches made in the 1950s are the ones anyone should really cherish and look for. They usually say that the tools had improved by miles then and that watch manufacturers could again procure excellent raw material (after the Second World War). The high beat watches from the late 60s were not so lucky - and if I consider my son's Zenith El Primero - still aren't. To make watches cheaper and therefore more accessible to the general public, watch manufacturers had to cut down on costs. It mostly shows in the material they have chosen to work with. In the long run it does only work at very high maintenance costs. Think of the Shelby AC Cobra 427: you put a huge engine into a small car and will have to replace the gear box every 2'500km. It looks great, it is fast, it has an incredible acceleration, but it is hideously difficult to drive properly, if you can drive it at all.
Today, new, more restitant materials have emerged, but you pay for them in gold. And frankly, they do not look cool, but that is my opinion.
Maybe you can enlighten us on this? I am a total layman and not claiming any deeper knowledge.
What you're saying is pretty much spot on and you've certainly good knowledge :) I wrote a blog post about this topic here: www.vintagewatchservices.eu/single-post/the-problem-or-not-of-servicing-vintage-watches
The business model of the watch brands has changed fundamentally in the last 50 years, sadly very much to the worse for us watch lovers.
" Very high-beat” movements were used by Zenith and Movado chronographs... " El Primero" comes to mind !
@@VintageWatchServices Only today did I read your excellent post - sorry. It is so informative, critical and a pleasure to read that you really should make a TH-cam video about it, which would enlighten so many watch enthusiasts. I would not even consider myself as belonging into that latter group, but I just love objects that were built to last and that can be repaired. Thank you for promoting exactly these ideas on your superb channel.
It is true, my El Primero needs every 4 to 5 years an overhaul at the manufacturer in Le Locle. It always costs quiet a bit of money and ist takes 3 Monts of time. But after decades it still is loking very good and runs within a few seconds error per month. I wear it every day. Over night it is always in the same position. I am very happy to have a Chronomaster from the time they were COSC certificatet.
Hi! I’m wondering - before electronic beat counters, how did watch makers determine error rates and calibrate the watch? I’m sorry if you’ve addressed this elsewhere. Thanks!
They did it the way you probably imagine; by trial and error over a number of days...
Beautiful....and I can see why servicing is expensive..... pondering whether it is cheaper to replace my little Seiko than to get it cleaned when it needs it.....unless of course I acquire the skills to do it myself.... oh dear... can't see that happening... Its 4207 movement is so tiny! 😀
Thanks! And yes, servicing takes time and time is money, they say 😁 The 4207 is a nice little movement but indeed very small!
So , Resurrection time ! You are like JC , saying : " Longines , wake - up and wind " ! Amazing , isn ' t it ? Great moments , watching this video . Thanks !
Thanks for watching it!
love your videos +your great sense off humour
Thanks so much :)
Do you have a watch service video where you worked on a watch with a smooth second hand. Usually you see them pulse slightly like this watch does with every swing of the balance wheel.
For polishing and keeping the edges you need to Google Split Lap Polisher. I use one in Canada and the result is crisp and machine -like-made.
Thanks for the tip! I'm working on perfecting a lapping machine I've built and when I'm finished I'll use it for sharp edges 👍
Awesome vid. Thank you.
Thanks for watching it!
Great! Thank you for the definition of the imperial measurement 🙂! Did you ever had servicing contact to a humming watch like a bulova 2181? Please let me/us know. Bests from germany!
29:07 we have a reverse time keeper!
The Formula 1 era of watch making. These speed demon movements are truly special!
Great video. Could you have replaced the perspex lens for glass?
Thanks for watching! No, watches from this era mostly use plastic crystals and the cases are shaped accordingly. Putting in a crystal made from a different material would not only make the watch less original, it would also potentially damage the case.
I want one already!.
😁👍
GREAT VIDEO,,THANKS
You are welcome!
Im fascinated with the engineering on that scale. Also wonder about the lubricants, they must be truly something.
Do you use torque adjustable screwdrivers ?
Thanks, John! No, I use normal screwdrivers.
Still love your work Stian 😘
Thanks 😅
Do these high beat watches need maintenance (oiling) more frequent? Do you use the same oils/greases? And finally do the high beating parts wear quicker?? Great video
They probably don't really need lubricating more frequently, and the lubrication is the same. The parts also do not wear quicker due to the high beat, they wear quicker due to the stronger mainsprings and with it higher pressure on the pivots. More frequent service intervals would be driven by the need to check the pivots and bearings rather than the lubrication, in my view.
Been watching you videos for quite some time and a few others here on youtube. I really enjoy your approach to making these videos and have started to get into this as a hobby a bit with some old pocket watches. Could I be so bold as to ask how do you source parts etc for older watches. I have looked and seems there are some but was hoping a professonal such as yourself could guide me in a more pointed direction. Keep these videos coming. I really enjoyed seeing this masterpiece of engineering!
Hello David, great to hear you're getting into watchmaking! The main source is actually eBay, but there are also a lot of smaller dealers around the internet. Also, there are some good Facebook groups you could join.
Thank you for the reply and information
As a total newbie to watch repair, I probably haven’t read into this question yet. All things being equal (or not), what causes higher or lower BPH. The structure of all the parts appears to be like any other movement , so what causes 36,000 BPH as opposed to 18,000? Great video as always by the way!
The key component is the hairspring. It's basically a pendulum wound up in a spiral instead of hanging down and the accuracy of a watch depends on that pendulum having exactly the correct period. You'll see in videos how regulating works - a tiny "clamp" is moved along the spring making it effectively a bit longer and shorter. A hi-beat movement has a very different hairspring to a standard one as it has to swivel left-right twice as fast.
The pallet forks and escape wheel thus also move faster than standard escapements so the 4th wheel has a different gear ratio to standard. If I understand the designs correctly, the output of the 4th wheel is mostly the same for all movements - no matter how fast the escapement is, the hands all rotate at the same rate for all 3 handers (well, the 12 hour ones!)
@@alanmckinnon6791 correct
Alan wrote a great response to this :) Thanks Alan!
Yes! Also got a Zodiac with the writing on the barrel that it can't be opened. But I opened it and was able to close it again.
Yep, you can open them, but they can be tricky to close properly without damaging them so I prefer to only do so when I have a spare :)
Lovely watch... ^~^ A question if you please. Have you as of yet had the chance to work on a Patek Philippe??
Nope, not yet :) I'll get there at some point!
Looking to buy online one of these wonderful 36000bph Longines. Is there a surefire way to identify a 36000 over a 28800 version when viewing a photo of the movement?
Yes, there is. The 36000 versions were the 430 family movements, and the movement number for Longines' from this era were stamped on top of the train bridge.
My Longines keeps the best time of all the watches in my collecion (it's not an Ultra-Chron or vintage). I do have a question, though. I have seen on a couple of your episodes, instances where the main spring barrel cannot be opened. Why is this and what is the difference between those barrels/main springs and "ordinary" ones? Thanks for sharing, Stian.
Hello, excellent video. Can you help me? Do you know of any shops in or around Geneve that sell used machines or machine parts? Like wheel cutters, decoration machine, grillage and other?
Thanks for watching! I don't really know of any specific shops I'm afraid, but most of these would not be in Geneva, I think. Rather in the vallée de joux, in the smaller villages and towns.
@@VintageWatchServices Please can you tell me if you know of good shop in vallée de joux? I will take the train there on Monday.