Carnage - Supermang L67 3800 Build - Part-1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- It's time to put the Supermang engine back together but in true Carnage fashion the engine wants to fight us.
Subscribe to Street Machine for V8-powered good times - www.isubscribe...
Street Machine is Australia’s number-one modified car magazine, bringing V8-powered good times since 1981.
We live for tough street cars, and the guys and girls who use them. Our channel features event coverage from all over Australia, including burnouts, drag racing, dyno competitions, show ’n’ shines and high-quality technical videos.
So follow along as we bring the magazine to life, and remember to check back regularly for new videos.
Street Machine | www.whichcar.c...
Facebook | streetma...
Twitter | / streetmachine1
Instagram | / streetmachinemag
Google+ | plus.google.co...
Pinterest | / streetmachine1
Get the mag | goo.gl/CcukDF
Read on Newsstand iOS | goo.gl/QzSTgH
Read on Zinio | goo.gl/mbiqKr
Read on Magzter | goo.gl/AdF42f
Join the conversation: #streetmachinemag
Love this. Showing it's truly possibly, if you have the right tools, for anyone to do this in their shed.
Takes me back to 1992 when a friend and I rebuilt the engine in his Datsun 1600. However, not one measurement was taken, did it in the backyard whilst drinking beers, put a cam in it, headers, slapped on a weber carb on it, and just sent it. Indestructible bloody thing. Good times.
So many that’s what she said moments 😂😂😂
Don't abandon it what ever you do. I always see people building barras or motors of the same type, not often do you see a L36 or L67 build. Yeah it won't have as much gains blah blah, but it's not as common. So keep up the good work.
👍 Not common on TH-cam but common on the street. Mine's stock as a rock though 🤣
Probably a reason why they're not common..
The reason you don't spend the money on a V6 is because you'll make way more power with an LS for similar money.
Plus the V6 is indestructible when kept stock.
Tip
Get a bit of stiff wire and wrap it around the shank of the hone and extend a bit down until it touches the block with the hone at the bottom of the cylinder so it works as a stop guide.
I like it 👍
You can tell Scotty is waiting for Kian to say his got enough content so he can crack out the 3/4" rattle gun and finish the job
The first engine i "built" was an L67 Regal GS. Gen V supercharger, ZZP stage 2 IC kit, 1.9 rockers with LSX rockers, chromoly pushrods and a smaller pulley. Torque for days!
edit. Also had T.O.G.s headers with GSX SLP exhaust and tuned by Overkill motorsports. YOLO!
how did the transmission hold up
I work all day long in a work shop to come hole at watch videos of people working in workshops hahah nothing better then a good ole engine build haha can’t wait for the super mang to be up an running again. An remember Scotty no sending it haha
Thanks mate
Ahhhh I remember rebuilding my v6 back in the day. Snapped the cam one morning on the way to work. Chucked a stage 2 crow cam and chip and double row timing chain at it. 14.9 down the quarter mile. Good times 👍🏻👍🏻
If you hone it enough you might end up with a 7 litre ))
4.2 turbo Scott give the mang heads what we want . Can't wait to see this thing with the biggest turbo.... 2024 year of the supermang
Cool to see the old grocery getter donk torn down to bits and being given a birthday makeover. I remember being surprised the first time I pulled a head off one of those things and saw the bore size compared to the engine. They’re a nuggety little engines 💪. Ps love the Innuendo for the honing 👉👌LOL
The old Commy donk is coming along nicely Scotty. I’m at a similar stage at the moment with my 179 HP Turbo build. Just getting my crank girdle clearances sorted then I can do my final measurements. Keep up the great work mate 🚗 💨 😄👌
Man there are some haters in this ep. Love your work scotty. I'm sure it will be fine. Have heard bad stories about those stroker cranks though. Got a 5sp supermang of my own and and its definitely not as big a hitter as my g8 ssv ute but still so much fun to drive. Cant wait to see the heads go on 👍
I generally use Trans fluid to clean cylinder bores, it helps lift any and all dirt/debris before assembly
I watched the video and saw some of the clearance issues you encountered, those issues generally arise from using upgraded hardware. Upgrading fasteners is a good thing but usually comes with extra some work, due to higher claping force it tends to distort and have bores become out of round. You may need to line bore the mains and hone the rods to remove the distortion. Hope this helps, best of luck in which ever step you take, I'm eager to see your future videos on this build. 🍻 🍻
use wd40 to hone the bores and transmission fluid to clean the bores
Can’t wait to see this fully built!
Thats what she said..
Feels like it will never happen.
Wow Scotty just read all the comments. There are some experts out there. All I wanted to say was, you know you have made the big time, when youtube put 6 lots of adds in your carnage episode . Love your work. Look forward to the next carnage episode.
Thanks mate
A pain for Scotty but it's good to see a video where there's a problem with clearances. Most engine rebuild videos always seem to go without a hitch. We used plastigauge mostly in the 60's and early 70's on our everyday run of the mill customer cars and never had a problem. For anything a bit more exotic we broke out the dial gauges and micrometers.
Nice job Scotty just goes to show people how important it is to line bore the mains and resize the rods to gain the correct clearances
Internet Experts are a wonderfully helpful bunch🤣🤣
Yes they are!
Cheeky bugga loves a bit of “that’s what she said” 😂😂😭
Thank you for this video teaches me stuff by watching you do what you do Scotty 🚘
Thanks for giving the specs for the main studs, needed them to continue building mine :)
Don’t stop. Keep going and teach the v6 who’s boss
Maaaannngg maaaaaaaaaannnnngggg maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnggggggggg
Good job, little more tech than just slapping it together, I liked it
Can’t wait to watch with a beer after work.
Scotty you were spinning the drill 5 RPM too much, you’ve wrecked another block 🤪🤪.
Keep up the great content mate 😁👌🏼
Thanks 👍
Thanks Scott, I learnt a lot out of this one. Nice what you need to know, and what you don’t video!
I used to do some work experience at the Nissan dealership near me in 2007, and they had the one of the heads off a D40 4.8L V6 Navara it had the largest pistons I've seen in a car engine.
Bit ruff on that hoaning tool 😂😂
That’s what he said 🤣
Hey mate you need to lock the telescopic gauge up just off centre and then push it over centre to get a true size
This, also for one out that much, could go through and remeasure.
The motor could have been built on a Friday/Monday.
It was remeasured and remeasure with dial bore gauge and came up with the same answer
Never thought I’d say it but I’m more excited for this series than 13s for $1300!
😁😁😁
Some of us tonight "Honey can I give you a bit of a fhwipp fhwipp?" I seen Scotty do it!
Tip. After you clean the bores with degreaser or whatever use some ATF on a clean white rag and you'll get even more dirt off. Sounds strange but it works
Thanks for the tip.
Is it maxx performance dyno you can hear in the background?
Speaking of the 253. A mate of mine owned a genuine Red Group 3 VH SS with a high Comp 253 and 4Spd just recently sold it for 50k despite it needed some work to get it roadworthy.
I had a high comp in a Hj sedan. Good little engine.
@@victorbitter583 There is nothing wrong with the 253 at all!
why did he put a 253 in a genuine grp 3?
@@shredBucketheadshred That's how he brought it from the dealer. The 308 was an option on the group 3.
Nah mate. There were 4.2 SS's and 308 SS's but only 308 Group 3 SS's
I think you are very sensitive engine builder because you always remember what she said, I don't know if this comes from the Kamasutra of engine building manual , sounds very thoughtful thank you for sharing.
You have the bore gauge, meassure if the rods and mains are still round after you torqued the ARPs, thats what a bore gauge is good for.
You probably need to resize rods and mains with the ARPs in mind.
Got a video coming on that
Great stuff very informative..thanks Scotty
When the thumbnail is Scotty wearin glasses you know shits gonna get serious.
Nah, when Scotty starts swinging that shifter, _THAT'S_ when it gets serious. 😁👍
Yeah unfortunately the fine print is a little hard to read these days
@@STREETMACHINETV you and me both brother...
Learnt a bit there, thanx
I used to live just down the road from the "Buick City" factory in Flint, Michigan, USA where those 3.8l V6 engines were made. Makes me wonder if your Holden engines came from there too.
You need to put the 70's porno music in the back ground again. Hahaha
NO! NEVER AGAIN!!! 😂😂
That's the soundtrack for the Val wagon
Nice upgrade from the dunny brush ahahaah
Love the old fluffy thx for the info I'm learning a lot mate 👍
Most important aspect of engine building is doing your hone work.
:-D
Nice pun
Toyota Master Technician once told me, “Hone your cylinders with brake cleaner not oil.”
Worked out alright with me, but the car was running in 1 cylinder to start with. 🤣🤣
Awesome work scotty
Hey guys I noticed in the previous video you guys mentioned the price of the 3 prong bore mic set. Should look into a inside mic (tubular or rod type) much more affordable. Being a machinist myself I find them much more accurate than the telescopic gauges as if you pivot it incorrectly you can get a false reading
Sorry to see you’re having problems, but I’m glad you caught it early, I’ve had 5 of those motors and everyone had a rod knock eventually
Was really waiting for another "that's what she said" when you mentioned the lube was important. Missed opportunity
Line hone those bores bro. I dunno how u sleep at night with those numbers. Love the channel. Here for every vid.
Very expensive exercise
@@STREETMACHINETV oh man i know. it makes me sad. i feel like i know your position too. get some scotch out on ur bearings hahahaha.
Wish I could get Scottie to do mine, she's old and running ruff
Why didn't you use the dial bore gauge on the mains you will get a more accurate reading than the snap gauge provides
I actually used both but the snap gauge is easier to use and gives an accurate measurement
That’s the last streetmachine video I watch... 10 pairs of adds in 30 minutes
We don't place the ads, youtube does.
@@STREETMACHINETV yep, and they have made it very clear now - TH-cam’s right to monetize: TH-cam has the right to monetize all content on the platform and ads may appear on videos from channels not in the TH-cam Partner Program.
there are some 60-degree, all alloy GM V-6s of 3.6L size. You wouldn't want to go-over one of those? 60-degrees would allow more engine-compartment space, and some are North-south, so with an adapter, they'd bolt right up
We have those in later Commodores but they're a bit shit
Thats strange with the tight clearances. What specs are the old bearings? Maybe thats why there was bearing/crank damage? Or like you said, the ARP studs have altered things.
Maybe check your clearances without bearings, so you have a base figure to get the correct size bearing to suit 20-25thou clearance
Graet work Scotty!! Keep it up mate! Don't let the little set backs get you down, just keep chipping away at it. I know I'm 100% keen to see how it's going to go (as frustrating as it may be for you), I'm keeping all the fingers and toes crossed for a positive result!!
Much appreciated
Year of the supermang
Roll your snap gauge through mate. Keep one end stationary and roll the other end through, it will depress the gauge to the correct measurement. This should solve your inconsistencies.
I understand the struggles with the measurements. At some point you just have to say stuff it and use plasti gauge to measure, it's a lot harder to make mistakes with.
true, but measurements were checked and rechecked off camera with a bunch of different tools and they came up bad every time.
@@STREETMACHINETV I don't doubt that. Keep at it mate, you will sort it out eventually
I ain't a engine builder but maybe try tightening the ARP bolts and studs to holdens specs instead of ARP specs and see if that changes anything. I have heard by putting in main studs the block will require line honing to correct the clearances.
This is why i allways get both mains and rod journals ground . Holden did do some dodgy clearencing back in the day . Must have been a monday or friday engine .
this is interesting, an Ausie build L67? im from the united states. i have a bonneville SSEi L67
Hey scotty, not sure if u were using those internal telescoping gauges right (understand there's always more off camera happenning), but what you want to do with them is, you want to: put them inside the bore at an obvious angle, tighten them to an "intermediate" tension, then "rake" them a little bit over centre... ie. going slightly past "square" in both directions. That should bring them to the smallest point, which should be the actual ID. At that point, angle them again, remove from the bore and snug a bit more. then, do the same thing with them when you setup your mics... they should be able to woble free in the mics, because if you tighten the mic up and the gauge isn't perfectly straight, trig says your mesaurement will be under.
I know it's hard to see on the video but that's essentially what I did
@@STREETMACHINETV no probs, thought that may have been the case
line bore the block and get the rods done too needs to be done!
might as well do full rebuild
Scotty mate you forgot to torque down the arp studs fist, before tightening up the main caps nuts?
You don't torque the studs
Doing well man keep it up
"Thats what she said" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
This came on after the mopar Sunday video, and I’m wondering what’s happening with the stroker-mang
That's good question. I'll ring them and check.
hey mate, just wonderingh why you manually measuyred it up instead of using plastigauge
Because measuring is more precise
Looks like you're ready to celebrate already with all that lube you've wasted on that right hand, but that's just what he said 🤫 seriously though you legends, love the vids and have been saving them for my upcoming l67 rebuild...
Reading the micrometer, do you need to use a micrometer with the vernier bit to give last digit or can you use ones without that last digit.
The last digit helps keep things more accurate
@@STREETMACHINETV yeah I can imagine so too.
So basically “this episode Scotty gets pissed off with the piston”
How do you know you have the correct bearings before you've done your clearances?
Also, very cool that you're stroking the other engine. Pretty sure I got run out of town for mentioning the mace kit in an older vid :D
well, you answered my question by having to order in more bearings, haha
Because we'd already sent the crank off for machining, so generally you have a good idea of where it will end up. This one just caught us out.
Oh boi, time to watch that 4.2 crank snap at 500hp 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Can't tell him. If he did the research instead of trying to reinvent the wheel he would realise 4.2 crank is weak and gains are jack shit and why no one does it in a boosted application. Gains are going to be with SC rebuild/ porting and larger elbow/tb not that junk adaptor going into a restricted elbow. Should build 1 engine properly do SC and mods then go turbo.
@@vr350 I couldn't agree more. A lot has changed since scotty was in the V6 scene... A few of us have offered to help him for a half decent build but norhing has come from it.... so I guess just another person to give the V6 world a bad name.... single chain is the 1st example... we all told him don't do that with a cam and springs....
I guess he will learn one way or another... A+ for effort and giving itna crack tho
plasti gauge is what I use to measure bearing clearance. ;)
use some scotch bright to open up the clearances on the rod bearings
would love to see you just test the theory and try a torque to yield bolt and see if that changes the measurements
Video Monday
When the machine shop linish the crank, do they do it to a measurement or just until it cleans up?
once you get the stroke and speed right the depth doesn't matter so much......
Probably should have sent the block and rod with the crank in the first place so that they could of line bored the block and rods so that the correct bearings and clearances could have been achieved in the first go
That a full rebuild and an expensive process
Honest question, do you have to be careful not to scratch the bearings with the measurement tools? Will small scratches mess up the bearings?
The tools leave small marks in the bearing coating but not scratches. You just be careful
Scotty with the honing u need faster up an down movements to get the angle of the cross hatching right but it should be ok
Yeah, getting the speed right is hard
Yh it is but I love the build mate I’m so keen to see it go
I wanna see the blown 253 👍
Micrometers are so sensitive to feel, it might be worth getting the machine shop to do a couple of sample measurements for comparison.
How much was the work on the crank?
wow who would have thought that buying a completely thrashed Commo that ended up being parked under a tree and parted out because it was thrashed would end up being so much drama lol
This is not that engine...
Nothing from that car is in this video. Future videos yes.
Heya there lads ands and lad'ets im a few bucks in on haveing my unicorn l67 sorted over at J O H aka dandy engines in ipswich qld. Kinda come to a painful stand still tho as aparrently the ls valve job done to the ported heads has made it impossible to use anything but yella terra wakadoo adjustable shaft mount rockers.... im way deep in the pit if ya know what i mean (spool rods, acl barings, full stud kit, ARP pistons (top and skirts coated), tighe s/c cam, ls lifters, crow double chain kit, machined manifold and charger and 17 psi snout kit (rebuilt and coated) and all balanced ect ect ect will b running raceworks injectors and so forth so im not upset the shiny rockers will b 2k. (Fitted) but apparently yella terra dont even have the bar stock to make the parts!! Wont see the finished engine till next year! Any one have the slightest idea if this is reasonable 🤔 thanks.
Frank forde.
Wouldn’t running a line hone through the block fix the issue?
Measure ya bearings and buy bearings to suit king bearings are a very consistent brand with the pairing of bearings so they all measure the same thickness as others are a bit more hit n miss
Actually not a fan of King bearings
Wonders why nothing fix and No Carnage Ep ? Scotty to busy make Plus videos LOL
Love you for not prefect instagram or Move magic ! things go wrong they break you get dirty and fix them !!!!!
But why Taxi lucking in the back ground though it was off running 10's with some other TH-camr lol !!!!
Also waiting on a bunch of stuff that should have been by now.
Hope you double/triple check your clearances assometimes it's a simple misread through your guage etc....
Double and triple checked
😍
From the Holden factory service manual for the ecotec/L67
Bearing clearance 0.023 - 0.053 mm (for both the mains and conrods)
For a standard OEM engine sure, but a performance engine runs more clearance
@@STREETMACHINETV Then you should have left the worn bearings in the engine as you would have had all the "performance" clearance you talk about!
Talk to the machine shop that ground the crank and ask them what they recommend for clearances instead of just guessing. There is a good reason they ground it to 2.240x precisely as they have the book with all the knowledge.
@@BlownCommodores Except all the bearings were fucked, which is why we had to bring the crank in the first place, and I have been talking the machine shop and they agree with me. Why are you angry about this?
@@STREETMACHINETV Angry? Just making sure you don't look like a fool again like you did with the timing chain and because at this rate you will quickly blow up as many L67's as you have Barra's.
@@STREETMACHINETV don’t listen to it Scotty I wonder if blown v6 has a blownup v6 from running to tight in bearing clearance
Anyway good clearance is always 2-3 thou 2thou min 3thou max enjoy it when it’s done it’ll rev easy
Hey Scotty, when your timing chain (or belt) snaps and your valves and pistons connect, does it make a loud noise or is it hard to hear?
I wasn't driving but Kian says it went bang and stopped dead
@@STREETMACHINETV Thanks for the reply! I Love your content! It apparently happened to my friends car, so the mechanic says. I was in the passenger seat and it just stopped and didn't make a sound, I just thought that was just a little strange! I'm no mechanic though!
I reckon this engine will last about 2 runs down the quarter. :)
I guess we will see.
Clean the carbon off the block and caps before you install the bearings. That can upset your clearances.
Mate if 10 thou was taken off the mains, just think how tight she would be then? Maybe get smaller caps bearings, to be safe, just go the same size for the mains and also the journals as well, go at least 25 thousands or 1/4 of a mm extra downsized for all the bearing caps?
Nothing was taken off the mains. Nothing you said makes any sense
What did the block say to the ARP fastener? Hey big stud
First time I've seen on TH-cam someone measuring clearances and finding a problem. I always wondered what you'd do if this happens.
It's actually the first time it's happened to me. I checked and rechecked off camera several times. The clearances were just shit.