Cheap Tricks To Increase Horsepower - HorsePower S12, E9
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- It's something that everybody wants, and this time HorsePower explores a few of the best and easiest ways to improve performance without putting a big dent in your budget.
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PARTS USED IN THIS EPISODE:
Fitch: Drop in fuel catalysts.
Hypertech: Max Energy Power Programmer and Max Energy E-CON economy Power Programmer.
ITW Dymon: Dykem STEEL BLUE layout fluid, dye remover and cleaner, SCRUBS hand cleaner towels.
Matco Tools: Die grinder.
PX3 Lubricants: PX3 Xtreme oil booster.
Summit Racing: K&N Stubstack.
WD-40: Spray Lubricants.
Ring Gap is more important than forged pistons with nitrous. When the rings completely close the gap your pistons will grenade and it doesn't matter if they're cast or forged.
was going to post the same thing
Thanks for the info bro I didn’t know that
EXCELLENT point, that also applies to folks that plan on adding a turbo or a supercharger to an engine that was designed to be N/A...when in doubt check out that ring gap! Safe standards are a gap that is about .0065 per inch of bore diameter, which should keep 'em from kissing, and for the 'first-time DIYer's'... gap the compression rings only kids. Have FUN!
If your compression ratio is that high that it requires bypassing the rings or it explodes you might have other issues don’t u think
There was a time back in the late 90's that the LS engine was referred to as a just a "pushrod engine" and it actually was meant to be a little bit of an insult. The insinuation was that it was old tech and GM was behind the times.
cause everyone was too busy blowing ford for their new mod motors.. nobody had a clue what was in store with the ls engine.
Bill Chase They are great reliable engines, just not very efficient
@@trizkial7592 hahahahaha ok
Lol I thought the shop vac was meant to collect most of them shavings 😂
he block 4 of the runners should have blocked 7 of them
3:34 - "What's your reaction when you hear these kids call this stuff........ NOS?"
"Oh boy, man, gee golly wilikers, shucks, heavens to betsy, oh my stars, holy smokes, dagnabit, whippersnappers, jumpin' jahosafat, geez louise, jimminy cricket, dadgummit, frazzle dazzle..."
Most of those "kids" wouldn't know how to install the kit itself let alone understand the principals of combustion. I was 29 when I first ran Nitrous and I got hooked harder than sticky mickys on a 100 degree day.
It’s true though. That would be the same if I told ppl I had “Zex”.
Sharpie permanent marker works well in place of Dykem
And don't forget to port the heads to match the intake and exhaust manifolds. He only did a quarter of the work
@@robertsmith470 What's worse if the heads have a smaller opening then the gaskets he only made an obstruction and made flow worse.
Dykem smells better tho
You're correct my friend always used a permanent marker on his manifold port matching
Jam nut on throttle linkage is lose.
It almost always is if you pay attention
Loose
I'm pretty sure this is an old episode from a show that used to play on tv like 13 years ago lol
Agreed
Its not
I got my first nitrous kit when I was 19 . Traded a 67 Fairlane for it and a msd set up and other goodies .for 93 coupe mustang I'd just bought . Well needless to say .the old advice about dont let cousin Bubba tell you how to hook it up .is very very true lol.the reason he traded me .he had a 70s model f150 with a 390 . I said how did it do on it . He said man for about 3 secs it was the baddest S.O.B. you ever seen . Sprayed it and it took off like a rocket. Then 3 secs later parts of the motor flew up threw the hood . And puked the rest of the motor down and out in the road. I said man what happened. He said I didn't know any thing about hooking it up. So when I seen two connections . I just put a Y in the nitrous line .and connected spray to both jets ! Hahaha yikes musta been like a 5000 shot coming threw that bigger fuel jet. He Laffed and said Bubba strikes again .
You didn't give up the HP gain from the intake porting...
Yea, I noticed that...
The shop vac idea is great. You can also use shaving cream in the ports to capture metal and then flush it out, or use a rare earth magnet to capture what flies.
What you should never do, is smooth the intake ports. Unless its a dry intake or its the exhaust port, smoothing the intake port disrupts the boundary level air and results in fuel falling out of suspension with the air. When you port match the intake, try to make each wall you're grinding on as parallel to the corresponding wall of the intake port in the head. The more bends in the flow, the more disruption.
While that intake is off, install a V shaped oil splash shield in the lifter valley, to keep your intake from hitting 200 degrees while your engine's registering 160 on the gauge.
I thought the peaks and valleys in the boundary layer level is what disrupted airflow and such and that you should smooth it down. Do I need to worry about fuel falling out of suspension with port fuel injection ?
@@trizkial7592 I should have used a different term, but in airflow tests, a smooth intake port disrupts the rate of airflow, and heavier gas molecules can fall out of suspension in the air (ie, separate from the oxygen) and lead to poor burn rates inside the combustion chamber. This is mostly true for carburator engines, which don't always atomize as well as fuel injection. Tho if the injection is happening at a throttle body or far up the intake port, there's a chance there still may be separation at lower RPMs...every time the intake valve closes, the airflow has to go someplace. It tends to reverse and run back to the common plenum and run to another open valve someplace in the engine. naturally, air flow benches rate air flow in one direction.
If you're running individual throttle bodies, then there is no common plenum to worry about. If your injectors are cleaned (not from snake oil in a bottle, but actually removed and sonic cleaned) and balanced to flow equal amounts to each other, and you don't let them get dirty over time and lose their ability to atomize, then fuel separation in the port may never be an issue. If you have a port injection system that's spraying fuel right at the valve, there's no time/room for separation.
Otherwise, my personal opinion is if you're running pump gas, its quality may differ over time (transitioning to summer blends, etc) and a polished intake port that runs well on an air flow tester and after engine break in, may cause fuel separation a few years of use and wear 'n' tear later. Will there be a horsepower change you feel? Maybe or maybe not--it could be a gradual change and only noticed by keeping strict records of performance.
speed.academy/10-myths-of-cylinder-head-porting/
Albert Gaspar Okay that makes sense. For my application I have port I injection. I wasn’t talking about mirror polishing it but just going over it with about maybe 120 grit or so. I’m more focused on blending the short turn radius and such I’m not gonna remove hardly any material. My intake ports are pretty good for a stock engine really. The exhaust side is terrible though I’m not sure what to do there
Certain engine designs are known for exhaust ports that suck (pun intended). Fords from the 1960's had shock towers that intruded into the engine compartment, and then there was the Thermactor bump for emissions.
Generally speaking, the exhaust doesn't have to worry about fuel suspension, so there, you don't have to worry as much about port surface causing the exhaust to separate its noxious pollutants. The gas is hot, its expanding, it wants to move. Keeping it hot as it goes down the exhaust system helps it move (ie, ceramic coat the headers, or use a wrap, then use the right size piping, an X or H crossover, few bends, free flowing mufflers, etc that not just fail to restrict, but also direct the hot air in a smooth path). A camshaft that keeps the exhaust valve open longer than the intake (usually called a "split duration cam") can help. But what really helps is a good set of headers. They'll move the exhaust so fast, the next time the exhaust valve opens for the next 4 cycle function, there's a low pressure inside the primary tubes of the exhaust, which draws out what is inside the cylinder--helping a bad port that doesn't flow well. the lower the pressure inside an intake or exhaust port, the faster atmosphere flows in it to equalize pressure.
Do a search for "David Vizard header design". You'll see a lot of theory, he was perhaps the best. But you can judge for yourself, here's just two:
www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/exhaust/designing-an-exhaust-that-pumps-up-the-power/
www.superchevy.com/how-to/exhaust/0505phr-exh/
The interesting theory is, if you do a great job designing a header that scavenges the cylinder of exhaust, what you'll get is a "vacuum" on the cylinder by that exhaust system when the exhaust valve opens, and when the cam has its overlap period (when the intake and exhaust valves are open and overlap), the "vacuum" will draw more intake in, helping the intake port flow more air into the cylinder.
to take this to a further level (or more confusing :) ), you can play with angle cuts on the valves. You've probably heard of the "three angle valve job". Its done to the valve face and valve seat. Get the angles right, and the port flows better at low lift.
This helps because when the valve events overlap, its when they are at low lift. So, get the low lift flow spot on, and you get a better flow at cam overlap. Add in a great scavaging header design...and you almost have a boost-like effect going on in the head. instead of a turbo or supercharger pushing air in, the exhaust is "Sucking" it in and there's more air/fuel mix to burn when the intake valves close (tho there may be some in the header that backfires if the header is hot enough).
or so goes the theory :)
Albert Gaspar Oh okay awesome! I actually read David vizards porting book!!! I loved it. I wish he had more books that weren’t just on building small block chevys. Unfortunately I’n my application a 2003 Seville STS with the 4.6 northstar their is no aftermarket exhaust headers. So I’m limited to using the stock manifolds and making my own dual design into an x or h pipe. I was thinking about seeing if I can take the heads to get a 5 angle valve job or whatever they call it because the seats according to David are one of the most important if not THE most important factor in flow especially at lower lifts. I’m not looking to turn it into a race car but I just want to give it some more power while I’m rebuilding the engine haha. No aftermarket cams either lol
The “fakeness” of this show both brings me back and insults me at the same time.
But you got entertainment, like you do on movies
"And these plug wire separators won't break the budget at only $139." 😆
Look they have to do advertisements to keep it free, I hate it to, but trust me these guys cringe to
What's fake about it? I'm not saying you're wrong. I just don't know that much about engines
Yep
port matching ? done correctly, a dowel pin set into manifold AND head, then use gasket paper.
Unfortunately I know from Engine Masters that air filter with the filter element on top as well isn't actually a good idea.
I was very surprised
I actually had my best cheap improvement with a 4hole to squarebore adapter flipped upside down on an edelbrock performer intake and 650carb. I'm not shitting you... looking at the part vs how it's said to be installed.. go with what looks right...😏
Errrybodeh runnin salad bowls now.
Can you elaborate on that, I have not seen most of them, did it make less power?
@@dakotastimeout2827 Cold air intakes, aka a sealed box with a pipe in the grill makes more power compared to those style of air filters. The round ones without an air inlet pipe are sucking in the hot engine bay air killing power. Even the round style ones that have the inlet makes a little more power compared to the non inlet versions.
It's nice to see Amish Mike has overcome his fear of latex gloves. Apparently his last doctors visit involved latex gloves & was pretty traumatic
Dom looking at a buring Eclipse: NOS!!!!!!!!
You still owe me a 10 second car
The vacuum cleaner tool plate is great 👍 I will be making one
Bone stock ZO6 right ! Had headers, newer exhaust tips, aftermarket mufflers and high flow cats, who you trying to fool.
50% is 50%, no matter what the volume is.
Yeah that was odd.
You have big toys to play with in your nice garage
@2m20s: "...50% per cubic foot..." Coincidentally, it's also 50% per cubic meter, per cubic mile, per cubic parsec, ...
I place on the gasket and use a sharpie to color what material can be removed to gasket match , if I wanna then go bigger I mod the gasket some then again match up the ports..imo easiest way to go about it and keeps everything evenly ported.
Good helpfully tips for sure without having to buy and try ...
What horsepower gain did you get from the port and "polish"?
Cheapest power comes from a bottle...but might be a good idea to run forged pistons, crank, and hardened connecting rods 😆
I know right.funny
That z06 wasn't completely stock, long tubes and catless mid pipes say otherwise lol
I keep seeing this, but I think they were referring to the engine mechanicals & intake stuff. A lot of people don't consider headers & exhaust as straying from basic stock.
@@wymple09 yea people who don’t work on their cars or ever mod that consider exhaust a engine mod 😂
Air is 78% Nitrogen and 21% Oxygen whereas NO2 is 66.6% Nitrogen and 33.3% Oxygen.
Thank you. He seems to think that an explosive atmosphere is normal...
true about air I don't about nitrous. we test air for confined space and hot work. it's usually 21.5 ish.
That vette isnt bone stock you duds it clearly has headers in the under side shot lmfao
Match porting inlet manifolds and headers are always worthwhile...
Adding water to your oil sure helps add horsepower😁
Never hurts to go a little deeper
Thats what I tell my girlfriend all the time
Carbide burrs, if you don't know, wear safety glasses and a face shield, full sleeve thick shirt button all the way up and some good gloves!
still trying to dig out the same steel splinter from my finger from 9 months ago
Do NOT make the intake runners smooth. The intake runners MUST be rough at least somewhat rough. Think about it this way. Only vaporized fuel burns. A rough intake makes mountains and valleys for the fuel to vaporized in and air charge to #1 mix #2 it gives the charge to make a longer trip on it's way to the combustion chamber, kind of like a straight line across country is shorter than taking a curved hiway. You know why the new school intakes are rounded over the top, or the reason old racers had velocity stacks? The longer the road to the chamber the more HP. The exhaust ports should be polished like a mirror to get the used up burned charge out the exhaust with no resistance.
Great point- Certainly don't need that charge 'puddling' in the manifold when intake velocities are low!
@@btchhopperou812 fuel puddling in the intake???? WOW where'd that come from😂🤣😂🤣😂
@@Binderbird4X4Firebird pretty sure it was on a guys FZ600... back in the early 90's. He spent a LONG time porting, then polishing the intakes to an almost mirror finish LOL... Ran like shit until he'd get it revved up pretty good, ran ok high in the rpm range. I recall a few guys talking about it in the same building the shop where I worked at the time was. I also recall my boss at the time saying "you can't do that to a 4-stroke, maybe can get away with it on certain 2-strokes... I did make the comment somewhat in jest, although I do believe there is a degree of truth to the statement. LOL BTW, is or was at some point that Firebird a resident of Florida? I swear I've seen one around here a good while back...
nos is much cheaper if you buy everything separate, and dont need forged things unless going for more than 100 shot
Notice how he said racing application, in people would probably be going for more than a 100 shot
There are many other brands besides nos.
until you realize it costs like $100 to get one 10LB bottle refilled and it doesn't really last that long the price adds up pretty quickly. Turbo's and blowers have a higher upfront cost but end up being cheaper in the long term.
@@GnarshredProductions a $100 to get your bottle filled... Buddy you've been getting ripped off. They usually charge $50-70 to fill my 10lbs bottle.
@@GnarshredProductions lol I can tell u never ran nitrous it’s like 40$ at most to fill at 10lb bottle
I like Buddy.
Had an old man tell me that polishing the connecting rods while keeping them all the same finished weight helped create hp. Theory being that a smooth surface wouldn't carry the weight of the oil while rotating creating more power. Any truth?
Every change no matter how small adds up when hundreds of second can win or lose a race. My secret .5 second adder is SFR 100. Look it up
you want to polish down the length of the rod, and it will shed a little bit of oil, but there's coatings that do more. The question is where will it splash and was it designed to do that. Where the C'rod is picking up the most oil is at BDC, when it dips into the oil, and a windage tray can do the same thing for the entire reciprocating assembly. Also, if you remove sharp edges and burrs from the c'rods, you reduce locations for stress, and the C'rods get a ton of stress when they come to a complete stop at TDC and BDC.
“And this ZO6 is completely stock” meanwhile you can see the longtubes on the undercar shot lmao
439whp in that Z06 is about right with headers, unlike some youtube channel where their dynojet augments the numbers. Lol
Sorry advice on the gasket match/port work.
1. Don’t open up the intake manifold ports. You’re killing velocity.
2. Open the Head intake ports to match the existing intake ports, this reduces flow interruption.😉
That vet wasn’t bone stock. I seen longtubes when it was being backed onto the Dyno 😂
An old Mopar idea brought back by a fella with a youtube channel here, Uncle Tony's Garage, is to swap your pistons 180 degrees in the bore, or from bank to bank if you aren't removing them from their rods. The result is like having a longer connecting rod, the piston dwells longer at TDC.
th-cam.com/video/kjd1PD6pGLU/w-d-xo.html
BUT,,,, you shorten the life of the engine and cause "rattle"
@@Binderbird4X4Firebird if you watch the video, neither are true. of course, if you're doing a race engine, you're taking it apart often to check on things. and, what's the life of a piston really in a performance engine? The more power per cubic inch you get, the harder you're running the engine, so is 100,000 miles a good limit? 200,000? you may get bored with the hp and add on a blower or change to more displacement before you find the limit of the piston.
Soooo, a cheap power increase is NOX with beefed up rods and pistons?
And aluminum heads
Agreed!!
Where's you carb spacer plate to raise those carb butter flys above the tops of those runners . Its good for an extra 5 to 8 horses
If the rings aren't properly gapped you can kiss your engine goodbye with NOS. Thanks for the tip guys.
What if you’re going with 100 shot or less? Are gapped rings still a must ? Asking for a friend
@11:58 - Bone stock?? Negative - 11:51 Longtube headers for starters
I definitely miss Joe and Chuck from the old days.
I am loving the amount of boomer lore in these vids.
The instructions on my air gap intake specifically said....”don’t port “.
I paid for the heads whole intake runner, and I'm gonna use the whole intake runner.
12:08 turn on the cc and it will say music to the corvette sound on the dyno
lol.....awesome catch///
I was waiting for a vedio like this
Porting the intake to the gasket is not an good idea unless the head ports match the gasket. And you don't necessarily want to hog out the heads and intake to gasket size if you don't plan to touch the port further. =======
No mention of the port match making more power
How about put the regulator on the line like every other shop so you aren't adding a bunch of bulky heavy crud to your grinder 🤔
Thanks for the tip about the vacuum cleaner. I never knew you could use a vacuum cleaner like that before.🤪
You left out something very important $50 every time you fill the bottle
Yup. Always kills me when people say nitrous is cheap. It's only cheap if you don't use it. Start filling that bottle regularly and you might as well buy a blower. Also, a blower doesn't run out in the middle of a run. And a blower works for more than just drag racing. Can you imagine running a road course or autocross and having to constantly fiddle with the nitrous to turn it on and off as needed?
Definitely depends on the jet size, how long you run it, how many times you go to the track and so on. If on the streets, you’re an idiot. But if I use it 1-2 times at the track (2 NA runs and 2 nitrous runs if not busy), I can get 4-5 track visits on a bottle for me and I probably go 3-4 times a year. So $8000 SC drop and that’s me installing it and getting dyno tuned or $1200-1500 for a wet kit with blanket, blow off, remote bottle opener, purge kit, gauge, colder plugs and a dyno tune.
If you have the money and go to the track a lot or need a little extra punch on the highway, definitely FI. Don’t have that much and want the power gain at a flip of a switch at times...nitrous.
Most ppl I know kill a bottle trying to show off purging it. Be smart and it’ll last.
LOL...the pre LS days. So quaint. I bet they thought 300hp was a lot! Is that dyno running DOS?
What if the manifold intake runners are bigger than the intake ports?
A blue sharpie works just as good as the die chem
"As we can see on this Excel spreadsheet, our stock dyno number plus the Hypertech advertised gain equals..."
DAMN!!! SHOPPIN' for NITROUS! YUP YUP! 😊
Well... Aside from blowing up my 5.0 with an extra 5 horsepower and not voiding my warranty, I'd rather upgrade my throttle-body to a twin 62mm instead of the stock 55mm's... On top of that, I would upgrade the fuel injectors, rails and and ECU Performance upgrade. Even better, add a Cold-air Intake, long-tube headers with an X-pipe and upgraded cat-back exhaust. With that alone, my 2016 5.0 would gain at least 100 HP for about $2000 bucks and I won't destroy my engine. Beyond that, you need to upgrade the transmission, drive-shaft, U-Joints and Differential. Now, it is a $4,000 upgrade and that is still cheap compared to turbos or superchargers! If you are going to add more power/torque, you need to upgrade all the other essentials in order to handle the extra power or you are screwed and spending a lot more money later in repairs/upgrades. NOS? It has destroyed more engines, transmissions and differentials than I can even count. There is a reason that there are educated "Engineers" out there developing motor vehicles and even NASCAR, INDY, FORMULA 1, etc that know what to do. Even with that knowledge, they still blow up cars mechanically cuz they are pushing machines to their limit or beyond. I would rather keep my car drivable, with sufficient power, for many more years to come.
So how much power did the manifold make?
you me and a few others agree....
If the heads and intake are match ported, or as is often the case anymore the aftermarket heads were already gasket matched, you'll make more power, and how much by itself depends on the motor around it. What you are guaranteed to get, though, is a way nicer throttle response. When you're talking drag racing, that's not that important, as you'll pretty much just open the throttles once, and before you ever get moving. However, on the street or on a road course, tip in matters a whole lot more.
Buddy reminds me of the guy from IT when the head is in the fridge.
varies wildly by engine, but: Intake, exhaust, get a tune. done. fixed it for you.
then NO2, but to do anything over a 50 shot I'd gap the rings. If I was going that deep, just build the engine.
edit 3:00 : if your going forged piston, thats not cheap........ buy a K24 for $500 and throw 20 lbs at it. cheap and easy 400hp - 500hp
I’m rebuilding my 5.7 into a forged 6.4 stroker, I absolutely asked for ring gap to run boost!
@@bri-manhunter2654 I build my own engines personally. build an eJ255 from a 250hp motor to a 410hp wheel motor. 20LBS of boost. the car was a rocketship at 2500lbs
I've found little difference in smooth or rough intake runners. The biggest difference is the time it takes . Port matching is always a must.
Don't use pro poop or sleep master heads. DONT.
Everyone always talks about how much the kit cost but never say how much the nitrous costs.
Forged Pistons, Rods, and Crank, somehow make Nitrous a lot more costly
you might as well turbo or supercharge at that point
The good thing about junkyard LS engines, they're cheap and disposable, use to be that way with SBF's too but they're starting to dry up at the U-Pull-It's.
I need to know where the hell you guys got a nitrous oxide complete kit for 200 bucks
craigslist
This is also like 10 or 15 yrs old
Yeah he said they picked it up used.
Have you guys ever tried ZMax on a Dyno?
Normal O2 atmospheric percentage is 21.9 not 23%.
Hello guys!
I would like to know how increase power in a 3.6 GM engine V6 ?!
Thanks!!!
The LS was designed and first offered by Holden, GM Australia! Gotta love those Aussies! The onlyproblem I see with the engine is that as first designed the platform had massive potential for horsepower. You might have noticed I’m not a Chevy fan, but this engine has me thinking what if! I like those Volvo LS swaps. They’re perfect sleepers! Anyway, they started off with the Cathedral headed small displacement motors and it took years to get to a medium displacement and cylinder heads that use all the space left in them for larger ports. Back in 1929 Chevy Management decided that their marketing strategy would be to sell their customers a new model every three years. In the interim years they would offer small improvements to offer customers something better each year of that model run. By the third year they had finished adding all the bells and whistles they had designed for the car to begin with and the next year they would introduce something new, again. That became a little difficult to do and WWII put their entire staff to work building supplies for the war effort, but when the war was over the tried to pick up where they left off. Only now they kept a model longer than three years, still adding improvements along the way. With the LS it took nearly 20 years to tap into the potential of this new motor and there’s still room for improvement.
Is it better to full polishing all from carburator too the head gasket.
I like to polish aluminum manefaled
OUT. How about the head's.
He people i had a 69 SPORT SATELLITE, 440 3.90 THRU THE MUFFLERS, FULL STOCK WEIGHT, IT RAN 12.60 not sure of the mph, but a friend had a 68 440 CORONET 440 3.55 GEARS, HE SAID LETS SLIP HIS SET UP ON MY CAR THE TRANS COULD HANDLE 2-3 SHIFT Had to back off let it shift, IT RAN 11.24 AT 113 MPH, IF THE USED TRAND WAS GOOD IT MAY OF HIT 10s i hit it on the line it freaked leaving, that was 1.4 sec. Reduction in ET. MORE it the trans was good. That was in the 80s
I got a 307 motor in a 1979 Buick I got 350 heads on I got a big carburetor on there and 350 and 350 intake manifold what more could I do to get more power out of the motor?
Stroke it
350 heads are probably costing you power, less compression cuz of bigger chambers they say. Could be wrong but everyone seems to say 350 heads on a 305 is a bad idea, but 305 heads on a 350 boosts compression.
Not one mention of the HP gains from porting...
I found that annoying as well.
It's called port matching. You can't do that without doing the heads too.
Bone stock besides the full exhaust.
Porting an intake without port matching the heads will lower the power because airflow will hit the wall at the head interface and reverberate back slowing incoming air. Bad idea.
I like how they promoted scam chips aswell....
us here simpson drag racing were so old school if you need a baby bottle its something off
12:04 "the car is bone stock" with long tube headers and aftermarket exhaust!?!?
Oh. I thought this video was gonna tell me where I could go to buy a few cheap horses for my Buggy. Nevermind
Bone stock with long tube headers and no cats?
Why are you running straight leg boosters on this engine ?
Engines don't make ft.lbs. of torque. That is what you tighten something to. Engines make lb.ft. which is a work over time measurement.
Port heads intake and exhaust same as intake for free
Are those long tube headers stock?
No !
Mo powa Bahbee
please show ways to get more hp out of a 4.6 2valve pi engine please and ty
Boost... Plenty of 700rwhp 2v running in the streets...
Easy, trick flow heads, cams, and intake manifold with long tubes. Big gains from this setup, also save up for boost.
It takes a lot to make big power out of those 2v I use to have own I got like 320-350 hp and it took a decent bit
Never seen a “bone stock” c6z with long tubes and no cats
I think the perfect truck motor is the chevy 305 because it can make enough hp to get the job done & it reaches peak hp a lot faster than the 350 & for a work horse that is important, but I haven't seen anyone stroke a 305 out by putting an sbc 400 crank in the 305? why not? Do you know of any videos I can watch of a 305 motor with the 3.75 stroke crank so I can see how it compares with other stroker motors?
It seems more a promotional video. They never mentioned how much power, if any, the ported intake manifold made. They were more interested in advertise products.
My on the Turbo kit. The nos is not really able for me. More money 25% more for
One turbo kit. I go cheepest just me.
RIP Joe
It's Dykem layout fluid. Comes in blue & brown & you are pronouncing Dykem funny. Die-kum.
Ethanol and timing for power.
Boost helps, especially using ethanol!
This man says “die-kam”
It’s a “bone stock car” but the long tubes and full exhaust says that’s a lie !
Nitrous and forged pistons a Cheap trick ?? im screwed
if you port the intake manifold, you need to match that port on the heads